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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    For many years now I was business partners with Peter Swarz-Burt and watched him making wootz . I learned a ton from him over the years. Well Peter left the shop last June,moved to HI infact. After peter left I got an order for a wootz knife . There were a few bars laying around I could use so I took the job.. the bars failed .. so I began my dissent into wootz making . This is the first piece completed from My wootz
  2. 9 points
    How to Carve Netsuke and Miniature Sculpture: Free PDF Download This is a link to a detailed 361 page instruction book on how to carve netsuke and miniature sculpture. The file is in Adobe Acrobat PDF format.

It requires Adobe Acrobat Reader http://sterlingsculptures.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Carving_Netsuke.pdf
  3. 8 points
    Hey guys! Here is a knife I made as a gift for William Short, the leader of Hurstwic, as a thank you for inviting me to Iceland on an iron making expedition this summer. We went and created iron for the first time since the 1250's in Iceland, after Norway forced them to start importing iron instead of making it. There are however, about a bazillion (scientific term) iron rich streams and bogs in Iceland, and naturally occurring Kaolite, plus many archaeological sites where a lot of iron was produced, such as Eidar where ~1000 tons of iron were produced over about 300 years. Added to the fact that there are other sites where bloomery furnaces are found, on farms with an iron rich stream nearby, and where forest used to be, on a body of water connecting to or on the ocean, it seems iron production and export was very common in Iceland. Bill first got interested in all of this after seeing Eidar, and after some experimenting at home it was time to go. I'll probably post something more about that trip in the bloomers and buttons forum or something, but at any rate! He was kind enough to bring me in as a consultant during the experiments and learning at home, in preparation for the event in Iceland, and he invited me to go with them. As a thank you, I wanted to make him something in the style of what an imagined settler of Iceland could have carried. We had a feast in the reconstructed longhouse of Eirik the Red and gifts were given, which is when I presented this secret gift to him! Without further ado, here's the photo essay! One of the bloomery furnaces we ran at Bills house during the year of prep for the festival. The actual material for his knife came from maybe the second or third smelt I believe. A small collection of the bloom we had made over the year, sliced up into easily workable sections for forging. Most of it was steely bloom as opposed to iron, so this particular material needed a bit of extra careful folding and forging. I chose a piece I liked the look of and began to fold it. Two folds in! Looking surprisingly good considering the nature of this material. Some nice sparks from the bar 6 folds in. After 5 more folds (total of 11) it was ready for forging. I forged and ground the blade quickly and then hardened it in water. You can see the artifacts of hardening, which will be visible in the final product. Skip forward another 6 hours or so, and you have a finished knife! Sitting on a piece of bloom and a chunk of boxwood. I started designing some carvings based off a Norwegian church carving. I designed on the sheath in pencil and then began the carving, the entire process from starting the design to finished carving took maybe 2.5 hours which I am very pleased with! I am beginning to feel more comfortable with these styles of decoration Half way there. Here I am about to complicate the knots on the right side of the sheath nearest where the leather strings will sit, and I chose to make some unresolved lines as well. Most of the period art I have seen seems to have some lines that don't quite go anywhere. I think this is wonderful, and wanted to add some of that into this piece. A shot in more natural light showing how well the stippling brings out the definition in the carving. And done! Aside from dye that is. The runes say who it was made by and for whom. I also added the grace lines, to visually complicate the knots. Above the runes you can see the extra knots I added that aren't resolved. It was definitely odd making the carving 'imperfect' but I quite like the result! Dyed! After a few minutes when it is dry you can buff with a paper towel or some other soft rag to brighten the high spots and matte the lower ones. And some finished shots/video! The second video shows the blade moving in the light a bit, showing the hamon. IMG_2066.mov IMG_2048.mov Anyway, hope you guys enjoy the knife! -Emiliano
  4. 8 points
    Scottish Dirk, 318 Layer pattern welded, sterling silver fittings with Bog Rata handle, I did use some black dye to get the wood a bit blackerTotal length 47 cm blade 33cmI still have to make the scabbard.
