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  1. Today
  2. Check out the critique my setup please post that's what I built and the guys responding to you helped me improve it quite a bit. I was able to heat up a rail road spikes and flatten them out for tongs. Which I'm still working on do to an anvil issue which I am in the work of remedy-ing.
  3. Could not could
  4. On that note I had a hand mixer from the 80's that I took apart and it had a switch that was wired to a different number of could within the motor and thats how they controlled the speed of it. Just food for thought.
  5. I have an old single phase motor that I showed a professor of mine while in college and I asked him if I would be able to control speed. He told me no because it's single phase you have to control it through the use of gears. He told me that if I wanted to change the speed of an AC motor I would need to buy one with a thyristor built in or get a 3 phase and wire it to a thyristor so that the speed could be controlled. It would be easier with a DC motor but that has its own set of issues
  6. This is just a proof of concept for a utility neck knife I'm thinking about. The micarta was made from confetti lol, trying to get a camo pattern. As such it's full of holes. But this little sheepsfoot blade feels good in the hand, and the extended point supports my entire index finger for some really wicked pressure and control. I may go forward with this and save the prototype for a leather working blade. Then again, I have to wonder how many people would actually want a sheepsfoot point on a neck knife.
  7. How did you do the weld to get a pattern like that? Did you use chain saw chain, or motorcycle chain or what? I think that is a very interesting pattern. Wayne
  8. Talk to Wayne Coe, he's the VFD guy. Often 3 ph motors are cheap, I bought a 15 hp one for $80. It runs my press. g
  9. It is a mixture of Fiebings saddle tan and black to make a brown color.
  10. Nice one Steve. That knife looks like it could be 100 years old......except for the fact that it looks a lot better than most knives that were made back then.
  11. Yeah, that is waaaaay cool looking.
  12. That is a beatifull knife! May I ask what kind of dye is on the sheath?
  13. Those are nice! Great job.
  14. 52100 core with 15N20 11 1/2 inches OAL with Ironwood handle
  15. Yesterday
  16. beautiful pattern in that steel, great job.
  17. EDC

    What if I add an extra layer of G10 spacer to the ricasso area to fill the gap? On second thought, tapering the handle would be problematic when drilling holes in the tang and scales. A 1/32" black spacer was planned but I could add more to that area.
  18. I just came across a much better detailed photo of the hunting knife of Charlemagne and sheath, showing the sheath fittings and hilt ferrule are gold or most likely gilded silver:
  19. My question mostly pertains to the placement of my tuyere into the refractory and the depth of the refractory itself. This is a charcoal (Weber) forge build. I'm going for the tuyere to run the length of the forge, which seems pretty standard and offers a better distribution of heat for "longer" blades if necessary (even if I will be burning through more fuel). What I'm mostly looking for advice on is the depth of the "V" in the refractory, as well as if the tuyere should be fully inset into the refractory or sitting on top of the bottom of the "V". Would it not be more efficient for the tuyere to be about 1/3 submerged into the refractory with holes/slots on both the top and sides of the tuyere for a more dispersed airflow? Most designs I've seen show the tuyere almost completely submerged with just a row of slits (usually 1/2" long and 1" apart) along the top. Thanks for checking this out and for the help, guys. Complete newb, but I wanna do this right. Hopefully I'm at least getting the concept and maybe half of my verbiage correct.
  20. That is too cool!
  21. I am doing my due diligence in attempting to save 3-500$ in purchasing the components needed to build a Disk grinder. (3 components i think)? Variable speed control, motor, disk. There are tons of places to purchase the variable speed control, but im not sure which one i need and where the best place to purchase it is. The motor i was thinking 1-2HP, but does it need to be single phase of 3 phase and 120/220? The source on the disks are on KMG website (preferably with the bevel face) anyway i do not have any experience messing with phase converting, but i know 3 phase equipment is cheaper, but will loss of RPMs/HP make a difference? Anyone know of a good supply for the motor/variable speed controller? thanks as usual!
  22. Thanks so much Gary! I suspected that's what you did, but was not sure.
  23. Hi Latest knife from the forge ....chain damascus with Hitachi edge steel. Black paper micarta, silver and cocobolo handle. Tooled leather sheath for safe keeping.
  24. Gary this is a beautiful knife, with so much technical detail that can be so easily over looked. Truely masterful work. It really is beautiful.
  25. The through pins (1/16") are peened over the separate domed heads.
  26. Gents as always thank you for your comments. Karim the butt cap was turned from a solid piece of 316 with a shank which was drilled and tapped for an M5 thread. I deliberated over whether or not to put a choil on the blade Alan and as you can see the choil won out this time, but looking at it I can see your point about flow and historically it may have been more accurate to have left it off. I also fell in love with that rifle, I have a couple of slots on my FAC for .45 and I'm sure that Kranks of Leeds do a Sharps in that calibre. I know it's not correct, but that maybe the best I can do here in the UK. Steve
  27. Oh right, I thought that one was earlier, but apparently late 8th century. This does show the suspension, so that makes it very interesting. Also that it's practically vertical, rather then horizontal. Some more images:
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