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  1. Hi Guys It's been an age since I've posted on here. I hope everyone one is well and navigating these very strange times that we find ourselves in at the moment. This is the latest Bowie to exit the shop and I hope you enjoy looking over her. All comments and critique always welcome. All the best Steve The blade for this D-guard Bowie is made from W-1 high carbon tool steel. The blade is 283mm long, 44mm wide and just over 5mm thick on the spine which has vine file work along its edge. There's a clay quenched temper line along its cutting edge and
    12 points
  2. Just out on Amazon. Yours truly has a couple of modest chapters in this tome https://www.amazon.com/Next-Level-Knifemaking-Jason-Fry/dp/1732193029/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=knifemaking+jason+fry&qid=1612197993&sr=8-1
    8 points
  3. No knife work since right after Christmas, I've been in furniture mode. The backstory: I won a couple of steel scuba tanks with the bottom cut off at an iron-in-the-hat at my local blacksmith's guild a few years ago, and made them into bells by forging a loop up top and welding it to the body. Two I painted black, made outdoor brackets for, and sent on their merry way to deserving people. The third one, my wife saw while I was stripping the old paint and rust off and claimed it as her own, to be left in the white, not painted. It was to be an indoor bell, and I was going to make a stand f
    8 points
  4. I decided why the heck not try and get some pro edited shot of that one. I believe Caleb did great with my phone shots
    7 points
  5. I have some more pictures of the first knife, I didn’t want to include the box I made for the knife on here initially so there would be some element of surprise, but now that Josh has it in his possession I figured I would post a few more: I think I had more fun carving the box, than the actual handle!
    7 points
  6. Some WIP photos of my latest, a short-narrow seax based on archaeological finds from early medieval England. First, I smelted some steel. I used 55lb (25kg) of "Spanish Red" iron oxide (powdered hematite), and got a very dense 15lb (6.8kg) bloom. It was mostly steel (medium-high carbon, enough to harden), and very easy to forge. After 3 folds, it was a solid bar. I stacked the bloomery steel with some medium-phosphorus wrought iron from an old fence (for color contrast), forged it into two 1/4" (6mm) bars, and twisted them opposite directions.
    7 points
  7. Another Satisfied Client... (With Explanation) First of all... this Sword is a Custom Made 1st Century Fulham Gladius that is Historically Accurate/"Inspired By." It is Historically Accurate in the Blade and Hilt Shape, Weight and Balance. However the Artwork on the Guard and Pommel are "Inspired By" Roman Mosaics of that Era and not from an archeological discovery. The grip is of historical record. The inset guard plate is made of brass and carries the family name which is engraved. The sword weight 1 lbs 8 oz. and is made from 1095 high carbon steel. The point of balance is 4.25" from th
    7 points
  8. I tried figuring out where to put this but it seems much in the spirit of the fiery beard, so here it is! I made a ring as a Christmas present for my girlfriend a couple years ago, it was a simple silver lined ring made from bloomery iron. She wanted it veeeeery thin so I did so, and after a few years of daily wear the iron finally wore through in one spot, and the ring was done. So I started brainstorming the next iteration! I love the traditional spear wolf tooth pattern, and think that among the different ways to achieve this pattern it's the most impressive and interest
    6 points
  9. Recently we've had the largest snow accumulation in the past twenty years and sub-zero temps which have precluded much shop time but it has afforded me some time for design. I believe that for my next project I'm going to build a renaissance style dagger. I have started on a new variation of an explosion pattern mosaic damascus which should work well for it. Since it will have a "busy" pattern blade, I think a fairly plain hilt of blackwood & 416 will compliment it well. My biggest pre-production problem that I see is that my little mini lathe won't accept a large enough di
    6 points
  10. Something knew for me, but I really liked it. It was a customer requested project olive wood, patinad 52100 and wrought iron bolsters with nickel silver pins. Gaucho (ish) style sheath, haven't made a sheath in a while.
