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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Hello: Just finished this one for book IV...what a nightmare this one was...the polish is deadly....cut myself a bunch of times but double edges can get yas.. Still it turned out OK I guess.. Not too bad for a broken down old man.. blade length 13 3/4"...1095 and L6 laminate... This one could really benefit from a pro grade polish.. A bunch of stuff going on in there... Hope the photos work JPH
  2. 8 points
    Hi all. So this is a knife my uncle commissioned from me for my cousins graduation. Steel is 5160, brass hardware, African blackwood handle. All on a through tang (but not take down) construction. And yes, the thickest "blocky" handle was intentional. My uncle "likes them chunky", his words not mine all in all, it's very comfortable in hand, indexs fantastically and my uncle is thrilled with it. Thoughts and critique, as always, are welcome.
  3. 7 points
    Best I can do for today! Needs more grind work, sanding, and heat treatment. I just couldn't resist getting an etch on it before shutting the shop up.
  4. 7 points
    Hi all, i don’t usually post work, at least not often. With the last KITH, I was inspired to do a couple of folders. Have not tried slipjoints for a long time and it felt good for a change. The first one is a coke bottle with nickel silver and blood wood. Yes my logo is too large and I am ordering a smaller stencil. I have a young grandson who has a birthday late November so this one goes there. The second one I really like, as I had a couple of small slabs of fossilized mammoth tooth for years. I think I got these at the Blade show, can’t remember. Being super careful not to crack or burn this stuff, the slabs are one. Pretty to me anyway. Nickel Silver bolsters. One pin is not nickel silver as I wanted to keep the pin smaller. Both blades are angled downward in the open position, so I need to work on that. But still functional and with snap.
  5. 6 points
    I got my live oak profiled today. I'll try to get the Spanish moss added tomorrow. The profile here is of 15N20 .065 bar. The leaves on the end of each branch are damascus as willl be the moss. This entire unit including the cardboard on which it is glued will go into a canister. I will then fill the inside of the tree with a 2% nickel powder to match the 15N20 and everything outside of the tree with 1084 powder .
  6. 6 points
    I decided to complete this puukko yesterday. Blade is 103mm x 24mm x3.5mm with a 600 grit satin and Scotch Brite finish. This blade was an early attempt prior to getting a vfd and new motor. It is not a rhomboid grind. The handle is black ash burl with ebony, padauk and redheart accents as well as brass bolsters. I had to use a flash for the photos; it is very dark and pouring this morning.
  7. 6 points
    So, I finished up that Turkish Twist knife commission. I also made a little video of the finished knife and sheath where I explain the symbolic elements in the designs.
  8. 6 points
    Thanks again Josh, I did another 3 etches and the pattern is much better. I will come back to it again once I have made the hilt and before I finally glue it in place. I have decided on Ironwood which grows in my area for the hilt. Here is my progress so far. As always any comments, critique, advice etc very much appreciated.
  9. 6 points
    Well I made it this morning for you so it will be in the package with the rest of the stuff I'm sending ya
  10. 6 points
    Just putting on the finishing touches on another blade made with a bar of double twists that I forged a while back.
  11. 6 points
    Howdy!! Something I whipped out for a show this next weekend... 28" long blade...welded from 1070, L-6 and some meteoric iron in my "Hugs and Kisses" pattern...full length fuller each side... Blackened Bovine ivory grip and phosphor bronze and buff horn guard and pommel plates... Didn't come out too bad... Hope the photos work.. JPH
  12. 6 points
  13. 5 points
    Hello everyone! I’m just posting this as a little sneak peak into the project I’m desperately racing to finish in time for blade show west, weekend after this. If you’ll be there, come visit me at table C12 and meet this blade. I’ll be posting a WIP and finished pictures with some more info, as soon as things settle a little bit. I’ve taken probably close to 100 hours of terrible video so maybe I’ll be able to squeeze 20 mins of acceptable footage out as well. Only time can tell. The sword is inspired by the art of more than a 1000 year spread of Celtic artifacts. More on that soon!
  14. 5 points
    If you continue to pay $3 for a bottle of Smart Water, it's not working...
  15. 5 points
    Peen block. Testing fitting, you can see the more subtle pattern of the pommel cap now after polishing back a little. I just want the idea of the pattern there at the end, not heavily etched. Ivory tends to pick up a lot of gunk when it's not polished. Final shape is getting there.
  16. 5 points
    i thought the handle needed a little something, so i went at it with a dremel, followed by filling with brazed in brass.
  17. 5 points
  18. 4 points
    Supposedly, this is now not going to happen again. I hope that's true. Thank you for your patience.
