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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/01/2016 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    hi all, after a long break I`d like to show you another knife, I built it last winter. steel: W1 guard: steel and bronce seacow-rib length: 35cm blade only: 21cm thickness: 5,0-1,5mm thanks for looking! gerhard
  2. 1 point
    One trick Aldo Bruno taught me that helped a lot when I wanted a certain finish was to paint the blade with layout fluid (Dykem or similar) and sand until it was all gone. It helped me a ton because the blue scratch was really visible and I didn't have to rely on the right angle of light to see if I missed one when I was two grits past it. That'll show you if the scratches you have are new from a hard stone, or if they are remnants from an earlier step. Just reapply the fluid before you move on to the next grit.
  3. 1 point
    Here is mine Full specs: Blade: 9.375" L 1.75" W with .75" Ricasso Handle: 5.875" L including guard OA: 15.25" L Blade forged from a file Guard forged from a cross pein hammer Handle is copper, mild steel, and cherry Shweath is cherry, red oak and a leather belt
  4. 1 point
    It's rather thin. The hunting knife of Charlemagne is quite thin too, about 3-4mm I believe, but most are noticeably thicker then that. So if you still have to remove metal to remove the last hammer marks, you end up with something that's too thin for a sax. As for the overall shape, here you have a nice overview of the variation: http://www.vikingage.org/wiki/images/b/bb/Seax_Blades.jpg The Sittingbourne sax is one of the straightest, but still has some belly of you look carefully. And notice the shape of the tangs and transition from blade to tang.
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