    6 points
  11. During my last time I got to do some forging, I took a bunch of PW cut offs I had and forged them out into blade blanks. Over the winter I have been slowly finishing them. The latest one has presented a conundrum / question; do I continue with it? Heat treated yesterday afternoon and tempered once last night. This morning I took a look at it and saw there was a slight bend at the tip of the tang. It had been tempered once so I figured I'd just try bending it out in the vise. Nope. Snapped right off. Guess I need to temper a bit more. But this was fortuitous? Found there is a weld f
    6 points
  12. This one has been on the back burner for a while but I finally got the finishing touches done today:
    6 points
  13. Recently finished tomahawk. I dubbed it the "HammerHawk" as it's previous life was spent as a ball peen hammer. Forged from a ball peen hammer, steel is cold blued, fitted with a curly maple handle, and a leather sheath.
    6 points
  14. Been a while since I've been able to work in the shop as I've been remodeling my bathroom. But finally got some time to finish this chef knife I've been working on for a friend. 144 layers 15N20 and 80CrV2 in what I'm calling crushed random (use the drawing dies on my press to crush down divots like in a ladder pattern and then flatten out). Nickel silver bolster and Patagonian Rosewood scales. 2 hidden pins holding the bolster on and 4 hidden pins on the scales. 18 cm from tip to bolster. 5 cm wide at bolster and 0.24 cm thick spine at the bolster. And yes, @Joshua States I was able to keep
    6 points
  15. I got another pirate (grandson) with a birthday coming up next month and he's in need of a treasure chest. I've got most of the woodwork done: I made the boards from some very old white oak from my grandfather's barn (thus a few worm holes). I'm thinking about ebonizing the oak with iron acetate and doing brass hardware. Or perhaps white oak with iron hardware. Still have to think on it. I do plan to round the facets on the top.
    6 points
  16. I just picked up the scabbard for my rapier. I thought he did and outstanding job:
    5 points
  17. Just in case you guys started to think I had stopped making stuff. There was a small interior remodel project I was working on, but I managed to squeeze in a few. First up, a little hunter. Flat ground O-1 3.5" blade with red bronze and nickel-silver hardware, Stabilized box elder burl handle. Next up is a O-1 Bowie. Flat ground 7-5/16" long by 1.5" wide at the choil. 410 Stainless guard and filed frame. Spacers are shibuichi with a fine silver hammered spacer and fine silver domed pins. Mammoth ivory scales.
    5 points
  18. Update: Here's a shot of it on the new custom trailer (the old one was falling apart). This boat wasn't really designed to be trailered, so it required cutting custom bunks to conform to the hull. Also, some shots of the old engine being lifted out in preparation for the new engine install. The engine is a 110 HP Yanmar. Link below. New transmission, cutlass bearing, and dripless shaft seal are also being installed. https://www.yanmarmarine.com/Products/Sailboat-and-small-craft-engines/4JH110-391/ Note
    5 points
  19. New one today. Had an enquiry about an EDC sized Khukuri so have got this trial one under way. A piece of 1075 (.170 /4mm) and decided to do a forge finish on it with a scandi grind. Drill lightened the handle so it has a blade balance for any chopping work it may be used for. I have a hunt organised at the end of the week so want to give it a run on a few goats and hopefully a deer to get some field experience in how it works as a hunting knife.
    5 points
  20. These are my latest. They are wrought iron steeled with O1. The iron came from a bridge in Iowa. The cutting edge is about 3” long. They are both rust blued. I left one brown. The other I took to black. I chose this blade shape, reminiscent of a tin snips, to show off more of the iron. The iron wouldn't tolerate any punching or twisting, so the shanks and bows are pretty plain. One blade has a square hole. The pivot screw has a mating square. The nut is used to set the 'tension' between the blades. The square assures the nut rotates with the screw. I peen the end of the thread so t
    5 points
  21. They say there is no such thing as a silly question, but...
    4 points
  22. It was suggested several times! I have even seen it hanging on a lobby wall in a couple foundries. It is kind of an in-joke with those that pour stainless. Everyone knows it happens and that it can look quite cool. It is often just too much of a mess to deal with. It is usually a horribly awkward size/shape, with lots of sharp poky bits. We never have that issue at the foundry I work at now. Nope. Never.
