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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    This is the latest collaboration sword from myself Petr Florianek . We wanted to make another fantasy sword yet at the same time keeping a firm grip on reality. This a very much a “real” sword but also a dragon slaying hero’s sword! The sword blade takes inspiration from early Saxon blades, marrying that history into Tolkien’s middle earth and the world of the Rohirrim horse lords. The blade was made by myself and the handle and scabbard are Petr’s work. The blade takes inspiration from early Saxon patternwelded blades and has a lenticular section giving it the heft and strength needed when fighting dragons! It is important for me that anything I make has a functional reality to it. A reality based upon the imagined purpose of the object . This is the sword of a mighty horselord hero with the pride and fate of his people behind him. A sword for battling a dragon. Bryneleoma has a patternwelded blade 3 core bars twisted anticlockwise, clockwise and anticlockwise, the core bars are wrapped in a high layer damascus edge . The bold core pattern contrasting the fine layers of the edge. In Petr’s words… I wanted to make a truly heroic sword and when given Owen’s mighty blade, I had enough inspiration to get the feel of it. The blade is hefty and long so I immediately started to picture a mounted warrior; a hero on a horse, a proto knight if you will. The inspiration for this sword is firmly set in Tolkien’s Middle Earth, in the world of the Rohirrim horse lord. The motives for ornamentation are simple – he dragon on the pommel as the most powerful enemy but also a symbol to ward off evil. On the handle a series of knots representing fate being spun by higher beings. The knot on the guard symbolises oath, the oath of the horse lord bound to his people as their protector. An oath from sword to swordsman, the guard of the sword being there to protect its heroic master. I love doing these pieces with Petr, and always look forward to getting the finished piece. He has a way of bringing a blade to life.....
  2. 10 points
    Hunter , 1095, brass, leather, deer antler, total length 25.5 cm blade 13 cm.
  3. 9 points
    It seems Brian and I both had the idea to follow Steve Culver's instruction book on how to built a slipjoint folder without making patterns first. Like Brian, I know this is not going to be my last one! This one is bound for Knife in the Hat, and I will use what I learned making it to make the next one even better. Specs: Blade and backspring, 3/32" precision ground O-1 flat bar Brass liners with Nickel Silver bolsters and pins. Jigged bone scales from Culpepper & Co., Amber dyed, Catalina pattern. Open length 5 7/8" / 147mm, blade length 2 5/8" / 66mm. Closed length 3 1/4" / 82mm Maximum thickness 3/8" / 11mm I made two changes from Culver's design. I omitted the scale pin near the peak of the liners because I thought it was unnecessary and distracting, and I rounded the tang because I've never liked a knife with a half-stop. It just seems ridiculous to me and serves no purpose except to break your thumbnail if the spring is too strong. Speaking of which, I am really happy with the spring. It isn't too heavy, and the knife snaps open and closed with authority. The judge of how strong to make the spring is my wife, if she thinks it's too strong, back to the grinder! It feels much like any good factory knife of its size, spring strength-wise. And now for the pics! The problems I had with this one: 1. The pivot pin is not invisible on one side. 2. The blade is not dead center when closed. 3. A minor slip at the grinder moved the left-hand plunge line back into the kick. 4. While soldering the bolsters, the scribed line on the right bolster was not where I thought it was, resulting in a mismatch between the two sides. Much colorful language and careful filing followed. There has been a bit more cleanup on it after these pics were taken, mostly to remove that facet on the underside of the bolsters. I also engraved that spot with my initials since I forgot to do the blade prior to hardening...
  4. 8 points
    Finishing this up for a friend. She wanted a seax with some Japanese flavour, and this is what I came up with. 7 1/2" blade, 1" wide and 1/4" thick at the break, 13" overall. Sculpted copper blade collar, buffalo horn fuchi and kashira with copper accents. Carved walnut handle in a take down construction secured by a copper pin. The blade needs a light buffing to brighten it, and I need to finish the sheath tomorrow, so I'll try and get some better pics then... let me know what you think...
  5. 8 points
    I have been playing with feather patterns recently, started up looking at illerup idal blade fern patterns and later evolved to a feather pattern , trying to get a stand alone feather...Its been fun. and has lots of spin offs running in my mind. firy , flamy frondy stuff!
