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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  


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Showing most liked content since 12/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Hi All Here is a new one, 3 bar blade cutting edge O1, 1095, 15N20 Total length 25.5 cm blade 13.5 cm, deer antler handle with bronze fittings (manufactured from out of circulation coins)
  2. 7 points
    Well here it is at last.... the voyage for this build has come to an end. Thank you all very much for your support, feedback and assistance esp Alan who has helped me so very much from the day I joined and was struggling to harden a knife blade properly. So with out further ado here is the Katutlass!
  3. 6 points
    Here's a cool little hack I just discovered while cutting the grip material for this piece. If you want to cut something round (like buffalo horn) and don't want it to spin when the blade hits it, clamp it in some aluminum angle iron. The saw cuts right through the aluminum, but it holds it in place securely (with the C clamp) while the cut happens. More progress shots soon. Cheers. Dave
  4. 6 points
    Hello everyone! how are you! I hope that full of expectations for this new year that is coming, the best of wishes and that is better than the year that happened !. I wanted to show you what would almost be a wip, of a sword inspired by a ceremonial sword that has on its scabbard seven kings who used it over time. The project started with a sword type X gaddhjalt style built in steel 5160 and with a traditional scabbard on which we planned the placement of the seven kings engraved and embossed in copper plate. then we put two bronze splints and sunchos and all pointed nails with bronze nails. It is the first of its kind that we did so I hope that the next one comes out better, greetings and good new year for all.
  5. 5 points
    It feels like forever since I finished a knife. Like the title says, I more or less made this knife twice. The first time around, I drilled through both bolsters and the tang. I had chamfered the holes on bolsters so I could upset the pins into them and then grind it flush and nothing would show. Well, one side turned out great, the other side no so much. It seems that I very slightly wallowed out one of the holes. Epoxy got around the pin, and when I ground it flush, there was a dark ring that you could see. Mind you, the knife was almost done. I was finishing up the handle. I was horrified. And at one point, I managed to nick the ricasso with a 50 grit belt AFTER the blade was finished. I would have to do so much extra work to fix it. So I started over the next day. Blade is 4" (10.16 cm) and a total length of 9" (22.86 cm). The bolsters are dovetailed to the handle scales(which you can't see in the pictures), and are hammered copper. Handle is Buckeye burl as is the bead on the lanyard. The sheath has the Puyallup Tribal Salmon tooled into it, which the customer requested. Anyhow, here it is. Comments always welcome.
  6. 4 points
    I had about two and a half weeks of my month of winter break to make knives and I think I set a personal record. Someone got a forge set up at my school, but the grinders are pretty lacking and I won't have time for filing, so these 12 will probably be my last ones until May. Also, I discovered that taking photos of big sets of knives is fun, so there are a lot of pictures. Sorted by size By the order I made them in I sharpen the knives in the shared kitchen every month or so, but they're pretty lacking, so I made myself a kitchen set. Woods are laurel from Costa Rica and cherry from a dead tree someone had me cut down a few years ago in the middle. The knife second from the right isn't from this month, but these are all of the "gaucho" knives I made based on the ones I saw in Chile. Finally, sheaths which I spent the last few days making. Sheaths on the kitchen knives are mostly for transport, I also like this style a lot. Thanks for looking!
  7. 4 points
    That aint worth a velvet painting of a dolphin and a whale gettin it on. It's just about the most rediculouse thing I've seen to date.
  8. 4 points
    This started out as a gift for my son but he wanted something more LOTR inspired which is cool. It is 304/1084 San mai with wrought iron fittings and a maple handle that I stiched a leather wrap around it and with an ode to Peter Johnsson I wrapped string around it wet to give it that look that is both functional and pretty damn cool looking. Overall is about 12-14" and the blade is some where around 8-9 " I promised the lady who wanted it for her husband a sheath so I made this little guy cheap and easy.
