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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

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Showing most liked content since 06/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 likes
    Made this as a custom order several months ago, the customer even sent a detailed wood model to use as a guide. 14" random pattern Damascus, I think somewhere around 250 layers of 1084/15N20. Guard and screw on pommel from about 50 layers. Havn't made many daggers and this one is definitely the largest. Customer wanted to wrap the handle in leather so I went with a plain cocobolo wood - I think it would have looked awesome with African blackwood. Thanks for looking, Clint
  2. 5 likes
    Hi all, here my last Knife. A custom. Blade from Ondrej. 190mm long, 27mm high by the handle and 6mm thick by the handle. Handle from caucasien walenut, with brass fittings. [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Ruggero
  3. 4 likes
    A half hour vid of how I forge a blacksmiths knife...
  4. 4 likes
    Just finishing this one up. 4 3/8ths" blade of 1095, 1/8th" thick, differentially hardened, with some subtle alloy banding brought out by a deep etch. Sculpted composite steel and copper guard. Bogoak handle carved with celtic knots, and inlaid with engraved silver escutcheons. Copper butt plate, bail and ring, and pins. Hand stitched leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  5. 4 likes
    Hey! I've been trying to make the KITH work every year I've been doing this so far, and this one actually worked!I forged a knife blade the other day and then spent some time trying to figure out what I should do with the handle. I saw JJ a few days ago and he told me I should do a frame handle, so I did. This has been a lightning fast build for me, with about 8 hours total in so far. All that is left is a quick hand buff of the handle and it is ready to ship out. I got some maple and walnut ground to thickness first, real good way to chew up your fingers on a belt! Cut the frame out of the maple, nice fit though I left room for epoxy. Starting the glue up I wrapped everything in hemp cord to cure Nice and blocky! Its ergonomic right?! Started bandsawing the excess material off to make my grinding easier and quicker. Look at those racing stripes! From the belt grinder Polished up to 1000 before assembly! You can't really get a feel for the wood here, but it looks pretty wonderful oiled
  6. 4 likes
    Hello: Here's another "whippit" I did in some down time during one of my bladesmithing classes as an extra for my students that was held this weekend...So this is a REALLY FRESH one!! Dunno what to call it..I just went with the flow...welded cable with some SS HT foil thrown in...Recurved blade with a "Kiliq" tip with a single fuller on each side...Bos Taurus ivory grip with phosphor bronze bolster and pommel plates... It just looks WICKED.. Feels great in the hand and it cuts like a deamon! Turned out OK for a old hammer head like me... JPH
  7. 4 likes
    Here's one that I just got finished. The blade is a mosaic of my own design. The handle is mastodon ivory with 416 fittings and a nickel silver pommel.
  8. 4 likes
    Thanf you George! The knife is finished now, and offered in knives for sale I must make one correction: the handle is ash, not curly maple... stupid me!
  9. 4 likes
    Hi guys I have just finished this one up. Its a japanese inspired petty knife hand forged by me.Steel:Hitachi Shirogami (white steel) number 1 laminated with SUS 410 stainless with pure nickel in between them.Blade:~4.375" long featuring a full distal taperHandle:~4.25" Wa handle featuring old growth mahogany bolster paired with beautiful light colored ringed gidgee This blade is wicked sharp and has a rounded choil and spine. I also took time to chamfer the sharp edges on the front of the handle and round the back of the handle. The blade was hand finished to 800 grit and etched to show the frosty mountain-like scenery in the blade caused by the carbon diffusion between the stainless jacket and high carbon core steel. The handle was finished to 2500 grit, buffed, rubbed with teak oil, and finally finished with paste wax.ASKING $300 Thanks for checking this out guys. If you have any questions feel free to ask. Now for some pictures.
  10. 4 likes
    It is coming along slowly, yet steadily. I am already dreaming of fish monsters and acanthus leaves Here you can see the tools I mostly use: Fine files and the graver The more parts that come together, the worse you can reach most spots with the tools, that takes a huge toll on the invested time. It is important to get as much finished before welding as possible. However, the fine surface finish has to come last...
