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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    “Far over the misty mountains cold, To dungeons deep and caverns old, We must away, Ere break of day, To claim our long forgotten Gold the latest Seax by Myself and Petr Florianek... My blade but Petr has surpassed himself with the blade carving , handle and sheath ...My fave to date. hope you like it. [
  2. 11 points
    hi everyone! Alright, so I'm spending somewhat of an eternity working on the sheath of this thing - so I've decided to post at least half of the thing... the knife itself. Let me present - Draumr Gripnir - the "Dream Grip" - with some unintended fingermarks and all! Blade in two bars of folded and twisted railroad steel, with a third bar (edge) of 15n20 and ferrier's rasps. Handle i copper, brass, camel bone and vulcanized fiber. The runes engraved in the brass reads "keep your blade sharp, but your mind sharper". The nut on the end really tested my skills as an aspiring "jewler". Anyhow - sheath and complete measurements to come. Needless to say, this is one heavy knife due to the massive materials in the handle. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  3. 10 points
    It only took 5-6 years. The blade is a two-core interrupted twist. The handle is sea cow bone, the fittings are about 2lbs of silver with niello inlay, and there are two opals set into the sheath, which is the same from front to back. The stand is black walnut.
  4. 9 points
    I have been working on the idea of this for a while...patternwelded inlay(ish) ...this is patternweld with sterling silver spacers and inlay/
  5. 9 points
    Finishing this up. Water quenched 1095 blade, copper guard plate, antler bolster with carved birds head cartouches , carved box burl handle, leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  6. 8 points
    My latest sword a patternwelded single edged viking with patternwelded fittings. hope you like it. stay safe out there.
  7. 8 points
    Hello.... For over 11 years I have been working on traditional Japanese edged weapon, specifically grinding and polishing blades and making rim of swords. I use traditional materials and their modern modified analogues. Forging and heat treatment of blades are done by my friend Dmitry, he is a professional blacksmith and gunsmith with experience over 10 years. Since 2016, i began making art knives, in the styles: cyberpunk / bio-mechanics, using some of the best materials and precious metals. I try to do all the work in the highest quality, studying new technologies and do various experiments with design. Showing my last work, just as interesting, I will show my later work ... Aikuchi "The Black Moon" Authors: Daniil Izotov / Dmitry Chebukin. Blade: steel 9xs, 305/30/5 mm (length with handle 45 cm, in sheath 49)traditional grinding / polishing. Frame: magnolia, epoxy enamel, silver, copper. Sageo cord, kara-kumi weaving style.
  8. 6 points
    This is a close copy of a small Latvian seax that was meant to hang from a Viking woman's apron brooch. The knife is O1 tool steel. Handle is bone and Scandinavian Birch. Bronze bolster. Overall length is about 6 inches. The Sheath was made from veg-tan leather and 22 gauge sheet brass. Rivets were made from 10 gauge brass wire. The suspension chain was made from 12 gauge brass wire. Patina is Black Magic.
  9. 6 points
    Blade: W1 Handle scales: Ironwood Fittings: 416 Inlay: fine silver wire
  10. 6 points
    I've been trying to work up a mosaic bar that will have a pattern of an appropriate scale to look good on a 2.5" folding knife. This weekend I finished up the last of the square welding with a 9-way weld of 1/2" bars drawn out of a prior 4-way. Now I am ready to tile it up. The pattern is quite small now, but I know it will expand when I forge it out a bit after the tile weld. This slice is literally the end 1/4" of the bar. I'm hoping the pattern is a bit less random further inside. I'll be using my new found "Gary's Canoe" knowledge to tile this one up, and have some ideas for how to further enhance the pattern. Stay tuned...
  11. 5 points
    Thanks for the nice words everyone! Looks like its pretty well 100% gone. Demolition crew are starting knocking down the remains of the building in the morning. There is a tiny glimmer of hope that I might be able to salvage a couple of power hammers once the building is down, they look scorched, flooded and sad, but might live again. My little knife finishing shop on the other side of the estate is OK, which gives me a bit of comfort.
