Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    hi, Recently made axes. From left copy of battle axe from Podhorce with copper inlays, again Podhorce but without the inlays and Hadeby axe. Podhorce axe head is forged from old iron and steel with copper inlays. Podhorce (in the middle) and Hadeby axe made from high carbon steel. Thank you Jacek
  2. 7 points
    Pattern welded Kitchen knife, 275 layer,Handle Bog Rata (NZ Native) capped with sterling silver bolster.Total length 33.5 cm, blade21 cm
  3. 6 points
  4. 6 points
    Here's the blade after being forged, rough ground and a quick etch. While forging I found that the flower next to the one which hadn't welded didn't fully weld either so my blade now has a four flower pattern. Obviously that part of the canoe didn't soak at welding temperature long enough. It appeared to be hot enough but sometimes it's just hard to tell. It still gave me 7 1/2" of blade though which is plenty. Actually I think that I like the pattern better with four inlays than I did with more. Anyway, it's much better to find these things out early rather than later when you can't work around them. ,
  5. 5 points
    I'm limited on what I can do on this project until my new saw for cutting the inlays gets delivered but did manage to get the guard profiled, slotted, bent & sanded today as well as the blade H/T'ed & tempered.:
  6. 5 points
    Got caught in the flow with this one, as I only had 1/2 day to take it from rough sanded, as above, to finished sharpened knife. I have very limited making time. Long and short of it this is not a 'work in progress thread' but the knife is finished - all feedback appreciated. Handle is, I think, Ringed Gidgee, with a 925 silver spacer.
  7. 5 points
    Don gave me this blade five or six years ago and said, "Make something beautiful with it". Hmm, ok, so it rumbled around in my mind until last fall. It was a slow process figuring out the transition, theme and all the details, but I think it came good in the end. I didn't find out until it was almost finished that it was Don's last patterned blade. I knew it had to be one of the last, but THE last. I'm glad I didn't know as I was working on it. Below is a little of what I've written. More to be read here: Kelso Journal And a slide show with more photos here: Fogg/Kelso In keeping with the persona of a hunting knife, I chose to represent features of the Vermont woodlands that would be familiar to a skilled, observant woodsman. These include tracks of the Red Fox, leaves of Red Maple, Beech, and Red and White Oaks, and a feather. The feather was modeled from the Ruffed Grouse, but altered in shape and color to fit the surroundings. I chose a feather as a sign of passage, which in the case of birds, could be molting, conflict, flight or death. Feathers have such deep and subtle beauty. My wife Jean and I have a collection and I always wonder, when finding a single feather, what the story was. The tracks, leaves and feather are all signs, marking activity and transition, the meaning of which is read by the skilled woodsman. This project has been very satisfying for a number of reasons. I was touched and honored when Don gave me the blade to finish. I did not realize until the piece was nearly finished that it was his last patterned blade, which greatly enhances the meaning for me. Don is a legend in the smithing world, and rightly so. Apart from his technical innovations, he has an artistic eye, both for pattern and form, which is rarely, if ever matched. In addition, his Bladesmith’s Forum stands as an unparalleled online resource for beginning and accomplished knifemakers.
  8. 5 points
    Last night after weeks of work I water quenched my first Katana. This morning I was convinced I would find a cracked piece of 1075. To my surprise we have a solid, hardened blade. I can't stop smiling. I stand on the shoulder of giants who shared their wisdom and knowledge. I want to say thank you!
  9. 5 points
    After taking a week off for a small vacation, I'm back in the shop. I got this billet welded this morning. Unfortunately the second flower didn't weld to my satisfaction so I shortened the billet to five flowers. That still gives me plenty of steel for a good sized blade though. Here's a look at it after a rough grind and a quick etch: I'm thinking of using blackwood for the handle with an inlay of this mastodon ivory cut into a scroll pattern.
