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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 10/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Hello! this is The Moon's Daughter, a type XVIII b sword that we started in the May Sword Reflections class of Tannery Pond with Zack Jonas and Peter Jonnhson. finally we finished it. is a pattern welded sword. (1095/1070) the thickness at the cross is 6 mm and the width is 47 mm. The length of the blade is 94 cm and it is 118 in total length. is built following the guidelines dictated by Peter J for the class, many thanks to PJ, ZJ and the classmates for such beautiful days
  2. 7 points
    Hi All This was supposed to be a feather damascus blade, well that worked on one side but I really liked the other side so I continued with it. Total length 48 cm (19 inch) blade 35 cm (13.75 inch) Stabilised Elm burr capped with brass fittings. I might have to have another go at the photo's and a detail shot. Richard
  3. 6 points
    Hello everyone. Finally something (allmost) ready. Puukko with turkish walnut handle and brass fittings. Blade is german springsteel. Sheath will be ready later. I will add the pictures then. Hope you like it...Best regards..Lauri
  4. 5 points
    This one is for no one in particular. The rest of the design is yet to be decided. Any and all input welcome. This is one of a possible batch of 3. One will be tactical-ish (going to an ex marine), the other maybe more classic western (Might even go for a straight profile instead of a recurve), and this one is unknown, but I think it should be a different style than the others.
  5. 5 points
    For a while, now, I've been working on a surprise project for my grandfather, and now his knife--the Neal Farm Knife--is finished! It's far from perfect, but what it lacks in perfection I would like to think it makes up for in character. The blade was forged from the drive shaft of a piece of equipment on my grandpa's farm (yes, I tested it, and it hardens very well), and the handle was made from a piece of Osage Orange (hedgeapple wood) that grew on the farm, and which he often used to make fence posts. You can see the leftover steel and wood in this photo, as well. I left the blade, including the hexagonal integral bolster, as forge-finished as possible, meaning that the steel you see here has barely touched a grinder--aside from cleaning up the shape of the spine and tip a bit, the steel was made this way by my hand, with hammers and sweat. The tang underwent plenty of grinding, admittedly, to get it to fit into the handle material :P. The handle is a hidden tang construction, epoxied and pinned in place. I followed the octagonal shape of the bolster, but curved and flared it to be more comfortable. I had a bit of a mishap with vinegar, trying to re-patina the spots on the steal I hit with the file, and it soaked up into the wood, discoloring half the handle. I couldn't sand it out, and I wasn't really digging the two-tone look, so I went all-in and did a distressed look with the wood, which still has a bit of the two-tone effect, but honestly goes well with the forge-finished steel, in my opinion. There was a crack in the piece of wood my family sent me, but I don't think my grandpa is going to put much hard use into the knife, so I mixed epoxy with sawdust from the wood and filled the crack with it, which seemed to work out pretty well. It isn't perfect, but I'm proud of it, and I hope my grandpa likes it! He has always meant a lot to me, and played a big role in my life as I grew up.
  6. 4 points
    Well, here they are sorry for the grainy cell phone pics.
  7. 4 points
    Wasn't done today, but over a few weekends. Finally had time to take a pic or two:
  8. 4 points
    My plan for this one is to make a small, stylish gentleman's dagger with a mosaic blade and a hilt of snakewood which will be fluted & inlayed with twisted silver wire lengthwise and 416 fittings: I folded the billet once giving me 40 layers and then started the "W" squeeze(s). I stopped at 40 x 16 which will be 4-wayed twice and then tile cut: Here's the blade smithed & normalized: The blade ready for H/T: Starting on the hilt fittings (416): The blade is in the tempering oven now. I'll try to keep you updated on my progress. Gary
  9. 4 points
    I just finished a new dagger. It is based on some examples that are in the Royal Armoury at Leeds. There is more information and pictures on my page: https://crownforge.net/2017/11/04/15th-century-rondel-long-dagger/
  10. 4 points
    Poor design and lack of functionality: This is a knife more likely to hurt the user than do anything useful. A customer of mine has one of these, and sent it to me for regrinding because he thought maybe he was sharpening it wrong. Nope. The blade is over 1/4" thick, closer to 5/8", and the bevels are too shallow to produce an effective cutting edge. I ended up giving it a hollow grind above the edge with a convexed edge. Then it sorta could maybe cut, kind of. His was also bent because he'd been trying to straighten a spearshaft with that hole in the blade. And what the heck is that step good for? It can't be sharpened properly to use as a shavehook or spokeshave. And nobody is gonna skin anything with this. The sawteeth are too shallow and obtuse to work on green wood, and your teeth would do a better job on dry softwood. It would just scratch up dry hardwood. Nevertheless, these things are popular among some crowds, like small Japanese cars with bumblebee mufflers are among others. I see it as nature's way of letting you know who's an idiot so you can avoid them, or attempt to educate them if that's your thing. That said, it does have a certain fantasy cool factor, and it is marketed to people who think something has to look cool to be cool, nevermind if it's actually useful. My mantra is "People are generally stupid (members of this forum excluded, of course!) and can reliably be counted upon to do stupid things." Then again as my mother says, there's no accounting for taste either. I choose to ignore this kind of thing. If the maker were to call this a seax, now, there might be a fight!
