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  3. I am starting a new project, one that has been on the to-do list for a while. It was inspired by a post I saw on this forum a few years ago. This will be a 4-bar project, so I need to get some materials together. I'll need this. I'll need one of those. I'll need a piece of that Then I went to work and now I have this.
  4. Nothing like being there David. Either way you will learn loads and really climb up that learning curve.
  5. Thanks Allan! It’s been a very tedious build. Largest and most complex I’ve done up to date. A lot of firsts on this one. I am pleased with it.
  6. If you've lined it with castable you don't need anything on top, unless you want to add an IR reflective coating like ITC-100 or Plistix. These can get you an extra hundred degrees or so, but are not usually necessary.
  7. I bought a foot long bar of 3in x 1 in LG2 bronze but can not find any pinstock to suit. Plenty of phospher bronze welding wire and will try that for a colour match but do any of you know where I could source 3/32 pinstock of the LG2 bronze.
  8. This is the 3rd time of firing up the forge making sure all castable is cured, would it be beneficial to apply Satanite the walls ? I know I don't want to cover the floor with it sense it is easily damaged by flux. I still have not applied kiln wash either. I have noticed very little Dragons breath so far but I have not opened the needle valve more than 3 full turns. On the safety side of things: I installed a 3/8 electromagnetic gas valve and a an air proof switch for safety should we loos power or the fan motor fail the gas will cut off. I have no tongs to yet to reach in to the forge, this will be my first project, to forge out my tools. hopefully 3/8 re-bar will work for this, pleas correct me if I wrong, If I'm wrong, I also have 7/16 spring steel. also still search for that "Anvil" I would love to here you suggestions and recommendations
  9. Sorry Gilbert my mistake the TOL is 13 1/4 not the blade length.
  10. So I know it’s been a couple of months but life has been crazy!! So I went with the Sil Fos and it has worked great!! Finally have the Dirk and scabbard all finished up!! Thank you for all your advice!! Aaron
  11. Beautiful work. What Stainless did you use? 410?
  12. Finished up the tool rest yesterday and the stand this morning
  13. That really came out great nice finishes. That's a huge blade.
  14. OAL length 13 1/4 blade width just under 2 blade thickness .090 edge thickness .010
  15. Ok let's do this again. I had lost weight before from the mishap so I added a pound or so of W2. Calculating the estimated carbon of the puck and the new steel addition, the carbon was estimated to lower to a more workable 1.7ish. The new puck is 5 pounds. The surface I dendritic in places and the dirty ferric etch shows grain boundary cementite in most areas with pockets of heavier dendrites. I'm estimating carbon at 1.6-1.7% currently. It may change when I mix up some Nital again.
  16. That came out beautifully Cal. What are the final dimension?
  17. I like the way that's heading.
  18. Just a quick update on things. After long communications with Frosty, I believe I have reached the finish line. Once I re-satanite the ports, I will post pictures of the first forging experience I get out of it. That's probably the most annoying part if I'm honest. Taking the burners out to tune, retune, retune, retune(you get the picture) really takes a toll on the satanite. Luckily the majority of it doesn't come off with a shop vac directly on the cracked layer therefore it's basically just sealing the cracks. When people say the burners should be loud, they're LOUD. My neighbor came over and was mid sentence when I fired it up at 6 psi and it drowned him out almost entirely. He said he can hear it plum down the road as well so I must be doing something right! The yellow in the dragon's breathe is from the paper I used to light it up. Once it got ejected from the ports, the exhaust turns a nice blue color. Really satisfying to see after a long build. VID_20200703_214712.mp4
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