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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/27/2017 in all areas

  1. For a while, now, I've been working on a surprise project for my grandfather, and now his knife--the Neal Farm Knife--is finished! It's far from perfect, but what it lacks in perfection I would like to think it makes up for in character. The blade was forged from the drive shaft of a piece of equipment on my grandpa's farm (yes, I tested it, and it hardens very well), and the handle was made from a piece of Osage Orange (hedgeapple wood) that grew on the farm, and which he often used to make fence posts. You can see the leftover steel and wood in this photo, as well. I left the blade, includin
    3 points
  2. First, it's Keyes, confusing I know, and it's worse than that, since it's pronounced K-eyes. This is just in case anyone actually cares. . This is the guy to talk to about Fisher anvils https://www.facebook.com/FisherAnvils. He is the curator of the Fisher-Norris museum. As I understand it, the faces of Fisher anvils were poured in place, there may or may not have been some pins to hold everything in place. By pouring the cast iron directly on the tool steel face they got a solid weld of the face to the body. The bodies were made in two pieces with a joint at the waist. I'm no
    2 points
  3. Tomarrow I need to crank out yet another bowie, and since I am totally out of abrasives I will have the rest of the weekend to start forging a 3rd project after that. So, I was doodling earlier I was thinking of a sword from the album cover of one of my favorite heavy metal bands. It had a bit of choil on the front which I really liked. And I was thinking about some of the beautiful hand and a half swords on the forum, hamons, S guards, and my recurve bowie shapes. I don't think it should have a blade over 24". Anyways, what do you guys think?
    1 point
  4. Hello everyone. Finally something (allmost) ready. Puukko with turkish walnut handle and brass fittings. Blade is german springsteel. Sheath will be ready later. I will add the pictures then. Hope you like it...Best regards..Lauri
    1 point
  5. Have made up a pair of these and am pleased with how they feel in hand. The hunter butcher has a 4 1/2 inch 1095 blade with buffalo horn bolster and blackwood handle with a flaired butt end for greater directional controll, while the boner has a 4 inch 1095 blade and a simple losenge shaped blackwood handles as it will often be used from the bottom of the hand as often as it is from the top of the hande for boning out. They will both come in standard carry sheaths. Am gong to make a few sets and will see how they are recieved. I have "discovered" a new way of finishing the handles and now sit
    1 point
  6. If it worked here's the design.
    1 point
  7. Sorry, just had flashback to the Monty Python sketch with a Mr. Raymond Luxury-Yacht being interviewed by a reporter who pronounced it the way it's spelled. Mr. Luxury-Yacht (Graham Chapman) says "No, no..." and the reporter (Michael Palin) says "sorry, Mr. Raymond Luxury Yachet." Chapman then insists it's pronounced "throat-warbler Mangrove," at which point Palin says "You're a looney." This non sequitur brought to you by my feeble brain...
    1 point
  8. I love the fact that there is so much knowledge available about these old anvils. I am seriously considering doing some kind of annotation of the info and permanently putting it in the memo portion of my phone so I have a quick reference for that day when fate puts me and an old anvil up for sale in the same place. BTW I am a lifetime of tired with people trying to pronounce my name as "WYmer". Where were they in grade school when it was explained that, with two consonants between two vowels, the first vowel is pronounced softly? When you jump in a pool are you a "SwYmer"? No! You are a "
    1 point
  9. Fisher faces are about an inch thick and include the step, the top of the horn, and the point of the horn. They have a large-ish square pin with deep notches on the corners in the center of the face that extends a few inches into the body, and I think there is another, smaller one inside the tip of the horn. There is also a lip around the bottom of the faceplate that helps key it into the iron. They are not pieced at the waist, I think you're getting confused with the later two-piece Hay-Buddens with the tool steel top half and cast steel base. Cast iron does not ring, which is why Fishers (
    1 point
  10. First of all I do care Geoff, names have never been one of my great abilities to remember. Faces now that is something I remember! Aw, don't feel bad Geoff, everyone thinks that the C Craft stands for Chris, when in fact it Cliff! But what the hey, as long as they don't call me late for supper, I am OK with that!! I did remember you were one the anvil guru's!!!