  11. 4 points
  12. 4 points
    Jake welded pieces of old, fibrous iron into a rod and forge out of it, or if I have some bigger piece of it out of it. I find them on the scrap. As for finishing (shine or mat) I do it as iron tells me .... because it wants it anyway or maybe .... maybe it's stupid but many times i did something like i put it on but it was different ... just the material he wants is a spear from him it will be a spear and not an ax .... Charlez spear forge on the side of the anvil and every now and then I put into the mold and hammer 5 kilos of wale..hahahah .... Recipe for a spear with a "ridge" after the old. 1.Clean the hearth 2.Make a fire 3. Iron the 2.2 cm thick iron rod to flatness at one end 4.This flat end is formed in the sleeve 5. Move the rod under the "leaf" of the spear 6.Profile the leaf on the anvil 7. Apply the leaf in the form of a 5-kilogram hammer 8.During some time profiling on the anvil Give your neighbor a sharp wooden pole. Bon Appetit!
  13. 4 points
    And finished VID_50700907_130308_888.mp4
  14. 3 points
    Hello: I have been more or less "away" from here due to the fact that we are working on getting a new place down in Florida..and we DID.. In Spring Hill in fact ..So..I am now working Balls to the Wall trying to get as much "stuff" done as I can so I can build a new studio. .. Our new place is close to 2 acres. A 1800 sq ft home (we are trading "down: in size from 3200 Sq Ft that we had in NV...) with LOTS of room to build a kick arse studio....PLUS there are numerous semi-wild pea fowl running all over the place (yummmmm better than turkey or even pheasant ..GOOD EATING believe me, they are TASTY!!!.) So here is the first part of what I have managed to get done since Nov 1.. (I still have like 6 more pieces I have to put the grip studs in and I will post them here shortly once they are done..) So in the words of "The Great One".. Jackie Gleason.. And Away We GO!! If the grip material on some of these look a tad bit familiar..it's some of that pre WWI Bakelite that I managed to get a while back.. Now as far as I know that recurved thingamabob with the Bovine Ivory grip is the longest piece of "Mosaic Damascus" made to date in the United States (if not world wide....but I dunno for sure about that...so...) with a 34" long blade. Something to consider... It is wicked.... Heh heh heh All of these PLUS the half dozen I will be finishing tomorrow will be posted to my site sometime tomorrow evening...Also I will be having a "Jim Needs Money to Build a Studio" sale that will start tomorrow evening as well.. (Shameless plug) So let me know what ya'all think about these.. Take care.. JPH
  15. 3 points
    Alrighty, fellow smiths! I have been working on this project for a little over a year now, and I finally feel like it is safe to post about it. I don't have a lot to show, at the moment, but I plan on keeping track of my progress throughout the creation of the various hilt components. The blade is made of 1084, and the blade is sitting just shy of 36" with an additional 10" of tang. These first few pictures are from before heat treat and polishing. A picture of my ugly self holding the blade for scale (pre heat treat). Here are two pictures of the blade after I finished the bevel grinding (post heat treat) And here is the only picture I currently have of the blade after I finished all of the polishing. I did not want a mirror finish, so I sanded to 800 Grit and then smoothed out the lines with a 5,000 grit automotive buffing pad. I found that this gave me a very smooth finish, but it does not reflect like a mirror. Unfortunately, I am a terrible photographer and I am having difficulty getting a picture of the full thing without the fuller blending out. Hopefully I will get some better shots soon (I'm very proud of how crisp I managed to keep the fuller). And that is where I am at. This is my third attempt at making a sword, and this is the farthest I have made it, yet. The previous two attempts failed first at bad grinding and second at heat treating. For that reason, I decided to wait to post anything about this sword until after I had successfully passed heat treating and grinding. Now that I am "in the clear" (yea, right), I plan on working to complete the piece by the end of the year. I have time off over thanksgiving and Christmas break, as I work for a University, so I should be able to accomplish it (hopefully). The last picture I have here is the concept art for what I plan to do with the guard, grip, and pommel. I have a ton of wrought iron, so the guard and pommel will be made of it. I plan on doing a leather wrap around a poplar wood grip. Despite all the research that I have tried to do, I still feel incredibly ignorant of how accurate my design is, or how it will affect the actual use of the sword. So, I request that anyone that does have a good understanding, point out any errors in my design that you see! Thanks for taking a look and for any constructive criticism that is offered!
