Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I'm sure someone has done something like this, but I didn't see anyone show their progress, so here goes nothing. I have a piece of CPM 154 for the blades/tools and some 410 stainless for the liners. The plan is to get all of the pieces cut out and rough-ground in the next few days while I have some time then heat treat them when I can use my school's materials science lab. Did a 3D model to check for interferences and make sure none of the tangs will poke out of the handle. Some of the hole locations will be informed by the drawings, some will be a result of trial-fits. The order of operations for this knife will matter a lot. Made a template-sheet with centers marked out so I can get cutting. The sheepsfoot will need to be ground down by the thickness of the liner stock for clearance reasons. The cutouts in the liners and nail-nicks will also be done once everything is put together so I can make sure all the clearances are spot on. There's a lot of interesting mechanical things about this type of knife (like the floating springs) that I'll try to explain as I go, but I'm definitely still learning.
  2. 1 point
    All goes together! Needs some small refinements to fit, then on to finishing! Also, the blades are still at 62.5, so they get one more cycle.
  3. 1 point
    Casey...Yakut (an offensive Russianism,btw,so from here on out Saha,as that's what these people are called),have practiced ironworking for a Very long time.Possibly introducing it to the many tribes inhabiting Sibiria. Thanks to the internet,and the Russians following in the footsteps of Western knife collectors and bladesmiths,Saha knives became a fashionable subject,hype you may say. MOST of what you find on the internet is out and out horse$hit,pardon my French.So,IF you're seeking after any degree of authenticity,you must be very,Very selective. First,i'd recommend that book just published by the Smithsonian,where they show the collections of Valdemar Johelson(i've no time to dig for links right now,but can later if you'll have tough time finding it,it'll have connections with Jesup North Pacific Expedition). There you'll find the many different types of Saha knives.They each have a name,and are built for very different jobs.But very roughly one must at least learn to distinguish between the narrow-,and the wide-fullered ones. (The fuller,btw,was never left nasty.That is one of the silly emotionally-based takes of the uninformed on the style.It was scrupulously finished(as was the entire knife-Extremely well thought-out+executed). Secondly,here's the one maker who does not take any silly liberties with the original shapes et c. Watch as many videos by him as you can.He does speak some English,and may answer some of the questions,his name is Aleksey. And very briefly:Yes,the back is totally convex,and the front-flat(for sharpening).The convex back gets corrected at sharpening,but minimally. All that is important.Afterall,you're copying a cultural artefact(and an iconic one at that;imagine if some Saha dude was trying to paint a Coca-Cola bottle,and ad-libbing at it in a funny way:). Best of luck.
  4. 1 point
    I like the shorter spring that you used. Seems like it would have less chances to pop out and hit you in the face. I have seen some longer ones and they look scary. It is looking good for sure!
  5. 1 point
    I did some next steps: guled slightly the edges and curved a groove. On the other side I made a groove after making the holes, to make sure the stitch is gonna fit the grooves on both sides. Two needles with a braided and waxed thread. I used threads of approx. 170% of lenght of the stitching line and it was just enough. Then I ground the edges with sand paper and polished with water and some wood tool from the kitchen I'm going to put some brass plates, copper rivets and one loop to hang on the belt.
  6. 1 point
    More progress from last night! Today is my last day to work for a while, so these need to be ready for heat treat pretty quick. Primary blade lapped flat. Next I lapped the secondary so that it's tang and the liner equal the thickness of the primary blade. I've shown this jig before, basically you zero the indicator with a blade open, then close it and remove material until you zero it. Like so. Things are starting to come together! I still need to taper the blades a bit so they congress a bit better with no rubbing and finalize the bend on the primary. This is that nail-nick trick I mentioned earlier. The results aren't as quite as crisp they would be with a dovetail cutter or a chisel/die, but they are pretty consistent once you get the hang of it. All that's left before heat treat is to polish the tangs and some other stuff up to 400 grit and taper the blades a bit so there's more room inside the blade well.
  7. 1 point
    The design is based off of the tinker with a few changes: longer handle and main blade, sheepsfoot instead of the small spear, and no key ring. I've had a little experience with krinking when I made my stockman, I ground the blades off center and applied a bit of a bend to one of them. In this case I'm going to take the trick of using a half liner with a 1/16" blade sharing a spring with a 3/32" blade to get some extra clearance. I'll try to get some good pictures showing the strange workings of floating springs as well. Yeah, especially when I have a long time I can't work on knives, I get all sorts of big ideas (I'll finish that lock-back some day, I swear!). Definitely had to make sure my beard was trimmed short for this project . All the parts layed-out on my fancy steel (managed to get my school to reimburse me for it too!). Note that all the parts which require extensive grinding are buddied up. This makes them easier to hold on to and grind. Here's where things get tricky: the spring holding the blades is going to be 0.092", and the other spring is going to be 0.082", to slim down the knife and make the openers less blocky. Finally, the secondary blade gets two layers of liner, so it needs to be 0.033" thinner than the main blade. This means things need to be ground to rough thicknesses which will be lapped down to 0.092", 0.082", and 0.059". Yikes. A surface grinder would be perfect, but I got it to within 0.001" using a disk sander and calipers. Everything's rough ground except the small features, ready for the tangs to be shaped.
  8. 0 points
    I knew Larry Sandlin personally growing up. He was a good friend of my fathers. He made some of the most beautiful hand carved violins I've ever seen and I remember him forging these beautiful blades and taking them to knife shows in Atlanta, GA. If anyone has any pics of some of his work please share them. I made this post for some closure on people wondering what ever happened to Larry. He lost his battle with lung cancer in 2005. He was one of the most talented men I've ever known.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...