  9. 4 points
    That lockback was getting me down, so I took a little break to make these In the past year I’ve become fascinated with South American knives since traveling there last winter/spring and these are my latest. I’ve previously made knives based off of the ones I saw out on ranches, used for everything from slaughtering livestock to carpentry. These are more like the ones I saw people wearing at the fiesta del arreo in Bahía Murta. They are based on these originals (http://www.vikingsword.com/ethsword/facon/criollo.html), and in the typography where I found the image, the style is called “cuchillo de campo” (country/ranch knife). I would definitely recommend the article if you are interested in historic knives or gauchos. The pinched bolsters were a real challenge. They are held by a single pin, so they have to be located using the top edge of the handle scales. I’m very happy with how they turned out. The dark handle is bookmatched figured walnut (with an unfortunate glitch in the top cutler’s rivet), and the lighter one is a scrap of laurel I got from a coffee farmer in Costa Rica. It’s a bit more subtle than the guanacaste I got from the same person, but I like the look. The finish is a hand sanded 600 grit buffed with emery so it sheds water. Comments/questions are always welcome Thanks for looking!
  10. 4 points
    Happy Festivus, folks. As a seasoned procrastinator, I finally finished this chefs knife for my nephew around 2 o'clock this morning. Here in Norway, we open the presents today, at Christmas eve, so I'm cutting it close. Spring steel blade, differentially heat treated with clay. The hamon is there but not really visible in the pics because my attempts at etching were... unsatisfactory to say the least, so I sanded away the etch for a more plain, satin finish. Beech burl handle and spring steel blade. 12" blade, 6" handle.
  11. 3 points
    Hi guys, I forged this blade a while ago wanting to try something different and have been mulling over whether I liked it or not or if it works until I finaly decided to complete it. It has 3 grips with the reverse grip feeling decevingly comfortable in the hand. Anyhow thought I would post it and see what you think...like it or lump it i would be curious to know as I am still undecided. Ps. Knife is bigger than it looks as I have xlarge hands haha
  12. 3 points
    Someone once told me: There's a saddle for every ass and an ass for every saddle. Whether or not I would want that particular style, I know that there are folks who do want that, and would love that knife. I will tell you what I do really like about it, and that is the creativity in design. It's very refreshing to see someone pushing the envelope every now and again. Great job, brother.
  13. 3 points
    I forged some rugged knives for camp kitchen tasks etc Leaf spring and micarta I made a sheath for the chopper as it would also be handy in the field. This was good practice for forging thin blades from rough cut spring. Boner pic is with stock from spring the same size it was forged from.
  14. 3 points
    Call it the sword of stunning...
  15. 3 points
    The motivation behind Screwcifer is a 2HP motor spinning a large triple reduction gear reducer. It's built to twist up to 3" square and still have a reasonable safety margin. So far I haven't worried about cooling the ends, though I may with this billet since I may take the ends to 2" square to save a little on waste and keep me from having to build another set of dies right now. It depends a bit on what bits of steel I find around the shop tomorrow that I can hack a tailstock die together from. Here's a video of the second twist I did with it. First was 1" square, this was 2".
  16. 3 points
    Ground these out from some 1075 for my brother’s groomsmen.
  17. 3 points
    One of my goals for the next year is to try to draw new customers into the custom knife world, people who have never considered buying a custom knife in the past. To do this I decided that it would be best to build multiple copies of a knife that most of the general public would recognize and want to own & display. Since most people aren't knowledgeable about actual historic knives, I went to Hollywood for my inspiration. I believe that there are few Americans who have not seen either Alan Ladd, Richard Widmark or John Wayne handle "The Iron Mistress" in the movies so that's what I will be making. To keep the price as affordable as possible I'll be selling these copies without engraving or sheath. I'm going to offer this first batch for $750 each and see how I come out on it. At that price I'll just be breaking even but hopefully will bring some new customers into the world of the hand forged knife. Each will include nickel silver escutcheons & fittings, a 416 guard, and a brass spine in order to match the original. We'll see if I can continue to do this at this price. I got a start on this project today. I'm going to initially make three; one with walnut, one with blackwood and one with rosewood handles. Each will have a blade of W1. I'll try to keep you updated as I progress with this project.
