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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  


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Showing most liked content since 08/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 7 likes
    Here's my latest... a custom order that when I drew options for the client, I labelled "insane" as it was an exercise more than anything in taking lines to an extreme. I was a little taken aback when he chose the drawing to proceed with. It has a 15" blade, is 20-3/4" in overall length, and the blade is 2.25" max width at the harpoon apex. It features a 9 bar pattern-weld blade, in turkish/serpents composite with explosion pattern bars for the clip and dropped edge. Completing the package are a 954 aluminum bronze guard, sculpted grenadilla handle, and 954 bronze nut for the through tang-construction. It is 1 lb. 12.3 oz. in total weight, and balanced to CHOP. Pics and a vid! Thanks for checking it out!
  2. 6 likes
    Greetings fellas! In my continued attempt to get better, i present my 6th hidden tang knife in a row!!! If you know me thats impressive (i love full tang) I dont have alot of blocks, so this knife was a mortised construction, horse hoof style? 420/1084. Leather, vulcanized paper, suriname ironwood. My first successful SS san mai among a list of a few others. Admittedly I had a bit of help from Kyle Gahagan, hes been really helpful here lately getting me out of my slump! Edit: I pulled out all the stops, please point out any glaring areas that need improvement! Part of me wishes the ricasso was square, and the plunge meeting it at a 45 degree angle....pics arent very good either.
  3. 6 likes
    This was a very pleasant commission to work on for me. I could practice a little more of inlaying and the results got better than i could anticipate, even if I have much to evolve in this art. The blade was mostly done by stock removal, but the tip and the tang were forged prior to the grinding. It was made using 1070 steel. The hilt is of a variation of Petersen's type L and it's components are made in mild steel and the inlays are nickel silver. The twisted wires are also nickel silver. It was then oil coated and lightly heated to make it look darker, so the contrast with the cooper-alloy would be even more visible. It is also a good way to prevent rust. My signature this time went on the inside of the lower guard, as the blade carries my maker's name. And on the pommel is asymmetrical in decoration: one side carries a similar decoration to the guards and the other a "double Týr" bind rune. The idea of peening it on the pommel cap is also a historical method, but I made it mainly because it would be more secure than peening the upper guard and attaching the pommel cap to it. The handle is pine wood wrapped in cord and then covered with pig skin. The scabbard is also pinewood, as well as it's belt-bridge. It is lined inside with natural wool and covered with linen cloth. The chape is also mild steel and the bridge is held by leather strips. All the decorations were made to fit a late ninth century fashion, although it is a simplification of the Borre style rather than a more elaborate version. The runes on the blade are inspired mainly on inscriptions of later, 10th and 11th century blades commonly made in Latin language such as Ingelri or Gecelin, but also inspired on the famous Tizona of El Cid and the Cortana from the legend of Holger Danske when it comes in the naming process of it. The use of the runes or local language was a choice of the owner, although I'm aware of only a single sword with runic inscriptions from the period (according to Petersen, B1622), but I have no access to what is written on this exemplar. They read: ik er ulfsmoþRin (Ek er UlfsmóðrRinn - I am the Wrath of the Wolf) hioruarþR kirosi mik (Hjörvarðr gerosi mek - Hjörvarðr made me) They are all written in old norse and I used the danish long-twig young futhork to write them. The sword was exposed at one of the biggest blade shows here in Brazil, where it was awarded the prize of Best Sword of the show and is indeed a proud weapon to display, as well as is swift and powerful to wield. As usual, I wrote a short tale for this blade that can be read here: http://vferreiraarruda.blogspot.com.br/2017/08/ulfsmor-wrath-of-wolf.html I hope you like it. And here are the stats of it. Overall length: 94,0cm Blade length: 79,7cm Blade width: 5,4cm Blade thickness at the guard: 0,5cm PoB: 17,2cm Length of the grip: 10,3cm Weight: 1,150kg
  4. 5 likes
