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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Hi All! Haven't been here for some time... I've been learning, and improving skills Here there is a scramasax forged out of 5 bars: 3 x twisted rods (45/68/45 layers) + spine and cutting edge of 80CrV2. The handle is made with bronze spacers, deer antler, pear wood and black leather spacer. The "eye" on the butt is brass riveted and soldered from beneath. Overall len.: 515mm/20,27" Blade len.: 323mm/12,71" Handle len.: 184mm/7,24" Width: at handle: 33,5mm/1,32", at widst point: 35mm/1,38" Thickness: 5,5mm/0,22" Weight: 483g/17oz Let's save the words, pictures show some stages of work
  2. 5 points
    So here it is, just as the title stated. This started off as a cutoff from a mosaic billet I am working on(which will be done sometimes next decade), and I had enough steel to forge out a knife, and this is that knife. Low layer high contrast paired with a crazy burl. The billet is 44 layers that was forged on the bias for some crushed W's, forged into a bar, and then forged on the bias again into another bar. How this is the result is beyond me. Anyhow, the steel is 1080 and 15n20, the guard is bronze and g10, and the handle is stabilized dyed Box Elder burl. The Blade Length is 4.75" and the OAL is 9.75" Thanks!
  3. 5 points
    I finally finished my first viking sword that I made all-by-myself. The big challenge on this one is that wide shallow fuller - I've never done that before and it looks difficult to get right. Here's the sword blank (1075 steel) with the bevels forged in. I shaped the initial blank with the power hammer, and then hand forged the tip and the bevels. I didn't take a picture, but the bevels are forged in with a spring tool whose dies are radiused to 6". Here's the result: Slightly crooked, but it gets a lot of the steel to the right areas and significantly widened the blade. It also made it about an inch longer. I did run the fuller all the way back through the tang. One of the biggest challenges on any sword is getting it straight in all dimensions. Here's how I start to establish a straight edge - marking fluid and a scribed straight line down the edge. It will move during the hardening process, but it's much easier to get back to straight when that's where you started. Doing it this way also means that I don't have to rely on the sword sitting flat on a surface. The fuller being straight struck me as the biggest challenge of the blade, so I made this contraption to grind the fuller straight: It's essentially a really big work rest (with legs) and a sled to hold the blade level as I move it. It worked very well for the rough grinding of the fuller. It got it nice and straight. After that all the grinding was done by hand. Not ruining the nice straight fuller is much easier (but not easy) than trying to establish one by hand. The wooden sled is a prototype and I learned a couple important things from it. First, make it metal as I set it on fire during the grinding. Second, without some kind if repeatable indexing for holding the blade you can never get the blade back in the same position again, so make a better sled or do all the grinding you can the first time. And yes, that's a 6" wheel on the grinder. The finished blade was pretty much straight. The sides of the fuller are a bit wobbly because that line can't directly be made straight - it's created by the interplay of the fuller and the bevels and is affected by the thickness of both. All you can do is make both as straight in all dimensions as possible and then do some cheat grinding where you didn't get it quite right. The guards and pommel are carved from wax. I modeled them after an original that I think is in the Swedish National Museum (but I could be wrong). I get the overall shape completed and fit them to the blade before I start decorative carving. That way if I blow some fundamental dimension or the fit, I haven't ruined lots of hours of carving. Skipping over a whole lotta work, here's the final product: The blade is 28" (711mm) long and the sword is 34" (863mm) overall. It weigh 2lbs 13oz (1146g). The handle is stabilized cherry burl, and the fittings are all bronze (90% Cu, 10% Sn) I'm fairly happy with it. I'm going to make the next blade a touch thinner as this one has a little more forward weight than I personally like. But then again another smith who held it said it was the first sword he really like because of that slight forward weight. It does let you know exactly what it's for - cleaving.
  4. 5 points
    I offered to make a knife in exchange for a favor from a friend. He asked if there was a way to incorporate some ashes from a close friend of his, and this is what I came up with. It has a 4.75" blade made with a low-layer mix of 1095 and 15N20. It was from a billet I made a year ago, so I don't remember the specifics, but I think it was 44 layers. The overall length is 9.5", and the handle is made from stabilized redwood burl. The right scale will slide off of the pins if you loosen the two set screws that are hidden inside the little brass tubes on the underside of the handle. This reveals a pocket with a brass capsule that can hold the cremains. I had to be pretty precise with all the parts, but I was able to make it so that there aren't any gaps or ridges when it is all assembled. I originally tried to hold the brass tubes in with epoxy, but the set screws could apply too much shear force and break them free, so I cross drilled through the scales into the tubes, and inserted some small threaded pins to keep them from backing out. You can see the cross holes in one of the pics.