  6. 7 points
    Hi all, here's another chef knife. This time with african blackwood and a mustard patina. As usual, thoughts and critique welcome
  7. 7 points
    I've been working on a second slip-joint, and decided to try a bit of filework on the spring Here is the blade for it...
  8. 6 points
    Hi All Just finished, 3 Bar Seax, handle yew capped with sterling silver fittings, Total length 37.5 cm, blade 22.5 cm Richard
  9. 6 points
    Here's my latest. 6" 80CrV2 blade with the infamous mustard patina, micarta bolster and lacewood. Critique welcomed!
  10. 6 points
    This is kind of getting addictive. my 2nd and 3rd attempts at a slip-joint. I'm still pretty much just using Culver's design, but have been experimenting with using a pivot bushing, and how much clearance to leave to allow for a nice snappy action. I'll probably start taking more liberties with the overall design now. Both have blades from a mosaic bar I made for this purpose a few weeks ago, and nickel silver pins and bolsters. I still have much to learn, but each of these has been a significant improvement over the previous one. The first has stag scales and will be a birthday gift for my daughter's boyfriend. (Yeah I know, but he is a good guy and I really like him in spite of my fatherly instincts ) The second has jigged bone scales (I just bought the slabs already jigged), and is now my new EDC pocket knife.
  11. 5 points
    It seems like it is about time to start my folder for this kith. I initially wanted to do one of those cool slipjoints, but after some testing and broken drill bits I decided to stick to a friction folder, that will be hard enough for me. I have been working on a prototype, and it is now good enough to show here. This one is 1095 with copper scales, and I´ve done some carving on the handle. The hinge pin is steel, and the rest of the pins are copper, that didn’t blend in as nicely as I wanted. I’m thinking of going for brass pins on the “real’’ version, brass might also be a bit more durable. The knotwork is hand (hammer and chisel) engraved, something I really need to practise more. I think I will keep this one for myself, and I took the opportunity to test some belt finishes, I just got some of the trizact gator belts and I don´t know how I lived so long without them. I did some antiquing on the copper, this makes the engraving stand out, and also just adds some character, I think this little knife will look a lot better after some months in my pocket. The actual kith knife will be Damascus, as a stock removal monosteel blade just doesn´t compare to those awesome slipjoints people are building. So here Is a little teaser of how my Kith will look:
  12. 5 points
    Completing this 7.5" blade kitchen knife. I tried a simple handle design consisting of the reversed egg cross section shape and a rounded butt. It's very comfy but i am not sold to the style. What do you guys think? It's micarta and black walnut.
  13. 4 points
    So this was a first attempt, I see on Instagram that this type of knife is very popular so I wanted to take a crack at making one. its O1 tool steel with dyed and treated leather for a spacer and then gutted paracord for the crossover wrap and non gutted for the turks head knot. There are a few things I would do different with this one, the handle is a bit short, even for me, someone with larger hands would consider this a 3 finger type knife, and I narrowed the tang out a bit more then I should have considering I used gutted paracord for the main wrap portion so there is a thickness difference between the blade and the handle, but all in all I really like how it turned out, its nice and light in the hand, and falls perfectly into a reverse grip and feels like it was made to be used that way.
  14. 4 points
    Here's a look at my dagger after changing the pommel:
  15. 4 points
    Just finished this up. Made it at the start of the year but never got around to polishing the blade, and today a visitor saw it and wanted to buy it, so I said I'd get it finished for tomorrow. 3" blade with a wrought spine and silver steel edge, etched first in ferric then in coffee. Antler bolster with copper trim. Carved Yew Burr handle. let me know what you think...
  16. 4 points
    Since I haven't made one in several years I'm going to style my next after those of William Butcher of 19th century Sheffield but with a random pattern damascus blade. Here's one with a mono-steel blade that I made years ago. I may vary from it a little but this will give you a basic concept. The weather here today is pretty oppressive so I only got in limited shop time but did manage to get this one started. The damascus will eventually be 336 layers in a random pattern. The blackwood shown here will be the handle. I didn't have any 416 the right thickness for the front handle spacer so I milled a tang slot in what I had which will get cut in half, doubled, pinned & soldered.
