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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/06/2018 in all areas

  1. Hi, I leave you some photos of a little guy ready to open packages. It is made of 1095 steel with red heart wood handles and brass pins. The sheath is made with kydex and leather.
    4 points
  2. As a contestant on the show (season 5, episode 25) , I think I can speak to your questions. No one goes in ready to work in the conditions. The clock, the cameras, the heat, unfamiliar tools, the mental stress of not wanting to look like an idiot on TV, all of those things come into play. They want to make good TV. That is their job, and I think they a pretty good job. They are not there to make TV about makers making knives, they are there to show makers under pressure. If I were making the blade I made on the show, at home (though I can't imagine why I would make that blade
    2 points
  3. Great I will do that once I get mine, I actually have much more knowledge and skill with tools than my dad (the only tool he knows how to use is a small drill)
    2 points
  4. Here's my latest 1095 steel with mustard patina, a first for me 3/32" thick spine, 6.5" edge 2" wide. Bird's-eye maple and vulcanized fiber shims. Edit: my photos were quite bad so I reworked them.
    1 point
  5. #1 This knife was a royal pain. First time using a piece of impala horn. The blade was part of another knife I assembled at least 15 years ago. It just didn't look right in the configuration it was in before and there were times I wish I had left it alone. The older I get I find if I take to long a break from knife making the longer it takes me to remember how to do things so most my time was spent relearning what I had forgotten. I can't remember what steel was used for the blade but I recall using 1060 or 1065 back about that time. The blade is 7 1/2" and the over all knif
    1 point
  6. Here's the finished product of my Henry Shively style Bowie. This one wasn't intended to be an exact duplicate and has several of my own additions including a damascus pattern of my own creation in the blade. Hope you like it.
    1 point
  7. Jantz should have the rivet setting thingy, but I'm not sure about it. As a strictly personal opinion I regard Kydex as an abomination against nature, but it is handy for certain applications. If it floats yer boat, go for it!
    1 point
  8. Two different contestants have told me that by late afternoon it's often around 120 degrees in the studio...
    1 point
  9. Thanks Kreg! To be honest, I somewhat improvised on this one . I did most of the carving on the disc sander and stopped when it felt good in the hand. It is designed for mostly pinch grip.
    1 point
  10. I did not take it as disrespect, I'm sorry if I came across as gruff. Partly it's hard because if it were easy, no one would watch. In my episode we had to make a billet out of scissors. With 10 minutes to think about it, I decided to make a can billet. I got all fanboy seeing Jay Neilson at the judges table and tried whiteout in the can (as a release agent) without understanding the ins and outs. I could have, and in the end did, just incorporate the can into the weld, but I lost time and momentum trying to remove the can. Every decision you make impacts the build and the clock is ticki
    1 point
  11. I like that handle a lot.....I am soooo bored with my handles. lol
    1 point
  12. Basically yes, it's really easy. I used a cotton pad and stamped a thin layer and let it dry. Cleaned and repeated once. The blade had been polished to #800 prior to the etch. Edit: I had a photo of the the mustard layout.
    1 point
  13. I do indeed! You captured the feel of a Schively with your own spin.
    1 point
  14. How do you get that patina? Cover it in mustard and let it sit? Great looking knife!
    1 point
  15. Yeah, its disappointing that we were able to vote on something, and then to have the state come back and change it after it was voted on is pretty underhanded.
    1 point
  16. You have to know your steel and what its capable of and what the purpose of the knife will be. A steel that may be ideal when tempered at a certain temperature may not be ideal if tempered at another but might do another job better. Each steel pretty much has its own tempering range and results. Then you get to grind angles and edge geometry which are generally optimized, again to the purpose. Then you have to match the handle ergonomics to the purpose and choose the right materials for that.
    1 point
  17. Obviously the answer to the first question is "No". Just like it isn't as simple to renovate a house as they make it look in a 30-min show, or restoring a car isn't as easy as it looks on TV, or building a custom motorcycle isn't as simple as we might be led to believe. Reality shows are not reality. (Nor are they meant to be) As for the second question, give it a try! You will very quickly get a feel for why it gets more complicated. You'll also probably quickly fall in love with the craft, or decide it isn't for you. You can dip your toes in with some very basic equipment and very
    1 point
  18. If you've watched all of the episodes then you have watched numerous master smiths be eliminated in the first round. That should answer your question.
    1 point
  19. Hi guys! I think I said this last time I showed up after a long absence, but I am alive! Between work, and watching the baby when I'm home, so the wife has a break, forging has taken a back burner, but I do manage to finish a few things here and there, lol. Just finished up these new tomahawks recently. First piece: Head is forged from wagon wheel wrought iron, wrapped and welded, with a 1084 high carbon steel bit. Finished up with a long etch to really show off the grain. The handle is a really nice piece of bird's-eye Maple that I special ordered just for thi
    1 point
  20. Thanks Garry, i have had blockyitis in the past, and on this one i guess i was scared to get so close to the tang and have a weak handle. Looking back now, i dont think it would have been an issue. Learning curve i guess. His hands are as big as mine, but yea, more curve and less meat!
    1 point
  21. This is mostly what I've been up to of late. I do still love making daggers, fighter, hunters and folders but the Instagram market has been snapping kitchen knives up this year! I like kitchen knives, because I like to cook and have done so a lot, because of the challenge inherent in these particularly performance-first knives, and because of the large canvas they often afford for the pattern welder! Sorry for the few lower quality pics... sometimes you already have it sold, and only have time for a quick snap before shipping...
    1 point
  22. This is a tutorial I did last winter, in response to a request for help in forging integral chef's knives. Here the starting block is a piece of feather pattern damascus that I'd already forged- the WIP won't show that part. Instead we show the process of shaping said block into an integral blade, with an emphasis on material conservation. This is a somewhat machine-centric way of doing the forging, as at the time I was refining my forging process to apply to forging Damasteel integrals from large round bar- and stainless damascus is VERY red-hard and needs force to move. The steels us
    1 point
  23. I clean up both sides on the surface grinder, shimming as necessary on the chuck to obtain flat surfaces, with major points centered when finished. I try to remove a more or less equal amoutn per side, down to the target thickness in theis case of .090" at 36 grit. This leaves an angle cut in the "plunge" area on both sides. The heel on both sides and parts of the edge are still black. From the top, stock left to remove is roughly symmetrical. Grinding the tang some, beginning to define the lines of the front and back of the bo
    1 point
  24. Thanks guys for the encouraging feedback! BillyO, no secrets here. I always forge the blade first. I start with a chunk of pattern weld say 3/4" thick by 1.25-1.5" tall. I lightly guillotine fuller where the front of the bolster will be, just to mark it really. Fullering it much to start will curtail your ability to drop the heel right from the bolster later. I draw on my LG50 mostly at the point to start defining the blade shape, getting it thinner and pointed out at the tip, then start stretching and widening the blade back toward the midsection. I stay away from the bolster area for
    1 point
  25. A few hours with draw filing and a rotary tool to smoothen the fullers and it looks like this: u Then on to sandpaper 80 t o180 grit, the fullers take the most time:
    1 point
  26. Hello: Just finished these a wee bit ago..so they are very fresh..don't want no stale steel around here!....all are 1095/L-6 with some meteoric iron thrown in for grins and giggles...phosphor bronze fittings and Rosewood, Red Deer or various flavours of Bovine Ivory grips.... this group came out OK.. for an old man working out of his front yard... JPH
    1 point
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