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  1. Hi guys, Hope you don't mind if I share a big non-blade project I've been doing this Summer. Last Fall I purchased a very abused boat, a Nordic Tug 26. This is a really neat, classic power boat with whimsical lines. Whoever owned her before me was the equivalent of a violently abusive husband. She was so, incredibly beat up. Anyway, I've spent the Summer gutting the interior, painting the interior hull in preparation for a new engine installation, and spending hundreds of hours fiberglassing, sanding, scraping, caulking, painting, and varnishing the exterior. All teak h
    8 points
  2. Alright, so I got a question from a potential customer as to whether or not the knife comes with a certificate of authenticity... given the absolutely horrendous price-tag. -So, I decided to make one. It has been a learning experience, no doubt about that. And after 42 hours of work, here is the result. Draumr Gripnir - Certificate of Authenticity: Specs: Leather: 2mm vegetable tan, dyed and painted with acrylic paint. Paper type: Original Crown Mill 100% pure cotton, 100gsm, Ivory color. Page size: A6 Pages: 48 Metal details:
    8 points
  3. 1080/ 15N20 crushed W's eyed with Stainless fittings and maroon micarta scales.
    6 points
  4. Here is a Chef knife I just finished up today 9 1/4 blade with a 52100 core,15n20 and A203 outer layer with a coffee finish the handle is Box elder and African blackwood.
    6 points
  5. I got an email from a repeat customer asking if I could/would do a damascus bowie and having done a few stainless damascus display knives for him as well as carbon hard use knives I thought it was time to stretch my skill levels a bit. I was given free reign on the whole build so got an okay on costs and sugested a carbon steel damascus blade with a pattern called the Australian river so to carry on the theme which in my mind is dappled evening sunlight over the river with blackened tree stump and branch . Two slices of bronze for the sunlight, a rust blued S guard for the blackened branch,
    5 points
  6. Completed last evening. Puukko: 115mm x 22mm blade with beveled spine and slight drop point. Black ash burl handle with brass bolsters and contrasting ebony.
    5 points
  7. Well, I recently finished a Stitching Pony. And made a holder for the start of what I hope to be a small batch of leather working tools. I blame all you danged enablers for my progress!!
    5 points
  8. As the title suggests, this represents a lot of new things for me... first time casting fittings, first time carving wood, first hollow grind, first double edged blade, first time setting gems, and many more. This is a gift for my mother and was originally conceived because I am obsessed with Jake Powning's work and I desperately want one of his blades, but simply lacked the funds... so in true blacksmith fashion, if you can't afford it, make it yourself. It is of course no where close to the quality of his work, but I am fairly happy with what I ended up with. Made from... 8 rubies 6 sa
    5 points
  9. I finished this one up last weekend I tried some new stuff, carving and using Turquoise and silver. The blade is 410 stainless with a 52100 core and a coffee treatment. Bolster is low layer Damascus with a silver spacer, then the handle is Bog oak with carved flower petals with Turquoise and a silver pin. The stand is Bog oak,silver and Wrought iron.
    5 points
  10. I started getting ready for the next project which includes a knife to with a leather stack handle so made a couple of cutters to make the leather washers. Used a length of heavy wall tube and heated it in the forge to allow for driving it down over the taper, then flattened the sides slightly and sharpen. The smaller one will cut a lightly ovalled disc that is 1 1/8 by 7/8 for the front and rear handle size and the larger one will cut 1 1/1/4 x 1 for the larger center ones.
    4 points
  11. Another stage completed with assembly this afternoon. Marked out the front spacer in a sunburst pattern and did some filing on it, fully shaped the handle and thinned down a piece of 1/8 carbon fiber to 3/32 for the pin, blued the guard before doing the etch on the blade and epoxying it all together.
