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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/28/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hey everyone! I finished this piece a few days ago, so I took some photos and thought I would share! This began as a small billet for a demo at NESM for their annual hammer in, and upon finishing the blade a client signed onto the project, so I designed the hilt and we went from there! I still have to make the sheath, and when it's done I'll update this thread. The blade is seven bars of pattern weld, wrought iron on the spine, four twisted bars, more wrought iron, and then an edge of ~400 layers. The handle is moose antler, bog oak, silver, wrought iron, and rubies. I guess I'll do the usual and post a few finished photos and then a WIP! WIP time! So this piece started off as a billet about 8 inches long. I twisted everything extremely tight and laid up the wrought iron and edge bar. I tacked the billet on one end and brought it to Maine with me. I was invited to demonstrate on both days, and first gave a lecture on the historical seax and then did a practical demo the next day, forging a long seax. I then brought the blade to Zack Jonas' workshop a while after it was finished and began to work out what the design should be. Drawing from a few different artifacts I designed something that intrigued me. I used a few drill bits and a set of needle rasps to get the bolster fit properly. Here you can see the fit bolster next to the sawn bog oak and the drawing I made for the client. I used the needle rasps to file and clean up the slot for the tang to seat in the wood properly which is a new trick, I promptly went and bought my own set after! That's as far as I got at Zack's, and upon returning home I began to shape the handle. I always do my rough shaping on the belt grinder to establish the lines I am after and then use files or sandpaper to refine the shape. In this case I am going for a slight hourglass shape and need to do some careful firework to establish my lines. After about an hour the work is done and I can polish to about 400 grit in preparation for the rest of the detailing. At this point I figured I would set the half moon shape on the bolster as per my design. I did this freehand on the grinder and then polished with some paper on a flat surface. Here you can see there is a slight inletting in the edge side of the bolster to allow the blade to sit better. I used a jewelers saw to begin the cuts for the silver wire and then a series of files and rasps to make the recess for the wire. After some epoxy and a few wracked nerves the silver is in place. I couldn't remember what size bezel wire I had used in the past on the amber seax, but I did some experimenting and figured it out. Here's the piece next to the scaled up drawing I made to keep with me as I was working. I think I'll start doing this more in the future. I cut out the piece of fine silver and annealed it, then bent it to shape on the back end of the bog oak grip, and because it was so soft it readily accepted its new shape. I took some nice wrought iron I had and cut a small coupon off and drilled and filed a hole to fit it to the tang. My original thought was to make the pommel just a cap and not be held on by the tang, but Peter convinced me I should weld an extension to the tang and peen the pommel on. Here I am using sharpie to get a vague idea of where I should grind to. I never really do this sort of work with a caliper and exact measurements, instead using my eye to get things close. I may change this some day and do more exact work, but for the style of work I do I feel that this gives my work a more 'organic' nature. I roughed in the shape on the grinder and then drilled my holes. I probably would change the order of operations next time. Once the pommel was roughly fit I began to tune the shape with files. Eventually I ended up with this. I began to peen the bezels in place from the inside to hold them properly. I did all of the setting work before attaching to the handle so I could burnish all the way around easily. Once the rubies were set I peened the whole thing together after administering some epoxy. Here you can see the peen isn't cleaned up yet. After some careful belt grinding and 2000 grit paper to clean the peen up, I went out back behind the shop to take some photos! I hope that's helpful or at least informative, thanks for looking guys!
  2. 1 point
    Power Mig on 220 v with .35 wire. Remember I’m not the most experienced welder. The excess mess at the top of the press was a half assed attempt to fill in a gap between the metal. I should have welded in a filler. I do plan on grinding it down to see how deep I got and rewelding if needed. I did take the time to clean the metal and some of the welds came out nice, almost professional, but then I decided to fill in over and butchered them.
  3. 1 point
    Sounds easy enough. Thanks again Zeb!
  4. 1 point
    Nice stuff, Garry! I particularly like the fishing knife and steak knife.
  5. 1 point
    Hello there, time doesn´t allow me to go to the forge often, but not so long ago, I finished these two blades. Both have edges from tool steel, wrought iron bar, then a PW bar, and on top another wrought. My favourite construction I admit :) . I must say I am quite happy with how the pattern turned out, I hope it will be to your liking as well. Blade 1 length: 12,4cm, width: 3cm, thickness: ca 5,5mm price: 122USD/106E+shipping Blade 2 length: 13,3cm, width: 2,9cm, thickness: ca 6mm price: 127USD/110E+shipping Thank you very much for looking, I will be looking forward too hearing your thoughts and comments! Sincerely, Ondrej
  6. 1 point
    I look forward to seeing it finished, it has an Indo-Persian meets Bowie flavor to it. That trailing point with sharpened clip would be a nasty slasher even in reverse cuts.