    These are a couple of bush swords I forged at the same time that are kind of linked in my mind, though they went to different customers. The top one was ordered up by a fellow on an archery forum who was directed my way by a guy who uses blades extensively, who wanted an 18" blade. The bottom one was a first for me in that the customer had no e-mail or smart phone that I could send him pictures of it before shipping it. He had based his decision to ask for a bush sword from me on an article by Joe Flowers in the final issue of the lamentably-out-of-print Tactical Knives magazine. Since it had been several years since I had made the blades for that article, I let the customer know that what he got would, of course, be a bit different and hopefully better. tharkforged by James Helm, on Flickr What links them in my mind is that when I had forged them out and had them laying side-by-side, I immediately saw them as Barsoomian short swords being wielded in the lower limbs of a Thark to ward off any blows that might slip through larger, longer-range weapons wielded by the top pair of arms. Very different blade shapes, but kindred spirits, if you will. These are also a jumping-off point for me as I have been making bush swords for years now with integral socket handles. While I still feel that they make great handles if done correctly, I think that I have refined my multi-layer cord wrapping technique to the point that it is more comfortable than what I am able to do with the integral sockets. I still built them with Turk's head knots fore and aft to provide a good mechanical lock in the hand. The longer blade has a black-over-black wrap and a thin false edge that could have a secondary bevel added to sharpen it. The customer initially wanted a 21" blade, but I felt that I could give him better balance at 18" and he let me go ahead. thark04 by James Helm, on Flickr We set up his Kydex sheath for baldric carry, with a double-adjustable, quick-detach shoulder sling like I use on my tomahawk sheaths. thark05 by James Helm, on Flickr I believe the blade may have picked up a bit of negative sori during the quench as the slight recurve seems more pronounced in the post-heat treatment photos. thark06 by James Helm, on Flickr The shorter bush sword has a 15 1/2" blade. The top edge is fully sharpened. thark01 by James Helm, on Flickr The wrap is tan over black, with a tan Kydex sheath. thark02 by James Helm, on Flickr I have to say that I firmly believe that the customer got a better bush sword than the one in the article that caught his attention. He was certainly happy with it. Couldn't ask for more than that. thark03 by James Helm, on Flickr
  5. 5 likes
    Hey everyone! Here is a short recounting of the last few months work and travels. I already showed you guys my final project for graduation, but here is the rest of what I was up to when I should have been working on that specific project. Here goes! I have a love affair with home made steel. Bloomery, hearth, wootz, whatever it is I love that ancient grain. I have been learning to make my own steel for some time now, with the help of some great fiends and mentors, and make steel whenever I have the opportunity to do so! Last winter I made steel with my good friend Dan Waddell, later that month with our favorite Jeff Pringle, and then a few days later with Jesus Hernandez, JJ Simon, and Matt Venier! I was challenged by JJ to make a bowie knife a summer ago, and finally had time to work on the blade we had forged together. It is my first bowie knife and has a frame handle, hollow ground bog oak scales, and 80CRV2 blade. The guard is mild steel and the pins are stainless. I had a bunch of issues with fit and finish and the bog oak was unstabilized and rather chippy, but overall I am very happy with the result! A good friend of mine and Nihonto collector ended up falling in love with the blade and traded me a wakizashi for it, so I finished a sheath for it using sting ray skin as a nod to our shared passion for Japanese swords. I then did an aboutface and made a few seaxes, one for a client, one for a collaboration in the works with my good friend Eli! The first is 1075 with a nice autohamon and a twisted bar in the center. My favorite detail was how the twist ends and then turns to straight laminate for the very end of the blade, that is a touch I will certainly come back to someday. The second seax is mostly old material, with a little 15n20 thrown in for interest! Hearth steel edge with an iron spine. I made a sheath for a beautiful seax Zeb Deming made, and finally finished a collaboration we had started a while ago. The tooling is similar to the small seax I own from Zeb. So this was all happening during school, my last year, which you would think is when I would forsake all fun and get down to work right? Not so! I got a call from Kerry asking if I wanted to shoot Man at Arms with him and the gang, and I took a few weeks off from school to go shoot with them! We shot a season of the show for the El Rey Network, Robert Rodriguez's network. We made historical weapons based on different cultures and it was a total blast! Jesus and I worked together on a few of the builds and had a lot of fun being 'outsiders' on the set seeing how practiced everyone was in front of the camera! I filmed there for two weeks before heading home, and spent a lazy day at school before being flown out to Texas for a promo shoot with Danny Trejo and Robert Rodriguez. So i came home and got back to 'work' which I have to put in quotes because whenever I'm making I'm almost always having a blast! I got to a client's commission for a broad seax with amber. I had the idea of inlaying it into the pommel with a hole all the way through so both pieces of amber would glow as if lit by fire. That was a lot of fun! 1075 and wrought for the blade, carved moose, maple, wrought iron, silver, and amber for the handle, and leather and brass for the sheath. I took the opportunity while I was in the mood for leather work to make a sheath for the Garnet