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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    I wanted to make a very traditional folder, something as traditional as quaffing mead, boar hunting, getting into a long boat and raiding the coastlines of Europe. So I designed and made a pocket seax. This is the second one, the first had the thicker, more rounded handle of a fixed blade seax, so I decided to trim the handle down while retaining a bit of a rise towards the end. This one is 4" long from bolster to the end of the lanyard loop. I am thinking of doing a smaller, 3 1/2" version as well. SAE1070 blade and spring, Brass bolsters and liners, pink ivory scales. I did the carving on the bolsters. Questions and comments welcome!
  2. 8 points
    Hello, I want to show you my latest project. This Falchion is inspired by 14th century originals. Specifications: - length 80,5 cm - blade length 64 cm - blade width at crossguard 3,9 cm - max blade width 5,35 cm - weight 1051 g - CoB 9 cm - nz3 steel -copper inlays on the pommel - wood and leather scabbard - brass handmade buckle and strap ending
  3. 8 points
  4. 8 points
    Hello: Here is the first sword I finished in 2020...The blade is 1070..the Hamon.. well, I dunno what to call it... Togari Gunome maybe?? finished with temple lion motif fittings from my art foundry guys in Taiwan..They do a great job..yes they do!! Much better than an old ham handed reprobate like I could do..... Black samegawa under that black and gold Chevron Tsuka-ito that I adore.. This is another proto for book IV which is coming along splendidly even if I do say so myself.. The siya is black lacquer that I dripped/ "flicked" Testors model airplane paint (metallic gold) on and then sealed with 6 coats of hard, clear lac.. I got the idea from a siya that one of my friends down here showed me a while back...turned out non too shabby but there is still room to improve on that...I do know I need to find a better price on that stuff..it is $$$...Hope the photos work out... Note: This Hamon didn't turn out like I wanted.. I was going for more of a crashing/breaking ocean wave/surf sort of thing but that isn't what happened.. Like I have said before...Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted to.. Happy 2020... JPH
  5. 7 points
    Had a fellow request a knife made with lines of a Grohmann, in damascus. This is what I came up with. Blade is 5" long forged from 180 layers of 1084 and 15N20. Handle is cocobollo with a slight taper to the tang to balance it better. Thanks for looking, Clint
  6. 7 points
    Got my annual post Christmas forge day today, went in with no plan, other than to patternweld something! I had a variety of bits and bobs of interesting material knocking about, so just went at it, with no real plan. ( well, actually the plan was for something a bit longer than this, but the wrought iron laminate really did not like being twisted!) I had a lump of wrought iron 'damascus' left over from cladding material for the chefs knifes, I think its wrought / mild / possibly a hint of shiny metal in there. It had 90 layers chalked on it, it looks low layer in the twists though. I managed to pull this material out into a long bar, and did a bit of twisting, and left a bit as straight laminate. could not twist any tighter than I did, as it snapped if I tried. The edge steel is bloom that I got from Owen when he did a demo smelt at a blacksmiths event 5 years ago. It sparked up high carbon. I tried to work the bloom steel into a bar, but lack of experience showed, and it was not looking great, so I cheated, and welded the bloom steel either side of a piece of W2 'san mai' style. The held it all together enough to get a solid (ish) piece of material. I will be amazed if the edge on the finished blade is without problems though! Welded the 4 bars together, and have forged them into a rough seax shape. I could feel my forging getting scrappy, so stopped at this point. The whole piece is around 6mm thick still, so I have got a good bit of scope to stretch it on the final forge, when I put the tang in. The finished pattern will be pretty subtle. Felt good to just be doing some 'go with the flow' forging again!
