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  2. I was having a lot of issues earlier this year and got some great advise on this forum. Check out Grinding woes in Beginners place. Best thing I learned was slow down and keep it cool.
  3. Thanks for the input guys. All taken on board.
  4. Really awesome hammer. The pattern looks great.
  5. Practice with wood. Get a 1/4" piece. Grind your profile and then your bevels and tang etc. As far as what it takes to grind well here are a few steps. Profile scribe center lines on your edges grind a 45 degree bevel to the center line leaving about the thickness of a dime Grind the highest point of that 45 degree angle off to make it into a shallower angle that begins to meet the flat of the blade stock. Then grind the high spot of that angle until you get to your ridge line or close to the spine. Do not grind all the way to the spine. Get a file guide for sharp shoulders and plunges. Good belts seal the deal. The cheaper the belt the worse the tracking and the quicker they burn up. It has taken me a long time to learn this lesson but now I only use Cubitrons for primary blade grinding then I use Trizac gators.
  6. Thanks Sam, I make production runs of bladesmith tongs based on Sams method. I have been making some wolf jaws and they are challenging. I will offer a few suggestions from my limited experience. Start with round stock. Its easier to move into final dimension and doesn't have the sharp corners that drag into your offsets. The advantage to learning how to forge a set of tongs properly is that it gives a new smith certain repeatable skills. For instance how to forge a set of one side shoulders in 3 different directions. How to draw stock into a reign and how to punch and rivet. For efficiency I drill but if you learn how to punch it allows for a certain look and material dimension that is nice. This is Brian Brazeal doing a demo on clay. Learn how to do this and you have made your skills better and they will translate to all of your blade making endeavors.
  7. Today
  8. Sam, I don't think that's what Jerrod meant at all, and he has in fact been very free with his knowledge. I suppose I should un-pin this thread since it is no longer serving a good purpose.
  9. I'm wondering if I can make something similar out of old disc plow discs.
  10. Yes the twist tongs have a weak point, however the the intent of the twist tongs is to give a novice smith a starting point in making his own tools. A good example of that is in the United Nations blacksmithing books by Joseph Stokes. In them, he shows several methods, starting with the twist and progressing to better quality tongs as the smith's skills improve. But until the smith has those skills, he has a pair of tongs to work/learn with. Having said that, I have a pair for holding 3/8 round that have survived 13 years and the forging of over 10,000 hooks.
  11. The solid stainless machined burner flare on my welding forge has pretty well eroded to nothing due to how hot it gets ! The burner stays cold at the gas injection end though, I assume that is because of all the cold propane, and air that is whistling down it.
  12. It's not worth the effort, as I feel the prevailing attitude of most newbs to the forum has been quite entitled, a common theme hitting many. No one has yet to convince me otherwise in the end of this thread. I no longer sell tongs to others then close friends, and am ramping back up to begin making hammers again, the break in production being based on a landlord change in my shop barring hot work for almost two years now. I have no problem sharing info, but it is my info. I passed all the info I have on making tongs to JJ Simon whom I find most worth the investment of my time and effort, free of charge as well. You however, based on your posts, are not worth much of any idea sharing as you seem to do whatever you were going to do no matter how much you ask others opinions. So please, check your facts before assuming I'm a profit focused hoarder of information.
  13. I use welding metal from box store hardware. I used the left over steel for other projects. I still every now and then grind a new knife shape that I have not used to practice it.
  14. Best way in my opinion is just make you a couple stock removal knives, start to finish, murder a belt or two... Just go nuts, can't really go wrong when doin stuff in the name of practice and experimentation!
  15. Nice one, the love for hammers
  16. Hi all, with the completion of my new belt grinder (see thread in tools sub) I picked up my Tanto blade WIP and went to town on it. To be honest this scared the shot out of me. This grinder is a brute. Shredded the leaf spring like it was butter. Anyway, as such, I push a little here and a little there and we'll I've made it worse than it was before. I've watched the YouTube and some others use one, and I know time will = experience. However in the mean time does anyone have any suggestions on an economical way to gain this time in front of the grinder? Or, is it just a matter of make blades/blade shapes and get to it? Sorry if anyone reading this seems it stupid. I'm going to go through the process of thermal cycling and HT this blade followed by destruction for proof of grain size etc. Thoughts on this? Thanks in advance.
  17. Thanks James. :-)
  18. The adjustable rest I built for my grinder is what comes in handy for doing this sort of thing when you need all four sides the same angle. I'll likely set the shoulders of the handle plunges with chainsaw files and then go to that. I'll get to that in a few weeks. Thanks for following.
  19. Look to see if there is a blacksmith or bladesmith near you. Be nice to them, and tell tem you are trying to build a forge for kniv and maybe swords and tools on the cheap. As them to help you source nd build. Then, do what they suggest (often, there will be a scrap pile handy with many of the things you need). But it ffrom them, and thank them for their valuable time. Maybe help them do whatever they are up to around the shop This will provide a chance to learn some stuff, too. You will learn more by a day with a smith than months reading. If you are ever in CT, I will help you out. kc
  20. Thanks for all of the work on the videos. My son and I like them a lot. You are doing some cool experiments/work. The outcome is seriously-impressive, too.
  21. yeah, I can imagine how the push dagger added an additional issue. Go look closely at the pommel alignment on the drawings of original swords in the pinned post from Peter re: 2 new swords. At least 2 of the pommels are off just a little, but it looks like a lot because of the nature of a double-edged sword and our perceptions. I would enjoy making a dogbone handle, sort of in the same line as a coffin-hilt but maybe just a little harder. I would do most of the work with files and maybe a rasp here and there. This is a great thread. Fun to watch. Thanks for it!
  22. Indeed, assisted by my little 15kg Anyang. Hand punched and drifted the eye as I don't trust the power hammer with getting it straight. The eye is 1" long by approx 3/4" wide.
  23. Great job Eric, How long is the clean up on an axe like that and how are you going about getting the finish. In my experience that axe is two wholly diferent jobs, Making a forged axe and then making it look that good. were you ever tempted to leave the forge finish on it? Great work.
  24. Wesley, thank you for the link and i plan on building a better one as soon as i can. I used the legs and the ring that holds the tree bolts, are screwed inro the bottom. The tuyere tube is stainless and not sure if it will hold up but I disnt want to use galvanized which was the only other option i had when building. All forge portions except stand are steel. Grinding out the spike in the bottom proved to be a pain in the A. I plan to zip tie a hairdryer down at the bottom to keep melting of plastic from happening. Would also like to know thoughts on a cold wrap around external tuyere? Just to keep heat from pushing back down through.
  25. Thank you for the reply, that tree base is actually an old steel one. This is just to learn heat and possibly make someove the tools I need. Little bigger than a large NY style pizza. Also thank you both for the input. The caulk tube is just a coupling to funnel air through and will make sure its mounted to the outside.
  26. Alright, so I ran the forge for the first real time actually using it today. Heat treated a knife, annealed a couple rasps, and everything seemed all good. Then decided to try and melt down some brass in a crucible. It was taking awhile but the brass was finally starting to melt, when one of the burners was starting to get hot and discolor. I shut the forge off because it was starting to nake me nervous. Heres a link to the forge It was the first burner in the line that started turning blue. Any ideas if and what is wrong? Maybe not putting them deep enough into the forge or too deep? Just on too long or hot? It was really windy out and blowing the flames out the back hole on the end with the burner that got hot.
  27. Eric how did you make the eye? was it punched or folded and then forge welded. Beautiful work.
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