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  2. I guess it would really depend on how much material you are going to be taking off after the fact. Hamons depend on the steel being shallow hardening, so the depth of the hamon isn't a whole lot, so if you are grinding a decent amount off afterwords, then I could see how you might grind out some of the activity, especially for things like ashi. But that's the crap part. You would need to finish that blade *very* close to shape prior to heat treat. I do very thin edges so I have to leave a little meat on the blade so that I don't decarb the edge so much that it won't get hard. Hardening in a salt pot would be nice since you don't have to worry about decarb and you could get the blade exactly to shape before hardening. You should check out Will Morrison's knives and the hamons he produces. He uses salt pots and his hamons are amazing.
  3. I have never (and will probably never) be completely happy with anything I make. I always see things that I could have done differently or better. That is nature of making things though. But, regardless, you still made a great knife and I am sure it will make someone very happy.
  4. Today
  5. So happy it finally got to you and you are happy. Looking forward to seeing it all finished
  6. Very nice work! What is the material in between the two parts of the handle??
  7. I love this knife,very classic like other have said.I like the sheath as well.
  8. My Lord that is beautiful. Thanks very much for sharing.
  9. Yesterday
  10. Thanks Wes. I'm not a huge fan of it now either I wish I had brought the lines from base of the handle all the way to the guard. Also, I wish I had radiused the wood where it meets the guard. But, just like anything... I'll get it next time!
  11. Thanks for the welcome... as far as size, IDK, I just really like to make things... I was thinking about the HT to some degree and the 20# tanks were handy and didn't feel like 1 was long enough for later down the road... I also know there is only so much metal that can be worked before the heat is lost...... I didn't really think of it in terms of huge or all that big either... but I'm also here in the beginners area for a reason,,, so after lurking/reading for a while then signing up and lurking more, the plan (as of now) for the forge is the 2 - 20# tanks insulated and layered with kastolite 30 then a removable layer of hard brick for the floor... I'm contemplating of making the brick from some kastolite but was going to ask questions before I went there... I'm planing to cast a ribbon burner from the kastolite,,, thinking maybe 10 X 3 or 12 X 3 unless I find a reason to do differently... I was going to let the kastolite be the inside finish but with some reading, it seems like a coating over that should be applied... I was expecting to end up with about 7 to 8 inches wide by about 6 inches tall and about 18 inches long or so... maybe 750-800 ci or so... flat bottom arched top and upper side mounted burner... from what I have been seeing, it seems like the ribbon burner is easy to adjust, control temp, easy on fuel consumption and low on the noise created providing the blower is quiet... anyway, all is subject to change until it is done... if I read nothing further or don't hear of a better plan that works for me, that's the road I'm headed down but I'm always open for advise...
  12. I can't say that I am a big fan of the hard ridge in the handle, but otherwise I do really like the knife. I love S-guards and I love nose heavy choppy blades. Good work man
  13. You sure make a fine handle!
  14. Thanks for this, didn’t know this thread existed...thanks for it
  15. After doing some short research I’ve decided to probably scrap this build. It’s atrocious I know, but this was my first attempt at making something actually look good and not just something that looks like a blade with a sharp edge. I’m only a few months into bladesmithing and I’m in a heavy trial and error period. I wrote down what the blade should look like, as well as possible steps I could take to make a new one, with the current blade as comparison. Looking at the picture below, would you say that the steps I wrote as well as the picture make sense? obviously the tang is too thick in the picture, just had to make it all fit on a page...anyways this is my goal, that is what came out. Any suggestions? I think my bevels suck, and in order to get that prominent indent in all the heels (choil), should I hammer with that against edge of anvil? Thanks
  16. Really like your stitching in that leather.
  17. Maybe this will help
  18. James, I hope you don't mind a little constructive criticism. There are a couple of things that I would suggest. One: The tang should taper both ways from front to back. [Leave it a little wider & thicker in front.] This will aid in fitting a slotted guard to the tang. (I suggest getting a file guard to aid in establishing a good shoulder on the back of the ricasso.) Two: The choil or bottom of the ricasso needs to be parallel with the top of the blade. Most like the "Golden Mean" in relation to the length of the ricasso which means usually about 1/2"-5/8" front to back depending on the size of the blade.
  19. Thanks Vern. That was my thought process behind it as well. Nothing fancy or showy, just solid, sharp, and "stabby".
  20. Well, here they are sorry for the grainy cell phone pics.
  21. I have ALOT of spare time at my job. I recently joined a couple bladesmith groups on fb. On one of those someone asked how to make there hamon "pop" One of the responses is to not use a belt grinder at all to sand or polish after heat treat? Really?!? Is there anything to that.? I always go straight to the grinder to get the scale off....although in effort to save some $ I may try an overnight vinegar bath from here on out.
  22. I first want to apologize for asking three questions so far on this blade, but I haven’t been able to find any good hidden tang making tips so I’ve been winging it and asking questions along he way. This is the best I was able to get, and it’s not that good, but any suggestions before I completely grind the blade and treat it? i know tang is awful but hopefully I can hide it enough and it won’t be an issue fitting it into the handle
  23. I love the efficient simplicity. A martial knife should be free of that which is not neccessary.
  24. This is a dagger that I made for the son of a good friend. The young man is in boot camp right now and this is intended as a gift once he completes it. The overall concept was to make a lightweight fighting knife that he could carry with him if he deploys overseas. The blade is 6.75" long with a OAL of 11.75". Handle is black walnut with the guard, pin, and buttcap being mild steel. All of the metal is gun blued and the wood is oiled but intentionally not polished. One of these days I'll figure out how to take a decent picture. Lol Comments and critiques are always welcome. Thanks for looking! Alex
  25. Zeb yeah I'm getting closer to the idea I want. Sketches in steel haha
  26. Looking very good. Someone will be proud to own that.
  27. To pinch a hidden tang from scratch, I use a spring fuller or my guillotine. The above advice is to correct an error (one sided). Image search "spring fuller". If you don't have tools, this is a good one to make as you start your collection. Material required: 1/2" steel rod Skills required: ability to bend steel rods
  28. No problem. Hopefully it turns out good for you.
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