  5. 6 points
    Howdy!! Something I whipped out for a show this next weekend... 28" long blade...welded from 1070, L-6 and some meteoric iron in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern...full length fuller each side... Blackened Bovine ivory grip and phosphor bronze and buff horn guard and pommel plates... Didn't come out too bad... Hope the photos work.. JPH
  6. 6 points
    Pattern welded 3 bar Bowie Centre bar Jelly roll mosaic cutting edge 318 layer. Spine and guard mild steel and nickel, Sterling silver fittings and Ringed Gidgee handle.Total length 38 cm, blade 25 cm
  7. 6 points
    Been forever since I've visited this forum. The social media world has completely consumed me. I'm planning to retreat away from Facebook and it's like...and come back to places like this. Anyway. HI! Here is a pic of a knaf...just for giggles.
  8. 6 points
    Just finished my entry for this year’s kith. As the only 2 EDC knives you can really carry in the U.K. (that are not folders) are a Kirpan and a Sgian Dubh I opted for the latter. Folders and a Kirpan are a bit beyond my current skill level. Unfortunately I don’t have any interesting WIP shots as they had to be censored for swearing . Thank goodness for the time extension. I would have finished on the first deadline if it wasn’t for Murphy. The first blade took some belt bump when I got carried away doing power finotiobing. Getting rid of this got the blade too thin. By this time the handle was made. Fitting a handle to a blade seems to be easier than the other way round. The second blade was forged too small, the third ground too thin. Fourth time lucky. Soon I will have some nice small paring knives . The blade is spring steel measuring 2 & 15/16”. AOL is 7”. There is a small false edge and some decorative serrations (firsts for me). The handle is blackthorn with brass and black fibre bolster and spacers and features a (epoxy resin filled) wild boar tusk (another first). I experimented with staining the other tusk with potassium permanganate and sanding the highlights but this didn’t look particularly attractive. The handle is a bit thick for a sgian dubh to be honest but I was limited by the tusk thickness in how thin I could go. Tomorrow I will make a sheath and do the final sharpening.
  9. 6 points
    I made this. The best use of hoof rasps, as far as I'm concerned, although this one was some Korean brand I'd never heard of and was some seriously hard steel. Probably was a good rasp, when it was a rasp... The case-hardened ones from India are much easier to forge.
  10. 6 points
    Just finished this up as an order. 3 1/2" cable blade, red deer coronet handle with carved walnut bolster and obverse, carved walnut scabbard: let me know what you think...
  11. 6 points
    270mm slicer, forged 1080 micarta, NS, and Stabilized Mulberry burl. Pretty much says it all. I need to refine the edge just bit and give it a final polish. This is the first one in a while, other projects keep getting in the way. 1/16th at the tip, 3/16th at the bolster
  12. 5 points
    This is a bit of fun on Instagram, its a 'FIF' type 3 hour challenge, Rules probably don't need explaining - 100% of the proceeds of the auctioned knives to cancer research. the relevant IG pages are SBC are @societyofbritishcutlers comp is @sbc_charity_knife_fight (I'm @non_jic ) My blade so far has a bit less than an hour in it (hence it looking rough as our souls), I forged it in a batch earlier this year, got dispensation to use it as I am between workshops at the moment! - the timbers underneath are the handle options. I might go for the super figured Olivewood to distract from the inevitable sloppy finish on the knife I'm going to pointy the blade up a bit before bevels. At the moment the blade has had a couple of wipes on a 60 grit, and a profile tidy up after forging. I forged to 1.5 mm on the edge so grinding and stone work should be minimal. Ive got an hour and a bit to finish the blade, and an hour for the handle. Fortunately I have a lot of power tools (which still need wiring in due to the shop move) wish me luck
  13. 5 points
  14. 5 points
    Mild steel and Rasp on flat side of blade. I made this as a pre demo for an upcoming demo this coming weekend 10/12. Have not made one in 20 years. 1/2" x 2" by roughly 8" All done by hand. The last few photos of before hardening I was going to change the profile some and decided since it was a practice run I wouldn't bother. I didn't like the profile at the eye to shoulder. To soft for my liking.
  15. 5 points
    Today (and yesterday) was file work on the frame for that handle.
  16. 5 points
    I ended up modifying my original hilt design a little. I'm using some fossil ivory that I got from Charles Turnage while at The Central States Show. From here I will inlay some stainless escutcheons into the ivory. I think that I will grind the fossil ivory from the outside this time in order to get a more uniform white color. (I'm not knocked out with the color of these scales anyway.) You can see that I milled the inside of the pommel pieces (416). This was to help balance the knife as frame tangs tend to get heavy. They will get contoured and a little filework added. The frame tang is made of a center pieces of 416 with the two outside pieces being of nickel/silver.
