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  2. Also wouldn't the water boiling and vaporizing even if a small bit have the potential to blow hot oil all over you and your workspace ? Chris
  3. i love the simplicity of it! well done!
  4. The blade is now ready for the tempering oven and the hilt is ready for the carving chisels:
  5. Thank you guys. Matthew: you only need a moderate to light pressure to mark the leather. The pressure is only a little more than a firm hand with a pen. For the lines along the edges of the scabbard, I use a specially formed bone knife that marks lines at a set distance. For the long straight lines I use a straight edge while other lines are freehand.
  6. Curves in all the right places. Nice work.
  7. I have 9 remaining rounds of Don Hanson's W-2 that I will sell in one lot for $550.00 plus shipping and handling.
  8. Ha! I had a hard time reading the description because the bold twist starts kept distracting me back to the picture. I guess I am a dragon at heart That piece is just simply stunning. You and Petr have set the bar very high with this one.
  9. Truly exceptional. Well done you two and thank you for sharing.
  10. Today
  11. Hello: As some of you know my site got hacked and I am rebuilding it but for all intents and purposes it is dead even though I have a backup site running it isn't really a functional site.. So..I will be honest here I need lucre and I need it quick.. So I am posting several pieces for quick sale here.... Please take a look The first is a nice sgain in 1095/L6 and meteorite with a Royal Ebony Grip and phosphor bronze fittings..."Ladder" pattern. Priced at $425.00 on my site.... $275.00 here (I have a matching one that was made as a set for this guy...if you want me..Make ya a screamer of a deal) Second one is a Sgain with East Indian Rosewood grip....1095/L6/ meteorite and phosphor bronze fittings.. Usually priced at $425.00 $275.00 for this sale... Will post more pieces later today... THANK YOU for looking... JPH
  12. it is magical.
  13. Hello: Got some good news and some bad news...bad news is the site is toasted and the back up has to be loaded one section at a time so that will take a wile since I do not really know what I am doing...YET.. Good news is I have a "site" up (if you can call it that at my atar address. This doesn't really "work" as it is the backup but at least it shows that I am still around and not dead or worse... This has hit me really hard and I have got to get this back up and running as soon as I am dead in teh water with no $$$ coming in...yikes..Am posting several pieces on my for sale section reduced prices as well for a fast sale... I will figure this stuff out and get it sorted here PDQ..I may be a Luddite and kick and scream while I am being dragged into the "modern world" but sometimes yas has to adapt... JPH
  14. guards and pommels but keep it away from the blade edge since it is not a hardenable material
  15. FYRDRACASLAGA (Fire Dragon Slayer) By Owen Bush and Petr florianek. A Dwarf made hero’s sword for slaying fire dragons. In our discussions and musings, Petr and myself tend to think of our work as that of the Dark Elves (from the Nordic heritage) or Dwarves (from the world of JRR Tolkien) Working magic and craftsmanship together with the raw stuff of nature, these mythical artisans forge the weapons of legend for the gods and for mortal heros. The sword blade is made by myself and the handle, sheath and fittings are made by Petr Fliorianek (Gullinbursti) The sword blade is forged with eleven bars of steel, 3 fine twisted layers and 4 pin stripes along with two bold twisted star bars and high layer random pattern at the edge. The pattern plays with the juxtaposition between bold pattern and the finer flowing patterns of the edge. The stars patterns are set like jewels to catch a dragons eye…..come closer….come closer….. The blade has a shallow lenticular section. The guard and pommel are made in bronze (tin bronze) the style is dwarven. The pommel shows ancestor rage face and the guard has dragons to ward off evil. Runes of the pommel ferrule say ‘OWEN’ and ‘GULLI’, short for the Nordic Mythical Golden Boar Gullinbursti which is Petr’s avatar. Runes of the guard ferrule say ‘FYRDRACASLAGA’ (Fire dragon slayer) This is repeated on the strap on the scabbard. The scabbard is linden (lime wood). It is wool lined and covered in linen and then leather. There are bronze dragon heads and wrought iron fittings The rondell on the scabbard is Elk antler with a wyrm carving, there is a single garnet for its eye. The sword weighs 3lb 6oz and the point of balance is 14cm into the blade. Blade is 76.5 cm long and 6.5 cm wide at the hilt. Sword overall length is is 92cm. The sword feels powerful and purposeful. I am proud of this one Petr has (once again ) done a wonderfull job, using his mastery at bring this mythical blade to life. I hope you like it.
  16. As Jerrod says, it's basically a free-cutting version of 304, which is about the most common (and least-exciting) stainless steel out there. For machinability, it's streets ahead of 304 or 316, making it great for fittings. Back when I used to play with a little Myford ML7 lathe, it was pretty much the only stainless worth putting in the chuck. I'd keep some of it for stuff that needs machining and try to trade the rest.
  17. If you're ever in the Knoxville, TN area, stop by and see these folks: Wood Works Knoxville TN&ss=ypid.YN815x13866222&ppois=35.8966789245605_-83.7911605834961_Jeffries Wood Works_YN815x13866222~&cp=35.896679~-83.791161&v=2&sV=1 They have a lot of odd-size exotics; pen sized to whole boards.
  18. It's only 60W according to the nameplate, so is only rated for 1/50th the current of a 3 kW kettle or heater (under a quarter of an Amp vs 13 Amps for the kettle or heater). Current carrying capacity is largely a function of cross-sectional-area, so skinny wires are not going to be a problem. There's a lot of exposed electrical gubbins there. Make sure whatever you build is well Earthed (Grounded) and ensure it's run from an RCD-protected circuit (GFCI?). The RCD won't stop you getting a shock, but it will disconnect the power before it kills you. It's no substitute for common sense: if you drop or hurl a piece of hot steel whilst providing a path for 230VAC, the RCD won't put out the fire. Personally, I use RCD plugs (like the 44855 from Screwfix at under seven quid) on anything I cobble together to ensure that it WILL be RCD-protected.
  19. I wouldn't even use it for san mai, as it has a lot of sulfur (generally specs list >=0.15%, but I have seen 0.4%) which you wouldn't want to leach into the center material. Good for fittings though. The 303 is basically 304 with sulfur for improved machine-ability. Sulfur makes things more brittle, and since 304 is very gummy to machine, a little extra brittleness puts it more in line with machining mild steel (note, "more in line", not "just like"). Blade steel is already brittle enough, you don't want to increase brittleness at all.
  20. John Sorry, can't help you here since I'm not really an electrical guy. I have a 1 and 1/2 horsepower motor on my homebuilt KMG but I've never had a problem with it overheating no matter what I throw at it. Hope wiser people than I am can help out. K
  21. It is not a blade steel by any means since it will not harden. It can be used as the outer jacket in san mai blades, and for fittings, etc.
  22. I would assume the copper reflects well thru the water but how about the body? Does the nickel reflect well? I honestly have never thought to make my own lure. Oh the possibilities now!
  23. Does anyone have experience using 303 stainless steel in knife making... I have acquired close to 80 lbs of 303 stainless scrap and drop material Wondering if it's any good for knives Any information would be helpful Thanks
  24. Awesome job. I love the depth of the hamon line it really stands out. Your leather work is superb. Great piece!
  25. I get pretty jealous when I see the great big saw blades some people have, nice find!
  26. Now that is something I hadn't thought of...
  27. that's definitely a concern I have is that 1095 was a simple choice for the dimensions I could pick it up in, but all the info it received is that it's a challenge to heat treat. I might be looking at another pass on the watercutting table; I could reasonably do 1075 or 5160 blanks - then it'll just be getting the nerve to do it myself on this size of blade haha
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