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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/15/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Zombie Cleaver aka "Apocalyptica" W2 steel, quenched in Parks. My first knife with scales. Steel and scales from Aldo.
  2. 2 points
    The Backwoods Sheepsfoot. This was designed as a tough all around camp and utility knife, with a little file work for flair. 3/16's 1084, 8.5 inches long with a dark green and black micarta handle. Its remarkable balanced, the COB is just at the back round of the finger choil. I'm really starting to like this paper micarta. Tough as nails, especially when buffed up, but so easy to shape and grind.
  3. 1 point
    Hi guys! during which I was not, I learned a little bit new. please see my new pattern
  4. 1 point
    I have decided to post the entire making of the Blue Ridge Seax on YouTube. It is free for everyone to watch it. Here is the link: The Blue Ridge Seax
  5. 1 point
    Hightemptools.com will have everything, but be ready for a trip to a good hardware store for the odd fitting. Buy once cry cry once is a mentality most should adopt if you want to take any part of blade making seriously. I've never heard someone say "man I could have gotten the crappier one" ever. The T-Rex burner will be around as long as an anvil, and equally as useful and indespensible, so consider it a worthwhile investment. And taking things seriously is something that needs a bit of doing if you want to make swords and not dumb heavy crowbars. i find this is the first time in a long time I actually feel like saying this, but good job. Your willingness to take suggestion instead of ignorantly putting your head down and trying (and failing) to reinvent the wheel, and your lack of entitled attitude is very nice change to what I have seen as an all too common theme among forums. If you keep listening and doing, the pros will keep talking. Nice furnace and good choice as its really an incredible tool on the road to becoming a sword maker.
  6. 1 point
    quick bit of etching. Dunno if the pic shows but actually a nice pattern in the metal.
  7. 1 point
    No worries Chris. I did take it as you looking for reasoning and nothing more. That is the great thing about the forum. This is not my own design as I saw this great youtube video Because I dont need the overt pressure to hold the handle scales on I wont do the reinforce round the outside. (and probably wont paint them yelow either lol)
  8. 1 point
    It's an ugly little thing. But for my very first I'm proud I could pull it off. I learned a lot, especially about getting a design down in mind first before cutting it out. My next sheath will have the belt loop coming up behind the handle, I was limited on leather so I had to make do. I also need to practice my stamping before I use such a busy design again.
  9. 1 point
    Here's something from my latest blade. Full post here:
  10. 1 point
    Yes that's a skinner I designed. As for the sheath, it's not really something I plan on using again. This was just some practice to get my feet wet lol. So I won't be finishing it or anything.
  11. 1 point
    Hi Doug, No He's NOT Jesting - I've actually seen and read this is possible on multiple, reputable site such as "MyFaceTwitYouBookTubeGram" Duh! Didn't you know...
  12. 1 point
    Collin, I've had the same problem with mine using a Zoeller style sidearm burner (I refer to it as my dinky little burner), the temperature tops out at about 1300°... The only real difference between yours and mine is mine is vertical, and you found two barrels of the same color instead of blue and faded yellow... I also have a 2 x 4" port for the burner, which allows for a lot of room for tuning the angle and direction of the flame. I see two options, either add another burner or take Sam's advise and get a bigger burner. Since I already have a spare I'll be trying two burners first, perhaps with an extra burner I can get rid of the temperature gradient from top to bottom. Honestly though I should probably just take Sam's advise and buy a trex... Edited to add, I have an abundance of satanite I plan to use to stabilize the wool with, but I want to be sure everything works as it should first.
  13. 1 point
    Despite what some co characters might have said, it never was on tv when I was on it, it was on YouTube.
  14. 1 point
    The first few knives are gonna blow your mind with the possibilities you discover. Go nuts with that rebar. And get used to adding tools and such to the shopping list, there's a few you'll end up needing or wanting. And for a bit of encouragement, heres a couple pics, one of my first knife, and a couple of recent finished projects. You'll be amazed how quickly you'll improve! Also, another good use for that rebar, make tongs. Make all the tongs. You can't have too many tongs. They're perfect practice in a ton of the things you'll need to know, and they're useful to boot! (The bottom pic is my first knife)
  15. 1 point
    "Shaved Ape" LOL. That's classic Sam. Love it. Guys, please don't let Sam's "enthusiastic" rhetoric make you think he's being deliberately provocative. He really does know what he's talking about. He's just very, shall we say, emphatic about it. I think it has to do with being on TV all the time. Celebrity ego . . . you know. Grins, Dave
  16. 1 point
    Yes I do. I've run the one at New England School of Metalwork which was a horizontal, and had QUITE large ports. Honestly its it's worth it to spend the 200$ on the t-Rex burner. I tried the weed burner and another eBay burner which worked ok but just barely made temp. The t-Rex will make a honest forging temp down to sub 1000 temps. All with a very controllable heat and atmosphere. I've never seen it's equal in an atmospheric burner. And for every shaved ape that jumps in and says "don't spend that money just build one!" You couldn't build one as nice for as cheap and have help be an easy phone call away.
