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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/17/2017 in all areas

  1. 1080 /15N20 twisted crushed W's with stainless fittings and Turkish Walnut handle. Tried to make the sheath match the handle.
    3 points
  2. One of the traits this forum has that makes it unique in the world of forums, is the lack of "talking down" to people and belittling them publicly. These two comments are out of place here and should be redacted. Please keep your comments civil.
    2 points
  3. There has been a bad rash of the sales guy in charge of this and I not being around at the same time for me to discuss this with him. I should be able to get numbers by the end of this week though. The biggest problem may be the payments. I may have to buy a lot of them myself, then sell them on my own. I certainly haven't lost sight of this project and will update as soon as I know what can and will be done.
    1 point
  4. You are, as Grandpa would say, "in the cat birds seat". All that useful recyclable steel and probably access to welding gear. My mind spins with possibilities . I see your small anvil has a Hardie hole. With torsion bars and even a tire iron or two you could make some serious Hardie tools, cutoffs, fullers, spring fullers etc, appropriately sized. You can develop some serious gear for making hunting/edc size knives with that nice set up you have as well as building a useful skill set. I am completely optimistic (and wish I could have started off as well) about your first blade and where you co
    1 point
  5. This will likely be the case for you. The only wrench that I have run on the spectrometer wasn't a Craftsman, but actually a higher end (I'm sure everyone has seen their trucks driving around to mechanics shops ). That wrench was only 1040 (once I got through the chrome plating and possibly a carburized layer, I had to grind through a lot to get a good surface to analyze). I would start by a triple normalize. The best way to achieve this is not with a magnet, but looking for recalescence and decalescence. The quench in vegetable/canola oil that is pre-heated to about 130F. The point of p
    1 point
  6. I’ve never worked with wrenches, but if it were me I would heat treat it like any simple steel... normalize by heating to non magnetic, let it cool to black color, repeat 3 Times. On the third time let it cool to room temp. Next heat the blade just over non magnetic and quench in veggie/canola oil. Next temper the blade in your oven two 1 hour cycles at 375-400 Fahrenheit. It’s probably not made of a great steel but why not give it a shot? It will be good practice for when you buy known steel. (Which will most likely to be a simple steel) it really doesent matter since it’s your firs
    1 point
  7. Some of you may know this and others not, but each year I like to do some type of Halloween themed knife, and while it may be early on yet in the year, I wanted to make sure it was done in time for this Halloween. A few years back I did my Van Helsing Bowie which was based around several elements of the Van Helsing legends/ stories. This is what I had come up with: Pretty much from the moment I finished the Van Helsing bowie I wanted to do its brother in the style of Dracula. Each time I attempted this project I found my skills lacking for what I wanted the end result to b
    1 point
  8. I just did this little adjustment on my phone. I think maybe ditch the finger groove and instead go for a very slight palm swell. So, contrary to my poor drawing it would'nt get bigger in the back, but sort of flow into the guard better.
    1 point
  9. Chris, When I'm working with handle material like ivory I will either simply glue the pins (after grinding them with an 80 grit for extra glue surface) or use a head spinner depending on whether I want a flush surface or not.
    1 point
  10. 2 of Frosty's T burners may be too much in terms of space. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43976-t-burner-illustrated-directions/ That thread on ifi has all the possibilities for those to be properly set and you can feel free to ask him any questions you may have regarding your build. I'm not an expert by any means.
    1 point
  11. I think you may want to back the torches out a little bit. If I am seeing it right, it looks as though the flares are actually inside the forge, which will. over time, consume them. It may also help alleviate serious hot spots from forming on your steel to some degree. From the reference pictures in that design document, his torches Ts are pretty far back from the body of the forge. Otherwise, its looks pretty sweet to me. Nice build.
    1 point
  12. Yeah, I've been there (and Sequoia/Kings Canyon). Those are some big trees!
    1 point
  13. Blade from Ondrej. Cutting edge from old file, back from Wrought iron damascus. 130mm long, 29mm high und 6mm thick. Handle from Wenge wood, carved. With brass and carved moose antler. Carved leather sheath with brass fittings. 390 USD incl. shipping. [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] [/IMG] Ruggero
    1 point
  14. Well the final photos just got in from Caleb and I think he really did the piece justice. Here she is finally done and just in time for Halloween. And the other side of the handle: Thank you everyone for following along on this build and Happy Halloween!
