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  2. Thanks.. I did only use 2 bars.. I've been experimenting with wrought iron manipulation to get a desired pattern..
  3. Ooh, nice! Love the details.
  4. Today
  5. Here is my 2 cents for what little its worth. As you said you do things different than most. Maybe instead of a short format YouTube video channel (I don't mean shorts) instead maybe you could produce longer format "movies". I for one dislike most blacksmithing YouTube because they skip over most of the process or details. Bladesmith videos tend to be even worse as there are fewer and you will need to filter out the stock removal videos. I watch the videos to learn how different people do things and see if their process is better or I can use it to modify my own. I'm not going to hate on them as in the beginning they're great when traveling to see a smith is hard to do, but once you get above the entry or intermediate level your options disappear. I would gladly pay for a long video of how you make a Yanagiba or a Oakeshott XII if you need a higher return than longer videos give. The reality is most YouTube show the same techniques over and over and if you want to see something other than that your options drop to almost zero. If you did videos of your whole process and minimize the cut content that would be a huge bonus over the others.
  6. Just finishing this one up. 7 1/2" blade of differentially hardened 1095, mild steel guard with copper trim, burr elm handle shaft, mild steel and bog oak pommel with brass pins. Butt stitched leather scabbard with copper fittings: let me know what you think...
  7. Something that I also do on kitchen knives, leaving just a little forge mark here and there. They will dissapear once the patina develops on the blade.
  8. Hello: Boy ya'all have given me a lot to consider and frankly..it is sort of intimidating when one realizes that I have absolutely zero experience in any of this..However I haven't made up my mind yet and I am delving into this as far as cameras, sound equipment and SLTT..There are so many options that I have seen so far that it is mind blowing. If I am going to do this it is not going to be for the lucre...I wouldn't even know how to go ab out that..rather, the pressure I am getting from folks I know is considerable yet not a single one knows how to go about it either...figures..It was made clear to me that as great a book is in preserving information seeing it done when coupled WITH a book makes things much clearer, and after thinking about it, I tend to agree.. My biggest concern is that there are so many..and I mean 1,000's of folks doing this already..Is there really any need for one more? I just want to get the information out of my head and all.. I do not know what ya all mean about "my name".. I am most certainly nobody special and not at all well known anywhere.. I just do what I do and if folks like what I make they are most certainly welcome to purchase it.. When I started doing this 50 plus years ago.. the "custom knife industry" really didn't exist..sure there were a few folks making them but not many and even fewer forging anything.. and not many would even talk to a 11 or 12 year old "kid" who was asking all sorts of questions..But I kept at it and bugged the hell out of my neighbor Herr Haufmann who was a blacksmith and that fine old man showed me a LOT.. So I plugged along the best that I could..read everything I can across that was about forging knives and swords and well..here I am 5 decades later still doing it.. Just another old Hammerhead doing things... So I guess I do have a lot of things to sift through to decide whether or not i want to join the faceless masses already doing this...Like I said earlier..there are so very many already doing so many different things is there any reason why anyone would even want to watch and olde school hammer head like me doing anything? That is the question.. So I am going to give this a good thinking over while I am still on restrictions.. JPH
  9. It did finish out beautifully. I may be delusional, but I only see two bars of wrought in the initial weld form, but I see three in the finished hawk. Is that just an illusion?
  10. Yeah, love the pattern welding, the maker's mark, and the scabbard! Nice work!
  11. Than Better explanation, but same principle. Let the weight of the hammer determine the force of the blow, instead of relying on your muscle control to be exactly the same each swing. Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge.
  12. I do, because wrought is so much softer than 1095, even at welding heat.
  13. Looks cool, nice first blade!
  14. Today was a good day! I have officially forged my first blade. Not only was it my first blade, I also challenged myself to try and make it out of an old band saw blade that I had gotten from my workplace (it was thrown away, didn't want it to go to waste). I cut, cleaned, stacked, and forge welded small pieces of the blade into a billet. I was pretty impressed as to how well it worked out, I don't have any flux at this moment, so I made sure to get the metal as clean as possible and keep the temperature as constant as possible. I'm sure there are probably some micro delaminations, but I have yet to see any. Now I do realize the grinding is sub par, but I'm still waiting for by belt sander to be delivered. I feel I did okay considering the fact that I was using a flap disc on my angle grinder. Id love to hear what you all think, and would gladly take any advice or criticism you may have. No matter what though, I feel like I've turned a big corner today in my blacksmithing adventure, and am definitely hooked! It's such an amazing feeling taking trash and turning it into a usable tool!
