Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/06/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Hi, I leave you some photos of a little guy ready to open packages. It is made of 1095 steel with red heart wood handles and brass pins. The sheath is made with kydex and leather.
  2. 2 points
    As a contestant on the show (season 5, episode 25) , I think I can speak to your questions. No one goes in ready to work in the conditions. The clock, the cameras, the heat, unfamiliar tools, the mental stress of not wanting to look like an idiot on TV, all of those things come into play. They want to make good TV. That is their job, and I think they a pretty good job. They are not there to make TV about makers making knives, they are there to show makers under pressure. If I were making the blade I made on the show, at home (though I can't imagine why I would make that blade at all) I would have taken at least a day to do the can, I would have stopped to fix the hammer when it broke, when I got woozy I would have stopped and taken a break. You don't get to do any of that on the show, the clock drives everything, that and the desire to make it to the next round. Since you can't plan at all, you have to be quick on your feet. They hand you the challenge, and you've got 10 minutes to figure out what to do with what you have. The tests are intentionally brutal and destructive. I generally build a pretty light knife, but what I make at home won't chop through a block of ice, or whatever ridiculous thing they've chosen this week. If you think it looks easy, step right up. Make a knife in 6 hours, I'll be happy to give you a challenge to meet, and then test it to destruction. That will give you a taste (a small taste) of what it's like and why it's hard. Geoff
  3. 2 points
    Great I will do that once I get mine, I actually have much more knowledge and skill with tools than my dad (the only tool he knows how to use is a small drill)
  4. 1 point
    Here's my latest 1095 steel with mustard patina, a first for me 3/32" thick spine, 6.5" edge 2" wide. Bird's-eye maple and vulcanized fiber shims. Edit: my photos were quite bad so I reworked them.
  5. 1 point
    #1 This knife was a royal pain. First time using a piece of impala horn. The blade was part of another knife I assembled at least 15 years ago. It just didn't look right in the configuration it was in before and there were times I wish I had left it alone. The older I get I find if I take to long a break from knife making the longer it takes me to remember how to do things so most my time was spent relearning what I had forgotten. I can't remember what steel was used for the blade but I recall using 1060 or 1065 back about that time. The blade is 7 1/2" and the over all knife is just over 12". The guard is wagon wheel wrought iron and the butt is mild steel. Now to see if I remember how to attach a photo.
  6. 1 point
    Here's the finished product of my Henry Shively style Bowie. This one wasn't intended to be an exact duplicate and has several of my own additions including a damascus pattern of my own creation in the blade. Hope you like it.
  7. 1 point
    Jantz should have the rivet setting thingy, but I'm not sure about it. As a strictly personal opinion I regard Kydex as an abomination against nature, but it is handy for certain applications. If it floats yer boat, go for it!
  8. 1 point
    Two different contestants have told me that by late afternoon it's often around 120 degrees in the studio...
  9. 1 point
    Thanks Kreg! To be honest, I somewhat improvised on this one . I did most of the carving on the disc sander and stopped when it felt good in the hand. It is designed for mostly pinch grip.
  10. 1 point
    I did not take it as disrespect, I'm sorry if I came across as gruff. Partly it's hard because if it were easy, no one would watch. In my episode we had to make a billet out of scissors. With 10 minutes to think about it, I decided to make a can billet. I got all fanboy seeing Jay Neilson at the judges table and tried whiteout in the can (as a release agent) without understanding the ins and outs. I could have, and in the end did, just incorporate the can into the weld, but I lost time and momentum trying to remove the can. Every decision you make impacts the build and the clock is ticking. I wanted and needed to draw my billet out quite a bit, but the hammer went down and they decided that we just had to live without it. Everything you do affects everything you do later, and there isn't any time to recover or start over. None of what I did in the show are things I would do at home. I would normally take a day to make a simple damascus billet. I'm a slow and pretty meticulous maker and you can't see any of that in the episode. As Napoleon is supposed to have said "No plan survives it's first meeting with the enemy". Geoff
  11. 1 point
    I like that handle a lot.....I am soooo bored with my handles. lol
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Basically yes, it's really easy. I used a cotton pad and stamped a thin layer and let it dry. Cleaned and repeated once. The blade had been polished to #800 prior to the etch. Edit: I had a photo of the the mustard layout.
  14. 1 point
    I do indeed! You captured the feel of a Schively with your own spin.
  15. 1 point
    How do you get that patina? Cover it in mustard and let it sit? Great looking knife!
