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  1. Today
  2. Finished these up in the last few months and thought I would share. 1 - Camp knife with a "bollo-ish" kinde of profile - ground from AEB-L with 2 tone G10 2 - Clip Point hunter 5" blade of chainsaw/1084 powder, blackwood spacers and mule deer crown 3 - Loveless style hunter in feather damascus and elk antler handle. Thanks for looking, Clint
  3. I hadn't seen anything on this, but I thought there might be some interest, so here it is. Admin's, if this is uncool, just give it the axe. Second Annual Blacksmith Gathering at Reynlow Park near Reynoldsville, PA (DuBois/ Punxsutawney area) - Wednesday, May 19 thru Sunday, May 23, 2021. Sorry, all they seem to have for an internet presence is a FB page: https://www.facebook.com/events/1002231980250586/?acontext=%7B%22event_action_history%22%3A[%7B%22mechanism%22%3A%22search_results%22%2C%22surface%22%3A%22search%22%7D]%7D But that sh
  4. Yesterday
  5. You could also forge weld a bit of known steel into where the axe edge area will be...
  6. Very nice! I really like the shape and look of the handle .
  7. You were lucky. We had to make due with a rolled up newspaper ... Very nice. Much nicer than the two I made years ago for my son's martial arts teachers.
  8. If your judgement of the spark test is correct, and it hardens in water and brine, then it should work for what you want. The edge geometry will be important, that is, make it an axe rather than a machete. It will be experience, anyway! This is the joy of mystery steel.
  9. Hello! I have some unknown steel with a suitable diameter that I decided to use. I do not know the composition of steel, it is possible to have small amounts of chromium, manganese, silicon. I can't judge for sure, but looking at the sparks, the carbon content is around 0.55. Can I rely on the amount of carbon if I want the edge to handle wood? (A small ax and a large knife-machete function, but a different design). Mostly dry branches without abuse. Hardening in oil does not work well, but in water it is good (I will also try brine). I would bet on 54-55 HRC (if I succeed with a little experi
  10. Or you can just use a sharpie. Draw freehand straight onto the steel, or cut out your design and draw round it...
  11. That's one reason the real name requirement is not a security issue. If you're online, you are NOT anonymous. You just think you are.
  12. I would think the Tools, Supplies, and Materials sub-forum might be a better fit for this info, but that isn't overly critical. And sharing where to get good supplies on the cheap is always appreciated. Also, Kelly Couples sells it and a bunch of other stuff, though not quite as cheap as you got it (both would be $295, as they are $150 and $145 each, with free shipping). I had a couple sales guys from DuBois out the other day to talk about a new quench tank/system. Probably going to go with water, at least for the first tank, but future planning is always good. N
  13. Admins see your IP address on every post. It doesn't give exact location (although we can do that too), but it gives you an idea of a location. Unless you're on a VPN.
  14. I'm not sure if this is the right place for this, so feel free to move it. Recently, I was looking into buying some Parks 50 and AAA quench oil. The stuff is relatively expensive, so I did some digging and found the manufacturer, and realized that you can buy direct from them for roughly half of what most places charge. Most places charge $250-300 for 5 gallons of Parks 50 shipped, and I was able to get 5 gallons of Parks 50 and 5 gallons of AAA for ~$230 shipped (total, for both). The manufacturer is Dubois Chemicals. Their web store is store.duboischemica
  15. How do you know his location? I don't see it on his profile. Chris, if you are indeed based in the North East, I'd be happy to give you some advice. I started last fall and have learned some things to do/not do to buy/not buy. I also just completed a 2 week ABS Intro to Knifemaking course at the New England School of Metalwork. You don't have to do a 2 week course, but I can't recommend these guys highly enough. Fantastic school, fantastic teachers/ people. Feel free to reach out to me. Jesse
  16. And now back to working on the serving set. Filing in some lines to frame where I'm planning on some ring and dots and experimenting a bit with giving the brass an aged look
  17. In that case, you know exactly what a traditional tanto does not look like (Don't feel bad, they screwed me up too)
  18. You can also just cut out your design, and use some spray adhesive glue to stick the paper right to the steel. 3m makes some good strong spray, its sticky as hell and a pain to clean up sometimes. But after you've cut your blade profile, drop the blade in some acetone and the glue & paper come right off.
  19. This is a really good trick, and it's cheap and easy! On the other hand, it is a bit hit or miss, it smudges quite easily on transfer, and the result is fairly fragile, it'll come off easily. While engraving, it's hard to avoid touching or rubbing the rest of the transfer, and I was rarely able to engrave a whole design before it was gone. If like me you need to do this often, you might want to try this variation. It's a bit more involved, but it gives me much better results (especially since once it's dry, it's extremely resistant, you need acetone or sandpaper to get it off):
  20. Really Nice! As a kid I had to make do with a curved stick
  21. Thanks everyone! I admit it doesn´t have any real tanto shape, the construction method is though, although there are some extra alingment pins the silhouette was really important to me, I have spent a lot of time holding it up to the light. I was actually thinking of Don Fogg when I made this, his fusion pieces are really inspiring to me. The cross section was a real head scratcher, I found out quickly that I couldn´t do it on the grinder, so I eventually did the entire thing with files and edm stones, to get the ridgeline where I wanted it the bevels chang
  22. Blu tack (apparently it has no ‘e’) is a re-usable putty-like substance for sticking posters on walls, etc. Don’t know what it’s called where you are but it must be available from most places that sell stationery. Come to think of it, it would probably work quite well if used to transfer the design onto a dry Dykem surface. I learned the technique on an engraving course.
  23. Made some progress on @Dr Rays harpoon fighter today with all the work done pre heat treat now. I made a cutter to clean up the fuller from a piece of heavy spring steel and bent an old file to do the sanding.
  24. Stephen I appreciate the offer! You don't know how much. Folks on the forum are good people. I found out what happened to the mill that used be in a machine shop I used till it closed after Covid hit. Talked with the guy and turns out he needs a little repair work done on a bathroom at his house. You know one of those you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours deals! Works for me!!
  25. Nice work! Why do all the Japanese knife parts have names that sound like food?
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