  18. 3 points
    Castings cleaned up and fitted to tang. Carving of guards next. Also fabricating middle bead. Attached also is a photo of the actual blade made at 2013 AF. You can see how long the road ahead is . . . Also attached was the original plan made by Jake Powning and Peter Johnsson so you can compare. Dave
  19. 3 points
    That day in my shop was the last time I saw the old man. A little over a year ago I got a call from a friend who owns the hardware store/UPS terminal in town. He said a semi truck had pulled up and the driver had come in asking about getting an important package delivered to me. Not totally unheard of because driving a rig up here in the mountains, if you don't know the road is a bad idea. The driver had insisted on waiting for me so he could hand deliver his package. Somehow I knew who it was from. Not that many people could have found me and had a package delivered so oddly. My guess was confirmed when I saw the package. Where a return address would customarily be were the letters "T. O. M." "I guess you knew him?" The driver asked. " knew? I guess that means......" " umhmm. " the driver nodded. "Last week. He was my neighbor. He left that package with me. He was......well.. how well did you know him?" "Well enough not to be surprised at "this" or just about anything that could happen connected to him." "That tells it all then. Well, good luck with whatever.....he gave me some other things to do. The..kind..of person he was, you do them." With that he climbed in his truck and left. I had to go into the hardware store, if for no other reason than to assure my friend all was on the "up and up" with this slightly odd event. It seemed understandable that I would want to open the package in private. That key the old man had given me was on my key ring where I had immediately put it. I had a feeling it was going to be a part of whatever lay ahead.
  20. 3 points
    There he was in a short sleeved sportshirt and khakis looking like a retired gentleman should. After greetings and small talk he asked for a favor. "I've got a small project to do and I need to borrow your forge. It would probably be best if you went about what you were doing." Anyone else and I would have thrown them out on their ear but, being as it was him, I just nodded. In a flash a hammer, of a type I had never seen before, was in his hand. It must have been a 4 pounder but he twirled it in one hand like it was a 1/2 " wooden dowel as he walked toward the forge. Something I couldn't quite see was in his other hand. I did as he suggested and went about finishing the knife on my bench as he hammered away. Time seemed to pause but, in what seemed like short order he announce " There, that's got it." When I turned from my bench there he stood one hand empty and the other dropping something in his pocket. In all of my life I'd never seen anyone make a hammer appear and disappear nor someone take something hot off an anvil and drop in their pocket. He thanked me, explaining "I just needed to get something to the right shape." He said he had some where to be and he smiled and held out his hand to present me with a small, old-fashioned key. "You never know when a key will come in handy".
  21. 3 points
    Hi All I have been playing with the bolster a bit, still not quite sure about it but time will tell. Blade 120 layer O1, 1095 and 1520 Total length 20 cm, blade 9.5 cm Deer antler with brass fittings
  22. 3 points
    A few things to think about: When the heat treater's guide specifies a soak time it is per inch of thickness. How thick is your blade? I agree you do need to get the Cr and V back into solution if the barstock comes spheroidized. If it's just hot rolled it should not be a problem. Finally, the 0.8% C is not going to give you the extra carbides that a higher carbon steel will, which further reduces the need for soaking, especially if you are forging rather than doing stock removal.. Don't forget heating and beating steel does things to the structure too. Every heat you do should be considered part of the heat treatment process. This is one of the two things that sets a forged blade apart from a stock removal blade. The other being the hammered-on bit.
  23. 3 points
    Got a nuther'n ready fer heat treat yesterday. I'm going to do a how to on decalescense, normalization, and differential hardening for 1075 using this blade. I'm not sure I do it "correctly" by standards of some, but it produces good results. I find myself answering questions about that part of it quite often. It would be nice to have a post to quickly refer to. So, here's the new addition:
  24. 3 points
    I just finished making my first knife by stock removal. Well, my first three knives actually. They were Christmas presents so I was kind of rushed. It has been one of the coolest/funnest projects I've ever done. Definitely will be making more!
  25. 3 points
  26. 3 points
    Yesterday was my last casting day for this year. And next year I'll probably have my hands full with other duties to do any casting (well, you never know, but not counting on it at the moment). Anyway, two big supersized bronze dirks, reproductions of the giant Ommerschans dirks (third one cast a week ago): These are about 2800 gram each when finished, for which I had to melt 4kg of bronze at the time. That's two hours of bellowing each to melt 4kg of bronze in 4 charges filling up the crucible. Plus 1,5 hours making a new mould in between (including compacting the sand with a 6 lbs hammer), crushing up 10kg of charcoal, and other jobs. I haven't done this much physical work in a while, but it felt good My furnace is working very predictable and efficient, which I'm very pleased with. It consumes about 4kg of charcoal to melt the 4kg of bronze, which is pretty good efficiency. And I feel with a bit more fine tuning of the bellowing I could lower that further. And that's for 4 charges to fill the crucible, including preheat. With the last casting, it started raining just as soon as I was getting ready to cast. As I cast out in the open, that's no good. I had covered the mould so that remained dry, and was anxiously watching rain radar, where a dry moment kept shifting forwards in time, to be followed by a heavy rain getting closer and closer. So I called my girlfriend out, to keep a cover up so I could cast shielded from the rain. I didn't like that, moisture and liquid bronze is a dangerous mix! But I had a full crucible with liquid bronze sitting in the furnace that had to go somewhere, and a mould that was still dry at least. Next time I will wait for a dry day, no matter how rare those are here or build a temporary roof, good enough to ensure everything stays dry within the casting area.
