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  1. 10 points
    Id like to credit this award to all the foundation work and help i acquired over the last couple years directly from this forum! Without you guys I don't know how far i would have progressed but i wouldn't be where i'm at for sure. Anyway, Im still in shock. I wanted to show and give credit to Alan and salem and the other 100 guys on here that have given me A LOTTTT of their time answering dumb questions. Also, to encourage the newer guys to keep cranking out stuff and trying and making knives! 320 layers Laddered (appears random until you see the chatoyance) -trippy forged integral 2.5" tall at the heel 9.25" long Amboyna 5 stack of g10 spacers 5.5 oz
  2. 9 points
    Hello!! Here are a few pieces I whipped out this last week or so....yes I committed forgery! All are hilted with some of my Bovine Ivory (I love using that stuff..very nice material when done right)... Pic heavy so...with out further adieu ..away we go!! JPH
  3. 9 points
  4. 8 points
    I have been playing with feather patterns recently, started up looking at illerup idal blade fern patterns and later evolved to a feather pattern , trying to get a stand alone feather...Its been fun. and has lots of spin offs running in my mind. firy , flamy frondy stuff!
  5. 8 points
    I've been wanting to make one of these for ages and finally got around to it. The body of the knife is made from 2mm thick copper sheet which I've beaten and filed the top then applied liver of sulphur to patina the surface. The blade is made from Shiro 2 with a white paper steel core, blade thickness is 3mm, blade length is 75mm, that's cutting edge, overall length of the knife is 186mm and the closed length including the flipper is 135mm. I've called her Tombo, dragonfly, I hope you like her. Thank you for taking the time to look guys and all comments are really appreciated. Steve
  6. 7 points
    I've been working on a second slip-joint, and decided to try a bit of filework on the spring Here is the blade for it...
  7. 7 points
    It's been forever since I posted, but I am still forging. I wanted to share my first attempt at a mosaic pattern. I have two more large bowies I was able to get out of the billet, but this was the first knife I forged from that bar of steel. What do you think?
  8. 7 points
    Hi all. Just finished this set of kitchen knives off. 9" chefs, 6" utility and a 6" k-tip. All out of 1070 with muwanga for the handles. The leather was a real mission. Each sheath has a double welt over 8mm thick. As always thoughts and critique welcome
  9. 7 points
    The finished knife along with another chunk of the meteorite. Hope that you enjoyed the trip through this one.
  10. 7 points
    I see all you responsible adults managed to avoid making the very obvious joke that goes with this thread title
  11. 6 points
    Alright, so I've finally finished the latest knife... I've named it Járn Haukr - Iron Hawk - with it's handle shaped like that of the body of a bird - with a nice fat chest for good grip. The blade is in bog iron from old tools made by the workers in the Silver Mines of Kongsberg city in Norway. This makes out the body. The edge steel itself is folded and twisted saw-blade steel from an old wood mill and 15n20 for contrast. The edge steel hardened nicely, and ended up at 58 HRC. The handle is in a solid piece of stabilized maple, with brass and vulcanized fiber spacers with a nice piece of mirror polished copper for the bolster. This knife was made extra large and thick in order to accomodate the oversized hands of it's owners, so I took inspiration from some of the more American Bowie style sheaths I've seen on this forum - and made a massive sheath as well. The sheath is 5 layers of leather, died in a deep dark red with brown borders. The iron has some cracks in it - but this is the best I was able to do with the material at hand. If I had more - I suppose I could have kept refining 3-4 kg. down to something a bit more useful. I feel however - that from a historical perspective - it is quite fitting like this. It will be handed over to it's new owner this afternoon. As always, any critique and comments are more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  12. 6 points
    A copy of 6th century English archaeological finds, staring from ore. The finished blade. Heterogeneous bloomery steel blade, horn handle (drilled + burned in hidden tang). A closeup of the other side of the blade. This billet is only 18 layers--I wanted to maintain the messy metallurgy we see on so many of the originals. I smelted the iron back in March. Unlike my first half-successful try, this smelt went well. I got a nice, steely 14lb bloom. (This photo’s from the preheat, just before I switched from wood to charcoal.) Obligatory photo of the slag tap, near the end of the smelt. The 14lb bloom of new iron, birthed (via c-section) from the side of the furnace. The bloom was steely already, but I decided to do a hearth melt with some of the scraps that fluffed off it while I was compacting the main part. I tossed those scraps into a charcoal hearth, and got a nice lump of much more consolidated steel from it. The smaller bloom from the hearth melt, and the billet into which I forged 1/2 of it. I forged that billet into a blade! Polished and etched. I love the textures of bloomery steel.
