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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    This is the latest collaboration sword from myself Petr Florianek . We wanted to make another fantasy sword yet at the same time keeping a firm grip on reality. This a very much a “real” sword but also a dragon slaying hero’s sword! The sword blade takes inspiration from early Saxon blades, marrying that history into Tolkien’s middle earth and the world of the Rohirrim horse lords. The blade was made by myself and the handle and scabbard are Petr’s work. The blade takes inspiration from early Saxon patternwelded blades and has a lenticular section giving it the heft and strength needed when fighting dragons! It is important for me that anything I make has a functional reality to it. A reality based upon the imagined purpose of the object . This is the sword of a mighty horselord hero with the pride and fate of his people behind him. A sword for battling a dragon. Bryneleoma has a patternwelded blade 3 core bars twisted anticlockwise, clockwise and anticlockwise, the core bars are wrapped in a high layer damascus edge . The bold core pattern contrasting the fine layers of the edge. In Petr’s words… I wanted to make a truly heroic sword and when given Owen’s mighty blade, I had enough inspiration to get the feel of it. The blade is hefty and long so I immediately started to picture a mounted warrior; a hero on a horse, a proto knight if you will. The inspiration for this sword is firmly set in Tolkien’s Middle Earth, in the world of the Rohirrim horse lord. The motives for ornamentation are simple – he dragon on the pommel as the most powerful enemy but also a symbol to ward off evil. On the handle a series of knots representing fate being spun by higher beings. The knot on the guard symbolises oath, the oath of the horse lord bound to his people as their protector. An oath from sword to swordsman, the guard of the sword being there to protect its heroic master. I love doing these pieces with Petr, and always look forward to getting the finished piece. He has a way of bringing a blade to life.....
  2. 10 points
    Hunter , 1095, brass, leather, deer antler, total length 25.5 cm blade 13 cm.
  3. 10 points
    It seems Brian and I both had the idea to follow Steve Culver's instruction book on how to built a slipjoint folder without making patterns first. Like Brian, I know this is not going to be my last one! This one is bound for Knife in the Hat, and I will use what I learned making it to make the next one even better. Specs: Blade and backspring, 3/32" precision ground O-1 flat bar Brass liners with Nickel Silver bolsters and pins. Jigged bone scales from Culpepper & Co., Amber dyed, Catalina pattern. Open length 5 7/8" / 147mm, blade length 2 5/8" / 66mm. Closed length 3 1/4" / 82mm Maximum thickness 3/8" / 11mm I made two changes from Culver's design. I omitted the scale pin near the peak of the liners because I thought it was unnecessary and distracting, and I rounded the tang because I've never liked a knife with a half-stop. It just seems ridiculous to me and serves no purpose except to break your thumbnail if the spring is too strong. Speaking of which, I am really happy with the spring. It isn't too heavy, and the knife snaps open and closed with authority. The judge of how strong to make the spring is my wife, if she thinks it's too strong, back to the grinder! It feels much like any good factory knife of its size, spring strength-wise. And now for the pics! The problems I had with this one: 1. The pivot pin is not invisible on one side. 2. The blade is not dead center when closed. 3. A minor slip at the grinder moved the left-hand plunge line back into the kick. 4. While soldering the bolsters, the scribed line on the right bolster was not where I thought it was, resulting in a mismatch between the two sides. Much colorful language and careful filing followed. There has been a bit more cleanup on it after these pics were taken, mostly to remove that facet on the underside of the bolsters. I also engraved that spot with my initials since I forgot to do the blade prior to hardening...