    1 point
  11. If you are happy with the handle, then that is all that matters. I love hearing other peoples opinions, but in the end, if it is something that I like, then I am going to stick with it. I have no interest in making what other people love (for the most part). Leave the handle as it is then. After the shading in your drawing giving it a little depth, it does look better. Stick with the original, or what ever makes you happy. As far as the keyhole, anything is worth trying once I guess. It might be difficult to get a super clean looking fit though. Most keyhole handles are brought supe
    1 point
  12. Uh Huh !! What Josh said !!!...................
    1 point
  13. I don't know that I like that handle, but nevermind that, I am liking that integral keyhole recurve bowie fighter thing above it.
    1 point
  14. Yeah baby! That is looking very sweet.
    1 point
  15. That makes two of us........ The third one down is Cocobolo and a frame handle with a thin (.04") piece of stainless. I argued with myself for two days about whether or not to do any filework on it and finally the wife said "how much are you going to charge for it?" The filework got the big pass...... Being that I am technically challenged when it comes to photography, this is the best I can manage. It's scrapmascus. It's made from the triangular cutouts from a W-patterned bar sandwiched between two pieces of pattern welded scrap that was collecting dust on
    1 point
  16. Thanks. Sheath is ready. That was a good piece of leather. Lauri
    1 point
  17. Now once the scale was off I had to take a look to see if there would be a pattern and was shocked at the amount of contrast from steel that I thought would almost be the same! But the high carbon edge bars came out nice and dark, and the little bits added to the core show a slow twist! and this was only at 60 grit Now the part we all dread was the quench... I really want sure what to do or expect with the steel or like my last try and not harden at all so I went with hot oil at first it worked and with only minor warpage too (got in trouble from the wife with the fire ball bu
    1 point
  18. So, I now work at the foundry that makes these. As we are about to "ship" (put them on our truck and drive about a block away to deliver them) a batch of these I did a bit of inspection. They look pretty nice, and the rebound is excellent (85-90% on a ball-bearing drop test). The biggest thing I am not thrilled about is that the horn doesn't really come to a point. It looks like the tip broke off, but I have seen the pattern and can assure you that they are all like that and it is intentional. Incandescent Ironworks does the last bit of grinding/polish on these, so maybe he does some more
    1 point
  19. Thank you Jan and Alan! I'm also in love with cast iron! Fantastic stuff but dirty to work with. Lots of grind powder, not at all like steel. Part II: Forging, grinding and test etch of the wootz The wootz: Made by Peter Swarz-Burt. Composition roughly 1,5% carbon, 0,5% chromium and 1,3% manganese. Using chromium and manganese as carbide seeds are a little uncommon. Most wootz seem to rely on vanadium for this thing but I think the manganese gives it good hardenability. My strategy for forging was to first make a preform with set distal taper (like I've
    1 point
  20. Although I have been a member of this forum for a while I haven't had much time to be active on here. I have recently made the move to full time blacksmithing so I have a little more time. Although knives and axes are my furst love I also forge kitchenware, fire tools, etc. I've included some pics of a knife and axe I have for sale as well as links to their etsy listing. To see more of my work go to www.shiraforge.com or my etsy store at www.etsy.com/shop/ShiraForge https://www.etsy.com/listing/526104294/forged-damascus-belt-knife-2-w-birch?ref=shop_home_active_8 https://www.ets
    1 point
  21. Hi everyone! Greetings from the forge.52100+copper+420.Sizes 205*30*5(mm) I`m recieving orders for such types of blades(and other).
    1 point
  22. Laminated blade with copper 95*28*4.8
    1 point
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