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  2. OK. I am terminally challenged technically. I thought I had ensured that I would be alerted when the next episode aired by subscribing via Apple and Google thingys, but evidently I overestimated my competence for that sort of thing. I began to get edgy about it, but I didn't want to bug Dave (I know he's a busy guy). For those of you who have also been waiting, Episode 8 went live 2 weeks ago. I just found out tonight...…..
  3. Well I had a quick test this morning on a blacksmiths knife from a rasp. I found the head was a bit too light for my general forging and drawing out but I absolutely loved it for forging the bevels. I was able to forge right down to a thin edge with almost no hammer marks. I ran the wire brush over it after quench and that’s it. Just a bit of grinding after temper and done so I think with a bit more practice the hammer will be a great addition. Knife in tempering now so will post some pics when I have ground the blade and finished.
  4. As many do. Its preferable that the fence melt and not burn, I assume. It doesn't take a big area. My whole retort setup is probably 4'x4'. They are smoky and noisy and hot (depending on design) so that's a consideration. Also should have added, on top of opening that airflow being a priority, shortening the forge with clay, also like Zeb recommended, would be a big help. Why burn more fuel than you need to, ya know? No sense in your hot spot being way larger than your steel is.
  5. I’m not sure how to make charcoal, if it needs a big burn area I can’t do it, I don’t have a huge backyard. My forging area is in the are of my backyard covered in gravel, but we’ve tried doing a few burn piles but it’s dangerously close to the fence, for some reason the people that designed the subdivision though it would be an excellent idea to make the fences plastic.. Edit Nor do I have a big steel drum, and I don’t have access to a large amount of hardwood.
  6. Lowes carries a brand called Cowboy charcoal. It's pretty decent. Some of it is in really big chunks, but it's easily broken up. Check there if you havent already. Open up that slit. I recommend drilling holes like Zeb said. Maybe a 1/2 inch hole every 1.5 or 2 inches. That should be priority #1 in my opinion, if you want to continue using charcoal. Are you sure it's not anthracite that tractor supply has? It would be odd of them to carry bituminous, I'm not saying it's impossible, just odd. I tried anthracite coal when I first started smithing, and it was nothing but a sulfur smoke filled pain in the rear. I switched to charcoal and never looked back. Have you looked into making a charcoal retort? So you can make your own charcoal? It's actually really easy.
  7. I agree with Will nice work they look great
  8. Yeah I’m using charcoal, I’ve heard great thing about royal oak lump. I have looked everywhere, Walmart, local grocery store, tractor supply, no royal oak. And I’ve looked on amazon but it’s pretty expensive. tractor supply sells pea size bituminous coal, (or is it anthracite?)would that be okay? I have the air full blast every minute the forge is burning. I’ll get some clay and cover the sides and patch some of the air slit. I taped up the end end of the pipe and it’s working well. And yes yes they are kings ford briquettes.... I’ve found cowboy lump charcoal, but it sparks like crazy and it’s way to painful and hot to grab steel out of the forge. Kingsford is the best I can find right now... really hope I can get real coal soon.
  9. And make sure you blow the ash out of the pipe. Make sure the caps on the pipe. Like he said, clay will get you some more heat, but unfortunately the angle is a little too acute for too much clay. However, if you widen the slot or drill holes to get more air you can then build the clay up. Also, you dont need that much length. Throw some clay over most of that slit. Remove clay for those longer heat treatment projects Get some of that ash and mix it into red clay with some silica sand. You want it still to be clay like. I would mix it course and crumbly and add more clay until its workable.
  10. I will assume you're using lump charcoal? Not briquettes? If not, I'll repeat the mantra; charcoal briquettes are far less than ideal for forging, they are designed to last long and not get too hot, head over to your local hardware store, or Walmart, and get lump charcoal. Burns much hotter. Big problem is that it's a coal forge. Designed to burn coal. Coal likes air pressure, charcoal likes air volume. Open up your air flow a little and I bet you will see better results. It looks a bit restricted for charcoal. Also, that steel frame is acting as a heat sink. Try to clay the inside if you can, it will help divert heat in the proper direction.
  11. Looks like charcoal............. I ran that blower on a great big ol' long troft forge I built for heat treating a katana once. It got it a little too hot............,,,,,,,, .......... are those kingsford briquettes??? Have you tried the natural oak charcoal you can get from Walmart? It might be called royal oak. I got a bag outside. It really should be hot enough. You got red clay over there?
  12. Today
  13. Will W.