    1 point
  15. Thanks for the comment Alan, it actually sparked much of the design of this knife. I was at a local gem show looking for fossil ivory and came across a handful of these beautiful stones, once purchase I ran home to begin designing. Now today is nearly the last day in a mountain of work to get this knife done. In my eagerness to finish I did not document the process as well as I could have, but hopefully it will make sense. First thing I had to do was stitch the sheath together and trim the edges. Now with the structural sheath done I have to start on the frog
    1 point
  16. Thanks guys I appreciate the comments, I'm glad you are enjoying the thread. Here is today's progress. Today was mostly about the sheath but I also wanted to finish darkening the background of the carving with the charcoal and oil mixture I talked about earlier. It wasn't getting the results I wanted (I believe because the ivory is so dense or the charcoal powder wasn't fine enough) so I opted for a leather dye and this worked very well. Then I had to practice stone setting. The plan is to place some blood red T-rex shin bone as the broach for the sheath. This i
    1 point
  17. Thanks for the comment Garry I'm glad you are enjoying the build. Today I finished up the carving. First we have the carving before it was scraped. I used charcoal and oil to darken the background. Then after a bit of scraping I added the touch of the dragon by very carefully heating the ivory to color the carving. I tested this method on several scraps before doing it on the actual knife and so long as you control your temperatures I have not noticed any ill effects to the ivory. And aside from a bit of cleaning and the odd touch up here
    1 point
  18. Thanks guys! Working in Matt's shop was a great experience, I learned a ton! But there is so much more to learn! Now to the most recent update. First I had to begin cleaning up the casting with files, wire wheels, and carbide tools. I am trying to get a heavily aged effect with this piece so sharp precise lines are kind of the enemy. Unfortunately I got caught up in the process and did not document the refining process well, the above photo is the casting after running over it with a wire wheel.. But after getting the desired finish it was time to distress and pati
    1 point
  19. This type of lost wax casting was 100% new for me. I have done sand casting in the past but other than that it was all new. Due to my ignorance I opted for going to a more experienced friend's shop, if you don't know Matt Berry you should as his viking work is awesome and his castings are superb! Matt very kindly welcomed me into his shop and walked me through the whole process. The first thing we had to do was sprue up the waxes I had made. The sprue will create the channel for the molten metal to flow through. Then we placed them in the flasks th
    1 point
  20. Thanks Scott! This is all flying by the seat of my pants as I have no clue what I am doing with carving or wax, but it will hopefully turn out alright. Here is another small update on the knife. I am still working on the wax to have everything ready for casting this week or early next week. All of the fittings will be cast from shibuichi (an alloy that is approximately 25% sillver and the remainder is copper). To start off the center of the guard is finally roughed to shape. Then the decorative elements are carved in and the fossil ivory handle is finally fit up.
    1 point
  21. Thanks Garry! Another small update on the wax carving, the guard should be complete by the end of today, and the butt cap and finial should be done by Friday, then on to casting. But here is where the guard stands after refining the one side and starting the other. Then carving mostly done on the other side: Lastly I seated the guard up further on the knife and now need to tweak and correct certain aspects on the center of the guard. Thanks for looking! -Robert
    1 point
  22. Just a small update today. So when planning for this knife I knew I wanted to use shibuchi for the guard and but plate (in the same way I did on the Van Helsing Bowie), but with this one being more refined and complicated I decided to try my hand at lost wax. This is my first time carving wax and it really has been fun beginning to learn the process, definitely something I want to do more of in the future. First I made the rough cuts in the wax and roughly fit the tang. I also cut my wax too short on the back part of the guard, but as I learned that is very easy to fix. First th
    1 point
  23. OK. I like what I am seeing! I got to ask though, why the nickel line?? I assume that is the line in this pic!
    1 point
  24. Thanks guys, I was able to finish the carving today and do the etch. Overall I am pretty pleased with the pattern and look on the blade. Here is the finished carving: And then the etch:
    1 point
  25. Thanks guys! Joshua I wish it was only a day! But my hope is to have the blade etched tomorrow and ready for the guard which there will be quite a delay on I think. Here are a couple of last photos from today (my wife is away so I can work late into the night ) I wanted to add some metal carving to this blade so that is what I have done. This first side is now all finished to a base 400 grit.
    1 point
  26. Dude! You're on fire, and in a good way. Pinned!
    1 point
  27. And this post should bring everything up to date. First I forged the tang. My intention is to do this as a take down construction hence why the tang is so long. Now that I have something to hold on to I can cut the billet free from the handle and check the state of the welds. Looks good to me, now to cut the rough lines of the point. (This will allow me to bend the pattern back in line with the flow of the blade.) Now I begin the rough forging: And a quick etch on that corner piece to see some pattern.
    1 point
  28. Now for the other bars I wanted to have them be a more basic pattern so I about twenty layers and three billets of JR evenly placed throughout. This was then welded together, drawn out and cut for re stacking: Then to add some additional interest, I added .30" W2 in between the layers, this was then drawn out to almost 50 inches of 1/2 inch square bar: I gave these bars a Turkish twist configuration so every other bar twists the opposite direction from the previous one. After bein
    1 point
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