    4 points
  12. I actually looked up how much 50lbs of silicon bronze would cost. It's less than I thought. Bronze would look really cool, especially with a patina on it. The wear marks would make it even better. Have just looked up weights. Bronze seems to be heavier than cast iron per cubic inch (.307 for bronze vs. .260 for cast iron), so the size would probably have to be reduced a bit, or a bit of a hollow left in the base. I think I could build a custom flask large enough to fit in my burn out kiln and use satin cast. Definitely can't use vacuum casting, so it would just be a gr
    4 points
  13. It finally happened, the smithing has become a job. I've been doing it full time for 20 years and this year I took two months off to work on the house and not once did I feel the urge to fire up the forge. I did some sitting and thinking and realize that a bit of the flame was gone. It will be interesting to see where I take my business, still got to make a living :-) I know one direction I won't be going, I won't be using my time and skill to make things for people who won't pay for that time and skill.
    4 points
  14. Been working on a lot of stuff for other people and decided I wanted to take a break and make something for me. My current EDC that I made 7 years ago, looks like I made it 7 years ago. IMHO I have come a long way since then - in large part from having found this forum. With out further ado, my latest finished piece. Steel is Cru Forge V Length from guard to tip 4 inches Width at widest 1 3/16 inches Thickness at ricasso 7/64 inches Guard is nickle silver and black and red G10. Pin is nickle silver. Wood is Paudauk Constructive critique always wel
    4 points
  15. I hesitate to post my work here as I feel it is far below the level of quality typically displayed. But I am improving with practice. Here are my two latest. Both have birch bark and deer antler handles. The larger one is a “hunting” knife for deer, the smaller one is my take on a bird and trout knife and is my first attempt at forge welding.
    4 points
  16. A few years ago Alan gave me a pipe hawk handle blank which I never got around to making a head for. It's my dad's birthday on Thursday and he smokes a pipe, and has a few pipe hawks he's made from hatchets,, so I decided to make a head to fit the handle and give them to him to finish up. I planned to make it from mild steel, but I couldn't find a suitable piece, so I used wrought. Had a bunch of problems because a.) I was running out of gas, b.) I don't have a drift, and c.) my forge doesn't really get hot enough to weld wrought to itself unless everything is tight and ground clean, which isn
    4 points
  17. There is a little story with this one. This is the end of a billet from several years ago. There was a weld flaw and rather than reshape the blade, I kept grinding at it until it was so thin I threw it into the scrap box to use in a scrapmascus billet. While looking for a scrap to use as a guard, I found it and decided that I could save it. It's razor thin, less than an 1/8th at the spine but still enough to cut. OL 10 1/2" BL 5 7/8th Mastodon bark, rosewood spacer, NS guard, black horn cap and abalone "eyes" Flame Damascus
    4 points
  18. Hello everyone, I plan on making a few saya-nomi soon, and I thought there might be some interest from the bladesmiths on this forum. The price will be around 100 euro/ 118 dollar, and I have no problems shipping all over the world. These curved push chisels have a very special geometry which makes them ideal and very fast for hollowing out wooden scabbards in japanese swords making. I use mine on almost all wood cored handles and sheaths,it is also ideal for making sword and seax handles. I wouldn't want to be without one in my shop, and since they are
    4 points
  19. Greetings folks. I'm not sure where to post this and I'm beginning to think this isn't the right place as I'd love to post in show in tell, however this is a bladesmith's forum and not a luthier forum...... and so..... this is what happened in the shop today, yesterday, and the month before. Knives are being worked on! And Alan, if you feel it's not appropriate, feel free to remove or move to a more appropriate spot! At the end of it all, it's still surreal to think that this was something I've built with my own hands from scratch with minimal tools and no knowledge. It's be
    4 points
  20. @Peter Killham how are your forging skills? I recently took this piece of steel. (Approximately 1"x2.5"x 3/8") Forged this out of it And finished it out like this
    4 points
  21. They don't pay the smiths. They give them mystery steel (or at least they used to, haven't watched in years) and then the smith's reputation gets hurt if they guess wrong and use the wrong quench. I've heard that (at least in the first couple seasons) the shop was very dangerous, with no ventilation. I've had multiple calls/emails from them and I've turned them down every time. I don't begrudge anyone who goes on the show, and it has been good in raising general interest in our craft, so those that teach bladesmithing have a lot of eager students now. But, I think anyone who sign
    3 points
  22. Nothing fancy but It feels quite practical. My friend is leaving the Northern Territory for greener pastures where instead of buffalo and boar he will be hunting deer, goats etc I made this as a parting gift. hope It serves him well. 1075 and antler.
