Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    When I first got interested in mustard patinas, I asked around how it was done and the answer I got was "you put mustard on the blade". While I understand it meant there was no wrong ways to do it, I was hoping for a bit more details . Now that I've done a few patinas and had A LOT of requests on how I get this stonewashed look, I'm going to give you the details in this short tutorial. This bladesport'ish blade was not intended to have a patina but it was the only one I had around that's large enough for a good demo. In case you wondered, it is 80CrV2 steel. This patina will work pretty good on any simple carbon or tool steels, as long as they don't contain too much nickel like 15n20 or L6. The nickel increases the steel's resistance to acid. So, what I first do is hand sand the blade to #800. It may not be necessary but I like how, after the patina is done, the blade is still shiny from a certain angle of view and shows how good the finish is. After the blade is finished and cleaned with acetone or brake cleaner, I use these cotton pads to dab the mustard. Only a small amount of mustard is necessary. The thinner the layer, the darker the finish. I dab a LOT to get an even layout. Now is the time to let it dry. Wait at least 30 minutes. Then clean thoroughly in soapy water and dry. Here's what it looks like after just one layer. You may be satisfied and stop there or do a second layer for a darker and more homogeneous finish. Everywhere there was tiny mustard spikes is where the blade did barely etch and shows those lighter spots. Now a second coat. And how it looks after a good cleaning. I have found that applying a thin film of food grade mineral oil darkens the finish even further. It's not been applied yet on these photos. If you have any questions, please ask and I'll update the tutorial if needed.
  2. 9 points
    Some people might remember my first "Seax knife" that was actually a tanto... This is my second atempt, much better considering I sharpened the right side this time. My grandparents wanted something to display on the mantle, I thought this one would do nicely. The blade is 1080 and 15n20, with a brass guard, elk antler spacer with black fiber gaskets, and brazilian ebony. Overall length is 8 1/2", with a blade length of 4". I made this in master bladesmith Audra Drapers shop, under her close supervision. Hope you all enjoy.
  3. 9 points
    A recent piece of work. A pattern welded tomahawk with a 5 bar construction with each bar having 14 layers. The cutting edge is approx 500 layers. The edge is 2 1/4" and the head is 6" long.
  4. 8 points
    I have been playing with patterns...I took an iron jewelry class with Janos Gabor Varga earlier this year ( a great class) and it got me thinking about some patterns...a bit of experimentation and a few cockups later this came along! Helter skelter pattern... what do you recon?
  5. 7 points
    Here is yet another folder from me. This is the 5th one, and I am finally starting to get the hang of it. Another dozen or so, and I may actually get good at it. I've been using the same basic design, and focusing on making mechanical adjustments. The last few have all had pivot bushings to keep the knife from tightening up too much as I peen the pins. I made this bushing from A2, but the first couple I made from bearing bronze. I've also been fine tuning the process of peening the pins so that they disappear in the bolsters. I'm pretty happy with the action on this one, and plan to start making my own design for the next one. I'm liking the old-school aesthetic these have, and am leaning towards a Coke-bottle, or Barlow look in my sketches. If I have any success with my own design, I'll do a WIP and share the mechanical design details.
  6. 7 points
  7. 6 points
    Copper Chasing and Repousse for Tea Tool - Chinese Called “茶则 " Cha Ze If you are interested, and want to know what is the Chinese Cha Ze ( Tea Tool ) , i will explain it more here. What's more, long time not be here. much miss you here. The below photo just for show you how will the Cha Ze use. Any input please.
  8. 6 points
    No, this isn't the new normal for me. It just so happens that the last two knives happened to be chef knives. Ah well. I am sure it will be back to normal with the next few knives. Anyhow, here is it is. It is a Santoku, and I am a fan of the blade shape. It was directly inspired by a knife made by a good friend, David, who has been my go to guy for chef knife advice. Blade is differentially heat treated 1075, with Tasmanian Blackwood for the handle, and G10 pins and liners. Blade is 6.5 inches, and the handle is a hair over 4 inches for a total length of 10.5 inches. I hope you guys like it.