  17. 5 points
    Today I took this handle to 800 grit, buffed and etched the Damascus spacer.
  18. 5 points
    Connor, if somebody has an issue with your knife they can send it to me and I'll trade them the one I draw. I'd be proud to carry your knife. It takes serious balls to do what you're doing at your age and experience level, and I have huge amounts of respect for you because of that.
  19. 5 points
    Finished this no frills 5.5" petty in 26c3 steel(63-64hrc, yikes!). The first of a batch of three. I tried to focus on ergonomics rather than aesthetic. I find it very comfy and nimble. I will take better pics when it's bigger brother is done .
  20. 4 points
  21. 4 points
    Seeing as how the poll at the moment has blacksmith knife in the lead, I was browsing Google images last night for ideas. I came across an image that was just too perfect, I had to make it.
  22. 4 points
    Forged this one out of 5160. Handle is local Ironwood. Where I am there is a Million Dollar fish competition where they have released 6 tagged barramundi worth a million dollar prize. There are also 100 $10,000 tagged fish. Thought I would need a knife to fillet one if I land one.....I would really enjoy that meal.
  23. 4 points
  24. 4 points
    Two knives from the Celtic-Germanic world ... "Brothers" ... both forged from one rod of welded-fibrous iron, of good quality, not delaminating. Both have cold vaulted cutting edges, to improve hardness ... as in an era. The decorated ridge is longer, 23 cm long, weight 126 grams. The shorter one has a square handle fully decorated, length 21 cm, weight 116 grams. Photos present individual stages of work. Hammer and file ... zero power tools!
  25. 4 points
    “You wouldn’t worry so much about what others think of you if you realized how seldom they do.” - Eleanor Roosevelt
  26. 4 points
    Second prototype: My friend used the last one pretty aggressively over the last few weeks. Multiple animals including an entire elk without sharpening. stats: 80crv2 Scales I think are ebony? It was a random chunk in my small scrap pile. I forged it almost completely to size. Minimal grinding to clean up the flats for the bevel and where the scales glue on. We both decided the last one was too thick so I went as thin as I felt comfortable forging with pretty aggressive tapers. This took about 2 inches of a 1/4” x 1” bar of metal. The knife weighs 2.5 oz. overall 6 3/4” blade length 3 3/4” Any thoughts are appreciated. Adam
  27. 4 points
    A special thanks To @JeffM for the free stabilized walnut! He would not even let me pay for shipping. Bolster is micarta and liners are g10. I profiled three of these and this is the first completed. The customer also commissioned a 8.5" chef which is underway and I'm going to update this post with it later. It's made out of 0.078" 26c3 stock. My Rockwell tester did read between 63 and 64hrc. I normally would not go that high but this steel remains tough enough, even at 65. It has the finest edge I achieved so far.
  28. 4 points
    Here we go another attempt to fold up an axe body. I've planned on this for a long time but my home forge has fallen pretty silent. Today I finally had a little bit of time and a little bit of scrap that just looked like it could work to make the body of the a folded axe, about hatchet size. What I started off with was a cut off of 1 1/2 x 3/8 x . . . . . I didn't measure how long. Yes it's a little bugger, yet the intent was just to practice the offsets of forging out the poll and cheeks. From experience in failure, I know that if you do not make these set downs relatively square, the axe will fold up with the cheeks out of line. Correcting it is a pain, so best to mark out where the first set downs go. Note here there is a minor mistake. When I marked out the poll, I did not add 1/2 of the cheek material final thickness. This means that the poll will be thinner than the body of the axe. I can probably address that, but it's a minor mistake always account for the stretch of the material around the drift. Next I laid out where the set down for the eye will be. At fist I marked out the final dimension, but realized that the material will lengthen a bit, and it's better to have an eye a little undersized that one that is too big for my drift. I got my set downs finished and began to spread the ears of the first side, dressing them back and forth until, I ran out of gas. For my set downs I was using a fuller-ed top tool, then the edge of the anvil. A butcher may have given me a cleaner separation, but still young and very rough. I think it's also good to note when pulling out these cheek pieces, work from the outside of the axe body so that the inside of the eye will be a nice and smooth finish. Last just a quick shot of the set downs. From experience in failure, I can say that when pulling out these cheeks, not to be too aggressive and work them down too thin. I'm leaving these pretty thick. I didn't realize the photo is a little angled which makes those set downs look pretty shallow. I started off making these about 1/3 the material thickness in depth. After the other two processes they are now worked down to about 1/2 the depth. I do not expect to get back to this again for a while, my work life just does not allow me the time lately. So far this little bit of practice looks better than the other 4 I've failed on. I'm going to keep at it next time I get my forge lit, and see if a little hatchet forges out.