  7. 7 points
    To celebrate my Christmas time off, I forged two seaxes from bloom (iron and steel). I smelted the steel (right, in the photo above) back in March from powdered hematite ore ("Spanish Red"). I helped Mark Green and Daniel Cauble make the iron (left, above) at an SCA event in October, using Mark's "easy ore" (NC limonite). Mark and I, feeding charcoal and ore into the smelting furnace: First, I had to compact the iron bloom into a bar: After doing the same to the steel, I forge welded the two together into a billet for the two blades: I decided to copy two 6-7th century seaxes from a cemetery at Finglesham, Kent (UK): I cut the billet in half and forged the blades (also, a chef's knife from 1075): Lots of grinding... ...and ready to harden! Water got them hard enough to skate a file on the first try, so I didn't have to resort to brine this time. They came out blessedly straight, which is never guaranteed with bloomery steel. And the patterns started to show! 9 hours of hand sanding later (up to 1500), they're ready for a ferric bath. Etched: For the handles, I used horn (like the originals). And, finished! The seax on the left is 35cm long; on the right 37cm. I set the iron perpendicular to the blade's edge when I welded the billet, so the folds show as stripes on the sides of the blade's spine:
  8. 6 points
    I set out to the forge this morning with a puukko in my head but changed my mind at the last minute to a wood carving hook knife. I have been watching videos of kuksa and spoon making and want to give this a go and if possible without power tools and it seems I needed a hook knife. I used a small piece of leaf spring for this and forged it as thin as I could with the blade geometry being flat on the inside with one beveled edge on the outside. I am sorry I did not get pics of the forging but I roughly forged to shape and finished with a file and sandpaper. I then carefully bent the blade over a medium sized hammer head (seemed about the right diameter) which I clamped in the vice. This blade is very thin esp at the tip and I did not want to overheat it so I turned my forge right down and carefully heated it and did my 3 normalising cycles before the oil quench. I fully expected it to warp twist to some extent or crack but it held true and Survived. The scale along the edge blew off in the quench and when I did a file test with a small rat file it skated nicely (it took a few strokes as expected to get rid of a bit of decarb on the fine edge before it skated. Anyhow it is in the first temper cycle at the moment. I may end up taking the tip back a bit later but thought it was better to make it longer than too short. If anyone else has made one of these or carved a kuksa or spoon I would love to see your work too. As always any comments, feedback critique etc appreciated
  9. 6 points
    Cool stuff Mike! Finally got in the shop. I had to choose between all my current projects. Made more headway with the guitar. Forgot to get a pic though. In due time! Welded this up on friday though. Happy new year y'all!
  10. 6 points
    I recieved this in the mail today: The pictures dont do it justice. The knife, sheath, and the story that came with it are extremely creative, and very well done. It's a very humbling experience to realize that someone half your age has twice your skills!
  11. 6 points
    Hi guys, and here a otherone : Blade sanmai, folded wrought iron with 1.3505 core. The blade is 120mm long, 28mm high and 5mm thick. The handle i make from gold rain Wood and elk antler, with brass Fittings. With a colored cow leather sheath. Ruggero
  12. 5 points
    I just stumbled across this old german movie of the forging and grinding of an agricultural tool(don't know the english term.) The old guys are very skilled and the workshop is fenomenal, so I guess people on this forum would love to see this one too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK5QwqXW_BY&t=925s
  13. 5 points
    Seeing the axes you guys have been posting lately, plus doing a demo on the Ft. Meigs axe at my local guild in December, had me thinking about making a larger version of the axe in Gerald's tutorial here: http://www.geraldboggs.com/Axe_article.pdf. I wanted a cruiser-sized version since I have plenty of small hatchets. So, on December 7 I started on it. I used 1/2" x 2" mild flat bar for the body. Here it is after I did all I could in one forging session: The plan was to finish it the following weekend, but on December 13 I was struck down by the flu, which turned into pneumonia and kept me down and out for the next three weeks, so I didn't get back to it until yesterday. So Yesterday I cleaned up the profiles and spread the blade section. 1/2" x 2" bar is no joke to hand forge, especially if you've been out of the shop for nearly a month. Today I thought I would finish it off, using an assortment of tricks with too-small drifts and a bick designed by Jim Austen to do the back of the eye on his Dane axes, which has come in handy for a lot of axe work. Of course I forgot to get a picture of it, but it's in his dane axe tutorial. But, the design of the preform for this axe lends itself to finishing on a small bick without a drift IF you have good hammer control. As you can see, I do NOT have excellent hammer control. Good, but not good enough. So next weekend I will make a drift to fit the eye, which turned out to be a full-sized felling axe eye. So the drift will be handy for other axes in the future. Plus you can't see it in the pics, but the edge is slightly twisted out of true relative to the eye. Gotta have a drift to fix that. I could fix that little floop on the left side with the bick, but I can't fix the twist on it. I'll probably thin out the body a bit more as well. Specs: Body started out as 10 inches or so of 1/2" x 2" mild. Edge steel is 1/4" x 1" 1084. No power tools have touched it yet, this is strictly by hand hammer and anvil. Final weight (so far) is 2lb 13 7/8 ounces, or about 1.25 Kg. For comparative purposes, here it is with a 3.5 lb Collins felling axe from the 1990s: Exactly the size I was looking for. Now to find a chunk of steel big enough to make the drift...