  4. 9 points
    Hello: Been sorta busy around here with family stuff since we have a brand new granddaughter so this is something I whipped out real quick.. This one is welded from a mix of 1095, L-6 and a bit of meteoric iron thrown in ..8 1/4" Maiden Hair blade...Phosphor bronze mounts...Some of that bowling ball material for the fluted grip..This piece looks like a deep reddish maple burl! Turned out OK...at least I think so... The sheath is set with a 17.65 Ct star ruby.. cut this one myself.. All in all I think it didn't turn out too bad.. Hope the photos work... This one is website stock and is currently listed there... JPH
  5. 8 points
    Finishing this up for a friend. She wanted a seax with some Japanese flavour, and this is what I came up with. 7 1/2" blade, 1" wide and 1/4" thick at the break, 13" overall. Sculpted copper blade collar, buffalo horn fuchi and kashira with copper accents. Carved walnut handle in a take down construction secured by a copper pin. The blade needs a light buffing to brighten it, and I need to finish the sheath tomorrow, so I'll try and get some better pics then... let me know what you think...
  6. 7 points
    Hi all, here's another chef knife. This time with african blackwood and a mustard patina. As usual, thoughts and critique welcome
  7. 6 points
    When I first got interested in mustard patinas, I asked around how it was done and the answer I got was "you put mustard on the blade". While I understand it meant there was no wrong ways to do it, I was hoping for a bit more details . Now that I've done a few patinas and had A LOT of requests on how I get this stonewashed look, I'm going to give you the details in this short tutorial. This bladesport'ish blade was not intended to have a patina but it was the only one I had around that's large enough for a good demo. In case you wondered, it is 80CrV2 steel. This patina will work pretty good on any simple carbon or tool steels, as long as they don't contain too much nickel like 15n20 or L6. The nickel increases the steel's resistance to acid. So, what I first do is hand sand the blade to #800. It may not be necessary but I like how, after the patina is done, the blade is still shiny from a certain point of view and shows how good the finish is. After the blade is finished and cleaned with acetone or brake cleaner, I use these cotton pads to dab the mustard. Only a small amount of mustard is necessary. The thinner the layer, the darker the finish. I dab a LOT to get an even layout. Now is the time to let it dry. Wait at least 30 minutes. Then clean thoroughly in soapy water and dry. Here's what it looks like after just one layer. You may be satisfied and stop there or do a second layer for a darker and more homogeneous finish. Everywhere there was tiny mustard spikes is where the blade did barely etch and shows those lighter spots. Now a second coat. And how it looks after a good cleaning. I have found that applying a thin film of food grade mineral oil darkens the finish even further. It's not been applied yet on these photos. If you have any questions, please ask and I'll update the tutorial if needed.
  8. 6 points
    I finally bowed to the peer pressure of a friend and made him a chef knife. It is 88 layers of 1080 and 15N20 laddered with a bronze bolster, black G10 spacer, and a pretty stabilized Redwood burl handle. Caleb Royer did the picture. Anyhow, here is it. Let me know what you think gentlemen.
  9. 6 points
    Hi All Just finished, 3 Bar Seax, handle yew capped with sterling silver fittings, Total length 37.5 cm, blade 22.5 cm Richard
  10. 6 points
    Here's my latest. 6" 80CrV2 blade with the infamous mustard patina, micarta bolster and lacewood. Critique welcomed!
  11. 6 points
    This is kind of getting addictive. my 2nd and 3rd attempts at a slip-joint. I'm still pretty much just using Culver's design, but have been experimenting with using a pivot bushing, and how much clearance to leave to allow for a nice snappy action. I'll probably start taking more liberties with the overall design now. Both have blades from a mosaic bar I made for this purpose a few weeks ago, and nickel silver pins and bolsters. I still have much to learn, but each of these has been a significant improvement over the previous one. The first has stag scales and will be a birthday gift for my daughter's boyfriend. (Yeah I know, but he is a good guy and I really like him in spite of my fatherly instincts ) The second has jigged bone scales (I just bought the slabs already jigged), and is now my new EDC pocket knife.
