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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I've been working on a pipe tomahawk head and finished up the filing on Sunday. After taking the last few strokes with a 3" needle file, and seeing the 16" mill bastard next to it, I thought it would be of interest to some to see the results of drawfiling the way I do, the end result, and every single file I used on the project. First, drawfiling. For hawk heads, there's really not a good way to finish them totally on the grinder because of all the odd curves and stepped lines. Well, maybe if I had a small wheel attachment, but not as I am currently set up. I forge to shape, remove the scale and rough profile with an angle grinder, then use the belt grinder to rough in the surfaces, although it's not strictly necessary. Once the scale is gone you can jump straight to filing, I made hawks that way for eight years before I got the belt grinder. Once I have it as flat as it's gonna be on the belt grinder (36, 60, and 80 grit zirconia followed by A300, A160, A65, and A45 trizact), it's time to drawfile. I start with the 16" mill bastard, which immediately shows where the belt grinder did not make it truly flat. Then to the 12" mill bastard, then on to the six-inchers. Mill bastard, Mill 2nd cut, then mill smooth. After the last strokes with the 6" mill smooth, it's ready for 220-grit paper. I originally took this picture to show the carbon migration from the 1084 edge steel to the wrought iron body, but then I realized I had never posted a picture of a properly drawfiled surface. There are still a couple of 36-grit scratches on the edge steel, but that will be ground away after heat treat. Yes, this is not yet hardened. Also, I should mention if you don't have a belt grinder you can do the entire thing with files. Just takes a little longer. Next, here is the result of all the filing, both draw and push. See what I mean about things you can't do with a belt grinder? Every last bit of surface you see is the result of filing. There was a lathe involved in creating the bowl, but files were used on the bowl while it was in the lathe chuck as well. Note this is as-filed, it has not been sandpapered yet. Well, the molding between eye and blade has been cleaned up with a 1/2" sanding drum for a Dremel, but that's it. Finally, the files used in making this hawk: From the left, we have the 16" mill bastard with one edge ground safe (heavy stock removal and rapid drawfileing), the 1/4" chainsaw (setting some of the curves on the lathe), a 14" long-angle lathe file (fast stock removal push-filing, tends to leave a smoother surface than the 16" mill) 12" round file (lathe work), 12" mill bastard for intermediate smoothing, 8" half-round for setting the transition from eye to blade and shaping that little step on the bottom, the three six-inch mill files (bastard with safe edge, 2nd cut, and smooth), two 6" three-squares, one slim and one XX-slim with a safe edge (these were used to make the grooves and clean up the inside corners on the bowl), and finally, the 3" round needle file that was used to clean up the grooves. The 16" is the workhorse of the family. Used as a push file it cut the shoulders on the transition and the V on the eye. As a draw file it flattened and blended the blade. The long-angle lathe file has two safe edges (meant to be used on the lathe, it won't mar the chuck). The round file and big chainsaw file clean up my sloppy lathework on the neck of the bowl. The other bastard files are just used to clean up after the one before. The three-square XX-slim with one face ground smooth can cut dovetails, but it also acts like a knife to cut very sharp straight lines for the grooves. The slim three-square follows those lines to widen and deepen the cut, and the needle file removes the coarser marks of the bigger files. And that's only about a quarter of my file collection...
  2. 1 point
    Yes there are two that I know of on Youtube. The Mike Loades documentary about Al and a friend of mine from Jordan. The other was the Nova special about Ric making the Ulfbhert sword. Both are very good documentaries and with Al you will see there are many things that he does which reveal his process at that time, if you know what to look for.
  3. 1 point
    That's a really cool looking knife. I'd carry that around, cut my apples with it for sure.
  4. 1 point
    I love steam punk but hate gears and stuff thrown on with zero function so that lenses apature ie seriously freaking amazing. Really nailed everything there! Truly amazing
  5. 1 point
    I'm glad you like it! I really like blades with a long sweeping belly, I think that it is the optimal way to make a blade that cuts well and is easy to sharpen.
  6. 1 point
    I totally understand Alan...……..but, I just cannot resist the urge to shout out: Hey @Dave Stephens. Can we get a little help here please?
  7. 1 point
    I just got done unwrapping Spelunkr and it is awesome! The patina fits the knife perfectly, and the fit and finish is excellent. Overall it's an outstanding blade! You're right Wes, this knife just seems like it wants to be cutting and chopping something. Thanks for the little extra as well, it's a cool idea and is surprisingly comfortable to wear.
  8. 1 point
    After a rough grind and a quick etch, I got my first real look at the pattern in this one:
  9. 1 point
    Do you think that is a ‘commando’ knife?
  10. 1 point
    Looks identical to mine.
  11. 1 point
    Score! Definitely not an English one, though. English-made vises always have the corners chamfered. That bracket looks like maybe Columbus Forge and Iron (Trenton and Arm and Hammer anvils makers), but unless it's marked there's no telling. There's also what appears to be a "60" on the shelf above the screw in that picture of the 1912. Probably the weight.