  10. 4 points
    Some time ago I put a handle on a finished blade I bought to make a handle for. This knife was for practice. The story and the first knife are here. For this knife I used the full tang blade I made in the stock removal class I took in March. The scales are Bubinga and a wood similar to walnut that I have had close to forty years and can't remember the name. This knife was also practice, but I am also trying to do the best I can, and just get practice. I was also looking for more "gotchas", and boy, did I find them... The blade I used was about 8", and I would have preferred 9" to 9.5". That left me with two choices - either make the blade or the handle too short. I chose to make the blade too short since this is an ongoing process and I also need to work on handles. I would appreciate honest critiques - you will not hurt my feeling, (probably ). Here is what I found either wrong, or not to my liking. As mentioned, the blade is too short, but my choice of extending the bolster onto the blade made the blade look even shorter. And I wish the transition between the bolster and the scales was smoother, plus I somehow managed to put a few dings in the bolster. The scales follow the shape of the blade, but I did not do any shaping from side to side for ergonomics. The mosaic pins are off center because I took a bit off the bottom of the blade although I suspect they were a bit off when I drilled them. I also managed to scratch the blade at some point, so I messed up the finish on the blade trying to remove that scratch. Now, what did I learn? First, epoxy is very slippery and very messy. I did not make the first set of scales big enough, and wound up having to make a second set. When drilling holes in scales, clamp them to the drill press because if the bit catches and racks the scales, you wind up with out of round holes, (I forgot to mention that above...). Tape the blade as soon as you finish sanding or you may wind up scratching it. There is probably more, but I can't think of anything else except that I thoroughly enjoyed making the knife, and will make more. Sorry for the crappy cell phone photos:
  11. 4 points
    Not half bad for not picking up a hammer in 5 months, me thinks. 5.5” hunter/Bowie
  12. 4 points
    Hey All, Been busy lately. Here is a set just out of its second Temper Cycle. Heat Treated last night. Mostly recycled materials. The Mutt Damascus started as 3 types of old band saw blades, then added Leaf Spring, A FIle, Drill Rod. Then added a few layers of 1084, 15n20 and 52100. It's a Mutt. Now for the fun of cleaning, handling and sheathing the lot...
  13. 4 points
    I have to agree with everything Joel said, but I'd charge more. Do break a test piece and look at your grain. I just taught a "knifemaking (mostly) unplugged" class for my local guild in which I taught the decalescence method and the benefits of normalizing/thermal cycling. First I put my muffle pipe in the forge and let it warm up to what looked like a nice orange color, then asked them what temperature they thought they were seeing based on the common charts. Everyone agreed it looked like the classic orange just above cherry red, or about 1500 degrees. I put a thermocouple in it and it came out 1795 degrees F. Moral: Don't trust the color. I also had some W1 forged to 1/4" square that I let soak at that heat for three minutes, quenched, and broke. The grain was like table sugar. I then did three thermal cycles (take it to critical judging by decalescence, let air cool to black, repeat) and quenched on the last heat and snapped another half-inch off the end. The grain was like glass. This showed them just how important temperature control is. and how easy it is to overshoot your target heat. The great thing about using decalescence is that it works for ALL the steels you can heat treat effectively in a typical home shop without a kiln. Don't know the critical temperature for your steel? Don't worry about it, decalescence will show you. 1095 transforms at around 1450 degrees F. 5160 does it at 1525 F. 52100 does it at 1550 F. But what about the magnet test? Magnets are great, but not for heat treating. All magnetic steels go non-magnetic at 1425 degrees. That gets you close with most of the 10XX series steels, but not quite where you need to be. with 5160, 52100, O1, etc, nonmagnetic is a subcritical anneal. So what is decalescence? It is when the glowing steel stops emitting photons because the crystalline phase is changing from body-centered cubic to face-centered cubic, aka critical temperature. In low light conditions it appears as a sort of swirling shadow inside the surface of the steel. It starts at the thinner parts and creeps into the thicker as the heat evens out in the steel. As soon as all the shadows are gone, the blade has fully transformed and is ready to quench or let air cool. If you choose to air cool, you will see the opposite effect, recalescence. This appears as a bright line that moves from the edge back into the spine, caused by the emission of photons when the crystalline phase shifts back. These are quantum phenomena that can't be faked. The class got a kick out of it once they saw it for themselves, and I told them they were now practicing quantum physics without a license. It sounds complicated, but it's really not. You don't really need to know exactly what's happening at the subatomic level (although that's kinda cool if you're a big a geek as I am), all you need to know is to watch for the shadows on a rising heat and pull the blade when the shadows are gone. Finally, the oil needs to be a little hotter. 130 degrees is the usual statement for canola or veterinary mineral oil. That is the point at which those oils are the most effective at heat transfer, and for 1095 you really need the fastest heat transfer you can get short of cracking the blade, because with that alloy you have just under one second to drop the temperature from critical to 900 degrees or it's not gonna harden. With 5160 or 80CrV2 you have around six seconds to do the same thing. With O-1 you have around 30 seconds, which is why thin blades of O-1 will air harden. Finally finally, infrared thermometers stop working as soon as things are hot enough to glow.
