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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/15/2015 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I like to think of forge welding using a venn diagram. three circles over lapping in the middle is a solid weld, one circle is a clean surface/ inert atmosphere one is close contact and the third is the energy state . theses three conditions must be present, in this kind of a weld and we can create and manipulate theses conditions using heat, pressure, and flux. any one of the conditions can overcome weakness in the others up to a point. heat and pressure are the two that are easiest to manipulate, this is why it is recommended to weld at higher temps. how ever if you are using a large power hammer or press welding at cooler temps is possible, welding at cooler temps is also possible if the two surfaces are very flat, well fit and and clean. when I am having trouble getting a weld to stick I refer back to this in my head and adjust one or two variables. that normally will rectify the problem... and if not I throw it in the corner of the shop and never speak of it again .
  2. 1 point
    I'm glad to see the wrought iron worked out, that looks fantastic!
  3. 1 point
    I feel I shouldnt say this, but i look for the dragon's breath at the opening the burner shoots into and tune accordingly. my burner is NOT in the chamber at all, but outside it. I used a 2x4 to size both openings. I should mention i run my drum furnace vertical as I dont do many katana, and even when I did some, i still ran it vertical to no ill effect. I've not tried the muffle pipe yet, but have had little to no scaling issues, the tuneability of a quality burner like the trex makes this possible i think. It works so well in fact with the Trex and 1" of wool with the ridgidizer, i am skeptical to think it could work better. as to tempering, a hot oil bath is cheap and easy, and used to great effect for odd shaped or long blades. a pipe or box of steel any dimension you need and a couple gallons of cheap canola.
  4. 1 point
    Jan, Researching for my own charcoal burns (now curtailed by the local Fire Department,) a common theme was to carefully place the wood into the pit and to start the burn at the top. I assume you get better conversion to charcoal when the bulk of the wood is not afire causing too high temperatures. In this instance, you want lots of smoke because, when it disappears, that is when the fire is getting too hot and signal that it is time to cut off oxygen. ~Bruce~
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