  16. 3 points
    Howdy y'all. I finally got around to finishing the sheath for this knife . (It's amazing what a rapidly approaching show will do for your incentive). It still needs some wax cleanup and polishing, but the construction and dying is all done. It is fully lined with kip. I've been experimenting with sheath making and decided to try making a sheath that could be worn either hanging straight down from the belt loop or high on the hip in a cross draw fashion. Here is the back to show how the belt loop is made. And the two ways of wearing it.
  17. 3 points
    Here is the rack of knives I made for the upcoming art show in November. I still have some clean up and sharpening to do, but I needed to get these posted on fb. The blades are all 1095 and between 5 and 10 inches long. The handles are all natural or stabilized wood.
  18. 3 points
    I'm going to tell you what I tell everyone with a "new" anvil. It doesn't matter if it's new to you or brand new, like this one. Do nothing to it. Use it for a year. If after that time there are things you really don't like, fix those things. It's much harder to put metal on an anvil than it is to take it off. Having said that, you may find something right away that doesn't work for you. Fix what you have to, don't do ANYTHING you don't have to, even if someone tells you to. Just my .02 Geoff
  19. 3 points
    Not me! We have a generous patron who has thus far refused all efforts at financial assistance. I'm just the doorman because my job is mostly sitting at a computer.
  20. 3 points
    I just finished my second session of this class at tannery pond forge in NH , we focused on longswords this time and it I was another incredible experience, figured the group might enjoy my daily progress photos. MP
  21. 3 points
    Have made up a pair of these and am pleased with how they feel in hand. The hunter butcher has a 4 1/2 inch 1095 blade with buffalo horn bolster and blackwood handle with a flaired butt end for greater directional controll, while the boner has a 4 inch 1095 blade and a simple losenge shaped blackwood handles as it will often be used from the bottom of the hand as often as it is from the top of the hande for boning out. They will both come in standard carry sheaths. Am gong to make a few sets and will see how they are recieved. I have "discovered" a new way of finishing the handles and now sit them in a tin of BLO for a few hours then wipe off rather than finger tip rubbing in multiple coats over many days. It was the way the old Enfield factory finished LE rifles stocks but they left them 24 hours so it will certainly be good and faster finish for the knife handles as well. Finished another little field scalpel as well with 2 1/2 in 1084 blade and buffalo handles with a slightly redesigned rounded end.
  22. 3 points
    just finished dressing this wee one up a bit - re-polished, etched and sharpened the blade, added a lanyard hole and a suspension ring to the sheath, re did the wrap with a pair of simple forged copper menuki to give a bit of a palm swell, and lacquered the wrap to protect it. 2 3/4" 1095 blade, cord and copper:
  23. 3 points
    Been there done that as well, but yeah, that's nice grain! That's also why the toaster oven is in the shop. Not broken, but physically near the forge. Just so you know...
  24. 3 points
    Good day Presently I am unable to post on my blog and was planning to use this project to share some of the steps involved (working hard on recalling the password though). The blade is 1m long, 50mm wide and 10mm thick at the shoulders. After designing and planning on paper, the raw material for the hilt components are measured and cut according to the final dimensions required. The pieces are then forged and filed to the specified shape. Here you can also see one of the special tongs used to hold pieces in place for welding. Hope this helps answering a few questions.
  25. 3 points
    1080 /15N20 twisted crushed W's with stainless fittings and Turkish Walnut handle. Tried to make the sheath match the handle.
  26. 3 points
    Zeb yeah I'm getting closer to the idea I want. Sketches in steel haha
  27. 3 points
    Later stages: The grip core had to be shapes to accommodate the thumb ring and the ferrule shaped accordingly. This is the standard beech core with cord binding and leather risers with a wash of hide-glue. The wire wrap consists of brass and iron wire twisted together.
