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  1. Today
  2. This one seems to have survived the quench, you can sort of see the weld line, I'll give it a test etch at some point. I definitely need to take more off the other side, as the edge steel is only exposed on this side so far. The sound that brine quenches make still spooks me a bit. My first real pattern welding with homemade steel, I decided to keep it simple; just a single twisted bar with hearth steel for the edge and some of the nicer old wrought iron I have for the spine (somewhat better than the anchor chain I've found). A few directions I might take th
  3. I figured for cladding on a san mai billet, hardware steel would be fine but I guess not. What I can't figure is how the mild cracked in the quench but the core steel is fine. I thought I had read that san mai needs the fastest possible quench medium the alloys can handle? I'm completely new to san mai though. Just a keyboard warrior for now
  4. Yes that was a typo, the mild steel was the cladding. That is what cracked. The core survived and was an old file.
  5. I not sure if the carving is done, or I am done with the carving.....either way, here it is folks.
  6. Yesterday
  7. I meant to add my opinion earlier, but it's late for today and I would rather do it on a desktop than my phone, but the short version is never ever trust hardware store "weldable steel" for critical objects, and don't water quench san mai unless the outer layers are wrought iron. Remind me tomorrow...
  8. I'll PM you and we can talk about details. I'm coming off a Covid bout and I'm a little reluctant to start a commission, but I'd like to help you out. So we'll see what we can do. g
  9. And that is the art in this sort of thing. You have it exactly right.
  10. Thanks Gazz. I’ll have a browse and see what I can learn before joining. I have just discovered that the Z prefix means that the bayonet would have been issued without a rifle to e.g. medical corps, musician, artillery operator, etc. Thanks Alan. That is where I started my search and is a very useful site.
  11. https://worldbayonets.com/Bayonet_Identification_Guide/France/france_2.html Or here, but it's not interactive.
  12. You can try here for info; https://www.gunboards.com/forums/french-firearms-board.11/ or here; https://www.gunboards.com/forums/militaria-swords-bayonets-edged-weapons-forum.23/ You'll have to sign up to be a member if you want to post your pictures or ask questions though.
  13. Hi everyone On a mini break in Swanage I spoiled myself and bought an M1866 Chassepot bayonet in a little maritime antique store. I have done a bit of digging and come up with the following: There is no engraving along the spine so this was not made by one of the four big state arms manufacturers but by a contracting company. Unfortunately this also makes the year and place of manufacture difficult to tell. Though there are a few small chips on the curved edge, the blade has not been sharpened so it may never have been actually issued to a unit.
  14. I'll try to take a few more of it before I box it up It's a constant development and experiments of finding the right fit and finish that feel right. It actually feels like more work to figure out exactly where and what parts of a finish should be left imperfect to give a piece life and character without it just looking sloppy There are right and wrong kinds of tool and forge marks
  15. Hi all Broke the proverbial COVID-ice this week by going to the Jurassic Coast for a few days. I thought I’d share some holiday snaps of this gorgeous part of the U.K. This is where we stayed; the Victorian resort town of Swanage as seen from a hike to the “Old Harry Rocks” The rocks are chalk outcroppings that are left over from a causeway that used to link the Isle of Wight to the rest of the U.K. but has been eroded away by the sea over time. Lulworth Cove Warbarrow Bay… …and as seen fr
  16. And there is that slippery slope; right there
  17. Beveling, sanding, and smoothing is done. Tomorrow I'll add the grace lines.
  18. I managed to get another two blades started today as well as doing some more work on a pattern welded bar I made a while ago. The sanmai let me down a bit last time, with the cladding not being thick enough and the whole width of the steel exposed. I decided to try chiseling a slot and using a hearth steel wedge instead of flat bar, warikomi I believe. I opted to start with a short, thick billet and draw it out rather than welding close to size. The bar was exactly big enough for a second narrow sax and a small broken back seax. Preforms, t
  19. Last week
  20. Hello all, I created an account here just for the sole purpose of picking your brains on some san mai I've made into a puukko style blade. Let me start out by introducing myself. I'm Keith from Indiana, I've been blacksmithing as a hobby for around 14ish years. I'm comfortable forge welding and I'd like to think decent with a hammer. I know there's always more to learn, but I just wanted everyone to know where I was coming from. My san mai construction is hardware store weldable mild on either side (the bar of stock that I got doesn't specify 1018 or A36), with a file for the core
  21. I'm away from the book at the moment, but keep looking. I'll try to check tomorrow.
  22. Not much more of a clue, but I have found an E
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