  12. 5 points
    Ba-dah dah-dum I’m sittin’ in a basement office Tryin’ hard to work from home I was the last in the family to work remote So there was nowhere in the house to roam. Ba-dah dah-dum Stumbling around with my mini-laptop Lookin’ for a nice place to sit But every time I entered a new room They’d say “Dad you’ve got to split!” Ba-dah dah-dum Finaly, down to the basement I retreated full of hope I was eyebalin’ my messy work bench Could hear my boss in my head sayin’ “Nope!” Ba-dah dah-dum I shoved a mess aside, and sat my bottom down Now I’m trying real hard to work with all my toys around! Ba-dah dah-dum
  13. 5 points
    Howdy!! Here are a few of the latest from my front yard.. The Kard s 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron with a red Bovine Ivory grip.. The white gripped dagger is in a maiden hair pattern with a blade of 1095, L-6 and meteoric iron with some pre-WWI white Bakelite. The sheath is set with a 12.78 ct star ruby The darker griped dagger is in a ladder pattern in 1095, L-6 and meteoric iron with some more Pre-WWI Bakelite . the sheath has a 14.56 ct star ruby set into it..These were going to RPFS in Irwindale, CA but that is canceled so up on the website these go! These didn't turn out too bad considering an old man made them out in his front yard.. Hope these come out properly.. JPH
  14. 5 points
    I've never made a sword before or done any pattern welding, so this is me feeling my way in the dark. I'm having fun! I went with a simple 2-bar herringbone core. The core bars are 7 layers (1084 and 15N20). For the edges, I built a 7-layer stack alternating wrought, 15N20, wrought, and 1084 (etc). Welded up my core bars... Twisted them with my buddy's torch... And then moved and forgot about this project for 12 months So now that I'm shut in on quarantine-- I'll grind it tomorrow and see how the welds look. They all seemed solid while I was forging the profile so...we shall see. As a bonus, I ended up with about 12" of extra herringbone bar. I made way more than I needed! Bonus seax? My goal for this blade is an early Anglo-Saxon style: fullerless (double-lenticular profile), 70cm long x 4.5cm wide blade, and a 12cm tang. I forged in a subtle distal taper, and the dynamics feel about right. Still too heavy at 2.5lb, but I assume I'll knock a lot of that off when I grind the surface and finish the bevels? I've got an old army surplus ammo tube and 6 gallons of canola oil, so once I finish the rough grinding I'll need to get up my courage enough to harden it.
  15. 5 points
    I was retired from smithing up till about 3 years and change ago.. I primarily forge now when I make a video for YT or get a question asked by a newb or during demo season or teaching which happens at event and such.. I was asked to gather up some of my work of which there was none from before that 3 years mark and change. So, all I have is new work other than the wakizashi which is a reject as the measurements are off. It was interesting to me that I have actually forged a good amount of bladed skulduggery and this does not include the blades that have been sold. Nor any of the other items forged (hammers, thumblatches, hardies, forkes, spoons, etc, etc)..
  16. 5 points
    I got some forging time in this evening before the snow/hail mix started. Kept working on this little kiridashi style knife. I’m going to draw out the tang another inch or so and then work on Forging a story towards the tip. I don’t want to go any profile grinding on it, and a minimal amount filing on it.
  17. 5 points
    I often mention using alignment pins and a drywall screw to hold the handle piece together while finishing the handle off the blade. I just did a search and realized I never posted the technique on this forum. So here it is. My alignment pins are laid out in relation to the tang, and I purposely offset them in relation to both center lines so that there is only one way to assemble the spacer to the handle once it is made. (pretend this spacer is not shaped yet)Now, the drywall (DW) screw will not fit through that slot. So, you have to grind off the teeth on opposite sides of the screw to make it thin enough to pass through the slot.Hopefully, your slot in the handle is not much wider than the slot in the spacer, but if it is (like this one) you will need some wood shim material. I use thin pieces of cedar shims from Home Depot.Slide them down the handle slot (fat end first) and break them off. They should be loose in the hole, but wide enough to overlap center.Now put your spacers or spacers & guard in place using the alignment pins.Slip a couple of washers over the screw, (put a leather one against the guard face so not to scratch it up), slip the screw through the slot and in between the wood shims. Tap it down until it is tight against the face and give it a 1/4 turn. It will hold everything together tightly.