  11. 4 likes
    The Forged in Fire contestants who were at Blade Show got together for a group photo. There were a lot of us!
  12. 4 likes
    Here is my latest finished sword,I have been trying to make more swords! The sword is by me and the scabbard is by Tod. Off on hols for a week and then into a couple of very intensive Teaching months....so unlikly to be much new stuff from me for a little while....although I do still have a few things nearly finished! The blade is patternwelded in a romanoceltic pattern with lines running up the middle and a 200 layer edge that is welded at the tip. The handle is made from boxwood and the guard and pommel are walnut with brass fittings (and a couple of copper rivets on the peening block.) ] The scabbard is brass and decorated pewter over a poplar core and has been made by Tod from Tod’s Stuff.
  13. 4 likes
    Not much progress, I even wonder if I should show all of those small steps Anyway, I have a question this time. I've used walnut wood for the handle. It is quite dark after oiling, but I think of even deeper, more blackish colour. Could you advise me what is the best way to stain such wood? I still want it to look natural. If there is a good historically correct method I would prefer using it instead of a modern one. BTW I also finished a small kitchen knife. It is AEB-L, stabilized wood + carbon pins, but the shape is strongly inspired by medieval finds Not worth a separate thread, I am just adding one photo here
  14. 3 likes
    Hi guys, time for a new project A good Messer should be on the list of every HEMA enthusiats and also every sword maker. The tricky aspect about these pieces is the hilt assembly, it really takes a lot of careful work to get all parts to fit together well (regular swords are much easier). I have experimented with this when making the Rugger and I think I'm ready to tackle a full size Langes Messer now. This Messer isn't based on one original but rather takes several aspects that I like from multiple originals as well as Messer shown in fencing treatises, such as the double clip point (Paulus Kal). The proportions are what I consider pretty ideal for Messer fencing in the Liechtenauer tradition, a 71cm blade with an overall size of 88cm. Here is the profiled blank next to the full-size drawing: Stay tuned and Happy Easter!
  15. 3 likes
    All parts almost done
  16. 3 likes
    Good evening everyone! This is the latest knife I am making, and I´d like to share the process with you I decided to focus more on making knives as a whole, not only blades. That is not to say I am stopping blades, but I deffinitely want to finish more pieces It all started with me having a blade I really liked, and a piece of curly maple: I really wanted to do something in Urnes style which... I didn´t Somehow I am always drawn to the Ringerike style! In this case, the brooch below, particulary the beast portraited there, caught my eye... And so it began... I am still uncertain as to what the animal is, but for me, it resembles a wolf... I started drawing it, to get the details as close to the original as I am able. I changed one thing - I really didn´t like the legs of the beast in the brooch, so I looked at other ringerike animals and changed them a littlebit... Also, I tuned the tail a bit so that it fits the frame of the handle better: I decided to carve the beast first, it being the most difficult for me to carve, and therefore the most likely to be ruined. So, if there should be a ruinage, i wanted it to be as close to the beginning of the handle as possible... but, everything seems okay (well, there are always the little things that bug you, aren´t there ) and i finished the main carving just as the sun was setting... I found it rather poetical... and then I remebered a story from Northern Mythology, about a warg who chases after the sun, named Sköll. The dusk came, and the warg appeared in the handle... I ensnared it! No more chasing the sun, now it will serve the user of the knife! I apologize for the bad uality of the last shot... Well, I wanted to make sure that Sköll will not break out of his prison, so I added cage around him (also, there is a flattened and ground piece of wrought I intend to use for a buttcap): And this is where I finished today - now I am grinding micrometer after micrometer so that the buttcap fits as well as possible . Yeah, I could have done it before the carving, but I was never much of a planner : Goodnight!
  17. 3 likes
    Great result! The only tip I can give for a future blade is to move the belly of the cutting edge more towards the front. So keep the edge in a downwards line fairly straight, and have it curve back upwards further near the tip. If you look at these examples, you can see that the lowest point of the cutting edge is usually within the last 1/3rd of the blade near the tip end.
