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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
  2. 7 points
    Just finished this up as a present for a friend. Heat blued and lacquered 1095 with a forged copper pommel: let me know what you think...
  3. 7 points
    Preparing for the final assembly.
  4. 7 points
    Hi !! Ive already end this one :D steel: 420mv + 80crv2 as core handle: wenge + tigerwood Guard: soldered stainless steel Cooper on blade is some kind of etching. i hope you will enjoy :)
  5. 6 points
    Boy oh.. so this one is an odd duck for me. The blade is leftover bits I had from other projects past (3" blade 7 1/4" overall). It's a four bar construction. The spine is wrought iron, the second bar is 1095 and 15N20, and the edge is 1084. The ferrule a sandwich of wrought iron and brass silver soldered. The handle is stabilized quilted maple. The sheath is hand stitched tooled (I'm still getting this down) veg tan leather. It was a fun knife to put together and I pushed every comfort zone I could on it. It's up on Etsy if anyone is interested. Thanks for looking!
  6. 6 points
    Here's where I left this! Got some carving done today.
  7. 6 points
    5 of 6 are now done. One is on the injured/reserved list after a catastrophic bluing accident.
  8. 6 points
    Spring 2020 puukko production
  9. 6 points
    Forged this one up from an oversized horse rasp our farrier uses on the heavy horses. by no means fancy but will serve its purpose. With a long handle it will stay in my boat.....just in case!!
  10. 6 points
    Today I found an old friend that I thought I had lost. It's probably been a decade since we travelled together. He was covered in muck and dust, but he cleaned up really well!
  11. 6 points
    Copy I made of an original 19th century Bowie by the Memphis Novelty Works. Hand forged and ground blade Fifteen inch long with both hollow and convex grinds, aged to match the original. Hand cast bronze sturrip-hilt and mahogany grip. Tinsmithed scabbard with leather lining and pinstriped japaning. www.irontreeforge.com
  12. 6 points
    It's been a long time away from this forum. Life has truly gotten in the way. But now, I figured I'd stop in and say Hi to all you wonderful people in the craft. Anyway.. Sometimes it's difficult to do less. This knife has been on my desk for rather a long time now. From conception it was the plan for it to have a piece of reindeerantler in the front so that I'd have something to engrave. In fact I've been looking forward to doing it, since it was a rather long time ago I did a serious work of antler engravings. I spent such a long time fiddling with it, drawing designs on the handle. Doodling on pieces of paper. But no matter what I did, I couldn't come up with anything that would add, not detract from the elusive thing that we call: The Whole. This is a slightly frightning and rather uneasy feeling for someone that looks upon oneself as an engraver. But I eventually found the courage to listen to what I guess I deep down had known from a long time. Thus, I give you this. And no more. But in showing a knife that has been worked less. I hope to show you something that is in itself, complete. Damasteel Vinland, Antler, Birch and birch bark.
  13. 6 points
    once a wizard gives it to a hobbit... Edit: I really should have added that is a really nice start on a blade no matter what you call it. @Bjorn Gylfason
  14. 5 points
    Low layer Damascus, vinegar etched, wired wheeled and buffed. Thanks for looking
  15. 5 points
    Some handles off the belt grinder and ready for some hand work. Chef with lacewood J T Ranger with Gidgee pigsticker with (purple dyed) gidgee. Dye did not show till I cut and sanded it. PH EDC with quilted macrocarpa over buffalo horn A Safari with acacia over brass Mini bullnose with tasmanian blackwood over paper micarta mini skinner with desert ironwood mini skinner with lacewood.
  16. 5 points
    Alan has the book. Now that you have an anvil, beware: They can become an addiction. Just ask @Jeremy Blohm.
  17. 5 points
    This type of blade construction was rather common in early medieval in central and northern Europe during Viking age. The blade consists of three parts: high carbon steel on the cutting edge, a twisted pattern-welded bar in the middle, and a simple pattern-welded bar on the back of the knife. To forge it I used a scrap metal (as usual in my projects) but this time the scrap metal was very special. I used old bloomery iron and wrought iron nails/bolts/rivets which were found in the Dziwna River in Wolin in the place of the old shipyard/harbor during the building of the new marina (Wolin is the historical site (Viking age city)), every new investment must be supervised by archeologist. This was also the case here but they were not interested of nails :-), so I collected it.
  18. 5 points
    So, I have a bit of an ADHD problem. It manifests badly in my bladesmithing as a failure to complete projects. Especially those I feel are too flawed to warrant completion. Recently I made a deal with myself to separate my numerous unfinished projects into groups with attached priorities, and create a rule: "No new project will begin without first clearing a project from the pile, then shuffling one of the lower priority projects into the spot that just got cleared." This arrangement seems to be working. ...then this week I decided to game the system... By my count, this clears about six slots.
