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  2. So I am still a beginner after a few years thanks to just not being able to put the time "IN" I need/want to- I have the ability now to spend a bit more time and dedicate some financial resources to this. Annnnnd- quenchants have me truly stumped! I have a stash of 1075, 1080, 1084, 1095, O-1 and 52100 and 4140 bits I want to get through and I need to know is PARKS 50 too fast? or should I be leaning to "AAA" Confused and hoping for a bit of guidance- thanks!
  3. Today
  4. Finished the sheath today. Cereal boxes are perfect to make templates with. After bending it in shape I got to do some more silver brazing Ammonia fuming the brass is not as much fun though and the house stinks again
  5. You have several selections to choose from. Some don't have much difference so you just pick what looks like will work for you. Doug
  6. Very nice, I love the period look.
  7. Thank you. It has one hidden pin. I Have finished blade blanks before, this was the first blade I ground and hardened myself. The hole at the lower end was not centered well so I thought that it would look better with a hidden pin.
  8. Success!! The first hot steel has officially gone through the mill, just a little rest piece and reduced only a half turn or so in three passes but all seems normal so far. Still a ways to go setting up the final position of the VFD and moving the motor and reduction gear around, making an infeed table etc. But I’m beginning to understand the machine a bit better now and it’s really a world of possibilities for both ferrous and non ferrous drawing. Also sorry for the weird and probably massive phone pictures, not sure how to resize on mobile
  9. Don't know about your Toledo but this old Ridgid threader has been a joy to have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVvFLsFNwu4
  10. Yesterday
  11. You certainly captured the spirit of the original! Is there a hidden pin at the butt end, or are the scales just glued on?
  12. Here is the process I have been using for years. When I first started making sheaths the stitching was so ugly the knives wanted out of them. You will have to use your imagination a bit because i do not have a sheath on the go that i am making so I will show you the jigs and the finished sheath. First of all my sheaths are glued together with drilled holes for stitching. I use a number 55 drill bit ( .055 )inches to drill the holes and spin it quite fast in the drill. I also use a couple of jigs to hold the sheath in place and at 90 degrees to the drill bit. h
  13. Blade inspired by Sheffield Harrison and Howson hunting knife. Blade 4 mm thick XC75 steel, +- 60 HRC, 15,5 cm long. Total length 27 cm Bronze bolsters and liners. Sambar stag handle scales Copper bolster pins, hidden handle pin and domed handle pin. Any tips or critique are more than welcome.
  14. Hello all. Yesterday I bought 2 motorized pipe/bolt threaders as I've been on the hunt for one for a while to use for twisting damascus billets. They are both in really good condition and came with a whole mess of dies, which was unexpected. I'm wondering if anyone could point me to a source for an owner's manual. It's a Model 999 from from Toledo-Beaver Tools. I found nothing that I trust online using Google. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  15. I use a round needle in a flex shaft to ''punch'' the holes, I can make small adjustments as I go and do not remove material like a drill bit would. The needle kind of burns/melts its way through. It still isn't perfect but the best way to get trough thick stacked leather. It does really suck to poke your fingers with a hot spinning needle in a moment of carelesness
  16. Dough, No I did not have to straighten the antler, I have attempted a few times but never been that successful. Joshua As far as the guard is concerned it was just iron and nickel pattern welded approx 160 layers then I carved the surface with an angle grinder forged it flat cut the guard out and etched the hell out of it with nitric acid. Gerhard You can probably look back at post I have posted in the past or you will find a lot here (1) Richard van Dijk, Bladesmith / Hoiho Forge | Facebook Keep an eye out for my next post, I am about to finish som
  17. I never would have thought a potato would patina a blade. I'll have to remember that one. I think I'll wait to do anything to it until we get a chance to talk a bit more. If he can tell me a bit more about what he wants to do with it, it'll help decide which route to take. I really appreciate the help guys!
  18. This. All I can say is most of you are doing it the really hard way. Here's what I do. Lightly glue up the sheath parts into finished configuration. This it before final profile shaping and before any tooling. Finish the profiling on the 2x72 with a 120 grit belt. Run the stitching groover down the front face and run the stitching wheel down the groove. Mark each dot with a red pen so you can easily see it. Take a 5/64" drill bit that is tapered to a point (use a cordless drill and a runing grinder, I use my disc) and drill the holes on a drill press. Use
  19. On second thought, just skip the grinding (the original grind is poor to begin with) and do the acid etch in the mayonaise jar. See what it looks like. Then decide if you need to do any more.
  20. Here's my opinion. Take that thing to the belt grinder and push those bevels up. Take it to 320 on the belt and straighten out any wobbles on the disc (if you have one) or with 320 by hand. Get a mayonaise jar and put just enough FeCl in it so you can put a clamp on the handle and put the blade in the acid point down just until it reaches the plunge cuts. Do a series of 5 minute etches, rinsing in between until the depth of etch looks similar enough. It shouldn't take more than about 3 cycles from the looks of it. (probably 2). Go to the grocery store and buy a really big potato. Something lon
  21. I do pretty much what Bill says he does. I sand the glued up edges and to welt to get them straight and even. Then I use a groover to lay out the groves on both sides of the edges and lay out my holes with a star wheel. I chuck up a heavy needle in my drill press, in my case a drapery needle, and use the drill press to press the needle, not drill, the needle through the leather. I also made a jig, just a board with a small hole near the middle and very close to the edge for the needle to pass through. The hole near the middle of the board is for when I can lay the leather flat and the hol
  22. Last week
  23. I know the "Right" way to do this is with a trapezoidal awl, but I've never been able to make that work. It may be because my leather is too dry, but I can't get the awl through without bending/breaking it. I have come up with the following "hack" approach. It isn't right, and the results aren't as good as when it is done right. However, it is a small step forward if you are still at the stage where you can't get your holes and grooves to line up on both sides. (It is also slow as snotty molasses on Neptune) Layout your grooves on both (yes, both) sides making sure to k
  24. That's a fine idea. I'm not yet making sheaths, but when I do, I'll remember that.
  25. I struggle with this same thing Alex. Every time I get the gumption to try to make one of these I struggle to get the sketched concept to look right. The darn things look like a simple tringle with some belly on the edge (slightly pregnant triangle?), but I can never make them look right. It seems like very minor adjustments make it go from a stiletto looking thing to a German style chef's knife. I'll have to try Billy's approach to aligning the handle.
  26. No nicer than the scales are, it might be cheaper for you in the long run to just re-handle it. Then you can grind/polish to whatever level you want easily and etch it the normal way. You'd be out some handle material, but probably ahead of the game on time. EDIT - Then you can hold it over your friends head for buying something cheap
  27. That definitely is ringing true. He said that he got it from a pioneer reenactor (if that's a thing). The sheath that is with it is put together fairly well, but looks much newer than the blade. I'm kinda liking the idea of satin bevels!
  28. This is not that a big one. 290x60x4,5 mm, with tang 430 mm long. 54Sic. I am gonna fit it as a half tang or as a hidden tang into a deer antler roll. I think it needs S shaped guard. Jaro.
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