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  2. Thanks for sharing, ive been using too much and it does hardly anything.
  3. A very intriguing finish. Many thanks for taking the time to document your process.
  4. Pinned! I'll even move it to Fit and Finish if you think it belongs there.
  5. Thanks for the clarification Jerrod. It's welcome. Tooling and hammer control. (it took me a long time to gain any control, and it's still a WIP, so I rely on my tooling quite a bit) For those of you with a power hammer or a press, get your dies set up so the ends are aligned and use the machine to set the plunge cuts. If you lack either of those, you can make a spring fuller or scissor fuller tool to do it by hand. You can also do it on the edge of the anvil with no tooling. The trick is using the right tongs and using them to limit the area affected by the hammer, press or fuller. There are two camps in blade forging. The first camp likes to forge the tang first, because it is easier to grip with a small pair of tongs. The second camp forges the blade out first and the tang last. If you are in the first camp, you will need a pair of offset tongs, the second camp can use a box-jaw tong or offset tongs, the tongs just have to fit the size of the stock. Mark the location where you want the plunge cut on one side of the blade blank with a soapstone or white charcoal pencil. Remember to leave yourself some extra room for the grinding process. Bring the steel up to heat and grip the tongs on the hot steel at that line. Butt the tongs up against the tooling or the anvil edge and strike the plunge on the first side, flip it over (don't move the tongs!) and strike the other side. Repeat as necessary to develop the plunge cut.
  6. When I first got interested in mustard patinas, I asked around how it was done and the answer I got was "you put mustard on the blade". While I understand it meant there was no wrong ways to do it, I was hoping for a bit more details . Now that I've done a few patinas and had A LOT of requests on how I get this stonewashed look, I'm going to give you the details in this short tutorial. This bladesport'ish blade was not intended to have a patina but it was the only one I had around that's large enough for a good demo. In case you wondered, it is 80CrV2 steel. This patina will work pretty good on any simple carbon or tool steels, as long as they don't contain too much nickel like 15n20 or L6. The nickel increases the steel's resistance to acid. So, what I first do is hand sand the blade to #800. It may not be necessary but I like how, after the patina is done, the blade is still shiny from a certain point of view and shows how good the finish is. After the blade is finished and cleaned with acetone or brake cleaner, I use these cotton pads to dab the mustard. Only a small amount of mustard is necessary. The thinner the layer, the darker the finish. I dab a LOT to get an even layout. Now is the time to let it dry. Wait at least 30 minutes. Then clean thoroughly in soapy water and dry. Here's what it looks like after just one layer. You may be satisfied and stop there or do a second layer for a darker and more homogeneous finish. Everywhere there was tiny mustard spikes is where the blade did barely etch and shows those lighter spots. Now a second coat. And how it looks after a good cleaning. I have found that applying a thin film of food grade mineral oil darkens the finish even further. It's not been applied yet on these photos. If you have any questions, please ask and I'll update the tutorial if needed.
  7. For the record, the "blue brittle range", will still have that fine structure. Those hardnesses indicate that this isn't the problem here, but just wanted to point out that that brittleness is a state in (tempered) martensite, so a fine grain should still be expected.
  8. That is what I was thinking; looks great....inspires me to do something similar.
  9. I turned the handle on a lathe.
  10. Oh no, this is definitely not something that I came up with, so it is something I would never take credit for. If you look at a lot custom made chef knives, you will see this. Check out @Don Nguyen or Mareko Maumasi for example. Some of Mareko 's knives have a heel that kicks back quite aggressively. You aren't being pushy. It is about 5/8". The width of the blade is about 1.75"
  11. Epic! How did you do the ribbing on the handle?
  12. Just far enough apart I'm sure there's no oil splatter on the kiln, about 1m.....one quick movement. Quench tank, the kiln, the blades in question and the raw material. The second blade from the top I straightened using the 3 pin method in the vice, bend was exactly in the middle of the blade.
