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  3. Thanks maybe I’ll just continue to buy finished blanks for now. Most all the hunters I know prefer stainless for a hunting blade. I’m mainly focused on hunting knifes and it sounds like heat treating the stainless might pose a problem. There are a number of suppliers that have 440c cryogenically treated blanks that seem to be pretty good quality.
  4. A smart guy once told me to use what you have when building from scrap. It’s almost always true. But here’s my situation. I have a 30 gallon compressor tank in great shape. Yes it’s 17” diameter and 28” long to the rounded ends. Yes that’s huge but.....I was at an auction the other day and there was this huge box of what looked like insulation. At first I really didn’t pay it any attention. It turns out it was 2600 degree ceramic insulation 2” thick, 48” wide and 12.5 feet long. Says 8 pound on it. I guess that’s the density? So what if I put 4” of insulation in then coat with refractory? Would 4” walls be bad? Seems like it would only be better but I figured I’d ask you all. I have enough insulation to probably reline it a couple times over. I can cut a vent hole in either end but still line the ends 6” deep to reduce internal volume more. If my math is right 17 wide -8 for walls and bring the ends into 16” it would be about 1050 cube. So 3 burners? Idk, I know it’s huge but I’d never need a bigger one lol. I know it will use more gas than a smaller one but I’m ok with that for now. If it uses too much I can build a smaller one later. My main question is if there’s anything bad about 4” thick ceramic fiber? Btw I got that roll of fiber for $1
  5. Hey guys, finally got some real steel on the way, won't have to use old cold chisels anymore! I'm really enjoying forging from round stock, especially since I like doing integrals. Since apparently 1084 and 1095 don't come in round, I went with some 3/4" round 5160, from Ray Kirk's website. From what I gather, it's harder to heat treat than 1084, but not quite as finicky as O1 or 52100, for example. I have a friend with a digital HT oven I'm going to use, so I should be able to execute a reasonably precise HT. Does that sound doable for a beginner, or am I setting myself up for difficulties when I try to heat treat? Would I have been significantly better off just sticking with 1084 for now? Thanks, Alex
  6. Yesterday
  7. Looks nice! Hard to critique without giving it a test run - proof of pudding is how well it cuts, everything else is quite subjective. It is really the 'thickness behind the edge' that has the biggest effect on how a chefs knife cuts. I grind & stone the bevels on my chefs knives pretty thin before sharpening (so the edge is say 0.004" - 0.006") - its a funny one, as a 0.012" edge can seem thin before sharpening, but its triple the thickness of a 0.004" edge ! Like you say it does not have much distal taper (thin tip is important on a chefs knife for 'swishing' through onions etc), and to my eye there is quite a lot of handle there for a kitchen knife. Looks great and well sculpted for a 'Stab Grip' , but how does it feel in hand for other grips, like 'pinch gripping' which is used a lot. The other thing that I have found to be very important on kitchen / chefs knives is 'board clearance' for your knuckles when chopping etc. You don't want to be working with your knuckles over the edge of the board all the time, which you do if there is not enough clearance. It might be the angle of the photos, but it looks like your knife would be a bit tight for clearance. If so kicking the angle of the handle up a couple of degrees, relative to the back 2/3rds of the cutting edge would make it much easier to use. My knives tend to be all in a more traditional Japanese style, which is very minimalist. I dont have much experience making 'western' type chefs knives so my ramblings might be off the mark for this knife though!
  8. In the meantime, I found some photos I took during the forging of the wolf tooths spearhead I posted few days ago.
  9. Thanks, I'd really like to see that! A winged spear is something I have not made.
  10. Yesterday I started a new project - winged Viking age spearhead. I based on archeological find from Ostrów Lednicki (Poland). I am not quite happy with the final effect, there are some miss-weldings between socket and wings, I did it the first time, I hope next one will be better. In two days I am going to upload Video about the forging of it to my yt channel.
