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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/06/2018 in all areas

  1. I finally finished my first viking sword that I made all-by-myself. The big challenge on this one is that wide shallow fuller - I've never done that before and it looks difficult to get right. Here's the sword blank (1075 steel) with the bevels forged in. I shaped the initial blank with the power hammer, and then hand forged the tip and the bevels. I didn't take a picture, but the bevels are forged in with a spring tool whose dies are radiused to 6". Here's the result: Slightly crooked, but it gets a lot of the steel to the right areas and significantly widened
    2 points
  2. Hello: A construction update...well I got the insulation installed..There is so much foil showing that I feel like the world's largest Hershey's Kiss...At least it is keeping all of those e-vile mind control rays out that the gubbermint wants to use to control me....Yeah...that's my story and I am sticking to it...Plus it makes it almost too bright inside with all the lights on..all the reflection and SLTT...but it is done and now I can go onto the other stuff... I already have a good start on the work benches... and I still have like 3 more to make...after that it is tool racks and
    2 points
  3. Well that is why we live in a world of choices. I know some hunters that want a hardness level in their knife that makes it easy to sharpen others I know want a harder level so they don't have to sharpen as often. There is really no pedantic chart that says "this kind of blade has to be exactly this Rockwell hardness number" . It would be pretty boring if there was.
    1 point
  4. I wondered how you did the nagel. Either forging it separately and then brazing it on or, as you did, preform it and then forge it from there. Doug
    1 point
  5. Well, you've definitely got some nice movement. It looks a lot more organic than mine did! I am not sure how you could have got a greater amplitude of the oscillations without using the cutting triangle method. Looking forward to what it looks like finished! James
    1 point
  6. Brian, there isn't really anything that I would compare it to. I've never worked in Mulberry, but that is a close relative. The finish on the handle is 220 sandpaper and a buffed Carnauba wax. I love the changes it goes through. I was reintroduced to a knife I made several years ago (which this is loosely based on). The earlier one had gone to a deep mahogany brown and was being used as a kitchen knife. g
    1 point
  7. Brian, Osage Orange is a great wood to work with. The only problem with it is that your whole work shop will be covered with a fine yellow dust from cutting and sanding it. It seems to coat every surface. Doug
    1 point
  8. "If we are up for it" he says. Now there's a silly question! Post away my friend I am sure we are eager to see how this came about.
    1 point
  9. Thanks for the extra info Steve. A question if I may. Assuming the locator pins go into the antler, how did you make sure they were straight?
    1 point
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