  18. 3 likes
    Yes, his video is what actually motivated me to go out and do it. N.b. make sure you've got everything set up and ready for when you start mixing, so you don't have to find something to stir with when you add the sulfur And be aware of unpleasant fumes. It was even more fun to do it in my Viking forge, using correct crucibles etc. If I can get some more sulfur I might do a video of the process as I did it. Then I'd be a bit more prepared, so it looks like I know what I'm doing, rather then me stumbling along in half panic, even though that would look more entertaining
  19. 3 likes
    Today I made niello, I think I followed Theophilus, using a silver/copper/lead ratio of 4:2:1, and a good amount of sulfur. It came out quite grey rather then black, but I see that the niello on a lot of medieval artifacts is grey as well. Now I need to get around to applying it.
  20. 3 likes
  21. 3 likes
    This week I did a 40 hour class at the New England School Of Metalwork taught by Seth Gould. Look his work up. Its well worth it. The theme of the class was fine bench tools. We made punches, scribes, bench hammers, and dividers. I also made a set of calipers. I was unable to upload the picture of the hammer. I hope you guys enjoy the rest.
  22. 3 likes
    Here is the next video - watch me screw it up :-(
  23. 3 likes
    also didnt want to bump and older post but i finished a saya for it and shipped it out today. Poplar, apple wood retaining pin
  24. 3 likes
    thanks Jarrod. This is the pic of it at the prelininary assembly stage.
  25. 3 likes
    Hi everyone, I guess its been a few years since I've really posted anything here. I still read the forum pretty frequently and thought I'd just check in with some knives I've just finished up and sent to their new owners. I don't know how my future in bladesmithing is going to look at this point since I just graduated from college with a degree in Metallurgical Engineering and I'm interviewing for jobs around the country. I don't know when I'll be able to start building, both literally and figuratively, a good space to work in again, but I definitely want to keep exploring the craft. I have been lucky to have a few really good repeat customers. The first two knives are going to the same guy, and he really makes sure to put knives through their paces, so these are made with that in mind. He gave me a lot of freedom with the design but stipulated that I not go to crazy with the ornamentation this time The first is kind of a medium sized belt knife and the second is a pretty large seax. My ability to grind a really good edge for a given task is still improving, but I got lucky on the seax and it's an incredible cutter. Its flat ground with a convexed edge. The kind that's razor sharp out of sanding. The polishing also revealed a broad/active auto-hamon, which for me has been a sign of an excellent heat treat. Its tough to see in the photo because I chose not to emphasize it in the finishing. Both blades are 1095 with beeswaxed veggie tanned leather. I tried and adding glue in addition to stitching to the seams this time and really liked the result. Very smooth sheath/welt transition. The fittings are wrought iron, and grips are stacked birch bark and figured crepe myrtle (might be my favorite handle material) from a tree I cut several months ago. I force-dried a few split sections in my kitchen oven for immediate use. Right around the lip of the sheaths, I like to make an even line of waxed surface that extends into the interior of the sheath, a detail I've really enjoyed making. (The leather button belt loop construction method is a Nate Runals rip off. First time trying it.) The last knife is a small patternwelded seax with walnut and Cu grip and bolster for a friend's nephew. Tooling on the sheath was basically graphic-designed on the fly, which can be fun sometimes. Cu sheath fittings.
  26. 3 likes
    Well got the blade all finished, all that's left is a hand sharpening on stones but gonna wait till it's ready to go out for that. Left the blade with a matte finish but there is a hamon in there sitting above the weld line on the mild steel, its neat being able to see the carbon migration! The way the tang was forged it was kicked a little up and would normally have it flat with the spin but it sits nicely in the hand and is wanted to kill some veggies!
