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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/26/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Well howdy everyone! It seems I've fallen a little behind with my shop hours. Having been occupied with moving from one state and back, a job search, and balancing work with play (not much time for play anymore), I've neglected to complete or even start a blade. Anyways, I ended up being quite productive on my days off and managed to dust off ye ol'e grinding wheel (literally!). I was sure to throw sparks out the garage door for all the world to see, and ended up having a crowd of interested neighbors and their not so amused wives from across the street. Sure cuts nicely and a pleasure to cook with.
  2. 4 points
    The blade is finished. The scabbard is under construction, but I have set it aside for a while to recover from frustration due to a bad casting of the chape. . . right now I hate it, so it needs to rest a bit. Cheers! Dave
  3. 3 points
    it may not look like it, but I spent all day on this. it's really starting to take shape.
  4. 3 points
    All goes together! Needs some small refinements to fit, then on to finishing! Also, the blades are still at 62.5, so they get one more cycle.
  5. 3 points
    Told you an angle grinder would help! Looks great. You might want to bring the bevels up to at least half the width of the blade. That's called a saber grind, or Scandi grind if you don't have a secondary bevel when sharpening. Less than a third of the width of the blade is called a noob grind. The taller your bevels the better it will cut. Simple geometry.
  6. 3 points
    4 inch blade in 1080, copper, bone and ironwood. This has been hanging around half done for a while. Done now. Geoff
  7. 3 points
    UPDATE: Problem solved. the 10W oil did the trick! It now runs even better than before.
  8. 3 points
  9. 2 points
    And hopefully generate interested buyers!
  10. 2 points
    Next step would be installing the flux capacitor ?
  11. 2 points
    Casey...Yakut (an offensive Russianism,btw,so from here on out Saha,as that's what these people are called),have practiced ironworking for a Very long time.Possibly introducing it to the many tribes inhabiting Sibiria. Thanks to the internet,and the Russians following in the footsteps of Western knife collectors and bladesmiths,Saha knives became a fashionable subject,hype you may say. MOST of what you find on the internet is out and out horse$hit,pardon my French.So,IF you're seeking after any degree of authenticity,you must be very,Very selective. First,i'd recommend that book just published by the Smithsonian,where they show the collections of Valdemar Johelson(i've no time to dig for links right now,but can later if you'll have tough time finding it,it'll have connections with Jesup North Pacific Expedition). There you'll find the many different types of Saha knives.They each have a name,and are built for very different jobs.But very roughly one must at least learn to distinguish between the narrow-,and the wide-fullered ones. (The fuller,btw,was never left nasty.That is one of the silly emotionally-based takes of the uninformed on the style.It was scrupulously finished(as was the entire knife-Extremely well thought-out+executed). Secondly,here's the one maker who does not take any silly liberties with the original shapes et c. Watch as many videos by him as you can.He does speak some English,and may answer some of the questions,his name is Aleksey. And very briefly:Yes,the back is totally convex,and the front-flat(for sharpening).The convex back gets corrected at sharpening,but minimally. All that is important.Afterall,you're copying a cultural artefact(and an iconic one at that;imagine if some Saha dude was trying to paint a Coca-Cola bottle,and ad-libbing at it in a funny way:). Best of luck.
  12. 2 points
    Since I am no expert on Japanese blades I feel that I mix all the styles possible and impossible I hope there is no Nihonto Police around Anyway, there is finally some progress. I filed down the habaki to more elegant size. I also tried to cast my own shibuichi (copper + silver alloy) for the tsuba. My original idea was to be smarter than Japanese masters and cast a ready plate rather than the ingot. But with no success So I finally used traditional water casting. This is the result: I had to cut off an edge because of the crack. I also plan to make some decorative inlays on the tsuba with pure silver. The handle is made of walnut wood. I haven't decided yet if I'll cover it with ray skin.
  13. 2 points
    Biggest vikings axe in progress(330mm blade) its structured course i took 19 centure midcarbon tool steel.
  14. 2 points
    Hi all ! It's my first post on this forum so I wanted to say hello and show you my pattern welded seax which I finished few days ago. Total length 47cm, blade 32cm Width 3,2 cm Maciej Leszczyński - Kuźnia Wilkowo
  15. 2 points
    I had a great Time at fire and brimstone, It made me realise how much getting out there with other smiths means to me. It is affirming to me all these different people approaching similar things in different ways with different motivations. Great to just hang with it all. I must get out more, at home and abroad....I look forward to coming back to the land of the complicated to order coffee soon! I am grateful for the people this site has allowed me to meet on the screen and in person. Looking forward to my forge in now!
