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  2. I would imagine! Do you have an idea what it came from originally?
  3. I prefer 256K. Feels warmer that way...
  4. Today
  5. It's all in what you're used to, and Fahrenheit is much more precise... I am fluent in all metric/SI measurements except temperature. They didn't start me young enough, I guess.
  6. I'd try the oil not quite as hot, say 70 degrees. It gets faster as it gets hotter.
  7. That's an oldie! Unfortunately, based on the plate I suspect it is 440v only.
  8. That's a good question. If I had to guess I would say red cedar. But, it's core was hollow, and its heavy spalt lines disguise it pretty well. It seems sound enough I wouldnt hesitate to shave the remnants of the core off and stabilize it. Its soaking wet though. Would take some time to dry. Probably around 2' long I threw the other half in the fire.
  9. Looking great here! I just wanted to add my experience with making curved blades. It's better to start straight. It makes grinding much easier. Then pre-bend prior to quench, either that or go the risky route in a water quench. Best of luck!
  10. Cool! Wasn't George Washington's sword something similar? Looks great!
  11. I have 2 of those, from a Caterpillar, you're giving me ideas!
  12. Pretty cool looking project. Never seen one before. Thanks for sharing with us.
  13. Clean forging. I wish I could somehow speed click a button and squire those skills. In the mean time I'll struggle away. Lol. Thanks for sharing.
  14. Very nice work. It's not my style but I can appreciate the hard work and effort. The attention to detail on that sheath with the feather and other items is great. Thanks for sharing.
  15. I have got lots of the bearing left, but postage would be killer ! - By just using a small 4" chord of the bearing it keeps the frictional area down (reducing the heat build up)
  16. Been a busy week. Got some hides, 2 full Nguni hides and 2 smaller antelope. Started with the antelope and processed into raw hide. Forged out some bearings And then made a frontier sheath
  17. You could, I just liked how simple this was. I wanted to keep the tool compact for the anvil face and incorporating the post made it an efficient design. And it works good/quick to adjust.
  18. looking for info on a ordep nepal kukri knife it has a 2 87 stamped on it does anyone know what this number means
  19. Thanks Garry, Ive just cut out a 4mm MDF template and it feels good in the hand. Though I am probably going to shallow the radius on the spine by just a little bit. When held in the reverse grip, aka, slicing the cheeks off of an apple it curls in towards my big hand just a little too much.
  20. It would also make a nice steak/table knife
  21. This is the best picture I have of the data plate. Apparently it's only 2hp, I could have swore it was 3. I'll dig it out this weekend and open up the electrical box and take a look inside. Unfortunately at the moment its tucked in the back corner of the barn behind my boat and a bunch of other stuff that was put away for the winter.
  22. Thanks Alex, I only use Australian hard woods, and if possible only Western Australian, as that's where I live. Desert Snakewood and W.A. Jam. Blue gum. Red Gum. Black Butt. Have some really nice figured black butt in some cactus juice right now.
  23. That will be a handy little blade. I love Jarrah too. The pieces I've acquired all look pretty plain until you see them close up. Theres tons of swirls and eddies in the grain that you dont see in other types of wood.
  24. I might have to try and find something like that! Though I imagine it might be difficult.
  25. Nice looking design. Nice size for an apple knife......or salami knife.....or cheese knife....or EDC knife.
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