  28. 2 points
    Hello everyone! Vorace is the other sword that we brought from wilmot, from Tannery Pond of the Sword Reflexions class of May of this year. It is made in 5160 steel following the directives of the class curriculum. the total length is 122 cm and the blade measures 96 cm. the weight is 1.6 kgs. hope you like. Sorry for my bad English
  29. 2 points
    These were both for my table at NYCKS, the blades are two differnet patternes of mosaic damascus, we got a new shop mate here at Dragons breath forge, Mereko Maumasi he is a bit of a wizard with mosaic and some of his ideas have infected me. The spidy pattern came about after showing him the parent bar and he had an idea and drew out the pattern..looked so cool I went with it. the shooting star pattern was one i came up with, putting together some things I have been playing with along with some of Marekos methods. Totally looking forward to exploring these ideas further. the spidy pattern is maple with bronze and G10 spacers the shooting star is Koa with nickle silver and G10.
  30. 2 points
    So you should be. You have a name to live up to (Sorry, I couldn’t resist)
  31. 2 points
    Hello everyone, haven't posted on here in awhile. Here is a video I finished recently. The style is after British Elwell hogsplitter cleavers. The steel used is from a thick section of a Ford leaf spring.
  32. 2 points
    Some close ups. Richard
  33. 2 points
    This is a slippery slope. There are a lot of "Damascus" patterns that must ground into shape to see. Ladder and twist being two popular ones. Someone starting with 13 or 15 pieces of steel will have a lot more forging time in to make that 500 layer flat billet than someone who forges a mono-steel blade to shape. (Assuming they have equal skill and equipment) Personally, I think the original question is moot and divisive. Pretty much every forged blade becomes s stock removal project before it is done. I don't see why this forged vs ground rift exists.
  34. 2 points
    I got my Kanca 110 pound anvil today. Boy is it going to be a BIG step up from pounding on a vise. I have to finish mounting it to the big Elm stump. I'm excited. I need to learn how to properly dress the anvil. Anyone have any tips? One of my dogs was checking it out, too. Warner
  35. 2 points
    I missed this thread, but those are really cool little anvils. If your company was up for it, I think a really good seller would be something slightly more robust than the Old World Anvils 4X4. You see a lot of new smiths looking for a starter anvil. A small post anvil that was 5" square and 12"-18" long would be a great starter for most bladesmiths. I'll bet you guys could sell the heck out of them, especially if you cast into them some holes or lash points that could be used to secure it to a stump or stand. Neat project! Dave
  36. 2 points
    Not today but recently this is what I have been working on.
  37. 2 points
    I'd start by moving your detector. CO is dangerous to breath, not to have above your head. A lot of the fire by-products are going to be hot, and thus rise to the rafters. They will then leak out your open doors (around the top of the door). Put your detector at about head level (I assume you are not 8 feet tall ). Maybe hang it from the rafter near your anvil (but where you won't hit it while swinging the hammer). That will represent what you are actually breathing, and let you know if you really have a problem.
  38. 2 points
    I've another day or two of handle work but it's getting to where I can see the end:
  39. 2 points
    If the gaps are small enough, then Zeb's idea is a good one. He is right about solder potentially being a mess though. I hate the stuff. But your mileage may vary and you may like using solder. You can also take a small ball peen hammer, and peen carefully around the slot. It will close up the gaps. Grind the face of the guard down until the peen marks are gone, and check the fit. Keep doing this until the gaps are closed, the fit is tight, and the peen marks are gone.
  40. 2 points
    Might as well add this second blade to the WIP. I forgot the other blade at home, so I couldn't work on it. I didn't take pictures of it's forging process, but I forged It out, ground it and heat treated it earlier. Which is good progress since I started so late. It seems it may have a very cloudy hamon with some utsuri over it. I think my clay was a tad thick. My hamon is very low. This blade is somewhere in the 10" relm, but the tang is really long so the blade looks short in photos. I used soapstone to kind of draw the unfinished bevels and highlight the hamon line. Well, here it is!
  41. 2 points
    This was my inspiration plus I added a little of my own to it.
  42. 2 points
    Here is a custom Chef's Knife I just finished up for a customer. The 22,5cm blade is forged in an exotic jet-turbine alloy mixed with high carbon steel, folded to 44 layers, twisted and laminated in a san-mai lamination with Øberg-steel for the core. The handle is in stabilized Zebra wood, Jamaican blue mahoe, buffalo horn and vulcanized fiber. weight: 214 grams Blade length: 22,5 cm Blade width: 3,5 cm Blade thickness: 4 mm Blade hardness: 63 HRC Handle length: 12,5 cm Handle thickness: 1,7cm Any and all critique is as always most welcome. sincerely, Alveprins.