  12. 5 points
    My goal with this was to make it look like a weapon from a museum, not a brand new one with a shiny blade. I dont know how well I succeeded in that. I'm guessing I am not fooling any curators any time soon. But overall, I like the look of it. The blade is mild steel with a spring steel edge. Somwhere between 55 and 60 rockwell according to my hardness testing files. I believe the haft is hickory, or maybe ash. Its from an old snow shovel. I stained the wood a deep ebony color, and the blade was given a very dirty sanding before antiquing it with a mix of strong vinegar and salt. I would have liked deeper pitting than I got, so I might redo the vinegar treatment later. I let it rust for about 4 days before lightly sanding the rust away. Total length: 168 cm or 66 inches. Blade length: 56 cm or 22 inches. Blade thickness: 4.8 mm, or 3/16 inches Haft length: 145 cm or 57 inches. Weight: 1930 grams or 4.25 lbs
  13. 5 points
    Finally got around to making my pastor a knife plus a sheath. The blade was forged out of a piece of 3/4" 60 grade rebar. Since he was in my shop when I forged the blade I thought I'd use the forging for his knife. Use a piece of curly maple that was saved out of the firewood rack and used some aluminum bronze that I aged. First sheath I made in several years and it turned out better than I expected. The knife is around 10" overall.
  14. 5 points
    "He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands and his head and his heart is an artist.”
  15. 5 points
    It seems like it is about time to start my folder for this kith. I initially wanted to do one of those cool slipjoints, but after some testing and broken drill bits I decided to stick to a friction folder, that will be hard enough for me. I have been working on a prototype, and it is now good enough to show here. This one is 1095 with copper scales, and I´ve done some carving on the handle. The hinge pin is steel, and the rest of the pins are copper, that didn’t blend in as nicely as I wanted. I’m thinking of going for brass pins on the “real’’ version, brass might also be a bit more durable. The knotwork is hand (hammer and chisel) engraved, something I really need to practise more. I think I will keep this one for myself, and I took the opportunity to test some belt finishes, I just got some of the trizact gator belts and I don´t know how I lived so long without them. I did some antiquing on the copper, this makes the engraving stand out, and also just adds some character, I think this little knife will look a lot better after some months in my pocket. The actual kith knife will be Damascus, as a stock removal monosteel blade just doesn´t compare to those awesome slipjoints people are building. So here Is a little teaser of how my Kith will look:
  16. 5 points
    Completing this 7.5" blade kitchen knife. I tried a simple handle design consisting of the reversed egg cross section shape and a rounded butt. It's very comfy but i am not sold to the style. What do you guys think? It's micarta and black walnut.
  17. 4 points
    So this was a first attempt, I see on Instagram that this type of knife is very popular so I wanted to take a crack at making one. its O1 tool steel with dyed and treated leather for a spacer and then gutted paracord for the crossover wrap and non gutted for the turks head knot. There are a few things I would do different with this one, the handle is a bit short, even for me, someone with larger hands would consider this a 3 finger type knife, and I narrowed the tang out a bit more then I should have considering I used gutted paracord for the main wrap portion so there is a thickness difference between the blade and the handle, but all in all I really like how it turned out, its nice and light in the hand, and falls perfectly into a reverse grip and feels like it was made to be used that way.
  18. 4 points
    Here's a look at my dagger after changing the pommel:
  19. 4 points
    Just finished this up. Made it at the start of the year but never got around to polishing the blade, and today a visitor saw it and wanted to buy it, so I said I'd get it finished for tomorrow. 3" blade with a wrought spine and silver steel edge, etched first in ferric then in coffee. Antler bolster with copper trim. Carved Yew Burr handle. let me know what you think...
  20. 4 points
    Since I haven't made one in several years I'm going to style my next after those of William Butcher of 19th century Sheffield but with a random pattern damascus blade. Here's one with a mono-steel blade that I made years ago. I may vary from it a little but this will give you a basic concept. The weather here today is pretty oppressive so I only got in limited shop time but did manage to get this one started. The damascus will eventually be 336 layers in a random pattern. The blackwood shown here will be the handle. I didn't have any 416 the right thickness for the front handle spacer so I milled a tang slot in what I had which will get cut in half, doubled, pinned & soldered.
