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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/23/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    A sizable chuck of time went into this project, and I am very proud of the results. The mokume is fabricated from silver, copper, and two different copper/silver alloys I cast and milled for the project. The rest of the fittings are made from the same metals. The blade is 15n20 and 1084 and has an 8 3/4 edge length and is 13 3/4 overall. The area just behind the guard was fabricated hollow and has an African Blackwood core while the pommels fabrication is mostly solid. As a result, the blade is very light and very well balanced. The handle itself is also African Blackwood. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask
  2. 1 point
    Man that just shows that talent always trumps tools. Don't let my wife see this or my excuses for why I need "this or that" are all dead.
  3. 1 point
    I've always thought of fumbari as 'tree trunk' or mountain shaped. When forging I start with a lot of material where the hilt will be. I will upset that portion of a bar if its not wide/thick enough. Good question/thread!
  4. 1 point
    Soaking the above flat high carbon bloom for almost 2 hrs , occasionally adding borax, worked ..I tested a section and was able to compact it vertically but it has no strength side to side...it should stack and come together. My new forge/crucible furnace is done ( very simple ) and I hope to weld some more this week end. The bubbles forming under the borax are carbon monoxide ( CO ). If my metal sample were to weigh 500 grams and be at 2.4 % Carbon and I wanted to reduce that carbon to 1.2% Carbon...then I would have to lower the carbon by 6 grams. The volume of CO generated by 6 grams of carbon would be about 3 gallons of CO at room temperature ( patience). Adjusting for temperature difference at the forge temperature that would be almost 5X as much in volume. I have made some charcoal ( Pit Charcoal ) , about 275 gallons and due to my fear of small particles I will probably only be able to use 1/2 of that material.
  5. 1 point
    I would suggest looking through the Knives For Sale subforum for makers whose work you like, then send them a PM. After that, the Show and Tell subforum may help you find someone that makes the kind of blade you want. If you have a hard time finding something in those or if the PMs don't lead to a connection then a post in the Knives For Sale subforum is probably the best bet. Be as specific as you can in what you are looking for, overall length/size, materials, type of finish, and budget are very helpful. If you can add example pictures or drawings, that will also be good. And if at all possible, let the smith have as much creative freedom as possible. If you see something that you like, but it wasn't listed for sale, tell that smith you liked it and "want something like that". Hope that helps.
  6. 1 point
    Okay, I'm gonna have to pin this one. Thanks, Peter!
  7. 1 point
    A bar set so high most of us will never get over. But will be so much fun trying. All I can say is WOW Keep showing us your wonderful work it inspires me and I am sure many others.
  8. 1 point
    Both are gorgeous! The brass details and the inlay are fantastic. I'm glad you posted those!
  9. 1 point
    It's about time....... Jacek's work has always been a bit of a jaw dropper. The carving on his handles and the metal work on the sheaths is... is.... what's the word? Absofreekinmazing
  10. 1 point
    Just beautiful I love wrought iron. Fittings are really finest! I like them both a lot. Btw, I didn't even know about such a style of folding knives.
  11. 1 point
    Curious about the carbon content of the above shiny bloom. Here are some pics after a rough grind..not quite cast iron but way up there..my guess is close to 2.% carbon. I will try to forge it after a long 2 hr soak in slag ( the foamy slag shown above + a little borax) .
  12. 1 point
    Thank you for sharing your amazing work!
  13. 1 point
    The distal taper, or tapering in thickness is rarely straight in most blades. As a starting point it is useful to divide the blade into 5 equal parts. Let the first 1/5 have a drastic distal taper, the next 2/5 have a moderate or minimal distal taper and give the last 2/5 a distal taper that is less severe than the first but more than the mid part of the blade. This lay out of the distal taper will give you a lively blade that is stiff for its weight. Needless to say, there are many variations to this and you have to tweak the proportions of the parts and the severity of the distal tapers according to blade type, cross section and dimension of the blade. As a starting point, or rule of thumb, it works well however :-)
  14. 1 point
    Got the chance to run another furnace last week and the iron looks good but the yield is low.I am using old charcoal and got into some pretty small material and ashy material. This is one of my attempts at adding slag to the mix..the charcoal got me into trouble.... I will use this bloom ( very high carbon , very bright but no colors ) in the next few posts here to see if I can fold it. Bottom of the flat bloom and a foaming slag mass found on top of the bloom Foaming slag, showing small charcoal Broken bloom
  15. 1 point
    I have to take advantage of the seasons here and open fires are not allowed after April 30. Rice straw ash is becoming an essential ingredient in the welding of iron ...today I converted a bale of straw to ash. Edit: The yield of this run if expressed at % of ore weight was 47% The yield if expressed as total iron added was 65% All metal, slag and fluff was recovered and will be recycled as "ore" the cooled charcoal is ready for reuse as well. Next time we will try for a high carbon bloom... . Cast iron bloom with viscous slag layer on top Bloom profile showing bottom of furnace shape Bottom of the bloom, very little entrapped charcoal Slag and trapped cast iron..most of the cast iron was in the shape of smaller prils It took a while for me to figure out how to reduce the smoke Amazing material having so many uses..I form it into a powder..while in use it continues to burn and becomes a true ash. I have not noticed the benefit associated with having the carbon in the charred straw ..so I use the ash as well as the charred straw. ! bale makes about 25 gallons of ash and will last several years..age and the absorption of humidity seems to make no difference
  16. 1 point
    Tactical is really not all that different from a lot of what we do. It has a lot of very strict aesthetic and functional needs to be rite. There is a definite reality to tactical, but also a huge Fantasy. You will have to soak yourself in it and come at it from a point of educated honest integrity..... So I guess this begs the question, and I am being blatantly blunt here. Because this is a question that all of us face in our own work if there is any element of it having to pay for its self. Do you want to prostitute your craft ( by making something you seem to not be interested in) or would it be easier to find money another way and keep the more limited time you spend on the craft exactly how you want........ Managing the elements that you want to do in a craft with what you need to do can be hard. There are a lot of other avenues than tactical, kitchen cutlery, blacksmit'd stuff (way way easier than blades) . And also.....what do you charge for a sword? Could you charge more? Or could you make them faster. Or put it another way how much do you need to charge? I recon that there is a whole world of tactical that could be pretty cool to explore, but it is most probably another rabbit hole. We have so much of our personality wrapped up in what we do it can be quite hard to dismantle our choices , aesthetic, work ethic, efficiency ,acceptable quality and price. Making is really the easy part. Best of luck making it work.
  17. 1 point
    Mind? hah! Next time I want the picture even bigger! =D
  18. 1 point
    As of yesterday - I hope you don't mind the big picture.
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