  13. 6 points
    Blade inlays: Campo de Cielo Meteorite & W1 Remainder of blade: 1084 powder Handle Scales: Walnut Burl w/faux ivory (Arvorin) inlays Fittings: 416 stainless
  14. 6 points
    So this is the first blade I forged (final shaping and bevels anyway) with the dogface hammer I made a while back... started with 3/16X1-1/2 1095 bar stock. I forged in the bevels, then ended up deciding to do a full flat grind. Not at all because the bevels weren’t even and I didn’t want them to keep chasing them upward on blade. Nope, wasn’t because of that at all Anyway, I do think I’m starting to make some improvement, or it could just be confirmation bias on my part lol. I did a 320 grit finish on the blade, 220 on the G10 scales for grippyness. Pretty sure that’s the technical term
  15. 5 points
    Hi all. So, when someone asks what you do, do you pull out one of your own knives? If you do, do you have to preface it with "well it was one of my very first knives" or something like that? That was my issue. My EDC was my second ever forged blade. It's a great performing knife, but it's not exactly a great looking knife to show potential customers. So I made this. Should fix the problem. Steel is 1070 with hamon. Wood is African blackwood (dalbergia melanoxylon). Brass pins. To be honest, minimal amount of forging. Mostly constrained to straightening before heat treat. As always, thoughts and critique welcome.
  16. 5 points
    Some quick iPhone pics to prove it so I can finally say this project is DONE! Summer gets crazy busy with almost no shop time but I eked out enough time to put on the finishing touches. I think I’ll try to get some good pictures and then these go to the intended recipients. Without further ado: Pretty proud of the result. Quite a few things I will tweak on the next go around. Always room for improvement. Hope you all enjoyed the WIP. Adam
  17. 5 points
    Time for another project. The blade is a simple hexagonal/diamond rapier blade and almost finished: The hilt, however, is going to be one of the most time-consuming and elaborate designs that can be found on a sword like this. There have been only few cutlers who did this design, mostly in France and northern Italy. I am going for a hybrid between these two: The chains on the sides of the bars are the most intimitating part. Here are some pieces to test the process of making them (with a rough finish and the cutouts for the "scrolled face" begun): How would you go about making this? Just curious if there is a more efficient way, especially for the inside of a curve!!
  18. 5 points
    Hello Everyone, I am working with Scott Rodell. He designs them, I make them. I can only make two or three per year. Here is the latest. I hope you like it!
  19. 5 points
    Finished up a new mosaic bar this morning. This is destined for a number of smaller knives I have in mind so I was looking for a finer pattern. I had some issues with controlling the pattern on one of the 4-way welds, so it ended up being a bit random, but it's kind of pretty.
  20. 5 points
    I present to you - the latest Deer-Hunter - Yggdrasil laufsblað - Leaf of Yggdrasil! Blade in 3 bars folded and twisted steel. 100 layers of folded railroad steel for the body, and 60 layers of ferrier's rasps and 15n20. Handle in Chestnut with core of Holly, w. spacers in vulcanized fiber. Front part of handle is Mammoth Ivory, with spacers of vulcanized fiber and brass. The Holly is engraved with Elder Futhark runes in Old Norse. The poem is taken from Grímnismál verse. 33 - Codex Regius and pertains to four deer that eat from the leaves of Yggdrasil - the world tree. This knife will be used - shock - for hunting deer. As always, any feedback and criticism is heartily welcome! Sincerly, Alveprins.
  21. 4 points
    Spear with a ball, length 54.5 cm, width 3.5 cm, hole 2 cm, weight 410 grams. Knife, length 41.5 cm, width 4 cm, weight 320 gram. Javelin, length 19 cm, width 2.5 cm, hole 1.8 cm, weight 110 grams. Ax, profiled, eight-wall, 16 cm long, blade width 4 cm, hole 2.5 cmX 3.5 cm, weight 390 grams.
  22. 4 points
    Hmm, all I see is a damn good knife maker showing off. That is essentially quilting with steel...