  18. 5 points
    I have changed horses and got back to a rifle stock I am doing so this morning I started with the action inlet I did a couple of weeks back Having done the preliminary channel with straight chisels cutting across the grain it is then time to start the long process of scraping the fit in so at that stage this is what I see when smoking the barrel and transfering the soot to the channel These are the two main scrapers for the work till I get down to sanding rather than scraping. They are just old files I have bent and re-shaped for the purpose then re heat treated to harden the edge. I got a little video of the process
  19. 5 points
    I'm working on adding enameling to my repertoire. This is a drinking horn called Hvetr-rafn, or the Winter Raven. It should be fun.
  20. 5 points
    Plum tree had ripe fruit so a day of making sauce, jam and some preserves but still have more preservers to do The I was tempted by some nice wood so have these coming Tasmanian Blackwood Yellow Cedar Burl And some black lacewood I bought last week And last but not least a block of redwood burl
  21. 5 points
    Well, I courageously executed the first-fire on my forge today. Nothing blew up, but I did lose much of the hair on my forge lighting arm. It's going to take me a little time to figure out the balance of propane pressure and forced air pressure, but I'll get there. Pretty excited about the whole thing.
  22. 5 points
    Had a fun forging day today with John of this manor (not sure of his user name!) The press tooling worked well for punching, but I forgot to photo, Ill get some pics next time I remember. I made a tiny rounding hammer from a massive bearing roller, for my 4 yr old sprog - about a pound at a guess
  23. 5 points
    Final straightening as it had a slight kink still 3/4 of the way near the tip. I just clamp against the rest of the 1075 stock I forged it from and used some aluminium foil to shim and clamped bevels ground and now just to clean up with hand sanding then handle and then to find a Barra.
  24. 5 points
    I have other projects I should be finishing, but am having a hard time staying away from this one, so I got quite a bit done today. First it was back into the fire to try to get it forged to shape. I recently swore off flux, and replaced the sacrificial kiln shelves on my forge floor with some nice clean ones. I can't believe how nice it was to work on something without getting it covered with sticky molten flux residue every time it went back into the forge. I've been working hard lately to push myself to forge much closer to final shape than I had been. Until now I have been taking "forge thick, grind thin" a little too literally. The cable skin on this billet is quite thin so it is forcing me to get the blade forged pretty close if I want any of the cable pattern to show in the finished piece. I've seen folks do much better, but this is pretty good for me: Here is the other side: Here is an edge shot just because I'm a little proud of myself: Finally, a shot showing off the cross section: I was shocked how fast I could clean up the bevels and profile on this blade. The old adage "5 minutes at the anvil can save you and hour at the grinder" turns out to be pretty accurate. I had the blade profiled, and the bevels mostly cleaned up in about 10 minutes. However this fuller sanding part sucked... I was all giddy at first because I was able to clean up the fuller to this point in about 5 minutes. However after another hour of work I still have some sanding to do. This is far as I had the patience to take it today. A little more sanding, and it will be ready to heat treat. I did a quick dip in ferric to see where I was at. It was only after that I remembered that this billet has a layer of 15N20 between the cable and the 1084, so this is really a go-mai blade. Then I finally sat down to dinner. I get strange cravings and just go with it.
  25. 5 points
    Well it looks like success. Heat treat went well with just a slight bend which came out in temper. I did 3 cycles At 220c. The blade spine is 1.7 mm tapering to .7 near tip and has good flex but not too much. I still have to grind in bevels and clean up but happy.