  14. 5 points
    Couple attempts at planning the engraving. These things change pretty organically as I’m engraving so this is more of a suggestion than anything.
  15. 5 points
    Had a nice chilled last day of the holidays before back to work 'proper' tomorrow. I just went with the flow on the forging, and it came out not too bad. Few weld defects here and there, but nothing I was not expecting. Using old material of variable consistency, and bloom steel does not help! Blade has come out 19" long, plus the handle. Its 7 mm at the beak, with a little bit of 'reverse' distal taper to the tang. The first two photos are 100% as forged, no grinding at all. The second 'in the vice' photo is after I knocked some weight off it on the grinder, touched the profile a touch, then gave it a gentle reforge to set the tang better, and true everything up. Its had a couple of normalisations, and has lost nearly enough weight for heat treating, its about 1/8" at the edge. Gave it a quick vanity etch to see where im up to
  16. 5 points
    A couple new hunters for 2020. 1080/15N20 steel forged into C's ,stainless fittings, Micarta handle and a Maple burl handle. The third knife is some twisted crushed W's with a black linen handle and dovetailed bolster.
  17. 5 points
    I was thinking about making something that could be used for knife making, or rather sheath making. I would suggest a leather worker's knife for the 2020 KITH. Head knife, Skiving knife, Tooling knife, groover, edger, etc. Get ourselves in the "make your own tools" mindset.
  18. 5 points
    On to the fittings. This is how I did it. Cut the copper pipe and flattened it. I then cut the pieces to size and marked the fold creases with a bluntish cold chisel. Then just opened my vise a bit and used a bit of scrap brass the same thickness of my leather and hammered it down to get my u shapes. To make the rings I cut strips from some thick copper plate and heated them up in the forge and then quenched them to soften them before bending them around some steel pipe and brazing the joints. Here are the fittings so far laid out in order. Still got some cleaning up esp on the point end which I will grind to fit the bottom end once riveted. This sheath build is as much work as the blade. Making this gives me such a great sense of awe and appreciation for the craftsmen of long ago.
  19. 5 points
  20. 5 points
    A funny one, I have no recollection of forging this one, Im guessing it went the in 'meeeh' pile as it was probably supposed to be longer than it is! Ive only worked with Blue2 core steel for the last couple of years, and its def, my blade stamp which ive had for less than 2 years, so I did make it! - I think its wrought, 15n20, with blue 2 core. I put a photo of the bare blade on instagram a few weeks ago, and it was snapped up - customer chose the handle material which I was very unsure about, but I now think it looks quite jolly. Nice to move away from my 'dark place' of bog oak. (though I snuck a bog oak piece into the handle!) Not pushing the boundries of bladesmithing, and not the most elegant of knives but Im quite pleased with it overall
  21. 5 points
    Ive had a long year with work and responsibilities, but I have tried to make a bit of therapy time for the craft, and push to improve at making. This is the last one out of the stable for 2019, its a 240 x 50 gyuto, in a wrought iron damascus san mai, over blue paper steel, with a chunky nickle barrier layer in the mix. Im happy with it when I compare it to what I was making 12 months ago! pics are a bit washed out, but its got character in real life! Handle is bog oak, with a copper spacer. Happy making next year everyone! ive got so many ideas for 2020, if anyone can lend me some time
  22. 4 points
    I'm working on mounting this serpent core broken back seax blade I forged last year. Blade has a silver steel edge bar, then a bar of wrought iron. Core is two bars of low contrast twist with a 15n20 trim, set in high Mn mild, and there's another strap of wrought on top. Handle is burr elm, with a horn and bone bolster: I'm wondering if the flare on the butt end of the handle is too much? What do you think?
  23. 4 points
    This one I made for around camp and general tasks where a small axe is needed. The head is a tapered friction fit for easy replacement in the field and the poll is hardened As well. I put the leather to protect the haft and it makes for a comfortable handle when gripped up for finer work.
  24. 4 points
    I dont know how to make this it's own category, and I didn't know where else to put it. But I just had an idea for a future KITH and I wanted to get it into writing before I forget it . How about a blade (parameters to be determined) HTed and finished, but without a handle, so the recipients put the handles on, that way every entry would be a collaboration between two smiths? Just a thought. I think it would be a lot of fun!
