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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
  2. 7 points
    Dear All, These Anglo Saxon inspired seaxes are finally finished for my wedding two months hence! Some of the WIP (before I broke my camera and had to push onwards) is on this thread: Enjoy! Comments and Criticism gratefully received. I have learnt a heck of a lot on this build, if I were to be making just one I am sure I could have done a much better job of it. However, since there were ten.... yes ten.... with a definite deadline I struggled to spend the extra hundred hours on the sheath required per piece! All in all, I'm happy with them and I'm sure their new owners will be too. A huge amount of thanks must go to Sam Ecroyd, without whom this would not have been possible! Cheers, James P.S. Sorry about the bits of stuff on the blades, didn't realise there was dust on them until I was editing!
  3. 7 points
    Just finishing this one up. 10 3/4" blade of 1095, carved burr elm handle with copper mounts, tooled leather sheath with copper fittings: let me know what you think...
  4. 6 points
    After all these years I finally made a knife for me. I made Pattern Welded blades for all my kids and grandkids for Christmas. Jackie insisted that the blades for my twins be made out of the same billet, as well as the blades for my two granddaughters in Texas, then I made a twisted pattern for my son and Jackie wanted one too. Then she decided that we should both have knives out of the same billet so here is my knife it is 48 layers of 15N20 and 1095 twisted 4 turns. I have made knives for me before and someone waved money in front of my nose and being the money grubber I am, I always took the cash. I don't know what would happen if someone offers me money for this one, it may result in my untimely demise . Anyway here it is for what it is worth, I left it laying around and the cats didn't bury it in the litter box so at least they think it is ok. The handle is pieces of Corain Counter Top with brass shims between the two colors.
  5. 6 points
    Here's rougly what I'm thinking. Kind of a mix of an old motif on a design that would be handy today. Sort of a chubby pukko meets lil' sax. Meant to be worn horizontally. Deeply etched blade, antler bolster, curly maple handle dyed with rust for a gray/brown color, black leather sheath with tooling and brass fittings I think. That or copper. I might do some carving depending on if the peice wants to be carved in the 3rd dimension.
  6. 5 points
    Hi All Gents Knife, 275 layer pattern welded bladeTotal length 24 cm, blade 13 cm.Goat horn handle capped with copper/silver mokume
  7. 5 points
    So this is the third sword I have started to make, and the first one I have finished. Completed this in 6 days at Matthew Parkinson's class here in Phoenix at Grizzly Ironworks. First up, a pic of all the swords from the class and the Damascus sword that Matt brought with him as a model. Mine is second from the front. The full shot. The handle/hilt And the pointy end.
  8. 4 points
    Hi All Little Pattern welded Bird and Trout knife275 layer blade, forged from the same billet as the previous knives.Total length 18.5 cm, blade 7.5 cmDeer antler handle capped with a shibuichi/ nickle silver ferrule/guard. The shibuichi looks like copper at the moment but will develop with time a silver grey patina. Richard
  9. 4 points
    Someone contacted me about creating as close to the original dirk he saw on an auction site. I was the only smith that said I would build it out of ivory like the original, other makers were pushing for plastic or antler. This is is a photo of the original. First thing I wanted to do was find a piece of ivory to use, a solid chunk of ivory that size is very hard to find, thankfully, I live in Alaska and have a great resource for legal ivory (both walrus and mammoth). I knew that mammoth was flat out not going to work, as most isn't solid enough and would require stabilizing. I found a nice piece of "fossilized" walrus tusk tip that was solid enough. It's just a little shy for size by a mm or two, I consulted with the client and he said he was okay with that as he understood the limitations with ivory sources and just as long as it still flowed. I did a rough sketch up to get a rough idea of lengths of materials. I chose 1095 for the blade steel, mainly because I was running low on my regular 5160 and wasn't in the mood for 01. I also figured 1095 would be a little closer to the original steel used. I don't really have any photos of the forging, but it was pretty fast and basic. No problems in the heat treat everything went pretty smoothly. The blade blank after HT and Cleanup, checking profile against the picture. I haven't added the small fuller, rounded the shoulders or done any finer detail work on it yet. Checking to make sure I'll actually have enough material to do the handle. This piece of ivory is gorgeous, with a nice dense dentin. Starting to lay in the shoulders. I don't have the best ventilation or mask, and also can't afford to mess up with this material, so I'm not using power tools at this point, and might not use them at all on this piece just to be safe and not ruining anything. And where I stopped last night.
