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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/11/2021 in all areas

  1. I'm still alive... and still hammering them out. Although, more so for pleasure than for business these days. Much more enjoyable that way for me! Here's a little hunter that I finished up that's going to a good home. Another knife which I wish I could have kept. Thanks for looking folks and hope all are doing well.
    12 points
  2. I recently finished something that would be nice to show here. I actually started this knife in june last year, this is the longest I've ever worked on anything. I actually started as a relaxing blade to make for myself between commission work, but it fought me every step of the way, and turned out to be super difficult to make the way I envisioned. As I was finally making some good progress I decided to move out of my parents house and go live on my own, it is super exciting but left me with little time to work on knives. Sadly I can't forge at my own place,
    11 points
  3. Hi everyone... Previously I posted a little sneak peek at something I was working on.. Well, now that little something has come to completion - and I'm ready to share it with those who might be interested at having a look. I've always wanted to give it a shot at a dagger - since this blade geometry has fascinated me ever since I was a kid... And without further ado, after 170 work hours - I give you Vegvisar - the Pathfinder! I have forged this dagger in honor of the four dwarves, Norðri, Suðri, Austri and Vestri - supporting the heavenly dome
    10 points
  4. I made this for a friend many years ago and thought I’d lost all of the photos. It’s one of the favorites of my work. Found it and wanted to share it. Thanks for looking!
    8 points
  5. This knife I finished almost a month ago. It is the first full tang I've done in quite a while. It has a 3 1/4" blade, 4 1/4" handle, 7 1/2" overall. The blade is 1080 steel, and the handle is resin and maple burl with a horse head mosaic pin and two blind pins. I also made a case for this one in addition to a sheath. My sewing skills are a tad rusty, and it didn't help that the sewing machine was out of commission, but it will work well to to transport it to blade show with me. As always, critiques are welcomed and thanks for looking.
    8 points
  6. Finished these up in the last few months and thought I would share. 1 - Camp knife with a "bollo-ish" kinde of profile - ground from AEB-L with 2 tone G10 2 - Clip Point hunter 5" blade of chainsaw/1084 powder, blackwood spacers and mule deer crown 3 - Loveless style hunter in feather damascus and elk antler handle. Thanks for looking, Clint
    8 points
  7. This one needs another 3-4 coats of finish on the wlnut scales and it will be ready to sharpen:
    7 points
  8. Hi all: Michael is doing his magic and recompiling (or whatever you call it) the videos from the DVD's generously loaned by Alan. So far we have Don's hand finishing techniques, Peter's sword construction, and my crushed W's pattern welding video. You can find them on his channel or the Arctic Fire website. Thanks Michael! Dave https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCONxF6KdMJN9ymPa2pT5S6A/videos http://www.arcticfire.org/videos.html
    7 points
  9. I just finished up these two. The first is the finished By-Knife from that longseax billet I haven't finished yet.... Copper alloy bolster, deer antler spacer and scorched ash handle. My lame attempt at carving something. 5" blade, 10.25 OAL The next one is another cubic inch challenge, except that it started as much less than a cubic inch. Sambar stag handle, 410 Stainless hardware. 3.25" blade from point to face of guard. 7.75" OAL I have wanted to try this thing where the butt cap is filed to match the antle
    7 points
  10. A brief break from the forge... This is the result of a three or four year project. My Dad bought a 1973 Kawasaki 100 G4 Trail Boss in 1973. He ran it in enduro and motocross races for a few years and then gave it to me when I was about 12. I rode it to high school until I got my car license in '82. At that point it pretty much fell into abandonment, but we always hung on to it and just rolled its flat tires from one shed to another until my son showed some interest in it a few years ago. He took off like a shot on the restoration but soon got bored and back in the shed
    7 points
  11. First bowie in a while, (from surgery January). This is Aldo’s W2 and a piece of Bocote I found at Woodcrafters. Finish is 800 grit but I left the vertical grind lines in at 320 grit. I like the sharp angles where the two meet ....... (and I also had a “bug up my butt” to get back to working, blade was already completed). Hardware is nickel silver and domed pins. I prefer handle 4.25 to 4.5” range but I took this to 5.5”. I know it looks off /awkward but it feels great in hand as the balance changes favorably whether chopping or close cutting. Anyway.....getting back.....littl
    6 points
  12. I can't do much heavy lifting right now due to a recent back surgery. I've been puttering around for the last couple weekends putting the finishing touches on this one. 6" blade out of .070" thick 15N20. Stabilized curly maple with brass pins. This one is headed to a friend.
