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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Perhaps to defuse the situation, let's just focus on how to sharpen a scandi grind. Jigs or free hand, the journey there is a personal one and to each their own. No need to prove a point. Information is what benefits all.
  2. 1 point
    I found an 86 lb block of H13 steel on Ebay and it ran me $140, shipping included, to central Illinois from St. Louis. Traditionally, a knifemakers/sawmakers anvil were little more than blocks of steel or blocks of wrought iron with a steel face forge welded on. Granted, they don't have horns or hardy holes but those can be worked around. If you go the with the Ebay idea you will have to keep checking until you find what you want, especially if you want to get a square or rectangle. Just remember to set it up so that most of the mass is under the work. Doug
  3. 1 point
    This may help @Jeroen Zuiderwijk
  4. 1 point
    Scandi grinds (and saber grinds somewhat as well) lend themselves to jigs like this. With a full flat grind, you need some flexibility to get the grind all the way to the spine and have the edge thickness you want, but with a scandi you choose your angle and grind until the bevels meet in the middle and you get a burr. If my grinder had a halfway decent tool rest, I would definitely consider a jig. One thing I've learned is that a consistent angle on a scandi grind is critical to make a knife that is pleasant to use and maintain. If there are dips, convexity, or a change in angle, sharpening is going to be a PITA since you'll need to bring the whole bevel down to flat by hand. Unless you use some kind of jig/sharpening system (or take the old school approach of a very large diameter hollow grind) you'll need to touch up the grind up on a flat surface to get out the dips and remove the (very small) convexity from the flat platen.
  5. 1 point
    A friend of mine built a jig that he would clamp to the work rest of his 2x72. It consists of a piece of steel plate which leans toward the belt and it is set at the exact angle needed to create the scandi grind. You place the knife edge up against the steel plate and feed the knife into the belt, drawing it across lengthwise (like a regular grinding pass). You can mark a line on the fixture so that you have a marker for keeping the spine level. It creates a very even grind. Hell you could clamp something to the plate or make an adjustable fixture to rest the spine on. Anyhow, he grinds until he is down to zero, then changes out to a worn 300 grit belt, and then chases the wire across the edge. He then buffs the edge, and it is scary sharp.
  6. 1 point
    My little redemption blade after totally screwing up with last bowie over decarb and not knowing how to use my swanky new oven. 5" Blade 1095 from Also, hand forged and clay coated Gray g10 scales abs nickle silver pins. Lightly and springy. Gonna be scary with an edge. It was forged with my new digs from JJ Simon. I think that hammer just upped my whole game.
  7. 1 point
    Hi all, please see my new makers mark.
  8. 1 point
    Challenge project is in the clamps. Dun Dun Dunnnnnnnn. Had to add an osage wood spacer to account for drilling my holes too large in the 2nd brass piece learned a few things i should have done differently.. Like that i need to make more knives with ricasso's. My ricasso is a smidge big- as is the tang (height wise)
  9. 1 point
    The iron crust is the stuff you're looking for! Don't worry about mixing it, just smelt it.
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