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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Hello everyone, The last month or so I have been working on a Damascus hunting knife with a stabilized beech handle. Since I am taking pictures for my Instagram account anyway, I figured it would be nice to post this on the ‘’old fashioned’’ forums as well. For this hunting knife I am going for a more traditional design than I would normally do, this is a ‘’simple’’ drop point hunter with a guard and hopefully a takedown handle. On this knife I really want to focus on my fit and finish, normally one of my weaker points in knifemaking. As I normally make historically inspired knives doing a modern knife comes with a lot of firsts and I have really enjoyed working on it so far. For instance: this is the first time I’m trying sweeping plunges, a takedown design or working with stabilized wood. I went through several different designs and did a lot of tweaking to get this knife exactly where I want it. Carbon tracing paper is a huge help in trying out different handle shapes. The blade material is 450 layer random pattern Damascus, the steels are O2 and 75Ni8. To test if the grind lines I’d drawn were actually possible I ground a test knife out of mild steel, the plunges turned out to not be as difficult as I had feared. The mild steel also made a great template to use when forging. Normally I would forge closer to shape, but I didn’t want to risk a stray hammer blow messing up my plunges. After a bit of grinding I heat treated the blade to +- 61 Hrc and tempered the spine and ricasso back with a torch, this gives extra toughness and also allows me to file in my tang shoulders very precisely. I tend to do most of my grinding post Heat treat, the O2 is deep hardening enough and with fresh belts there is not much risk involved. After the knife is ground, I start on the fittings, there is a guard and two spacers, the middle spacer is bronze I cast myself and the other is mild steel. The spacer assembly is held together with drilled and reamed pins, a bit of extra work, but it makes alignment very easy. A threaded piece is silver brazed to the tang, I made a bronze nut for it on my lathe to keep the entire assembly together. This allows me to pull the knife apart as many times as I want, when the knife is finished this will make re-finishing a lot easier also. The handle is made from spalted beech wood, this stabilized wood is very nice to work with, and just needs a buff to get to a nice shine. The only downside is that it really stinks when grinding. From here on it was a lot of boring polishing to get the surfaces good enough. The last thing is sharpening and making a leather sheath, and it is time to take some pictures with an actual camera.
  2. 8 points
    Hi all, I have just joined here but been reading and browsing for quite a while. I've been making knives for around half a year now, with this being number ten (and eleven), but this is my first big one that isn't a simple little eating knife so wanted to share. This is 15th/16th century German style Bauernwehr, I say style as it is not copied from anything in particular and i'm sure there will be something i have not done quite right, but I hope it looks the part. I have done this as a three piece set in the manner of medieval hunting sets, so there is a little byknife and pricker too. The blades are forged from 1075+cr (bauernwehr) and 1080 (other two), with mild steel fittings and yew handle scales. The sheath is multi pocketed to hold all three pieces, and has tooled vine decoration and a simple fabricated steel chape. The whole point of this was as an experimental learning process really so I tried to pick a knife with as many new things as possible. Probably took much longer than it should have done but I am pleased with the final result and lots learnt for the next one. Any critiques much appreciated as I am very new to this and finding my way a bit, I hope you like it! Cheers Alex
  3. 8 points
  4. 7 points
    Blade--W1 Handle--Desert Ironwood Guard--300 layer Damascus w/ivory inlay & clam shell knuckle bow Fittings--416
  5. 7 points
    Been working on a blade for the past few days. It's a 9 1/4" 9 bar serpent core dagger - silver steel edges with a serpent of alternating 15n20 and 11 layer twist set in mild steel: I'm making it to fit this handle I've been working on, carved from sycamore: it's been pretty fun so far...