  21. 4 points
    Hello, I forged this 7 3/4 inch long blade from a San mai billet I made with 200 layer 1084/15N20 sandwiching a piece of 80CRV2. It is 1/4 thick at the ricasso, flat ground with a convex edge. Makers mark etched on the blade spine. The guard and spacer are mild steel and gun blued. Handle is ironwood with a stainless pin. Sheath is 8oz leather with a beavertail hide overlay and hand stitched by yours truly. Price is $350 shipped. I am in Alberta, Canada. Please PM me and can send additional photos. Thanks, Clint
  22. 4 points
    Some quick iPhone pics to prove it so I can finally say this project is DONE! Summer gets crazy busy with almost no shop time but I eked out enough time to put on the finishing touches. I think I’ll try to get some good pictures and then these go to the intended recipients. Without further ado: Pretty proud of the result. Quite a few things I will tweak on the next go around. Always room for improvement. Hope you all enjoyed the WIP. Adam
  23. 3 points
  24. 3 points
    Made some more progress today with the jigs finallised and the first prototype sorted out. I had made a couple of boxes with mitered corners as it was quicker but will dovetail the actual boxes. I need to change the bearing from the 34 inch to 1/2 inch to suit my dovetail table. This is how it all needs to be done to get to the finished form. First I needed to decide how the items would fit in the box and to make it small enough to be practical while not making it too crowded. Draw onto thin board and cut out the patterns. From there I needed to transfer these marking to a jig board and add the stand off for the collar after checking that the cut out was still the right fit for the items. Because there had been a few failures with the jigs I ended up making a separate jig for each item although with the first collar having the 15mm standoff the cut outs ran into each other so it was necessary A few failures for the scrap bin And when it all came together I was abe to mock up the first box athough having to use a replica 1911 for now. I have made the cut out for the 1911 slightly oversize as it will have to accomadate most of the different makers offerings and I had to take this into account.
  25. 3 points
    Finished a small hunter, a small scramseax, and mostly forged out a short Messer in the vein of Pieter Bruegel's paintings. Normally I wouldn't forge in weather like what we've been having, but I volunteered to do demos at a summer festival
  26. 3 points
    Now we’re cooking on gas Hit 1300’c/2370’f with only the back covered no problem.
  27. 3 points
    Tree stuff! 2 handrails, they dont have the cap rails and labs tongues on yet, but I'll throw those on later today. They will bolt onto the side of a house and down a set of steps. The viney bits will get leaves tacked onto the ends to finish them off. I wanted to do a cooler design, but as always, the boss said it'd cost too much.
  28. 3 points
    My recently completed Nordic knife: 97 mm Scandi ground blade, cocobolo and ebony handle and peened brass bolster.
  29. 3 points
    Hello!! First off I totally DETEST grinding..it's boring and monotonous and just un-fun.. So I run my grinders to the point where grind time is minimalised.. And the Frankengrinder cuts everything..it doesn't care..steel, iron, bronze. wood...meat ..bone or anything else that it gets to chew on it'll do it!! Just have to be careful.. besides just about everything in my studio can get ya..some to the point you are FUBAR... So best keep your mind on what you are doing.. On the feathering in of the bevels..these are done free hand..Pretty much everything I do is freehand ..besides I was "taught" to grind by my great friend the late Robert Egnath...he ground more blades in a day than most folks do in a year..His personal record was 193 if I remember correctly... I have ground so many that it is second nature to get that nice transition... It's all practice..just like most other things.. Here's another one with that really shows the feathered in grind...finished this one yesterday.. JPH
  30. 3 points
    The customer on this one wants a Fairbairn/Sykes style dagger but has given me some artistic leeway on it. This being the case, I think that I will give it a damascus blade and probably a ribbed blackwood hilt with stainless fittings.
  31. 3 points
    Guess its been at least 5 years ago I bought the smallest pair of diagonal cutters at HF. The main purpose for getting them was with the hopes that I could make the cutting head smaller and also make the cutting edges sharper to tackle the armor plated toenails that come during the aging process. I was able to make the adjustments with the belt grinder and for awhile the toenails clippings flew all over the place. Now since having right shoulder surgery and then getting my right wrist fused the grip in my right hand has changed and the factory made handles were just to small on my cutters. Finally got around to making the adjustment.Now to add a light and some magnification.