  10. 4 points
    Finishing up another one of these. 1095, bog oak, bone, copper, silver and leather... let me know what you think...
  11. 3 points
    Gentlemen, I am going to attempt a WIP type post. I am making a pair of knives as gifts for friends who recently lost their job due to wonders of the corporate Jenga game. As you can see from my prior post I have been significantly influenced by the Scandinavian/Sami culture: Might have something to do with the 3 feet of snow in my yard at the moment, or might have had something to do with my walkabout to the northernmost parts of Norway, Sweden, and Finland way back when I was in highschool. Not to much else to say. I will just start in with the pictures. Here is my initial sketch. I live in a tiny (population 3kish) town, high in the mountains, set on the edge of pristine lake with multiple ski resorts nearby, seemingly endless wilderness, and many cabins out in the middle of nowhere (some of these "cabins" are multi-million dollar mansions, others are the more traditional, cozy cabin in the woods). I wanted to convey this kind of place in the knives. I am hoping to pull off a hand forged 80crv2 blade (even though I have little forging experience). Handle is reindeer antler, some stabilized koa I bought quite a while ago, and bolster/butt from an old wagon wheel I found hiking in the woods. Sheath is the same wood, possibly inlayed antler, and half-tan leather. I have worked on the blades some, but I don't have all the pictures put together yet, so I'm going to just start with this. My hope is I will learn a lot through this process, so please critique as I go along. I am also using this as a personal motivator, usually my knives take months and I want to get these done quickly so I figured the forum may keep me accountable. Adam
  12. 3 points
    Just finished another hunter... San-mai lamination, forge folded and twisted railroad steel for the body, and Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in burl Maple, with spacers in vulcanized fiber, brass and thick piece of copper. Working on the sheath, but RL job is taking up all my time. And yes... my logo is kind of big, still.. nothing has changed there. I am however - planning on perhaps having a new stencil made, without the square frame... Time will show... As usual, all feedback and critique is more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  13. 3 points
    Despite the temperature being the coldest day of the year so far, along with working on some orders I managed to get the frame tang completed for this Bowie. I made the frame tang from 4 pieces of 15N20 (1/16") that I filed along with 2 pieces of 1080 (1/8") that I cold blued.
  14. 3 points
    This one has a similar pattern though it was 4-wayed just once rather than twice:
  15. 3 points
    A friend asked me to make an antler or bone engagement ring for his fiancee. This is what I came up with - turned red deer stag's antler with carved celtic knotwork and a runic inscription, lined with sterling silver, and a box of burr elm with a poplar burl lid, which has a copper post hinge, thumb stud and detent: it's a nightmare to photograph, but let me know what you think...