  19. 5 points
    I recently posted an Anglo saxon style seax blade that i had fitted and finished. This time its a blade that I forged myself, 3 bar construction (random, pinstripe, twist). the blade style isn't historical, it is my own design, and the handle isnt historical either, it is in art deco style. I expect the aesthetics to be divisive, but i like the fact that this is, as far as i can tell, a fairly original style. I haven't seen anyone make this style of layered handle although these days very little is truly original, i'm sure someone some where has done this before! The concept was a sort of spread of sunrays, a theme common in art deco. the bolster and the three layers all theoretically meet at a single point above the blade (although the eagle eyed will notice the brass layer is a bit misaligned, so they dont. that was due to covering a mistake in cutting.). The layers are solid fine silver for the bolster, brass, nickel silver and then copper. again the gold/silver/copper combo is typical for that art style. the buttcap is also solid fine silver and slightly domed. The handle started off with these components. The layers are all solid, all the way through, and the tang as forged was no way near long enough to go through the entire handle, as would be necessary to make this construction strong enough. I also dont own a welder, and in the middle of the pandemic, i didnt have access to a welder. so, i had to do something quite wierd to give the handle sufficient internal strength and support. i had to make a pinned tang extension. Constructing the handle like this meant gluing in two stages. first the bolster and 4 successive layers, then, the pin joint and the rest of the layers excluding the butt cap. complex as hell. how i wish i could have just welded an extension! Anyway, it worked, and all is well that ends well. I love the clean, geometric look. the wood has polished up really well, and the metal stripes are lovely. I filed a channel into the bolster because it was too blocky, and i'm happy with that last minute addition but other than that, i managed to stay faithful to the origional concept. So now i have two seaxes, very different styles, and all i can do is think how would i do a third one. Is this an illness?
  20. 5 points
    hi, Interesting commission work - Timber Framing Slick 3" Hand forged chisel blade from spring steel, handle from beech, leather mask. Total length 762mm, blade length 254mm, blade width 75mm, handle length 355mm. Thanks Jacek
  21. 5 points
    Thanks everyone. It went well. I was under from 7am till about 5pm. Doc said it was textbook and almost boring. Last night was terrible. Nausea and vomiting was bad but the pain from midnight till about 6am was worse. Oxycodone nor morphine would help. I gritted my teeth for 6 hours. They gave me to toradol at 6 and I started feeling movement in my bowels. I guess it was pressure. Not had any pain meds since and slept most of the morning. Keep praying. I have a long way to go.
  22. 4 points
    This has been hanging around, waiting for the right handle to come along Damascus OL 9 1/4" BL 5" Mastodon and black fiber liners Pretty simple G
  23. 4 points
    Just completed the Puronvarsi 120mm knife. The blade has a slightly modified belly. The spine and bevels were straightened and the blade was hand polished to 800x then gray Scotch Brite for a soft satin finish. The handle is goncalo alves with padauk and ebony spacers and Lin-Speed oil finish taken to 800x for a low luster finish. The butt was convexed. The nickel-silver bolster has a lightly peened finish.
  24. 4 points
  25. 4 points
    Greetins! I'm not entirely sure what to call this.. I generally call it a falchata chopper but I could be incorrect in doing so. Clean 5160, a 13" blade, 18" overall, 3/16" spine with distal taper, and walnut scales. Thanks for looking!
  26. 4 points
    hello, Another recently completed project - Hatchet Axe Hand forged axe head from carbon steel, handle from oak, leather mask. The head is 140mm from end-to-end with a 80mm cutting edge, shaft 400mm. Thank you Jacek
  27. 4 points
    I don't make normal things, and this is one of the more eccentric projects i have completed. A vaguely tanto inspired letter opener that pairs a san mai blade with a lovely bit of two tone blackwood. The blade resembles dawn over dark mountains, and the two tone case pairs with it perfectly. The reverse side of the blade is very different. pure dark heartwood, and a blade that is mostly dark, with pools of light. I like the contrast between the two sides. Everyone here knows that the difference in the steel is caused by simply grinding more on one side of the san mai, and that you cannot deliberately plan what pattern will come out. Origionally i was going to make the reverse side pure black, grind the nickel layer right out of it, but that would have made the blade too thin, and i liked the 'pools' that were appearing, so i left it like that. sometimes the steel dictates what it wants to be. A few pics of the internal construction, this is 'visually' tanto inspired, but it is not built like a true tanto Tsuka/saya. Raw materials Nickel silver spacer. this was required to keep the sapwood on the outside lining up, because i didnt have a saw fine or accurate enough to split and re-glue the wood without losing appreciable thickness. i also really like the silver spacer, i like it visually and it adds a nice weight and cool touch to the saya. The saya is felt lined and has a rubber seat along the bottom edge and the front to protect the blade in its tight fitting space. Glued it up as a squared block before final shaping. Ready for final assembly The blade is not a stainless/carbon san mai. it is carbon/carbon sandwich with two nickel layers. the bright/dark contrast was acheived with nail varnish painted on the top part pre-coffee etching. the effect with stainless clad carbon would have been better, but you have to work with what you got! A wierd project, but most of it totally new to me and i enjoyed the shit out of making it. and it feels mighty satisfying in the hand, tight fit, weighty, the blackwood is gorgeous, it polishes down to a glass like feel. Enjoy
  28. 4 points
    This is 52100 either side of some mild steel. Forge welding and forging out kept my busy 10am to 3pm on Saturday, does not include forging and grinding the pieces of 52100 into usable shape or prepping the billet. Some cracks developed while forging out the blade, so less than half is usable, but it's a result none the less. Learned a lot, won't bore you with the details since most of you long since paid these school fees, hopefully next time will be better
  29. 4 points
    Hi! I finally did sth with blade which i started about year ago. Later i will add old photoes.
