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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/17/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    At long last . . . Here are the AF 2016 demo videos. Huge thanks to Michael Bergstrom of WildDog Creative who volunteered all the labor, equipment, and massive editing it took to put these together! Michael's a member of the forum and is making some pretty nice swords of his own lately. Enjoy guys! Dave
  2. 8 points
    Little broke back, wrought and 1075, nickle silver and white tail antler Sword with bloom iron core, 1075 edge, bog oak and copper inlay fittings Wolfs tooth seax, wrought, 1075 edge, brass and maple burl Tiny tiny knife. Micro twist spine of 1075 and 15n20, serpent of mild and wrought, edge of 1075, copper and maple burl Large seax is 1095 ans 15n20 made by my friend and i handled it Serpent seax Little broke back pweld with antler and bogoak
  3. 5 points
    Hi, so I finally finished this one. Many thanks to everyone who offered their advice. So my intention was a fusion of a western fighting knife with Japanese style. Obviously I'm not the first to try it, I certainly won't be the last. I wish I could have done fullers but they were beyond my current skill level. Unfortunately this blade was my second attempt and I have a very similar one with horriibly uneven fullers. Blade is 9" of W2, sharp coming and going. Blued damascus fittings, and curly maple handle. I know the cord isnt traditional, and the knots aren't correct. If any one knows the correct knots for a handle were wrap doesn't pass under handle please let me know. Thanks for looking.
  4. 4 points
    Dagger, knife and two pins, reconstructions from the Bronze Age in the Carpathians. Knife 28.5 cm, weight 150 grams. Dagger 37 cm, weight 440 grams. Pin,19 cm, weight 45 grams. Zoomorphic dagger. Koban culture, 1100 - 400 B.C,Caucasus. Length 30 cm, weight 210 grams. Scythian set. Ax head length 16 cm, weight 235 grams. The length of the whole 56 cm. Tin bronze + wood + boar bristle and horse mane + braided cord made of linen. Knife length 27 cm, weight 170 grams, hand engraving. Bronze Age in Carpathian zone. Two axe,Bronze Age in the Carpathian,1300 B.C. The larger one with round head, 17 cm long, weight 190 grams, smaller, with decorations 13,5 cm, weight 220 grams. Koban culture,axe. Koban culture, 1100 - 400 B.C, ax. Weight 220 grams, head length 14.5 cm, length 66 cm. Hand engraved. Scythian bronze axe. Scythian ax. Head weight 200 grams, length 14 cm. The length of the whole 64 cm. Hand engraved.
  5. 4 points
    Not necessarily something I'd recommend, but apparently my bush swords are mini-fridge rated. Customer pics. minifridge by James Helm, on Flickr minifridge2 by James Helm, on Flickr
  6. 3 points
    I'm not sure this will work. I've lost power at the house and only have my phone on mobile data....... There was a question about how to grind the bevels in a clipped point on a Bowie knife on another forum especially a curved clip and I put together a short video of how I do this. The video is about 18 minutes long, but the grinding is less than 10 minutes. In a short time, I take the bevels from zero to 220 grit.
  7. 3 points
    4.5" blade 15N20 1088 steels 9.25 OAL Fossil walrus scales Damascus bolsters Yup, I still make stuff like this...just not that often.
  8. 3 points
    It was such a beautiful morning here today that I got in a little shop time before needing to open my retail shop. This one is getting far enough along now to start to take shape:
  9. 3 points
    I've all of the pieces roughed out (except the escutcheons). I decided to go with desert ironwood for the handle. Now to fit the pieces of the puzzle together.
  10. 3 points
    800 grit, quick etch in new batch of FeCl and polish. Beating myself up about the handle, need to do something special but keep it light and fast....