  19. 4 points
    So forged this at the last demo of the year. 1018 body and Rasp for cutting edge. 3/8X1.5X10" or so. Was bumped at the poll to 1/2" 4hrs for finish forged. forged, filed and ready for heat treatment. Haven't had time for that yet. And the photos of the last 3 demo's Hatchets. Each one forged at a demo. the handled one NEB, the black one no handle EAIA and silver Rutland Historical trades day. 20191019_160352.mp4
  20. 4 points
    I kind of like this little design. This one is cable & 1095 San Mai. Hollow ground with stainless bolsters and stabilized buckeye scales.
  21. 4 points
    It's been a busy year, and difficult to keep up with everything. Here's some of what I've been building. It's all 80CrV2 steel with various cord wraps impregnated with marine epoxy and sheathed in Boltaron. I like to focus on getting geometry, balance, and ergonomics right without playing around too much with materials. :D Apologies beforehand for the massive wall of pictures. Mini-parang. miniparang01 by James Helm, on Flickr Barong. barong01 by James Helm, on Flickr barong02 by James Helm, on Flickr Ko-katana. kokatana01 by James Helm, on Flickr kokatana03 by James Helm, on Flickr kokatana04 by James Helm, on Flickr Wakizashi. waki03 by James Helm, on Flickr waki04 by James Helm, on Flickr Sasquatch for scale. pose03 by James Helm, on Flickr Carcass splitters, two big, two small. carcasssplitter01 by James Helm, on Flickr carcasssplitter05 by James Helm, on Flickr carcasssplitter06 by James Helm, on Flickr Sasquatch for scale. carcasssplitter03 by James Helm, on Flickr Another barong. barong by James Helm, on Flickr An elvish forester's blade. forester by James Helm, on Flickr Snake chopper. snakechopper by James Helm, on Flickr Orange and black bush sword and companion small recurve. orangeset01 by James Helm, on Flickr A tenegre bush sword. tenegre01 by James Helm, on Flickr tenegre02 by James Helm, on Flickr A prototype for an upcoming project. Obviously not a cord-wrapped handle on this one, but TeroTuf slab handles with stainless steel flared tube rivets. ed01 by James Helm, on Flickr ed02 by James Helm, on Flickr ed03 by James Helm, on Flickr Taco Ninja for scale. ed04 by James Helm, on Flickr Another carcass splitter. carcasssplitter01 by James Helm, on Flickr A tiny tanto. tanto01 by James Helm, on Flickr Sasquatch for scale. carcasssplitter04 by James Helm, on Flickr A lamb splitter with TeroTuf scales. lambsplitter01 by James Helm, on Flickr lambsplitter02 by James Helm, on Flickr lambsplitter03 by James Helm, on Flickr Sasquatch for scale. lambsplitter04 by James Helm, on Flickr A small-ish camp chopper. campchopper01 by James Helm, on Flickr campchopper02 by James Helm, on Flickr A small-ish ginunting. ginunting01 by James Helm, on Flickr ginunting02 by James Helm, on Flickr Another small-ish camp chopper. campchopper03 by James Helm, on Flickr campchopper04 by James Helm, on Flickr And finally, a decent-sized bush sword that went to a good repeat customer. I could picture Professor Smolder Bravestone picking this up in the bazaar while outfitting for an expedition in Jumanji. :mrgreen: bushsword01 by James Helm, on Flickr bushsword02 by James Helm, on Flickr And now I feel tired. :D :D :D This is a good bit (not all) of half a year's forged blades (not mid-tech). And, of course, I have any number of projects currently underway.
  22. 4 points
  23. 4 points
    Think I originally forged this blade in 2009 when I made a couple war clubs and never got around to using it. Never got around to using it until a couple months ago but shortly after I started working on it I had an accident when my right thumb jumped in front of the blade of my table saw while I was cutting the piece of handle material for this project. First time doing any art work like this for me. It was a learn as I go moment. The half is 18" and made from a piece of hickory. The 7" blade was once part of a truck leaf spring Wayne Goddard had given me years ago.
  24. 4 points
    Robb, That pic of you twisting that bar is worthy of making one of those inspirational posters with the word "determination" on it. I love stories like this one.
  25. 4 points
    This has taken me days to get to this stage. Way more work than I imagined. I am being over careful and just need to relax. Anyhow I cleaned the billet and the welds look so far so good. I got Jock to look over it and I have approval to continue.
  26. 3 points
    Here are a few folding knives I have made lately. They also double as a flint striker. Blades are 1084 and frame is 5160
  27. 3 points
    Here is all 5 I have been working on. All are 1095 clayed with Rutlands Furnace Cement. Blades are approximately 6-8 inches long.
