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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/14/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Damage to a blade is the reason people get voted off. Dave hated that it was heavy, and took the invisible, but detectable by touch, damage as the reason to kick me out. Doug disagreed, hence the stink-eye during the final feedback where Dave says "we agree..." I only reinforced the handle that heavy because I was convinced they'd use the robo-arm to test the mace, instead of holding it by the sharp ax-side and swinging it full power. I was afraid a pneumatic tool might deform the handle, so it was a choice. I stand by it, not knowing how they'd test it and only watching previous tests of similar weapons. If I'd known, I'd still have given it a little reinforcement but not nearly that much, making it easier to wield. And maybe tempered 50-100 degrees cooler to leave the edge a little harder. But that's the game - you don't know what the tests will be, so you have to make choices on how to put it together. Doesn't mean one is wholly better than the other, just better tuned to the tests they choose. That I got that far, and was that close, as a hobby-smith against a guy who's been eating off this for 20 years with a beautiful shop and serious skills, made me very happy. I validated myself as a competent maker, skilled craftsman, and flexible worker in strange environments. That's what I really wanted, even though I could have used the money and wanted to win the show.
  2. 2 points
    I will give full credit for the inspiration for the seax to Owen Bush. I was at a conference with him back in 2013, and his lecture and demo on the seax, with Kentish notch, stuck in my brain forever. Prior to going on the show, I was hoping against hope that I could make that knife - it slices, it stabs, and it chops as well as any other design, and has the advantage of letting me show off my historical reproduction skills within the constraints of the show. I got lucky with the challenge, in that there was enough steel in that wrench jaw for me to do what I wanted, and it just became a task of forming it out to shape quickly. I was very happy with what I ended up with.
  3. 1 point
    My turn. 4 of us start out with pipe wrenches, and I'm one of the finalists to go home to build a Tabar-Shishpar, the goofiest combo weapon ever seen in history - an ax on one side, and a mace on the other end of a 3 foot metal pole. Tune if if you like, and let me know what you think after it's over.
  4. 1 point
    1084 falcata inspired fighter
  5. 1 point
    2 of Frosty's T burners may be too much in terms of space. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43976-t-burner-illustrated-directions/ That thread on ifi has all the possibilities for those to be properly set and you can feel free to ask him any questions you may have regarding your build. I'm not an expert by any means.
  6. 1 point
    Just watched it. Great job Chris. I loved how the hammer end of your axe punched a hole in that suit of "armor". I thought you carried the tests so I was a little confused by the decision. It really seemed like your weapon was more effective. Go figure. It was a pleasure watching you work, even what little that was shown. Note to future contestants: Light and fast is preferred over heavy and effective........
  7. 1 point
    I think you may want to back the torches out a little bit. If I am seeing it right, it looks as though the flares are actually inside the forge, which will. over time, consume them. It may also help alleviate serious hot spots from forming on your steel to some degree. From the reference pictures in that design document, his torches Ts are pretty far back from the body of the forge. Otherwise, its looks pretty sweet to me. Nice build.
  8. 1 point
    Well then Zeb, I really like where this is going. That small little habaki kicks ass. Great work so far
  9. 1 point
    Had an old blade lying around and wanted to try a wood hilt. Fun! But all new challenges.
  10. 1 point
    Got an early start today. ended up finishing the guard, polishing the blade, fitting the handle, and starting the pommel. I got a double hamon! Wait wuh? Did'nt know they existed. But here it is
  11. 1 point
    Colors observed in glowing steel are extremely subjective. What I call cherry red, someone else might think of as dull red. Same for every other shade out there. Ambient light levels screw all of them up for everybody. As far as heat treating goes, the "shadows" are all you really need (except for tempering, in which no color change is helpful, for the more common and basic alloys at least). The shadows are best thought of as an intensity of in brightness rather than color (as that is what it really is).
  12. 1 point
    Tommy, The "recalescence" he is correctly referring to is a visual indicator of the phase change sometimes called."the shadow". It is rather hard to describe but, like the first time you hear a rattlesnake buzz, the first time you see it, you'll recognize it from then on. IIRC in most common carbon steels used in knifemaking it occurs somewhere between non-magnetic and the next full color change in the blade. I'm probably wrong but would love to learn more myself.
  13. 1 point
    The best way to find the critical temperature without a thermocouple is to look for recalescence and decalescence. I used to keep a magnet near my forge for checking for non-magnetic, but unless you are using 1080/1084 it doesn't really tell you what you need to know. You can't go wrong with watching for the phase change, which works on every alloy. I no longer have a magnet near my forge, simply because I have no use for one there.
  14. 1 point
    Since you probably don't have a way to measure such high temperatures and you may not know what "critical tempetature is, you can usr a very basic trick. As steel heats it becomed non-magnetic. To avoid getting overly technical you want to heat the steel until a magnet will not stick to it, watch the color of the steel and let it just heat more until there is a noticable color change. You will use the same technique later when you have done all of your shaping and are ready to harden. This is sort of a primates method but usually effective. Tip:Don't have any sharp corners where two surgaces meet, like at a blade to tang juncture, before you harden. If you can send a pic begore you temper do so so we can help avoid trouble. B T W canola oil heated to just above comfortable to keep you finger in is the best bet and bang for the buck for quenching. My first decent knife was made from a file. I'm still making knives and learned a lot from that first one. Good Luck.