  43. 2 points
    Sorry, just had flashback to the Monty Python sketch with a Mr. Raymond Luxury-Yacht being interviewed by a reporter who pronounced it the way it's spelled. Mr. Luxury-Yacht (Graham Chapman) says "No, no..." and the reporter (Michael Palin) says "sorry, Mr. Raymond Luxury Yachet." Chapman then insists it's pronounced "throat-warbler Mangrove," at which point Palin says "You're a looney." This non sequitur brought to you by my feeble brain...
  44. 2 points
    First, it's Keyes, confusing I know, and it's worse than that, since it's pronounced K-eyes. This is just in case anyone actually cares. . This is the guy to talk to about Fisher anvils https://www.facebook.com/FisherAnvils. He is the curator of the Fisher-Norris museum. As I understand it, the faces of Fisher anvils were poured in place, there may or may not have been some pins to hold everything in place. By pouring the cast iron directly on the tool steel face they got a solid weld of the face to the body. The bodies were made in two pieces with a joint at the waist. I'm not sure how that was done, but it contributes to the lack of ring that Fishers are known for. When they HT the anvils they used a multi-thousand gallon waterfall tank to quench them, which must have been something to see. The only successful repairs to anvil faces that I have seen were done by building up a hardface with welding rod, pass after pass after pass and lots of clean up. The problem with trying to weld a plate onto a body is that it is nearly impossible to get penetration in to the center of the plate. This means that the plate vibrates, which kills your rebound, and it breaks welds over time. You could, I suppose, weld thin strips into a mass, but it's not much different than hard facing the whole thing. I would not use D2 or A2, look at the difference in welding and transformation temps compared to wrought or cast. A thin (1/4) 1084 plate would be my pick. The welding and and HT would be tough, among other things, how are you going to manipulate 100lbs of 2000+ degree iron, and how are you going to quench it? It took the Fisher guys nearly 10 years to figure out how to cast weld a face, and aside from Trenton, you don't see anyone else doing it. If you really want a project, figure out how to cast steel and make your own from scratch. I don't think it's really that much more work. Geoff "K-eyes" not "K-eeze"
  45. 2 points
    Thanks. Sheath is ready. That was a good piece of leather. Lauri
  46. 2 points
    1084 falcata inspired fighter
  47. 2 points
    Thanks Gentlemen. Several more. The dark ones are welded, fibrous iron...
  48. 2 points
    Hi everyone! Greetings from the forge.52100+copper+420.Sizes 205*30*5(mm) I`m recieving orders for such types of blades(and other).
  49. 2 points
    Uchidashi (hammer reveal) is the Japanese method of pushing sheet metal into a form while it’s held in pitch. Other than an initial slight push from the back at the very beginning, all the form volume is produced from the front. This allows the resulting form to retain its original sheet thickness, a great benefit in subsequent development of details. Toshimasa-Sensei had shown me this technique in 1997 by forming a quick gourd shape. Somehow I had not used it much in the intervening years, although I thought about it a lot. It was perfect for this project and I thoroughly enjoyed the magic of seeing the Eft take form. I began with sheet copper, 21G = .724mm = .028”. After sawing an ovoid blank, the initial punching with wood was done into a sand bag. This is just to get a little jump on the volume and does not thin the metal. I made a Mylar sheet template to be able to pencil in the design repeatedly. With the design penciled, a large blunt, rough steel punch is used to begin to raise the volume by punching from the side and slightly down. The pitch is warmed just enough for the metal to be able to move. As volume is created, the punching progresses with the punch angle dropped so that the sideways force pushes the metal within the design upward. As volume is established thought must be given as to how to define details such as the legs/feet, while retaining thickness. Specialized punches are brought into use as needed. Essentially all menuki (with a few exceptions) would have been made using uchidashi. Menuki most often have vertical walls. In this case I wanted to roll the sides under to get a lifelike quality so I ended up stretching the metal underneath to its max. You can see some spots where the punches went through. This was fine as it was in the waste area which is sawn away anyway. I'll post more photos as the finishing progresses. I make no claims as to my methods being “authentic Japanese”. It works for me…
  50. 2 points
    Almost done with the Eft except for a little pedicure and patina. Lots to do on the wood yet...