  28. 3 points
    A small edc/bushcrafter from old file steel. Overall knife size is 7.25 inches. 3.25 inch blade and 4 inch handle. Edge quenched in water. I had this different handle style in mind for a while and finally got around to making it.It has a full tang upto the brass disc on the handle.The front part of the tang is covered by a brass shim collar and has teak wood scales fixed by pins .The remaining part of the tang goes through the wood and is peened over a brass endcap.
  29. 3 points
    The new design I have been refining is called the PH EDC. As an EDC for the professional hunter (Africa in particular) this knife must be able to do any of the chores a PH may need a knife for during the day. It has a skinning influence toward the front half of the blade with enough tip for penetration and enough length of straight blade for simple cutting needs and enough depth of blade to give good finger protecton during heavy work. Handle has been shaped so that there is depth for a slight slab sided feel which is an aid to prevent rolling in the hand increasing directability and safety which also eases cramp (caused by having to hold tight to prevent turning in the hand) during long cutting work with the rear of the handle having the recurve eased to ensure there is no friction (hot spot) against the heel of the hand. Front of handle and in particular where the index finger rests is narrowed for specific transition curve to give support without inpinging on hold as this is another area where hot spots can occur. Blade will be from 5/32 1095 high carbon steel with a 4 3/4 in blade having a FF grind.Comments welcome
  30. 3 points
    We're back! Thanks to Niels and Dave.
  31. 3 points
    It took me about 30 minutes of work time to make this hammer. Body is 1 1/8 square, eye is ½ inch wide by a little over 1 inch long. Weight is around 1.5 Lbs. I used the same method as shown in Decorative Ironwork (COSIRA) for the journal. Which was, after forging the corners in, drill two holes side by side, plug holes and then drill the third hole in the center. Knock out the remaining bits of the plugs, a little file work and you have a finished eye. Dress the face and you're done. The corners of the eye would have been cleaner, but all I had for a coarse file was a 1” wide and what I needed was a ¾. I'm not showing off here, I hoping to convey just how easy it is to make your own hammers. Three holes drilled and a little file work and you have a hammer. This method is a commonly used method by some of the well known hammer makers. Just instead of a drill, they're using a milling machine to cut the eye.
  32. 3 points
    I think I just heard @Jeremy Blohm start his truck... (...and I live 4 hours south of him!)
  33. 3 points
    Normally when I start creating a new pattern, I will draw it out on paper and then engineer how to make it. This time just to be different I designed this one "on the fly". Welded: I then did a "W" squeeze , a three piece cut & stack with some extra 15N20 in between. Once welded I squared it on the bias: Drawn out: Squared & ready for a 4-way: After a tile cut & weld: For a design on the fly, I'm pretty happy with it.
  34. 3 points
    Keep in mind that welding mild to mild requires more heat then welding blade steels together. The more carbon a steel has, the lower the welding temp becomes. You should use flux. You dont need flux to weld, but when you're new at this, use every advantage available to you. Stack the deck in your favor. You can use borax as flux, yes. You can also use sand. Or about a thousand other things. Borax is sodium tetraborate, a salt of boric acid. It can be found in Walmart in the laundry detergent section. It can be used as laundry soap as well as flux and many other things. A lot of people will take and "bake" borax, heat it up in the oven for example, to drive off the water present within. This is then called anhydrous borax. Now generally speaking, flux is any substance used in metalworking to shield metals from oxidation, and promote melting and flowing (in soldering.) We use borax while forge welding to shield the very hot steel from oxygen, as the borax melts and creates a glossy barrier between metal and air. Borax also has the benefit of being caustic while molten, so it also slightly etches the steel and cleans it. Flux is used with many welding processes such as stick welding and soldering. It's a broad question, I hope I answered it well for you.
  35. 3 points
    I would like to take the opportunity to thank the admins for the hard work they do keeping this site clean. I dont know diddly about this kind of stuff, but I imagine it's difficult and relentless. So thanks, guys.
  36. 3 points
  37. 3 points
    This one has been on the back burner now for a while as I just wasn't sure which direction that I should go with it. I've tried several new looks to the hilt on this one and wasn't satisfied with any of them. I finally decided that the handle should match the wooden sheath so here's what I'm going with: I've yet to do the final spit & polish to the handle and the walnut burl needs a few more coats of finish but I'm getting close.
  38. 3 points
    Whoops! This picture didn’t make it in there. Here it is next to the design.
  39. 3 points
    I'm sorry I missed this so far, but you are doing great work! The shape and pattern are right on. You can get some interesting results by changing the proportion of your bars in the billet. For instance making the edge bar closer to half of the full width of the blade and making the iron spine and twist the same width, or even making the iron spine less wide than the twist. It can make the pattern appear 'finer' and lets the edge bar make the blade appear wider. Not that you did anything wrong by a long shot! Just me musing on pattern layup. I have found a lot of smiths are very lazy with their twist patterns and have twisted bars drawn out to several to mess their length and no longer resemble twists at all! Looking at the original artifacts you can see all of the shapes and patterns are made with exactitude and purpose, which is something you showed here. again, great work and I can't wait to see the rest! Any plans for the grip?