  26. 5 points
    I have finished a new set of 3 kitchen knives with sayas. An 8 inch slicer, a 6.5 inch chef's (was supposed to be 7 inch but i had a whoopsie , so it looks a little 'stout' to my eye) and a 5.5 inch petty. I made these for myself and since there was no outside purpose or spec, used them to try a load of different things i wanted to experiment with. so its an eclectic set where not everything matches but there are some consistent features that give it a common style: - Angular, raked blades, handles and sayas. this set is facets on facets on facets. the only curves you will find anywhere are in the heel of (some) of the blades for functionality reasons, the actual blade edge themselves, and the backs of the handles. - Bronze. I love bronze in general, but this set is fitted out fully in copper, phosphorous bronze and gunmetal. i have also made the bolsters and one of the saya pins out of brazed and then forged multi-alloy blocks, a sort of mokume gane style (just brazed not kiln welded). I think this adds depth and interest to the bolsters and also a thin band of silver solder between the layers that catches the light. The wood is all from a single block of Mexican Cocobolo. man this wood kicked my ass for a while. the dust is a nightmare, i spent more time hoovering than shaping it. It's oily and clogs up abrasives instantly, requiring constant cleaning of belts and hand abrasives. it changes colour so fast that despite everything starting the same, it all looks a bit mismatched. those handles and sayas come from 3 sawn off continuous slabs from one block. but because they were all finished at slightly different times, the colouration varies, like the smallest saya, which i finished first and is darker. this was a pain when i needed to make small adjustments. if you re-sand one facet, you have to re-do them all! otherwise it looks bad. But, for all that, the wood itself is amazing, very hard, able to take a near mirror finish and doesn't split or move or splinter easily and i love the grain and colour variation and figure in the wood. The blades are two variants of twisted pattern welded 15n20 and 1095. one is plain low layer, the other is a low layer bar twisted with a higher layer bar and i think that one is amazing, wish they had all been made of that material. The handles are designed for pinch grip use primarily, and are relatively short, with steep slope towards the bolster which i find is very comfortable and avoids a sharp/sudden drop under your front fingers which i find straight/octagonalised handles have. they also have a pronounced belly to help grip with the back two fingers. They are faceted in a biased octagonal shape, wider at the top than the belly. overall i tried variations of this shape on the 3 handles, trying to find the sweet spot, and the largest knife, the 8 inch slicer, has the most comfortable handle. the petty knife handle is slightly too tall for its width and is a bit akward, and the 6.5 inch chef's knife handle is just a little too slim. next time i would make them all slightly longer too. great learning experience doing those. The Sayas are all very different in design, i wanted to try a variety. The slicer has a fairly blocky saya, quite heavy and thick, with a bronze faceplate. The Chef's knife has a more 'traditional' saya, with a cut out for the bolster, thinner walls, and generally more slim and angular. the Petty has a 'topless' saya, with a split for a bronze bar and a bronze stop at the back. all are felt lined. The two larger sayas have pins, of two very different designs. the Chef's has a 'typical' turned and rounded gunmetal pin. for the slicer, i went with something different. i took a small slice of the brazed bronze bolster material and drilled and brazed a 1/4 inch gunmetal rod into it, then shaped and profiled it. The rod part i ovalised, and i also ovalised the hole in the saya. what this means is that you put the pin in with the 'tab' aligned down the handle, which is 'loose' to do, and then you twist the tab 90 degrees so that it lies along the saya in the postion below. this locks it as the long axis of the oval pin rotates into the short axis of the hole. This gives it a very satisfying feel, and if it ever gets loose, i just apply a thin film of glue to the sides of the hole and it will be perfect again. i will definitely use this style again in the future because its just so tactile and again i think visually striking. although it was a lot of work, i guess 5-6 hours total just on that pin and fitting it. The blades all have a sort of 'double' k-tip. I doubt this is entirely origional, although i dont remember seeing it before, im sure someone has. but either way i love it. I really like the look of the tip compared to a regular k-tip. another feature i will use again. The blades all have minifaceted tops rather than 90 angles, mostly for comfort but i also like the way it looks. They are also on the thin side. between 1.8 - 2mm at the back of the spine, down to sub milimeter on the spine just before the tip, but with very little distal taper on the main part of the spine (you cant have much distal taper on a blade that starts at 2mm!). so these blades are light, flexible and laser sharp. the edges are honed to a mirror finish. Both the larger blades have the balance point right at the ricasso/bolster transition, so they are super light in the hand when you hold them pinch grip. they dont tug or try and twist your hand forwards, the combination of balance point and light overall weight makes them feel like feathers in the hand. not sure if a professional chef would like that, or want something with a weightier feel, but I like it. I tried 3 different styles of shoulder/ricasso/bit where it joins the bolster. the slicer has a stepped ricasso with a 3mm section and tang. the chef's is just straight the whole way, and the petty has a quirky angled join with the blade being flush with the bottom of the bolster, which is sliced rather than slotted. The chef's knife with the straight profile ricassio is my least favorite. it just creates a weak point, and visually doesnt look as good as the slicer. it being a weak point, when the blade flexes, it flexes at the point where the blade meets the bolster. i am concerned about the long term effect this might have. the slicer flexes evenly along the blade, putting way less moment and stress into the transition into the bolster. it feels way more solid and just looks right. the petty I quite like. its different, its angular, but i like the joint between the bottom of the blade and the bolster, it fits the style of the blade and saya i think. A few piccies of the individual blades and some more detail on the saya's fit and construction. So, this is my 2nd 'set' of knives, i learned a lot by making them and i don't know exactly where i will go for set 3 but i have a few smaller projects to do in the meantime. got a mean 11 inch carving knife ready for finishing in silver and macassar ebony which i am really looking forward to doing, i think that is going to be very cool. So, three months of my life, (part time, evenings etc. maybe 200 hours total) went into these knives. let me know what you think! which saya works for you? i have my favorite and one that i dont massively like, but i want to know what others like. does the double angled tip work? whatever. critique is welcome.
