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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/2017 in all areas

  1. Nothing to apologize of, i know those terms could be hard to understand for most, just some things are quite hard to translate since only appear on japanese style blades
    1 point
  2. man nice work on the stand! mine is just on a log with some RR spikes driven in all around the steel, so its kinda wedged in (wobbles a lot) i probably would not hammer any rebar in that, it would probably split the wood. and it looks pretty much perfect to me, so no suggestions here!
    1 point
  3. Thank you all for your help. In the end it was penetrating spray (WD40 and 3M when I got that - couldn't find Plusgas in the shops here), several heats and stands as well as some light hammer taps on the joints. Oh yeah, and the wire brush. So... back from the dead:
    1 point
  4. I was lucky enuff to have Will at the William-Llyod carving booth buy a few of My very early pieces. the following season I walked(well mkore like staggered) through the booth and didnt even reconize My own stuff!!!!!! Im stoked ,Im in a boothe with the likes of Kc Lund!!!!!
    1 point
  5. I wish I had a bushel basket of that curly oak. I've never seen another like it.
    1 point
  6. W2 and Curly Oak: Single Twist, Gidgee, Wrought Iron and Ivory inlay: San-mai and Bakelite: Laddered Ws and Koa:
    1 point
  7. One layer is fine. Two layers isn't necessarily better. Coat it with satanite. Buy it from hightemptools.com
    1 point
  8. Indeed there is! Caveat emptor, as they say. I guess he can always dull it up a bit, but he requested sharp, so sharp he got. It's a two-foot handle, so if he drops it while puffing a femoral artery might get in the way...
    1 point
  9. Rob, I think that may be the coolest thing you have ever made. I love it. Other than the ones from our Mr. Longmire, that is also one of my favorite pipe tomahawks I have seen made in a long time. I am really impressed with how you did this from that crowbar. Good forging, filing, etc. I am serious, I think this is an outstanding piece of work.
    1 point
  10. I actually got started into knife making with a history project in high school (focusing on pattern welding though). What is the goal of the project? Knowing that will help choose what you want to do (making a wooden sword and silver spray paint would be much easier, for example). Having tried some "home casting", I would say I found forging somewhat easier. One option would be to buy a large-ish bar of aluminum and grind the sword. Aluminum is soft, but don't use it on grinding wheels, since it loads up the abrasive which can cause a lot of problems (like heat buildup breaking a wheel).
    1 point
  11. Antoine- I was just sitting down to reply to your email, and saw that you asked here as well- so I'll just answer here where it might help someone else too. I've got quite a few suggestions: Ore: As Jesus suggested, unless you've got decent ore you're going nowhere regardless of anything else. The bloomery process requires ore that is over 50% iron (70% iron oxide) That is the iron content of fayalite, and you only get the amount of iron above that as bloom. I'm not sure why you weren't able to get the dumpling crucible hot, unless you just got impatient. If you can get the outside white
    1 point
  12. http://www.htiwcoalition.org/asbestos.html
    1 point
  13. Alan, I also wanted to add something. We all know what welding 5160 to itself is like with all that chromium. This steel only has a trace amount and it welds to itself just fine. We have made a bunch of bag axes out of it in the traditional bow tie method. just bend a small piece of the steel over itself for the bit instead of adding one and weld it up..makes a tough as nails axe..In fact the first time we ever made a axe with one is when I found out how much this steel hates water I felt the "PING" all the way to my teeth, cracked half the blade off right at the level it went into the water..
    1 point
  14. One completed. Water buffalo horn handle.
    1 point
  15. As of yesterday - I hope you don't mind the big picture.
    1 point
  16. I have noticed that there seems to be some confusion and/or questions concerning the basics of forging a puukko. I thought it would benefit some of you to see at least one way of achieving the ‘traditional’ blade geometry of a puukko-knife. This might not be the best way to do it, but, it works for me and for many others. Furthermore, this is by no means meant to be a complete or detailed guide. A brief explanation and a quick sketch of each major step of the process: 1. I usually start with about 4mm x 22mm x enough-not-to-burn-my-fingers flat barstock, like this; When
    1 point
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