  12. 1 point
    Wow. That internal mechanism is a machinists wet dream. Well done sir!
  13. 1 point
    Hi, so I finally finished this one. Many thanks to everyone who offered their advice. So my intention was a fusion of a western fighting knife with Japanese style. Obviously I'm not the first to try it, I certainly won't be the last. I wish I could have done fullers but they were beyond my current skill level. Unfortunately this blade was my second attempt and I have a very similar one with horriibly uneven fullers. Blade is 9" of W2, sharp coming and going. Blued damascus fittings, and curly maple handle. I know the cord isnt traditional, and the knots aren't correct. If any one knows the correct knots for a handle were wrap doesn't pass under handle please let me know. Thanks for looking.
  14. 1 point
    Here some pictures from my very first try to make a linerlock knife. Stainless Steel liners, Ebony handle parts, custom damast blade and spacer, hidden hardware (pivot and 26 m2 screws), custom damast bolsters. I hope you enjoy, thanks for watching. w.b.r. Joost
  15. 1 point
    A year ago I switched from straight knives to folding knives. This is my second liner lock knife. Blade: Damast made by Maarten van Hattem 3.8mm thick, 87mm long, 28mm wide, custom filework (thanks to Bastianknives) hollow grind with faded plunge line Thumbstud: massive copper with Stainless steel core. Spacer: Damast made by Maarten van Hattem, 4.3mm thick, custom filework. Liners: 2mm titanium grade 5, sanded til grid 2500, 2.4mm detentbal. Handle: Juma with massive copper inlay, 4mm titanium grade 5 bolsters. Hidden hardware: 26 pieces m2 highgloss polished Stainless steel screws. Pivot: Stainless steel custom pivot with massive copper ring. Washers: fosforbrons 0,25 mm thick, 13mm round. That's all for today. w.b.r.
  16. 1 point
    Everything is fitted with m2 screws from the inside. The front bolsters are fitted with 3 m2 screws, the rear bolsters with 2 m2 screws. the handle parts are fitted with 2 screws. The spacer is fitted with 12 m2 screws to the liners. here you can see all the parts... w.b.r. Joost
  17. 1 point
    Don, please don't ever hesitate on posting like that...I love reading your replies! I do know the effect of a good cup of coffee on typing as well, lol! I really wanted/should of discussed this all with you more in Reno...but I was afraid to come off as bugging you (my personal insecurity, nothing to do with you Don). Â I went back to some water. Â So far with mixed results. Â I'm not blaming the water...just me! I took a blade that had been quenched in oil twice unsuccessfully (W2). Â When I say unsuccessfully, I mean in the way the hamon turned out...it did get hard. See, what I'm trying to do here is match a hamon to a block of box elder burl that is cross-cut and has a "hamon" in the grain. Â It totally looks like a hamon from a blade. Anyway, I water quenched this W2 blade (it was ground really thin). Â The tip rose a LOT, and I think it was just too much pull on it...it cracked in about 4 places (with a BEAUTIFUL hamon). I tried qater quenching a W1 blade I had laying around without clay, and it cracked at the ricasso. Â Both of these blades were busted up to look at "grain." And had been austenitized at around 1450F. So enter the big camp knife again. Â I re-did all the thermal cycles in salt....ground it clean and re-clayed it (same as first time). Â I set the forge to run around 1450F (just with the needle valve and gas pressure, no solenoid help. Â I watched the colors very carefully. I quenched in 120F tap water (with a little dish-soap in it). Â Interrupted as: quench 1-2-3-4-5- out 1-2-3- quench 1-2-3-4-5-6...TEMPER ASAP. Â I thought all went well, the tip rose back to its original location, the edge got full screaming hard. But after grinding on it just a bit (after tempering), there are two TINY little hairline cracks that are right in amongst the hamon. Â Of course this one won't get my name on it, but it should make a fun test knife. Anything jump out at you guys on something I should have done differently. I know these posts of mine lately have been long-winded...but I'm hoping it might help out some others here...and it forces me to be completely honest with myself on what I'm doing and try to OWN this...good and bad. Â I have tuend out enough wild hamons that there are some folks that think I can do it without a hitch.... Â HAHAHAHAHA, I wish that was the case. Can someone tell me if the following observation is true, or if I'm crazy??? Austenitize at 1450F, let it soak for a couple minutes, and quench it water. Â You will reduce chances of cracking, and get a nice hamon that will be influenced by your clay. Do the same and quench in oil, and it will get hard through. Do the same but austenitize at 1550F and quench in oil, and it will get hard at the edge and be influenced by your clay. Hmmm....so much to learn, so little time. Â Good thing I'm still 26, maybe I'll figure it out by the time I die. Thanks for all the help and encouragement! Nick
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