  5. 5 points
    Hi guys! I've had my nose held firmly against the grindstone in the weeks leading up to Blade show, I thought you all would like to see thjs Oakeshotte type XVIII I've been working on over the past week or two. This is the first sword I've made as a part Longship Armoury The blade is 31" long, and 2" wide at the guard. I designed it to be a light weight arming sword with a considerable amount of cutting power, so the blade has a 35% distal taper from the base of the blade, which is 3.7mm (0.145") tapering down to 0.100“ at the tip. This blade presence gives it a very powerful, but very fast feel in the hand. Weight of the entire piece is 1.99lbs. It's much more stiff than you'd think, most of the blades I make that are less than about 3/16" at the base I have to toss, because they end up too floppy. But not so with this one. Speaking of the handling, the hilt node is pretty much between the guard and the grip, right on that little copper piece where it should be. Forward pivot point is on the blade node, or center of percussion. The point isn't really reinforced, but the geometry changes to a very sharp and sturdy "awl" shape. Great for ripping cuts with the point or thrusting. Crossguard was forged from old wrought iron, etched deeply to give it the dark woodgrainy pattern. The pommel I forged from antique steel, and gave it a unique "cosmic dark" finish. The pommel is a modified version of a fishtail pommel, more comfortable than a wheel pommel in my opinion. The grip was crafted from African blackwood, with copper accents to add a little color and bling to the hilt while keeping the aesthetic of the dark neutral tones in this piece. Hope you guys like it! If you've got any critique, questions, insults, or comments, let me know!
  6. 4 points
    hey Charles, Attached typology of the axes. Its the X type, based on finds from Rus territory and Baltic countries. I hope this helps. thank you
  7. 3 points
    A basic hunter OL 11 3/4" BL 6 3/4 Blade 1084 Copper and mild steel Osage handle with a buffalo horn spacer Geoff
  8. 3 points
    I don't know the actual mechanism, but I suspect it is that the larger grain helps the sparking by being more friable than well-tempered fine grain. It definitely makes bigger, hotter sparks. We made a few strikers out of old files at my local guild meeting a few years ago, and got the best results from wildly overheating them and quenching just the striking face in cold water. A quick snap temper and they sparked like one of those magnesium fire sticks with a good piece of flint. Most modern flint locks for guns are made from cast 4140. If you buy one as a kit you have to harden the frizzen yourself, and they usually recommend case hardening just the face with Casenite compound. The House brothers usually braze a thin piece of file to the frizzen face because they get much better sparking that way.
  9. 2 points
    Hi !! These time i want to show you kitchen's knife blade forge welded of d2 and 304. Hope you will enjoy
  10. 2 points
    Hey guys! I've been playing around with pattern welding since I got my welding forge built. This is my first attempt at a twisted bar of damasscus (15n20+1075), and my first attempt at "wolfs teeth" (with wrought and 1075). It was going to be a seax, but I found a delamination in one of my twist bars, so I lost 1/4 of my steel for the seax. This Is what I could do with what was left. I do like it. There might be some magical legend behind it that I don't know about yet... Could be a suitable KITH knife being that the deadline is so close What do ya think?
  11. 2 points
    The blade for this Bowie is made from 1080 high carbon steel, blade length is 256mm, blade width is 42mm and blade thickness on the spine is 6mm. The blade has been differentially hardened with the surface finished with a hand rubbed 600 grit finish. The overall length of the knife is 404mm including the pommel nut. There are three coined nickel silver spacers, two either side of the gun blued bolster which has one central groove. The gun blued D, Lisch style split ring guard has two clam shells and vine file work on either side of the hand guard tine. The Sambar stag handle has been dyed with Fiebings mahogany brown leather dye and sealed with Danish oil. The butt cap is gun blued steel, filed to match the flutes on the stag and has a planished top surface and is held in place with a gun blued pommel nut.The leather sheath is a Mexican belt loop style with tooled edges, dyed golden brown, the body of the sheath has a front panel of python skin surrounded by a black tooled leather frame.Thank you for taking the time to look gents, as ever all comments and critique very welcome.Steve [u
  12. 2 points
    Tonight, I ground off the scale and did the test etch. Needless to say, I like what I see on both billets. The billet on top has several severe welding defects, so that will be the ring/gifts billet, being that I am making a bunch of small things from it, and can cut out the various bad sections. As for the other billet? Well... it is mostly shaped towards the cutlass. It is going to end up a tad shorter than I wanted, was looking to get around 20", but the blade length is sitting at 17.5" right now. The preform is mostly done, and some weld defects need to be cleaned off before I can forge in the bevels.
