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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    All: It's been about two years since the death of my father. He died unexpectedly and suddenly. Him and I were working on our jointly owned boat in Cordova, Ak and he got a stomach ache. A few days later he was diagnosed with stage 4 Pancreatic Cancer. Ten days later he died. We had a few days to say goodbye. The very last beer I shared with my Dad was sitting on the flying bridge of his Boat in what was going to be his retirement home in Florida. I asked him what he wanted done at his funeral. In my Dad's characteristic humor he said he wanted me to build a Viking ship and put him on it, pushing it out to sea. i laughed and said that I'd probably go to jail for that. Then we hatched this plan. My family are commercial fishermen from Cordova, Alaska. We lived on the water. My dad always hoped he was of Viking descent. He was intensely disappointed to find out we were not when DNA tests became available. I wanted to share these pics and the video with you guys (my brothers in craftsmanship), but it was too close to the event. It was too personal. Enough time has passed, and I think it's okay to show you what we did. I say "we," because this build was like a long goodbye to my Dad. He was the woodworker. I was the metal guy. I had never built anything more complex than a small cabin out of wood. I had a lot of long conversations with him during this build. Most of them were in the form of: "I know, Dad! But we don't have time to redo that bit. Your funeral is in like seven days!" My buddy Shane Harvey designed this scale model of a Viking Longship from blueprints obtained from the Copenhagen museum in Denmark in CAD and then cut the keel and ribs on his CNC plywood cutter. He also did the dragon head and the small shields with my Dad's initials (RS) on them. The cutting of the cedar planks (each one cut on a table saw by me), the glue up, etc. took almost 20 days of intense work. I totally underestimated the amount of time it would take. All the lessons I had to learn as I went . . . Just in time I had it stained, varnished, and loaded onto my truck for the ferry ride to Cordova. We loaded the boat up with things my Dad loved. Including the very first sword I ever made when I was 12 with his help (ground from a long file), his favorite hat, a jar of peanut butter (his favorite food), and a gin and tonic in a viking horn (not traditional, but it was his drink). And then we set it on fire. It burned until it swamped, and then we sunk it in a bay that he loved. Anyway, hope you like the build. It's not a blade, but I know you guys well enough to know you'll be okay with this off topic post. Cheers, Dave PS: Drone footage by Shane Harvey.
  2. 8 points
    All done except for the leather work. I heat blued all the stainless fittings except the guard.
  3. 7 points
    Just finished this one. 3 1/2" clay hardened 1095 blade, carved bog oak handle, 4 piece sterling silver mounts, hand cut granite pommel setting, copper sheath lined with felt and covered in goatskin: let me know what you think...
  4. 7 points
    It has been a while since I last posted any work here, probably because I haven't done much knifemaking for the past couple of years. However, work suddenly dried up in August, and a prayer revealed the answer: "Make knives!" What sort of knives? The market is stuffed with makers. Again I got an instant answer: "Burger, wake up! Make multiblade folders!" Well so I got back into making knives and it was a struggle at first. One of the prime reasons I stopped was that I just couldn't see up close any more, and my reading glasses, no matter how frequently I changed them, just couldn't keep up. So i learned to make knives wearing +4 Optivizors! It took three weeks and four knives before I was used to working with them. Enough history! This weekend is the largest knife show south of the equator, the Brooklyn knife show in Pretoria, and I was lucky to get a table. So for the past month I have been working on a couple of special knives: The first is the second five blade stockman I made, (the first I made in 2012/13) this is knife nr 11 of 2019, and I am quite happy with it. The damascus was made by Henning Wilkinson. Brass liners, bronze pins and MOP scales. a Then, just to be completely insane, I decided to make some knives i have never attempted before: a split back whittler and a four blade congress,and since both are my first attempts, I just had to use damascus for both. The congress has warthog tusk covers, the blades are crushed w's damascus by Stuart Smith The split back whittler has paper micarta scales, the blades I made from a bit feather damascus I had left over from when I made my first five-blade about seven years ago. Thank you for looking, questions and comments welcome!