  14. 4 points
    My first attempt at multi layer Damascus, I chose low layer twist on a modified cleaver. 15 layers of 1084 and 15n20 dry welded by hand and a homemade press with a 20ton air/hydraulic jack. I got down to 1.5” square then cut my end off to check the welds. I BBQ quite a bit and wanted a cleaver shaped blade to slice with. I welded and forged out a billets my shop, then went to a hammer in hosted by DanGraves to pick his brain and use some of his toys to do the real work. Handle is Buckeye Burl that I picked up at the Arkansas Knife Show. OAL is just shy of 14” and a cutting edge of 8.5”. I made some mistakes along the way but am pleased with where I ended up. IIRC this is knife 21 for me. It sliced a brisket and ham Easter Sunday like a champ.
  15. 3 points
    Commission blades. A 6 inch steak knife alongside a 4 inch paring knife. An 8 inch chefs knife will be added in with the set soon. 52100 steel, full ground with a mirror finish, Honduran Rosewood handles and 303 stainless pins. Let me know what you think.
  16. 3 points
    I haven't had much time for knives lately, but did manage to work in this project. I did it with a team of three other people for an end of semester mini-project for a materials science class. I think this video introduces it pretty well: The knives are made from mild steel carburized with either Cabot seriously sharp cheddar or pecorino romano cheese. We made a total of six. Credit to my friend Ricky for the video editing as well as the design of the knife. This is some of the cheddar after we pyrolized it. Half of the blades were carburized with powdered cheese charcoal and the other half with straight cheese. Both methods yielded similar results. We packed everything in stainless foil pouches and soaked at 925 C for five hours. Unforunately the cheddar charcoal pouch deteriorated and let in air which led to a slightly lower carbon content than the others. We also put a dogbone tensile specimen in each pouch and have some mechanical data I may put in a post in the metallurgy section of this forum. The grinding and polishing was all done with a bench grinder. I still have an un-ground blank I'm going to put a proper grind on in my own shop. Still, for a rush job with people who were just learning how to make knives, I think these turned out pretty good. The handle scales are galalith, a casein based plastic. This greatly increased the dairy content of the knives. The steel is about 0.4-0/5% cheese by weight from my best approximation (again, the materials analysis may have its own thread at some point). This stuff is very soft and brittle and supergluing scales together for drilling ended up to cause a lot of problems. Here's a finished knife. I will probably post better pictures of the one I finish on my own later. Hope you enjoyed!
  17. 3 points
    hi, Below couple of custom seaxes made last month. Gotland seax Seax made from EN45 carbon steel, hand forged with brut de forge finish, hilt made of oak with brass fittings. Scabbard made of vegetable tanned leather with brass fittings based on Gotland finds, two leather straps to hang the seax on belt. Overall length 370mm, blade length 250mm, blade width (at the widest point) 35mm, blade thickness 5mm. Broken back seax Seax with decorated scabbard, hand forged welded blade from wrought iron and carbon steel, hilt made deer antler with brass fittings. Scabbard made of vegetable tanned leather with brass fittings, with leather loops to hang the seax on belt. Overall length 320mm, blade length 200mm, blade width (at the widest point) 35mm, blade thickness 4mm. Thank you Jacek
  18. 3 points
    Try a chainsaw file. They're good at half-round grooves.
  19. 3 points
    Sorry for the delay. After finding out I was out of leather dye, I had to order some and wait for it to arrive. Back to work tonight. This is half tan, so it must be stitched wet. Then you let it dry for 2 days with the knife inside and it shrinks down and hardens providing a tight fit and “click” when the knife is sheathed. That is - if I did it right. We shall see.