  7. 1 point
    Ya got me whupped on both !!!!............................
  8. 1 point
    Pry bars are a pretty good choice, particularly when you are looking for some mass, but they are still mystery steel with everything that entails. I really don't understand the idea of "practicing" on bad steel or found steel. You are going to screw up steel for a long time, I still end up with unusable pieces under the forge. Get some rebar, make some hooks and pokers and stuff, that is pretty much all of the "practice" that you need. $20 worth of a known steel will last you for a long time. Most of your knife making time is not spent in the forging, most of it is spent in the finishing, so one or two "practice" blades will teach you most of what you need to know about forging. Geoff
  9. 1 point
    I have wasted to much time working with mystery steel and it not working out. My best advice is get some 1080 or 1084 (its basically the same stuff). Almost all knife making supply places have it. Its the easiest to heat treat with a simple coal or gas forge.
  10. 1 point
    Another nice thing about 400 series is that, unlike 300's, they stick to a magnet... so if a surface grinder is a big part of your san mai process, like me, that works with the mag chuck on the machine.
  11. 1 point
    Totally forgot about him. He does some great videos, too. Like the ones I mentioned, he stays tight to the work, minimizes nonsensical jive, and turns out a very nice finish on his pieces. Two thumbs up!
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Mark Aspery definitely sets the gold standard in terms of video quality. Craig Trnka is probably the single best resource for learning how to effectively move iron. I'm not a farrier and have no interest in making horse shoes, but this guy is simple amazing. How he can get that steel to move under his hammer is almost miraculous, and to have everything come out so wonderfully clean is something to be seen. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6sRXurRsBs Another good one is Elchschmiede. He doesn't speak english, but I speak blacksmith and can follow along quite nicely. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGIwSDb66oE All three smiths turn out videos that are high on quality, tightly focused on the work, and don't have annoying soundtracks you'd expect from cheesy porn flicks. No rodeo clown antics, harsh edits, etc. Just good solid ironworking. If you haven't seen the Devil's Blacksmith series put out by Master Huber, you're really missing out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAEzHsTPuqg
  14. 1 point
    Now to rivet the saddle to the back spring. This is the snap rivet tool held in the vice. The groove on the back of the spring here is to help the blade track nice and true when opening and closing the knife. Now to clean the blade up with successive finer grits of abrasive. The bucking bar here is used to support the antler taper and hold the rivet in place which will attach the back spring to the handle. This is the only place where the back spring is physically attached to the handle. The saddle is riveted to the back spring and then the saddle is pinned to the sides of the handle, this creates more support closer to the pivot point of the blade and adds more pressure when opening and closing the knife. If you look closely at the lower picture you'll see that the inside of the antler is shiny that's because I apply super glue to the inside surfaces of the antler where any soft pith is still present. It just hardens any of these areas and will make the inner part of the handle less susceptible to water or moisture ingress. Everything is now coming together quite nicely. The rivets which hold the saddle in place are dry fitted and then marked and then cut to length so they do not protrude into the groove where the blade sits and cause any obstruction. They are then re-fitted with a little super glue to make sure they don't come out. Here are the final pic's of the completed knife plus a rustic style sheath made so the customer can wear his knife on his belt. I hope you've enjoyed the WIP guys and thank you again Alan for pinning it to the board.
  15. 1 point
    Migration and Viking period blades tend to have subtle distal tapers, but it is still rare to find blades without this. The fact that it is mild should not be taken that it is unimportant. As a rule these blades taper both in width and thickness and it is worthwhile to spend some time to note just how they do this. The effect may be surprising. There is very little published on distal tapers. The info you find on the net is mostly inferred from ideas of what swords *should* be rather than facts. Thickness, cross section and distal taper of sword blades are the key features for the character and performance of the weapon. This holds true for most any type of sword. One example of a pattern welded blade: Total length of blade: 802 mm Width at base: 55.4 mm Thickness (in mm) at 50 mm intervals from base to point: 6.8, 5.9, 5.7, 5.7, 5.7, 4.7, 4.6, 4.9, 4.9, 4.6, 5.0, 4.8, 4.3, 3.9, 4.2, 4.1, 2.5 If you plot this out as a graph you will see the trend of the distal taper conforming fairly well to the basic principle I outlined above. The distal taper is not very even and part of this is from rust damage (=pits in the surface). The blade was not much thicker originally. Most measurements were taken in spots that were close to original surface. Total weight of this weapon is 1353 gram and a total length of 945 mm. I might add that the base thickness on 6.8 is unusual thick. This blade also has a fairly deep fuller. Many blades start out 4.5 - 5.5 mm. Hope this helps.
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