  5. 6 points
    52100 core with 420SS sides, G10 handles
  6. 5 points
    Greetings Fellows of the forge, While I am waiting for the leather to get shipped to Darwin for the sheath to house my recently finished Seax I have been spending my time making wood carving chisels, gravers, punches and researching how these sheaths were constructed. Well In my research I have viewed countless Seaxes both historical and recreations and have decided that I absolutely love the Broken Back style blades especially the Long pointy ones. I also came across the Baltic style War Knives and after reading the Baltic War Knives thread in History I decided that These knives really interest me too especially their blade geometry. So in the spirit of historically inspired things that “could have been” I decided to combine the wicked blade shape of the Broken Back Long Seax with the thin stabby blade geometry and handle of the Baltic/Gotlandic War Knife. Here it is so far after a successful heat treat...now I am going to work out what handle material suits it best ( pictured with a rough fit of antler but I am undecided) I then plan to put some of my newly made tools to use on the handle fittings. The overall length including the tang is 57 cm with a blade length of 40cm The spine is 7mm thick and 2.5cm wide at the base It already has a wicked feel to it. As always any and all feedback, critique, advice suggestions etc greatly appreciated
  7. 5 points
    Ledus (Lay-dus: Latvian for ice) This bowie was a commission that was inspired by my La Brea Bowie from a few years ago. I think the new one came out quite well, what do you think? Specs: Blade Length: 12 inches Overall Length: 17.5 inches Guard, Spacer, and Frame: Shibuichi Liners: silver Pin: silver Handle: stabilized blue maple burl For those of you more knowledgeable on knife history I am trying to find out if anyone has used shibuichi to make a frame on a bowie before. The frame, guard, and spacer were all carved in wax and cast. I do not recall seeing a cast frame on a bowie before but would love to see other examples if you know of them. Thanks for looking. -Robert
  8. 5 points
    With a few more coats of finish to the oak burl and a final polish to the handle fittings, I should be ready for final glue up:
  9. 5 points
  10. 5 points
    Recent project - Customised migration period style seax. Blade made of EN45 steel, mahogany handle, leather scabbard with tooled ornament with brass studs, rivets and fittings. Thank you Jacek
  11. 5 points
    This is the knife I made for the challenge project that @Joshua States put up in the Beginners Place forum. I just finished up the sheath this morning. It's made from reclaimed spring steel and has a 6" blade. The handle is African Blackwood scales with mild steel fittings. A family friends son is graduating from basic training in a couple of weeks and this will be on it's way to him. I want to say thank you again to Joshua for posting his challenge projects. There's a few firsts for me with this blade that I probably would not have done otherwise. As always comments and critiques are very welcome.
  12. 5 points
    Not the best photo but this may give you an idea: I'm not totally satisfied with the Spanish moss but it's a little late for changes now.
  13. 4 points
    When the smoker door catches the cord for the meat thermometer and yanks the turkey out of the smoker. If no one else saw it hit the ground, did it really happen?
  14. 4 points
    It has a little surface rust on if from people trying to finger the pattern but that won't affect the way it chops wood.
  15. 4 points
    After a rough grind & a quick etch I got my first look at the pattern. I'm sure that it will show more detail after H/T.
  16. 4 points
    Turned all those bits of wood into handles. New workshop if definitely way more productive than how I used to work. This lot took 6 hours, with a bit of walking between workshops, as the mill and drill is still in the old shop!
  17. 4 points
    Here are a few folding knives I have made lately. They also double as a flint striker. Blades are 1084 and frame is 5160
  18. 4 points
    Finished up my new forge tonight. It seems to run pretty good. Hopefully this weekend I'll get to play around a bit and see if I can get it up to welding temps with the little blower that I have on it.
  19. 4 points
    My first sword...about 45 hours in on it. Based on a hunting sword in Nuemann's Swords and Blades of the American Revolution. Original had antler handle but I wanted to try this. Started with a 1"x1/4" bar of 1070, a foot square sheet of 3/16 mild steel, some 1" mild round stock and a hunk of ebony...handle ribbon is silver. Hand cut the fuller with jig I saw on here and built.
