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  1. Today
  2. Week 2 of doing remote support work from the "sitting room" of my bachelor flat, more sitting than usual, aggravating, frustrating, so when I disconnect that vpn and slam shut that notebook, the dog gets a walk around the block and the knives stay untouched... Managed to make 4 Mohair wool bolsters this weekend, figured out on average 18m of wool does the job so the second lot went quicker. Doubled up the wool, still, getting 9m of doubled up wool into the resin and wound up onto the tang in between the clamps is not for the faint-hearted....much acetone was used afterwards...even on my face
  3. Very sorry to see this John, you make awesome knives and I hope and trust you will be back at it sooner rather than later.
  4. Hi Charles, It's a combination of rosewood and teakwood. Rosewood for endcap and front bolsters and teakwood in between.
  5. Another one I got finished today was this Wapiti Hunter Butcher. 5 inch blade of 1095 with micarta CB bolster and dressed with some nicely marked oak scales for a flared butt handle.
  6. Something different with a first try at forging from an off cut of 1095 where this Became this. The SS is a bear to get right but looks good with the red G10 spacers. Now have this to a stage I am going to call it done. Not perfect but for a first forging I am quite pleased with it. The stabilised willow has some very nice markings and colours. As well as my 3 dot mark in the reminder of the forging I have stamped a number 1 on the blade as a memento of its place in my development
  7. Thank you! A trick of the light. Same on both sides. My fault for not catching the reflection in editing! Ohh leatherwork... I hate doing it.
  8. I've been a fan of Dan's since I first started thinking about making knives, Joel. I believe you are the first person I've heard of who built one of his grinders. How long have you had it? Happy so far? Care to review it for me?
  9. That just sucks.. Hope there is a chance of salvaging and repairing some of it.
  10. Really like it...........but have a question. How is the pin on the butt end of the knife brass on one side and black on the other? Looks like your hand would love that handle. What are the dimensions of that knife? Nice leather work. That's something I have to force myself to get into. Someone on the forum was kind enough to send me some leather working tools to "prompt" me off my arse to get started. Just haven't ventured there yet.
  11. Tonight I finished cleaning up the shape and forging the bevels. After that I quickly ground the edge all even and smooth. Then I did the hard part of bending the tang into a handle. It went quite well. after than I shut off the forge and let the blade cool down slowly. EDIT: here are some better pictures it’s a little bit small for my hands, by I think I did pretty dang good.
  12. Yes,and please let me know if i can help any with translation(Russian is the only language i have other than English,but i'm a fluent speaker). P.S. Another characteristic he points out is that Evenki make their knives somewhat thicker than other people around,that too pertains to taking joints apart.
  13. Aiden,he starts out by saying that among all those knives on the table only one is Evenki-the one he picks up. Then he says that for the Right-handed person the fuller is on the Right(just like the other video above). He himself is a Lefty,but before he figured it out he just got used to using Right-handed knife... Another reason they're on the narrow side is for taking game meat apart at the joint.It is taboo for Evenki to use an axe on meat,and all joints get taken apart using a knife. That much longer knife at about 7:40 is for fleshing hides. Later he talks for the necessity of a knife to have the point drop somewhat.That is for doing the tails on fur-bearers,and for gutting.
  14. Looking closely at the video again, I can see what you mean. I think he is left handed, he says something about it in the video below around 1:20, though through the translation I'm not sure if the knife is meant for a right or left handed person. I'll also look around for more sources on these knives, like all of this stuff, definitive information seems hard to find. A quick google image search turns up mostly knives with grooves on the right with a few exceptions, though most of them are modern replicas which are often unreliable. Looks like it's time for more research.
  15. Dreary weather, indeed, Gary. Turned sunny here late in the afternoon. It' headed your way.............I hope. That's a beautiful Pommel.
  16. Howdy again folks. Following along the same knife pattern as my most recent post, I've gone to my comfort zone and tried to create something clean, sleek, and classy. I think I did alright! Hope yall enjoy!
  17. Check out the video on the grinders page then look at the DVDs page for getting the DVD at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you.