  27. 3 points
    Hi and merry christmas to all. Fulltang puukko. 80crv2 steel. Xcut curly birch and steel pins. Blade is 5mm thick and about 90mm long. Thanks for watching
  28. 3 points
    More progress made today. The blade now has a general profile with the start of hammered in bevels. I still have a way to go yet, but this is starting to look like something. I'm getting excited now.
  29. 2 points
    Dear firetenders I have been very slow in posting in recent months and I am sorry to have missed your company and many good discussions. I thought I´d make up for that by posting a WIP of a scabbard I am currently working on. It is being made for a large dagger or short sword that is part of a set that will go on an exhibit (but more on that later). All of the swords and daggers of this set are being made to be time-less or free from any direct associations with existing cultures or past times. All of them will be have their form and proportions defined by geometry and each will be dedicated to a figure of legend or mythology. This blade has a dark theme, being made with one of the Furies, Megaera, in mind. She was the Furie of Envy and Jealousy. The scabbard for the blade is constructed on a hard core that is made from thin sheets of high quality plywood (model air plane plywood). I have found this to be great to work with, as it allows thin walls that does not build up the bulk of the scabbard unnecessarily. You can get this material in various thicknesses. I favour 0.4 mm, 0.6mm and 0.8 mm sheets. The innermost layer is covered with textile (in this case thin felt) to protect the surface of the blade. The felt is glued to the wood before the three layers of each side is guled together. Below the felt is tested for fit: Preparing for the gluing of the layers: The blade acts as a former with the three layers of thin plywood clamped on as the glue cures. Since the glue is simple carpenters glue it does not take very long for the core halves to get set. The three layers keeping the form by locking each other in place. Next step is the glue narrow margins on each side of the cores. These thin slivers of veneer build up a slight thickness along the edge, making sure that the blade is not too tightly held in place in the scabbard. The narrow slivers will be filed to shape afterwards so that they allow for a good and flat fit to each other. The final width of the glue line is no more than 3-4 mm on each side. This is more than enough if the fit is good. The core will also be further strengthened by the covering layers of the scabbard. The tip end of the core halves are pierced for a peg that will help seeing them aligned during the gluing operation. Otherwise they can easily glide and get set slightly out of true. This is frustrating if the fit is such that there is no room for lay between the core and the blade. You do not want carpenters glue smearing on the blade or making blotches on the felt liner (since this may cause scratches or rust later in the marriage of the scabbard and its sword. (The awl in the picture was made for me by our Petr Florianek. It is one of my favourite tools) Before final gluing the fit is texted between blade and scabbard. You want a good and tight fit that allows the blade to stay inside even when the scabbard is turned upside down, but not so much that you have to pull hard to bring the blade out. The felt lining does help a bit with this, as it cushions the blade a bit. Since the blade is pattern welded and will get a deep, topographical etch I want the lining to protect the surface of the blade. After the two halves have been glued together you form them into shape with a cabinet makers rasp. The layers of the thin plywood is a great help as yo clearly can follow the removal of material, making sure it is symmetrical and even on all sides. The cross section of the core must be made with allowance for additional layers that will be added. The scabbard is typically thinner than the front end of the hilt and must be made to meet the hilt design in a way that makes sense. This core will have metal mounts that builds thickness and the guard of the hilt must be made thin. The core is now shaped to meet the final design. Obviously it helps to have a plan laid out before work begins. The plan is such that it allows for some adjustment and creative changes through out the making of the piece, but some important proportions and dimensions are made clear from the very beginning. The plan for the project:
  30. 2 points
    C Craft, yes this part of the machine developed over time as I usually make long blades and holding an accurate angle gets difficult. See the end of this page for more details! Once again I am so sad that there are no steel-casting companies around anymore - Filing is the only alternative... The wooden core of the grip with the flutes (which I later found out were not deep enough) But finally... blade, hilt and grip are finished! Just the pommel needs more work (hollowing out of the inside because of too much weight)