  16. 3 points
    My life has been all over the map the last few months, I relocated my shop which shut me down for a month, and then I really needed to focus on film work. But the shop is back up and running and wanted to share a few pieces I've been working on. I also have a WIP dirk I'll try and update as I build it further out, I'll start a new thread for that. I've really missed cruising the forums and working, but life is finally settling back down into a normal routine (or as normal as my life gets). But I like sharing and showing work. Still trying to build a lot of skills. First up, some swords! Type XVI. 5160 blade, mild steel hilt, handle is popular core, cord wrapped with a dyed leather covering. Pommel is concave with a peen block. Hilt has a patina to mimic case hardening. Migration sword. This has a story behind it. I built this with patina in the handle to match the blade. I did the weapons for the braveheart follow up called "Robert the Bruce" starring Angus Macfayden, Jared Harris, Zach McGowan and Anna Hutchinson, this blade was a hero blade used in the film. I kept all the original patina and edge damage that it took during the fight sequences. The blade was retired and I rehilted it when I got home. Materials are brass and oak burl with a bronze pommel cap, handle is diver salvaged oak from Lake Superior (Thanks Scott Roush!), historical construction with rivets and the pommel cap riveted on over the peen. Swiss longsword, big ol' blade, but the star is the handle. Gentle S curve with leaf details filed in, pommel is hollow ground with a brass rosette, handle is holly and brass. Some daggers and knives: Puuko inspired knife, Low layer blade, rosewood handle, ivory and brass. Roman utility knife with mammoth ivory handle. Dirk with Claro walnut burl handle and brass A modern knife, my buddy in film wanted a California compliant fixed bladed knife that would be perfect for use on a film set. Did some file work on the top and bottom and gave it a nice mosaic pin.
  17. 3 points
    Hello all! Short tutorial: Prepearing material Forging to a size Carbutization 17 hours HT 290/7mm size
  18. 3 points
    Ok, I'm too excited about this to not share it. I'm working on my second attempt at mosaic pattern, and just got my first glimpse of the pattern. I'm kind of bouncing up and down like a kid at Christmas right now...
  19. 3 points
    Well I appreciate ya'll helping me out last fall so here's a brief update. I manage to get back on the project after the holidays and yep, 42 HRC is a might stiff for those springs. Might even be a bit to stiff for the weight that the pair will carry. The Cyclekart won't be running till spring, but with it down on all four now, I can put some weight on it and it doesn't give very much. Now that might be ok at 50 mph, and I'm gonna mount a GoPro up front when she's running so I can see how the springs are working. I'll be using/experimenting with a homebuilt version of the Hartford friction dampers that were typical back in the 20's before hydraulic shocks became the norm. Thanks again for the advice and ya'll have a great 2019. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
  20. 2 points
    My mother taught 7th grade English for nearly 40 years, I grew up with the concept. And an uncanny, if utterly useless, ability to diagram sentences.
  21. 2 points
    Got some grinding done. Let the blades soak overnight to get the scale off. I'll throw a spine view in so you can see the taper, the thickest part should be right at the transition between the blade and the tang. Then hit it with the grinder, this is just preliminary as the blade is not heat treated yet. The plunge lines traveled a little further up then I planned due to the thickness of the blade. I left the edge right at the magic "thickness of a dime" everyone talks about. Thanks for watching. Adam
  22. 2 points
    Bison leather and hand formed brass jump rings were used for my latest sheaths.
  23. 2 points
    I've been doing a little more digging and found this discussion http://www.penturners.org/forum/f43/drying-prior-stabilization-128782/ on a pen turning forum. One of the guys that chimes in is Curtis Seebeck from Turntex. It's always nice when you can get the advice straight from the horses mouth. It looks like the "generic" recommended process is to bake for 24 hours at 215 deg., store in a ziploc bag until cool, submerge in cactus juice and pull vacuum until all air bubbles cease to form, and then let sit submerged in the cactus juice off of vacuum for 24-36 hours before curing. Pretty straightforward, but definitely a lengthy process.
  24. 2 points
    Not too shabby! Socks with sandals is a no go for safety! Or ever lol! Just joking! So your heat treat methods need work. A magnet will only get you close. Look up "Decalescence" on your search engine ("decalescence site: bladesmithsforum.com"). This is what you should be watching for. When grinding, take material off the very edge first and work your way back to the spine. Never hand sand with your fingers on a blade. You get dips in the blade when you do that. Sand lengthwise using a hard backer for the sandpaper (such as a piece of angle iron clamped in a vice). Or with waterstones. Its smart to at least finish the front of the handle (nearest the blade) before attaching it permanently. You've got talent, but just need a little bit better process. Try these out and I'll bet your finished product will look much better. Hope this helps!
  25. 2 points
    That's remarkably similar to one of my ideas. Guess I'll have to go with the folding seax now.
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