Seax I made a while ago too At some point later my girlfriend decided she really loved this knife, and as the carvings were originally meant to be for a hair pin, I decided to make one for her as a surprise. I asked Dave DelaGardelle to share his carving mojo with me and I think I did okay! Projects like these are something I really love, a day project that turns into something really wonderful for a loved one. I made a folding knife for the wife of my good friend who collects Nihonto! Made from pattern welded steel and mammoth ivory, with decorative pins. She fell in love with this one during the graduation show I had, so it was hers. I did some mourning work for him, and worked on a tanto he had, making the tsuka and fitting the samé and the rest of the tosogu. IMG_6748.m4v I made a kitchen knife out of mystery steel that has cracked or broken on me every other time I had tried to use it since. I quenched this particular knife in water directly after forging and normalizing and haven't had any luck with the steel since then. Water buffalo horn, maple, iron, and mystery steel. It has one of the favorite hamon I've ever made and I am perplexed as to why it happened. Last year sometime when I was waiting to board a plane for Forged in Fire I got a call from Nick Rossi asking if I would be willing to teach a seax class at the New England School of Metalworking. I had heard really wonderful things about that school ever since I began to smith, and I agreed immediately to doing the class! I prepared several slide presentations and brushed up on some history and hoped for the best. It was a total success! The students made some amazing work all around. Of the students I believe only one had done and pattern welding before and only a few were experienced in forge welding. I showed them a cross sectional photo of a six bar seax with patterned bars on each side of it and they really hooked onto the idea as a way to forge a blade of regular thickness with the eternally sought after star pattern in the twists. My initial idea was three bar seaxes about 6 inches long with an edge bar, a twist, and wrought iron spines. Every single student overshot my highest expectations and made some wonderful stuff. I split people into two groups for most of the work, with the first group starting to fold edge material to ~300 layers and the other group drawing out bars for twisting. Dereck and Nick had previously done the work of drawing out the wrought iron for the spines. In the photo above you can see the cross section of the demo piece I made in between running around to show them the six bar construction. Here is the blade Aidan made after rough forging And him and Coulton working together to burn in the handles Working together (do you notice a trend?) to wet form the sheaths Stephen drawing and wrapping wire around his seax handle A photo of Coulton's war monster. He wanted a subtle etch to bring out the pattern very lightly and man is it beautiful. Here we go! First is Nick's seax, a continental style seax with some sweet counter twisted and offset bars and maple and moose antler. A beautifully light and thin blade, this thing was demonic in it's sharpness. Nate's seax, a set of twists framed by wrought iron and made into a wicked broken back shape. Antler and mahogany (?) handle Stephen's seax, beautifully wrought with a gently flowing pattern. Silver wrapped black walnut handle with red tail deer antler Jeff's seax, counter twisted bars done cleanly and with control, framed by wrought iron and patterned steel with a stout handle of antler and maple. Coulton's war seax. I'm not sure how large the pictures make it look, but it was HUGE. Wide powerful blade with beautifully matched twists and a subtle pattern. Aidans giant orc seax! Seven bar construction with hamon (show off) Last is my own demo piece! Forged from six bars of the steel we prepared. In only six days we forge welded billets for edge and twist bars, layered the edges from 11 to 300 layers, twisted and prepped billets, forge welded, drew to shape, ground, heat treated, ground and polished, roughed and fit handles, did final assembly, and even made sheaths! I am in awe of the dedication and teamwork each one of the students showed, and the pieces they each walked away with are testaments to their work ethic and willingness to not only make, but learn about these amazing knives. The seax is one of my favorite knives for a reason, and the work that each student put out is exactly why. I left feeling extremely rewarded. It was an intense week of work and learning but the camaraderie and hospitality shown to me by Nick and Dereck made me feel at home in a shop I had never even seen before. I came home and had to finish a sword in a week! A good friend, kindred spirit, and client was to receive an SCA award for excellence in making and this was to be the surprise. He was told the sword would be done in another month or so, maybe in time for Pennsic, maybe not He named the sword Virtu. It is a type XV based on the Fastolf sword. I brought it to Zack Jonas' to visit with Peter Johnsson while I worked on it, and he gave me his blessing saying it was a good blade. That was the push I needed to go back home and finish it for good! The blade is shear steel quenched in water with a