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  2. Close! Wool, castable, and then if you think you need it, the zircon stuff. I'm glad John chimed in, he's in the greater Manchester area and knows his industrial stuff.
  3. That's a right purty lil' stabber...................
  4. I somehow missed that. It's a completely sick piece!
  5. Thanks! Hmm so wool first, then coat with refractory (similar to others mentioned above? Hey Alan, thanks again for your detailed reply. I just want to make sure I get it right So would it be... 1 - Ceramic fibre/wool 2 - Then something like this to coat the wool https://shop.vitcas.com/products/heat-resistant-materials/refractory-coatings.html 3 - THEN this as the final coat https://shop.vitcas.com/refractory-castable-grade-1700.html Did I get that the right way around?
  6. Yesterday
  7. Beautiful work Alex, well done!
  8. Thanks! I might try this on my next "art" knife. I already did . According to him, he'll be back this fall. You can't back up now @Zeb Camper
  9. Damn nice! When you send it back, tell Zeb to get back in the shop and start posting again!
  10. Slightly less crappy cell phone pics. Hopefully I'll have better ones to follow next week.
  11. When I last did my forges I bought 1600c rated refractory cement from ebay, and cast the floor, and walls with that. It was 1/2 the price a few years ago though! - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264332519138?hash=item3d8b7226e2:g:KhkAAOSwqF5bl-Da It mixes up like lumpy concrete, but is bomb proof once you have gone to the effort! edit to add, I use a couple of inches of insulating wool, with the refractory cast inside that. The refractory cement takes much longer to heat up than wool, but holds the heat when you put the workpiece in, and is flux resistant!
  12. The Camper/Mercier collab knife is completed . It'll be heading back to Zeb next week for the sheath.
  13. That's probably a thing i should try. I need to hand finish the fuller as well before I harden this beastie g
  14. That thing is sleek! Turned out Great!
  15. I made this one in a classroom using animal hide glue. Other people have used simple white wood glue. I have used wood glue on other projects to hold leather together. It works well, but it can resist dye.
  16. Ain't that the truth! I almost always end up draw filing to fix the ridge.
  17. Thank you all for reactions! Joshua, thank you for tips, it looks pretty nice, the joint is almost invisible! Can I ask you what type of glue did you use? I will certainly use it.
  18. Thank you! I thought about adding the "USMC" but decided against it. (Since I have never engraved before, didn't want to risk.) I didn't even think about spacers! Thank you again! My fullers definitely need work, I've been watching videos on how to put them in.
  19. Nice work! You fit right in with the tradition of the forum. I really like the pattern welding and the leather carving. It looks like you sewed the leather together around the handle of the broken back Seax. On the next one you might want to try skiving (making thin) the leather edge and gluing it over the other part. This can look like no seam exists. This handle is made the same as yours is, but with no sewing. The other two sides If you look closely, you can see where the leather laps over.
  20. Do you have a piece of scrap 8/9 oz. leather? See if it will cut. If it has already been through HT, it should. If not, it should just grap and barely cut.
  21. They might have upped the max since the last time I used Venmo. Good to know, thank you.
  22. I went ahead and ground the primary bevels and cleaned things up. I marked out where I think the gut hook bevels should go. I'm starting to think that I cut the hook a little deep, but I guess I'll have to make due.
  23. Pretty sure Venmo's max is $4999. I've sent that much to our son but that was a "transfer" and not a transaction I guess.
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