  9. 6 points
    I thought I might share a recent collaboration I did with Matthew Berry. If you are unfamiliar with his work he makes absolutely wonderful European swords and other historical blades. Matt and I wanted to do something that was totally outside of either of our wheel houses and I think it came together beautifully. I was responsible for the blade with a tight Turkish twist damascus, Matt did the the all of the bronze work and gem setting, and I did the final shaping and finishing on the fossil ivory handle. What do you think? -Robert
  10. 6 points
    I wholeheartedly agree. My standard answer when someone asks how long it took me to make a fancy pipe hawk is "oh, about twenty years so far. This particular one took a month of weekends, but the two hundred before that are what gave me the experience to do this one the way it is." If it's someone who agrees it's worth the price but then says they can't afford it, I just smile and say "neither can I, that's why I learned to make 'em."
  11. 5 points
    Just finished this up. Clay hardened 1095 with a coffee etch, sculpted copper habaki, steel guard, fileworked copper and steel spacers, hand carved bog oak handle, copper pin, hand stitched and tooled leather sheath with bowtie retainer and copper stud: let me know what you think...
  12. 5 points
    Just finished this one. 1095 with a steel guard, copper and bog oak spacers and a carved piece of gnarly burr elm for the handle: let me know what you think...
  13. 5 points
    One of the few blades I have forged so far, this one was purely for fun and out of curiosity(not a dreaded commission). Started as 1/4"x1.5x12" and ended up with a tad longer than 9" blade, 1.75" wide. The spine is just shy of 1/4" thick. 80CrV2 steel. Micarta Scales. Due to my poor forging skills and inexperience I had to cover up a mistake done at the ricasso. Good thing this blade wasn't intended in winning any beauty contest I find the last pic particularly interesting as the blade seems to disappear because of the reflection. All those finitiob hours paid of I believe. Please post any comment you have regarding the design, I went purely by instinct.
  14. 5 points
    I swear I'm going to turn out a blade before too long, but I had one more iron job I couldn't turn down. Some of us here had a vacation discussion recently and mentioned Cades Cove here in East Tennessee. Some of the descendants of the original residents have formed the Cades Cove Preservation Association and maintain a museum of Cove artifacts. They had recently obtained an antique bell and requested a functional stand be constructed for it so that it could be displayed and rang at homecomings and other events. I made the frame out of 1" square, forge twisted and arc welded joints. The wood was some old boards I had on hand. My daughter gave me a good plug on her blog. You can read more here if you're interested: https://www.jandrfarmstn.com/post/the-beauty-of-a-bell Don
  15. 4 points
    98 x 22mm blade cocobolo handle, ebony spacers, peened brass front bolster, and convex rear brass bolster.
  16. 4 points
    I needed another sign for my public shop to draw attention from another direction. Sometimes simple & to the point (no pun intended) is best so: Definitely the largest knife that I've ever made.
  17. 4 points
    I finally bowed to the peer pressure of a friend and made him a chef knife. It is 88 layers of 1080 and 15N20 laddered with a bronze bolster, black G10 spacer, and a pretty stabilized Redwood burl handle. Caleb Royer did the picture. Anyhow, here is it. Let me know what you think gentlemen.
  18. 4 points
    Finished this I think... i was gonna do some wire wrapping but i think it'd be too much. Thoughts?
