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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hey everyone! I finished this piece a few days ago, so I took some photos and thought I would share! This began as a small billet for a demo at NESM for their annual hammer in, and upon finishing the blade a client signed onto the project, so I designed the hilt and we went from there! I still have to make the sheath, and when it's done I'll update this thread. The blade is seven bars of pattern weld, wrought iron on the spine, four twisted bars, more wrought iron, and then an edge of ~400 layers. The handle is moose antler, bog oak, silver, wrought iron, and rubies. I guess I'll do the usual and post a few finished photos and then a WIP! WIP time! So this piece started off as a billet about 8 inches long. I twisted everything extremely tight and laid up the wrought iron and edge bar. I tacked the billet on one end and brought it to Maine with me. I was invited to demonstrate on both days, and first gave a lecture on the historical seax and then did a practical demo the next day, forging a long seax. I then brought the blade to Zack Jonas' workshop a while after it was finished and began to work out what the design should be. Drawing from a few different artifacts I designed something that intrigued me. I used a few drill bits and a set of needle rasps to get the bolster fit properly. Here you can see the fit bolster next to the sawn bog oak and the drawing I made for the client. I used the needle rasps to file and clean up the slot for the tang to seat in the wood properly which is a new trick, I promptly went and bought my own set after! That's as far as I got at Zack's, and upon returning home I began to shape the handle. I always do my rough shaping on the belt grinder to establish the lines I am after and then use files or sandpaper to refine the shape. In this case I am going for a slight hourglass shape and need to do some careful firework to establish my lines. After about an hour the work is done and I can polish to about 400 grit in preparation for the rest of the detailing. At this point I figured I would set the half moon shape on the bolster as per my design. I did this freehand on the grinder and then polished with some paper on a flat surface. Here you can see there is a slight inletting in the edge side of the bolster to allow the blade to sit better. I used a jewelers saw to begin the cuts for the silver wire and then a series of files and rasps to make the recess for the wire. After some epoxy and a few wracked nerves the silver is in place. I couldn't remember what size bezel wire I had used in the past on the amber seax, but I did some experimenting and figured it out. Here's the piece next to the scaled up drawing I made to keep with me as I was working. I think I'll start doing this more in the future. I cut out the piece of fine silver and annealed it, then bent it to shape on the back end of the bog oak grip, and because it was so soft it readily accepted its new shape. I took some nice wrought iron I had and cut a small coupon off and drilled and filed a hole to fit it to the tang. My original thought was to make the pommel just a cap and not be held on by the tang, but Peter convinced me I should weld an extension to the tang and peen the pommel on. Here I am using sharpie to get a vague idea of where I should grind to. I never really do this sort of work with a caliper and exact measurements, instead using my eye to get things close. I may change this some day and do more exact work, but for the style of work I do I feel that this gives my work a more 'organic' nature. I roughed in the shape on the grinder and then drilled my holes. I probably would change the order of operations next time. Once the pommel was roughly fit I began to tune the shape with files. Eventually I ended up with this. I began to peen the bezels in place from the inside to hold them properly. I did all of the setting work before attaching to the handle so I could burnish all the way around easily. Once the rubies were set I peened the whole thing together after administering some epoxy. Here you can see the peen isn't cleaned up yet. After some careful belt grinding and 2000 grit paper to clean the peen up, I went out back behind the shop to take some photos! I hope that's helpful or at least informative, thanks for looking guys!
  2. 4 points
    Pattern welded carving knife, I started this a very long time ago but I was never happy with the handle so I decided to make another one to fit it. Only a dozen layers, total length 32.5 cm (12.75 inch) blade 20 cm (8 inch) Handle is stabilised New Zealand mountain beech With gilding metal fittings.
  3. 3 points
    Hi All, Another one done, juts working on sheath and then final edge 20180930_210249.mp4
  4. 3 points
    Hi guys, just finished up this piece: Stats: Overall length: 87cm Blade length: 72cm Blade width at base: 4.7cm PoB: 13cm CoP: ca 46cm weight: 905g This handy little sword is based on late medieval XVIII single handers. Wide and thin bladed, with acute edges and a fine point, it offers excellent cutting and thrusting capabilities. Though stiff enough to be used in armored combat, it is at its best in unarmored fighting, ideally in combination with a buckler. The low overall weight combined with a very pleasant balance make this a very agile weapon. From an aesthetic point of view, clear ridges and sweeping curves dominate. The guard tapers to almost sharp ends, mirroring the wide and thin blade. The blade is of diamond cross section, with the central ridge following on through the handle. The fire blackened fittings and dark red leather give the sword a somewhat sinister appereance. I'm quite happy with it, I hope you like it, too Cheers, Lukas
  5. 3 points
    Gerhard, Zeb, and others on this sometimes treacherous journey, I hope you find some peace, comfort and ultimately healing and joy.
