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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/16/2017 in all areas

  1. These were both for my table at NYCKS, the blades are two differnet patternes of mosaic damascus, we got a new shop mate here at Dragons breath forge, Mereko Maumasi he is a bit of a wizard with mosaic and some of his ideas have infected me. The spidy pattern came about after showing him the parent bar and he had an idea and drew out the pattern..looked so cool I went with it. the shooting star pattern was one i came up with, putting together some things I have been playing with along with some of Marekos methods. Totally looking forward to exploring these ideas further. the spidy patter
    2 points
  2. I made these for my table at NYCKS, but had Coop get photos before the show , good thing because the bird and trout went early on the first day. the hunter i 1084 with bronze and stablized maple, it is a full take down with the little tool in the photo. the bird and trout is 8670/1094 random damascus with nickel silver fittings and silver inlay in the tiger maple handle.
    2 points
  3. I got my Kanca 110 pound anvil today. Boy is it going to be a BIG step up from pounding on a vise. I have to finish mounting it to the big Elm stump. I'm excited. I need to learn how to properly dress the anvil. Anyone have any tips? One of my dogs was checking it out, too. Warner
    1 point
  4. I recently took a commission for a knife that I have done in the past and thought you might enjoy the progress on it. I'm sure that some of you will recognize the knife that I'm trying to recreate. I started with a piece of W1 steel: Normalizing: Profiled: Black walnut burl scales with .999 fine silver fittings: Engraving by Steve Dunn: I'll try to keep you updated on this as I progress. Gary
    1 point
  5. It's air hardening in thin sections, and hammering it is like hammering cold steel, but it makes a very tough and abrasion-resistant blade.
    1 point
  6. Practicing hammer control on just about any project is a good idea. Taking a square bar, forging it round, then square again is a great place to start for practice. Do it with intention too. Start with a 1" square, forge it to .75" round, then .5" square, then add a taper. Anything along those lines. Then start making tongs. No smith has ever had too many sets of tongs. Welcome to the madness. Have fun!
    1 point
  7. Best thing for that A2 is probably eBay. It is not forge friendly or easy to HT. It is expensive though, so you can get some capital for other tools/supplies!
    1 point
  8. Haha that is a VERY good point
    1 point
  9. I'm kind of thinking that in 10 years, if this thing even breaks down in that amount of time, I can find another stump on Craigslist for $5. But maybe that's just me. Warner
    1 point
  10. I wasn't planning on it. Should I? Warner
    1 point
  11. Also, you can squash a 2" pipe into a 1" x 3" oval. Comes in handy! Just be sure one end is capped and, as Charles said, it's not galvanized. I galvanized is all you can get, soak off the zinc in vinegar or muriatic acid. Note this may take a while on really thick hot-dipped galvanizing. It's better not to use that at all.
    1 point
  12. I sure could.....but honestly, my opinion is not an educated one so I'm not sure how much value it would be to anyone. I did do a fair amount of research and consideration before I went this route. Used anvils, with my lack of experience, were scary....and EXPENSIVE. So I went with a brand new, drop forged German style anvil. Kanca does a LOT of the forging for many auto manufacturers, and if I'm not mistaken, they are also forging the Peddinghaus anvils now. So it should be a high quality anvil. The German style, with the bulk of its weight under the face of the anvil, should make it pe
    1 point
  13. Bulk stores are your friends
    1 point
  14. I'm going to tell you what I tell everyone with a "new" anvil. It doesn't matter if it's new to you or brand new, like this one. Do nothing to it. Use it for a year. If after that time there are things you really don't like, fix those things. It's much harder to put metal on an anvil than it is to take it off. Having said that, you may find something right away that doesn't work for you. Fix what you have to, don't do ANYTHING you don't have to, even if someone tells you to. Just my .02 Geoff
    1 point
  15. I did some more leveling with some 2x4's screwed in as a guide for the chainsaw. It's as close as I'm going to get it. It's not like my garage floor is perfectly level either. I also started removing the bark....even getting THAT off of Elm is tough.
    1 point
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