  19. 4 points
    Here is one Knife I wanted to do for some time. I finished this a couple of weeks ago. i wanted a thick steel flat ground with distal taper and the point always shows you where it’s at, for control. I forged a piece of Aldo’s W2 and drew out the tang then shaped the poInt. The majority of the sanding was belt sanded at reserve angles, with 80 grit then 180 grit. The rest is hand sanded up to 800 grit. I use a piece of 3” wide glazed ceramic tile for hand sanding. The hardware is long round bar of genuine wrought. Although the wrought was drawn out over many heats to about 3/8” thick. I then cut, sanded and prepped each piece to fit 410 stainless in smaller proportions to the wrought, each also rectangular but progressively shaping to the round handle. I wanted a “real blued” look and chose Van’s gun blue which worked perfectly. The handle is a piece of Axis-deer antler, ( less pith & deeper white bone structure). I gave it a full 24 soak in hydrogen peroxide to clean it white before starting. Each 410/wrought is silver soldered together, then filed for spacing. The guard was forged and drawn out flat, then filed to shape. The “leaves” are finished with jeweler files. Once I had the guard slot fit to the tang, i did each of the other pieces fitting each progressively to each other and the tang. Finally I silver soldered each together. The tang extends into the pommel by way of a threaded join. I chose to add epoxy to make it permanent. I wasn’t sure how the bluing would show up on wrought, though initial test looked good. However, I am very pleased with the bluing results with only two applications the result is a pretty midnight blue. So I just wanted to share this with everyone. As time allows, the sheath will be finished. Right now, I’ll use black leather with an off white inlay lengthwise, final design pending.......All photos will come later. Gary LT
  20. 4 points
    One completed, one under way: I'm not sure if I will use ivory or bone for the inlaid escutcheons. I'll have to check my stash.
  21. 4 points
    Just recently finished up. Handforged 1080 blade @61 RC Stabilized and dyed curly maple, with copper bolsters.
  22. 4 points
    I have a theory that any decent, hand-made, knife is worth a minimum of $150 US. Damascus adds to the price as does file work and bling. Don't short sell these folders. The truth about pricing your work is this: If you don't think it's worth that much, nobody else will either. If anyone asks me why I think it's worth as much as I'm asking, my standard answer is "Because I made it. Who better to determine the value/worth than the guy who made it?"
  23. 4 points
    My goal with this was to make it look like a weapon from a museum, not a brand new one with a shiny blade. I dont know how well I succeeded in that. I'm guessing I am not fooling any curators any time soon. But overall, I like the look of it. The blade is mild steel with a spring steel edge. Somwhere between 55 and 60 rockwell according to my hardness testing files. I believe the haft is hickory, or maybe ash. Its from an old snow shovel. I stained the wood a deep ebony color, and the blade was given a very dirty sanding before antiquing it with a mix of strong vinegar and salt. I would have liked deeper pitting than I got, so I might redo the vinegar treatment later. I let it rust for about 4 days before lightly sanding the rust away. Total length: 168 cm or 66 inches. Blade length: 56 cm or 22 inches. Blade thickness: 4.8 mm, or 3/16 inches Haft length: 145 cm or 57 inches. Weight: 1930 grams or 4.25 lbs
  24. 4 points
    For very odd handles I suggest a moldable plastic....can fit an odd shape easily or resin can be held in the hand that will hold the tool and fit very closely when it hardens. The way to get an understanding on costs is to make many of the same item and gain experience, increased speed, efficiency, design understanding and if one can market the item then get a following for that sort of work. One could make a product line of objects and occasional "art pieces that feed the soul". Getting better at something comes with doing that something. Do keep in mind that just making good work is not and never was "enough" to succeed. Part of the issue with craft is that it usually deals with disposable income of the clients....if they do not "need" what you make then they must "want" want you make. I never encourage anyone to do knife making full time...metalworking is a viable trade as people need things from metal, but knife making is a small slice of the pie of metalworking.
  25. 4 points
    I do make more than just the Bowies that I post here. This time of year my damascus hunters don't seem to stay in the showcase very long as guys are starting to think about deer camp. Here are three that I've gotten started that were all made from remnants of damascus billets left over from making Bowies. Two are three hundred layer random and one is from some mosaic.
  26. 3 points
    Ready for final assembly (I'll grind & polish the butt cap after all is assembled & epoxied):
  27. 3 points
    Each of my nephews have recieved a knife for their 13th birthday, this is the latest. He has some scandinavian blood so I used that as a design influence. 1080ish steel, copper, deer antler, moosehide and cherry wood. His nickname is Moose so I wanted to use moose antler but couldn't find any close by so I put in a moose leather spacer .