    3 points
  23. Hi all Pig Hunter, 318 layer pattern welded blade. New Zealand Bog Rata, brass guard and pins Total length 32 cm, blade 17 cm
    3 points
  24. I recently have taken up an interest in Swedish collared axes, and have some time now to take a crack at making one. After a lot of searching and a bit of luck/patience I was also able to find an original in my price range, which will be the rough inspiration for this project (though mine will end up being a little lighter). So far so good for my first wrapped axe I would say (though I still need to weld it ). Not shown are the drift and bit I forged as well. I think I may not have as much meat as I want for the blade, though I'll deal with that when I get there. My plan is t
    3 points
  25. Hello all, This is the first knife I've finished in quite some time now. Havent had much shop time lately. Naturally, it shows flaws from me being a bit rusty. I did the stock removal and HT about a year ago, and then it sat on my bench, but I finally finished it. Made from AEB-L, i dont remember the specs of the HT, though i remember giving it a cryogenic bath in pure ethanol (race car fuel) and dry ice. Handle is ebony and purple heart with blue and green spacers and 303 stainless pins. 12 inches long overall, about a 7.5 inch bl
    3 points
  26. 3 points
  27. After getting some handle on few blades for shaping tomorrow morning, I made a start on the knife this thread is about. First step was to cut the blade out of the bar A little bit of surgery was needed on the tang with a short extension welded on and a 5/32 hole drilled and countersunk for a copper rivet later that will be where the 1/8 handle pin goes through I ground the bronze spacer to .155 but have an idea they might be a bit thick for the subtle shine I want them to give. The ebony spacer is about right and the handle blockwas cut with a 6.5 degree an
    3 points
  28. Was leaving the shop to call it a day Sunday evening and to the east I'd noticed a rainbow. Really, I was totally shocked to see the rainbow. Just didn't seem like it rained enough to be seeing what I was seeing. First thing I thought of was to get my camera. I was out for the next 45 minutes taking photo's. All the photo's were taken behind my shop. Both the rainbow and sunset were happening at the same time, just in opposite directions.
    3 points
  29. Aaaand done except for sharpening. I think this one is the best one yet Depending on who you ask it might classify as either a grosse messer or sabre but it's very much a messer in my mind Overall length is 111cm Blade is 83 cm Point of balance is 10 cm from the guard Center of percussion 55cm from the guard right after where the fullers end It has a distal taper from 7 mm at the shoulder down to 3 mm 4cm from the point Weight is 1420 grams You might notice that this is a left handed weapon as I am left handed and even though it will drastically narrow the possible b
    3 points
  30. And this for me is always the most stressful part of the whole thing. I want to get good with leather and even though I know I have plenty of time once wetted and glue applied just the thought of the limited timeframe stresses me out but optimistic about this one as I tried a few new things in the preparation. And now I play the waiting game
    3 points
  31. Filing this is going to take forever The amount of filing people do on these really complex hilts is mind boggling to me
    3 points
  32. Of course we do. I've already got a 10"x12" shed that's full of stuff. If it was only me, I'd have my garage already. But the president of the house wants other things done first .