  29. 4 points
    I picked up this knife at a rummage sale, thinking it could be fun to fix up. It was in bad shape as you can see. I am looking for a little more information on the knife if anyone out there knows about it. The best I can gather is that it is a Sakai Kikuo knife. I believe it is san mai, but I cannot confirm that. While fixing up the edge/shape I did have to get a little closer to the original maker mark than I liked, but there was no way around it. I refinished the handle with a white ash body and pecan ferrule spaced with 1/32" G10. The pecan has a very cool tigers eye effect I was not expecting. Also, my apologies if the pics appear out of order https://i.imgur.com/j4D4S5A.mp4
  30. 4 points
    Thanks Alan! It's good to be back. This is a really rough version of a previous knife. Was hoping to appeal to a certain market, but I think I miscalculated. LOL I'm trying to dial that shape in, but something just isn't quite right.
  31. 4 points
    Those power hacksaw blades are probably solid M2 HSS. I hear they make good stock-removal knives, assuming you have something that can grind it. I had an incredible score this weekend. A pile of new-to-me equipment. That is a #5 fly press of the type that used to be sold by Kayne and sons. No tooling with it, but that will not be a problem. It weighs in at 440 lbs/ 200 Kg. For reference, that prybar is 22" / 56 cm long . Dunno what I'm going to do with it just yet, but it basically fell in my lap not to be passed up! It got moved in yesterday evening, and it took three large guys to do so even with it disassembled. And, if you look closely, under the stand it's sitting on is a Pexto stake holder with eight or ten holes. Not that I have any sheet metal stakes. Yet.... Then there was this little thing that showed up Monday... That's a mint condition Evenheat KO-18, still in the crate. Well, not anymore, but still... I need to run a 220V outlet and move that 110 to the right past the dartboard, then add heat shielding in the form of thin aluminum sheet behind and to the left of it. This did NOT fall in my lap as such, but I think it will pay for itself once I figure out how to program it. I never thought I'd have anything like it, being a fairly traditional carbon steel and forge heat-treat kind of guy, but this will let me anneal forged O-1 properly as well as HT any stainless I can get my hands on. And just about anything else, for that matter. It's a brave new world out here...
  32. 4 points
    This one is nearly done. 3 1/2" blade of clay hardened 2mm cs70, oak crotch burr handle and buffalo horn bolster: let me know what you think...
  33. 4 points
    Almost there. I've got a little bit of sanding to do, then I can start the final assembly.
  34. 4 points
    Don't think I shared these 2 I made earlier this year, They are Hitachi Blue2 core, with Ni barrier, and a cladding of wrought iron and a high chrome bandsaw blade 'damascus' - from memory about 100 layers per side. The 'K' tip ended up in the scrap pile die to a slight weld flaw, which was a shame as it kind of forged itself to that shape (it was my first 'k' tip!) - Ill make another though. The traditional profile is still waiting for a handle! Both blades are about 220 length. All the geometry is forged in, only the lower bevel ground. They look a bit washed out in the pictures, but there is quite a bit going on in the metal. I will probably re-finish the survivor with a kasumi lower bevel, I did a rough stone finish on it before I went the ferric route, and it looked a lot better than it currently does!
  35. 4 points
    Rubbed in a few additional drops of Lin-Speed.