  6. 7 points
    A sad day. I finished this . . . no project to work on in quarantine now. So, the hell with this: I'm driving to Alaska. I start tomorrow. I just bought a 5th wheel camper and got diesel truck to tow her. Should take me 12 days. Wish me luck crossing the US/Canada border. They have closed it, but rumor has it they are letting Alaskan's through if they can prove they are residents. I'll post some photos. The handle on this one is copper, African Blackwood, moose antler, and more copper. Hope you guys like it. Dave
  7. 7 points
    My latest Sgian Dubh, Pattern welded blade approx. 450 layers, bone handle capped with Sterling Silver fittings and pins and set with a New Zealand Greenstone (Nephrite) Total length 20 cm, Blade 10.5 cm. Scabbard leather and Sterling Silver. With special thanks to Maisie who cleaned up the bones.
  8. 7 points
    I am not sure how it was I got away from this forum. Lots of travel with work, time on social media and spending the last couple of years developing anti-scale and hamon clay. Anyway, more back into making blades. The name for this is a bit tongue in cheek I admit. Kind of a hit with the local crowd. Composite picture of one knife/sword. Loosely based off of a type of Yanagi-ba. 18" blade W2 steel Single bevel Hollow back Saya-European yew and desert ironwood Hamon Oiled leather sheath for saya
  9. 5 points
    Just finished this up, another of the plain kitchen knives I make for friends and locals. *" blade, through hardened Cs70 with a differential temper, 2mm on the spine, tapering to 1.5 at the break, S ground, with an etched and buffed scotchbrite finish, bubinga scales and copper pins: let me know what you think...
  10. 5 points
    Rear spacer done. For those who watch this and wonder how the texture is done on the copper, it's by peening with a small rounded punch.
  11. 5 points
    Just thought I'd add an update with pictures of the knives mounted in their new home and the first meal they prepared.
  12. 4 points
    I'm on day 27 of not leaving my property. Thank god I've got a blade project to putter with. Here is a blade I just finished grinding/etching. I started it up in Alaska last Summer and mailed it down to FL for the post heat treat work. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Twisted crushed W's make up the alternating bars under the fuller. Edge bar is a san-mai type w/ a 1000 layer core and 200 layer wrapping. Some highlight stripes between the bars. More when the fittings and grip are applied. I'm not going to rush, however. It's the only blade I have to work on, so once it's done I'm stuck w/ just mowing the lawn and pushups for entertainment. OAL is around 16" Anyone recognize this blade shape? It may seem familiar. Grins, Dave
  13. 4 points
    Kind of a big honesuki in 80CRV2 with ebony and stabilized maple burl. One of four I"m making for some friends who have never had decent kitchen knives. :P
  14. 4 points
    I watched this video on wire wrapped handles on "That Works" youtube channel, and the jig he uses is so brilliantly simple, I just had to make one myself. I've done wire wrapped handles before, but this jig, and the toothpick trick he uses makes it SO much easier.The brilliant thing with this jig is the little ratchet wrench you mount on it which only lets the handle turn one way, so you can keep tension on the wires easily. Here is my first attempt at using the jig. I used 0.5 mm steel wire, and 0.6 mm copper wire.
  15. 4 points
    Hey all, just finished up this one and wanted to share. I don't do many hollow grinds but tend to love the look, and with my first time trying domed pins, I don't think it turned out half bad! Now to the next project... a folder. Thanks for looking!
  16. 4 points
    The newest puukko: Blade is 100 mm x 20mm , peened nickel silver front bolster and polished rear end cap with cocobolo and ebony handle with boiled linseed oil finish. The blade has a 2mm bevel on each side of the 2mm spine. The blade was polished to 800x then gray Scotch Brite finish.
  17. 4 points
    Just finished these today. Made a couple of billets recently and needed to see what they looked like!Both handles inspired by William Scagel, obviously not faithfully but in spirit anyway! 1) Blade 4" 160 layer random damascus of 1084/15N20/W1 forged to shape and hardened to RC60.Bronze guard, handle red G10, bronze, stainless, leather spacers and antler fork.2) Blade 4 1/4" 160 layer inverted random damascus of 1084/15N20/W1 also forged to shape and at RC60.Stainless guard, handle black G10, copper, stainless, leather spacers and antler crown.