  11. 3 points
    It’s all stock removal from here on out. Profiled and rough ground: One of four normalizing steps. The first one cause a big warp that I hammered out on a stump with a wooden mallet. I did my usual 3 normalization passes after that. A couple of tempering cycles at 390F during which I removed a small warp along the spine Then it is time for final grinding and lots of hand sanding. I took it up to a 360 grit aluminum oxide belt on the grinder, and then started with 220 grit Rhynowet redline paper by hand. Ultimately I went up to P800 before etching. Then I did several cycles of 10 minutes in ferric chloride followed by P1200 grit paper. I didn’t count, but probably did 5 cycles like that. I’m looking for very well polished 15N20 stripes, but minimal topology on the surface. After I was done with the ferric cycles, it went into some hot instant coffee for a few hours. Here is a test etch at 220 grit: Handle Time! I probably do this a bit differently than most, so take the approach with a grain of salt. First I have to make and attach the bolsters. I solder them on, but use hidden pins to help with the alignment shaping and soldering. I take a roughly shaped piece of brass, and drill through the holes in the tang for 1/16” pins. I am careful to not drill to deep so that the pins won’t get exposed during shaping. This is a bit tricky because the tang is tapered from spine to belly, and you have to compensate for the angle, or the pins won’t fit right. (I did a WIP on that process a while ago Once both bolster blanks are drilled, I pin them and superglue them together so I can file them to shape Then I break them apart and inlet the wood scales. Curved bolster to wood junctions are cool, but add a lot of time. I used the same process Kentucky rifle makers use to inlet barrels into the stock. Put inletting black on the brass, press it against the wood, and remove any wood the has a black spot on it. Then repeat about a 100 times. (Only I don’t have any inletting black so I used one of my wife’s old lipsticks) Then I epoxy one scale in place. Once the epoxy is set I roughly shape the scale to match the tang just to get the extra material out of my way, and drill through the tang holes into the scale. Then I epoxy the other scale blank into place and drill back through the holes to get the pin locations in the second scale. I put cutler’s rivets in after the knife handle nears it’s final profile. I wait until then because the heads are not very thick, so you pretty much have to know where the surface of the handle is going to be to cut the counter bores for the rivet to the right depth. The epoxy holds thing fine in the mean time. The sandpaper is the shim I used to compensate for the taper in the tang I do most of my handle shaping with rasps and files. The grinder is just to aggressive for my skill level. Parts of the bolsters can’t get shaped until this stage, so that gets taken care of with the rest of the handle. This was a nice piece of box elder burl I bought, but it has a small void that got opened up during shaping. I filled this up with a little epoxy. You have to work it a bit to get the bubbles out, but it is invisible on the finished handle. Bubbles: No bubbles! (I need to make a special vacuum chamber for this sort of thing...) I managed to scuff the blade during finishing. Normally I tape the blades up during assembly, but I got lazy this time, and paid the price in the end. I was fortunate in that I was able to polish it out with 800 and 1200 grit, but it had to go back into the coffee for a couple of hours. I wasn’t sure how the handle materials were going to respond. I kept them as dry as possible, and it worked fine. These are 1/4" head cutler's rivets. I wish I had used a size down, but I'll have to wait until the next knife for that little improvement. I’ve got to take some glamor shots of the knife this week. I’ll post those when I get them done.
  12. 2 points
    Hi, here are a few I have for sale. East meets west fighter asking $500. Camp knife, asking $340. Wa-Gyuto, asking $200. Prices include insured priority mail. Reasonable offers will be considered. Only posting one pic as these have all been in threads before. If you want more pics or details just ask. Thanks for looking, please pm me if interested. -Justin Carnecchia
  13. 2 points
    Making the cabochons for the handle overlay: 1/8" nickel silver: silver soldered to a 1/4" brass rod: Ground to shape on my 2x72: Applied to ironwood handle:
  14. 2 points
    Shoot shovel and shut-up (The advice our local sheriff gave my wife when she asked about what to do with stray dogs running around in the country that were chasing her chickens)
  15. 2 points
    With broken back style saxes, the fullers and grooves DO frequently run off the tip (but not always). However, they occur on longsaxes, not the shorter ones. There are very few short broken back style saxes with grooves, none with fullers that I'm aware of. Also the arrangement is different: grooves in the top part of the blade and fuller, if present, in the centerline. Examples: Heusden, Little Bealings, Beagnoth. A single fuller surrounded by grooves, where the grooves come together before the end of the blade is a typical 7th century feature, mostly applied to continental broadsaxes, though also on some longsaxes, including anglo-saxon ones (but not broken back style).
  16. 2 points
    I made contact with one of the competitors on the next season of FIF: Knife or Death, bomp, bomp, baaaaaaaa! I have forged up an "Unlimited Class Competition Chopper" (UCCC). It's sort of a hybrid Dha style with a short, axe-like reverse edge. I watched all of the episodes of Knife or Death (be advised, no one dies on the show, sad!), with my bladesmith eyes on. I made notes of which blades worked well and which ones didn't Here are some things I noticed. 1) Within broad limits, longer blades worked better. More reach, more edge length, more leverage. 2) Being able to go two handed as strength and cardio limits were reached was an advantage. 3) Some targets were cuts, some targets were chops. With that in mind I developed what I am calling an "Unlimited Class Competition Chopper" (UCCC) and this is my first take on the style. Dha style with a long handle. So long as there are no stabbing challenges on the course a point is just a weak spot with no utility. The full length edge is (will be, it's not quite there, which is good for my fingers) sharp, sharp enough to cut rope or flesh. The reverse edge is like an axe, a little steeper geometry, made to chop. By having two edges I hope to avoid loss of sharpness as the cutter proceeds through the course. The handle will be Ipe with threaded inserts and cap head allen screws and a wrist lanyard hole. I built this in L6, tempered back to about 56-58 Rc. It should be tough and it should hold up well. 25 inches OL BL 15 inches OL Just under 2 lbs This is headed off to the new user and (fingers X'd) show contestant, next week
  17. 2 points
    This piece has been around for some time now. It found it's way back to my shop for some minor cosmetic uplift and a scabbard. It had never been photographed or shown before now. Blade 7.5" 11" OAL Hollow ground 15N20 and 1088 steels African Blackwood carved hilt Pattern welded fittings
  18. 2 points
    Blade Length 12.5" OAL 17" Steel 15N20 1088 Damascus bolsters, file worked spine Bocote scales.