wrought iron guard and pommel. The guard was my first foray into files guards, and was a pleasure to do! I hope to do more of that in the future. The grip is different from the sword it was based off mostly for reasons of comfort. In doing a test the original sword's grip must have been awful to grip without a serious glove. I was so short on time I received help from my friend Oliver in turning the wrought iron for the pommel. I then ground the hollow on the perimeter of the pommel freehand and spent an eternity polishing away the marks. Eli helped me polish the blade. I spent a few frantic days working on the grip and sheath, having to wait of course for the glue to dry and the linen to be ready for the leather wrap. The tooling was accomplished at 2am the night before the delivery of the sword was to be done. The moons represent many late nights, immortalized now in leather! The rest of the carving is a lattice pattern (not pictured) and the client's coat of arms. I co-taught another class at Hampshire during the summer. Three of the students that came last year decided to come back and take the course again, wanting to continue their projects and learn even more! It is such a gratifying feeling to have been able to show them enough that they decided to come back and work in the same smithy again. Cole had started a sword on his own, having set up a shop at home since last summer, and he bought it with him, where I showed him how to grind the fuller and he spent days polishing. We cast a set of type H fittings I had carved a long time ago for my ULFBERHT build and finished it before the two weeks were done. It is a great pleasure to watch students of the flame grow and improve in their own projects and this was no different! Last but not least I have been playing again with home made steel, as all things are cycles. I have been fortunate enough to be entrusted with antique Nihonto and allowed to re polish and play with them, and have had much fun and success, as well as learning. I quenched a hearth katana during the eclipse with my great friend Matt Berry and then a small norse sword/seax and then also a viking sword later on, there are photos of those but for a later time! For now, steel-magic and rest, because if you're not weary after reading then you truly have a greater attention span than me! I leave you with tamahagane and bloom made by myself and Jesus polished by a mix of old and new ways. I hope you guys enjoy! And again, like the title says, I am sorry for writing so much! ps I am so surprised I didn't surpass some sort of photo limit...
  6. 5 likes
    Hi A blade finished a couple of week ago ....O2, 15n20 and Hitachi steel for the edge .......10 1/2 inches long ....this one took a while to do and a lot of grinding belts ......
  7. 5 likes
    Hello Ya'all Something I whipped out yesterday and today. I guess ya can call it a "Bowie" knife...Looks a bit too rakish to me for a Bowie..but.. Anyway got a wild hare and went with the flow...This one just wanted to be this way so..Who am I to complain?? It worked...at least I think it did.. OK a 12 1/2" blade with a single fuller on the spine. Clip is swaged ..Blade is in 1095 and L6 steel in my "Solar Storm" pattern with phosphor bronze fittings. A piece of my "fossilized Bos Taurus" ivory for the grip is set with hand made phosphor bronze studs..(I got to find a ready made source for these little buggers...they take forever to make by hand)... I tell ya I had a helluva time getting the tang to the right shape to fit the grip...Had to be a bit "creative" and all.. That and getting that &%!!!@(*(^ing fuller to curve right.. Still not too bad for a day and a half worth of work..I have enough of this Solar Storm bar left that I welded up for this guy for another couple of three more decent sized blades as well!! JPH (This one is up on my site as site stock..at least it will be here shortly...Hope these pics are OK)
  8. 5 likes
  9. 5 likes
    Hi !! This time i want to show my first XVII century saber. Blade made of 50hf steel, handle made of stainless steel and ray skin. Overal length 970mm, blade length 855mm. Weight 780 g
  10. 4 likes
    Hey again, everybody! Here is my latest piece, a type XVa longsword, that many of you have been following in my WIP thread. I don't really have a lot to say about it, it was a really fun project, even though there were some bumps in the road (keeping it straight in heat treat was a pain) The whole sword is just under 1.9lbs, or 850 grams. The ferrules near the guard and pommel are mirror polished copper, I spiral fluted the cocobolo grip, the ferrule/ring... thingy in the center of the grip is mirror polished copper with silver wire lines inlayed on it, and polished silver spacers on either side. The blade is 34" long, spring tempered 80crv2 from Aldo, if my calipers were working I'd give you all stats of the distal taper, but it's a convex distal taper, I believe it's about 7mm thick at the base. To give you an idea of the handling, the forward pivot point is about an inch behind the point, and the hilt node is just above the copper piece in the center, right in the heel of your hand when you hold the sword. Closeup of the absolutely murderous point The copper and silver spacer in the center! I am really happy with this detail