    4 points
  23. Started carving on the bolster yesterday and today. I just use an old dremel tool with a flex shaft that I got as a set when I was around 12 years old. In the first picture you can see the bit I used for most of it, then I switched to some dental bits I got from my dentist. I will do a final texture on the outside edges because they will get sanded again as I engrave the bone. It will all be patina’d and not be all shiny... First I carved the general shape I wanted out of the nickel silver bolster. The I started giving it a texture
    4 points
  24. got all the handles shaped up so the cutlery is looking ready for another 50 years or so. The acrylic is called spilled milk but not a lot of it shows in the smaller pieces
    4 points
  25. Dang! I had just finished resizing pics. I had to wait until today to take them (it was really cloudy yesterday) and then we lost power for about 5 hours this morning, Anyway, The pics don't do this knife justice. This came out so beautiful and it is a dream to hold in your hand. Here are some closer-up shots of Adam's spectacular artwork.
    4 points
  26. Dropped off a 6" fillet knife to a buddy of mine that owns a bait shop. He lked it so much he immediately asked for as many more as I could bring him. Also wanted 4" and 5" versions. We're on the fire department together and are going to split the proceeds 25%/25% with the other half being donated to the firefighters association. It'll cover my materials and start to get my name out there. I went back to the shop, made some templates, and started getting a bit more organized. My fun little hobby is starting to get serious.
    4 points
  27. Hello everyone! Here is my latest finished sword. I made this with an Elven ranger in mind and decided against any ornate or intricate details. I just wanted functionality. Stormbringer Elven Longsword Steel- 5160 Steel Thickness- 0.250" Hilt fittings- Mild steel with gun blued finish Handle- Leather wrapped poplar core Overall Lengrh- 43.5" Blade Length- 30" Blade Width- 2" Weight- 3lbs 10.7o
    4 points
  28. Its been a year, and actually the sword was completed and in my hands six months ago I must admit (sorry) But here, for your viewing pleasure, is Ljós a Norðan, The Light of the North. Some details: The scabbard is dark leather over wood, decorated with a one piece bone carved Norse dragon who guards the throat of the scabbard The frontside of the pommel shows a Norse warrior standing in the open doors of a great hall, Valholl itself, eternally waiting for the bearer to die in battle and join him in the celebratio
    4 points
  29. Here are a couple glam shots. I'll be honest, it's grow on me a little and it makes me feel a lot better that you guys think the handle is alright. Thank you for all the help with this knife.
    4 points
  30. Hey, everyone! I've been scouring the forums for the last few weeks reading up to get ready for my first bloomery attempt and wanted to share how it went. I went with a 4 tuyere tatara, about 10x10 inches wide, tapering to around 9 inches at the top. about 52 inches tall. I used magnetite that I've been collecting for a while from local arroyos. I ended up using 150lb of charcoal and 65lb of magnetite. Took me a bit to dial in the air flow, but ended up doing 2.3lb charcoal and 1.85lb magnetite charges every 7-8 minutes on averag
    4 points
  31. Something new for me I had a request for a boot knife. Came up with a dagger and fighter design he liked the fighter style better. I had never thought about them before now I like them.
    4 points
  32. I went back to that test blade I made from this material and went to the side I had left off with Uchigumori-Ji benchstone. On this I had used very hard and fine Jizuya, and then kanahada nugui. The base polish can use some work toward the tip as there are some coarse remnants left, making it harder to discern hada. After Jizuya Then after Hadori, with nugui
    4 points
  33. Progress has been slow on this, I needed to set it aside to work on a commission, and progress on that has been slow. I cant remember ever being less productive, or at least it seems that way. any way I forced my self to make some progress on this today. I got the blade polished out the makers marks added, the pommel plates etched , the guard blued and polished and all the stones set in place. .. all I have left before I pass it back to Jordan is to fab the scabbard core, etch the blade, and set the plates in the pommel. MP
    4 points
  34. I have made a couple of different versions of these and my latest set is pretty versatile and works very well. So I thought i would share the design. I start out with 1.5" square solid bars and some 1.5" angles to keep them oriented. The angle iron was thin, so I welded in some 1" rounds to support them. I have the benefit of an automated stop system to keep them from compressing too far. Then I made a top die with 1" square solid that will index into the 1.5" to make 1" squares. And a 3/4" top die that does the same.