  16. 1 point
    Yeah, its disappointing that we were able to vote on something, and then to have the state come back and change it after it was voted on is pretty underhanded.
  17. 1 point
    You have to know your steel and what its capable of and what the purpose of the knife will be. A steel that may be ideal when tempered at a certain temperature may not be ideal if tempered at another but might do another job better. Each steel pretty much has its own tempering range and results. Then you get to grind angles and edge geometry which are generally optimized, again to the purpose. Then you have to match the handle ergonomics to the purpose and choose the right materials for that.
  18. 1 point
    Obviously the answer to the first question is "No". Just like it isn't as simple to renovate a house as they make it look in a 30-min show, or restoring a car isn't as easy as it looks on TV, or building a custom motorcycle isn't as simple as we might be led to believe. Reality shows are not reality. (Nor are they meant to be) As for the second question, give it a try! You will very quickly get a feel for why it gets more complicated. You'll also probably quickly fall in love with the craft, or decide it isn't for you. You can dip your toes in with some very basic equipment and very little money. Just be careful, you very may well get sucked down the rabbit hole
  19. 1 point
    If you've watched all of the episodes then you have watched numerous master smiths be eliminated in the first round. That should answer your question.
  20. 1 point
    Hi guys! I think I said this last time I showed up after a long absence, but I am alive! Between work, and watching the baby when I'm home, so the wife has a break, forging has taken a back burner, but I do manage to finish a few things here and there, lol. Just finished up these new tomahawks recently. First piece: Head is forged from wagon wheel wrought iron, wrapped and welded, with a 1084 high carbon steel bit. Finished up with a long etch to really show off the grain. The handle is a really nice piece of bird's-eye Maple that I special ordered just for this piece. The other two pieces are back to my typical hawks, mild steel head with 1084 bits, on curly Maple handles. The only thing not as per the norm, are the inlaid brass plates. The customer wanted to engrave his sons names on these for Christmas presents. #eagle_eye_forge #tomahawk #handmade #handforged #wroughtiron #blacksmith #hawk
  21. 1 point
    Thanks Garry, i have had blockyitis in the past, and on this one i guess i was scared to get so close to the tang and have a weak handle. Looking back now, i dont think it would have been an issue. Learning curve i guess. His hands are as big as mine, but yea, more curve and less meat!
  22. 1 point
    This is mostly what I've been up to of late. I do still love making daggers, fighter, hunters and folders but the Instagram market has been snapping kitchen knives up this year! I like kitchen knives, because I like to cook and have done so a lot, because of the challenge inherent in these particularly performance-first knives, and because of the large canvas they often afford for the pattern welder! Sorry for the few lower quality pics... sometimes you already have it sold, and only have time for a quick snap before shipping... And that's all I've got for now!
  23. 1 point
    This is a tutorial I did last winter, in response to a request for help in forging integral chef's knives. Here the starting block is a piece of feather pattern damascus that I'd already forged- the WIP won't show that part. Instead we show the process of shaping said block into an integral blade, with an emphasis on material conservation. This is a somewhat machine-centric way of doing the forging, as at the time I was refining my forging process to apply to forging Damasteel integrals from large round bar- and stainless damascus is VERY red-hard and needs force to move. The steels used here are 1080 and 15n20. Let's begin! Starting block, one side sawed off of a loaf of feather damascus. About .625" thick by 1.4 by 5.5" long. I start by pointing the bar roughly on the LG 50 with mild drawing dies, and tune up a little by hand. I only run the dies about 2/3 up the bar, saving thickness near the bolster and heel areas. With the point roughed in, I put a block on the bottom press die and lightly define the bolster area and drop at what will be the heel. This area is all at full thickness. This is just a marking step more or less. I put a spring guillotine in the press and lighty chomp at an angle to define where the bolster front will be, leaving the heel almost full thick and chomping right at it. This spring tool draws sideways, light overlapping chomps right at the heel in front of the bolster... it helps to start doing this while the steel is still quite thick. A few rows of that, alternating sides. Keep it hot! Block back on the press, keeping the heel pressed down and lessening the hump on the spine from spreading at the bolster. Some general widening along the blade, with the LG dies. Widening more near the heel. Wider, with a bigger hump... Knock the hump down. Put another block or plate on the point side to restrain the tip from shoving down too far. Getting there. Blade is still 5/16 thick at spine near bolster. Cross peening by hand at the anvil, alternating sides, to pull the steel out into a deeper sharper heel