  19. 2 points
    Here are a couple of finished shots I took tonight. I am finishing up a stand for it, so there will be more pics in a few days.
  20. 2 points
    You're making progress! I've only ever TIG'd once. Seemed like to me the trick was to get the base metal hot and introduce one careful drop at a time from the electrode, then weave it a bit. I believe I pushed the puddle. It's a bit like patting your head and rubbing your stomach while hopping on one foot.
  21. 2 points
    Hello everyone, I am very excited to show you my latest knife! This one is an Eastern fusion dagger. I took a very Western blade style, the double edged dagger, and used a variety of Eastern techniques and materials to give a unique spin on a traditional blade. Hope you enjoy! First, a little bit of info on the blade:The blade is hand forged out of W-2 and was differentially quenched with clay, leaving a subtle, icy hamon down its length. The habaki and guard are made from nickel-copper mokume gane, hand forged by me, ~36 layers. The habaki has a bias ground pattern and the guard has a very tight raindrop pattern. Both the guard and habaki were patinated in liver of sulfur and then brushed with high grit sandpaper for a rustic black, orange, and silver finish. Behind the guard, there is a wrought iron spacer that has been blackened. The handle is spalted jatoba burl stabilized by K&G. Its color ranges from tan to a deep orange brown with vibrant black spalting, it matches the mokume and wrought iron very well. The tang itself is a through-tang, and is peened over a mokume gane spacer and an inlayed piece of wrought iron. I also made a nice vertical stand for the blade. The base is made from curly spalted maple and features a live edge on the back. On the top is a decorative copper piece with a naturally aged patina, and a small piece of inlayed black leather for the tip of the dagger to rest firmly and safely in. The pole holding the dagger is hand forged wrought iron, I forged it square, twisted it, and hot cut it to form a small nook for the handle of the blade to sit in, before seating it securely in the base.Now for the stats:OAL: ~13.25"Blade Length: Just Over 8"Blade Width: Just Under 1" at its Widest PointBlade Thickness: ~.25" w/ a Distal Taper in Both DirectionsBlade Steel: Differentially Quenched W-2Handle Materials: Nickel-Copper Mokume Gane, Wrought Iron, Stabilized Spalted Jatoba BurlStand Dimensions: 5"x8.5"x10.5" (WidthxDepthxHeight)Stand Materials: Curly Spalted Maple, Black Leather, Copper, Wrought IronNow for some pictures (I apologize for the poor quality, photography is not my strong suit ):I'm not a super well known maker, but I like doing these challenging, creative builds to help increase my skill and hopefully get my name out there. In the interest of improving, let me know what you think! I can take criticism pretty well, so don't hold back. If you have any questions about the build feel free to ask down below as well Thanks for looking,-Grant
  22. 2 points
    This has been a very slow project and, as per usual, has relied heavily on my good friend Mr. James Higson. I've learned an awful lot during the making of this piece and am by no means happy with the result, however I am very glad it's finally finished. The blade is made of 4 bars of twisted 15N20 and EN42J, handle is olive and the stand is olive and neodymium magnets.
  23. 2 points
    And here the finished knife : [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Ruggero
  24. 2 points
    I was jammin Metallica earlier after I read this and this popped in my head lol. Enter Bloodaxe: Say your prayers, Haraldson For it must be done To include everyone Crafts of war Serpent's eyes Blade from venom's life Jörmangandr's suprise! (Yeah) Sleep with both eyes open Unless you wish to die! Eitr knife! Bane of life! Bloodaxe blade! From serpent venom it was made! I just thought I'd share my enthusiasm for the concept I like it! Look in forward to see what you do.
  25. 2 points
    Might be veering off topic here.... I've been tinkering around with an idea similar to that. In this case I have CruForge V at the edge and some medium carbon steel above it. With some pure nickel in there for good measure. I ran out of propane and am currently waiting for the propane guy to come and set a 500 gallon tank. Once that guy gets installed, it's game on. Gonna be forging this bar into a knife real soon. Wanted to weld up a small billet just to make sure everything would stick.
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