  18. 3 points
    Small game in 12c27 with eucalyptus over micarta Mini bullnose with matai on the 1084 blade. bullnose skinner with ss bolster, buff horn and ss spacers with tassie blackwood on the 1084 blade. Safari knife with gidgee over ss on 1095
  19. 3 points
    Hello, my name is Maciej Tomaszczyk I am from Poland.This is my first post here but I registered in 2011. I am not a professional blacksmith. Blacksmithing is my passion. The most I like to forge ancient and early medieval replicas of spears and axes. Sometimes I use for it bloomery iron I smelting my own. In my works I try to use the same technics as ancient blacksmiths. Bellow same of my Viking age spears. If you have any questions about the technology I used, feel free to ask. pattern-welded spearheads based on the archeological finds (early medieval) from northern Poland. Replica of earlymedieval spearhead from Lutomiersk (Poland). Entirely forged from scrap metal, in the core i used T-55 tank cannon, old steel rail and wrought iron wagon axle. Pattern welded spearhead, based on the find of the spear from Ostrów Lednicki (Poland). The total length of the replica is 50 cm. max. width 4.5.
  20. 3 points
    Since I have to haul all my tools out of the garage to forge in the driveway. I had to figure a way to keep my tools handy while working and be able to store when done. I made a folding rack that keeps my tools in one place and can fold up for easy storage. Just put tools in a bucket for storage. Hope someone in the same situation finds it handy. The frame is 1” angle and the cross members are 1.5” x 1/4. They are drilled out on the end 7/8 to go around 1/2 pipe with 1/2 all thread through and bolted to frame. The other end is 7/8 but cut out at an angle on bottom to connect to other end. You can see that in one of the pictures. Pipe and all thread can be used for the pivot and other end but I had rod with threaded ends already.
  21. 3 points
    Hi all, been a while since i was last here. been a difficult first half of the year and hope all are well. heres a picture dump of what ive been up to. recently, Ive been on a slipjoint craze. love making them, theres a whole other dimension with the fit and action. thanks for looking!
  22. 3 points
    Bruno: The forum belongs to us all. Don Fogg created it, and he made it clear that he wanted it to continue in the spirit of joint ownership by the Bladesmithing community. Legally, I guess, I own it, because Don had to give over financial responsibility to someone. I don't feel that way, however. I've had several offers to purchase it from investors, given our very large traffic, and offers to advertise on it to make revenue, but I've turned them all down because that's not what this place is about. In the event of my death my estate will continue to pay for the forum until it's formally transferred to another admin who has generously offered to take over if I get an anvil dropped on my head (not as unlikely as it seems in our profession, right?) In terms of a digital archive: That would be tough, I think, since the content is in a database that is formatted for this particular forum software. Niels would know more about this than me, but it does occur to me that the Wayback machine at Archive.org auto archives a lot of the interent. Perhaps it backs up our forum? At any rate, we're going to keep this thing going for a long, long time. Don't worry. We'll be here. Dave
  23. 3 points
    I have had six Puronvarsi blades for the last couple years and decided it was time to do something with the remaining five. The Puronvarsi 120mm x 23mm blade was reworked to make all grinds true and the 800x satin finish was buffed with gray Scotch Brite.. The bolster is nickel silver with a peened finish. The padauk handle has a ebony spacer and the butt end is slightly convex. Simple, utilitarian and comfortable in hand. More to come.
  24. 3 points
    Hi Guys, I was sitting on my back deck today and was having a creative conflict. I know I have a Seax sheath to finish and was doing some research to get inspiration for that but instead I became distracted with some very cool examples of the smaller broken back Seax and decided to fire the forge. I started with a sandwich of 1075, 15n20 and 1075 and forge welded it together. I then cut grooves in that billet with my bur grinder and did the same on an old post drill shaft. Then I cut a thin strip of 15n20 and did the most dodgy stack ever created as you can clearly see. Anyhow despite that I set the welds and forged out the blade. (Blade is about 5 inches) complete with messy borax scale. More to come as time permits.
