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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/19/2017 in Posts

  1. Just a couple of pieces. A adze forged from 1060 and a, well for lack of a better term a "Danish" hawk..Wrap and weld hawk with some Danish flair. Mild body and W1 cutting bit
    1 point
  2. Hi Rob, hope the surgery is successful and the rehab not too bad. As for the hawk's. If you can do this good of a job one handed, I'd really like to see what you can do with two. Looks sweet mate. Crack on.
    1 point
  3. And a fine idea it is. I hope to see some of these appear in the show and tell.
    1 point
  4. That was discredited long ago. It was an attempt to explain reduction of oxides, and worked as an explanation until oxygen was isolated in the late 1700s.
    1 point
  5. First scythian akinakes(foto o,c,d,e) modeled after the discovery of Rozbórz,Podkarpacie,Polska, dating V BC Dimensions: 54.2 cm, length of blade 40,4 cm, handle length 14,4 cm, width of the blade at the base 5.7 cm, width 2.7 cm core of the handle, the head 2.3 X 6.7 cm, span of dace 7.4 cm, weight 743 gramm. The second(foto z,f,g) handle is lined with moose antlers and carved out of the old iron. Overall length 57 cm, blade width at its widest point 4.2 cm, weight 700 gramm. The last (foto a, b) is 65 cm long and 390 grams.
    1 point
  6. Push dagger from old file. No wood was harmed in the process
    1 point
  7. Wow, I'm not sure I should even post anything among all the fantastic work from you all... I just got started last year, so not much to choose from. That said, I think my best from 2016 would be this pair:
    1 point
  8. Doing a rough grind tonight, more or less got all the scale off and a general outline and just had to check the pattern. Wolf tooth is kinda there... but it's a dull old wolf thats missing so teeth... but he'll still gum you to death! It's a ever going quest and now I have a much better idea what to do and change on the next one, but cant wait to get some more time to work on this blade!
    1 point
  9. The distal taper, or tapering in thickness is rarely straight in most blades. As a starting point it is useful to divide the blade into 5 equal parts. Let the first 1/5 have a drastic distal taper, the next 2/5 have a moderate or minimal distal taper and give the last 2/5 a distal taper that is less severe than the first but more than the mid part of the blade. This lay out of the distal taper will give you a lively blade that is stiff for its weight. Needless to say, there are many variations to this and you have to tweak the proportions of the parts and the severity of the distal taper
    1 point
  10. Sweet! Do a transitional bronze-> Iron Age one next, with cast bronze handle =D
    1 point
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