  20. 4 points
    Hi guys, I haven't been active here for a while but I have not stopped sword making! Here are my latest two pieces, a XVIIIc longsword and a cutlass with a dark twist... First up the XVIIIc. It is inspired by the swords from the Alexandrian arsenal. Large, imposing and about as a fearsome a cutter as you can get (with longswords anyway). Stats: Overall length: 114cm Blade length: 87,5cm Blade width: 7,6cm Weight: 1770g PoB: 10cm CoP: ca 60cm Forward Pivot point: at tip Next up: a black cutlass! I was inspired to make this piece from one of Matt Easton’s Cutlass videos. I prefer handy and substantial swords when it comes to single handers and in a way, a cutlass is like an improved version of a Messer. I was in a somewhat dark mood when working on this and I believe it shows… The entire piece emanates a feeling of dark power. It’s a handy piece and moves easily but it is very powerful for its size. The blade is full 8mm thick at the base, with a strong concave distal taper (the only proper way to make a sabre). The blade is acid etched and I also left some scale from HT on the spine. The guard is actually an original late 19th/early 20th century piece from a much-used austrian practice sabre. It shows much superficial wear but is perfectly sound structurally. After some blackening, I think it fits the blade perfectly. The grip is covered in old black leather. Stats: weight: 1000g blade length: 70cm overall length: 84cm PoB: 11cm That cutlass is about the perfect zombie/apocalypse/BoB weapon in my eyes...
  21. 4 points
    In between commissions, I've been trying to finish up some smaller pieces before Christmas. The first two were made as a one heat point forging demo. 5"ish blades in 1095, mounted in bog oak, copper and bone: Next is a simple wee viking knife in 1095 and carved wild olive wood with a bog oak bolster: And finally a simple edc in 1095, bog oak, copper and carved antler: let me know what you think...
  22. 4 points
    That's because Gerald Boggs is only interested in the forging :-)
  23. 4 points
    You've been busy Garry, nice work . I finally completed a commission of two kitchen knives. The other one was a petty I posted earlier.
  24. 3 points
    This is my first knife I made from a file. It was made from a Nicholson rasp. The blade length is 3.5 inches and overall length is 7.5 inches. This is my second attempt at a slip guard that was soldered on. The handle is made from wenge wood.
  25. 3 points
    Just finished up this Santoku which will be a christmas present for my sister. Unfortunately I got some scratches on the blade during sharpening, so I'll have to polish those out later. 8.5" blade, 5" handle Thickness at the spine is a little less than 4 mm, or 5/32" The blade is a full flat grind on both sides, almost to a zero edge before sharpening. The steel is 115 CrV3 (also called Silversteel) I havent tested the hardness, but according to manufacturer should be 61-62 HRC with the tempering I used. The handle is burl from birch wood. sanded and oiled. I love the pattern in this wood. I sometimes stain my handles, but with this wood, I thought the natural colours were too nice to mess with. The spine and finger choil are rounded, very comfortable to use.
  26. 3 points
    Cool! As fer me: I've been in guitar land for a while. But, I got paid to draw with some soapstone for a good portion of the day. This design might be in a handrail soon.
  27. 3 points
    Fancy Friction Folder I did a few of these this weekend. Sometimes I don’t feel like doing any handles or making a sheath for fixed blades .
  28. 3 points
    Gerhard, I learned one very important thing a couple of months ago. I watched an interview of Tony Bose on YouTube, and the guy asked him how long he takes to make a single blade folding knife. Tony said he takes three days average. Now he is considered to be the best slipjoint maker alive. I always thought a single blade can be made in a day, two days max. After watching that video I slowed everything down and my quality jumped to a new level. To make a good knife means taking the time to do everything right, right from the first step. So my advice: don't rush it.
