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  2. Yes. Do a temper first. I snapped the first blade that warped. Lesson learned.
  3. Looking good Connor! I would recommend that you do 1 temper cycle as is before you try to correct the warp. Otherwise you risk snapping the blade as you counterbend it. I'd start with 1 or 2 pennies placed at the highest point of the curve, and then clamp the ends to a piece of angle iron or some other backer that will stay straight as you clamp. Temper for an hour or so and then check it. If it doesn't come back all the way straight, add another penny and go again.
  4. Yeah, the G1015 is the one I meant. I didn't catch that you were talking $AUD. You can get the G1015 for $500US or less when they run sales. I almost bought one for $475 about 4 years ago, but decided to save for something better. There are a number of DIY 2x72 plans out there if you can get the parts fabricated.
  5. Today
  6. There is a source for bronze here with two options so I would value opinions on the properties and desirabilities of the better one for handle fixtures . I cant find a source for brronze pinstock so what would you sugest as a suitable pin in both 3/32 and an 1/8 for whichever of these bronzes is suitable if they are for our type of work.
  7. There was a group buy of 2" x 36" Multitool attachments on the now-defunct British Blades forum a few years ago. I think it was an importers stock clearance, but the price was a fraction of list (I think they were about 60 quid each). I bought 3 of them, and a 4" x 36. One of the guys on the forum came up with a kit to fit the MT to an IEC metric 80-frame foot-and-face-mount motor. It was a pretty simple kit: basically a few bits of plasma-cut 6mm plate, a few fasteners and a bit of 1mm shim stock to wrap round the 19mm motor shaft and adapt it to the 3/4" bore of the wheel. I bought 2 of them. They worked brilliantly, though the shim thing was a lot of faffing about and I just used Loctite on the second one I built. I used 0.75 kW (1 HP), 3-phase, 4-pole motors because I had a number of different VFDs available. If I was doing it again now, I would use a 1.1 kW (1.5 HP) 2-pole motor and a Sensorless Vector VFD. I mounted the third attachment to a really cheap, nasty 1/2 HP bench grinder. It beats the wotsits out of having no belt grinder, but is definitely underpowered. I had a try of one that someone had put on a 900-Watt bench grinder and that was a properly useful tool in a fab shop. The MT kits we had were for a 3/4" shaft with reducing bushes supplied to fit smaller sizes. I gather there have been other kits that will only go to a maximum 5/8" shaft, so cannot be readily used on an 80-frame motor. It's worth checking maximum shaft size on the one you are considering. In your shoes, I'd get the Multitool, mount it to a cheap/available bench grinder, then save for a motor and VFD. Have a think about making an adaptor plate in the meantime. That way, the only thing that you'd need to buy that wasn't on the direct upgrade path would be the cheap bench grinder. Even on a 1/2 HP bench grinder (a little under 3000 RPM, assuming you are on 50 Hz mains), it's able to stock-remove for knifemaking faster than most beginners can do with files. It does mean that you get to develop grinding skills, rather than filing skills.
  8. Finally gave myself some time to finish up the second one. Intentionally left file marks and imperfections on it to try and make it look a little more authentic but that's going to take a lot more practice to get just right.
  9. A good day in the shed. I spent the better part of the day on the helve hammer with some good progress made.Still have to cut the drive arm and the tup shaft and make upm the connectors for them. I am going to do the connectors for both the tup and the drive arm with three sets of holes with the longest set for the lowest setting as @Alan Longmire sugested with an inch clearance at the anvil then another set at 1 1/2 and 3 inches so in total I will have 6 inches of upward adjustment for when I may be using the likes of the spring fullers I will be making I still have to make up the gooseneck and guide but am really quite pleased with where it isThe motor is set so that I dont need a spring to hold it off the belt tension as the way I set it the weight of gives it a natural tendency is to fall back toward the main shaft so taking tension off the belt. I have a wood block for it to rest against but will replace it with a steel now that I have it worked.
  10. You may have more paitence than I have. When I am in the midst of a project whether it is the planning or the construction I eat and sleep it, or rather I dont sleep like this morning I woke at 2.15am and got up at 3.30. By the time breakfast time riolled round I had thought through all that I could think of between where I was and when the project was finished and I could use it. Knowing how to go ahead with it meant I simply had to spen the day doing so.
  11. I HT my Yakut knife tonight and as expected it got a decent sized warp, luckily its not a ruffles potato chip warp, but instead a smooth curve. Im thinking of using shims in the temper but Im not sure of the placement of the shims. Sorry for the horrible pictures, my hands shake so the camera doesn't focus. Also, what is the estimated rockwell hardness of an old Nicholson file? No matter how hard i pushed into the blade the file skated. So im assuming its pretty dang hard. I think I may be getting somewhat good at this stuff, I still can't see decalescence but the second I see recalescence I put it back in the forge for 2-3 seconds to regain that previous heat and then quench.