    Evil air pocket

    I was thinking TIG as well. I've never ran one on bronze. Should be pretty straight forward. TIG would be better than oxy-acetylene. Brazing melts the filler, while TIG will melt surface material as well as filler, results in a stronger weld. Set it to DC, I would imagine AC would be a little aggressive on bronze, might end up blowing more away then you want. This is all assuming you have access to a TIG welder.
  14. I did mention the 2000° insulation will be the outer shell and the ceramic insulation would be the inner (it's rated for 2400°). Will the ITC-100 and the ceramic insulation be enough to protect the weaker insulation?
  15. Try more air or block off some of your air ports to focus the heat when making smaller blades. You might also try opening up the size of the ports in your blower vent.
  16. The parts I ordered from them were the same way. Packaged very well and exactly as advertised. Good company to work with. I got my VFD off of amazon, as well as my 3 hp motor. Your VFD looks very similar to mine. It's a bit of trial and error to get it programmed and running totally properly, but once you do, they're so nice. Luck to you. May the Colonel run hard and true!
  17. The steel scales up a lot more than I think is normal. But the steel doesn’t get very hot. I’m using charcoal as the fuel, that may be why I can’t get a ton of heat. I can get it got enough to heat treat simple carbon steels, but thats with a pipe, nearly half a bag of charcoal and an hour letting it come to temperature. im thinking a solution may be to plug up half of the holes with some sort of heat resistant refractory, so I have a smaller but more concentrated area of air and heat. I don’t think it’s working as well as it should. I can’t wait to finish my paint can forge, I’ve had little experience with propane but I definitely prefer it to the coal forge, just waiting for the funds to come In so I can get the burner.
  18. Sorry, didn’t specify, here are the pics, it’s a simple coal forge I got a couple years ago.
  19. You need the proper balance of fuel and air, and then the proper quantity. Describe how much of each you are getting. Size of your propane orifice, pressure, etc. Also, do you have any flame coming out the door of your forge? If so, what does it look like? Is the steel scaling up really fast (assuming you can get it hot enough to)? This info will definitely help troubleshoot.
  20. My forge is very simple and should be very effective, But do to my lack of experience i need some help. I can never get the heat that i want out of it, what can i do to make this a better forge? There is plenty of air flow, but i cant seem to get much heat out of it, which results with me waiting sometimes for 20 minutes to get my steel up to temperature. I can never find an area of heat that will heat the steel quickly. The most heat i get is a dull red, 1200 degrees(?) Do i need a more powerful air source to get more heat? I dont really know how to explain what im trying to say, ill get some pictures up here in a few minutes.
  21. I shall call him... Colonel. Yep it does look really well built. Much more sturdy than it probably needs to be. The VDF and motor came pre-wired and it was over packaged. I literally just have to adjust a few things bolt it all to a bench and plug it into an outlet. Back to the packing: alot of time and effort went into making sure it arrived safely. I'm 100% satisfied so far.
  22. Considering he cast the piece, I would assume he still has scraps of the same. An oxy/acetylene torch or TIG welder should take care of it nicely with some filler. Pile it on, melt a puddle. enjoy.
  23. Id say we can end the poll, blacksmith knife pretty much wins. and so it begins...
  24. I know the poll isn't over, but it seems like the blacksmiths knife won, or will at least. I'm going to start work on mine tomorrow .
  25. @Zeb Camper is that the OBM model? Looks good. I built one a few months back using some of their parts, quality stuff.
  26. Yesterday
  27. Will W.

    Evil air pocket

    Hmmm.... With the correct rod (corresponding alloy, one assumes) you should be able to braze that. Fill the hole in and grind it flush. Do you know the exact alloy of bronze? That will be crucial for color matching.
  28. Will W.

    Offset tongs

    Dude! Very nice. Tongs are a bugger to make, and those look great. Clean work.
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