  27. 3 likes
    This is a knife I just finished up as a thank you gift for a family that took one of my kids with them on a really nice vacation. The pattern development was a total bust, but overall the knife came out pretty nice. It is 1095 and 15N20. The blade is 8" long and the overall length is 13". It has a full flat grind all the way through the tang, and I took it down to about 0.012" thick before sharpening. The handle is stabilized redwood burl with brass bolsters and red spacer. I was bummed about the pattern, but I was trying to wing a multi-bar twist by the seat of my pants while at the forge. I didn't twist it enough, and the twists were horribly uneven. I should have known better than to try to pull something like that off on the fly. However the grind on this knife was spot on, and it is as straight as a laser. It also feels like a real kitchen knife, which is something my other attempts have lacked. Adding the brass bolsters really helped the weight and balance. It's pretty sharp. One of my kids asked if it was sharp yet, (her favorite question when I am working on knives) so I nonchalantly swiped it down the side of my calf, and a big clump of leg-fur fell on the floor Sorry about the ugly vignetting on the photos. I'm playing with Photoshop, and struggling...
  28. 3 likes
    Man, this is a great WIP. Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to record the process.
  29. 3 likes
    CdP: Ok..to answer your questions: SLTT :Stuff Like That There.. On the game warden... Way back in the late 1970's early 1980's when I first started using "Bovine Ivory" it got a lot of interest but when the folks asked what it was and told them cow bone..they just sighed and looked a bit disappointed so I had to come up with something that sounded "better" than a old beef bone.. Marketing ya know... So I coined the term "Bovine Ivory"..and well...for the stuff I "fossilize" that is Bos Taurus Ivory...them being such an ancient critter... So anyway,,,I was at the Los Angeles "Great Western Gun and Knife show" was spread out across of my very good friend and partner in numerous escapades and schemes, the late Bob Engnath..He had some of his beautiful scrimshaw on display as well as his usual stuff from the "House of Muzzle-loading" out in Glendale, CA...I was still in the DEA back then. So here I was with a wide assortment of stuff with the Bovine Ivory on it and a very young Calif. Game Warden comes up and asks Bob for the documents for his ivory pieces... He shows them... Now Bob being Bob he decided that my life was a bit too peaceful so he tells the kid that I have a table of Bovine Ivory that is fresh and undocumented...So I get approached and asked for documents/. I told him that they aren't needed..we argued and not once did the warden ask what the material was..and I didn't tell him... This all ended up with my pieces confiscated, me in hand cuffs, my smith and Wesson 659 confiscated (he didn't find my creds which was odd but once he found my sidearm he stopped looking)... and Bob and his wife Stevie laughing their hiennies off..along with several other makers that were around watching...So young John Law gets on his radio and calls for his super...who shows up a few moments later.. Now Bob Engnath knew him and explained what was happening and the guy went dead white... Now I was thinking and adding up how much lucre I will be getting from the State of California for false arrest, kidnapping and a bunch of other charges cause they have a Game Warden that can't tell beef bone from ivory...well once the Super get over to us he starts to apologize and then my wife hits him with my DEA creds..and the kid goes white... Needless to say I wasn't arrested and all my goods and weapon were returned at that moment and the super had a long, deeply informative talk with the youngster...... Now I did have a long talk with Bob though...he wound up buying us dinner that weekend to make ammends.. I still miss that man.. So that's what happened.. JPH
  30. 3 likes
    Hello everyone, Some people might have seen this thread about a knife design, now I have made a prototype of it. I experienced many "first times" while making this one: I made mosaic pins for the first time, I used them on a handle for the first time, I tried a simple handle sculpting, and I made a type of sheath I had not done before. Also, as stupid as it sounds, I have never made a drop point blade before. But enough of my words, here is my result:
  31. 3 likes
    The difference between hamon and a hardening line is one of width and structure. Hamon has a wide zone of mixed structures between fully hard and fully soft that gives that billowing feathery look that can be polished white, and has subtle gradations above and below the "line" like the things called nioi and utsuri as shown here: That is not mine, I borrowed it from the "I want to see your hamon" thread. See all that's going on in there? And in this one: Sorry for the hijack, Chad, and no disrespect intended! I just went into teacher mode for a bit... Anyway, there you go.
  32. 3 likes
    Hello gentlemen! So, I finished it today I pre-dremeled the lines, just to have it drawn (I don ´t like using pencil) and then I carved everything by hand using a V-chisel I patinized the whole handle, and then sanded it... the dye created a bit of a blurry effect, which makes, at least in my eyes, look it a bit older... Please, tell me your thoughts!