  11. 4 likes
    Often I get my best designs late at night. This pic of a recurve Bowie is what I sketched at 2AM recently: (The bottom one is simply a refinement of the top.) I decided to give this one a nine-bar Merovingian Damascus blade. Here's a pic of the initial components: The Damascus bars here have 54 layers each. I gave each a double layer of extra thick 15N20 in the center. Hopefully that will give me a nice twisted ribbon effect in the final billet. The round piece is stainless for a front handle spacer. The thinner piece will be a contoured butt cap. (I haven't cut out the guard material yet.) Here's the five bars twisted: And the same five bars cut & stacked. I'll try to get them surface ground & welded into a billet tomorrow and post some pics of the progress. Hope you enjoy the walk through of this Bowie. Gary
  12. 4 likes
    The caboose photo for this wip - here's the sheath I made for it:
  13. 4 likes
    A sword for myself. Speaking in a spiritual fashion the duality of polished vs rough finish which has always been a favorite, rings true for the duality of a sword and the cool fantasy stories of Lich wizards and other pre LOTR movie stuff. Other than that it's just cool looking and I've been dying to use a skull for a pommel forever haha. Michael Dillon on Instagram is the skull master. He started forging and sharing these badass skulls and they are inspiring as heck.
  14. 4 likes
    Hi, as i am learning to get more refined in my finish i made a kukri style fighter. The handle was point of attention as i wanted to try a screw on butt cap that blends the screw, different then i made Here . Steel has got a patina made whit vinager and coffee to make it somewhat moister resident. Handle is copper and burl. Please feel free to comment on improvements as this is my first attempt at this style.
  15. 4 likes
    Hi Gents I've just finished this Brute de Forge camp knife, the blade is forged from EN45, blade length is just shy of 240mm, it is 6mm thick on the spine with an overall length of 365mm. The cutting edge has a shallow recurve, the blade flats have been left with the forge scale on and the secondary bevel has a forced acid etch patina. The finger choil has been flared in that Brute de Forge style, the full tang is tapered with tan Micarta scales, blue liners and two S/S Corby bolts. The leather sheath is wet formed, dyed saddle tan, the belt keeper has been cut through the welt in the mountain man style and the welt has been stitched with blue thread to match the scale liners. Thank you for taking the time to look, all comments and critique very welcome. All the best Steve
  16. 4 likes
    It's been a busy Summer of mostly making wedding bands, but the wedding season is slowing down, and I'm itching to do some blades... But here's one I finished up maybe in June? I never had the chance to post it here. It's available, feel free to PM.
  17. 4 likes
    Hi All My second damascus knife made in my new workshop.Santoku, approx 350 layer, bog Rata (NZ native) and Sterling Silver, total size 32 cm. blade 20 cm
  18. 4 likes
    I like to forge san-mai pretty close to shape, including forging the edge bevels. When forging the bevels you need to pay close attention to working it evenly from both sides so the core stays centered. Something that I've found helps immensely is grinding 45° bevels on what will become the edge then forge the bevels... This virtually guarantees that the core will be centered along the edge.
  19. 4 likes
    Hello everyone, this is my first post here but I have been lurking around for a while, studying all of the amazing work you create. I have been making chefs knives and a couple of daggers for a while but my goal have always been to forge swords. I decided to begin that journey at the end of last year and have been working twoards this goal since then. I have a full time job and too many hobbies to count but smithing have always been my number one passion and I have finally reached a milestone I've been looking forward to for a long time. I've finished my first sword. The proportions of the sword, weight distribution and blade design is based on a 15th century sword from Germany as documented by Peter Johnsson and published in the book accompanying the exhibition "The Sword - Form and Thought" at the Deutshes Klingenmuseum in Solingen (2015 - 2016). Without his research (and further help with heat treating methods and oven design) this project would not have been possible. I am honored to have been given so much of your time and knowledge Peter. The pommel, crossguard and grip is not based on a single sword. It's just me looking at other master pieces, taking a bit here and a bit there and coming up with something that I thought looked good. The sword is 125.3 cm long, forged from 6150 steel and it's edges are sharp. I'm very happy with the outcome but I am definitely going to aim for a completely tight fit of blade to crossguard on my next sword. I got a little carried away with the filing and ended up having made a too large and also slightly curved hole. I will definitely continue making more swords in the future and I'm already looking in to ways of starting to study museum pieces to begin building up my own library of knowledge of historical swords. Cheers!
