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  1. Today
  2. Ah, maybe its not 40 feet http://www.austinexplorer.com/Locations/ShowLocation.aspx?LocationID=1952
  3. It could be a kiln, theres one here at a place called reed park, I have some hard fire bricks that might have come from there. Its huge, I used to climb it with my dad, it was 40+ feet tall.
  4. Absolutely gorgeous!
  5. Thanks man! Really happy with how thin this one is. 0.2mm at the heel and 0.1 at the tip Thanks very much.
  6. Munch, crunch, slurp, .... burp !!...............sceuwse me......................
  7. Oh I’m gonna have to file in a small Choil as well, or the first 16th of an inch off the ricasso won’t be sharpened.
  8. Dont bend up your tang too bad! That's a short blade, you might have trouble trying to shwack it. Btw, now would be a great time to clean up the upper ridge of that pitting. Unless you like the look. Keep at it man! Looking good so far!
  9. Why didn’t I think of that... I will go do that now, and then during the normalizing, I’m gonna use my shwacker and put a slight bow in the blade, this one is gonna be one heck of a slicer, I want to do one of them empty soda can cut tests. I’ve got some rope in My garage too.
  10. Yesterday
  11. Just finished this up. Made it at the start of the year but never got around to polishing the blade, and today a visitor saw it and wanted to buy it, so I said I'd get it finished for tomorrow. 3" blade with a wrought spine and silver steel edge, etched first in ferric then in coffee. Antler bolster with copper trim. Carved Yew Burr handle. let me know what you think...
  12. Yeah I don’t know idea anything can be done without making the edge thinner, so I’ll have to deal with it.
  13. There really isn't much difference - they're both wide, flat tangs that taper in two planes, but I suppose it's more Anglo Saxon , in that it's centred on the blade and tapers to a narrower end...
  14. Looks like a furnace to me.
  15. Did you do a japanese or viking style tang? I couldnt tell the handle was carved at first, thats really nice.
  16. North Carolinian's do take their BBQ seriously
  17. Seen this on the way to a waterfall any ideas what it was used for had a walk up on the top and a brick lined cylinder shape running from top to bottom
  18. Hello, I forged this 7 3/4 inch long blade from a San mai billet I made with 200 layer 1084/15N20 sandwiching a piece of 80CRV2. It is 1/4 thick at the ricasso, flat ground with a convex edge. Makers mark etched on the blade spine. The guard and spacer are mild steel and gun blued. Handle is ironwood with a stainless pin. Sheath is 8oz leather with a beavertail hide overlay and hand stitched by yours truly. Price is $350 shipped. I am in Alberta, Canada. Please PM me and can send additional photos. Thanks, Clint
  19. Liking the practical designs and clean execution, nicely done! Clint
  20. Gentlemen you have my thanks! I plan on trying to stretch the width a little by tapering my edge when reforging. I did use the cross peen, but not much result. so did I do fairly well as this is my first blade, I have done some art metal, never built a knife from scratch. Thanks again! G George
  21. It's starting to look like a blade. I think that I'll do the rest of the grinding on it tomorrow in my public shop. I'm doing a little more stock removal than normal on this one in hopes that it will enhance the pattern by grinding through more layers. We'll see.
  22. That blue G10 spacer really pops. I like it!
  23. Thanks Josh! Glad you enjoyed it.
  24. Thanks guys. Finally finished this today...
  25. It will be more use at home Mike as I have much smaller knives for hunting needs. This will be used mainly for when the meat is boned out and needs to be diced either for stews or to go into ground meat.
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