    6 points
  13. A little update since this post. W2 chef. 9.5” blade.
    6 points
  14. This one is a late birthday present for my son-in-law. This is a family that is serious about their farming... hogs, goats, beef cattle, meat chickens, laying hens, turkeys, etc. I was watching them work up some meat chickens with a less than sharp knife and decided something needed to be done. This one is plain and simple... kinda like a beefed-up butcher knife, or hunter/butcher hybrid. It is around 11" with a 6" blade. Red micarta slabs, brass pins, and 1080 steel. Shaving sharp. A note of nostalgia for some of you... I won thi
    6 points
  15. I don’t typically forge much during the cold wet months as I do when it’s warmer, just can’t take the cold, (hands especially). Last October I took a seasonal job looking for part time work. During Thanksgiving week, woke up one morning and couldn’t raise my arm, turned out rotator cuff and long head bicep tendon were torn, so having surgery January 8th, I stayed in a padding sling for 8 weeks 24 hours a day. Now, (with PT), I am getting better. So that’s my seque in order to post stuff I’ve had to puts aside! I’ll post some of these here and there but bear with me, I don’t intend to hog
    6 points
  16. Greetings fellows. Been a pretty rough couple of days, the kind of days that make good days shine. I came out to the hovel, flung the cap off a cold barley pop and fired up the forge with no plan. I used a scrap piece of 1084 that looked lonely and hammered out a blade shaped object that looked remarkably like my last knife.. doh. Used a stack of figured walnut bits that I was never quite sure what to do with and added a sheet of red brass. Some good rage draw filing and the blade was all pointy in the right places. A dive down the rabbit hole of drilling, filing, checking, repeat and this
    5 points
  17. Now it is time to HT the frame, if you made it from hardenable steel. Do a fairly soft or spring temper. I hand sanded the flats to 220 grit on the granite slab. What is important is that there is a continuous flat around the outside edge. This is what fill fit against the scales and you do not want any gaps. The ivory I have for this warped a bit in the last 6 years. I tried the mineral oil and clamp overnight. We will see how well it worked this morning. I also etched the blade yesterday. I had already fit the guard and spacers to the un
    5 points
  18. Since you're going to glue the pieces, something that can make it easier is to glue them to some heavy paper. This will hold them in place until you get them into the canoe and it burns off which will eliminate any oxygen inside the can as well.
    5 points
  19. I presume it was just out of insane jealousy of my charisma, talent, and rugged masculinity. Haters gonna hate. Right? (;
    5 points
  20. Did the final bit of hot work (brazing the 'S' bars and rams horns) to the basket I've been working on on and off for months... now for a daunting amount of grinding and filing and sculpting to get it into final shape before making the blade to go with it...
    5 points
  21. I've got some progress to show again, I'm really enjoying myself with this one. the blade finish forged: The profile and flats ground before heat treat, and some filing done on the shoulders. I like to heat treat as soon as possible, this way I have room to grind out small warps and I like to do most of the work with 60 grit anyway. I never really understood why people grind knives to 220 grit before heat treat. And the knife finish ground ready for hand sanding, I also have a design now My plan is to use stainless for the g
    5 points
  22. Spent a couple of days making this for a friends kid. It's bubinga, about 3/4" thick, 26" blade including the integral habaki, 36" o/a. Steel tsuba, leather seppas, copper fuchi and kashira, with a couple of simple steel menuki. The fittings slide on from the end of the handle, so I bulked up the handle profile with laminated card before adding the wrap. The wrap is cotton ito, and it was a bit of a nightmare wrapping on a full length sword as opposed to just the tsuka, and I struggled to get it as tight as I would like. With that and wrapping onto bare wood instead of rayskin, which gives the
    5 points
  23. Made some progress on @Dr Rays harpoon fighter today with all the work done pre heat treat now. I made a cutter to clean up the fuller from a piece of heavy spring steel and bent an old file to do the sanding.
    5 points
  24. 4 points
  25. You’re going to need that next week
    4 points
  26. Who would have thought I would find a use for hot pink nail polish. I etched the spacer yesterday and used the ugliest color nail polish I could find to cover the front and back to keep them from being etched. I then resanded the edges to make sure there was no nail polish that would block the etchant. The spacer turned out nice, with something resembling a star right on top. However, the guard unfortunately only has a couple of 15n20 lines that go across the face, so it doesn't give me the exact look I was going for. At least there are plenty of lines on the sid
    4 points
  27. Well, got this finished up and feel a little underwhelmed. Might have needed some dragon heads or something
    4 points
  28. That about wraps it up folks on the process. There is still a bit of work to do to get this finished, but here is the frame between the scales. Top side Bottom side Heel Here is the knife as it sits tonight. I still have to mark the blade, decide if I want to blue it, and finish shaping and etching the guard.
    4 points
  29. Alright, so I wanted to make a special "Certificate of Authenticity" for this blade - but it turned out a disaster... I decided to make an attempt at illuminating some calfskin parchment with gold and silver pen, as well as caligraphy pointed permanent markers. I made the design on my tablet, printed it - taped the parchment to the paper and traced the lines. However - my markers - struggled to transfer any pigment down to the parchment, and only the very first lines from a fresh marker would be nice and clean... after that I had to use the marker multiple times over the
    4 points
  30. This was a rushed pic, but here is the end result and I was thrilled to get it.
    4 points
  31. A little project I've been working on over the last couple months. Well I bought the lower receiver back in September of 2019 but just made a push to get it finished. If anyone is interested in the breakdown of the parts and what they all cost I can figure it all out and post it. I took 8 shots at this plate at 420 yards and was on target after three shots and hit 5 times. It is chambered in the 6.5 grendel.