  27. 5 points
    Been a busy couple of days with all the handle on and this morning got them all rough shaped on the 2x72 and made a start on finishing them. From the top there is paper micarta and bras, madrone burl and paper micarta, maple burl and paper micarta, matai and paprer micarta, ambonya burl and buff horn, and at the bottom is sapele and stainless. The sapele being a softer wood made getting the transition from one to the other a very delicate process and at time very frustrating.
  28. 4 points
    Howdy again folks. Following along the same knife pattern as my most recent post, I've gone to my comfort zone and tried to create something clean, sleek, and classy. I think I did alright! Hope yall enjoy!
  29. 4 points
    I made these for some rancher friends of mine. Both blades are forged from horse shoe rasps. The first one is 7 1/4" overall, with a 3" blade. The handle is made of brass, katalox spacer, green fiber gaskets, and Indian rosewood. The blacksmith knife is 7" overall, with a blade length of 2 1/4". These sheaths bear my first attempts at carving. The C lightening bolt brand was hard and didn't quite turn out as sharp as I wanted it to. Critiques and thoughts are welcomed.
  30. 4 points
    You're missing the point, it is not and never was about deaths. The point was and remains trying to keep people healthy enough so as not to overwhelm whatever health care system they have. A friend of mine is a doctor in New York City. They are at the very edge of their ability to deal with patients. Not just CV patients, but ALL patients. Admittedly, there are going to be some who really don't belong in the hospital, but there are some who do. So, what is happening there and what will soon happen in New Orleans, all because people won't do what they're supposed to do to limit the spread of what is admittedly just an annoying virus for most people, is why we have these distancing orders. I am closing this thread, as it's off-topic and dangerously close to getting political. I let it go as long as I did because we do need a place to vent, but it's become apparent that this forum is not the place. Peace, gentlemen and ladies, and let's keep it on bladesmithing and related arts and crafts. Thanks.
  31. 4 points
    So, I was approached 2 different times with the question about having a video on "Ax or hatchet" forging.. I don't currently have a hatchet or Ax video out. It takes 6 hr to make either.. Kind of funny since one is bigger then the other. Anyhow, I needed a new hatchax as my old one was in need of a redress so decided to film it and see what I could come up with for a "Free" youtube video. here are the photos.. Oh, the reason I call it a Hatchax is because it is a very light head on a small boys ax handle.. they cut amazingly well and serve both well for light and medium heavy work.. a 3+" oak limb is normal with one swing.. Some super course/loose wrought iron.. Pretty cool in the photos because you can see how the grain of the wrought iron was sheared and moved and also where the grain is compressed and stretched. This wrought iron was so loose that in order for it to stay together at all. I had to completely change how I would normally proceed and welded the eye first, then split the cutting edge back open to insert the steel.. the stuff was so back that there was no way it would stay together for a decent preform.. I had to shape it after the steel was welded in so the steel would hold it from shredding apart. Enough chit chat..
  32. 4 points
    OK. So this forum was an amazing place, going back now... how many years? Certainly before social media, and Facebook in particular took a lot of people's attention away, because it really became the new marketing space. It was hard to spend so much time and social energy on multiple platforms and the forum lost a lot of my attention. I could deal with Facebook so long as I could use the add-on Social Fixer, which blocked political posts & keywords... LOL. But I had to upgrade my laptop and now it's not available for my browser for whatever reason. That makes Facebook and all the incessant, divisive, BS I see ratcheting up on both sides of the equation a strict no-go for my morning coffee and psychological well-being. It is good to come home.