  30. 4 points
    just finishing these up. 3 1/4" blades of differentially hardened 1075+Cr, with safe false edges and filework, dyed burr elm handles, copper butt plates and leather sheaths: let me know what you think...
  31. 3 points
    Not in the shed but had a good day in town. I went to the outlet where I get bearings and belts etc to get a slightly shorter belt for the hammer final drive They have drums of bearings that are to go for scrap and they gave me permission to scavenge any of it I wanted. I just got three smaller ones about 4 inches in dia but there were a couple of big ones that must have been 2 ft across.
  32. 3 points
    Hello all! My name is Eric, I live in Fort Smith Arkansas and have recently gotten into forging due to the inspiration of FIF. I've read posts from this great community in order to help me along my journey and I thought I would share my first dedicated propane forge build with you all. It started life as an air compressor laying in a scrap heap at a metal recycling center. By flexing my terrible welding skills it now has a new life. I'm very much in to upcycling and I can honestly say this is the coolest thing I've ever upcycled. I had to burn out a lot of oily water and god knows what else inside the compressor tank to get started but it was smooth sailing from there. I fabricated essentially everything off the cuff and I'm really pleased with the results. The overall finished build is a 20" H x 8" diameter chamber with two layers of kaowool, 2-3 layers of satanite (I had already applied before I read about rigidizer for the wool) and a final 2-3 layers of ITC100 (not shown as I am still slowly curing the satanite). I have two Frosty tee burners I built myself from frosty's design. 3/4" tee, 6" BIP nipples (using frosty's 8 x mixing chamber diameter formula) , and 3/4" x 1 1/4" reducer coupling. 0.30 mig tip tapped into all brass plumbing sealed with pipe dope. If anyone wants any really specific details of how I got to this point, please feel free to message me!
  33. 3 points
    Fire striker "Drakkar". Fire strikers that are made with using forge welding.
  34. 3 points
    I've always wanted to make a seax similar to this and hadn't seen many examples. I based it off of the find which is mostly gone. The blade is about 16" and the handle it just large enough for two hands. I used wrought iron for the fittings and a piece of camphor burl for the handle. It's getting close.. still need to go over everything again and peen the tang. Afterwards is the long process of making a sheath. If you've ever made a traditional sheath for a seax.. it's a bugger bear. Hope you enjoy and thanks for looking! More to come as I tackle the sheath!
  35. 3 points
    yeah, I dropped my decent camera and it died. And today I shredded my front tire, only to find out the spare was 3" too large, which made for an interesting 25 mile drive home... also my pizza dough didn't rise. It's been a day...
  36. 3 points
    Ok fellow smiths. Here is my first forged knife. It’s from an old willys Jeep leaf spring (so I’m assuming it’s 5160). Took me quite a while to get it to this point as when I first started I had WAAAAYYYY too much material for the design I had. I ended up cutting a bunch off and re forging my edge. Once I was down to the correct amount of material I was able to get it down to the correct feeling and balance. Next time I make this design I will make the handle shorter so it has a more controlled feel. Next will be to do the heat treatment process and make a sheath! Hope you enjoy!
  37. 3 points
    The weather here was so hot & humid that I only managed a couple of hours of forge time today. This first photo shows three layers of 30 x 4 "W" pattern separated by multiple layers of both steels. This will give me two layers of 15N20 separated by one layer of 1080 between each of the three W layers. I didn't bother to trim them to length so you can see the back ends of them flaring out on the scrap end of the billet. Normally when preparing to square a billet on the bias I will forge it 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square. This time in order to bend the added layers of the billet a little more just for effect I forged it 1" x 3" and then squeezed it on the bias in my squaring dies. [ I don't really know how much this will effect the pattern but should help.] Here's the billet squared on the bias (1" x 1") and ready to be cleaned up for a 4-way weld. I'm not positive and will etch the end after the 4-way weld to see what I have before making a decision, but I'm thinking that a second 4-way weld may be called for. Either way it will end up in a canoe for the final weld.
