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  2. Hey that's a beer from my place . My prefered one from Unibroue is la Maudite. It's a shame it has been sold to Sleeman which has then been sold to Sapporo. Though it's one of those rare cases where the quality of the craft beer didn't seem to change after being sold to a beer giant.
  3. Today
  4. It is hard to get a good pic but with carefull touch and go on the grinder it comes in very close even if the shadows do not show it as close as it is. From here it is marked and draw filed "round the curve" by only taking off the thickness of the pen mark at any one stroke. After a couple of "file and fits" it is exceptable with no gaps showing This first scale is then used to mark the second scale and the process is repeated With both sides fitted one side can be clamped in the special jig I made for this purpose and the holes for the pins can be drilled. The profile of the tang can be marked on the scale once the holes are drilled
  5. Back in the shed this morning I got the hydrochloric acid heated and etched Henry's blade. With that taken care of the bolsters were pined and epoxied in place, which allowed the handle scales to be cut to a more convenient size The knife is placed on the scale and a scribe marks the top and botom of where the curve of the bolster ends are so the 2 inch curve can be marked in The curve is cut on the bandsaw which is only a close aproximation of what it needs to be so there is some fitting to be done from here.
  6. I had a road trip the other day and delivered the presentation knife and 1911 grip box sets along with another 8 knives so it was a pleasing day even if it was a long one with over a 1000 mile on the truck by the time I got home. Shane, the owner of the gunshop is ex military and has some interesting toys in store even though some of them are not for sale
  7. Made some progress tonight. Got the scales roughed in and sanded to 1200 and put a couple coats of paste wax. I think I'm just going to add a few coats of wax to the wood over time. It seems pretty oily and very hard. 
  8. Making charcoal is pretty easy. And nearly free, with the right kind of land available to you. Just takes time, really.
  9. I caught glimpses of this in process on FB. What a journey it was. That came out spectacular Matt.
  10. That's going to be a nice looking pattern. Looking forward to more progress, Bruno!
  11. Yeah I’ve been using charcoal the past year, But real coal will be a lot cheaper once I get some of it, hopefully I can get some soon.
  12. That is some seriously gorgeous work Matt! I love all of the dark pantinas; that hits on all cylinders for me. That steel is fantastic!
  13. And that is what I typically do, with mixed results. I am in agreement; it is better than I could do as well.
  14. Damn! The others guys covered what I have to say, but I'll say it again... seriously impressive.
  15. Re-reading through John Verhoeven's "Damascus Steel Swords," I think I may have found something that can help you. He writes about the H-W-S method of forging crucible steels (the abbreviation stands for the names of the developers of the method.) "In the first step [of the H-W-S method] the ingot is heated to a high temperature for a long time. This treatment will dissolve all of the cementite carbide particles and form quite large austenite grains. It is then slow cooled which causes all of the austenite grain boundaries to become filled with sheets of cementite..." I believe that long, high temperature soak may be vital, to dissolve the carbides, which could be causing your cracking and crumbling. He explicitly states in the same paragraph that this method does not produce the same surface pattern or microstructure as the Damascus blades of old. Not sure if that is important to you or not, but there you go. Hope that helps. Edit: just reread your post about you buying Verhoeven's book. I assume were talking about the same book?
  16. Pure is a pretty relative term. The melting point drops pretty fast with a few stray elements. And remember, the iron-carbon phase diagram only covers iron and carbon, there are a lot of elements in even "mild" or "low alloy" steel.
  17. I should just make room in the shop and get the 30 hp motor in and build the damn RPC. I have all the components.
  18. Alan, respectfully; I thought pure iron melted around 2700° (what I was told in welding class years ago) and I thought welding temp for low carbon was somewhere around 2300°-2400° or so? I just know I get it hot enough to bubble flux, make fumes, and sling it everywhere when I turn a 180 to the anvil.
  19. The only reason I have it on a VFD is for a temporary converter until I build my 30 HP rotary phase converter which might have to wait till I add on to the back of my shop. I should have it built already seems how all the equipment I seem to buy is 3 phase. I will go through the entire screwed up menu again. I spent 3 hrs programming it last night and thought I had it. It runs fine until I put a load on it. Thank you for the support John I have been kicking myself since I bought it. I should have bought an anyang. They have a lot more going for them and James runs them and sets everything up. This came with a motor in a box and cosmoline all over the thing. The motor mount had the slots torched in it and they weren't even close to being in the right spots. If it was ran at the factory they didn't use this motor mount and I know that they are not ran by the distributor.
  20. Yesterday
  21. I built my forge and burner based on this design: The only thing I added was a gate valve for adjusting my air flow. It was very simple to build and, like Josh said, being a blown burner it's easily adjustable.
  22. i'm having the opposite problem today... suddenly my inbox is flooded with notifications for threads i'm not subscribed to!
  23. Dont forget you can run charcoal in that too. And you need coal the full length to keep enough back pressure for good airflow. This doesn't mean your fire has to be that long though. PM me if you need any advice on it. Good luck man!
  24. It was impressive before I read it was wootz!
  25. on a side note, put the VFD in an IP66 enclosure. They contain all kinds of electric gizmos that attract metallic dust, then they go 'poof' in a cloud of expensive smoke (I have learnt this expensive lesson, twice..... ) edit, just noticed your post above that you are on it re. the VDF enclosure !
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