  20. 4 likes
    I have had this idea for a locking friction folder for a while. I'm not sure if it is an original design, but I haven't seen this anywhere else. This knife has a very thin but wide tang which has been spring tempered. This way, the tang is easily moved by pushing it to the side, but it is still strong when exposed to rotational force. The end of the tang has a ramp and a stop so the handle pushes the tang to the side when opening, and both pieces keep it from rotating in either direction. This is only a prototype, so I would probably make the tang shorter next time, and because it would be shorter, it would have to be wider and thinner to stay structural. The design was originally inspired by a folding sword from a star trek movie. I figured that this design could be repeatable, so you could possibly have a folding knife with a blade that is 2 or 3 times the length of the handle. The blade would look like it is zig-zagging, but you could just grind a diagonal bevel for one continuous edge.
  21. 3 likes
    On some steels you can normalize too much, 1095 being a good example if the manganese level is low enough. You can actually refine the grain to such an extent that you reduce the hardenability of the steel so much that you literally don't have any time at all to get it from the forge to the quench. Finer grain = shallower hardening = reduced hardenability = faster quench required WITH SIMPLE LOW-MN STEELS. You can normalize deep-hardening steels like 80CrV2, 5160, 52100, and O-1 as many times as you want, provided your temperature controls are good, and never reduce the hardenability to the point that it'll water quench without cracking. Anyway, yeah, three is the magic number, and don't soak 1095 unless you're doing stock removal only on spheroidized annealed barstock. In that case you will want to soak for about 30 seconds to one minute before starting the normalizing process to get the carbides into solution rather than spheroidal. If you're forging the blade, you don't need to soak at all. 1084 has enough Mn and Aldo's has a pinch of vanadium added for flavor (actually it helps reduce grain growth) that it's a deep-hardening steel. I doubt you can over-normalize it. And again if you're doing stock removal only with no forging, no real soaking required, just hold it for 30 seconds or so. 1084 is a eutectoid steel, it doesn't have extra carbides floating around that need to be brought into solution.
  22. 3 likes
    One final forging of the separate twisted pieces to thin them (in order to effectively weld this many pieces they need to be much thinner than they are wide). Next they must be surface ground to eliminate all scale & twisting lines on the surfaces to be welded (18). Here's the final stack ready to be welded (five right-hand twists and four left-hand): I'll try to get this welded and maybe forged into a blade this afternoon.
  23. 3 likes
    some process videos...
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    Well folks we finally have a survivor. After the last one where my defeat was due to errant clay application and not dealing with decarb from the oven, I may have managed to redeem myself. So here it is: 1095 from Aldo, clay coated (Satanite) 11.25" to the start of the ricasso 90% flat ground with a bit of convex roll along the edge especially at the belly. So far its gone through one tmpering cycle. Have to deal with a warp near the top third on the second but barring failure at that point I think we made it. This was not a completely forged knife. I forged the tip and most of the tang. The rest was ground. Its an awful big knife and its just too hot to forge much right now So far I've sanded it down to 80grit on one side to check for issues. Should have a pretty nice hamon in the end.
  25. 3 likes
    The longest is 43 cm and weighs 300 gram. Replica of Illerup Adal. Zero electric welding & zero power hammer.
  26. 3 likes
    Hello, here is big chopper I have forged from old ford car spring. It is 50 cm long and 6 wide. Yew handle. It has got diferential HT, though not visible through scotchbrite finish. Amazing sheath by Stěpan Holota. According the new owner it "chops through nails in old beams like through carrots". Jaro
  27. 3 likes
    I use West System's G-Flex epoxy. It has a long working life (so you aren't rushed after mixing), and takes a day to set, but once it does you would need to destroy the handle to get it apart. Amazing stuff.