  17. 4 points
    Hello, I forged this 7 3/4 inch long blade from a San mai billet I made with 200 layer 1084/15N20 sandwiching a piece of 80CRV2. It is 1/4 thick at the ricasso, flat ground with a convex edge. Makers mark etched on the blade spine. The guard and spacer are mild steel and gun blued. Handle is ironwood with a stainless pin. Sheath is 8oz leather with a beavertail hide overlay and hand stitched by yours truly. Price is $350 shipped. I am in Alberta, Canada. Please PM me and can send additional photos. Thanks, Clint
  18. 4 points
    First dry fit-up: I've yet to do some final hand sanding & polishing but it's getting close. I think that I'll save that for doing in front of the public tomorrow.
  19. 4 points
    Some quick iPhone pics to prove it so I can finally say this project is DONE! Summer gets crazy busy with almost no shop time but I eked out enough time to put on the finishing touches. I think I’ll try to get some good pictures and then these go to the intended recipients. Without further ado: Pretty proud of the result. Quite a few things I will tweak on the next go around. Always room for improvement. Hope you all enjoyed the WIP. Adam
  20. 3 points
    The customer on this one wants a Fairbairn/Sykes style dagger but has given me some artistic leeway on it. This being the case, I think that I will give it a damascus blade and probably a ribbed blackwood hilt with stainless fittings.
  21. 3 points
    My recently completed Nordic knife: 97 mm Scandi ground blade, cocobolo and ebony handle and peened brass bolster.
  22. 3 points
    This is what I've been working on for pretty much the last 3 months. It's probably the most difficult piece I've ever made, but I think I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out - it's not perfect, but honestly I think it might be my best work to date. It is based of a ballock dagger in the Smithsonian, though I took some liberties with the design. The blade is about 10 1/2" of 1095, clay hardened . It has quite a complex geometry, with the raised back edge and hollow ground 'flat', and has been given multiple etching cycles in FeCl for a deep French Grey look. The guard is forged and carved from 200 year old wrought iron, deeply etched and oil blued for a glossy black finish, and is framed by sculpted copper spacers (fitting those was no picnic...). The handle is made in three parts from a single red deer stag's antler, carved and pierced to show the twist forged tang within, and finished with shellac. The pommel is again wrought iron with copper accents, and the pommel nut is carbon steel sculpted into a dogwood flower and heat blued. The scabbard is built up from layers of magnolia veneer, lined with felt and covered in waxed lamb skin, with black deerskin trim and a cold forged copper chape and suspension ring for the belt loop, which holds a carved bone wrench for the pommel nut. The scabbard houses a by-knife and spike, both clay hardened, with oil blued mild steel guards and copper spacers, with carved bone handles. Anyway, pics: And here's the original: there's also dozens of in progress pics on my facebook -https://www.facebook.com/jake.cleland.14 - , as I was documenting it for the customer, anyway, let me know what you think...
  23. 3 points
    Last night I forged a hunting knife for my boss and ground it today. Made a template of the drawing he liked, then forged pretty close to shape. And I rehandled the chef knife I made in a class because it was off center from the blade.
  24. 3 points
    Today was one of those days when I wasn't easily satisfied and decided to remove the pommel from one of my finished daggers as it just didn't make me happy. I'm not sure if this is a character flaw or just the artist being finicky but either way, the knife is getting a new pommel. To replace it I am going with more of a European look. I forged some 1/8" stainless in the petals of a flower. The round brass rod shown here will become the pistil of the flower once contoured to fit. I'll probably give the pistil some texture just to add a little extra pizzazz.
  25. 3 points
    Progressing: I've yet to do a lot of sand & polish but it's getting there.
  26. 3 points
    Oh, I can beat that... Jake, dude, I know what it took to do that, and even so I am floored. You've outdone the original, and that is not easy! You really leveled up on this one. I'm going to pin this so you'll stay on the front page for at least 90 days after the last comment, this needs to be seen by everyone who visits the forum.
  27. 3 points
    Finished last night. I probably should have sanded the handle down to 600 grit rather than a buffed finish.
