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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/27/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    My advice will always be to do without the tools that you aren't ready for. You can ruin a blade in seconds with a belt sander if you aren't experienced. Someone once said that bladesmithing is like eating an elephant, you take it a little at a time. I still recomend that you just start making knives with hand tools. Your quality of work will be much greater if you take it slow. Try and understand what I'm saying. When you have to hand file a blade, you become more meticulous when forging so that you don't have to file as much, you'll discover better methods, and gain speed through Expeirience. When filing you are removing thousanths of an inch at a time; and all the while studying the blade for flaws and feeling the angle of the bevel. Your level of understanding will be heightened. You already know how to heat treat, which is the soul of a blade; the rest will come with doing. Just remember that the only thing stopping you is yourself. If you must get a cheap 2×42, get the Dayton. Good luck!
  2. 1 point
    Hi peeps. I'm just getting my gear together to get started forging and bladesmithing but I don't know what metal to trial with? I have no experience in metal work so don't know which direction to go. I was thinking of starting with old metal files and doing a mix of stock removal and light forging (tips etc). What would you recommend and where can I buy in Exeter Devon. Thank you
  3. 1 point
    Was reading a gift catalog (What else is there to do in the barber shop) and noticed this knife and it's claim. "The Dustar Model 1 - Arad is the first-ever fixed-blade, heavy duty, all purpose utility/field/combat knife conceived, designed, tested, perfected and manufactured entirely in Israel.The knife was manufactured entirely by CNC technology. " Got to say, it looks like a close copy of the Randell model 14, which by the way, I've had one since 1981. Mine's the stainless steel with saw back. I really wanted the plain O-1 model, but it was the only one I could get
  4. 1 point
    I'm sure some of y'all have seen the new open cutting competition show on the History Channel, "Knife or Death". While I haven't gotten to compete on it (Several "Forged in Fire" competitors, including Rashelle Hams from my episode, have been on. She did quite well.), I did get to be involved in an interesting way. I was contacted by Tu Lam, retired Green Beret and one of the three hosts of the show, when he saw some of my carcass splitters on Instagram. He asked to meet me at Blade Show to discuss a project. bladeshow13 by James Helm, on Flickr All three hosts of the show were getting blades for themselves to do some cutting for demonstration and promotional material for Season 2. Travis Wuertz built his own piece of awesomeness. Bill Goldberg, the wrestler. had a big cleaver built by Wayne Meligan, who had competed on Season 1. Tu was interested in having me build him a blade for him. In particular The Mutant double-edged carcass splitter that was my reaction to seeing the first episode of the show caught his attention. bladeshow12 by James Helm, on Flickr We discussed what he was looking for, his thoughts, my thoughts, made some sketches, and continued the discussion after I got back home. What I ended up building was a kind of pan-Asian dao that Tu named the Ronin War Sword. There are influences from Chinese pudao, Korean hyeopdo, Vietnamese yem nguyet dao, and Nepalese ram dao. ronindao03 by James Helm, on Flickr The steel is, of course, 80CrV2, with a 16" blade and 18" handle. The weight ended up just over 3 pounds, with the point of balance right behind the front Turk's head knot. The handle wrap is toasted hemp cord over a neoprene foundation, impregnated with West System marine epoxy. ronindao06 by James Helm, on Flickr The main edge is a tall flat bevel with secondary bevel, while the spine side and clip are zero-ground convex edges. Stout, and hair-shaving. In addition to a forward lanyard hole, I laser-engraved Tu's dragon logo on the blade. ronindao07 by James Helm, on Flickr I built an open-backed Boltaron sheath for it. ronindao04 by James Helm, on Flickr A look at the War Sword in my hands... ronindao08 by James Helm, on Flickr ...and a far more dramatic shot of it in Tu's grip. It looks better with him! ronindao01 by James Helm, on Flickr I know that there has been at least some cutting done with it in association with the show. Tu made a nice, clean cut on a big fish using the convex side. ronindao09 by James Helm, on Flickr The Ronin War Sword and the other hosts' blades have been all over social media in promotional material, but Travis' sword is the only one that I've seen (in very quick shots) actually on TV. I was pleasantly surprised when I picked up the latest issue of Knives Illustrated to see that in their interview with Bill Goldberg and Tu Lam, that Tu discussed the Ronin War Sword and they included a picture of him with it. That makes two months in a row that my work has ended up in Knives Illustrated. ki01 by James Helm, on Flickr ki02 by James Helm, on Flickr In spite of living a nearly hermit-like existence, I sure get to meet some interesting people and do some interesting things.
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  7. 1 point
    @Gary Mulkey after my first month working afternoons in an engineering shop I now have more appreciation for your work on the lathe as well. I spent 20+ years regularly watching my friend drive those machines, now doing it myself for the first time....
  8. 1 point
    I understand, i will use always use files to clean up a knife. In all of the belt sanders which one should i get?
  9. 1 point
    Now you're getting into the range of the bottom end 2x72 grinders. Another couple of hundred and you'd have a machine that will work much better and for a lot longer than any of the ones you've listed. More HP is better, the longer belts last better, and access to the drive wheels as grinding surfaces is a big help for some things. Just my .02 geoff
  10. 1 point
    For anvils try Old World Anvils. They have a good selection and can even make you up a stake anvil. My favorite anvil is an 86 pound block of H13 that I got off Ebay from a distributor in St. Louis. It ran me about $140 shipping included. Doug
  11. 1 point
    1084 is great, and you can get anvils on ebay/craigslist
  12. 1 point
    1084 and 80CrV2 are the easiest and make good blades. Both steels can be bought from AKS and NJSB. 80CrV2 is called 1080+ at AKS Old files are made of shallow hardening steels and are a bit tricky to heat treat.
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