  12. Roughly 3500 lbs of perfect power hammer anvil. $300
  13. first hammer up for sale is a 3 lb snub nose cross peen. Price $70+shipping
  14. A good day in the shed. I spent the better part of the day on the helve hammer with some good progress and then after lunch a customer came to pick up a knife and bought another one for the for sale box.Still have to cut the drive arm and the tup shaft, make up the gooseneck and guide but am really quite pleased with where it isThe motor is set so that I dont need a spring to hold it off the belt tension as the way I set it the weight of gives it a natural tendency is to fall back toward the main shaft so taking tension off the belt. I have a wood block for it to rest against but will replace it with a steel now that I have it worked
  15. Stunning blocks @Joshua States He is putting a two of those blocks asside to come with some more tassia blackwood and few of the amboyna burl and I showed a couple of days back.
  16. Thanks everyone for all the advice! Do you know which model you mean? Other than that Grizzly doesn't supply to Australia, it would be good to know in case one ever pops up! The G1015, which seems to be suggested a lot, is $600 USD which once you convert to AUD is well past the budget unfortunately. Unless you're referring to either their 1x42 or 1x30 models? Total beginner question here but what exactly does bad tracking mean? I know tracking means getting the belt to stay centered over the platen so does bad tracking mean that while grinding the belt can move too far to either side and get shredded by getting caught up in the wheels? Jon, great to find someone who has one of these! Yes I make my knives with stock removal. Do you think that even with your setup working at its best (as in low speeds), you would still prefer to use files for the bevel? I'm sure I could find the attachment and a variable speed grinder so it's still an option I think. And as you mentioned, one of these is useful for handles and other wood working purposes, which I do a lot of, which is why it got me interested in the first place. Gameco down here stocks a good supply of 2x36 belts which fixes that problem. Thanks again everyone
  17. I think if I had ever asked my grandmother for a recipe, she would have looked at me and said "What recipe?, you just make it" :-) Although, I really, really wish I had her Minced Meat recipe.
  18. About 1.5mm at the base, tapering to less than .5mm at the tip. Hard to say exactly, I only have a straight edge as far as measuring tools haha
  19. I finally ordered some of that stabilized wood from Jason Williams on FB (thanks for the tip @Garry Keown) and they arrived today. These are heavy in the hand and feel like rocks, but wow!
  20. I ran my rusty for a couple years before the mild steel spring broke. I got a spring pack for it and then bought a new hammer. I never finished fixing the old hammer. I really like what you have done so far!!! I am planning on building something like the anvilfire X1 or like Geoff's hammer for a friend of mine.
  21. Looks good! I really like the leaf. How thin?
  22. Dang, that was fast. My projects take months............even years sometimes!
  23. I started work on a Dog's Head Hammer today. First hammer head I've attempted. I only lasted a couple of hours because it was 93 degrees today and the humidity was so thick you could hardly see across the pastures because of the haze. So it was brutal in front of a forge. I'm going to have to make a punch and hammer drift to complete it. So I'm a long way from having a hammer.
  24. I use my grandmothers recipe for rhubarb but ours has figs in it and is a favourite of the family.
  25. It is all done except for the last bits being put together thanks Gilbert. Everything is here now. I just have to cut the tup shaft to length and weld in the ends and the same with the push arm. Mount the motor, wire it up and I am done.
  26. Yesterday
  27. Hey y'all, new knife completed. A friend requested a small utility knife she could use in the field for dissecting wildflowers, and when asked, said her favorite type of leaf is a ginko leaf, so i carved one into the butt of the handle: I made the blade quite thin, so as to be able to cut open plant specimens with minimal damage. First blade I've made that's thin enough to be significantly flexible, it's springing right back to shape so far. Blade is forged from an old craftsman allen wrench, handle is cowbone and mexican cocobolo, with a leather spacer and copper pin. Please excuse the somewhat rough finish on the blade, I really need to get my polishing game together. Let me know what you think!
  28. I will add on the tracking. It will track true but getting it there is a pain. I’ve destroyed new belts trying to get it to track. In the picture, on the left of the belt you can see a little paddle. This is the tracking adjustment. It is very sensitive. One way or the other too far and it will shred a belt fast. I’ve taken to using a wrench to tap on it up or down to get it to track at the slowest speed. If I want to increase speed for grinding steel I increase slowly and tap in the direction it needs to go. The thing is you will tap too hard because you can’t see anything changing. (The tracking varies by speed by the way.) Then the paddle loses its tension and goes loose. Belt shredded. My setup is good at lowest speed to about 1/3 up. Anything faster and it’s horrible. You can still remove metal with it. But I can’t “hog” off steel with it. At higher grits on slow speed it will considerably cut down on hand sanding. I forge by the way. If I were doing stock removal an angle grinder and good files would work better. Hope this helps. Jon
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