  13. 2 points
    Hello: A construction update...well I got the insulation installed..There is so much foil showing that I feel like the world's largest Hershey's Kiss...At least it is keeping all of those e-vile mind control rays out that the gubbermint wants to use to control me....Yeah...that's my story and I am sticking to it...Plus it makes it almost too bright inside with all the lights on..all the reflection and SLTT...but it is done and now I can go onto the other stuff... I already have a good start on the work benches... and I still have like 3 more to make...after that it is tool racks and shelves. We also had the first outbuilding for storage placed..fit in nice and tidy behind the studio.... Anyway that is where we are at the moment.. Put up the new sale prices on my web site for the remaining few pieces...Hopefully I can move a few of those and that will put us over and ready to get the equipment moved down... More as things happen... JPH
  14. 2 points
    Wedge razors are not nearly as popular as the hollow ground forms. However not all razors are fully hollow ground, but they all do come to a very thin edge. Check out the Badger & Blade forum if you want to see what shaving enthusiasts have to say about straight razor blade design. One thing to remember is that the edge geometry is defined by the width of the blade and the thickness of the spine. When you hone a razor, the blade is placed flat on the stone so that the spine and edge are both resting on the surface. Those two points of contact define the angle of the edge bevel.
  15. 2 points
    Alright, so I've finally wrapped up this project. This is Tidr Tonn - the Tooth of Time. It is a knife meant to be worn with traditional Norwegian folk garments for special occasions. Knife weight: 190 grams Blade length: 11cm Blade thickness: 3,5 - 1mm Hardness at edge: 58 HRC Handle length: 10cm The blade body is made from two forge folded and twisted bars of railroad steel (30 layers), and the edge is made out of ferrier's rasps and 15n20. (70 layers) The handle is made from 4,5 billion year old meteorite iron, 7260 year old Siberian bog oak, 10-30 000 year old mammoth ivory, 925 sterling silver and vulcanized fiber. All comments and feedback are greatly appreciated. :)
  16. 2 points
    Today at 12:50 PM #1 At the end of the OKCA knife show I was asked to make an Award knife to be given away to one of several persons that displayed the fantastic knife collections at the 2019 show. I was one of at least a dozen makers that were given a blank of the San Francisco Bowie to turn into a knife. Not sure how they tagged it a Bowie, maybe Bowie is the last name. I guess you could say I made it my way.....
  17. 2 points
    Hi Vern At long last I have about 4 knives "in stock" as it were, the days of cheap knives for friends & family have ended (had to), so pricing is more than ever an issue. I had this conversation with my mentor, he's Swiss and stubbornly prices his knives in Euro, meaning only tourists and rich locals buy his knives. He does however price his targeted hourly income in our currency, and I was surprised to hear he struggles to achieve it despite the exchange rate (14.5:1) and the fact that he grinds an Elmax blade in 15 minutes. I fully understand the concept, and a large part of my pricing is determined by trying to guess how long it should've taken me. I do however feel that I'm dealing with two factors that most my "competition" do not, and I would like your opinion on that. Firstly, as mentioned elsewhere (grinder build), just about everything we use is imported from South Africa. They also often have local availability and very little transport costs - simply everything is cheaper for them. They can have blanks cut cheap, grind in the bevel, outsource the heat treat, put on a nice handle, make a sheath by the time I'm at step two. They also sell for a price I wouldn't get out of bed for, nevermind doing hand sanding. Am I justified in asking more due to difficult operating conditions, or is that my problem? Secondly, all things being equal, let's say 5160 blade and micarta handle, am I justified in charging more for a once-off choose your micarta colours knife vs. a standard model of a custom knife maker. I think about this a lot since knife-making is the closest thing I have to a retirement plan, and so far the "hobby" is a money pit. I'm also 100% sure I would rather emulate the fiery beards here rather than churning out N690 cookie cutters, which would be more likely to support me. I'm living proof that a good IQ does not make you smart or successful
  18. 2 points
    Hi All It has been a while, here are a couple of pieces I made for an exhibition. 1) Deer antler, Gilding metal (tombac) and damascus, total length 28 cm.blade 16 cm 2) Cow horn, Gilding metal, damascus, total length 35 cm, blade 22 cm.
