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  2. I didn't see it like that. You're right, cool!
  3. Try ebay for the particle accelerator. I'm sure cern have a few old models that they don't need
  4. I have soooo much to learn as far as blade types, time periods they existed and where they were made. This is going to be a good learning experience for me. I need to get some literature and start reading. I know there is a few good threads with links to online literature that I'm going to search for when I get home. Tomorrow I'm bolting the bench/vise stand to the floor. Maybe I will make a twisting jig? I seen a picture of yours @Zeb Camper I have to find where I seen it. I know I liked the idea!!!
  5. That's too cool! And this whole time I've been fumbling around trying to create the philosophers stone!
  6. Well, Alan , I've been to every knife making supplier website I can think of and haven't been able to find a particle accelerator, so guess I'm outta luck. Oh well, hour late and a dollar short.
  7. Wow! Such a clean finish. That birch burl is beautiful too. I like how the second picture makes the blade look transparent! That's cool.
  8. Awesome! First, what you may want to know; "viking" or scandanavian sax are spelled "sax"; "seax" is more of an Anglo-Anglo-saxon spelling. And, if you're not set up well enough to twist, I think a wrought San-mai or similar construction would totally be a breath of fresh air to contrast all the modern p-weld reconstructions. Add a fuller to it, and/or engraving, and/or some inlay, and it'd really stand out. As far as the twist goes, for a singlewide stack I prefer to twist 1/2" stock, then forge weld the threads down which brings it to 3/8" from there I make my stack. I do it like this because these were pretty thick at the spine anyway and it leaves room for error. If I where to do a double wide stack I would go half that size (which is a common construction). Some people get away with the thinner bars somehow, but I cant. If you want the twists higher up in the finished piece, you make the edge material thicker (taller, or whatever. Rectangular). Good luck man!!!
  9. You can turn lead into gold. All you need is a very large particle accelerator and a lot of patience. I seem to recall it took Fermilab a month of gentle proton bombardment to turn 1/10 gram or so of lead foil into radioactive gold...
  10. Good to see you back, Einar! VERY nice work!
  11. Latest attempt. Before and after touching up the profile. The forged hollow really makes straightening a challenge.
  12. you are going to have one very happy sister with that one. The burl is a beautiful compliment to the blade.
  13. REALLY??? Wow, that's something I need to learn about, I've been casting my own bullets for years and have a "ton" of the stuff. Send me the recipe!
  14. It's all alchemy! Has anyone turned lead into gold ??
  15. Just finished up this Santoku which will be a christmas present for my sister. Unfortunately I got some scratches on the blade during sharpening, so I'll have to polish those out later. 8.5" blade, 5" handle Thickness at the spine is a little less than 4 mm, or 5/32" The blade is a full flat grind on both sides, almost to a zero edge before sharpening. The steel is 115 CrV3 (also called Silversteel) I havent tested the hardness, but according to manufacturer should be 61-62 HRC with the tempering I used. The handle is burl from birch wood. sanded and oiled. I love the pattern in this wood. I sometimes stain my handles, but with this wood, I thought the natural colours were too nice to mess with. The spine and finger choil are rounded, very comfortable to use.
  16. Well, I hope all of you know I'm carefully taking notes on all of this. I mean, how else am I going to learn all this stuff. I realize there's supposedly a lot of hocus-pocus involved in knife makinig..........................but didn't realize it was all this mysterious. I'm closely watching this thread.
  17. Thick pieces of hardened, untempered steel can be deceptively tough. That's why it's usually recommended to forge unknown steel thin and then quench test. It's much easier to see if it will snap or bend. Glad it worked out for you.
  18. So if I quench as the sun rises and I face east, the suns gravity should pull my blade and make it longer! Science!
  19. Joel offers good advice, as usual. The spark test is almost impossible to do well with an angle grinder. It calls for a large-ish stone wheel grinder (or a belt grinder) running around 1350-1600 RPM for ease of seeing the actual pattern. Angle grinders at their smaller wheel size and much faster RPM tend to make a dazzling spray of sparks on whatever you're cutting. All I could tell was the mystery steel is alloyed more highly than the rebar, and a bit differently than the 5160. Could be 6150, often used for heavy truck springs, could be AR plate, used for the edge of road grader blades and such. 6150 is great, although hard to forge. AR plate is not good for blades or forging.
  20. What I'd do is use new known steels but if I was to use this steel I'd: Cut a few test coupons around 1/8" thick. Normalize at average carbon steel temperatures. Austenize at different temperatures around 1500°f. Grind the coupons flat and clean. Test hardness. Break all test coupons and examine grain. It may just be abrasion resistant steel like ar500.
  21. Hi all I was trying to do a spark test but got pretty similar results and was hoping I could get some help from the masters in the forum... So I found what I believe to be a piec of spring steel from a truck's suspension in the highway and brought it back to the shop and performed a spark test on it only to be more confused it. I've attached a video where you can see me performing the test. The first is 5160 steel The second is the steel I found on the highway The third is a piece of rebar. I would love to read your comments. Thanks! 20191207_130917.mp4
  22. Now that's a billet! I can tell you have a power hammer.
  23. And we have a billet. I'm going to cut and fold to get a little higher layer count. I need more charcoal before I go any further.
  24. It finally snapped, I forged a bit thinner and did a quick quench in water. A little tap with a hammer and it broke right in two.
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