  28. 3 points
    Not exactly in the shop, but I managed to sneak away from camp by myself this morning for a couple of hours on the river. Now we're just sitting around waiting for the brisket to be done. It's gonna be a good day!
  29. 3 points
    I just finished a little blade for a guy who had a dream of making his own knife... So I cracked - and forged him this one. The one and only non-mounted blade I'll ever sell. Anyhow - thought it might be of interest to have a peek. Didn't do any fancy photo-shoot for this one, so it's a single mobile phone picture only... The blade is about 13cm long, and 3,something wide. 3,5mm thick. The pattern welded steel is made from an old sawmill blade and 15n20 for contrast. The edge is Øberg steel. Initial hardness after hardening and anealing for 3 hours was 63 HRC. Took me quite a few aditional hours to get it down to around 58... But here we are, all finished and polished up! Anyhow - time for summer vacation and motorcycle tour through the rest of Europe. fixing up my workshop with new benches, shelves, lighting and stuff - and then it's back to new and exciting projects after the summer!
  30. 3 points
    Hi, I'm new here and new to knife making. I had been considering having a go at making knives for some time so a couple of months ago I jumped into it. I'm absolutely hooked! I've used O1 for these blades and recycled/native wood for handle scales. These are my first three knives. My first attempt is a general purpose hunter or camp knife with a 4" blade and recycled Teak handle. The next two I built simultaneously. The largest one I built for my workmate who wanted something to stick wild pigs. It's a 7" blade again with Teak handle. The smaller tanto style knife is a utility/EDC with 4" blade and recycled NZ native Matai wooden handle and sheath. I've already gained a lot of valuable information from the forums here, so thank you all very much.
  31. 3 points
    Thanks guys. Finally finished this today...
  32. 3 points
    Hello ya'll. I've not posted much here, but have been reading a good bit. Since I've asked a couple of questions and received GREAT helpful answers I decided to show my attempt at Damascus. This is my very first Damascus attempt, and is nowhere near what you experts do. I stand in awe of the patterns ya'll do. I have done a few San Mai billets and blades. I forged up the Damascus billet, and finished the knife for the wife. This is a low layer count, 11 layers of 1095 and 15N20 with a .003" thick layer of pure nickel between each layer of carbon. I drew it out flat and I think I lost a couple of layers due to scale build up. I can't see as many layers as I put in it. Final thickness on blade is .100" at bolster with a distal taper to point. This is my very first Wa type handle - just wanted to try one. Wood is stabilized curly maple with African Blackwood. The wife wanted brass bolster and spacer, so that's what she got. I drilled a 5/16" hole thru the Blackwood, brass spacer, and into maple and epoxied a wooden dowel to provide some strength. With the tang going thru I suspect the wooden dowel isn't needed. Remember, this is a first attempt! Here is one of the San Mai blades I did for a SlipJoint folder. At this point the folder has really nice action and solid "Walk 'n Talk" without being a "nail breaker" to open. Posting photo to show the San Mai, and blade still needs some cleaning up before final assembly. Also got to finish the liners and mammoth ivory scales.
  33. 3 points
    I finally got time to watch this, and I have to say THANK YOU DAVE!!! Everyone needs to watch this (turn the sound up so you can hear what Dave is asking). It is at the heart of what makes this forum what it is, even though it has changed (as things inevitably do) over time, the core principles are still here. I miss having Don and Jake and Peter and Petr around on a daily basis, but I understand. When this video was made, Don had been retired for a couple of years and the Fiery Beards (as he called us) had taken over. We have faded into the background to some extent, and I haven't made anything worthy of the name in some time, but the fire is still here. Gather round and warm up, y'all!
  34. 3 points
    Thought I would do some kinda primitive thing that would be quick and easy.......... they look kinda rough and that was my initial intention, but really I should have gone a bit more rough or a bit more finished. Anyway, both forged from old Black Diamond files and clay hardend with wrapped wendge handles sealed with marine epoxy. Clint
  35. 3 points
    So, the pattern welded one is a sanmai with 80CRV2 centre core, blued mild steel fittings and ironwood. 7 3/4" long blade with a beavertail hide sheath. A fella saw it but wanted one made from stainless, so it's 8" blade is ground from S35V with stainless fittings and ironwood, also with a beavertail hide sheath. Clint
  36. 3 points
    If kitchen knife violence is that big of an issue, just make everyone eat baby food. No cutting necessary outside of tightly controlled government run food processing plants.