  31. 2 points
    Hi All: Many of you may remember Arctic Fire 2013, where a group of us made a blade from smelt to finish in just a few days. If you don't know what I'm talking about, here is the video: So, you may have wondered, if you watched the event, what ever happened to the backup blade? Well, I've had it for these last four years, and I'm finally getting around to finishing it. While I cannot promise a blade of the quality that was produced at the event (for the simple and self-obvious reason that I'm not the equal of Jake or Petr when it comes to carving, or Jul when it comes to jewelers work, or hell . . . the list goes on of all the guys I'm not equal to!), I'll do my best to do justice to this piece. I have a few bits I've saved from the 2013 event, such as a nearly complete wax carving by Jake of the lower guard that he abandoned for a reason I forget, as well as a rivet block that has a porosity hole in it that I plan to use by filling the hole with a garnet set in silver. I like the idea of incorporating a few bits of the original build in this "homage" piece. Also, of course, while I did most of the forging on this blade, it was 90% ground by Michael Pikula, and Shane Harvey helped with some of the pattern weld. So, this will still be--in a sense--a collaboration. Also, if you remember from the video, the upper guard was lost due to my kiln being too short for a complete burn out, so Petr had to carve an upper guard out of antler instead. In this build, I plan to complete the original upper guard design. Here are a few photos of the blade after polishing and etching. You'll note the difference the hairpin core has on the overall aesthetic. The core has the same number of layers that Arthur's war band had in it (it was going to be one of our clues). The edge material is 1200 layers or so. Also a shot of the bits and sketches I have left over from the 2013 event. I'll post WIP photos as the build progresses. Cheers, Dave
  32. 2 points
    I finished this one recently for a friend. 5" long blade approx 3/16 thick, san-mai with 80CRV2 core, African blackwood handle, stainless guard and pin. Thanks for looking, Clint
  33. 2 points
    Well, that ones done!!! Just gotta make a sheath and sell it. $400 seem too steep?
  34. 2 points
    Thanks mayne! I tried a hot venigar etch on the other just now. It worked very well to my suprise. After about three 2 minute soaks I could see the habuchi and utsuri clearly. I may still do an etch in ferric to bring it out further.
  35. 2 points
    Here is a hunting axe i made for my bowhunting treks. Forged from a big old hex crowbar. Slotted and drifted eye and hardened hammer poll. I killed an ironwood tree about 18mnths ago and left it dry standing as it was. I cut the handle from this tree...awsome very hard wood which i will use for some butcher knife handles too. Will post some finished pics soon.
  36. 2 points
    Not to be persnickety a knife is not a knife without a proper heat treat. It is a knife shaped object.
  37. 2 points
    That's what I'm going to start calling my belt slips! No longer shall I be the clumsy unskilled maker. That ding is where it deflected the lightning of an arch mage!!
  38. 2 points
    I would say make it as artsy as you want, as long as it is pointy/sharp and heat treated, and sturdy enough to use.
  39. 2 points
    And here a short Scythian sword,akinakes. I made it based on a find from Rozbórz in Podkarpacie,Poland dated to 5 B.C Dimensions: 54.2 cm, blade length 40.4 cm, handle length 14.4 cm, the width of the blade at the base 5.7 cm, the width of the handle shaft 2.7 cm, the head 2.3 X 6.7 cm, handguard spread 7.4 cm, weight 743 gram. Scabbard, oak boards covered with thin goatskin and brass sheet.
  40. 2 points
    Just because you can do something potentially very dangerous without self harm, doesn't mean you control it and that it won't take you out or severely maim you if you keep doing it. It's just playing Russian roulette, but with confidence. People frequently say: "I always do it like this, and it's never gone wrong". To which I have to add "yet". If you do something very dangerous and stupid, you're just ticking off your lifespan. Particularly when you play with hot metal and other related dangerous stuff, if you want to enjoy it and life a good while, you need to stay away from any foolery, and treat the powers you work with with the utmost respect, and use whatever safety precautions that are out there to allow you to enjoy it for a long time.