  15. 1 point
    There are several posts in the Metallurgy and Other Enigmas sub-forum that discuss Normalization of different steels. Basically, it is heating the steel up to somewhere past critical temp and letting it air cool. The temp ranges differ slightly for different steels, and sometimes you want to reduce the temperature in subsequent normalization cycles. The term "normalize" means returning the carbides in the steel to a "normal" state that is less structured than is present in heat treated steel, such as your file. What this process will do for you in the forging operation, is to reduce the steel to a "softer" less structured state prior to subjecting it to forging heats and hammering, which will in turn mess with the carbide structure again and require additional normalizing heats when you are through forging. If that hasn't completely confused you, someone is bound to chime in and correct whatever misinformation I have unknowingly given or add anything I have obviously forgotten. That should make the process as clear as mud........just check out any of the threads in Metallurgy that were written by Jerrod discussing the process. Can't go wrong with that.
  16. 1 point
    I would highly recommend doing a Google site search for any terms that you are unfamiliar with. This will serve you much better than the search function built into the forum. But in this case, a normalize is a heating and cooling cycle where the part is heated above the critical temperature and allowed to cool naturally in still air to a black temperature (generally 1000F is good). No quenching liquid, no blown air, not pressed between metal plates, no need to slow the cooling rate by leaving in in a forge/fire or buried/covered in an insulator.
  17. 1 point
    Someone of this forum once sent me this link about working with files. http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/Old_Files_New_Knives.pdf
  18. 1 point
    Normalize (probably best to do 2-3 times) Forge to shape (optional, grind off file teeth prior to forging) If forged: normalize 3 times Grind/file/sand to shape Quench and temper (temper at least 2 cycles)
  19. 1 point
    Peter is spot on with his analysis! In my research with original blades, which ranges from 15th to 18th century european blades, a constant bevel angle is a rare thing. To get good handling in fencing, the cross section curve will be necessarily nonlinear, this implies a constantly changing bevel angle along the blade. This applies to all swords - two-handers, sideswords, rapiers, smallswords and others that are intended for proper fencing as described in the various treatises! (Meat cleavers like Pallasches and some cavalry sabers are exempt from this, there the momentum in swinging cuts is the focus of design) Usually the cross section curve has a double S-shape. The cross section at the hilt is big and drops significantly within the first 1/5th of the blade, then stays level for some time before dropping again before about a 1/3rd from the tip, then tapering out towards the point (see picture, a very nice Juan Martinez rapier blade from around 1600) With a linear taper, handling will always be less than optimal and many people try to correct things through the weight of the pommel which makes matters worse. A good blade will handle well without tiring the arm too much if you try it on its own without hilt, grip and pommel. If it doesn't, it never will. If you close your eyes, the subjectively felt weight will be in the 1/3rd closest to the hilt. Here are some cross section diagrams of original blades: Various one handed swords Some big two-handers:
  20. 1 point
    The only thing I'm really upset they didn't show, especially since Mark welded a flat-edged ax to the round handle, was me drifting that dang hole by hand. I had the 10 pound hand sledge shaking the shop off the gravel punching that thing in hot, while my competition just merrily machined his way along never breaking a sweat.
  21. 1 point
    Rudimentary electro-etching. Same design, positive/negative space on each face. The bright lines are just polished briefly with a stone after hitting the surrounding area with super-blue. The graven side was just done with tape and an x-acto knife, the other was masked with asphaltum. Battery charger, Q-tip, and FC for etchant.
  22. 1 point
    Blade from Ondrej. Cutting edge from old file, back from Wrought iron damascus. 130mm long, 29mm high und 6mm thick. Handle from Wenge wood, carved. With brass and carved moose antler. Carved leather sheath with brass fittings. 390 USD incl. shipping. [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Ruggero
  23. 1 point
    Just watched it late last night. You done good, sir! Snuck in a seax, with the Kentish notch no less; deliberate differential heat treatment, actually tested the steel before HT, and didn't forget to pein the tang! What was that going on on the axehead? I couldn't tell, but in some lights it looked like khoftgari, in others niello, and once like silver inlay. And I agree, the final judgement was moot.