  6. 3 points
    Hi guys, her my and my son raphael ( 11 years ) stand at the medeval market. Its the 4. year my son sell flint stones, firesteel and tinder fungus. He make all him self. With the money he earn, he can make wath he want. He love do that. [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Ruggero
  7. 3 points
    Hi All Here is another one, Hunter, Mosaic Damascus from the same billet as the previous one, Giraffe Bone ( thank you Jerry Mcclure, Capped with fittings I hand manufacture from old bronze NZ coins, total length 23.5 cm (9.4 inch) blade 12 cm ( 4.8 inch) I am planning to take this one to the Auckland Blade Show Oct. 6 &7 New Zealand
  8. 3 points
    I got the tiles welded and got my first look at the pattern. There are some white lines at the welds but those are from carbon loss and will come out with carbon migration during the forging & normalizing. All in all, I think that it should make a good looking dagger blade.
  9. 3 points
    Now to rivet the saddle to the back spring. This is the snap rivet tool held in the vice. The groove on the back of the spring here is to help the blade track nice and true when opening and closing the knife. Now to clean the blade up with successive finer grits of abrasive. The bucking bar here is used to support the antler taper and hold the rivet in place which will attach the back spring to the handle. This is the only place where the back spring is physically attached to the handle. The saddle is riveted to the back spring and then the saddle is pinned to the sides of the handle, this creates more support closer to the pivot point of the blade and adds more pressure when opening and closing the knife. If you look closely at the lower picture you'll see that the inside of the antler is shiny that's because I apply super glue to the inside surfaces of the antler where any soft pith is still present. It just hardens any of these areas and will make the inner part of the handle less susceptible to water or moisture ingress. Everything is now coming together quite nicely. The rivets which hold the saddle in place are dry fitted and then marked and then cut to length so they do not protrude into the groove where the blade sits and cause any obstruction. They are then re-fitted with a little super glue to make sure they don't come out. Here are the final pic's of the completed knife plus a rustic style sheath made so the customer can wear his knife on his belt. I hope you've enjoyed the WIP guys and thank you again Alan for pinning it to the board.
  10. 3 points
    A better look at the forged blades. All wrapped handles. The cleavers are 5160, the rest are 80CrV2. The hemp wraps were torched prior to being impregnated with epoxy. Sheaths are Boltaron. Especially with the cleavers, I've been working on getting closer to the final shape with my power hammer, Gunnhilda. The cleavers in particular only had hand forging to straighten them. The power hammer die texture on those has not been smoothed over with a hand hammer as I usually do. Just an area of skill I'm currently working on refining. It's been a while, so any dimensions mentioned below will be approximate. Carcass splitter with an 18" blade, 22" handle. bladeshow15 by James Helm, on Flickr Carcass splitter with a 15" blade, 14" handle. bladeshow18 by James Helm, on Flickr Bush sword, about 15" blade. bladeshow16 by James Helm, on Flickr The first ginunting I've made, about a 15" blade. I'm working on my second one right now for inventory for Blade Show West. bladeshow17 by James Helm, on Flickr. This carcass splitter was my reaction to seeing what challenges were on the first episode of "Knife or Death" on the History Channel. I call it "The Mutant". Approximately a 14.5" blade, 14" handle. The "spine" side is sharpened with a stout convex edge that is frighteningly sharp. The idea being that the main edge would work for most of the cutting tasks, while the convex edge is reserved for particularly damaging tests such as buckets of gravel and huge ice blocks. I think of the design as a hybrid fusion of a carcass splitter and a Nepalese ram dao. It balances on the heavy side for plenty of inertia, but is still nimble and *very* powerful! This was one of the blades that caught Tu Lam's attention. bladeshow12 by James Helm, on Flickr I initially tried to build a normal Boltaron sheath, but saw that the chances of grievous harm to the sheather was high, so ended up turning it into a split sheath. bladeshow13 by James Helm, on Flickr The cleaver hole is centered on the blade instead of offset toward the spine, which made me think of a Cyclops and contributed to its name. bladeshow14 by James Helm, on Flickr While this particular carcass splitter was not forged until after the Blade Show, it was requested by a repeat customer after the other short carcass splitter got picked up by Filthy Mitch at the show. He was really hoping it would make it through the show so he could buy it, so I ended up making him one as close to the one he had liked. carcasssplitter02 by James Helm, on Flickr carcasssplitter03 by James Helm, on Flickr I'm currently working on inventory for Blade Show West coming up the first weekend in October in Portland, OR. It'll be my first time in the Pacific Northwest, and I'm looking forward to it. Only one table this time, and all of the inventory is forged work.
