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  2. can not determine from this data. put the both in a block of metal ( drilled hole) then read read them. the difference should be the correction :).
  3. Ahhhh....horizontal plates, not mounted vertically like mine...Thanks.
  4. Thanks guys....will probably just split it the long way. One of the vids I watched some dude stuck like 5 or 6 blades in his plates. I was thinking if I did it the short way I could almost get a 14.5" blade in on a 45* angle.
  5. Today
  6. The last time I did four at once I did drop one, but it didn't affect the quench. This was with little pocketknife blades of AEB-L. Four little foil packets, each containing a blade and a spring, lined up in the oven rack with the long ends sticking out. When soak time was up, grabbed them all at once with tongs, pulled them out, set them on the bottom plate. Used the tongs to spread them out, one fell on the floor. grabbed it and had it back on the plate, top plate on, quench complete in under one minute. I wouldn't try it with more than two chef-type blades at once. The oven sits on a h
  7. It was meant to use thus the stabilized handle. But the buyer can do whatever he wants!
  8. Thanks, Fred. Understandable why it ended up as a wall hanger...
  9. Billy, this was made as a fighter/hunting knife that ended up hanging on the wall in a shadow box, because it was "too pretty to use!"
  10. A big part of the answer should be what is the biggest blade you plan on making? Thicker plates will take more pressure while resisting bending, so that's how I'd go (my plates are 1 1/2" x 4" x16" bars. Not sure how the thickness will affect cooling rate, either of the knife or the plates themselves, but I'd guess that thicker plates will cool the blade stock quicker, but retain the heat in the plates longer too. I'd love to see a video of how you plate quench multiple blades at one time. I can't imagine the gymnastics required or the set-up to do this both quickly and witho
  11. Looks like a blotchy etch to me, no biggie. As for the plate, most people use aluminum for the higher heat transfer rate (I got a pair of 6x11x1 off eBay for ~$60), but for the kind of volume we do steel is totally fine. I leave half an inch between blades, and I wouldn't worry about the tang sticking out. It'll harden anyway with air-hardening steels, might warp, though.
  12. Hello all. I've got what should be a "simple" algebra problem, but my aged muscles are too atrophied I guess. I bought a new TC to check the drift on my year-plus old TC. They were positioned one on top of the other in my forge. With the old one on the top, it read ~60F degrees higher than the new one and with the old one on the bottom, it read ~120F lower than the new one. So, how far off is my old TC? Thanks.
  13. Yes! That is a good consideration. I will take it into account in the future when forgind Damascus! Thanks!
  14. Pretty dang happy how this turned out, I'll be changing my forging of the next on to start above ACM to get a more wattered pattern but for my first time I'd say it's pretty good.
  15. Kinda life I miss living, love your totems!
  16. Soooo I went to the metal supermarket looking for something I can turn into a quench plate(s) I picked up a 1" thick piece of 6160 thats 11.5"x 18" My dilemma is which way to split it. If I go the 18 way it will be less than 6" wide. I dont think I can do more than 2 or 3 blades at once. How much space should be between blades when doing more than 1. The oven is 14.5 deep so if I split it the other was a portion of the handle will stick out....is that an issue?? While I was there I snagged a piece of 1095. I had some parks until it evaporated .lol...soooo I went
  17. That's a nice looking package all around. Both the lines and the materials flow together quite nicely. I'm having a hard time placing the function of the blade shape, though.. What kind of knife is this? A fighter? Kicthen? EDC?
  18. And just to add for posterity: This should be taken into consideration when selecting alloys to forge weld together. Do not combine an air hardening steel and a water hardening steel, for example. There are of course exceptions (like possibly an oil hardening steel as the core of san mai, with a water hardening alloy around it). Just make sure it is considered before mixing alloys, that is my point.
  19. It's definitely beautiful but looks like I might have some graphite, a bit of a bummer to say the least. Did the roast this weekend, I'll start forging this today 385 grams, old files and a bit of ball bearings to top the charge off, hard to guess exact carbon % since the files. Surface Dendrites are considerably larger than my last puck.
  20. Hello: Nice knife..great to see someone else doing fullers and yelmans on a blade.. as far as long feathers.. you haven't even started to get tortured until you get above 18" and anything over 22" or so is just agony to draw out.. Still..nice clean lines..very very nice... I use an old HF axe that I rolled the edge down a wee bit for the smaller/shorter stuff..on the longer pieces..well I am saving that for book IV..a man has to keep a few things to himself until the time is right.. You should of heard the vast amounts of very creative profanity that is st
  21. When I moved my little hammer I rented both a trailer and truck from U-haul. Worked quite well for me.
  22. Yes it will. At least it’s supposed to haha. I haven’t started the build yet. Still gathering info. But WayneCoe’s website has been very helpful along with the information from Geoff Keyes which is stickied in the Tools and Toolmaking section. The choice now is whether to go ribbon burner or not. It will depend on the size of the shell that i can get.
  23. Well, it has been a few years since I've been on the forum, but here is my latest. The blade is a bad ladder pattern, mokume gane bolsters, mosaic pins with stabilized ambonia burl handle. Thoughts?
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