    4 points
  32. I really shouldn't be left unsupervised . The dragon is 45 layers of 75Ni8 and 80CrV2 with a 23cm cutting edge and 53mm high at the heel. Starts at a chunky 5mm thick at the bolster and distal tapers to 1mm 2cm from the tip. Handle is of course ebony and brass. Thinking I really need to make a fancy sheath for it as well
    4 points
  33. Im afraid no tips on it. I have made knives from bearing race, but not enough to have any quantifiable technique. All I know is its hard to work under the hammer (not enjoyable) and fussy. Steel's the cheapest bit of bladesmithing (takes a while to appreciate that) - I need the odd 'easy win' with my hobby so stick to simple steels ive 'learnt' , and I use expensive (but still very cheap in the overall scheme of things) Japanese steel for most of my chefs knives (Aogami Blue paper etc), which Im getting a handle on now. Lots of ways to cock up making a knife, so I try and remove a
    3 points
  34. Two grandsons in Michigan asked for granddad to make them each a knife. So I’m am gifting each one next week....... both alike. Yes they have a favorite college in Michigan and the colors are represented. They’ll learn these are tools when hiking in the woods with their dad. Gary LT
    3 points
  35. You're taking pressurized flammable gas, lighting it on fire, and then supercharging it. No shame in being careful. It's even ok to be slightly afraid (aka terrified) the first couple times you light it up!
    3 points
  36. I may be in over my head, but I'm invested now. I don't have the starting pics, but I began with a billet of 20 layers 1095/15n20, then a couple of fat slabs of 1084 around a 3-2-1-1-2-3 1095/15n20 core, and another 1095/15n20 stack, so about 60 layers. Welded, crushed, stacked, crushed, turned, crushed, and stacked and brought down to 2x1x15 inches. After cutting that into slabs, I realized that I did not have enough material, so I did the whole megillah again. Then I cut a bunch of 1x2 slabs and nipped the corners off to get here. There are actually 2 more pieces t
    3 points
  37. Had a play with finishing the sheep sheer knife with a trial handle approach. Left the blade unpolished except for the bevel grind but it came up reasonably well so I can do a few more of them this way with nicer wood although this piece of eucalyptus has a little figure that works well
    3 points
  38. Good job! Kinda self assuring when you pull it off for the first time. Be careful though, Damascus gets addicting!
    3 points
  39. i find an angle grinder does a better job of removing saw dust than the plasma your mileage may vary
    3 points
  40. Now onto the fun. I took that 13 layer bar, twisted the snot out of it and flattened it. Here is the glamor shot. I cut the untwisted ends off it. Welds look good. This cut really easily on the bandsaw , so I split it down the middle. Now I thought about this for a minute or two and decided to try something new. (dangerous business when you have a time limitation). But the handle I want has some pretty tight corners. These tend to break when you bend the bar that way. So I decided to cut a notch in the bar to make
    3 points
  41. And this one was a bit of an experiment. San mai 115crv3 core with 75ni8 cladding. Forged very thin and a fuller on the right side for food release. Ebony and copper for the handle. Grinding such big flats without overheating was the biggest challenge
    3 points
  42. little puukko kinda thing for today
    3 points
  43. Just my experience in heat treating 1095 fire strikers. I have never gotten a crack using brine rather than plain water. With plain water I lost about as many as I succeeded in hardening. Brine cools faster than water, much more evenly, and yet is much less violent. Cracks in the steel are caused by uneven cooling. A 26 oz box of salt in 2 gallons of water. I warm the brine to be kind of hot, but not so hot you cannot put your hand in it. Brine works better than plain water because the salt blocks and breaks up the vapor jacket as fast as it forms which produces a more even and faster physical
    3 points
  44. Well I was making a san mai for a kitchen knife and as usual grossly over estimated how much steel I would need So I was left with some small pieces of steel and thought I had never tried making a folding knife before and this would be a great excuse. Paper templates and some vague planning would definitely have helped as it turned out I had drilled the pivot hole a bit to close to centreline. Seeing as it wouldn't turn out as I had hoped it turned into an experiment piece for texture and patina. What I learned from this is not to bring salmiak spirit up t
    3 points
  45. Hi. I just finished my latest project. It is a replica of an early medieval (Viking Age) spearhead. It is a reconstruction of the find from Ciepłe (Poland). It is completely made of bloomery iron. I have used 3 kinds of materials: soft low carbon iron smelted from hematite ore, high carbon steel I made in Aristotle furnace, and high phosphorus low carbon iron smelted from bog ore. The socket is a wrap and welded. The pattern-welded twist bars are welded on both sides of the spear core. To weld twist pattern billets I used high carbon steel and P-iron, cutting edge is steel, socket and core is
    3 points
  46. DVDs retrieved, en route to Post Office shortly.
    3 points
  47. You have seen his ‘Interests’ under his profile pic? He’s not kidding
    3 points
  48. big brother is watching
    3 points
  49. And made a simple sheath for it as well. Was tempted to make a belt loop for it because you never know when you might have to carve a steak or chop some onions
    3 points
  50. All knife makers do stock removal to some extent.
    3 points
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