  38. 3 points
    A small seax knife I made and put up for sale. It's 1084, oak, copper, silver, antler, and leather. It was a labor of love to be sure. It's a keen knife and it got used in the kitchen for a time while I was making the sheath. It's a flat ground blade and quite keen. I'll take any constructive criticism. Best to you and your's fellows!
  39. 3 points
    Howdy, first time poster. I forged these two out of scrap Damascus In a canister. The handles are boxelder burl I found and stabilized. The fittings are made from copper alloy i smelted.
  40. 3 points
    hope this clarifies as for the blue, Charles - that's from a filter on my cheap phone, to bring out the details as the fuller isn't super crisp in person. I hope it's not too misleading - I'm probably wicked enough to get most any blade glowing, tho
  41. 3 points
    I think its time to say goodbye to my favourite project - damascus seax. Triple core damascus (edge n9e, rest o2+s235) Total length 47 cm Leather scabbard with brass and bronze fittings. 1000 $ Feel free to ask if you have questions
  42. 3 points
    2x72 3hp belt grinder if my calculations are correct, it delivers about 6500 sfm at high speed. Dayton 3 horse 1740 rpm single phase with pulley speed shift. 3" & 6" contact wheels on the flat platen/slack swivel attachment - the platen is tube, so far the radius helps me to not gouge at the belt edge. imported 14" contact wheel that works great imo. throws down a spark shower, as i'd hoped
  43. 3 points
    Today dod not go as well as I had hoped unfortunately. The vfd unit seems to have fried itself and that may have been a function of the low amperage the main feed to the shed delivers from the house mains. It has been compounded by the much colder weather with a greater demand on the grid so that has caused lower input as well. Going to be close to $2000 to get a new VFD, replace the 15 amp cable feed to the shed with a heavier 40 amp cable, the wiring associated with that and the wiring in of the hammer. He took the 3 ph motor off the grinder home with him to give it a good check over and will be back tomorrow (if the couriers deliver the needed goodies overnight) so hope to have the grinder back in action and the hammer all wired up and ready to go.I did get the treddle sorted and replaced the linkages from the top spring to the tup and the drive arm and now have 6 inches of hammer lift if and when I need it for taller billets etc or to work with some of the tooling I have in mind to make empty space where the motor and VFD unit shoudl be Treddle finished and works well with the motor wired in up to the switch the sparky will fix in place tomorrow. He will add another few double plugs to the shed as well.
  44. 3 points
    And here's my attempt:
  45. 3 points
    I spent a few days tweaking and adjusting fit and finish on everything except the dagger. Today I finally put my big boy pants on and worked on the pommel. And the view from the butt end. The bronze pin will get hammered through the tang and out the other side. Then the ends will be cut down and domed. Then I need to file work the spacers and shape the guard. Oh yeah, I put a nasty scratch in the blade and had to hand sand it clean again. I will re-etch for the hamon and polish.
  46. 3 points
    That pile of lama fuzz makes me sweat just looking at it. It was in the low 90s here today... I got this one heat treated today. It is 304 over W2. The W2 wouldn't harden in my 11 sec oil, so I did an interupted brine into oil quench. Somehow, it came out straight and in one piece!
  47. 3 points
    A good day in the shed. I spent the better part of the day on the helve hammer with some good progress and then after lunch a customer came to pick up a knife and bought another one for the for sale box.Still have to cut the drive arm and the tup shaft, make up the gooseneck and guide but am really quite pleased with where it isThe motor is set so that I dont need a spring to hold it off the belt tension as the way I set it the weight of gives it a natural tendency is to fall back toward the main shaft so taking tension off the belt. I have a wood block for it to rest against but will replace it with a steel now that I have it worked
  48. 3 points
    I finally ordered some of that stabilized wood from Jason Williams on FB (thanks for the tip @Garry Keown) and they arrived today. These are heavy in the hand and feel like rocks, but wow!
  49. 3 points
    Small game in 12c27 with eucalyptus over micarta Mini bullnose with matai on the 1084 blade. bullnose skinner with ss bolster, buff horn and ss spacers with tassie blackwood on the 1084 blade. Safari knife with gidgee over ss on 1095
  50. 3 points
    Well here it is all finished. Had some challenges but I learnt heaps and am overall happy with the result. I will be taking Chris’s advice and get some finer carving tools.
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