  28. 3 points
    We try to protect our vital organs from anything hot or sharp. Its necessary...
  29. 3 points
    I didnt do this today, but I requested advice earlier here about this knife... does it need a buttcap? Made of silver, wrought, or damascus? I added silver wire btw.
  30. 3 points
    This is the first knife that i have made that is actually for me. It is going to become my EDC and hunting knife. This is also the first blade that i have used my new buffer on, and im happy with the results. 1080 steel with a pyinma burl handle, 304 stainless pins, and some simple file work around the tang. Nothing too fancy. About 3-1/2 inches of blade, 7 inches overall. Leather sheath will be coming soon. Let me know what you think.
  31. 3 points
    Some time ago I came back to a model of an axe found in Lipowiec (Southern Poland). I took some pictures during work and I'd like to show the tools I used to forge it. You can see them on the picture at the vice. Another picture shows an anvil, power hammer and coke forge and the mentioned vice on the right side. I also used mig welder and belt grinder plus angle grinder. Axes were forged of wrought iron and a strap of 80CrV2 on the cutting adges. They came out slightly different despite I tried to make them same One weights 402g (0.886 lb) another one weights 462g (1,018 lb). One was made for my cousin another just in case something went wrong. Luckily both are fine, so the heavier one will be put for sale soon. I showed on photos the momnets of upseting the bar for the beard - to make the nice flow of the wrought fibres.
  32. 3 points
    Hi Guys. I have been out and away in the wild places and thought I would like to share some photos. Would love to see any wildlife pics from your area and know what gear you use. I use a Canon 7D mkii and 80D and Tamron 150-600mm lens
  33. 3 points
    Wow its been a long time since I posted anything,but here is my last piece. Nothing major ,just a hunter for a friends son. Figured black walnut, with a bulls horn lanyard hole and wrought iron pins.First one with my etched logo. Made a decent sheath too.
  34. 3 points
    This showed up at my local guild meeting last Sunday, and I thought it was just too cool: The anvil is a 2" x 7" forklift tine and can be mounted skinny side up or flat side up. Note the fuller ground into the end of the skinny side. The vise jaws are not fixed, they can be removed and rotated to offer options like a header, a hardy clamp, two different opening widths, and so on. It has a pair of pivoting racks to hold flux, punches, etc. on the end opposite the vise. Plus it has horizontal hardy holes on both long sides and under the end that can hold bending forks, a cone mandrel, etc. The vise screw is just a length of 1" acme thread rod with a captured nut on one end of the framed. The other end of the screw rests in a little piece of pipe on the moveable jaw, and there is a little piece of brass acting as a wear plate in there (because Paul is just too cool!). The coil spring that opens the jaws is offset to allow up to a meter of length to be run through the vise jaws. And, with the wheel rather than the usual bar handle, the vise opens and closes FAST, and can't whack you in the tender bits like a normal vise handle. Spiffy, huh? All you need is a welder, but a bandsaw helps. Paul is a genius, btw. If you've got a copy of Francis Whitaker's "The Blacksmith's Cookbook," you may remember in the chapter on watering cans for the forge Francis showed a can with the holes up high on the side rather than the usual punctured bottom type that pours water all over everything, thus making a mess. He called it the "Tennessee Valve" after where he saw it. Paul is the guy who made it... Anyway, I thought this was a genius-level invention, perfect for demos and such as it's not too heavy and it can do anything a "normal" anvil and vise setup can do.
  35. 3 points
    Diced and glued together. Ready for a cleanup and start drilling holes
  36. 3 points
    Here is my latest kitchen ware. Not really meat cleaver. More Vegetable cleavers. Thin. Made of leaf spring in a feeble attempt to dwindle my collection. Forged these by hand since I broke my Power Hammer again. The wood is some sort of bamboo driftwood I think was salvaged off the Jamaican coast. Had it sitting for a while. Brass pins. Scratches on the big one are from chopping at desert stuff you'll never find in a kitchen. It passed. Let me know what ya'll think...
