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  1. Today
  2. I've been hanging around here for almost two years, (I think), absorbing knowledge while working in my wood shop. All my "need to do projects" are now done, so I'm gonna take another stab at making some knives. I'm not ruling out forging blades, but with problems with both shoulders and arthritis in my right hand, forging may just be a dream. I started with a kiridashi for the shop and it took me three tries to come up with something acceptable. Next up will be a hunter skinner and then probably a kitchen knife. I'm just getting practice now, but if I get some good blades, I'll s
  3. Yesterday
  4. Bummed about being out last year myself. I like the shop tool idea. A tool, or small tool set would be cool. Like a set of wood or steel chisels, or a nice pair of tongs, hammer or something. Sounds cool. The knife by steel dimension is also a cool idea. If I may offer some ideas: 1) I've never done a folder. Something like a lock back would be cool. I like butterfly's too. 2) What if you take the 1x1" challenge and turn it into something like , everyone make a piece of 1x1 or 2x2 or whatever damascus, then send to the other guy to make a knife from for
  5. Well, since my 6 month project has taken a year, and I’m only half done, I figured I better start on the second half. Barring any strong objections, this is my current plan for the second blade. I want to follow a more organic shape and we will see how well elk antler engraves. Probably a nickel silver bolster and maybe spacer. I’ll try to do more of a WIP on this one...
  6. billyO-tig would work better, but I just have a cheap wire welder. One of the videos talked about problems with the welds because of the copper. So I would make sure the copper is slightly narrower than the steel not sticking out of the edges.
  7. what about a miniature knife? they can be pretty simple but get very tricky with a bit of detail. you could do a miniature set if one knife isnt enough, ive done a mini knife with a mini belt and sheath that could have been worn as a bracelet if the belt wasnt sized for a 12" G.I.JOE. and ive been wanting to do a kitchen knife with a cutting board in 1/4 scale. ive made a miniature multibar seax by forgewelding little tiny PW bars together, its hard to see what the patterns are because the twist bars got stretched but it works. its hard to get the proportions right on
  8. Thanks for the info, Dave. I might have to try that someday. My PID controlled forge should help with that.... Did you use a TIG welder for this?
  9. There is. Working alone with a light hammer, the anvil needs to be a bit higher. Not too high, that's even worse for you! I like the face to be about 3cm higher than knuckle height. That way the hammer strikes squarely with the elbow not quite fully extended.
  10. 1 cubic inch sounds pretty small. Maybe 2 cubic inches sounds good though.
  11. I do the 1 cubic inch thing as a demo. It's a lot of fun. Geoff
  12. That's the look I'm going for. Still working on hammer control. It probably doesn't help that my little post anvil has a tendency to skew itself at times. I've converted a 4lb hammer into a rounding hammer that I've mainly been using for this project. I'll check and see if I need to keep grinding down the edges. Pretty sure I've had some mis-hits too. The anvil face is at knuckle height, although that doesn't feel that optimal to me. I read somewhere someone mentioning that the recommendation comes from old, when using a striker was more common. I'm wondering if there is something
  13. I have entered a 1 cubic inch blade smith's challenge, after discussing it with a notable smith (MP) who posted it on the ABS forum. Make a blade from 1 cubic inch of steel. Design the knife to fit. The starting piece of steel can be any dimensions as long as the total volume is 1 cubic inch.
  14. I'm very new, having only really started at Christmas. Wonder what my present was? Today, I turned two scraps of my most recent failed project, a dagger made from an old broken file I "inherited" from my grandfather (along with a fair amount of other junk). I um... kinda dropped it right after heat treating. I took the two biggest pieces and welded them back together, and turned that into a straight razor. Now I'm waiting for the glue to set on the handle so I can finish it tomorrow.
  15. after 20 ish years im finally going to set up the grinder to run a speed control
  16. There’s a couple YouTube videos (they call it CuMai)that explain it well. Basically the top workable fusing temp of copper is right at the bottom temp for bonding nickel. Pretty straightforward but tricky to control the temp. I went to welding the seems closed like you would with stainless San Mai. That way you don’t have molten copper flying if you overshoot the heat. Yep- there is one spot where there is nickel on the edge. I’m keeping this one for me, so I’ll live with it till it annoys me to the point I regrind to fix it.
  17. Looks good. I'd like to learn how to add copper into my forge welding. Is that some nickel/copper on the edge towards the tip, though?
  18. Last week
  19. Latest one of the bench. 5” recurve skinner. Blade is Go Mai mild steel outside/W2 core/nickel & copper in between. Wrought iron guard with stabilized claro walnut. As I play with adding nickel and/or copper to the mix I’m coming to realize I like one or the other. If I mix both it just looks “off”. Thanks for looking.
  20. I don't know if you are going for the brut de forge look or not but I would say that you are striking the steel too hard and maybe not squarely with the face of you hammer. Check to see if the face of you hammer is smooth without any sharp line. Also check to see if you anvil is at the right height. The face should be at knuckle height. Doug
  21. Side entry is good. You are correct, top-entry burners make the flame impinge directly on the work, creating not only a hot spot, but potentially an oxidizing spot if your burner is not properly tuned. This leads to heavy scale and decarburization. I think a lot of commercial forges do this because the makers don't know or care about how gas forges are supposed to work, which is to heat the lining which then heats the steel. In a larger forge you can get an absolutely even heat by having a cylindrical chamber and letting the burner enter the chamber at a tangent to set up a swi
  22. I like the specific starting dimensions idea... Reminds me of the 150mm challenge that has run through the blacksmithing world. (Basically you start with a 150x20x20mm piece of metal and make whatever you can. #150mmchallenge on IG)
  23. What about have a specified starting dimensions? Everyone starts with the same size material and does the best they can in whatever style they choose.
  24. My though was that if the flame comes from the top it is directly impacting the work (creating a hot spot), while if it comes in from the side, and the work is on the bottom of the forge it wont be directly impacted by the flame. But, admittedly, I know nothing about doing this so I will learn and the burner location may change.
  25. I used thermal insulating fire brick rated up to 2600 degrees. Sorry if I wasn't clear - its not Home Depot fire brick.
  26. That is a really nice compact idea for a forge, and probably an overall good size! Hot spots, I think with your design of having that burner come in from the side, you will not notice it. I look for a hot spot at times, but I'm not as much a knife maker. I'm usually looking to make a swirly thing and sometimes everything hot is problematic. I would add to John N's suggestion of 20 bucks for a CO alarm, and say if you can get one with a digital read out even better. Typical CO alarms go off around 30ppm, but the digital ones can give you a read out of lower levels. Rea
  27. Thanks! That makes complete sense. I'll make sure to give the profile a bit of rework before heat treating.
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