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  2. Hi Folks. Ive been making knives a little while now and thought I’d get some feedback on them from the pros I generally make chef/kitchen knives as I’m UK based and not much call for hunting, skinning knives and the like. Id appreciate some general feedback on things like handle shape, blade length, quality, thickness etc.
  3. I like it as well, they have plenty champions they can recycle and this improves the level of competition. My ambition of taking part in an international edition is dead, won't be able to make anything inside those time limits. @billyO I doubt you'd find a proper copy on youtube......and if you do it won't be up for long.
  4. Thanks Alan that’s really helpful! I’m guessing just threaded black iron pipe works for this?
  5. Today
  6. Felt like something a little more artistic today
  7. Welcome! Blown burners are as simple as they come. No tape needed, no sealing required, no flares, no tiny gas jets. Just dump in gas while the blower's on and you're good to go!
  8. This is my first adventure into the world of multi billet pattern welding, and I expect not my last. The layers are as follow, for the spine it is some wrought iron gifted to me by a friend for this specific project, the middle is about 10 layers of 15n20 and 1084 twist and the edge bar is some wonderful W2 gifted to me by Dave Stephens. The construction may be new to me but I picked a familiar style for the blade, that being the seax. With a rough idea of wanting to do a Frankish narrow seax I set to work, the photos follow the the basic outline of my steps. First getting all the pieces tig welded together then actually forge welding them, next the blade was roughed out (bottom) and lastly the most recent shot of a test etch done on it by my friend and collaborator Michael Bergstrom. The blade has already been handed off to him in preparation for him starting the handle. I hope y'll enjoy it! and I can't wait to be posting photos when they get in of the handle.
  9. Hi all, I’ve been lurking on the site for a while but thought it was about time I said hello! I’m a pretty recent convert to bladesmithing. Been at it about a year now. So hello from a UK Bladesmith Ive also got one or two questions about burners. I’m planning to build some blower burners based on the designs posted on the site. I particularly like the t-junction ones. I couldn’t really figure out whether these needed to be sealed or just screwed together (I remember a post saying not to put Teflon on them though). So do they need sealing up? And would this be with plumbers tape (like that used on radiator fittings) or welded together? Also am I correct in thinking the burner doesn’t need a flared end as we aren’t going for a Venturi effect? Any help would be real nice
  10. You don't have to use your kitchen oven. Many people, me included use a second-hand toaster oven! Just fill a tray with sand to help stabilize the rise and fall of the temperature and you'll be fine. Can you temper with a block, sure but like Joshua said, if you don't know what you're doing, you'll overshoot and get a soft blade, or undershoot and have an uneven temper with soft and hard spots that will eventually cause fatigue.
  11. It's an old blacksmith method, not really any more to it then what you described. It works, but is slow.
  12. Well Billy, that’s a great question, any time I've attempted to influence my wife, in my favor, by the subtle use of wine, has not gone well. Sooo I’m thinking better to ask for forgiveness rather than permission and have the wine myself
  13. Get a counter top roaster and use it to heat an oil bath to put the blade in. Do it outside, keep the lid handy and a fire extinguisher would be a pretty good idea. I don't know how precise on the temperature range they are but the operating range should be within the requirements of most and the thermal mass will prevent temperature swings. If you do this don't even think about using water if you do have a flair up in the pot. I wouldn't even have the hose turned on. Use the lid to smother the flames or have an abc rated fire extinguisher only. Doug
  14. I would "guess" what it is but I already seen the facebook post so it wouldn't be fair! Cant wait till it's done and see the finished project.
  15. How did Owen Bush put it? Oh yeah...It's tricksy. It's kind of like tempering with a torch or in front of the forge. It works, but it's very tricksy. It's difficult to get an even temper and the colors will change very quickly. Why don't you use the kitchen oven or the BBQ?
  16. It worked! I'd use parchment paper and not wax paper if I did it again.
  17. Well.. this year is going by faster than expected..I’ve been so focused on making other knives, and I forgot about kith hopefully I have the time make something, maybe not a folder but hopefully something sharp..
  18. A chicken tractor is a rolling/movable, bottomless enclosure for allowing to keep chickens captivated, but easily moved to new "pasture" around the yard. People build them in all different sizes. I've seen them as small as 3'x4' and as large at 12'x18'...............and I'm sure there are larger. Do a search on-line and you'll see lots of examples.
  19. Hey everyone- currently working on my first blade, and thinking ahead to the tempering process. From what I’ve read and watched, the standard process involves an oven, but that isn’t going to work for me. I have seen one video with an alternate method but I cannot find anything on specifics (maybe I’m using the incorrect wording when searching) I’ve been calling it using a hot block. Heat a block of steel, place the spine of the blade on the steel, moving side to back to side until the colors bleed to the edge (straw goldish color). Wondering if anyone here has information on that method and if they’d be so kind as to share. thanks, Mike
  20. Yesterday
  21. Jake, for my impression, I am liking the overall flow/shape/proportions better than the original. I wish better photos were available to see more details and roll the construction around mentally, (as if I could do something like this!) I thought pin placement on the James Black original was balanced/even, odd spacing you’ve chosen but it still works. This is a really nice knife and sheath and I appreciate you posting it. Kind regards, Gary LT
  22. The consumable brick I used as the forge floor had very little support across the bottom of the brick. The bottom corners were putting excess pressure on the liner and it kept cracking. So I put a layer of damp, buttered in satanite kaowool down to give the brick support and to level the forge floor. I also dampened and buttered long kaowool runners in satanite (1/2" x 20" or so) and firmly placed them against the brick and sidewall. The bricks are wrapped in wax paper so they hopefully come out leaving a nice channel for future bricks to occupy once the satanite is air dried. Once everything is flush to the bricks I plan to removed the brick, fire the forge to cure the satanite. Please oh great bladesmithing gods tell me I'm almost done with this never ending build.
  23. I never would have thought to use the cardboard to a paper pad to make the core of a sheath from. Great job all around. Doug
  24. Well ive recently got around to actually building a decent forge blower so nkw that i have the heat ill have to work on the neat. These past 6 months or so ive been working on my machining skills so i can actually build everything i need from scratch. Mostly so everything can be easily fixed on the spot instead of having to wait on parts. Ive built my own stick welder, fan and controls, tongs, ect. Next will definitely be a belt grinder and a small power hammer to deal with the tap tap tap of edge beveling and tang shaping. I have everything i need but free time hahahaha!
  25. Those look great. Checkering really does add a classy aspect to a knife, wish I was adept at it also. Clint
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