  11. 2 points
    Hi Gents I'm just putting the finishing touches to this Custom Nakiri, it has a blade from 80Cr V2 (1080+), the blade is 3mm thick on the spine, 175mm long with a full flat grind, the overall length of the knife is a tad over 300mm. The blade was coated with clay and differentially hardened, it's the first time I've tried to get a hamon in 80Cr V2 and I'm really happy with the results. I have to say that I'm starting to fall in love with this steel, it's a pleasure to work with, heat treats easily and gives a lovely finished blade. There's one nickel silver spacer with a black resin bolster which has foil cast into it. The handle is my own hybrid wood of stabilised oak burr cast in white Alumilite resin. This handle was the other piece left from the Santoku I posted on here a while back. Everything is held in place with one mosaic pin and the whole package weighs in at 194g. Thank you for taking the time to look, all comments and critique very welcome as ever. Steve
  12. 2 points
    Good day people, After a long and well deserved vacations “I AM BACK” (Schwarzenegger-like voice in Terminator) I am back to the business and today I bring two you two new folding knives of my recent creations. The first one is a deer stag antler handled folding knife with a straight point and a beautiful cooper incrustation on the blade. This blade of 9 cm length is elegant and functional. The idea behind this folding knife is to break with the curved pattern of almost every Spanish folding knife. The second one is a mini-carraca folding knife, a classic and small folding knife with a deer stag handle and a 8,2 cm blade. This Sevillian like folding knife comes with a carraca, so it cuts like a demon and sounds like an angel, a classic piece which I love to show my colleagues while lunching together and leave them with their mouths open. I hope you like them guys :D. Here a few links if you would like to see more (thanks in advance guys :D) Straight folding knife: https://artesaniaherreros.es/en/producto/straight-point-folding-knife-made-from-dear-stag-antler-handle/ Sevillian carraca: https://artesaniaherreros.es/en/producto/sevillian-carraca-folding-knife-deer-stag-antler-handle/ My catalog: (Since last time there are at least 6 new designs so be my guest!) https://artesaniaherreros.es/en/shop/ Video of the straight blade folding knife: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJSwrxjFicg Video of the Sevillian carraca: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-S97fAsPbM *Edit: removing images of the bottom*
  13. 2 points
    Do more with less is a great adage; i would add that in a world full of disposable things, and people who do not know how things work, there are a lot of good things thrown away that can be repurposed, to accomplish with work what money can't buy. (wow, long sentence, but i did more with only one sentence )
  14. 2 points
    I have extremely limited experience with this stuff and I think I've see the first video before (won't load at work). I just watched the bamboo one (well, skimmed through it because it was a lot of wasted footage) and I have to agree with Alan. I think the centrifugal fan replaced the mechanical bellows largely because a mechanical advantage could be applied to the drive, thus lowering the input energy and increasing the output air flow. Neither of these two guys used that technology. In all fairness to the "primitive skills" genre of boobtube videos, they are not trying to recreate the technology from a historical perspective. They are trying to apply modern knowledge to survival skills should the apocalypse happen. It's the lack of knowledge in the progression of the technology that makes them fall short. The resultant lump of stuff that came out of those furnaces looks remarkably like iron or steel to the ignorant eye. It also looks remarkably like the lump of stuff that came out of my first remelt attempt, and like the stuff that Mark Green lets flow out of his furnaces to consolidate on the ground and be cast aside as slag. While these lumps could make a nice pinging sound when knocked against a rock, I would never even think of trying to create a tool out of them, let alone a weapon. Unless of course I planned on really trying to figure out how the human race used their first attempts at smelting to make a weapon's tech advance.