  25. 3 points
    A batch of knives under the brood light. As we are getting well down in temps with some heavy overnight frosts I have the brood light going over them overnight for the epoxy to cure. Finally able to get some knives handled for some very paitent customers. I have had concience problems with this taking so long but should be able to go back to my max 6 week order to delivery time frame now that things are running again. I was talking to Jason last night (the wood guy in Texas) and he sent a pic of one of the big pieces of Amboyna burl he is about to cut up so I asked him to put a 4 nice blocks asside for me. It is so nice that I may just get another couple as well.
  26. 3 points
    Alright, so I got tired of working with leather, and got tired of forging my new blade... so.. arrow-head! Figured I might need to forge some of these in the future if the apocalypse proves to be imminent... Just for fun. Chiao!
  27. 3 points
    I prefer the original Orange flavored tang, but the Grape and Mango are good too. (Sorry, it's one of those days...)
  28. 3 points
    Found yet another use for @JJ Simon monkey tail tongs. Perfect thing for reheating my lunch while waiting for a billet to come up to temp. Even this chain store pizza tasted better after being toasted over the dragon's breath. Ok, this is probably a terrible idea, but that pizza will probably kill me before some forge pollution.
  29. 3 points
    Hey y'all, just finished the first knife that I've ever taken all the way to completion. I've had a couple others that broke, and I have a couple others that are almost done, but this is the first I've finished. I forged it from an old cold chisel, on an anvil made from a 12# sledgehammer head set into a stump It's and integral harpoon point, with a through tang. Not sure what the wood is, maybe cocobolo, it's been kicking around my shop for years. Copper and leather spacers, and a steel buttplate. I drew heavily on advice from you guys throughout the process, so thanks a lot! Learned a lot that I'm going to apply to my next blades. I'm gonna go back and sand it some more, there's some scratches and whatnot that I missed, but overall I'm reasonably happy with it.
  30. 3 points
    Hello.. Just got this one finished..this would of gone to RPFS out in California.. but since that is not running this year..on the website it goes... 22" long blade..hugs and kisses pattern in 1095, L-6 and some meteoric iron with full length fuller each side...forged and file worked phosphor bronze mounts and some of that bowling ball material that I happened to stumble upon a while back that I fluted for the grip.. Sheath is mounted in phosphor bronze and has a gem quality carnelian inset on the throat.. At least I am starting to get caught up on some things I got behind on thanks to this idiotic shutdown..but I am still dead for 2020 as far as shows go.. Sigh.. Hope the photos work.. JPH
  31. 3 points
    Hi just shearing this viking ship inspired axe.
  32. 3 points
    First a little clay.. then heat treat. Went without incident. Into the oven at 400 for a bit and then I’ll see if I can’t finish it up tomorrow.
  33. 3 points
    I'm pretty sure that's a Jersey pattern Emerson & Steven's Co. Axe. Here is a video on how they were made.
  34. 3 points
    DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers. DROP SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. ADJUSTABLE WRENCH: aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted buckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity. This is a mutation of a column written by Peter Egan and published in Road and Track back in 1996. http://www.dinosaursandrobots.com/…/tools-explained-by-do-i… )
  35. 3 points
    All that's left of the final assembly is to put in the pins that hold the spring in place and hold the scales on. I make those pins the same way as before, but try for a bit larger head. I also have to taper the ends generously because the spring holes won't line up with the scale holes due to the pre-load on the spring. The taper helps push the spring into the loaded position, but you have to be careful because the nickel silver is so soft that it is easy to bend the pin. Here is what it looks like now. All I have to do is file down the pivot pin so that it is flush with the bolsters, and then do the final polishing of the bolsters, and any scuffed up areas.
  36. 3 points
    So back in 11/2018 I had a demonstration to do and I decided it was a Felling axe that my sights fell on. It was the last demo of the year and all ready had snow on the ground. My buddy Scott came around to help with sledge.. We got the mandrel done and 1/4 the way to a finished axe before he had to boogie. Fast forwards to 5 days ago and my desire to to finish the Axe.. I am about 96% happy with it.. I am not a fan of any hammer marks nor scale left on the work if it was designed in my mind. About 8hrs, all hand work.