  37. 3 points
    Hello! Here I post a video about the armor that I do. This is an armor for historical medieval combat and reconstruction. I also sometimes make exhibits for museums and private collections. On the video there are both workflows, reviews of finished products, crash tests and everything related to the armor. Most videos are in Ukrainian and Russian, but I do subtitles. Kyiv, Ukraine ENGLISH Subtitles In this video, I make the medieval armet on based on two artifacts. They are the Italian sallet (which is what it says on the picture) and the visor which looks like it is german. Even though the source is the skull of the sallet, the right classification for this helmet - closed armet for the fight with clubs on foot. This is not historical reconstruction. Just a stylization of the helmet of the end of 15th century. The double visor of the armet used in the Medieval war and not in the tournaments was quite a breakthrough. With the top visor lifted the knight could see, breathe and hear good with the small part of the head uncovered. The grate visor is great for sports knight tournaments. It provides good breathing and vision.
  38. 3 points
    “If it weren't for the last minute, nothing would get done.” - Rita Mae Brown
  39. 3 points
    Last month's article in Blade Magazine talked about the recent popularity of 5" fixed bladed knives which inspired me to make a pair for the showcase. One here has a 336 layer random pattern damascus blade and the other a mono-steel blade of W1. Both will get handles of desert ironwood with 416 fittings. I got the first handle & guard roughed out before the summer heat today brought me to a halt. It has 10 to the inch checkering on the front of the handle with the back half being contoured. The guard is from 1/2" 416 stainless. The second will get a hilt similar to this but with ironwood:
  40. 3 points
  41. 3 points
    The knives the sheaths were hot waaxed this morning for. Pig sticker with fiddle back eucalyptus, Hunter Skinner and Light Hunter with Accacia in the first pic and a pair of Field scalpels with Buffalo horn in the second
  42. 3 points
    Dang it Joël! You're getting really good man! Professional looking blade! I carved today. Just need to do the other side of the handle to match and then inlay the silver wire wrap.
  43. 3 points
    Roughed out the handle for the "competition" blade a I had done the mustard patina demo on. Besides the weird ricasso area caused by a forging mistake I tried to cover up, I think I like this knife. Can't wait to try it!
  44. 3 points
    Hello everyone, its been a while since ive finished anything but ive been in a pretty good mood lately (usually) and im not dreading the huge amounts of time spent sanding that comes with making multiple knives at once. Im trying to make better quality stuff as well but it takes about four times as long because im not as good at this as im trying to be and im constantly trying different finishes or redoing something I messed up. There are a few knives here that still need to be glued and their pins need to be peened on but I really want to make sure everything is done before I do that, but those are pretty small steps that will be dealt with soon so I figured I would go ahead and share these. As is usual for me, im constantly fighting with technology so im stuck posting through instagram, im not super familiar with it so bare with me... This little knife was forged from 1/4" music wire, which is something like 1080/1095. Its a very slim three finger sized integral with a tapered tang and a concave distal taper, the handle is sepele with stainless pins. It has a few forging marks but ive only got a 10% or less success rate with mini integrals, you have to forge them near perfect. It has a 5 1/4" blade with a 3" handle. This next knife is forged 1080, it has a concave distal taper and a nice thin blade, the handle is mesquite with a stainless guard, steel pin, and copper spacers. There are pins going from the handle into the guard, I forget what those are called but they make the handle very solid. 5 1/4" blade and 4 3/8" handle. I really like this style of blade with no plunge at the ricasso. There are two knives in this post, hopefully you can click through them, if not I can take separate pictures to share them. First is a japanese fantasy hybrid thing, 1080 steel with a fuller and a dark vinegar patina, the blade is a little over 4 1/4" and a bit thicker than 1/8" on the flat but it tapers to a nice thin point, the handle is just under 4" the wood is ipe with a leather wrap and its got a copper spacer and minimal guard. Its sharp, it would be a fantastic little fighting knife, it has a zero edge with a convex grind and the handle wrap locks into my hand perfectly. I dont normally do the pancake sheaths but its okay, I prefer something slimmer. The second knife is another japanese fusion fantasy piece, but just barely, its almost more of a bowie. More 1080 steel with a concave taper, convex zero edge, steel guard with brass and copper spacers and pin. 6 1/5" blade and about 4 1/2" ipe handle, this blade is about 1/4" thick at the guard but it tapers pretty quick for 1/5ish of the blade then the taper mellows out before another quick taper near the tip, the concave taper is sort of like a flat taper but with more thickness at the base of the blade. Im going to flare out the brass tube in the pin hole and then peen the copper pin in that, ive done it before and it should look nice. The scabbard has a thin plywood core with a stitched and glued leather wrap and a friction fit frog. Thats it for now, I think I have a couple more to put up tomorrow.