  41. 2 points
    Can I do a set of kamas? I think I can make some really coool magical ninja ones .... The blades would be made from the finest quality steel smelted in the far away land of Ahmerika. Quenched in the oily blood of it's honorable foe: kanola.
  42. 2 points
    For my third attempt at forge welding and my first patternwelded knife I think this turned out very well. 48 layers of 1084/15n20 with cocobolo and curly maple and a bit of brass. All thoughts are welcome and criticisms too. Thanks, Mike
  43. 2 points
    Hi. My latest job Santoku - chef's knife with initials inlayed with silver (I still need to practice...) 4 bars. Edge: 80CrV2, core: wrought iron, spine: laminated 80CrV2 x soft steel + 80CrV2 on spine edge. Hnadle: black (bog) oak, black locust burl (robinia pseudoacacia), Hungarian plum + silver rivet. Blade ground without belt grinder. Just stones with help of angle grinder, then sand paper.
  44. 2 points
    What JJ said. A lighter hammer is best for starting out. A wooden handle is better than fiberglass. If you get, say, an 800 gram German or Swedish crosspein from blacksmith's depot, it will arrive with the face and peen unfinished because they are meant for smiths who have a preference for the way to dress their own hammer face. Some like more crown, some like less. I like mine to look sort of like a pocketwatch crystal. Almost flat in the center, with a gentle crown on the edges. A square-faced hammer can be used to do the work of a crosspeen or a straight peen if you just tilt the face to one side. I have an 800 gram French pattern I do the final work on large blades with. I dressed it so the face is slightly more curved across the narrow direction so it acts like a wide-radius fuller if used aggressively, but a flat if used gently. Peens on factory hammers are always too sharp. You want it to be flat in the middle, at least 1/4 to 3/8" of flat, then rounded on the edges with a slight side-to-side rocker profile. I have a long post about my hammers in the "forging a hawk my way" pinned thread up in the Hot Work subforum. George's hammer faces above look excellent, by the way. I also have two dogheads, one a custom by Owen Bush and one an antique saw doctor's hammer. They take some getting used to, and they are not for general forging, but they do bevel forging and tapering like nobody's business.
  45. 2 points
    a New Years thought for the forge in. Next year May 18th- 20th is my biannual forge in, 50 to 70 people from the craft , from many countries gathering to share knowledge and talk shop and drink beer on the weekend of the 18th 19th 20 May.The forge in has a cost of £150 which I use to cover some of the expenses of the gathering (Its a non profit event, I aim to break even but normally make a loss) Anyhow I am aware that for some people especially those struggling to make a living from the craft the cost of the event and getting to it, can make it too expensive to attend. I have gotten a great deal from gatherings like this, from a technical POV as well as the camaraderie of my fellow craftspeople. I have found it invaluable knowing that I am not alone in my work and I have made some great friends. So I guess this is a small way for me to try and give something back. I would like to offer up 4 spaces at the forge in for free, and I am willing to cover travel expenses and a sum for food and drink at the event, so attending should cost these 4 people nothing . I am really aiming this at people who have started in the craft, so students or Makers rather than absolute beginners. So if you would like to come to a Major Bladesmithing gathering. but can't afford it or know someone who fits the bill, email me some details about yourself/them and your/their work at owen@owenbush.co.uk This will only be open to people living in the UK (unless there are no takers in which case I may expand it) I am not interested in knowing anyones financial situation (asking is enough) and will keep any correspondences and names private. Wishing a happy new year to you all, may your fires burn bright in 2018. Hope to see a few of you in May.
  46. 2 points
    I wouldn't worry about the looks it doesn't take the whole face to forge a blade. Don't be one of the..."If it ain't broke...fix it 'till it is" clan
  47. 2 points
    So, how long have you been in Congress ?
  48. 2 points
    He's a serious bicyclist and he built a cedar canoe a couple years ago, so daughter suggested using bike chain in blade and cedar handle. Stabilized the wood with cactus juice and laminated chain to a core of Cru Forge V. Fun little project.
  49. 2 points
    just finishing this up for my sister's Christmas - a wee (6 inch-ish) kitchen knife of the same design that I have used for the past 5 years. differentially hardened CS70, recessed bubinga scales with copper, aluminium and acrylic inlays and copper pins..
  50. 2 points
    No snakes allowed around here. My wife has a reptile dysfunction - seeing one causes premature evacuation.