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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/22/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Well have some work to show as of now, I weld and polish a lot of stainless steel for my day job so lack the motivation to come home and polishing a sword but it's at a point that's showing off the blade construction and the hearth steel so I'm happy! Also been carving the handle and getting all the pieces to fit which is time consuming work. Without rushing it the goals to finish before the new year, and maybe spend another 6 months making a sheath hahah
  2. 1 point
    Hi All: Here's a little dagger I just finished. I recently had some pretty heavy stuff go down in my life, so I started thinking of this as my "therapy dagger," while I was working on it to keep my mind occupied with positive things. The blade is from an end cut of a composite blade I made a while ago. It has 1200 layer edges, and a 20 layer center bar, rotated 90 degrees. On the original PW blade the center bar was twisted. This was the end of the bar. You can see how the center bar fanned out toward the tip. Kind of a cool effect, I think. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Copper fittings, chemical patina for the dark bits, blackwood grip. It's about 7" OAL. Hope all is well with everyone! Happy Holidays! Dave
  3. 1 point
    first time carving boxwood for a number of years. Man, this stuff is nice to work...
  4. 1 point
    OK, now you've got; Boot dagger, Wharncliffe, Sheepsfoot, Drop point paring knife, And, one of my favorites, a scaled down (slightly),Russel Canadian pattern.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    You mean water does not erupt in flames when quenching??!!
  7. 1 point
    Yep. Most people don't use mild steel in damascus, it lowers the overall carbon content more than most like. That blend of 1084 and 15N20 is pretty foolproof, depending on the fool of course... Both those alloys have similar carbon content and the same heat treat requiremens, so you won't lose carbon or worry about it coming apart in the quench.
  8. 1 point
    Hey Wes! Thanks for the felicitations. I got the Lauer brand manganese phosphate parkerizing concentrate gallon from Midway supply, seemed like the best price for a recommended product. It's worked great, a gallon has lasted me about a year, and that's with some negligence on my part. Only needing to re-up now. They sell pre-dip solution too, but the ferric chloride you already have on hand works just fine.
  9. 1 point
    After a few touch-ups on the hilt, I made the collar spacer and the wood handle core. The handle is made from ash and will be leather wrapped. Now, I have a good idea on the size of the pommel, so I can now work on the mold form for casting.
  10. 1 point
    I agree totally with Daniel. Big steel will wear you out and hurt you. Start small and work up.
  11. 1 point
    1 inch square OUCH!!! think smaller for starting. 1/4 to 3/8 will teach you more hammer control than larger stock in my opinion. its easy to burnish a bigger piece of steel because of it's resistance to the hammer blows. Something smaller will teach you how to be nice and gentile, will build up some mussel memory in that your concentrating on not hitting with all your might, and just letting the hammer do the work. you'll also get a better idea of how to work with your heat. 1in will keep a good bit of heat, where smaller stock will teach you how to be quick about where to hit. After sometime, you'll also find ways to keeping your heat in the smaller stock with some hammer techniques. my first project was a leaf hook (spade like leaf) and its probably the best project to start with because it teaches 4 principles. tapering, scrolling, isolating mass, spreading mass. but be prepared - the leaf will be the hardest thing you every try to make look right . . . ever. The guy how taught me said it took him 30 years to make a nice leaf and he's still learning.
  12. 1 point
    Mixed species ladder patterned steel.
  13. 0 points
    It starts out with a truckload of bovine excrement.......
  14. 0 points
    Not unless you know "the secret".
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