  33. 4 points
    Here's one I finished up pretty recently. It's hearth steel I made from a pile of old blades I was unhappy with for whatever reason. It's such a satisfying transformation. The handle is oosic, or 10,000 year old fossilized walrus dick bone. It's more difficult to find nice pieces of oosic these days, and I really like this one. I'm honestly torn on whether or not to sell it.
  34. 4 points
    Another one waiting for a sheath. Maple burl on a 3 inch EDC. Not the best pic but will get to that when all done and it goes in my various knives thread
  35. 4 points
    I have been researching fillet knives for a while hoping to find the perfect recipe for steel, geometry and heat treat. Well I have found all manner of opinions and info but nothing definitive so I have decided to just conduct my own experiments. I am starting to feel that blade geometry is the key and normalising a critical factor (I do 3 cycles anyway with every blade) I have made some over thickness blades and grind after heat treat and some very thin and tried to quench with mixed results but have settled at this stage on this. Yesterday I forged this blade from a very old rusty meat cleaver from under a farm shed (so just an unknown carbon steel) and forged quite thin (bit over 2 mill at the thickest down to about a mill at the tip) I cleaned off the scale and did some rough profiling then did my quench as normal in oil. The blade hardened very well and a file scated along its length though I lost some to decarb near the tip before the file scated but I want the tip fine so that suited. I got a better than expected slight bend in the blade but this came out in the first temper cycle. I clamped it to a straight bit of steel. here is the blade after forging and rough profiling. Next pics are after rough sanding and quench. The flex pic is after the first temper cycle at 190 c and is at thickness described above. I intend to do 2 more temper cycles at 200c and see how that is for flex and can then do some more post heat treat grinding after till I get the flex I want. So where I sit at the moment (and it may yet prove wrong)is - forge as close as possible to desired thickness then do basic profile and rough grind of bevels and heat treat as any other meat knife and then grind thinner if required post heat treat. Anyhow for what it’s worth that’s my thoughts. I would appreciate any of your thoughts on preferred blade shape etc and if you have an opinion on the design re a curved blade or straight. Wider or thinner blade.
  36. 4 points
    I got a start on a new Bowie blade today for my existing inlaid handle. This one is from a piece of 1 3/4" W1 round rod. I haven't decided yet if I will give it a hamon or not. [ W1 does a very nice hamon should I decide to do a differential H/T.] My old elbow wore out today before I had the forging complete on it. I'll try to do better tomorrow.
  37. 4 points
    Something like this: I've yet to hand finish the blade and I may add some simple filework to the guard like a fuller running around the middle of it.
  38. 4 points
    Well it sure has given me something to think about. I am going to do some more experimenting with different steels however this latest knife seems to be what I was hoping for so I will stick with that blade geometry. Once finished I will test my edge retention on 6 chickens as I can’t seem to catch any fish lately. I will debone and make them into rolled roasts (just learnt how to tie the Butchers Knot. Here it is so far. I decided to use some brass bolsters and water buffalo horn. I chose to use the part of the horn with the groves as I thought it gives it a bit of character. Still got a fair bit of finishing to go on handle and blade where glue squeezed out from bolster.
  39. 4 points
    As you can see here, I ended up giving this dagger/toothpick a simple, traditional style hilt. I'm saving the wire inlaid hilt for a future Bowie knife.
  40. 4 points
    To avoid that, just remember turn on the air first, THEN the gas. Then when you shut down, turn off the gas first, then the air. If you then want to scare the bejeebers out of a visitor, wait until the forge is good and hot, fully bright red inside, then trip over the cord to the blower. The forge will start making a sort of "WHUFFwhuffwhuffwhuffWHUFF" noise, with billows of dark orange flame rolling out the doors. If left alone it will eventually go out, but not before blowing relatively cool flames up to five feet from the forge. If you let it go for more than about 20 seconds, though, it's only polite to cut the gas before restarting the blower. If you hit the blower as it's starting to go out the resulting "WHOOOMPH!" tends to cause stained underwear. Not that I've ever done this, of course. Had it done TO me, yes.