  17. 1 point
    For 3 plus years and 27 knives you are slaying it. Your dedication and education from the masters you are working with shows. I've been making for 10 years and have gotten no where close to this level of work. I'm glad you're posting.
  18. 1 point
    If you are talking about the clamping end then a fixed nut wouldn't allow for the head to turn as the clamping pressure is applied as it would try to turn what you were clamping as the fixed nut started to grip the surface and the other reason is that it would only allow for clamping paralell surfaces where this way it will swivel with the thread turning inside the clamping head as the pressure is applied and of course it will also clamp uneven angles. Also please note my name has two R's
  19. 1 point
    Listen to Sam. He succinctly pointed out what you need to do.
  20. 1 point
    I finally got the handle done. I wanted to try something like the seax fittings from the Staffordshire hoard with faux garnet cells. I carved the fittings out of wax. One of the nicest parts of doing this is you can fit the wax to the blade, which is way easier than doing it in metal. If you cut away too much you can just melt more wax in and reshape. The bronze shrinks about 2% when it cools so you have a nice tight fit with only a little bit of filing. These are the basic tools I used for making the cells in the collar. I cut the outline with the exacto knife, making a deep V-groove ( you can see one cell on the top that has the V's cut), then I use a very tiny half-round gouge to remove the bulk of the wax (oops, not in photo). The two scrapers in the picture are what use the flatten the bottom and square up the walls. I use the thin one to set the depth at the edges, and the bigger one for flattening the bottom. When done, I put them on a wax tree and cast them. I had some pictures of that but they keep failing to upload :-\ These are the cleaned up castings: For the garnets I used Colores epoxy from Rio Grande with the Durenamel hardener so I could sand it afterwards. It was a painful process and I'm still working out how to fill the cells on non-flat pieces. Once i get it figured out I'll post a demo. Hmmm... time to reboot as all the picture uploads are failing. More in a bit. So between the ferrules i did two chunks of bog oak with a moose antler ring in the middle. I cut the hole for the tang through the blocks first, the fit the ferrules and the antler ring . after the parts were all together I cut the block down to it's rough shape. Besides a belt grinder and a drill press, I mostly uses rasps and japanese wood files to shape the bog oak. I Next I carved a knot pattern in the bog oak. I laid out the pattern just like I do for wax - get it sized and a laid out on paper, then use spray adhesive to attach it to the piece. Cut the pattern lines in through the paper, then remove the paper as you carve: Because of the boar on the end of the handle I couldn't peen the tang over to hold the whole thing together. So what I did was thread the end of the tang, drill a 1/2" hole in the end of the handle to accommodate a washer, and put the whole thing together with acraglass and a nut. To attach the pommel I cut grooves around the inside of the ferrule and the tenon of the bog oak. You can see them in the picture above. My thinking was that when the acraglass dried even if it didn't adhere to the pieces it would harden into a shape that would lock in place. But being paranoid about strength I also pried out 3 of the faux garnets and drilled hole for 3 small nails. I hammered them in with a punch, refilled with garnet epoxy, and they were basically invisible. The final product is 28.5"/ 723mm overall, with a 19.75" / 500mm blade. It weighs 1.6 pounds. Next is the sheath...
  21. 1 point
    Glad to hear it wasn't worse! I always worry about those un-seen sparks. If I do quite a bit of it I try to make my way back to my shop to take a peek later. All it takes is one un-seen spark. I use to smoke, (I quit about 18 yrs. ago), anyway I get this guy pull up along side me at the red light and says, Dude their is something on fire in the back of your truck or underneath it. I turn and this large trail of smoke is coming from my truck. The light turns green and I head for the nearest parking lot and pull off. There were some rags in the bag of my truck from a job that were in a box in the back of my truck. I had thrown a cigarette from the cab at least 45 min., before that. The butt had to have went back into the bed and wedged against the box. It smoldered until the box corner had caught fire and when it burnt thru the box corner it hit the rags and the wind from going down the road had fanned the ember and well when I had stopped at the light or two before the rags soaked with stain, had ignited into a fire!! But again I always worry after doing a lot of grinding or welding, a spark can lay and smolder for some time before it ignites!!!! I try and position myself so the sparks are hitting the concrete. In the winter time when the leaves collect I sometimes take the hose after finishing and water down any of the area outside when done for the day!!! Inside the shop can be a real problem as well! A bit of sawdust piled up, rags wood, combustibles, etc. etc.! My friend once walked into my shop and says, my God man you are a fireman's worst nightmare!! We all do it paint, thinners, and other products we use in the making!! I have fire extinguishers in several places in my shop! This story is making me think about smoke detectors in the shop! Glad to hear you and family was OK!!! Sometimes its hard but you have to count your blessings for what could have been!
  22. 1 point
    The endpiece is glued and the handle sanded. [/IMG] Ruggero
  23. 1 point
    The first of those two is not right
  24. 1 point
    Two different belt positions.
  25. 1 point
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