    3 points
  33. Best description of this year I've found so far!
    3 points
  34. Got the poll and bit welded in, and I think the forging is done! There was a tense moment when I dropped the whole head in my water bucket, but it seems like it's ok . The edge bit and poll are 1075, and the whole thing is pretty heavy, so that may have saved it. I'm going to grind the profile a little bit to check the welds, I thing that line coming from the eye is just there because I didn't blend the weld there as well as on the bottom/bit area. The polls on these seem to have lines chiseled around them, though I may do that with a grinder and file. The plan is to do a bir
    3 points
  35. I've been kind of struggling with getting good heat treats of bigger blades using my normal forge as it's only 50 cm deep and holding blades running them in and out of it is arduous work and runs the risk of getting thinks wonky. So this morning I finally got my ass out of the house to pick up a 55 gal oil drum as I've been planning to make a dedicated heat treating forge for months and it took all of three hours to build Cleaned the drum and cut it right above one banding and a small slice of the banding so the top half fits snugly into the bottom. Measure
    3 points
  36. I have recently learned of this term from my 19 year old daughter, but it seems appropriate. This, sir, is a "flex." Translation: "A gratuitous display of competence in order to quiet any question of your abilities." Speaking in the vernacular of my generation: That's bad ass, dude. Grins, Dave
    3 points
  37. Hello guys, I'm a french guy and i found this forum while searching for some informations about seax typology. And i found so many things ! Big thank you to everyone, but a detail caught my attention : some people were in need on informations about seax scabbard buttons .... and i have some ! But not only about this specific subject : it's a report (totally free and open access from HAL an open acces franch archive) from a find in Erstein in France. The report is about Merovingian warriors tombs from mainly 6th century and their armament. So there's informations about swords,
    3 points
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
  40. The 37 mbar delivery pressure may well be sufficient on its own to explain the poor performance. Things could be looking up. There may be some deviation from normal Gas-Safe practice needed: I don't think LPG necessarily falls within the same regs as mains gas (for anyone reading this outside the UK, "Gas-Safe" is the registration body with which anyone working with mains gas in the UK must be registered). Naturally Aspirated burners use the momentum of gas emerging from a jet to entrain air and mix it with the gas. This means we need a high speed through the gas jet. T
    2 points
  41. I'm not sure I would be in a hurry to make the coating thicker. I got a little carried away with the castable on my last forge project, and the thing takes forever to heat up now. 1/4" would probably serve you well.
    2 points
  42. That and when you go to fire it. Every step do as slowly as possible. A few days air dry. Then light a lazy flame in the forge for a few seconds. An hour later do it again. Then the next day do a couple more lazy flame burns. Then the next day do a lazy flame so the inside gets up to a few hundred degrees. Then the next day do a few seconds of high fire burn to get the inside up to a few hundred degrees. Then get the inside up to just glowing. Then you should be good. Of course, there is a good chance you can do things quite a bit quicker than all that. You just increas
    2 points
  43. Yes. Alcohol dyes are great for leather. And score, man, a showcase free of commission? And, you know, he has a leather sewing machine...
    2 points
  44. The big bonus on this is the mass under the face. I've worked on anvils ranging from 75lb to 450lb, in London pattern, English "colonial," American Farrier, Sawmakers, Continental hornless, North German, South German, and French patterns, and that's just the actual anvils, not including railroad rail, I-beams, forklift times, etc. Of these, by far the worst is the American Farrier pattern, as there is almost no mass under the face. It's all in the horn. On the other end of the spectrum are the hornless anvils, which have all the mass under the face. Since I do things that make a horn and
    2 points
  45. Bienvenidos! Paragon/Soderfors are among the best anvils made. They tend to be very hard, which makes for good rebound, be be careful around the edges. The hardness means you can chip the edges more easily than some. Good score!
    2 points
  46. so I am still pretty knew to knife making and have a limited arsenal of tools. I have enough to get the job done; like a 1x30 belt grinder, angle grinder, hand held drill, files, and sand paper. I heat treat with charcoal and a hair dryer for right now. Long story short, as I am new, any critiques (constructive) of my current works in progress? A chefs knife and a pair of larger pairing knives. Thank you in advance for and help. By the way, I'm using 1084 steel since I'm using charcoal to heat treat.
    2 points
  47. Ahh. Trouble with the corporate office issuing clearance. I know it well.
    2 points
  48. That all depends on how much you charge.......
    2 points
  49. This is a piece from a couple of years ago. A fellow ordered it and then dropped out of sight, so it hung on a hook. I finally got up enough interest to finish it. It still needs a bit of polish here and there and some more Tung oil. OL 27" BL 11 Steel 5160 stabilized walnut and curly maple It's a total beast chopped through 2x4's with no problem and no edge issues, cuts 2 inch alder saplings in a single stroke. It is for sale, but I really don't know what to ask. As usual, thanks for looking Geo
    2 points
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