  37. 3 points
    Got this blade tempered, final ground and etched yesterday. It's a crushed W's billet that I laddered and then drew out widthwise. My friends and family have requested that I dub the pattern "Reaper Damascus". Materials are 1080 and 15N20; I'll be putting black paper micarta scales on the handle today.
  38. 3 points
    Phones going really slowly.. but I think this is the rest of the pics.. thanks for looking! love to hear what you think! -Justin
  39. 3 points
    Well I have had some great success and learned some lessons with this. I am very happy and not so happy With this blade. Good thing is I know exactly where I went wrong and what to do next time. Pros - I am happy with the blade geometry. The welds were spot on. I got a cracker heat treat. One side of the blade pattern was exactly what I was hoping for. Cons - The other side of the blade pattern is not exactly what I was hoping for. Where I went wrong - I chose to do a san mai stack for the lower part of this blade but even though I forged it to the blade geometry I was after I did not take into account the thin layers of 1075 sandwiching the 15n20 were not forged even and when it came to final grind I lost the contrast I was after due to the uneven distribution of my san mai layers. If I was doing this again instead of 3 layers I would have gone for 12 or more or stuck with a solid bar of 1075 instead of the same mai. Anyhow I have learnt heaps from this which is what it’s all about and hopefully it may also be of help for someone else. Now....All I have to do is make a kick arse handle to hopefully redeem myself
  40. 3 points
    And after cleaning all the errant dings out of the other two spacers. . And after buffing the edge of the guard.
  41. 3 points
    Essentially yes Brian but a rough dodgy way of going about it. My aim here was more to get a wavy line through the blade rather than a tooth pattern hence the wavy grooves and 15n20 between. If I was going to do a wolf tooth I would take more care in cutting and matching up the teeth bringing them to points rather than curves. I would also make more contrast in the steels like a twist or multi layer bar etc and I would not put the layer in between. I have a plan for a toothy blade in my head. Anyhow quench/ heat treat went well and I got a bit of a glimpse of the worm in the weld. Now to go through the grits and etch.
  42. 3 points
    Thanks Gary, good luck with your project. Did a rough grind before heat treat tonight. Boy an overnight soak in vinegar and a new belt makes such a difference.
  43. 3 points
    Thanks Brian and Alan I applied two coats of alcool diluted Fiebings brown leather die with sanding in between. Then a first coat of TruOil. Now I think it looks very much like light maple syrup. On a side note, this is the first time I completely finish a handle before it's glued on the tang.
  44. 3 points
    A scrap of damascus, a bit of buffalo horn and an elk tine, about as long as my finger. G
  45. 3 points
  46. 3 points
  47. 3 points
    Another round of filing on that frame vine work. I never know how thin to take this pattern. I have done it really thin, and I have left it more like this. It still needs a little work on the second side anyway. What do you guys think?
  48. 3 points
    I narrowed the guard to better match the ricasso.
  49. 2 points
    Good morning, afternoon, etc all. Here it is where I decided to stop. The tan dye turned out quite a bit darker than I hoped, but it's been a while since I've used it. I'm glad I didn't use the brown. I'm going to use it for a while before I make a new one to clean up all the flaws. Thanks for the help.
  50. 2 points
    Speaking as a long-time hammer owner with flat dies, I find it easier to use the flats with hand-held tooling to do things like shoulder, draw faster, etc. Bevel dies especially put a huge stress on your guides. A hand-held or, better yet, bolt-on spring fuller-type bevelling set doesn't stress the guides, but you do have to watch as it will tend to shoot the hot steel across the shop. Flat dies are not true flats, they are dressed like a hand hammer face or pocketwatch crystal, i.e. flat in the middle and radiused at the edges. Simple spring fullers work great under a power hammer, as do short butchers and hot cuts and flatters. Just keep them short, like 12mm or less, with handles welded on sideways to minimize the risk of shooting the tool across the shop. Look up John Rigoni on YouTube, he does great stuff with bolt-on and handheld tooling under a chinese air hammer. Mechanicals do fine too, you just don't usually get as much room between the dies.
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