  32. 3 points
    This is what I've been working on for pretty much the last 3 months. It's probably the most difficult piece I've ever made, but I think I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out - it's not perfect, but honestly I think it might be my best work to date. It is based of a ballock dagger in the Smithsonian, though I took some liberties with the design. The blade is about 10 1/2" of 1095, clay hardened . It has quite a complex geometry, with the raised back edge and hollow ground 'flat', and has been given multiple etching cycles in FeCl for a deep French Grey look. The guard is forged and carved from 200 year old wrought iron, deeply etched and oil blued for a glossy black finish, and is framed by sculpted copper spacers (fitting those was no picnic...). The handle is made in three parts from a single red deer stag's antler, carved and pierced to show the twist forged tang within, and finished with shellac. The pommel is again wrought iron with copper accents, and the pommel nut is carbon steel sculpted into a dogwood flower and heat blued. The scabbard is built up from layers of magnolia veneer, lined with felt and covered in waxed lamb skin, with black deerskin trim and a cold forged copper chape and suspension ring for the belt loop, which holds a carved bone wrench for the pommel nut. The scabbard houses a by-knife and spike, both clay hardened, with oil blued mild steel guards and copper spacers, with carved bone handles. Anyway, pics: And here's the original: there's also dozens of in progress pics on my facebook -https://www.facebook.com/jake.cleland.14 - , as I was documenting it for the customer, anyway, let me know what you think...
  33. 3 points
    Last night I forged a hunting knife for my boss and ground it today. Made a template of the drawing he liked, then forged pretty close to shape. And I rehandled the chef knife I made in a class because it was off center from the blade.
  34. 3 points
    Today was one of those days when I wasn't easily satisfied and decided to remove the pommel from one of my finished daggers as it just didn't make me happy. I'm not sure if this is a character flaw or just the artist being finicky but either way, the knife is getting a new pommel. To replace it I am going with more of a European look. I forged some 1/8" stainless in the petals of a flower. The round brass rod shown here will become the pistil of the flower once contoured to fit. I'll probably give the pistil some texture just to add a little extra pizzazz.
  35. 3 points
    Progressing: I've yet to do a lot of sand & polish but it's getting there.
  36. 3 points
    Oh, I can beat that... Jake, dude, I know what it took to do that, and even so I am floored. You've outdone the original, and that is not easy! You really leveled up on this one. I'm going to pin this so you'll stay on the front page for at least 90 days after the last comment, this needs to be seen by everyone who visits the forum.
  37. 3 points
    Finished last night. I probably should have sanded the handle down to 600 grit rather than a buffed finish.
  38. 3 points
    Not exactly in the shop, but I managed to sneak away from camp by myself this morning for a couple of hours on the river. Now we're just sitting around waiting for the brisket to be done. It's gonna be a good day!
  39. 3 points
    I just finished a little blade for a guy who had a dream of making his own knife... So I cracked - and forged him this one. The one and only non-mounted blade I'll ever sell. Anyhow - thought it might be of interest to have a peek. Didn't do any fancy photo-shoot for this one, so it's a single mobile phone picture only... The blade is about 13cm long, and 3,something wide. 3,5mm thick. The pattern welded steel is made from an old sawmill blade and 15n20 for contrast. The edge is Øberg steel. Initial hardness after hardening and anealing for 3 hours was 63 HRC. Took me quite a few aditional hours to get it down to around 58... But here we are, all finished and polished up! Anyhow - time for summer vacation and motorcycle tour through the rest of Europe. fixing up my workshop with new benches, shelves, lighting and stuff - and then it's back to new and exciting projects after the summer!