  29. 3 points
    Just read that the ABS is moving out of Washington Arkansas and to Texarkana at the college, That University Of Arkansas is taking over at Washington as James Black School of Bladesmithing. That the Bill Moran School is now at the college on Texas side in Bowie County? Im sure there is some serious politics but dang, I have some good memories of hanging out in Washington with all the people that you would expect to be there. So far i didn't find any lists of instructors at either place or specific classes,,,,,, anyone have any insight?
  30. 3 points
    The pointy moss does work better. I just hope whoever buys it understands just how finicky the process of making it was!
  31. 3 points
    I have been trying different ideas on how to make a friction folder with only two pieces of steel and a pin this is my latest attempt 12” of garage door spring and a piece of file
  32. 3 points
    And, a few more more. This little mantis hitched a ride in on my wife's black sweater, so I grabbed the camera and shot him before he jumped off. He seemed to like to "pose" for the shots, lol. A moth that was on the birch tree outside my porch:
  33. 3 points
    If at first you don't succeed, skydiving may not be for you.
  34. 3 points
    I apologize for the poor photo quality but it's late and this is the best lighting that I have available now. This blade has become on long, lean fighter type. Sometimes the steel just tells you what it wants to be. Since this one was made primarily from powdered steel, it has presented it's many of it's own unique problems along the way but I think that I've got it going my way now. I've got a nice block of oak burl on order to be used for the handle. (It seemed appropriate.)
  35. 3 points
    Here is all 5 I have been working on. All are 1095 clayed with Rutlands Furnace Cement. Blades are approximately 6-8 inches long.
  36. 2 points
    got a bit done on a couple of interesting ones today! I have zero recollection of forging the deba! - it was quite a surprise to find it was funky patternweld. I think its blue paper steel core, 15n20 cheeks, and wrought iron cladding! The biggy is a 250 x 50 gyuto, with wrought iron damascus cheeks, pure Ni barrier. Its shaping up to be a good one. I was commissioned to make it at the start of the year. It looks nice with all the etch scuz cleaned off it. Ill get some proper photos of this one when its done!
  37. 2 points
    Definitely showing a lot of progress! BTW, I wish I had a birds-eye face on my anvil
  38. 2 points
    Finished this lot bar an edge on them which will be tomorrows task and they can all head off to new homes EXCEPT for one for me and one I did just to see how it would look. A PH EDC in 1095 HC with eucalyptus and ebony A kitchen petty in 12C27 SS with beech burl Skinner in 1075 HC with cherrywood A Bushcraft Hunter in O1 with giraffe bone and leopardwood a Bird and Trout in 12C27 SS with brass under the 1/8 in blue G10 liner amd black limmen micarta handles A 5 1/2 in chef in 12c27 SS with fancy oak (for my cousin from the tree in her yard cut down some timme back) And one for my with a new meat slicer having a slightly reshaped blade and deeper hand;e section in 12C27 SS with brass and Gidgee
  39. 2 points
    I did a lot of grinding and fuller scraping last week and I have a lot of hand polishing in my future. I just thought it would be fun to give a quick update. I tweaked the profile and it looks a lot better now, and I have also scraped in 3 fullers, two on the face and a single centered one of the other side. The whole blade is ground convex to the edge, something that I see on historical seaxes but rarely on reproductions. The only real problem I have with this blade is that it is rather soft, In hindsight it would probaly have been better to water quench this steel (probably 1045 equivalent.) On the other hand I think it is still within historical hardness range and the blade flexes fine and cuts soft targets without damage. This is the first time that I fullered a long blade, and I am surprised how much stiffer it makes it, it really doesn't want to flex at all now and would be great at thrusting through light armor.