  41. 4 points
    Worked just fine. I used 197 1/8" coctail straws to make the holes. Fretted over casting it for months for fear I'd mess it up. Took one hour from the time I poured the bags of casting material into the bowl for mixing to completion. Easy-Peazy! I will add though, the stuff is like trying to cast crunchy peanut butter. I used an air-impact chisel directed at the side of the casting and it turned the material into jelly and it just flowed in-between those tiny strays like syrup. Prettiest burner casting I've seen on all the forums to date. I'll be reporting back when I fire it up...............either that or you'll read in the papers that some crazy knifemaker blew his shop off the face of the earth trying to light his new forge! Okay, just took a couple of pictures.
  42. 4 points
    Another quick progress peek: I’m hoping this works. Some things I’m worried about with this antler. It was the only piece I had that would fit these dimensions, but it has some characteristics I don’t like. I really either need to make good friends with a reindeer farmer or become on myself... I need more antler!!! Things are moving slow. I work in a hospital and have 4 kids on an extended spring break. Enough said. Hope everyone is well. Stay home, protect those around you. Oh - I wanted to show some in progress pictures: Adam
  43. 4 points
    Seax with decorated scabbard, hand forged blade from EN45 steel, hilt made bog oak, deer antler, leather and brass. Scabbard made of vegetable tanned leather with brass fittings, with leather loops to hang the seax on belt. Overall length 370mm, blade length 250mm, blade width (at the widest point) 35mm, blade thickness 4mm. Thank you Jacek video-1584546483.mp4 video-1584548208.mp4
  44. 4 points
    The ricasso side slot is about .004" narrower than the ricasso is thick. This will enable me to ensure a tight fit when the guard is pressed on. Then I draw back the tang and the ricasso area with the oxy-acetylene torch and a welding tip. After considerable pounding with my guard setting team, and cutting the resultant ribbon out of the slot with a hand graver, I got the guard set onto the ricasso. I also proceeded to make the finial. This was an experiment that worked out great. Originally, I was going to forge the finial from W1 stock, but Hancock convinced e to use 416 Stainless. The thickest piece of 416 I have is 3/8" and it's not enough. So I got this bright idea to forge weld two pieces together. Then I got a different idea and thought about how cool it would look to have a thin layer of bronze in between two layers of 416. Guess what? If you sand the 416 down to 220 grit on one face, and the .035" bronze clean on two faces, you can make a sandwich that is self-brazing. Just MIG the seams shut and throw it in the forge until it's at about 1600*F and let it cool. The only thing left is to redesign the spacer to incorporate some thin bronze. The guard shaping will be all stock removal. Now I have to drill and fit a piece of Blackwood to the tang and make the back spacer/finial combo.
  45. 4 points
    It took a while, because I had some other knives to make and sell, but I finished the handle, I might add some ring dots later if I can find the tool I made for that somewhere. I think this blade really needed some form of reinforcement at the front of the handle to keep it from splitting, after a few tries with different cord and metal wire I settled on a very simple leather string wrap. with the leather glued in place it feels really solid and I think it really fits the more sober look of this piece. After some research I do think that a leather and cord covering would be more historical for this style of knife/sword, and that the partial wrap is more of a scandinavian thing. There will be a patternwelded one in the future though, so I'll do a different more fancy handle on that one. This blade is a phenomenal cutter, I want to get some tatami mats to test it properly, as my normal targets like water bottles and cardboard tubes were no resistance at all. The overall lenght is 123 cm (48 inches) and it weighs just under three pounds, the originals would have been even heavier, but I was limited by the size of available steel. (at this point I'd consider trading a kidney for a source of 3/8ths 80crv2 ) The cat is for scale ofcourse
  46. 4 points
    Probably not the biggest but definitely one of my favorites. This was 6 years ago. Back in my bow fishing days. Just a big ol nasty carp!!!
  47. 4 points
    Counting the connecting pins, this hilt has 52 pieces.