  24. 1 point
    Post ICCE I got a few pieces done that customers were waiting for. First off, the third of the bespoke butchering and skinning knives. Ironwood 80crv2 7.5 inch blade This one is a beast, it's over a 1/4 thick at the spine, flat taper to the edge. The edge has just a barely there secondary bevel with just a bit of an convex grind over the final 1/4". It's for chopping bone. The tang is full thickness, but is milled out with a small bridge in the center. It's got zero flex. It should just eat up bone. The handle is a book matched block with the nice grain on both sides. The second was made for a forum member and is at the other end of the spectrum. BL 4" OL 8" 1080 Elk with mosaic pins Thanks Geoff
  25. 1 point
    I just got these from Chuck Ward, good pics make all of the difference Push Dagger About 3 1/2 inches of low layer damascus, some white bone and domed stainless pins Stag Bowie 7/12 inches of 1080, some nice old Stag, bloodwood, osage and some textured NS Geoff
  26. 1 point
    Hi All, reading some local news articles made me interested in saxen history, this included the clans running around where i live. The logo of the "area" is interesting, a back or white horse. This horse dates back to 743-807 where Windukind was leader of the saxens and opposed the Frankish king Karel de Groot during the saxenwar. They say it was his black horse that came back from battle and after the defeat against Karel de Groot, Windukind rode a white horse that became the banner of the area "Twente". a nice example of history that still continues to exist. So i decided to make a seax, "yet another seax", why not they rock. To include some oldness/authenticity i used a antiek barrow wheel for the spine. I thus now dont know for sure but suspect its made from wrought iron. Mid section is made of strips mild steel. Edge is random file damask welded length wise, no twist. Today i got the pre-HT product finished i think, unless i have to make some last min adjustments according to historical accuracy (almost dare not post .....comments are appreciated ) Also done a quick etch to show the patern, it seems okey according to my planning. For now i am happy wrought iron? The left one is the seax Normalizing after forging - also b4 HT 10 1/2 inch blade almost 2 inch wide
  27. 1 point
    Yes, it is a common strategy and it becomes more common and more pronounced in later periods. I must also stress that you will find many examples that do not have this type of taper to a noticeable degree. Below you will see four examples of swords of the same basic type that show variations in distal taper: composite, convex and concave (but no simple straight taper). Another thing to take away from this is that if you only have two or three measurements of thickness of the blade, you will completely miss this important element of design.
  28. 1 point
    Wes, it is a combination of things. First of, the blade was not perfectly even in distal taper to begin with. This is normally the case (some ±0.1 mm variation is typical). Secondly, a sword may suffer damage during use that affects also thickness, but this is rare. Finally and most importantly, the degree of corrosion plays a role. Corrosion naturally eats away thickness but it might also swell thickness in places by build up or delimitation. In this case the sword also had some iron inlay in the fuller. It is rather common to see the area of the iron inlay being overground in some places. The fuller can be made wider and the ridges on either side slightly thinner. However, the drastic drop in thickness at the base is a design feature that this blade shares with many other blades, not a result of corrosion, or mistakes in the making. It is a feature that on Japanese blades is known as "Fumbari" if I am not mistaken. It is an effective strategy in dealing with blade stiffness in impact and bending stresses. It also helps making the main body slightly more lean without loosing rigidity or resiliency and thus allows you to make a lighter blade. A blade with composite distal taper will be more agile and handle smoother. It will feel lighter in the hand than a blade with a more constant distal taper.
  29. 1 point
    Just in case anyone else was trying to visualize the data Peter listed, here is a plot of it:
  30. 1 point
    Migration and Viking period blades tend to have subtle distal tapers, but it is still rare to find blades without this. The fact that it is mild should not be taken that it is unimportant. As a rule these blades taper both in width and thickness and it is worthwhile to spend some time to note just how they do this. The effect may be surprising. There is very little published on distal tapers. The info you find on the net is mostly inferred from ideas of what swords *should* be rather than facts. Thickness, cross section and distal taper of sword blades are the key features for the character and performance of the weapon. This holds true for most any type of sword. One example of a pattern welded blade: Total length of blade: 802 mm Width at base: 55.4 mm Thickness (in mm) at 50 mm intervals from base to point: 6.8, 5.9, 5.7, 5.7, 5.7, 4.7, 4.6, 4.9, 4.9, 4.6, 5.0, 4.8, 4.3, 3.9, 4.2, 4.1, 2.5 If you plot this out as a graph you will see the trend of the distal taper conforming fairly well to the basic principle I outlined above. The distal taper is not very even and part of this is from rust damage (=pits in the surface). The blade was not much thicker originally. Most measurements were taken in spots that were close to original surface. Total weight of this weapon is 1353 gram and a total length of 945 mm. I might add that the base thickness on 6.8 is unusual thick. This blade also has a fairly deep fuller. Many blades start out 4.5 - 5.5 mm. Hope this helps.
  31. 1 point
    The distal taper, or tapering in thickness is rarely straight in most blades. As a starting point it is useful to divide the blade into 5 equal parts. Let the first 1/5 have a drastic distal taper, the next 2/5 have a moderate or minimal distal taper and give the last 2/5 a distal taper that is less severe than the first but more than the mid part of the blade. This lay out of the distal taper will give you a lively blade that is stiff for its weight. Needless to say, there are many variations to this and you have to tweak the proportions of the parts and the severity of the distal tapers according to blade type, cross section and dimension of the blade. As a starting point, or rule of thumb, it works well however :-)
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