  16. 2 points
    Brian, and so thought I - until I dared to try Actually this sheath is my second one. The first I made 2 years ago was just c**p. And now I'm practising and practising, and it comes out better and better. I'm also exercising some wood curvings and ... the devil is not as black as he is painted. Gnothi seauton as ancient Greeks used to say
  17. 2 points
    Gentlemen, we have overlooked the obvious answer. They start out with a four-bladed one and forge one of the blades into a mounting shape to attach it to the staff. Simple. My work is done .
  18. 2 points
    This is a good point. Maybe i will buy a harbor freight 7 inch grinder with the warrantee and just keep bringing them back.
  19. 2 points
    Good day you all, My name is José Antonio Herreros. I am a knife and pocket knives artisan from Spain. It has been more than 44 years when I started making my own knives (when I was 13 years old) and today I can proudly name myself as an "amateur" (everyday you learn something new) artisan. I have been working with the most famous and finest cutlery brands from Spain, thanks to that, I have been awarded with the most important titles inside the Spanish handmade cutlery. Recently, I decided to make my own webpage https://www.artesaniaherreros.es/en/ since the Spanish handmade cutlery is dissapearing. Sadly, I have to start from cero since I have no photos (or the ones I have are really old) of my oldest creations, but, I try to keep the webpage updated with more products (with quality photos), videos, etc. so one day I could proudly look at it as my own catalogue. I have attached you a few photos of my latest products, they are just a little glimpse of my daily work, but I hope you like it. Thanks a lot to everyone who told me on facebook about this marvelous forum, and thanks everyone for letting me part of this awesome community! Greetings from Spain - José Antonio Herreros, Knives and folding knives artisan from Spain.
  20. 2 points
    Bringing back an oldish thread, but I have had the opportunity to do some more work on this knife. It's already for heat treat, gonna clay it for the differential hardness. It's size is 7.5" blade by 1.375" width and about 1/8" thickness with a distal taper. Let me know what you think please!
  21. 2 points
    Put in some time this morning lapping tangs, grinding/krinking the blades so they mesh nicely, and lightening the springs. I want to be able to put this together right out of heat treat to check the action. I may cut some swedges after heat treat to give more clearance. The small spacer above the sheepsfoot is called a catch-bit and is a very clever thing used in some slip joint designs. It's held in by the pivot pin, and kept from rotating by the spring. I'm really excited to get the springs hardened so I can see how it works. All the parts as they are now. I won't really be able to do much on this for a few months, other than to harden everything
  22. 2 points
    More progress from last night! Today is my last day to work for a while, so these need to be ready for heat treat pretty quick. Primary blade lapped flat. Next I lapped the secondary so that it's tang and the liner equal the thickness of the primary blade. I've shown this jig before, basically you zero the indicator with a blade open, then close it and remove material until you zero it. Like so. Things are starting to come together! I still need to taper the blades a bit so they congress a bit better with no rubbing and finalize the bend on the primary. This is that nail-nick trick I mentioned earlier. The results aren't as quite as crisp they would be with a dovetail cutter or a chisel/die, but they are pretty consistent once you get the hang of it. All that's left before heat treat is to polish the tangs and some other stuff up to 400 grit and taper the blades a bit so there's more room inside the blade well.
  23. 2 points
    The design is based off of the tinker with a few changes: longer handle and main blade, sheepsfoot instead of the small spear, and no key ring. I've had a little experience with krinking when I made my stockman, I ground the blades off center and applied a bit of a bend to one of them. In this case I'm going to take the trick of using a half liner with a 1/16" blade sharing a spring with a 3/32" blade to get some extra clearance. I'll try to get some good pictures showing the strange workings of floating springs as well. Yeah, especially when I have a long time I can't work on knives, I get all sorts of big ideas (I'll finish that lock-back some day, I swear!). Definitely had to make sure my beard was trimmed short for this project . All the parts layed-out on my fancy steel (managed to get my school to reimburse me for it too!). Note that all the parts which require extensive grinding are buddied up. This makes them easier to hold on to and grind. Here's where things get tricky: the spring holding the blades is going to be 0.092", and the other spring is going to be 0.082", to slim down the knife and make the openers less blocky. Finally, the secondary blade gets two layers of liner, so it needs to be 0.033" thinner than the main blade. This means things need to be ground to rough thicknesses which will be lapped down to 0.092", 0.082", and 0.059". Yikes. A surface grinder would be perfect, but I got it to within 0.001" using a disk sander and calipers. Everything's rough ground except the small features, ready for the tangs to be shaped.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
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