  18. Aiden,no...just the opposite...His knife in this video is concave/fullered on the Right side (as you look down at the spine of the knife/knife pointing away from you). But-Aboimov himself may be a lefty...In the video about making skis he sure uses his axe easily and handily with his left...either that or he's enviably ambidextrous. You're right in that to "drill" with,for a Right-handed guy,would be easier with fuller on the Left(and going clock-wise). So maybe he's a Lefty(i'll try to find out),or it's a matter of adaptation,getting used to that awkward outward motion with your wrist. He does say that getting used to this knife is half or more of the battle,that it took him quite a bit of time to acquire the necessary automatism... He also states that the knife in this video is quite old and worn(i too noticed that it's quite narrow closer to handle). You also bring up a tricky point here-Hardness...I don't quite know what to say...Cautiously i want to think that their knives in general were on the much softer side if you consider how hard everything is nowadays. There's even anecdotal evidence that Sakha at times would bend a knife just for a specific task at hand(like scraping a bowl of a given radius).This has not been substantuated to my knowledge. So the jury is still out on this. And it also brings us to the question of Bi-metallism...Were their knives laminated?Was that long delicate tip mostly soft iron,with a thin steeling on convex side? Is that a part of the design,sharpening on the flat/fullered side,just like hollow-ground wood chisel,or some of Japanese cutlery? (there Is a faction that tries to draw parallels between Sakha shapes and those of Japanese tools...for the most part they seem to be russians set on proving that native people did not,could not have any technologies of their own but must by definition have borrowed them elsewhere.Bad science,that,and most unpleasant bigotry). From the ancient Sakha epic poem,"Olonho",we know that they clearly differentiated between the low-/medium-/and high-carbon content in their steel.The larger knife-like hunter's spear,baty'yah,was often a composite.They definitely practiced steeling edges on things. Evenki,who live to the North of Sakha,have metalworking traditions of their own.Were those based or derived from those of Sakha i do not know...To the East of all these people(but not unimaginably far)were the Mohe(or Churchen)culture.Sometimes referred to as proto-Koreans,the peak of their culture was around 9th-10th c.c. AD,during which time their metalworking was insanely developed and complex. So the derivation question in Eastern Siberia(including parts of China,Korea,and Japan south of it) is hugely complex.
  19. I like it. I also like how you included a by knife and pick. Doug
  20. As an ex-pipe smoker I like the look of good briar burl too. Out of curiosity, did the original have a bit of a harpoon point there the top edge was forged? It seems like it would be easier to do so than not. Doug
  21. Yesterday
  22. I've still got this straight edge knife in my head so I guess I need to make one and move on. I'm using the bandsaw metal so it's pretty thin to start off. I'm going to make it with a single bevel. Even though it's thin, I'm going to grind a urasuki. Spent most of the day making what I need. I cut a 36" radius, a 24" radius and a 12" radius to grind the urasuki and found the 12" works best. Just glue some Emory cloth to it and go to work. I've got about .010" grind in it now. Just need to sand it a little, finish the handle and heat treat it. I'll post updates as I go.
  23. Now that's a knife. Good work. Doug
  24. Great for a chuckle, which we all need. Doug
  25. It's been so rainy & gloomy recently that it's been hard to get motivated but I did manage to get a stainless pommel made today:
  26. I might have to add another knife to my schedule! If I understand the video/your description of the uses correctly, these knives are slightly concave on the left side, and slightly convex on the right side? I got turned off of that shape when I was making my first Sakha knives (though the other "handed" version), as the exaggerated convexity on the forge-scale bearing modern versions just doesn't cut very well (at least in my experience with the few knives I made that way). Having the bevel on the right seems to help with boring (at least for a righthander), since you can tilt the knife a bit and twist clockwise to cut chips instead of painfully scraping out dust and possibly chipping the edge. I'll check out a more of his videos too, I watched a bit of the stuff recommended from the sheath videos. I really like these multi-purpose knives and the depth involved in learning all the different ways to use them.
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