  13. Another sweet one Gary !! You never cease to impress !! ..........................
  14. Gerhard, I think the idea of getting an ammo can is a good idea. I tend to do more of a horizontal quench, well it's more diagonal than anything. Not saying it will solve your problem, but it's a good start. At the very least, you might be able to see the warp happen in real time. It might lead to some clues. Is it possible that you don't have enough oil for these longer blades ? I do most of my quenches in one of the longer ammo cans, which holds a bit over 2.5 gallons of oil. How thick is the blade going in ? I would really try to do a quench or two when it is a bit darker in the sky. At the very least you will be able to see more of the colors just to make sure everything looks right. Also, I believe 5160 is one of those steels that can benefit from multiple quenches. Not a huge amount, but some people do it. I know that I've had blades come out warped/twisted before, so I would straighten them out in the forge and the quench sometimes 2 or 3 times, and it usually comes out straight eventually. Just another thing to try...
  15. Do you have to go very far to get from the kiln to the quench tank? Thin blades cool down quickly and unevenly. If you have far to move, maybe the blade temperature isn't uniform anymore once it hits the oil.
  16. Joshua, these are all turning out beautiful. Your work (and several other notables on the site) is extremely inspiring. A lofty goal to shoot for. I noticed in your original pictures, most (if not all) the forged blanks have fairly well defined (AND STRAIGHT!) plunge lines forged in. How do you do that?
  17. That turned out well indeed! The subtle pattern is perfect.
  18. Bill, Dick hasn't been seen around here for almost 10 years, sorry.
  19. Just go read the threads in the History subforum Josh mentions, it's all there.
  20. Wes, that's exactly what I was talking about on the heel. Interesting idea. It does add something. All the chef knives I've looked at have that area straight down. Could this become a "signature" of Detrick Chef Knives ? Thanks for the dimensions. Not to be pushy, but how thick is it at the ricasso?
  21. Also, bricks are heat sinks. Hard firebrick sucks up heat like nobody's business. Soft bricks are fine. Wool is far better than either. Finally, if you do look up Coffee Can Forge, pay no attention to anyone who mentions lining it with a mix of sand and plaster of paris. That's nature's way of saying "this guy's an idiot."
  22. I really like my atlas 30k burner, I got it with a regulator and hose for $50 I think, it was probably less. Its nothing fancy but I cant complain. My forge is about 4" wide and 10" long internally and it gets plenty hot. Sometimes I harden blades with a torch, its nice because you can have a little more control but sometimes there just isnt enough heat, on the other hand, its easy to get a blade too hot with my atlas burner especially if I only want to heat the edge and not the spine. I had a hose that connected a torch head to a 20pound tank but it caught on fire. Just use the little propane cans that the torches are made for, I have an adapter to refill them from a 20 pound tank but the cans warn against refilling them so thats probably a bad idea. I dont think I would mind getting exploded to save a few dollars, at least I would be able to understand why it happened, but im sure most people would disagree. But, uhh, yeah dont do ANYTHING stupid or weird with propane. Im pretty sure the torch-to-tank hose almost got me killed, somewhere along the lines of checking for a gas leak with a match. I can be pretty creative in most parts of my life but I never consider fooling around with my propane tanks or burner, I do what everyone else does.
  23. Hi Steven My quench tank is 120mmx120mm square tubing so sideways movement should be incidental, I do move Up&down during the quench.
  24. Edge quenching is the bees knees, for most stuff at least. Though, sometimes the blade will curve down. Normalizing does seem to help with warps, ive had blades warp in the first cycle but not again or to a lesser extent after the next normalizings. I dont try to straighten hardened blades, ive done it a couple times, they have to be at least 400°F hot. Or if you really want to push your luck, you might be able to straighten after tempering by bending the blade until it takes a set, I wouldnt suggest anyone try that unless the blade is heat treated very well in a way that the blade will take a set before breaking. I would guess that would damage the blade some, so trying to straighten a blade after hardening is probably one of the more difficult and risky things you can do. Sometimes I can straighten a warp during edge quenching but you dont have much time for that, you can pull the blade from the oil before it gets below a certain temp and straighten then, its not easy to do if you quench in the dark though. As mentioned before, just a little unevenness in a blade can cause a warp. Are you moving the blade around in the quench? Sideways movement is asking for a warp.
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