  33. 3 likes
    A word or three to the wise on that trough forge: Use charcoal. Much more forgiving and faster to use than coal. I have heat-treated all my long blades in a charcoal trough. Well, trench in the flowerbed, but same idea. Two sets of tongs, one to grab the tang and one to support the middle of the blade when lifting it out. Practice the motion of getting a smooth lift and quench before the blade is hot. This will show you where the danger zones are for putting a bend in a hot blade. Finally, double-edged blades must be quenched vertically. Plan accordingly.
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    Hi Guys, here the last knife for the medieval market this weekend. Blade from old agricultue machine blade. 110mm long, 27mm high and 2.8mm thick. Etched. Handle from red deer antler tip. [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Ruggero
  36. 2 likes
    Hello! I apologize profusely for the novel that is about to come, I promise I won't be offended if you skip to the pictures I recently graduated from Hampshire College in Massachusetts. Instead of Freshman, Sophomore, etc, students are divided into Division I, II, and III. The first year you take a broad set of unrelated classes, and throughout your middle two years you hone in on something interesting you want to study. Your last year, Division III, is spent working on a thesis project that should be the culmination of the last three years of work and study, producing something wholly new, wether it is a long paper, an experiment, a novel, a play, etc. I have spent the last few years at Hampshire exploring bladesmithing, history, mythology, material culture, and how it all intersects now-a-days. When I arrived there I had never put hammer to anvil, but with some guidance from Elias Sideris and Don Dupuis, I began down the Way. Eli’s work was influenced by the Norse aesthetic, drawing from historical sources as well as wellsprings of artistic inspiration both new and old. I began researching, reading, and looking, and through other artists, like Jake Powning and Petr Florianek, I began to fall in love with that style of work. The seax and the sword captivated me and I began working to unravel their secrets and learn the proportions and geometries that make them be. I began to study Old Norse and the Icelandic Sagas and eventually became enchanted with the poem Beowulf. I first read it in high school and while I enjoyed it, I didn’t know anything about the poem below the surface. I began studying with Professor Craig Davis at Smith College who is a wonderful Beowulf scholar and knows the poem and its intricacies forward and backwards. He agreed to take me on in an independent study examining the use of weaponry in the poem. I began by isolating the four swords featured in the poem, and was later happy to see two of them brought to life by our own forumites and the crew of Arctic Fire 2016 when Dave Stephens created Hrunting, the ancestral and possibly fratricidal blade belonging to Unferth and lent to Beowulf for his fight against the mother. Then there is the Giant’s sword, brought to life by the fateful team of Jake Powning and Owen Bush, forged larger than life and more intricately than could have been imagined previously as a sword only a hero could have wielded. The Third sword is that of Wiglaf, which Dave DelaGardelle is conjuring into existence in his smithy with some steel that I forged for him. (this has been a call out Dave :)) Last but not least is the sword Nægling, an ancestral blade handed down to Beowulf by King Hygelac his forbearer. This is a kingly blade brought up earlier in the poem but used only in the final struggle against the serpent. This blade is an extension of the aged king, and carries the weight of his agency as king and protector. The blade breaks. Made by the hands of men, this heirloom is snapped when it impacts the serpents skull, too hard for normal steel. This is a beautiful moment in the poem for me. Beowulf is painted as the good guy. He has defeated monsters who wanted to destroy and cause harm to his allies. He selflessly defended the people in harms way and proved himself to be a very boastful but trustworthy and powerful man, capable of great deeds. This righteousness ends here. For all of his good intent and earthly power, the serpent IS death. Wyrd comes for all men, and soon the king too must rest. Having delved deeper into this poem I decided a year and a half ago that I would create this kingly sword as it was before it met fate. I had learned the art of hearth melting from Ilya Alekseyev, Mark Green, Zeb, Deming, and Matt Venier among others. I chose to create steel by the light of the full moon every month for a year, and that was the steel I would use to craft this blade. I created low and high carbon material from wrought iron nails, old projects, failed experiments, artifacts, pieces given to my by friends, iron and steel made by great smiths, like Ric Furrer and Jeff Pringle. I ran a melt at Ashokan, and with the help of some of my closest friends, and some wonderful new ones, I made a special piece of material that forged from a 6 pound lump into a 4 foot long bar with only a single crack in it. I helped run a summer class and taught 10 high schoolers how to run a hearth (or three) and make steel. I made material with friends and teachers and the process became as important as the result. At the end of these 12 months though I had come to the end of the easy part, and now I had to actually make the blade. The most important question was what would the blade look like? clearly it needed to be beautiful, as a kings sword would have been. It needed to symbolize the story, like the hilt of the Giant’s sword tells the story of the flood and the demise of the giants, this sword would tell the story of Beowulf and his demise. Enter in the sword from Vehmaa. Featured