    4 points
  35. Hi, i started new huge project. The aim of this project is to forge at least 5 replicas of earlymedieval spearheads from Lednickie lake. I am going to use only bloomery iron and charcoal as a fuel. This project is realized in collaboration with archaeometallurgist, the results will be published. link to the catalog below. http://studialednickie.pl/pobierzpdf,bron-drzewcowa-i-uzbrojenie-ochronne-z-ostrowa-lednickiego-giecza-i.pdf some examples of spearheads: The first one i forged is spear catalog number 15. It has been forged of 5 elements.
    4 points
  36. I do my work out of a shared workshop so we have a wonderful mix of newbies, amatuers, and experts. So over this last weekend I created something to help the new and less experienced people at the space practice their welding skills and take home something more interesting than a plate with attempts to weld straight beads. Im hopeful one of these days I'll stop doing facility projects and actually work on my own stuff but my to-do list on both sides keeps getting longer not shorter.
    4 points
  37. Guys I have some step by step photos of this build, but they're on my phone. I'll have to load them to the PC and then to the picture host. If you fancy I can show some more detail on the build of this project. ATB Steve
    3 points
  38. Like many others who started out, I started out with the basic gear, A cheap Harbor Freight ASO, some crappy files, and a 1x30 Grinder, Did all of my heat treat by eye in my Charcoal forge. I have upgraded a lot of my tools since starting out, But the one process I have not been able to upgrade was the heat treatment process. Sure I went from Charcoal to Propane, but I still lacked the temp control and stability of an electric oven. Till now.... Short of taking up knifemaking as a whole, this is the most ambitious project I have ever attempted. I am by no means an electrical
    3 points
  39. I had some jewelry work to do before Christmas. I had some little copper flat pieces that required a lot of file shaping. I was trying to hold them between my finger and thumb, but this was proving to be awkward. I have been wanting to mount one of the V-blocks the jewelers use on my bench, so I was looking through some videos on basic jeweler’s tools and came across the wooden hand vise. Being too tight to buy one, I sawed a section from an old chair leg and proceeded to make a serviceable tool for myself. I’d say this is nothing new to many of you, but thi
    3 points
  40. I was thinking of starting with a 1.25" ball bearing. Then I got the idea to go low layer Damascus twist with a few raindrops. Here's my progress from yesterday. I'm feeling a Tanto is the direction I go next if I don't find any delaminations.
    3 points
  41. I discovery (at least for me) in my foray into can damascus. On a random tip I tried using Kilz primer on the inside of the can. It works the way whiteout does, but a spray can of it is just a few $. The can almost took itself off. If you've watched any of the FiF guys, me included, struggle getting the can off a billet, this feels like cheating. I coated the inside of the can, and let it dry. Letting it dry is the issue, it needs time to do that. You can cook it in an oven, or speed the process with a torch. I took the ends off the can and ran a cutting disk down the flats.
    3 points
  42. I, for one, would love to see your results. What can we do to encourage you to try? Should we give you loving encouragement and affirmations? Or should we mock you relentlessly as a coward to light a fire under you? Either way, I'm sure we're all here to help in whatever motivational support you need.
    3 points
  43. I haven't gotten in much shop time recently as I'm doing some one on one classes but I did manage to rough out the rest of the components:
    3 points
  44. http://www.chrischristenberry.com/ Click on the pics for additional pics.
    3 points
  45. This project has been on the back burner for a while but I managed to get the ivory handle scales glued & pinned. I made a small change to the handle of this one as the spacer between the new & fossil ivory is now of both 416 & brass. Eventually it will get a fuller filed down the center of it (as will the oval guard). Everything is still very rough now as I decided to do all of the final shaping of the hilt on this one after being glued & pinned. I'll just need to be extra careful not to let the ivory get too hot when shaping it. [I've put off makin
    3 points
  46. I had the strangest thing happen today. Well, a couple of strange things actually. First i woke up with this crazy idea of how to attempt to fix that crack in the 3-bar seax. If you remember, it was this one. Well, my idea was to either take the TIG to it and try and fuse the thing back together, or maybe take a very small sliver of 1095 (matches the edge bar) and either gas weld it into the crack, or spot weld it to the crack and try to forge it back together. I figured that I had nothing to loose, because the blade was toast anyway. First I had to break t
    3 points
  47. Went into the chainsaw shop to get a small flat file and saw this. Very cool.
    3 points
  48. Well that's neat. Looks like a 'Fir-ier" pattern.
    3 points
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