  40. 3 points
    Hi, I'm new here and new to knife making. I had been considering having a go at making knives for some time so a couple of months ago I jumped into it. I'm absolutely hooked! I've used O1 for these blades and recycled/native wood for handle scales. These are my first three knives. My first attempt is a general purpose hunter or camp knife with a 4" blade and recycled Teak handle. The next two I built simultaneously. The largest one I built for my workmate who wanted something to stick wild pigs. It's a 7" blade again with Teak handle. The smaller tanto style knife is a utility/EDC with 4" blade and recycled NZ native Matai wooden handle and sheath. I've already gained a lot of valuable information from the forums here, so thank you all very much.
  41. 3 points
    Thanks guys. Finally finished this today...
  42. 3 points
    Hello ya'll. I've not posted much here, but have been reading a good bit. Since I've asked a couple of questions and received GREAT helpful answers I decided to show my attempt at Damascus. This is my very first Damascus attempt, and is nowhere near what you experts do. I stand in awe of the patterns ya'll do. I have done a few San Mai billets and blades. I forged up the Damascus billet, and finished the knife for the wife. This is a low layer count, 11 layers of 1095 and 15N20 with a .003" thick layer of pure nickel between each layer of carbon. I drew it out flat and I think I lost a couple of layers due to scale build up. I can't see as many layers as I put in it. Final thickness on blade is .100" at bolster with a distal taper to point. This is my very first Wa type handle - just wanted to try one. Wood is stabilized curly maple with African Blackwood. The wife wanted brass bolster and spacer, so that's what she got. I drilled a 5/16" hole thru the Blackwood, brass spacer, and into maple and epoxied a wooden dowel to provide some strength. With the tang going thru I suspect the wooden dowel isn't needed. Remember, this is a first attempt! Here is one of the San Mai blades I did for a SlipJoint folder. At this point the folder has really nice action and solid "Walk 'n Talk" without being a "nail breaker" to open. Posting photo to show the San Mai, and blade still needs some cleaning up before final assembly. Also got to finish the liners and mammoth ivory scales.
  43. 3 points
    I finally got time to watch this, and I have to say THANK YOU DAVE!!! Everyone needs to watch this (turn the sound up so you can hear what Dave is asking). It is at the heart of what makes this forum what it is, even though it has changed (as things inevitably do) over time, the core principles are still here. I miss having Don and Jake and Peter and Petr around on a daily basis, but I understand. When this video was made, Don had been retired for a couple of years and the Fiery Beards (as he called us) had taken over. We have faded into the background to some extent, and I haven't made anything worthy of the name in some time, but the fire is still here. Gather round and warm up, y'all!
  44. 2 points
    First of all, thank you gents....once again. My dad always said "met geweld kan jy jou vinger in jou hol af breek"......using force you can break off your finger in your a-hole So less force, chalk and the angle thing......that all worked. I'll still get RSI's, but my physiotherapist is a very pretty German girl, many others consider her a sadist, but I think she hurts good, so it all works out!
  45. 2 points
    Here is a few pictures of the U-505
  46. 2 points
    North Carolinian's do take their BBQ seriously
  47. 2 points
    Spent a humbling few days this week trying to forge a double bit throwing axe. It's built up of multiple pieces of angle iron and leaf spring which I riveted together cold before forge welding it all together, with the idea that the rivets would prevent the welds from shearing as I forged down the edges. Unfortunately I don't have any tongs which would grip it in front of the eye, so the eye deformed with every hit, the welds sheared anyway, , and every time I welded it back up, the corners of the eye got stretched and thinned and the rivet holes stretched and deformed and tore, and the eye would collapse in on itself and need to be opened up again and the whole sh*tshow would start over again on the next heat, The upshot being that the blades are way too narrow and thick, it's ugly as sin, there are some dodgy looking welds and tears around the eye, and the eye itself is basically a disaster. I'll maybe be able to work the eye cold into some kind of better shape, and if the welds hold up to that, they should be strong enough, but this was not an unqualified success... Ps. I tried to post this earlier in hot work, but it doesn't seem to have shown up, so apologies if this posts twice...
  48. 2 points
    Hey, you left out Droolin'
  49. 2 points
  50. 2 points
    Awesome Gary, but that is your middle name, Gary Awesome Mulkey!!
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