  15. We have been going through all our stuff and culling it a bit..... There are a few books to give away and I thought someone here might want this one. It's a small book (5 inches by 7 inches by 1/2 inch thick) THIS IS TAKEN Some pics inside Even some clothing history The ISBN tag
  16. as long as the hammer is raised to the same height everytime the blow on the file blank will be the same.. That is an interesting method you developed with the students.. Use a heavier hammer with top tools..
  17. Alan, that is really neat.. Love the looks of the axe blade.. In 48yrs forging metal and using rasps the tommy shown is the first that retained the teeth.. It's only in the last 3 or 4 years that I use wrought iron more for axes and such. Do you think the wrought iron is prone to retain the tooth profile vs mild steels?
  18. Yesterday
  19. I collect every one I find, and Gerald is right. Only about half are wrought, the rest are mild steel. Bessemer steel became cheap enough to compete with wrought for wagon tires by around 1890. If your wagon is newer than that, or was re-tired later than that, there's a chance it's steel. If it's rusty, the grain will show if it's wrought. If it's gas welded rather than forge welded, it's usually steel. If it's arc welded rather than forge welded and the weld is clean, not pitted around the edges, it's steel. In my part of the world, animal-drawn wooden farm wagons were common well into the 1950s, and only got fully replaced by tractor-drawn steel-frame wagons in the 1960s. They may have had the tires replaced right up to the end. Most of the farms around where I grew up in the 1970s had at least one old wagon quietly rotting under a shed by the barn or the corncrib. In fact, the standard corncrib was built with the crib itself to one side and an open shed to the other under a shared low-pitch gable roof, designed specifically to keep the wagon out of the rain. Tie rods and brake rods may be wrought or steel as well. King pins, quadrants (if it had a set), and hub bands the same. Seat springs may be shear steel or modern(ish) steel. Always check, the shear steel springs make great knives that show cool patterning when etched and will take hamon if that's your thing. The cut-and-bend test Geoff mentioned is pretty foolproof, or if you don't want to do that you can polish a spot an put a drop of muriatic acid on it. After a day or two the grain will show when you brush off the rust, if it's iron. If it's steel it'll be uniformly pitted.
  20. But they might only look old. A relative had a wagon they let go to waste and now nothing but a pile of scrap, I hoped to score a bunch of WI, but sadly, just steel. I know it was at least 60 years old, but that still wasn't old enough.
  21. Typically they will be. But you can take a piece, cut it part way through and bend it over, It should appear like strands and fibers. A spark test will show dull red/orange sparks with no branching. g
  22. I have several old rims . How can i tell if this is wrought iron?
  23. Technically yes, but several found examples I've seen have single piece hilts. There are early british daggers which have hilts of multiple components, including hilt plates and a pommel (latter bone, ivory etc) which held the back of the hilt together. But also once they move to rapier type swords, hilts become simple one piece and such separate pommels (which are usually preserved when wood isn't) disappear. Though of the swords with such washers used, I don't know any example with a preserved organic hilt. The Nebra swords are an interesting example though, as they have one side bronze, and the other organic and multi part pommels. So they did have a separate front and back hilt plate. So the possibility of multipart hilts exists. It could even have been done in different organic materials, like one side wood, the other horn.
  24. Lovely! People who have never used a hammer that shape have a hard time understanding how they work. I know I did before I was given a 3 1/2 pound saw doctor's hammer. It's a whole different way of swinging, much less tiring than a balanced hammer once you realize it's self-guiding. That short, angled handle is the key.
  25. That's always the best part of using wrought and files. I did one a few years ago that shows this really well. Not to hijack your thread, but That was wagon tire. I like your iron better!
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