  45. 3 points
    Had a good day in the shed today with the boxes all assembled and in the camps for the night. Then I made a start on the 1911 grips. I cut the knife handes and the grips at the same time from the same blocks to keep them as simiar as possibe A set each of ebony, walnut and curly macrocarpa. I had stabilised a pot full of blocks last week to make sure these were all given that extra protection against warping or shrinking. I glued the slabs together by taping each piece and putting a couple of spots of superglue between them so they are easy to take apart again. This made it easier to cut and sand them to the same profile as the sample ones I had I needed a way to hold them while shaping them so made a jig that works quite well. From here I used a 60 grit bet to rough in the curved surface and then made a scraper from a bar of 1075 and hardened it . I use the smaller side to check the top end and the larger curve to scrape it to shape. I did the curly macrocarpa set first as they have the most difficut grain to work with and I thought if I could get them right the others would be much easier. A bit more to go but pleased to get them to this stage. I have to try and source the correct counter bore bit to get the screw holes to the right diameter.
  46. 3 points
    Pinned! I'll even move it to Fit and Finish if you think it belongs there.
  47. 3 points
    Been working on this one for the better part of a month now. 6" blade x .040 thick HSS. The handle is Jarrah with African Blackwood bolsters and copper spacers an liners. This one is going for a fire department fund raiser auction so I decided to jazz up the blade a little bit with some electroplated plated copper. Comments and critiques are welcome as always. Let me know what you think. Alex
  48. 3 points
    Made some more progress today with the jigs finallised and the first prototype sorted out. I had made a couple of boxes with mitered corners as it was quicker but will dovetail the actual boxes. I need to change the bearing from the 34 inch to 1/2 inch to suit my dovetail table. This is how it all needs to be done to get to the finished form. First I needed to decide how the items would fit in the box and to make it small enough to be practical while not making it too crowded. Draw onto thin board and cut out the patterns. From there I needed to transfer these marking to a jig board and add the stand off for the collar after checking that the cut out was still the right fit for the items. Because there had been a few failures with the jigs I ended up making a separate jig for each item although with the first collar having the 15mm standoff the cut outs ran into each other so it was necessary A few failures for the scrap bin And when it all came together I was abe to mock up the first box athough having to use a replica 1911 for now. I have made the cut out for the 1911 slightly oversize as it will have to accomadate most of the different makers offerings and I had to take this into account.
  49. 2 points
    If I can get all the floor coverings done in my house I might be able to beg the wife to allow me to fire up the forge and make my KITH contribution.
  50. 2 points
    One trick I learned when I first got into muzzleloading gun making is to keep a separate set of files for use on non-ferrous metals. Never use those on steel and they will last a lot longer. Brass and bronze (and silver) are really sensitive to the sharpness of your files. I keep a couple of Grobet swiss-pattern files for that stuff. Once you file steel, it takes enough sharpness off the teeth they'll seem dull on non-ferrous metals. And aluminum is nasty. Gums up files and is almost impossible to clean out of the teeth. Pewter is gummy too, but at least it pops out when picked with a needle. Also, while wrought iron is a joy to file compared to steel, the slag can cause problems just like scale, as it's harder than iron. If you're filing on gnarly slaggy wrought or bloomery steel, expect to lose a few teeth. Luckily slag is very brittle and tends to turn to dust as it dulls your files unless it's a really big lump.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...