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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Nothing to apologize of, i know those terms could be hard to understand for most, just some things are quite hard to translate since only appear on japanese style blades
  2. 1 point
    man nice work on the stand! mine is just on a log with some RR spikes driven in all around the steel, so its kinda wedged in (wobbles a lot) i probably would not hammer any rebar in that, it would probably split the wood. and it looks pretty much perfect to me, so no suggestions here!
  3. 1 point
    Thank you all for your help. In the end it was penetrating spray (WD40 and 3M when I got that - couldn't find Plusgas in the shops here), several heats and stands as well as some light hammer taps on the joints. Oh yeah, and the wire brush. So... back from the dead:
  4. 1 point
    I was lucky enuff to have Will at the William-Llyod carving booth buy a few of My very early pieces. the following season I walked(well mkore like staggered) through the booth and didnt even reconize My own stuff!!!!!! Im stoked ,Im in a boothe with the likes of Kc Lund!!!!!
  5. 1 point
    I wish I had a bushel basket of that curly oak. I've never seen another like it.
  6. 1 point
    W2 and Curly Oak: Single Twist, Gidgee, Wrought Iron and Ivory inlay: San-mai and Bakelite: Laddered Ws and Koa:
  7. 1 point
    One layer is fine. Two layers isn't necessarily better. Coat it with satanite. Buy it from hightemptools.com
  8. 1 point
    Indeed there is! Caveat emptor, as they say. I guess he can always dull it up a bit, but he requested sharp, so sharp he got. It's a two-foot handle, so if he drops it while puffing a femoral artery might get in the way...
  9. 1 point
    Rob, I think that may be the coolest thing you have ever made. I love it. Other than the ones from our Mr. Longmire, that is also one of my favorite pipe tomahawks I have seen made in a long time. I am really impressed with how you did this from that crowbar. Good forging, filing, etc. I am serious, I think this is an outstanding piece of work.
  10. 1 point
    I actually got started into knife making with a history project in high school (focusing on pattern welding though). What is the goal of the project? Knowing that will help choose what you want to do (making a wooden sword and silver spray paint would be much easier, for example). Having tried some "home casting", I would say I found forging somewhat easier. One option would be to buy a large-ish bar of aluminum and grind the sword. Aluminum is soft, but don't use it on grinding wheels, since it loads up the abrasive which can cause a lot of problems (like heat buildup breaking a wheel). Another would be to forge from steel. Mild steel (like "welding steel" at a hardware store) is fairly cheap. You can't harden it, but it sounds like that wouldn't be an issue (it will be much stronger than aluminum anyways). If you can melt aluminum in it, your forge can probably get steel hot enough to work. First though, do some thinking/research and have a design in mind. Once you have a good idea of what it is you're trying to make and what it needs to do, you can go from there.
  11. 1 point
    Antoine- I was just sitting down to reply to your email, and saw that you asked here as well- so I'll just answer here where it might help someone else too. I've got quite a few suggestions: Ore: As Jesus suggested, unless you've got decent ore you're going nowhere regardless of anything else. The bloomery process requires ore that is over 50% iron (70% iron oxide) That is the iron content of fayalite, and you only get the amount of iron above that as bloom. I'm not sure why you weren't able to get the dumpling crucible hot, unless you just got impatient. If you can get the outside white hot and keep it there, it's just a matter of time before the inside reaches that temperature. It usually takes me about 20 minutes to get heat to the inside, and I try to hold it at that heat for 15 or 20 minutes after that. You can also get an idea of how much iron vs sand is in your ore by grinding a given amount of ore, and dissolving out the iron oxide with muriatic acid, and measuring how much sand remains. This will take several days and repeated changes of the acid, until just the clean quartz remains. Furnace:The cinder block is a poor choice- you should at least line it with clay- but I bet it will fall to pieces once you get this furnace as hot as it should be. You want clay-based materials, not cement based materials. The iron pipe as a tuyere will rapidly burn up. You can cover it with good refractory clay, or make an all clay tuyere, or you can make a copper tuyere : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjE6WFSWglc Air rate/ burn time: I'm guessing your 5 liter/min is a typo- that's off by a factor of about 200 from what you want. The 1:1 ore to charcoal rate is fine, but 1 lb in 10 minutes is way too slow. In a 10" round furnace, I would consume 4 lbs ore and 4 lbs charcoal every 10 minutes. The 10" square would be even faster. A good consumption target is .35 grams of charcoal per minute per square centimeter of furnace cross section. Total input: Even if everything was right, you'd get nothing with only 10 lbs of ore. That's not even enough to get the furnace hot and start building a slag bowl. You need to run at least 60 or 70 lbs of ore through a 10" round furnace to be effective. Good luck, hope that helps- Lee
  12. 1 point
    http://www.htiwcoalition.org/asbestos.html
  13. 1 point
    Alan, I also wanted to add something. We all know what welding 5160 to itself is like with all that chromium. This steel only has a trace amount and it welds to itself just fine. We have made a bunch of bag axes out of it in the traditional bow tie method. just bend a small piece of the steel over itself for the bit instead of adding one and weld it up..makes a tough as nails axe..In fact the first time we ever made a axe with one is when I found out how much this steel hates water I felt the "PING" all the way to my teeth, cracked half the blade off right at the level it went into the water..Thats when I started digging.. This little axe was made from one..
  14. 1 point
    One completed. Water buffalo horn handle.
  15. 1 point
    As of yesterday - I hope you don't mind the big picture.
  16. 1 point
    I have noticed that there seems to be some confusion and/or questions concerning the basics of forging a puukko. I thought it would benefit some of you to see at least one way of achieving the ‘traditional’ blade geometry of a puukko-knife. This might not be the best way to do it, but, it works for me and for many others. Furthermore, this is by no means meant to be a complete or detailed guide. A brief explanation and a quick sketch of each major step of the process: 1. I usually start with about 4mm x 22mm x enough-not-to-burn-my-fingers flat barstock, like this; When I use a steel that is only available in round bar I go for 11mm or 12 mm in diameter, and flatten it first. 2. Use a suitable corner of the anvil to make one shoulder 3. Stretch out the tang. Forge meticulously, so that the thickest part is at the shoulder and there is a smooth taper towards the tip (of the tang) 4. Cut & remove burr - a bit shorter than the intended blade lenght. Like so; 5. Form the spine. Thickest part is where the shoulder is. Again there is a taper toward the tip. However, this time the taper need not be as pronounced, because you need material for the tip of the blade. Part B of the picture shows you what you should be aiming for. 6. Hammer the edge bevel. I start from the tang and work towards the tip. The piece starts to curve noticeably. Work both sides symmetrically 7. When making the edge bevel you can keep the blade straighter by simultanously hammering a bevel into the spine. Like so; This is where you get the 'diamond' cross section. To get a good result you will probably have to alternate between step 6. and 7., and also, straighten the blade by hitting the edge gently, the spine against the anvil. 8. Refine the shape of the blade until you get something like this 9. Make the other shoulder* just like the first, and at the same time straighten the tang. Notice the angle of the tang! *difficult to get this step right - It is often necessary to adjust the shoulders afterwards (grinding, filing) 10. Bevel & stretch the tang 11. Refine the tang until you reach something like this 12. Add makers mark, straighten, normalize..... etc. etc. If everything went well there should be relatively little grinding work to be done, and it should be easy to fit bolsters. If you are making a puukko with a birch bark handle make the tang as broad as you can.
  17. 1 point
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