  28. 3 likes
    First time working with bone for handle material...it stinks but it feels really nice in the hand. 5.5 inch blade. Hand forged w2 from Aldo. Dyed camel bone scales with stainless pin and logo pin. Etched in Ferric and polished with Mothers and Rotten Stone with Pumice Oil. My pin placement got off a bit while but all in all seems like it came out ok. Now to build a sheath.
  29. 3 likes
    I got a call from a local custom meat provider. Among other things, he practices Halal and Kosher butchery. He asked for a pair of slaughtering and skinning knives. These are way outside my usual style. Full tang, brass (brass? I haven't used brass in years) bolsters. The big one is in Osage, the smaller is Ironwood. He asked for some thickness in the handles, old hands don't grip as well, he said, so the handles are more like a hawk handle. I would have slimmed them down an easy third, but this is what he asked for. Long blade is a hair over 7 inches, the small one is a bit over 4 inches. Differential HT 1095, tempered hard at 350. Hand rubbed 600 grit. They still need an edge, but nearly done.
  30. 3 likes
    Thanks for the comment Alan, it actually sparked much of the design of this knife. I was at a local gem show looking for fossil ivory and came across a handful of these beautiful stones, once purchase I ran home to begin designing. Now today is nearly the last day in a mountain of work to get this knife done. In my eagerness to finish I did not document the process as well as I could have, but hopefully it will make sense. First thing I had to do was stitch the sheath together and trim the edges. Now with the structural sheath done I have to start on the frog or belt loop for the knife. I begin by making two copper rings from 3/32nd wire I fold about 28 inches of annealed wire on its self and twist it using a drill. Then I anneal it again, fold it and twist once more. This wire was then formed into the two rings. Then I made a series of straps and loops to finish the belt loop and with that the sheath is done! All that is left is to do the final cleaning and send it off to Caleb Royer for photos.
  31. 3 likes
    Hi all, after long time, i decided to clean my old rusty anvil. 66 cm long. Marked : 264 [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Can someone tell me something about it ? Ruggero
  32. 3 likes
    Thanks for sharing that with me! The point on mine has a different geometry, but overall it's a similar design. Finished up the pommel, and made a new crossguard! I like this one better, it's actually the third attempt, as I burned the second in my forge on accident They were both polished, and then heat blued. I love the finish left by the heat bluing, it gives a very nice shade of gray with subtle blue and purple tones, depending on the light, and has a beautiful finish that gives a clean aesthetic, but also handmade character. You can also see a bit of the oxidization on the base of the blade, from where I drew back the hardness of the tang and shoulders. One of the crossguard terminals. I decided to go with an octagonal faceted decoration, as it mirrors/compliments the pommel. Definitely held my breath while grinding these! The tiny flats are hard to feel, and all it takes is a tiny slip! Thanks for looking, everyone!!
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    Hi all, Please see the completed knives. 1075 and Flame River Red Gum, copper pins and lanyard loop. All comments and critiques welcome, savage/brutal or otherwise @Alan Longmire. Huge learning curves, and I really appreciated all the guidance along the way. @Garry Keown @Wes Detrick
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    These are the other two from the same billet for those that may have missed the prior posts.
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    The blade on this one is a 4-wayed mosaic of 1084 & 15N20. The hilt is blackwood with fine silver fittings.
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    Canola is cheap, and works 90+% of the time for 90+% of the steels most commonly used in bladesmithing. Safety tip: Please remember that oil floats on water. If you leave your quench tanks outside in the rain, the water will go to the bottom of the tank and you won't even notice it. Repeat this for a few months, then quench a long blade and the following happens: The red hot tip of the blade plunges through the oil and hits the water lurking at the bottom of the tank. The water explodes into steam. The steam explosion throws the oil upwards in a vaporized cloud into the air. The vaporized cloud of oil hits the still red hot bits of the blade not yet quenched and turns into a huge fireball and burns your shop to the ground (and you if you're really unlucky). Be careful. Wear protective gear. Sorry for the lecture . . . everyone may (probably does) already know this. Luck in the quest. Dave
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    Those are all the sheaths of broken back saxes that I know with any metal parts still attached. A lot more sheaths have been found, but were all stripped of any metal parts before being thrown away (all found at rubbish pits). So the only basic indication for metal fittings are the remaining rivet holes. The patterns vary quite a bit. Some have largely spaced rivet holes at more or less equal intervals along the entire edge. Some have a clear separate row rivet holes at the blade either at large distance or close distance to eachother, a set of three at the blade/handle junction and a few holed along the handle part like no. 115 from Coppergate above. Others lack the set of 3 at the blade handle junctions.