  15. 2 points
    I do hidden tang knives almost exclusively, and people have questioned the strength many times. I finally tested several of my pieces, without handles. I took a 6.5 inch blade with a 1/4 x 3/8 x 4 inch tang and bolted that into a 3 foot piece of pipe. I then used a full overhead, two handed, swing into the end grain of a log. I broke one tang at mid tang where a bolt pinched the tang, and I bent the tang right at the shoulder on the second one. Both tangs were dead soft and both were nearly square transitions into the ricasso. The truth is, I've never broken a knife at this point, and I've never seen one broken there. I have several observations. 1) I have taken to cutting the tang/ricasso shoulders after HT (particularly on my larger pieces), which probably puts less stress on that area. 2) I leave the tang and ricasso soft, usually. Again, on the bigger knives more than small ones. 3) It doesn't hurt to leave some meat right where the tang and ricasso meet, the shoulders only need to be 1/8th wide or so. 4) Test some of your own work and don't be gentle. Really try to break one. That will give you a lot of confidence in a hidden tang. Geoff
  16. 2 points
    I have only smelted with electric blowers, so no hands-on experience with these guys' techniques. I hate to sound like one of those ignorant youtube commenters, but here is my (non-ignorant, I hope) take on it: The first guy's setup would certainly work for a very small furnace, say around a gallon capacity, capable of producing unconsolidated bloom bits in 1.5-2 hours, based on my experience with the Aristotle furnace. I have serious doubts about the wickerwork one. /begin youtube rant mode/ I find it interesting that both of these "primitive" guys are using a modern idea (the centrifugal blower) instead of the actual primitive tech that has been proven to work for thousands of years. Bag bellows, single or double-acting bellows, Japanese-style box bellows, even the piston-type blowing engine (itself similar to the bamboo tube pump bellows used in southeast Asia) common in the late 18th-early 19th centuries. These all preceded centrifugal blowers, they all did the job well, and all could be built and operated by a single person if need be. If you're going to try to do something, it pays to know how it used to be done. I yawn in their general direction. I mean, with all that bamboo, dude #2 could have easily rigged a pair of single-acting tube pumps in far less time than it took him to try to engineer something that never existed. His own iron-age ancestor would have had the bamboo tube-bellows ready to go before he himself had gotten the second hole drilled in his fan shaft. /rant mode off/.
  17. 2 points
    Been a while since I posted - been busy starting a business and upgrading the shop! First, fun pictures of smiling students and their work: I've been teaching full time about a year now and thought it was time to step things up a level. Expanded my area and finally have it's confines clearly defined so I can settle in. Still tweaking things, but I am very happy so far, the flow is much better. Now I feel comfortable offering teaching opportunities for my fellow bladesmiths interested in vising us in The Big Apple. If this sounds like fun to you please reach out to me for more information on how this would work. Local Brooklynite bladesmiths Jim Merola, Jan Muchnikov, and Justin Kirck have already started their classes Lastly, the front hallway/entrance to the forge has been turned into a small gallery of student, teacher, and local bladesmiths to show off their wares. I want to include work from anyone interested in displaying their blades - we get lots of eyes on them via walk-ins and students. I do not plan on selling blades for other smiths, but send lots of cards for people to take so I can help arrange sales. Currently it's just the 3 cases (bolted to the table), but I am picking up some sword sized as well. And here are a couple fun personal and commissioned blades: Always looking for input on everything, Theo
  18. 2 points
    3 acres is a nice chunk of land. You could build all sorts of stuff there and still have enough room for a good sized food plot. Nice having the wooded area right on the line too. As we used to say back east...….Mazel Tov!
  19. 2 points
    Here are a few more pic's to be going on with. This is just one of the adapted saws that I use to cut the groove into the taper. And the u-shaped clamp in use. Milling in the nail nick. A piece of leaf spring being cut which will be forged and used for the external back spring. A wooden template made so I can see that the shape of the spring matches the antler handle. Getting there. Dry fit up.
  20. 2 points
    Hi All Here is another one. Hunter, Mosaic Damascus, Deer Antler, Capped with fittings I hand manufactured from old bronze coins, total length 26 cm (10.4 inch) blade 14.5 cm ( 5.8 inch) Was planning to take this one to the Auckland Blade Show on Oct 6 & 7, New Zealand, I finished on Friday and sold it on the Saturday. Cheers Richard
  21. 2 points
    I've got a couple of new pieces, all of them are outside my usual big pointy thing. First, a clip point hunter. Forged 80crv2, full tang, elk slabs. 10" OL, BL 5". Next a B&T, L6, bronze, stag, sculpted copper cap, and a turned NS pin. OL 9", BL 4 3/4" Last, a rustic hobo, Damascus, elk, NS pins This is a bit of a sneak. The idea for me dates back to 2013 https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/28257-folding-knives/ The fork is all me, but makes sense to me. OL 9, BL 3 1/8th". I've been trying to make some smaller stuff. It's not less work, but it's a nice change of pace. Geoff
  22. 2 points
    Boat still sitting below the tide-line waiting to be floated .
  23. 2 points
    Hi all, here my newest seax for a customer. Blade from Ondrej, wrought iron and ? . 180mm long, 28mm high by the handle and 5mm thick. Handle from stabilized red coral, bone and brass. The customer wanted a turned one ( viking sign for lake ) on the blade. The sheath he make him self. [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Ruggero
  24. 2 points
    Just returned from a two week NOLS packhorsing course in the mountains of Wyoming. Four days training up and ten days riding.
  25. 2 points
    I got bored after the football game ended yesterday so I went to the shop. I got a handle roughed out of a nice piece of fossil walrus that I picked up at The Central States Show as well as getting a pommel turned out of some 416:
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