  20. 3 points
    I'm going to quote myself from another post, just because I'm pleased with the way I said this: I have to agree with everything Joel said, but I'd charge more. Do break a test piece and look at your grain. I just taught a "knifemaking (mostly) unplugged" class for my local guild in which I taught the decalescence method and the benefits of normalizing/thermal cycling. First I put my muffle pipe in the forge and let it warm up to what looked like a nice orange color, then asked them what temperature they thought they were seeing based on the common charts. Everyone agreed it looked like the classic orange just above cherry red, or about 1500 degrees. I put a thermocouple in it and it came out 1795 degrees F. Moral: Don't trust the color. I also had some W1 forged to 1/4" square that I let soak at that heat for three minutes, quenched, and broke. The grain was like table sugar. I then did three thermal cycles (take it to critical judging by decalescence, let air cool to black, repeat) and quenched on the last heat and snapped another half-inch off the end. The grain was like glass. This showed them just how important temperature control is. and how easy it is to overshoot your target heat. The great thing about using decalescence is that it works for ALL the steels you can heat treat effectively in a typical home shop without a kiln. Don't know the critical temperature for your steel? Don't worry about it, decalescence will show you. 1095 transforms at around 1450 degrees F. 5160 does it at 1525 F. 52100 does it at 1550 F. But what about the magnet test? Magnets are great, but not for heat treating. All magnetic steels go non-magnetic at 1425 degrees. That gets you close with most of the 10XX series steels, but not quite where you need to be. with 5160, 52100, O1, etc, nonmagnetic is a subcritical anneal. So what is decalescence? It is when the glowing steel stops emitting photons because the crystalline phase is changing from body-centered cubic to face-centered cubic, aka critical temperature. In low light conditions it appears as a sort of swirling shadow inside the surface of the steel. It starts at the thinner parts and creeps into the thicker as the heat evens out in the steel. As soon as all the shadows are gone, the blade has fully transformed and is ready to quench or let air cool. If you choose to air cool, you will see the opposite effect, recalescence. This appears as a bright line that moves from the edge back into the spine, caused by the emission of photons when the crystalline phase shifts back. These are quantum phenomena that can't be faked. The class got a kick out of it once they saw it for themselves, and I told them they were now practicing quantum physics without a license. It sounds complicated, but it's really not. You don't really need to know exactly what's happening at the subatomic level (although that's kinda cool if you're a big a geek as I am), all you need to know is to watch for the shadows on a rising heat and pull the blade when the shadows are gone. Finally, the oil needs to be a little hotter. 130 degrees is the usual statement for canola or veterinary mineral oil. That is the point at which those oils are the most effective at heat transfer, and for 1095 you really need the fastest heat transfer you can get short of cracking the blade, because with that alloy you have just under one second to drop the temperature from critical to 900 degrees or it's not gonna harden. With 5160 or 80CrV2 you have around six seconds to do the same thing. With O-1 you have around 30 seconds, which is why thin blades of O-1 will air harden.
  21. 3 points
    Engraved the re-sheath. I like it much better. and just for kicks, a glamour shot of the triplets (not identical) I guess I better get out the leather box.
  22. 3 points
    I got the remainder of the flowers shaped & ready for welding today. I hope that these pics explain my process. I'm going to take some time off from the shop for a while. I'll try to keep you updated in a week or so as I progress with this one.
  23. 2 points
    Contestant #1 Take a small piece of burl wood. Fit it to the tang And profile
  24. 2 points
    I have been reading and following this thread for quite a while but this is my first post. Please let me know what you think and where I can improve. I am planning to post more and take pics at various stages. This is my first stock removal knife, I have forged all my other blades. I am considering selling this design and it seems to be very quick using this method. I made this from an 8x1.5x0.125 piece of 1095. Heat treat was in the forge roughly 1700-1800 degrees quenched in 100 degree vegetable oil and temper for 1.5 hours at 425.
  25. 2 points
    Every one of those big hexagonal bits I have used was 1045. Someone, back in the 1980s, put it out there that all jackhammer bits are S-7. I have never seen one of those. The late Grant Sarver of Off-Center Forge started a business repointing bits in the early 1990s, and he called the companies to find out what the heat treat should be. They all gave him identical "heat to medium red, oil quench, temper at 350 degrees F, but only one (Brunner & Lay) told him what the steel was: 1045 with a pinch of silicon added. It may well be the little ones Bosch makes could be an S-series, and there's no telling about the big hydraulic rock-breakers on track hoe arms, but the standard pavement breaker bit is 1045.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
×