  36. 3 points
    6.75 inch "Gothic Style" Integral Nakiri:Details:- Hand Forged- 6.75 inch Blade- 2 inch Heel- 4.75 inch Handle- 0 Degree Grind- Damascus Pattern forged from 1080 and 15n20 High Carbon Steels- Partially Hidden Full Tang- Precision Machined African Blackwood Handle for a Pinless Construction- Faceted Front Integral Boster- Gothic Style Faceted Rear Integral Bolster This was my first ever attempt at a feather pattern and as I'm sure some of you know my layer count was too high, and the straight horizontal lamination muddled the effect a bit especially when forging out the blade. Asking $1100 (free shipping within the U.S.) and offer a 10% industry discount for other makers. Contact me at hollandaise.in.the.sun@gmail.com or check out my etsy/instagram for other knives and details. https://www.etsy.com/shop/olympickitchentool and https://www.instagram.com/olympic_kitchen_tool
  37. 3 points
    "How small the pain of one man seems when weighed against the endless depths of memory, of feeling and existence. That ocean carries everyone. And those of us who learn to see its currents move through life with fewer ripples."
  38. 3 points
    I probably can't play this time, but I'll be a bit of a voice of reason. Given that there is only 10 weeks at best to get something done, I would encourage you all to keep it simple. Especially since those 10 weeks will be around the holidays. We had 9 months for the last one, and still had to extend the deadline
  39. 3 points
    And yesterday behind the furnace for the first time since my daughter was born. Another of the big bronze Ommerschans dirks (one more, then I'm done casting these):
  40. 3 points
    Ladies and Gentlemen... Let me present Silf Brandr - the Silver Blade! Blade in a san-mai lamination from a 3-bar multibar billet - making the lamination count a total of 7 pieces. My standard railroad steel for the body, with ferrier's rasps and saw-mill steel for the folded edge-steel, with a core of high carbon tool steel. Handle in African Ebony, American Holly, with spacers of vulcanized fiber and brass. the finger guard is in moose antler. Sheath is in tooled and dual colored leather. Mahogany red background, and antique black stain borders. Stitched with Tiger Thread using saddler's stiches. The handle is engraved with Elder Futhark runes in Old Norse and reads: ek em silf brandr. Burin af eldr ok járn. ávalt hvass ok buin til roðinn. I am the silver blade. born of fire and iron. forever sharp and ready to blood-stain. The knife is incredibly light at only 105 grams, with point of balance being spot on the middle of the finger-guard. The knife can be gripped normally with index finger behind the guard, or in front of it. It is mean to be carried horizontally in the belt, on the left side - with the handle pointing a bit out in front of the stomach. Comfortable positioning, and easy access. Unfortunately the blade came out with a few blemishes in terms of bad welds - but I've made sure they do not pose any threat to the functionality of the knife itself other than being cosmetic. I didn't have the heart to scrap it though... Anyhow, any critique and feedback is as always - most welcome. :) And have a wonderful weekend folks!
  41. 3 points
  42. 3 points
    5160 high carbon, African bubinga scales
  43. 3 points
    I took the idea of Don Fogg oil drum and made it a bit smaller. Took 36 inches of 10 inch diameter duct work pipe with two end caps ( found at a local hardware store), lined everything with an inch of kaowool and 1/4 inch satinite. Put a stubby 1/2 inch diameter Venturi burner at the bottom and got pretty good results. Posted pictures of it in the beginners section as I was asking about the grain I got using it. I’m putting together a 36 inch muffle pipe to fit inside it now. As to what I did in “the shop” today, I started my countdown clock to the weekend. Starting Saturday and going to the following Friday I will be taking blacksmithing classes at a local living history center (Conner Prairie). 9 hours a day for seven days; Saturday and Sunday Damascus, Monday, Tuesday, and half of Wednesday tomahawk and ax making, second half of Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday general blacksmithing. Weekend can’t come soon enough .
  44. 3 points
    Another minute or so on the grinder and this handle is finished with the right shaping faze. Very similar to the knife in the link Zeb posted up there some where. Total of 10 facets.
  45. 3 points
    The first dry fit-up. I think that I'll save the remainder of the handle work to do in my public shop.
  46. 3 points
    I got all of the components except for the pommel nut roughed out and the guard bent after work today. There is still a lot of handle work to get done but it's getting there. There are a couple of minor flaws in the twisted guard but an acetylene torch will take care of that.
