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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I couldn't find a forum for this, so since I'm a beginner, I put it here: Got a dog from the blacksmith down the road.When I took him home the other day he made a bolt for the door.
  2. 1 point
    Why the peroxide? That just adds more hydrogen and oxygen you don't need to produce the ferric chloride from HCl and Fe. Muriatic is already HCl diluted with water. That said, add steel wool until it no longer dissolves after several days of sitting. Once you've got that nice sludgy orange going, dilute with distilled water three or four parts water to one part FeCl. This addition of hydrogen and oxygen lets the ionic activity of the already-saturated FeCl etch stuff. It is a corrosive salt, not an acid. And it does work better warm than cold. To get better contrast, a lot of guys now are using a post-etch soak in very strong instant coffee. I haven't tried that yet since I don't have any high-contrast damascus projects in the works, but the pictures I've seen look great.
  3. 1 point
    The faded grind adds a great deal to the blade's appearance Joel
  4. 1 point
    Nothing fancy, made out of 1/16" 1095 stock I had bought for welding. I practiced faded plunges on this one. Temper done at 375°f, it should be somewhere between 61 and 63hrc. It successfully passed the brass rod test . Bullet wood scales.
  5. 1 point
    All three are done and just a little late. The art show opened this morning.
  6. 1 point
    Nice and thin, very nice.
  7. 1 point
    Yep. That will be lovely upon final polishing.
  8. 1 point
    Well, bugger... I didn't know him, but yes, he was a huge influence on the craft. Andy, get that book.
  9. 1 point
    Here's my first look at the pattern on this one. The low layer damascus is a little bold but I think that it goes well with the especially dirty wrought iron spine on this one. Once I add the silver plating to the back 1/2" of this one for contrast, I think that I'll have a winner.
  10. 1 point
    Very nice indeed. Now that's THIN! Well done and great blade profile.
  11. 1 point
    I have found that the only way to reliably forge weld any sort of billet in my forge is by the beer measurement system. ( BMS for short ) Its a very simple system, If the billet is cold when you throw it in, it needs to spend 1 beer in the forge coming up to fluxing temps. Once its been fluxed and returned to the fire. Drink another beer then check your billet. If its hot enough, hit it. if not clean it reflux it and leave it in for another beer. Rinse and repeat till your forgewelding is done... So far, the system works great in my charcoal forge, not sure how well it will work in my propane forge yet...
  12. 1 point
    I present to you my rendition of the seax found at Little Bealings, housed in the British museum. The 26 5/8 inch blade is forged from 80crv2 steel. The handle is dark stained hard maple, wrapped with nickel silver and brass wire. The sheath is speculative, as there are no Saxon langsax sheaths that have survived, and very few langsax sheaths at all. I wanted it to be true to the artifacts yet distinctly Saxon in character. The fittings are bronze and include a baldric for carry. The chape was cast by Matthew Berry of Hopkins Forge. This is the largest seax I have finished.
  13. 1 point
    Nice one Joel! I'm still liking that bulletwood.
  14. 1 point
    Simple elegance. Another fine job!
  15. 1 point
    That's got a beautiful all business look about it..................
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Your nothing fancy is really something in my opinion! Two thumbs up!!
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