  25. 4 points
    Been a long time since I've posted any finished work, but here are three I made for a customer for Christmas: 1084 with bone slabs and G-10 spacers. A lot of firsts here for me. Trying to make three identical knives was a good challenge and learning experience. These are the closest thing to a "contemporary" piece I have ever made. My first foray into well defined riccasos and plunge lines. I got the order in Sept/Oct... finished them the night of December 22. Need to work on time management. I learned a lot about how valuable "truly flat" really is. I learned the worth of 36 and 60 grit ceramic belts. Learned a lot about fit & finish. My customer seemed really pleased. He ordered three more before November. I should probably start them before October.
  26. 4 points
    Just scored this guy. Gear drive, auto downfeed, back gear.
  27. 4 points
    I finally had time to make the handle on a blade I bought long ago. It was made by Kris Lipinski. Life got in the way, but I think it was worth waiting to have proper time for it rather than rush it. This is walnut and red deer antler with nickel silver fittings. Now I have to make the sheath.
  28. 4 points
    I hope it won't feel too much spamming but thinking about going through my finished shelf and make a few posts about those I'm comfortable with showing others This is my first forged sword. When I began straightening out and beating on the leaf spring I didn't really have any clear idea about what I was attempting to make. Ideas went from a messer to dao to elven and ended up as a cutlass with a bit of steampunk vibe to it. Overall lenght is 770mm Blade length is 625mm 34mm wide at the base 7mm thick at the guard and tapers down to 3mm 30mm from the tip Weight is 1016grams and the pob is 10cm from the guard Bevels are flat ground from edge to back Had a piece of stabilized and smoked oak for the handle and decided to try out fluting that came out okayish. Single strands of copper wire inlayed in the handle as I didn't find thin enough copper wire to twist at the time. Guard is mild steel and copper that got a coat of gunblue span widgetspan widget
  29. 4 points
  30. 4 points
    Well here it is all done, I am happy with how this turned out in the end esp since it is my first sheath of this type and also my first go at leather tooling (thanks Josh). I have a confession....I had become a bit stale and board with making knives and I feel this has lit a fire again and inspired me to delve into the artist within me. I am really looking forward to my next project which will be a sheath for my pattern welded broken back seax. I also got some 90cm lengths of 15n20 and 1075 so this year I hope to get creative with my blades too. Thank you to all who have come along for the ride and for those who have posted invaluable info throughout this forum esp in history. Anyhow it is Friday night in Australia and I am about to crack a beer and light the BBQ. looking forward to any feedback etc. Oh...one more thing. I would appreciate any info/suggestions on your preferred suspension for this type of sheath as it might very well see active service on my bow hunts.
  31. 4 points
    So I did get a lot further on this project. I just took my time with all the hand sanding, almost three feet of blade with three fullers apparently takes a while to sand up to 400 grit. I even had to start at 80 grit, because I cant get nice convex bevels on my grinder. I finished the blade with scotchbrite pads, it was the first time I used it and I am wondering why it took me so long to use this stuff. The finish is a lot nicer than just plain sandpaper. After sanding it was time for handle work, here the problem was that I don't have any hardwood blocks that are long enough (40cm) I did however have an old oak coat rack stowed away somewhere, so it was recycling time. Of course there were nails and woodworm holes I had to fix, but in the end I did end up with a very nice handle. I am thinking of doing a cord or wire wrap to reinforce the front of the handle, as the wood gets quite thin in places. or maybe even thin leather or rayskin? I need to get some in hand shots and a cutting video, this thing as an absolute beast.
  32. 4 points
    My son sent me the following photos the other day,he works for Highways England, they were taken on his early shift somewhere near Leicester
  33. 4 points
    It is Christmas day here in Norway today - so I've spent the past three days forgings this little thing for my wife as a Christmas present. It is a dinner fork - from Ferrier's rasps and 15n20 steel. It was nerve wrecking to start forging the curves after having done so many hours of filework... I wanted to do more, but this is all I had time for. Finished 3AM on Christmas eve... Alright, Happy Holidays people, and have a good one! Sincerely, Alveprins.
  34. 4 points
    Daggers are a three step process. Not only do you check for square to the guard as in the above, you also have to check equality in profile and straightness of the center rib, on both sides of the dagger. First you get the guard straight in the same way we did the Bowie above. Then you move the mirror to the side of the blade. Now you look down the blade into the mirror again. The profile should be straight in the reflection. The center line should be perfectly straight down the blade and right through the reflection. Any deviation means you have to go back and grind or file the bevels again to get the line straight. Thanks Joël. I wasn't done yet. I was working on the dagger process when your post appeared.