  47. 3 points
    I found this forum the other day while looking for ways to improve my multi-tool grinder attachment and decided I should stick around for a while since you all seem to be a knowledgeable group with a great collection of skills. First picture is of the knife that inspired my design. I actually made a knife for my wife that very closely resembles the drawing I made based on this knife. I then traced hers after I got it roughed out because I liked it so much and made a slightly larger version for myself. I intended for it to be a more exact copy but ended up leaving more material on it all the way around. As with my first round of knives I made most of these were intended to be Christmas gifts so I was a little limited on time which is why I'm just now getting back to working on mine 9 months later. You can see I loosely based the shape of the handle around the inspiration but I changed up the blade shape a fair bit (IMO). I really like the way that the scales projected into the oversized choil and ran with that as the focal point of the overall design. I like how it affords a good forward grip on the knife for choking up on the blade. Overall I was pretty happy with how hers came out other than the handle needs some improvement/ refinement. (I'll try and remember to get some pictures of hers to add to this thread for reference. It didn't come out bad but it would have been better if xmas wasn't fast approaching when I was finishing it.) Below you can see the group of knives I heat treated in that batch, all O1 steel that I bought precision ground. I had a good mix in there, everything from a pry tool bottle opener thing to hunters and a kiridashi like blade. A keen eye will note that in my haste I forgot to file the jimping into my hunter although my wife's is jimped. I've been using WD-40 when hand sanding the blades and it seems to help the paper last a little longer. Strange stuff happens with suspended metal particles in oil on a magnetized blade. Do blades often become magnetized like this? Scale cleaned up after heat treat. Polished (I've since sanded the blade again, I think it looks better than the polish did. Possibly because the polish was less than perfect.) This is some prelim design work for the handle. I've decided not to attempt to copy the carving on the scales but I was playing with the idea in the below sketch. IIRC the scale material I picked out for this knife is Gaboon Ebony I got from Bell Forrest. Up until this point those are all pretty old photos from either late 2018 to early this year. From this point forward you're seeing what I've done in the last week or so. I decided that the black scales on the polished blade might be a bit boring and decided to add a liner to them. I thought about just doing a layer of brass but I decided to go ahead and add a layer of red micarta between two layers of brass. (.010" brass, .030" micarta) I spent some time getting the scales flat on one face and gluing up the liners (is that the correct term?) then brought them to work to drill on the mill. I don't have a drill press at home and the last ones I hand drilled came out a little bit off. The blade now has a 600 grit finish on it but I'm not sure how far I'll end up taking it. Beginning to rough shape the scales. Where I ended up last night. This ebony is a filthy wood to work with, makes an absolute mess of me and the shop. I screwed up a little bit last night. I got a little ahead of myself and glued the scales on after I got to this point. It would all be fine and dandy if I didn't have more sanding to do on the blade. Oh well, it will just take a little more work to protect the scales and not make swirly scratches where the blade meets the scales. I doubt I'll make any progress tonight as I have some other errands planned but I'll keep you all posted as I make progress. Thanks for checking out my project let me know what you think.
  48. 3 points
    OK, it isn't pattern welding, but the similarities won't be lost on this crowd. Apparently there are areas of rock where layers of iron and other contrasting materials were laid down. These layers were then manipulated by geologic forces over a couple billion years to produce some striking patterns. I didn't know this was a thing. I'd love to see this in person some day... http://www.gigapan.com/galleries/7754/gigapans/94833
  49. 3 points
    Next the curve back needs attending to and again hot fingers require a number of dips in the water bucket. Finish shaping is done on the 2 inch mandrel I had made so it was time to replace the 80 grit paper I have this block clamped to the drill press table as it allows for 2 inches of wind up adjustment before I have to add another block under it but with a 6 inch tall mandrel it allows a reasonable ammount of sanding before the paper needs changing. I get quite a few bolster sets out of the paper for the horn bolsters but for the metal ones I still get three sets and it dosent take much to shange the paper. The spray adhesinve holds well and is reasnably simple to remove with thinners and a rag with a bit of a rub. With pins removed I have a set of bolsters ready to fix in place. These ones will be done wit brass pins to have my 3 dot mark subtly visible in the stainless bolster. Customers have made this request on a number of the curve backed bolstered knives when discussing upgrades
  50. 3 points
    After changing the both the blade & handle multiple times, here's the completed cutter that I will be taking to the show: (W1 blade/checkered bocote handle)
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