  40. 3 points
    I believe the general consensus is that a Blacksmiths knife is the theme for this year's Christmas KITH. I'm thinking that we should decide on what exactly the parameters are so people can feel comfortable getting started. Here's my take: Any length/style of blade. Blade and outer handle frame forged from a continuous piece of steel (Damascus billets and other multi piece construction allowed, as long as it's forge welded into a continuous piece) Decoration may be added as long as the outer handle frame is not hidden or compromised. Mechanical fasteners allowed for decorative purposes. Firm due date of 12/15/2019 (allows for shipping time before Christmas). Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree. Thoughts?
  41. 3 points
    You're a true gentleman Jeremy Conner, Some day you'll see a young person struggling to get started in something, and you'll be in a position to help. When that day comes, you'll know what to do.
  42. 3 points
    Almost ready to weld this canoe: I may need to re-arrange some of the tiles as the points of the first two don't match very well. It's an easy fix at this point, impossible later on.
  43. 3 points
    Nearing completion now. Need to clean up the secondary fuller, sharpen and make a leather sheathe for it. OAL: 18.25" Blade: 14" Weight: 15 ounces. Full Length Some fun color in the ivory. Wrought iron pommel cap.
  44. 3 points
    Forged this dude out. I think this particular wagon tire is high P. Didnt want to behave. Luckily it welds back together if you catch it soon enough. When I was forging the tang it pulled apart right at the tang shoulder. I was able to weld it back by getting it screaming hot, grabbing it by the blade and hitting it vertically onto the anvil. Oh, and last night I bought rail humbuckers in a "loaded pickguard" and thicker strings for the guitar. I played my buddy's dad's solidbody with humbuckers and it was a freaking blast. Didnt wanna stop. The pickguard is mint green with some black parts. Should look pretty schweet I think!
  45. 3 points
    Thanks Chris. The steel turned out like I wanted, but I didn't plan ahead for what the grinding of the bevels would do to the pattern. That was the first blade I made from the bar. This is the second one. (I showed it a couple of weeks ago since I finished it first) I adjusted the grind a bit to get a better pattern: @Alex Middleton - Nice stabilizing tank!
  46. 3 points
    Great result on the auction knife, It went for £250 gbp (about $320 bucks)! The guy that has bought it is a Michelin starred chef, which is a nice bonus as it puts my work 'out there' a bit
  47. 3 points
    Alright gents, here we go. I'm going for something a little different. I'm going to try to do a blacksmiths bowie with an integral D guard, all one piece. Roughly a 7 inch blade, 4.5 inch long handle. I have a piece of .75" square stock 1080 from Aldo on it's way for this project It's going to be tricky. I need like 20 inches of "tang" to wrap it all the way around. Going to be lots of drawing out for this one, all by hand too. I believe 1080 takes a decent hamon, no? I may give that a try on this one . The grip of the knife will also be wrapped in leather, though I didn't draw that in. I made a preliminary drawing of the knife and sheath, but I'm not much of an artist, so forgive me lol. The sheath will have a hawk tooled into the face, as well as a belt loop with a snap for quick attachment to a belt, and loops with snaps to hold the blade in. Wish me luck!
  48. 3 points
    I hung one of my sheep up last night and thought to show the knives I used in the process of that and getting it all freezer ready. Top is the copper and ebony slaughterman which I use to to start the process Then the copper and giraffe bone handled skinner to get the skin off. An acacia handled general purpose knife for much of the breaking down after splitting the carcase with a reciprocating saw. Walnut from my father yard (cut in '81) on my old pattern boning knife. The new designed meat slicer and I was very pleased how this one made the job of dicing the stew meat and the rest thata will be made into mince (ground meat), sausage and salami. All bagged and ready for the freezer. There is quite a bit of sheep, goat and deer meat already in the freezer waiting for this one so next week after this has frozen I will get it all out and have a day on the meat grinder to further process it all
  49. 3 points
    I'm 1900 of my monopoly moneys into the build.....but I'm very happy with my beefy 5160 platen Slightly nervous about heat treating it, but if it warps i'll be on the lookout for somebody with a surface grinder Still waiting for the quote on the backplate.
  50. 3 points
    Forged this one out of 5160. Handle is local Ironwood. Where I am there is a Million Dollar fish competition where they have released 6 tagged barramundi worth a million dollar prize. There are also 100 $10,000 tagged fish. Thought I would need a knife to fillet one if I land one.....I would really enjoy that meal.
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