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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/03/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hi, just finished this one up. This is my take on a modern cord wrapped tanto. I wanted to keep as much of the traditional design but with a cord wrapped tactical style handle. Blade is 6" and keeps the ridged spine of the tratidional Japanese swords. I also tried to stay as close to a classic profile as possible. Handle has rayskin inserts and features traditional tsukamaki knots (or as close as I can get with double strand cord). Hamon isn't bad, but blade has a "using" polish of around 600g so some of the finer details don't pop. Thanks for looking, Justin
  2. 1 point
    Wanted to do Wild Olive/Oryx horn/Wild olive for the big knife's handle, but that was a mess....went with black linen and wild olive
  3. 1 point
    This is my take on the Zorro sword from the last movie, not the kind of sword project I normally take on but it was a fun and challenging build. Specs are 32" blade 1.5 at base 39" overall right around 2lb balance is 3.5 from the guard blade is L6 fittings are polished 1018 handle is wood core cord and leather the studs are stainless steel as are the ferrals . The scabbard is poplar with felt lining leather and stainless steel fittings. thanks MP
  4. 1 point
    If you're an electrician, I would imagine that you have access to heavy gauge copper wire and cable. It makes for perfect pin stock, it can be a bit of a challenge to find the right size drill bit though.
  5. 1 point
    thanks for the heads up, unfortunately, i doubt that the shipping to Zimbabwe will be my friend on this one but i will have a look around and see if i can find some copper stock. ive actually been scouring around for some brass to use for guards, but so far havnt found anything that isnt ruinously expensive. thats why i use copper, because my day job as an electrician has access to copper bus bars.
  6. 1 point
    Umm, yes he is. I’m pretty sure he buys them from Emerald and then resells them for a substantial markup. Emerald will ship up to 1000lbs for $500: not sure what import tariffs would be if you were a reseller, I read that if it’s for personal use there isn’t any from Belgium. I will PM you the info I spoke of so you can kick yourself everyday looking at 100kg anvils for $150 and post vises up the wazoo. How the heck you get to all the individual sellers and arrange for shipping tho is beyond me. Maybe put it in a pet carrier and dress it like a St Bernard to go in the plane hold?
  7. 1 point
    One trick I learned when I first got into muzzleloading gun making is to keep a separate set of files for use on non-ferrous metals. Never use those on steel and they will last a lot longer. Brass and bronze (and silver) are really sensitive to the sharpness of your files. I keep a couple of Grobet swiss-pattern files for that stuff. Once you file steel, it takes enough sharpness off the teeth they'll seem dull on non-ferrous metals. And aluminum is nasty. Gums up files and is almost impossible to clean out of the teeth. Pewter is gummy too, but at least it pops out when picked with a needle. Also, while wrought iron is a joy to file compared to steel, the slag can cause problems just like scale, as it's harder than iron. If you're filing on gnarly slaggy wrought or bloomery steel, expect to lose a few teeth. Luckily slag is very brittle and tends to turn to dust as it dulls your files unless it's a really big lump.
  8. 1 point
    The way I see it, the more we learn about heat treating 5160 (for any application) and the more we hear about dealing with outside HT places, the better off we all are. Please do keep us informed on how it all plays out (service from the heat treater, final hardnesses, how stiff the springs were, EVERYTHING!). Springs are very important to smiths. Check out the DIY power hammer posts on the forum some time.
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