  23. 4 points
    This is a bit of a cross post, but not everyone hangs out in the KITH section, and I would like some feedback on how to improve my technique on this one. I made a slip-joint for my KITH contribution this year. The WIP can be found here: Here are a few finished pics. Please critique away
  24. 4 points
    Tried something new, the handle and sheath is from the same brown Linen, but the handle was a rolled micarta and the sheath normal flat micarta so unfortunately not quite the same effect. Still, I think it worked, just needs a leather frog and retention strap
  25. 4 points
    Ah, but that is another beast entirely! And it is also where experience with unknown steels helps immensely. When you make your own steel, you become the metallurgist. With smelted steel from ore you can usually find out the ore composition from your state geological survey. You can count on low manganese unless your ore is from a mixed bank (the manganese is usually under the iron bed, and the two seldom mix in a single rock), and even then it is difficult to get the two to combine in a smelt due to different smelting conditions required for each. The only thing you have to watch for is phosphorus, and high-P ore is not that common. And you'll know you have high-P bloom as soon as you try to forge it. You will not get chromium, nickel, or copper. Even the gossan ore from the Copper Basin in southeast TN was segregated from the copper despite forming as a cap atop the copper body. You won't get sulfur as long as you stick with charcoal for the fuel. Even with titaniferous magnetite you will lose the titanium to slag (often freezing up the furnace in the process, Ti slag is thick and gooey and freezes at a higher temperature than iron slag). In other words, you can count on it being an almost pure iron/carbon alloy unless you're using high-P ore. Hearth steel is a bit different, as you can add modern alloys to the melt. Emiliano's work in that area seems to indicate you can even count on losing much of the carbide-formers during the melt. Crucible steel is another thing entirely, and I don't know enough about it to offer meaningful commentary. But yes, homemade steel is an exercise in estimating carbon content and finding the best heat treatment for the steel at hand. You often have to water-quench from a higher temperature than you'd expect to get good hardening because it's so shallow-hardening. The short version of all the above is it pays to have a lot of experience with unknown steel if you're going to try homemade stuff. This is a lot different than trying to get that experience without having first gained knowledge of known alloys to smooth the extremely steep learning curve. It's a lot like playing with old wrought iron. We all know that wrought does not improve a blade no matter what you do to it. Those of us who use it, and who dabble in homemade steels, understand it is not a superior material in any way. We do it for historical purposes and because it's just so darned cool to be able to say "I made that from a pile of rocks." In that case, the customer knows what he or she is getting. That is different from saying "I made that knife from an old bed rail that seemed to be high carbon steel." I know I seem to be waffling on the subject, and I apologize. It comes down to my personal opinion that new makers are best served by learning on known alloys before they branch out into the hard stuff. Once you know what you're doing, then you can experiment on toilet snakes and hearth steel made from bottle caps. I know I have been humbled by wrought iron more than once, and it will happen again. By all means, do what you want. Just be honest with yourself and your customers. Plus it's easier for me to help troubleshoot if I know what steel you used...
  26. 4 points
    Went through some serious head banging moments with getting the fit right, but it turned out to be really fun once I got it started right. I used Applewood for the handle, they were the only blocks of wood I had around that were wide enough to work, and brass pins. The two top holes in the tang were unfortunately drilled lopsided before I received the blade. I attached the pommel by pins and epoxy.
  27. 4 points
    Finished making the Habaki. I left the shoulder with a hammer finish and quenched the copper in oil to give a nice leather colored tarnish
  28. 4 points
    Just finishing this up. Higonamaki inspired folder, with folded brass handle, carbon steel blade, and copper accents: let me know what you think...
  29. 4 points
    As I'm saving most of the handle work on my latest to be done in my public shop, I decided to get a start on a new mosaic billet today while at home today. This mosaic pattern requires starting with two initial billets. The larger one will get turned into a "W" pattern and the smaller one will provide a different pattern which after being 4-wayed will show in the center of the pattern. Here you can see that I ground off two edges from the smaller billet. This billet had two layers of 15N20 separated by one of 1080 in the center and 4 layers of 1080 on each side. By grinding this way and then forging it flat I got the 15N20 layers to form an arc. After I fold this over on it's self it will give me kind of a cat's eye pattern. This will get three layers of "W" welded to one side of it, squared on the bias and then 4-wayed. Hopefully I'll get a little more done on this one tomorrow.