in the end of Pierces book, Swords of the Viking Age, almost as an afterthought, this blade captivated me since I first bought the book months after starting down this path. This incredible blade features different patterns on each side of the blade as well as an overlaid serpent in the top third of one side. The blade is broken in the top third, separating the serpent. This immediately jumped out to me as being a sword Beowulf could have carried, and the broken serpent was almost too perfect a parallel. Only one smith has been foolhardy brave enough to attempt this blade, and it's none other than my great friend Jesus Hernandez. His incredible creation, and still my favorite sword on this planet can be seen here: With his incredible example out in front I had to try and give it my best! I forged the blade, running into minor issues here and there. The blade itself I consider to be a failure, and is a practice piece for next time. the largest thing I had forged from my own steel was a small seax for Matthew Berry who graciously agreed to do a rush job on making a hilt for this crazy project of mine. I had made much of the steel I used for the sword at Matt’s house over the last year and it was fitting to combine our skills to make a sword worthy of the legendary king. So without further ado, I give you Beowulf’s sword! Just kidding WIP first! This is a small bit of the material I had made and started to refine for this undertaking. The iron and steel pieces were refined differently with an eye for what would go where in the blade. I had close to 60 pounds of material refined for the blade when I was done prep, just to be on the safe side! The billets finished and ready for welding, The leftmost is the edge wrap and the other two are the two sorts of patterned bars found in the sword. I forge welded the serpent bar overtop of the twists on one side of the blade before welding the two sides together. I apologize I don't have many photos of this all as it was a frantic and busy couple of days. The two core pieces next to each other. The original sword had an iron core, but I chose to forgo the added complication. Here the edge is wrapped and welded. It was much harder with home made material than it ever has been for me in modern steel. I'm not sure wether that was due to different expectations in workability or what. The tip weld was nearly the breaking point when I thought I had failed. Some of the pattern peeking through in the scale as I forged the fuller. The original had an iron inlay which was hard to make out. Mikko Moilanen was incredibly generous with his research and has some information on this piece in his dissertation. Skip forward a few crazy minutes and you get to the final moment. The blade was quenched in water and survived! The moon steel sword had hardened nicely. During grinding the blades edges sparked similarly to 1095 or w2 which was a huge surprise as I had never made home made steel that nice before. All of you here know the arduous process that is hand polishing. I wish I had ground it perfectly to 400 grit and polished 320 400 and then 600 and called it a day, but I don't use jigs or fixtures or whatever so I relied on free handing the rest of the geometries. This is scary and also not fun. I ground the blade near sharp at 36 grit and left it there, and polished by hand the rest of the way. This was awful, but worth it, because when I was done and left the blade in the ferric I saw something that made the years work worth it. I had finished the blade but any good blade needs a handle! I contacted my friend Matt and asked if he would be willing to make the fittings for the blade. He agreed and I sent him a photo that was included in a huge set of files from the National Museum of Sweden that he had previously sent me. The museum took wonderful photos of the sword from Vallstenarum. This was the hilt I wanted for my sword and so Matt created beautiful waxes based exactly on the original. The hilt is from a burial in Gotland and features a fabricated and rather botched ring assembly that was certainly not original to the sword. Matt began carving and in an unimaginably small amount of time was able to craft all of the parts needed for the sword and cast them. I went over to his house and we began fitting, drilling, filing, polishing, and assembling all of the parts. We did a huge amount of work and then I took most of the grip home to create the wooden components while Matt finished the pommel assembly. I carved the wooden grip and when I came back a few days later, we spent an afternoon finishing the sword. I had crafted a makeshift sheath which turned out to be hugely helpful in letting us hold the sword for finishing I brought the sword home and began finishing the sheath and the small details so that it would be ready for my gallery show. I forgot to mention I also put together a gallery show for my thesis! That was a lot of work. I had a small space that I filled with several swords and photos on the walls, and cases full of work and some artifacts. I'm sure you guys will recognize some of the pieces! I had to do a loooooot of borrowing to have enough to show I had a case full of some kitchen knives and miscellaneous pieces as well as a belt made with Matt's castings and some artifacts and the pieces they inspired. The center piece! A bit of a story board. A hammer made by Ilya, the one I use for everything along with some parts of the process. Admiring the work! The turn out for the show was far greater than I had anticipated, and it was a huge amount of fun to see so many familiar faces all in the same place. Thank you to everyone here who has inspired me to undertake this journeying to the people who made it possible, both with help researching and experimenting and with distractions or encouragement. Now my hands are starting to itch again, time to get busy!