  48. 4 points
    Rob,i'll try my best at a brief,and least complicated explanation(it's actually a very complex scene). There're two different kinds of cuts there in the smoker mixed up.(smoke,btw,contributes nothing to preservation,it's only to keep flies away). The almost-whole width fillets with cross-cuts is "dia'gah",the way native people here dried their fish for the rest of the year(salmon only run for a few weeks in summer,but run in huge numbers,so this was The mainstay of diet,there's precious little else here.In spring,when dry fish ran short,many would die of starvation just because of this shortage). Alaska is extremely arid,and once dry,fish or meat can store for a long time,but it starts freezing in mid-September anyway,so it's even handier. However,meat is one thing,Fat being quite another.And we need fat desperately,it contains most of the more complex amino-acid chain segments;meat is only protein that humans,unlike say canids,are incapable of utilizing for this. Fat doesn't dry.It goes putrid(polite term is "fermentation",but is not technically correct,being conversion of sugar,but here we run into unstudied complexities...). Putridity,rotting,is what we call the process when assorted bacteria come and start decomposing matter into finer components.From this point everything becomes pretty variable...What kind of bacteria,how long they're at it,how we Like it(and Why,one of the unanswered questions...Palatability is a huge deal for humans,physiologically so). So it all depends.I kinda "study" this stuff,have been for quarter-century,and there're few if any clear answers. Native people here used no salt(which is it's own kind of fermentation process btw),and dia'gah is very challenging for me to make. But it does keep indefinitely,becoming more stale,and at times even mouldy,but changing gradually all the time. I mostly freeze it as soon as it's "ready"(another uncertain term...). The long thin strips is a Scandinavian product,introduced here by gold miners a bit over 100 years ago(Alaska is just like Australia in that sense,only even newer,first white interloper up my drainage for example was russian half-breed Glazunov,in 1827). This is in contrast a complex form of salt,And fat,preservation.After "drying"(King salmon is so greasy it can never really be said to "dry"),it was packed into oaken casks,where the oil rose up to cover the fish,and acted as preservative. This i've actually never tried in that purely traditional form,and not sure just how stale or sour that fish oil may've gotten by the time weather turns to freezing. I also terminate these processes by simply freezing. Frozen,this stuff doesn't last forever,either.It's hard to package hermetically,and keeps on getting staler and drier("freezer-burned" in local usage). In general it works to keep it till almost the next fishing season,any longer and it may affect your fishing luck.... I'm not(i hope)being so long-winded because i'm a freak...It really is an infinitely complex,organic system(-s),flexible,ever-changing,rooted in some intensely complicated issues... All over the world Every culture does something of this kind.Cheese,cultured sausage,wine,bread even,and many,Many other ways to take advantage of that symbiosis we have with ambient aerobic bacterium.... " I fillet my fish and then skin and crumb or batter and deep fry with chips is my favourite way but probably not the healthiest." I totally relate!I think it's the best,and can be just fine if the grease is of a good sort.Often a big sheefish here would have enough fat around it's guts to almost fill the frying pan to overflowing...I use it to do just what you say,(if often too lazy to bread it...:)
  49. 4 points
    Sorry for the delay. Between work and the fire department, it's been a crazy week for me. I'm just now finding some time to chill out and relax a little. Here's the main products of the forging session @Jeremy Blohm and I had last weekend: 42 layers of 1084/15n20 and a 2lb version of Jeremy's Type 1(?) Hammer head. It was pretty much my first time forging anything that wasn't a blade or a fire poker, and definitely my first time playing with a power hammer. It still blows my mind that he was able to take a chunk out of the center section of a railroad track, similar to this: and turn it into a hammer head. I still can't thank you enough for letting me invade for the day. I'm looking forward to doing it again! I also had a nice surprise today. One of our new guys on the fire department found out that I play around with knife making and asked if I needed any wood for handles. When I asked him what kind of wood he was talking about, he went out to his car and came back with these two slabs of walnut: He said that these are the types of pieces that they cut out and throw away at his shop. As I was picking my jaw up off the floor, he started rambling on about birdseye maple, mahogany, oak burl, etc. I think I may have a new best friend!
  50. 4 points
    A few more handles done today Bushcraft hunter with micarta, Thumbrest skinner with swamp kauri over micarta, skinner with ebony over copper, mini skinner with impala jigged horn over blue liner, mini skinner with macrocarpa over micarta, hunter skinner with swamp kauri over ebony, and another hunterskinner with eucalyptus over micarta.
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