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    A couple teasers of the hilt. All that's left are a couple of touch ups, and it'll be time to put it in a box. I mirror polished the silver and copper ferrules, and inlayed simple silver lines into the copper. And the tang was hot peened over the pommel!
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    rams horn,rosewood handle, 5160 blade
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    Man, Congratulations! I am starting to think that maybe, just maybe this site should turn into a guild of some type. I know I wouldn't be half the bladesmith I am now without it! Keep on keepin' on Gabe! -Gabriel
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    Hello, My name is Tim, 51 years old and living in Colorado. I've been a lurker here for some time and finally decided to join. I couldn't find an actual Introductions area, so hopefully this will be okay... When I'm not at my regular job performing Computer Forensics in a Law Enforcement capacity, I'm usually out in the shop making something. I've been making blades on and off for a while now, but just started to forge as opposed to just material removal. I got an old Peter Wright and built a coal forge this last spring and set-up a pretty nice little shop to start making knives and varied blacksmith art projects. I've really been bitten by the blacksmith bug. I just picked-up a Clay Spencer hammer in August and I love it! I recently acquired a literal ton of 1.5" EIPS mine shaft hoisting cable,the cable in the background, that has laid abandoned for years. This should keep me in the blade making for quite a while. This is my first actual forged blade/knife so far:
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    Exactly. Plus a rounded edge sticks better, especially if you make it nice and pointy on the ends. Right now you have what looks like a really cool and agressive shingling hatchet, and that's not a bad thing! But add a curved edge with sharp points and it'll get really wicked.
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    My 2nd knife was pattern welded, and I've only made 3 monosteel knives since then. I did it all with a propane tank forge, a hammer and small anvil for 3 years. I don't really recommend it, but lots of people do it with nothing else
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    A chore knife is what I have taken to calling my EDC's. Most people get it the first time, I always have to explain EDC. OL 8 1/8th " BL 4 1/2" Steel 1084/15n20 W's end scrap Handle Elk, slabbed off of a main beam Mosaic pins Knife with spring clip scabbard The whole megilla The new one (off to Utah tomorrow, and the one that inspired it, which is mine. Thanks for lookings Geoff
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    Hello, After talking to a friend of mine witch is passion-ed whit BBQ i decided to make a big meat knife. Actually they are two, the other one will follow when done. Seems the food truck industry like customs of this sort. Second knife is finished in a different style inducing screw on butt cap ( i always wanted to try that) 5160, Dutch hardwood, copper, red copper, bone, blackwood, Edge 26cm, OAL ~ 41cm As usual comment are welcome and thanks for watching.
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    Oh right, I thought that one was earlier, but apparently late 8th century. This does show the suspension, so that makes it very interesting. Also that it's practically vertical, rather then horizontal. Some more images:
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    There's this depiction of a Client King on the St. Andrews sarcophagus - it's hard to say for sure, but he seems to have a large broken back sheath suspended vertically, edge forward, on his right hand side:
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    Beautiful sword! How did you do the transition from the painting to the blade measurements, cross section progression in particular? Just eyeballing or is it based on an existing sword profile? The narrow shape reminds me of a sword I measured some time ago, which is 35mm wide at the base with an overall weight of below 1kg and a fierce bodkin point:
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    Thanks! Good luck on your sword, Viktor! I believe the rapier evolved from the sidesword, which evolved from the single hand arming sword. This is just a variation of the longsword Got the pommel finished, and the blade polished up to 320 grit on the diagonal, and is hair shaving sharp. Needs a bit more work to get the ridge completely straight, and then it's nice, straight pulls with 500 grit. Enjoy this video of me attempting to ruin weeks of hard work Swords are soo haarrddd to photograph... When you put all of your damage points into "piercing" Love the shape of this pommel! Super fun to make, facets ground in on the 10" contact wheel. Has a nice butt end, too! Love the fit given by hot drifting Hey, sharp swords are sharp.... Thanks for looking, everyone! More when I have it