  37. 2 likes
    It's been quite some time since I've been active here, and I see I've missed a lot of good work. So of course I'd come here for the best advice I could hope for. I've been on a seax kick recently and have discovered I've been doing it fairly wrong. Mainly in regards to proportion. So a posting on a Facebook page reminded me that Peter Johnsson has done a fair amount of research on the his topic, along with George ezell, and Jeroen Zuiderwijk, and others. So I thought, why not ask here? Seems like a no brainer. This is my latest one I started on. Close to the Wheeler type IV, I began, on great advice of the previously mentioned, to play with Peter Johnsson's proportions. I think I may settle on a 10:7 blade to handle ratio. The blade length is 7 inches, which would put the handle at, including any bolster or plates, 4 7/8. The blade is thickest at 3/8, at the break. This is only rough ground and will thin out a little with the final grind. This is where I'm at currently, so any advice is welcome. I'm not married to any ideas at the moment. Though I am leaning towards a simple Masur birch handle with no other hardware. Thanks in advance. -Tim
  38. 2 likes
    Today I finished the smallest of them. I present the entire production process from the silver "roll" to the final effect. I would like to mention that I used the simplest tools that the blacksmiths could have (9 A.D). Hammer, file, punch,crucible ... noo and fire because this is also a tool !!!! In a small crucible (a fat clay slicked with roasted sand from the brook), I dissolved some broken little ones (ring and fork). I poured into a sandstone mold, then spat out and let go on fire. I cut off unnecessary pieces (not to waste raw material) and worked out a file. The rivet hole on the ear was not drilled by the drill, but the first one was cut off from the sides and then scraped the holes. I realized and ... end.
  39. 2 likes
    Hello! I would like to offer my latest knife. The story if its creation can be followed here: It is a knife with a blade made of four bars - wrought iron, patternwelded rod of 9 layers, wrought iron again and high carbon steel on edge.The handle is ashen, hand-carved in ringerike style, the motif taken and adjusted from an 11th century brooch. At the end of the handle is a wrought iron butt cap and a loop, housing a brass ring decorated with triangles made of punched small 1mm circles. Also, there is a leather strap to make the pulling of the knife easier. The sheath features an antler plate decorated in the same style, the motif coming from a weather vane found on Gotland. There is a decorated brass ring too, ready for a strap attaching it to the belt. The rest of the sheath is sewn using a hand woven flax string, and there are three wrought iron clamps to add a bit of a bling . The OAL of the knife is 22cms, blade length is 10,6cm. I am asking 500USD/443E for this one
  40. 2 likes
    I did some more work on the basket this morning. So far, it's coming along pretty well.
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    And the finished product, i am quite happy how she turned out. Theme Tomato, hope you like it.