  30. 3 points
    Here is a pair of drop point's I've been working on for a viewer of mine. He has asked for a matching pair of identical twins (which is a daunting task). If you are making a single blade, and make a mistake, you can easily adapt. But if you need identical twins and make a mistake on one, you've gotta make that same mistake on the other! Anyway, he has dubbed these knives "The Dingers". They are 1/4"x1.5" 5160. You can see how I bolted them together to get matching profiles (and thats why in a couple pics they look EXTRA thick). I chose to do a full flat grind on them, as well as drill some tang holes for some weight reduction. I hardened them in my little coffee can forge and tempered them down with 2 hour-long cycles at 375F. Currently, the edges are sitting at about 1.4mm thickness, and I'm contemplating how to finish that edge off. Should I stick them back on the grinder (in my jig) to get an apex? Should I adjust my jig angle and create a secondary bevel? I just think it would be hard to use a stone to remove that much metal at the edge. Any help is appreciated. Oh... handles will be a stacked setup of 1/32 coyote brown G10, 1mm fluorescent white G10, 1.32 coyote brown again, then OD green canvas micarta. 08.mov
  31. 3 points
    My latest project: 95mm Scandi ground blade, brass bolster with peened finish, black fiber spacer, padauk handle and bison leather sheath.
  32. 3 points
    Been working on this one for a while, I probably reetched it and polished it enough to finish 6 blades. W2 steel ( Aldo's ) with peened brass bolsters and Black Palm scales with Brass pins. As you can see I got a bit of cleanup to do on the blade as it did get a bit of gunk under the tape while I was working on the handle then I am going to buff the handle and bolsters and sharpen this one up and give it a whirl.
  33. 3 points
    Thanks Ken. The blade was dead straight until I water quenched in my clawfoot soaking tub. I ended up with 0.75" of sori. I just forged out a Tsuba from a piece of wagon wheel.
  34. 3 points
    It's starting to look more like a knife: The more I look at this pattern, the more I see a pair of dinosaurs getting ready to attack each other.
  35. 3 points
    I got married back in October and made my own a wedding ring, pattern welded Iron/nickel, 18ct yellow gold rails and sterling silver lining, to save a bit of money, I am Dutch after all. Richard
  36. 3 points
    Welded....Here's my first look at the pattern: It appears that I got 100% welds throughout on this one. I think that I'll take a break before forging it into a blade and do a little more designing. I'm pretty sure that I want a Bowie out of this one but am not sure if I want to do it modern or traditional.
  37. 3 points
    I made the purchase of a lifetime!!! For a total of $7420.40 USD I bought the 40 kg/88 lb self contained power hammer this does not include duty fees/taxes at the border. I was going to start this thread when I go to pick it up but I'm too excited to hold off! So far if my wifes enhanced license comes in by June 28th were going to get it that weekend. The machine on the left is the one I'm getting. It stands 70 inches tall and weighs 2280 pounds.
  38. 3 points
    Here's what yesterday's efforts yielded me. Once I weld the two halves together I will probably square this one the bias before adding it to my other design in a 4-way. It's purely by chance and not predetermined but I believe that the pattern has taken on a bit of a Navajo or Southwestern look to it.
  39. 3 points
    A couple of weeks back my cousin had a notice from the power board that the very large oak tree on the edge of their property was going to need trimming to keep it from the power lines. They quoted over $2000 for the work so it was decided to take the tree down altogether so I got a call to see if I wanted some of the crotch pieces which I duly went and collected. This morning I set too with the chain saw and slabbed it into more manageable pieces then between the bench saw and the draw saw I got it cut down into drying blocks. I will paint the ends to prevent too much cracking but I expect it will be at least 12 to 18 months before it can be made into handles but there is some nice pieces to look forward too.
  40. 3 points
    Found this 1904 video and thought I'd share. I believe this to be the 150-ton double-frame steam hammer Westinghouse used in the 1880-1930 period. Watch the guys with the fullers, and the guys who sweep the scale off the anvil with flaming brooms...