  11. R. Thiele

    Jackpot!

    Hit the flea market yesterday early, and hit a stash of old Nicholson and Simmonds files....about 40 or so. Bout to let em soak!
  12. Like Geoff, I am a carbon steel guy, but I have been investigating stainless for pocketknives. Forging is out for most stainless alloys suitable for blade work, except maybe 440C. For stock removal, your heat treating setup is your limiting factor. Most blade stainless steels need a long soak at 1900 - 2100 degrees F. This means for most of them you will need a programmable oven like a Paragon or Evenheat, or you will need to send the blades out for heat treatment. The exceptions to this are Uddeholm-Bohler AEB-L and Sandvik 12c27 and 14c28. People have been having good results from these alloys using a well-controlled gas forge to soak in. These are relatively simple alloys for stainless steels. That said, I have no personal experience with them yet. I intended to by now, but life keeps getting in the way.
  13. Thanks! The copper was kind of an experiment, turned out ok. I think that technique definitely has some potential. Maybe make it bigger, and use a jewelers saw to cut out floral patterns in the copper or something
  14. yes, I am hoping to make it...but with whats going on I have no idea if that will be possible or even prudent.
  15. If you're thinking about stock removal, there are a number of stainless steels to choose from. I'm a carbon steel guy, so one of the stainless makers will have to weigh in. If you are thinking about forging a blade, stainless is not the steel I would start with. It can be a challenge to forge and heat treat in a hobby shop. I would suggest a 10xx steel, 1080/1075 or perhaps 5160. Geoff
  16. That is striking in a subtle sort of way. Yep I like it.
  17. Yep, I'm diggin' that one!
  18. Waaaaayyy better than my 3rd. It looks great! I really like the handle / guard area. The protruding copper looks really cool. You are definately on your way!! Tom
  19. Well now, THAT turned out nice, didn't it?
  20. Work with it first! refacing an anvil I find is pointless. people have looked at my hay budden and the first thing they say is to reface it, but I really don't find the need for it at all. The little divots, and chops, I learned to work around them. Or even use them to help add some texture. If I wanted to polish it up, I would only choose a section to do that to. Why do the whole thing when you can only work as much as the face of your hammer? Swayed and saddled anvils, after a while you really don't notice that too much. At least I don't. From the best I can tell, my hay budden is about the some time frame as yours. It is a forge welded Wrought body with a hardened top plate. I am not 100% positive about that, unless I'm mistaking bands of steel in the gang I've been seeing. (A friend of mine collects them) There's no serial number left, but I place mine before WWI due to the wrought body. I chose not to do any repairs to mine it as anything I do may take away what hard steel is left in the plate.
  21. Since I have to haul all my tools out of the garage to forge in the driveway. I had to figure a way to keep my tools handy while working and be able to store when done. I made a folding rack that keeps my tools in one place and can fold up for easy storage. Just put tools in a bucket for storage. Hope someone in the same situation finds it handy. The frame is 1” angle and the cross members are 1.5” x 1/4. They are drilled out on the end 7/8 to go around 1/2 pipe with 1/2 all thread through and bolted to frame. The other end is 7/8 but cut out at an angle on bottom to connect to other end. You can see that in one of the pictures. Pipe and all thread can be used for the pivot and other end but I had rod with threaded ends already.
  22. Blade--W1 Handle--Desert Ironwood Guard--300 layer Damascus w/ivory inlay & clam shell knuckle bow Fittings--416
  23. Cleaning out- these have to go- Free to a good home! I've switched my bench molding over to petrobond- and just don't cast as much Greensand anymore. Bring buckets/bags and boxes- these bags are crispy old. I work odd hours- so be patient- I will usually get back to you within a day.
  24. Listen to Geoff. Even if it is one with the all steel top half, the hardened part is still only the first 1/4 inch of face at most. Pretty much anything you do to the face will take away some hardness.
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