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  2. So, ground to 120, tangs in good shape, choil is good shape. Spine is still to thick (urgg) it’s not far away but want to get it right. Makes me anxious about normalizing. Have ordered decarb paste (expensive but I believe it lasts a long time) if read mixed reviews about borax, dunno.
  3. Today
  4. Geofff..... it's a handmade headjoint (Miyazawa brand), so even though the body of it is plated, the response is great. You're right about the JB weld I replied that with more research, so that's a no go. Brian/Alan.... thanks for the link, that's the way I'm going to go. With the remaining solder, or the low temp stuff, I'm hoping to be able to do it by heating the solid silver lip with the torch, and cause minimum damage to the plating on the body, where it attaches. I'm confident I'll work out how to do it with lots of practice on the old ones. I'm in Japan, so the Tix solder is a bit expensive ($30), but available on Amazon here, so I'll buy some.
  5. Back for round two. Much more confident this time having learnt from the last go. Has taken about 4 hours to get it to this stage.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Thank you both for the ideas. I drew a handle shape on an outline of the knife. I will need to slim the tang for sure. Let me know what you think. This could change of course. The handle could probably be 1/2” an inch longer. The drawing measures 4-1/8” long. Thanks, Jon
  8. Hi Robert, they were taken out of circulation some years ago, they were too expensive to produce and somehow I collected a heap of them, now our smallest currency is a miserable copper plated steel 10 cents piece. I am quite happy to send you a few but I would not have enough to send you $5 worth.
  9. The only reason you would need to make another guard is if that one is too narrow (side to side) than what you want your handle to be. Otherwise, you can continue to use it for the guard. Sometimes a narrow flat sided handle is appropriate. I think what was meant by the suggestion to use that piece in another location, was to use it as a spacer between the guard and the handle material. The classic Bird's Head handle would fit that blade very well. Here is a hunter I made a long time ago and still use in the field. It shows the bird's head design, the spacer idea, and the flat sides.
  10. The low-temperature stuff is Tix https://www.amazon.com/Tix-Solder-Soldering-Jewelry-Metals/dp/B000HYQI46. It may work, it flows at 275 degrees F, which will not hurt the silver plating. From looking at that lip and riser, only the very edge of the riser is in contact with the head? So the rest is not touching? If so, Chris is correct that the JB-weld might dampen the vibrations a bit. I used to play saxophone, but have never done any major repairs on one. You have a good attitude, and a selection of junk heads to practice on, so I think you'll do okay. And it's not a solid silver head, so it's not too expensive to replace if need be.
  11. Superb, sir, absolutely superb. Doug
  12. Well, you've got the right attitude. You pay your money and take your chance There is a low temp solder that gets mentioned here on occasion. I'm too lazy to look it up, but Alan will probably know the name if he stops by here again. I think that is what I would try for a flute if I needed to add solder. However, what I would try first is chemically cleaning the existing solder, and just trying to re-flow what is already there.
  13. I'm not a flute guy, I play stringed instruments (guitars and such), but what is it about this particular flute that makes you want to repair it. A silver plated flute is not a top end instrument, is it? Could you source a new head for it? Or is there something special about this one that I'm not getting? Before trying JB weld, you might consider one of the super glues (CA glue, cyanoacrylate glue). JB weld will be very difficult to reverse if you don't like how it works, whereas a soak in acetone will take the CA off easily. Good luck Geoff
  14. A little Apocalyptic Bowie wrapped in brass with Giraffe tail decoration
  15. Thanks everyone for the advice, very useful. I've actually been able to get hold of 3 worthless old flute head joints to practice on, so that will be a huge help. Alan...JB Weld seems unbelievable, I've watch some YouTube vids, and it seems super strong. I've ordered some so I'll see how it pans out on the junk head joints. Chris.... couldn't agree more with everything you say there. I'l try a thin layer of the JB Weld, and see how strong it bonds. I'm hoping that with a thin layer, the vibration of the lip through the flute won't be affected any more than it being soldered, but I'll let you know. Brian.... whatever I end up doing I think my sphincter will be trembling a little, but I'll make sure I practice the procedure a few times beforehand! The solder will actually be quite far below where the lips sit, so I'm not so worried about contamination. I'll re-post once I've made a complete mess of it, and you can all say TOLD YOU SO.
  16. My art skills are getting worse
  17. Or like this small brass washer/preguard to cover the top of the next layer makes the next layer easyer to manufacture wile keeping a clean look if per chance you wanted to do a double guard but not re file work what you allreddy have
  18. Can be done like this brass spacer more brass or other metal to beef up the look
  19. That is one VERY beautiful blade.... But I have to ask, NZ has a 2 cent coin? Can you post a pic because I want to see this. hell ill send you money so you can ship me one, my kids would love a couple of them, as they are always " giving their two cents " on matters so if you send me like 5 bucks USD in them, I can hand them to them and they can hand them back when they want to pipe up.
  20. I've got to agree with the herd on this one. I've been soldering stuff like that for almost 40 years, and have done some instrument repair. Even at that, my sphincter would be a bit puckered while I tried to make the repair on your flute. I don't think this is the project you want to learn on. I'm also not sure I would use a 37% lead solder on a mouthpiece. I'm not one to get all panicky about lead, but that does seem like an odd choice.
  21. Couldn't have said it better myself!
  22. Finished the W2 Camphor burl fighter. I found that after 2000 grit sanding, liquid bar keepers friend brought out the hamon nicely after hand rubbing for 20 minutes then a quick buffing.
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