  37. 3 points
    That is just stupid.....so they can be slashed instead of stabbed? How about getting rid of the violent partners? UK has gone full retard.
  38. 2 points
    First of all, thank you gents....once again. My dad always said "met geweld kan jy jou vinger in jou hol af breek"......using force you can break off your finger in your a-hole So less force, chalk and the angle thing......that all worked. I'll still get RSI's, but my physiotherapist is a very pretty German girl, many others consider her a sadist, but I think she hurts good, so it all works out!
  39. 2 points
    Spent the last few days in the shop trying to finish this one up. Longer hunter style with a wrought iron guard and curly maple handle. This is right out of the ferric chloride, apparently I had put some copper in at some point and it coated the wrought a little. Just thought it looked cool. Is there anything anyone sees wrong or odd?
  40. 2 points
    Making some more progress on this one. Rough shaping of the handle is done.
  41. 2 points
    I was thinking last night, I actually really enjoy forging these blacksmith knives, the grinding has been very basic and trouble free. They sit great in the hand, if my plans with the handle work out they'll look good, and 52100 is about the best steel in my arsenal. My initial idea was they would be a budget offering which was unrealistic, but if I can get a good price for them I'm seriously considering churning out these for a while. I have a bucket full of bearing races left, one of which gives me 2 of the one or 3 of the other knives, and the handles will wood instead of micarta. Fresh out of temper and all I do is put on a handle and sharpen......no sanding, no struggle. Cop-out?
  42. 2 points
    I had a tag end of 1075 so decided to make a pattern for a camp knife/butcher knife. I had made myself one a long time back with a 8 1/2 inch blade for dicing meat etc when breaking down an animal but found it was more blade than I needed so thought this one with a 5 1/5 in blade would be more user friendly I had a bowie marked out as well so had the two of them to do Ground and ready for heat treat I wanted to try for a hamon so mixed up some very fine potters clay (for slip mix usually) with some wood ash and applied it to the blade. I know in hindsight that I had way too much on there which lead to the less than successfull hamon but at least there is the showing of one on the camp knife. The bowie not so much For the handle on the camp/butcher knife I started with a copper bolster and added black paper micarta, some blue G10 and another blaco paper micarta spacer before finishing with the walnut handle
  43. 2 points
    All: We were going through some old footage from AF 2012 and found a raw, unedited interview with Don. There are some parts that should be edited (some zooms, pans, some times where I'm asking him questions with no microphone) but it's still amazing. Don is a great speaker, and so eloquent on the philosophy of the craft. Here it is, no edits, just the raw footage but I think it's still pretty amazing. Enjoy! Dave https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6X22DSdnzE
  44. 2 points
    Awesome Gary, but that is your middle name, Gary Awesome Mulkey!!
  45. 2 points
    Just finished, Skinner/Utility with gut hook. Handforged 1084 blade, with 500 grit working finish. Blued steel bolster w/ red spacers. Whitetail handle (customer provided, from his own hunting). OAL- 9" Blade - 4.25"
  46. 2 points
    The reason I'm interested in this subject, is because I've seen a lot of muddled meanings when it comes to words and their meaning. We, as blacksmiths, like sailors, have a precise language, but for whatever reason, many of us choice not to use it. Add to that, over the last few decades, American smiths have been making up words. It's reached the point of having no clear common language. That's why the OP had to ask for the difference between drawing out and tapering, it's no longer clear which is which. So to again answer the OP's question. Drawing out/down is the process, a taper is one of the things you can do with this process. As in Drawing out a Taper.
  47. 2 points
    Thats why you dont bring a knife to an alligator fight
  48. 2 points
    Isn’t cussing a basic process for blacksmiths and bladesmith’s?
  49. 2 points
    Most of domestic violence and murders are done with bare hands. If we use their logic, It certainly is the hands fault and not the owner of the hands... Darn hands, they're so dangerous and violent...
  50. 2 points
    I like that look a lot...the hand forged buckle is a really cool touch too
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