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#1 P.Abrera

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 09:25 AM

Not quite ready to make a big investment yet in a quality grinder but I have a cheapo benchgrinder i'd like to convert to a beltgrinder. I'm most interested in doing convex grinds and flat grinds. Any reason a quality trolley castor with good bearings and a skateboard wheel wouldn't work like the homebuilt set-up in the picture? (assuming I dont use the them as contact wheels for hollow grinding).

...what keeps the belt from wandering off the wheels?

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#2 Tim Crocker

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 09:29 AM

There is usually a tracking adjustment and tension adjustment associated with the small wheel. I believe Sheffields Supply in Florida has supplies to make your own.
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#3 GregBrannon

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 02:17 PM

People use all knids of of things to make grinders; including trolley and a skateboard wheels. Take a look at some different machines and materials here: http://groups.msn.co...hopmadeGrinders
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#4 P.Abrera

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 07:24 PM

People use all knids of of things to make grinders; including trolley and a skateboard wheels. Take a look at some different machines and materials here: http://groups.msn.co...hopmadeGrinders
Regards,
Greg

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Yup I've been browsing that group's page...didn't realize there where 4 or 5 pages of pictures of various rigs, I was just browsing page 1!

#5 dragoncutlery

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 09:07 PM

heres my first belt grinder contac wheels pressbord idler i lucked in to on ebay years back was using a wheel from sheffilds supply before that the wheel and its barings tilted as it was tightend and that was my traking for the longest time now i have springs to tenchon (similer to a bader) and a home made screw adjusted traking that realy works cotact wheels the same press board in this photo tho



http://dragoncutlery...rinderside.html


if you look real close in this photo you might see the traking


http://dragoncutlery.../beltfront.html
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#6 Hurl Vreeland

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 06:10 AM

Since I have access to a machine shop I considered making my own. After pricing the Aluminum stock, time, trying to find the right stuff you might be better off just getting a Grizzly or Kalamazoo.

Not to say it can't be done but you can get one for around $300.00 maybe less if you shop.

I went ahead and got a KMG.

#7 dragoncutlery

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 12:23 PM

i was looking at the grizzly last night and it dont look fast enough i mean yah it can grind out a knife my first time making a grinder wasnt much faster but an 8in wheel drivin at 1725 just aint that good for removing lots of metal if you make one your self make shure you dont drive the wheel direct with the moter use pullys and you can always change the speed later on as you get better/more confident

more of my .02
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#8 P.Abrera

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 06:02 PM

Not to say it can't be done but you can get one for around $300.00 maybe less if you shop.

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...haha, that's $250 more than i want to spend. Maybe I should just spend 50 bucks on a few new files and be done with it.

#9 P.Abrera

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 06:04 PM

...if you make one your self make shure you dont drive the wheel direct with the moter use pullys and you can always change the speed later on as you get better/more confident

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Whats the advantage of pulleys/ non-direct drive?

#10 dragoncutlery

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 11:03 PM

direct drive you are limited to the speed of the moter and the size of your drive wheel for speed where as with pullys you can change the speed when ever you feal like it and its a lot cheeper to have half a dosen pullys around for difrent speeds than the same amount of drive wheels i have 3 sets of pullys for my grinder one to go to the old speed (slowww 2200 fpm) one to what i was just resently (not to bad 4400fpm) and one set for what im grinding at now (5300fpm YaY!) witch i might go faster still once im shure im grinding at my best in this speed but drive wheels tend to be about $40 where as i can get pullys for at most $3-$10 if you direc drive like in the photos that were posted above you have to slow or speed up the motor to get a difrent speed (ie dc moter with controle max speed? 3425 rpm speed ?3600fpm?) grizzlys grinder states speeds off 3600fpm with a 8 inch contact wheel with a motor runing 1725 rpms the 10 inch wheel would change the speed but it doesnt say how fast on the site down side of pullys is youl need more barings to make it all work but there are cheep places to get them granger is good for pullys belts and berrings luckly for me i have an outlet in town every time i go in to change the speed or get a new belt i get to tell them that its for a machine that i bilt my self no it doesnt have a standard belt size just trust me and give me the 17inch drive :D
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#11 Hurl Vreeland

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Posted 14 October 2005 - 12:11 PM

The bottom line is you get what you pay for. I have a GE VFD drive for mine and it can crawl or hog away. That with a 2 hp motor. I didnt care so much about variable speed as I did having an 3 phase supply for my motor. The VFD does that.

If you search on the web there are tons of home built idea's. One I liked was a grinder made from a exercise bike. It appeared functional and easy build. The thing that is tough is the wheels for the belt. I've searched high and low for a cheap way to do it and I never really found a way to do it (skate wheels, conveyor wheels, etc.).

In all honesty if you are doing stock removal and stick with 3/16 thick and under steel, files will work very well. In fact you get get nice clean lines and excellent convex edges using files. As long as you have a way to profile the blade you are in great shape.

Edited by Hurl Vreeland, 14 October 2005 - 02:25 PM.





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