  19. 2 points
    Okay well the first line of defense is tongs. Joking aside, a welding glove on your non-dominant hand is good, and if you keep getting blisters on your hammer hand, some cut resistance level 5 gloves are a good idea too. Stay away from welding gloves with both hands; I believe they can cause carpal tunnel.
  20. 2 points
    In the weeks leading up to the Blade Show, a knifemaker's life gets pretty crazy. One aspect, especially for full-timers, is moving along enough work for customers to be able to stay ahead of the bills while also building inventory for the show. Add to that equipment breakage, injuries, lack of sleep, torrential rains, high heat and humidity, and general bad luck and it's a wonder any of us make it to Atlanta alive and coherent. As part of the pre-Blade balancing, I forged out a couple of big ol' carcass splitters. One was to be a commission, the other table inventory. I let the customer pick which of the two he liked once they were forged out, then finished it out to his taste. carcasssplitters02 by James Helm, on Flickr I'm kind of enjoying shaping the fawn's foot handles on these full-sized carcass splitters. The blades were forged as closely as possible with the power hammer, with a hand hammer used only for straightening. The spines are as-forged. carcasssplitters01 by James Helm, on Flickr Getting the handle wraps epoxied with some other Blade Show inventory. bladeshow11 by James Helm, on Flickr The customer picked the blade with slightly more curve to the profile, and requested hemp cord (over a neoprene foundation) and black paracord Turk's head knots fore and aft. carcasssplitter04 by James Helm, on Flickr I built a Boltaron sheath for it. carcasssplitter05 by James Helm, on Flickr Little hard to see in the picture, but there is more power hammer texture in the blade than usual. carcasssplitter06 by James Helm, on Flickr Big blade! carcasssplitter07 by James Helm, on Flickr Long handle! carcasssplitter08 by James Helm, on Flickr The specs: Blade is forged from 1/4" 5160 steel, is 18 1/2" long and 3 1/2" wide. The overall length is 40 1/4" and the weight is 77 ounces, or 4.8 pounds. It shaved hair cleanly down the full length of the edge. The customer commented upon receipt, "Pics are great, but you need to feel this thing in your hands to appreciate it."
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    You sir, most definitely suck Awesome find!
  23. 2 points
    Byron and Pieter I used natural beeswax (30%) with some candle wax - the kind of softer one. I also used proffesional jewelerry plaster - Kerr cast 2000 (US made) - it is pretty expensive and over here the smallest ammount you can buy is a bag of 22,67kg (50lb). And there is nicely decribed on the package how to mix it with water, how to count the amount of investment to capacity of the flask etc. But, there is NO explaination how to burn the form after the melting wax. And I failed cople of times. Then my wife, who is a ceramist found general principles about burning jewelerry plasters. And it needs to be slowly (let's say 3-4h) heated to 750*C and kept at that temerature approx 2-4h to a flask of diameter of 100mm (4"). So she burned it for me in her kiln. Then the hot form needs to be poured with bronze. Her kiln musn't be opened at high temperatures, so we waited untill it drops to approx 300*C and then I heated id gently in my forge fire just beside the crucible. The crucible was welded of thick walled tube (4mm). I used sipmle bronze recipe: 12% Sn + 88% Cu. Zeb The middle twist bar is richer in carbon. It can be seen just after etching: Darker colour means more carbon: cutting edge, spine and middle, as you can see are darker.
  24. 2 points
    I use a 10 pound sledge hammer head as my demo anvil when I forge on the road. It's about the size of a smaller Japanese anvil. Got mine at ace hardware, it had a broken handle. Got it for $20.
  25. 2 points
    Made some progress I used rayskin for the handle.
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