  35. 4 points
    Here are some recent pics of some Magpie Geese that come in droves this time of year. It is goose season at the moment and while I used to shoot them with gun and bow I now shoot them with the camera.
  36. 4 points
    It's a cold, snowy day today and I was looking for an excuse to fire up the forge. I opted on doing something that I have forged in many a year, an integral:
  37. 3 points
    Tomorrow my little shop turns into a working classroom as my first two students arrive to learn some of my Damascus techniques. Tomorrow their goal will be to design & build a mosaic billet and cut it into tiles ready for the canister which they will weld up on Saturday and forge into a blade to take home with them. The propane tank is full and I have a good supply of 1080 & 15N20. Time to make some steel!
  38. 3 points
    Bogaczewo culture,warrior set plus oryginals. Main belt + knife + whetstone + spear with tip + two javelins + ax.
  39. 3 points
    Sometimes you just have to decide you're a bigger, badder son of a bitch than the demon.
  40. 3 points
    I got blade #1 almost ready for H/T. I changed my mind on the handle for it. I think that I'll go with a sub-hilt.
  41. 3 points
    First off - It is never to late to quit smoking. To answer your question: yes and no... Smoking causes all kinds of problems: inflammation of the lung tissues, thicker mucous production, decreased ciliary movement (the little hairs that help bring stuff back up out of the lungs). These things have been shown to repair themselves after you quit, not to mention the general decrease in Carbon Monoxide taking place of oxygen molecules in the blood... There are all kinds of other problems smoking causes. Increased cardiovascular risk (Heart attack), decreased tissue repair (like healing after surgery or a injury), and lung cancer risk... These things also improve when you quit smoking. Unfortunately, the lung destruction I showed in the pictures up there do not. Those holes will stay, and that part of the lung cannot exchange oxygen anymore.
  42. 3 points
    Brut in 80CRV2 and maple. I'll have to measure it when I get home, but looking at about 17" OAL. Beast of a blade. $450 shipped. Brut1.mp4
  43. 3 points
    I've been fascinated by germanic single edged weapons for a long time and made this one a few months ago 29cm long blade that's 7mm thick at the bolster The nagel goes through the bolsters and tang and peened to hold everything solidly together, the beech scales are fastened with rolled copper tubes, buttcap was then peened onto the tang
  44. 3 points
    Gettin it done I see Gary! I got bit by bare wires core drilling on a jobsight once. It'll grab ya! I worked on my gee-tar again today. Its really coming along. I used really old rough cut oak that had some termite damage for the top, and hollowed out basswood for the back. I had to get a more structurally sound piece to hold the bridge. I'll be hand sanding for a long time. I plan to do some cool stuff with vinegaroon. It'll look like a masking tape ninja taped and stained it, either that or like I used more expensive woods. I cut the fret slots, but I'm gonna wait for stainless frets to come in. Decided nickle wears too fast as I've already worn down the first fret under the A string on the strat. I also plan on doing cool stuff with damascus with a pickguard and some other hardware.
  45. 3 points
    Thanks guys! I got a quick selfie() so you can see the scale a bit better. This also is the only picture where the fullers are a bit visible, even at a satin finish they are too reflective for my camera skills.
  46. 3 points
    I came up with a new design yesterday that I got started on at the forge today. This one will be a slender and very pointy dagger. I made the Damascus billet from a couple of old billets that were laying around the shop that weren't large enough by themselves. (If you look closely you can see the lengthwise layers of them) I'm not positive of what handle material that I will use but it seems like it needs a black handle with stainless fittings.
  47. 3 points
    Once I get a pommel nut made the hilt components will all be roughed out. Then it will be time to fine tune, sand & polish them for final assembly.
  48. 3 points
    Thanks For the Faith fellas. Well keeping with the dark theme of the raven I tried my hand at drawing up a design and gave my first try at tooling leather a go (Thanks Josh for your tutorial). As with everything there is always heaps of room for improvement and I will need to make more tools but in any case this is where I am at so far. It would have been much better and easier to tool the leather flat before moulding but I had to mould the broken back hump in and could not see a way to do the tooling first. Next is stain leather and make fittings.
  49. 3 points
    Hi guys, here the finished dagger : Ruggero
  50. 3 points
    Finished this xmas present for my brother. Yet another 5.5" petty in 26c3@63-64hrc(same batch as the other). I tried a Qtip for the mustard patina this time. Different result but I like it. Scales are padauk and G10. I tried the CA glue trick for the first time on this one. Worked like a charm.
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