  40. 2 points
    I lived on the border of Thailand and Laos in the last days of wild west wood transfers from the forrest of Laos. Like Allen said, Knife makers are almost zero impact just like knife makers are almost zero impact on elephant tusks. Its the people that use huge pieces in furniture and maybe guitars to a certain point. Mostly what you would use in a knife handle is considered a cut off or scrap piece. With elephant tusks, its the people making sculptures and demanding large pieces and quantity. Chinese culture does not give a damm about environment, go check out what they are doing to the Mekong River. On the same topic,,,,,,, I am in the market for a chainsaw. 20 something years ago I bought a new Stihl, had it flown into my camp in Alaska,,,,,, it worked like mule at twenty below and all summer,,,, almost daily use, it was a beast, two stroke perfection. Now because of environmentally sensitive laws on two stroke engines, Stihl has been forced to try and reinvent the wheel with highly regulated designs. Where one old chainsaw was practically indestructible, the new ones do not last long, get hot, burn up, are a big pain in the back side. The same jack wagons flying around on jet airplanes to have their fancy meetings are accusing me of hating mother earth for liking the simple pleasure of a good honest chainsaw that will start every time and work. They are happy to fly around, heat up mansions, own multiple houses, dozens of cars, and fart away 500 dollar plates of food,,,, , but its us guys out here with a little forge, a old chainsaw,,,,,,,, a wood stove with a good dog in front of it nice and warm that ate Thanksgiving left overs and if were lucky had a crafted beer this Saturday night that are the evil that is destroying the earth. Note: If you use any environmentally sensitive material to make art that will stand the test of time, will be desired to own in a thousand years,,,,,, that is good thing!
  41. 2 points
    Basically,the decision is based on what is wanted/and how to get there most expeditiously. For example,that axe you forged of late in Hot Work topic(great job,btw;my internet is intermittent,and i couldn't comment just then),you chose a type of axe that is essentially almost poll-less. However,to create even the transition from poll to cheeks,as well as thin those some,and to make that transition forward all took time and energy. Potentially,especially if were you up against a design that called for more variance in mass, you could accomplish it easier or faster by welding. Heres a cool photo of a yet-unwelded components of an axe similar to one you posted: It is by a smith Mathieu Colette,from Montreal,here's his FB page: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Taillanderie-Claudel-609826759129934/photos/?ref=page_internal That photo doesn't really show that the middle piece that grips the blade and the front of socket is cleft on both ends,this kinda "bow-tie" shape in section. The blade is forged from two more pieces,and socket is comprised of three more,so this particular method is a 6-piece construction.
  42. 2 points
    This is Abi Yoyo (I'll leave it to you to find out who that is), shop built 50# This is Overkill 15hp 3ph 12 GPM about 30 tons There are some tool and fixtures in this thread that I made Geoff
  43. 2 points
    Here's the book I mentioned: http://bluemoonpress.org/index.php/hammered-symbols.html And a video of the collection (all sorts of tools, not just axes). It really helps if you speak German, but the pictures speak for themselves.
  44. 2 points
    Good news & bad news. The bad news is that this billet developed an unrecoverable flaw and had to be scrapped. Though I hate to throw away all of this work, that's just part of pushing the envelope and must be accepted. The good news is that I haven't given up and luckily have enough of the Damascus left for a new set of leaves & moss. On the good side also is this will give me a chance to enhance the Spanish moss in the pattern. As I've other projects in the works, I'll probably take my time with this but who knows.
  45. 2 points
    13.) Roman iron hammer, 1st-2nd centuries AD 14.) Ancient bronze brooch
  46. 2 points
    I dont "Plan" on using it on humans but here in Michigan there dual purpose! I've been looking at a lot of the different gransfors bruks axes and there is some interesting ones. I will find a few pictures I'm thinking of and post them.
  47. 2 points
    Oh, there's some serious smoke in the vicinity of Darwin, and it's not just the brush fires...
  48. 2 points
    From a sign in the late Grant Sarver's shop: "We can do it good, fast, and cheap. Pick any two."
  49. 2 points
    Just finished these 52100 core / 416 SS on the sides
  50. 2 points
    Nearing completion now. Need to clean up the secondary fuller, sharpen and make a leather sheathe for it. OAL: 18.25" Blade: 14" Weight: 15 ounces. Full Length Some fun color in the ivory. Wrought iron pommel cap.
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