  41. 3 points
    I've been distracted by working on other projects but got this one to the first dry fit-up today:
  42. 3 points
    I think part of the problem here is a bit of a misunderstanding. First of all, I think we all need to agree on what we mean/think when the term "edge packing" is used. My understanding is that this has historically been used to describe "packing the atoms at the edge closer together", thus improving the quality of the edge. This is complete nonsense, and as such "edge packing" is not really a thing. As I understand what Sean is saying, his "edge packing" is not that at all. Sean is in fact mechanically refining the microstructure. The degree to which this is being done and the actual benefits of it are another matter, but I only want to make sure we're all talking apples to apples here. It is important to note that mechanical grain refinement is a thing, and its effects carry on to affect grain refinement through heat treat. Generally speaking, it is preferred by makers (here at least) to have consistent properties, so a triple normalization is used to ensure uniformity. He is also work hardening, but that is completely irrelevant as the hardening cycle is over-riding that work hardening. As I understand his description of what he is doing (and Sean, please do correct me if I am not properly describing what you are doing/saying; I'm not trying to put words in your mouth at all), he is working the steel along the edge while the metal is a mixture of ferrite and carbides. The ferrite is being squished out of the way between the carbides, thus there is a higher density of carbides along the edge. He then proceeds directly to a hardening heat treat cycle, presumably with tempering to follow. To really see what is going on with the microstructure, it would be best to be at least 2000x magnification (I like to use a 100x objective with 20x eye-piece/camera lens, etched with nital).
  43. 3 points
    Here was another odd ball project Iv partially finished up. I inherited a celtic leaf shaped blade roughed out from a leaf spring with a plasma cutter from a friend who was moving a while back. I forged it out to adjust the proportions and rough ground and heat treated it with a pretty minimal setup. It took a few kinks in hardening which mostly came out after clamping in the second temper. It just barely fit diagonally in my kitchen oven. I ground the convex fuller in with an angle grinder mostly after heat treating. The handle was carved in yew sap wood for the scales and heart wood for the pommel. Blade was rust browned to look very vaguely like bronze. At some point I want to do a matching russet steel sheath in a La Tene style, but that may take a while to get to. Hope someone finds it of interest.
  44. 3 points
    Now that I have the blade and handle scales done, it's on to handle fittings. I'm going to change direction a little on the hilt and not use the ball tip guard. I think that I'll go with a classic oval guard with filework to match the handle spacer.
  45. 3 points
    Thanks! Thanks! Its my favorite of the two. It has also been somewhat more pleasant to work on. Now, some more progress! First I sanded the carving knife handle through 220 grit, then I marked and cut the first notch. I decided to changed to wider rounder notches, partially for looks and partially because the edges of all of my needle files are too torn up/rounded off to make a decent square notch. The big notch was made with a half round file. This was fun, and took a surprising amount of time. I took a bunch of pictures at the different stages of shaping/sanding this handle, but you can't tell the difference so you'll have to trust me when I say it took a few hours. The angles are very tight, so a lot of the work was using either folded sand paper or wrapping it around the very ends of files. Here are the results! I'm going to try and make a sheath for the carving knife, other than that and a few coats of oil it's finished. The big one still needs a wooden end cap to cover the rivet, then it will be all done. I'm going to try to make a sheath like the very elaborate one of the original, and definitely won't be able to get it done in the next two days while also doing the other things I want to get to. Also, the sun's supposed to finally come out tomorrow, so hopefully I can get some better lighting for more pictures.
  46. 3 points
  47. 3 points
    I actually worked mixing sound for GC & the P-Funk Allstars once.
  48. 3 points
    Same here. And when you think about it, "freehand the groove" would be a great funk band name! Somebody call George Clinton...
  49. 3 points
    Not today, but over the last couple of weekends, I made this: What does it do? Well, when you weld it to the top of an old oxygen tank and hang a disk of wood in it, it turns it into a bell. Then I needed something to hang it from, so yesterday I made this: You can't see it for some reason, but the whole bracket is forged from 3/8" x 1". and there's a sharp step at the base of the fleur-de-lis where I fullered in a groove and then flattened the bar out sideways to about 3/16" to get the width I wanted. I still need to clean it up and paint it.
  50. 3 points
    I made myself a hammer I´ve wanted for a long time: an english style dog head hammer. Forged from 60mm square c45 steel (1045 basically) with a curly walnut handle, just because I wanted to be fancy. weight is 1500 grammes so about three pounds. This thing was a lot harder to forge than a normal hammer, the wedge shape keeps trying to shoot away under the hammer. Good thing I also have a grinder It feels nice to forge with so far, I have to see how I like it when I start forging a new knife.
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