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    That auto hamon is cool! I think the overall look would benefit from a more square handle to match the square shape of the blade, maybe a Japanese-style octagonal or teardrop-shape handle. Also, I got to see a demonstration of Jim Cooper's setup at Blade, and one thing that really enhances a knife photo is if the tip is not touching the surface it is on. In fact, it is better to have the blade raised off of the surface completely. He does this by buying putty that you can find at any hardware store, and putting it under the blade and handle so that it raises the knife up and is hidden under the knife. Here is a jig that he made for taking photos of handles. the blade fits in the softwood piece with holes, and the PVC pipe is filled with sand/lead to provide a counterbalance. This is his wallpaper collection that he got from years of dumpster diving and making friends with people who work in stores that sell wallpaper. Also he has a cheap plastic mirror that can be tilted by using that little green clamp. This is his PVC diffuser setup. Notice how he has a V for his head when taking high angle shots, and his computer is even part of the structure!
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    Today, I got the 'D' guard forged out and fitted, so now, I have a good foundation for the rest of the basket work.
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    The hilt build has begun. I've decided to use railroad spikes for the basket. Yes, I know it'll be a long process, but I think it'll be fine. All the pieces will be welded together.
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    Gentlemen this is my finished KITH. I will be traveling next week and unable to put my name in as done. Admin please do this for me. I will ship when I get back home. Thanks, Good luck everyone.
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    So I kept playing with different handle lengths and I found that I liked a 6:5 ratio better. It also extended the handle length to about 6 inches, which falls into more historical dimensions. John Cook, Handle length isn't an issue to obtain. I have several boards I just cut what I need. This will need to wait a little while, I don't have a drill bit long enough to do the job. Once I get the stock I need, I'll make one and then we'll proceed.
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    Hi all! I"m new to this forum and also to forging knives. Only some two years. I wanted to show you all some of my recently finished knives and also get some input. The damascus is all forged by me and is 15n20 with either 1095, W2 or 52100 This first one is a laddered crushed W 190 mm gyuto. Handle is desert ironwood burl with copper and ebony spacers. Ferrule and endcap is sperm whale tooth. Saya made from american walnut with pin of whale bone. This next one is a laddered 240 mm kiritsuke. Koa with ebony/buffalo spacers. Ferrule and endcap buffalo Here is my first try at a composite blade. 210 mm gyuto 3x maidens hair twist with 15n20 in between. Handle made from ebony with sterling silver and swedish moose bone spacers.
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    My father-in-law was kind enough to lend me some space and tools to help me finish my first knife. Y'all have seen that one. Anyway, either because he liked it, or he was being nice, he asked for one of his own. Two-ish months of fighting and failures later, it's finally done, and chuffing all the bits. Scooty Puff Jr (not pictured) helped pick ipe and birch for the handle. No amount of solvent will make ipe stick to anything with epoxy. So, not only did I have to figure out two piece scales, I had ten seconds to put them together. Twice (I ruined my first set). Luckily, heat treat is dead simple with 1080 analogue. No surprises, there. I made my own micarta as a liner. It delaminated. I did an instant coffee etch. It finished spotty. Rework, revise, save those for ideas for another day. Grind. Peen. Grind some more. Hate Wes a little for setting the bar so high on pin finish. Hand sand. Hand sand some more. Consider driving to the big box store for a higher grit sandpaper. Realize you're posting in the second person, and wrap it up. Even with all the trouble, I'm incredibly happy with this thing. Thank you all for the advice, and allowing me to share pics of my new baby. Good night, gentlemen.
  49. 2 likes
    More progress today. I got the bevels defined and did a basic cleanup. I still have another hour or so of some fine tuning then the nervous part... heat treating.
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    In the beginning of May, I started working on a pair of sickle-swords, the first swords I've attempted. Being my first run at a blade over 20" overall, I wanted to start with something simple in design. Finally finished them this weekend. I sold one, and I'm keeping one. The specs are identical for both pieces... Steel: 1075 Handle Material: Bolivian Rosewood Overall Length: 30" Blade Length: 24 & 1/2" Handle Length: 5 & 1/2" Ricasso: 1 & 1/8" Tang Thickness: 3/16" POB: 6 & 1/2" from front edge of handle Weight: 1 lb, 7 oz Heat treated by Lyndle Driggers of J&L Cutlery