under the bolster. More of the same, moving out into the blade proper a little, widening along the length. Pull that heel. More and more, both sides. Diagonal blows. Check your width to the 2.25" mark soaped on your anvil step... Check to the 9" mark for lenth on the side of the anvil. Dang, I guess it's a 10" blade! With blade width, length, and general material distributed, shwock as necessary on hollowed stump with soft hammer to adjust profile. Blade profiled. Try to look for low spots and correct them so material waste on the grinder is minimized, and pattern flows better (with multibar or edged patterns.) That heel should be pulled out to a point right under the front of the bolster. It is tres chic to do so, among integral knerds. The heel can lose some thickness, just make sure the heel is centered... Chopsaw the handle off. When precision is important, I'll still guillotine by hand. Knocking in the tang step. Closeup... Drawing the tang on the LG. Tang drawn, rebar remainder chopped. Make visually sure that the blade and tang are aligned, and centered in the bolster. I just correct by hand at the anvil, although a press straightening jig is easy enough to make. The edge side. Make sure the tang, edge, and heel are aligned, and centered in the bolster. You can see there's still some meat to grind off along most of the edge. Blade profiled, beveled, normalized, ready for further cycling in the Paragon oven. Don't forget to leave some funk here and there for the grinder to get! That's it for the forging process. I could post part II, which is of the grinding and other work, if there is interest. Hope that's been of some value to some smiths out there!
  24. 1 point
    I clean up both sides on the surface grinder, shimming as necessary on the chuck to obtain flat surfaces, with major points centered when finished. I try to remove a more or less equal amoutn per side, down to the target thickness in theis case of .090" at 36 grit. This leaves an angle cut in the "plunge" area on both sides. The heel on both sides and parts of the edge are still black. From the top, stock left to remove is roughly symmetrical. Grinding the tang some, beginning to define the lines of the front and back of the bolster, with a 12" contact wheel at this time. Also roughing down the unground section at bolster front to the rest of the blade flats. Blade flats up to bolster roughed in... looking for assymetry now. You can see in this pic several issues to be refined. The tang is a little to right of the spine center line... but a grindable fix. I work mostly with the edge of the platen to carve things even now. This way, both sides... And from the bottom. Angles are kept simple and corners sharp to help see geometry. Shaping under the heel... the belt can be run out of the platen edge pretty far if needed, a sharp platen edge in one spot would be a nice aid. Truing the blade flat more at bolster front, evening spine thickness and truing bolster sides more to each other. Grinding angles... matching all around, using visual cues and references to inspect clearly. More... I've done this a lot of ways, from files years ago, to small wheels less years ago, but now I generally carve them in with the platen edge, first steep to match then mellowed out for comfort after HT. I think of it as grinding large plunge cuts. The bolsters are not flat on the sides here... rather they taper a bit larger toward the rear. I will not be using my file guide later to set them, so I don't need them to be parallel. Ultimately I like them thin up front, and swelling into a continued taper in the handle. On some I will keep the sides flat and use a file guide at the tang shoulder, before hardening. Both ways work for different styles. Nothing too fancy and analytical here, just light, eyeballing, carving. I just get it roughly good before HT, no sense making it too pretty yet. Just always look carefully, and thoroughly. If you must, checking relative heights of things is not very difficult with a flat surface and height gauge, calipers, or other expedients. Practice is the most important element. Profile is dialed in... A witness grind is established. The heel is centered.. the witness grind runs back clean into it leaving .040" edge thickness. Same on the other side. Whatever scale may yet exist along the edge will be easy to lose, as the witness grind shows... it's all part of getting a clean blade from a rough forging. Purely stock removal guys may not appreciate what an art this can be. The rest of the edges look like this. Some more grinding, and the whole piece is clean and ground to a slight convexity, from .085" spine down to .040" edge thickness, not mush distal taper yet. This is thin enough for quenching. Blade gets a thin satanite wash for a little extra thermal mass, and anti-scale barrier. Dried off with a torch, and ready for the Paragon. And that's it for part II! Part III will show finish grinding, and some pics of the final knife. Thanks for reading.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks guys for the encouraging feedback! BillyO, no secrets here. I always forge the blade first. I start with a chunk of pattern weld say 3/4" thick by 1.25-1.5" tall. I lightly guillotine fuller where the front of the bolster will be, just to mark it really. Fullering it much to start will curtail your ability to drop the heel right from the bolster later. I draw on my LG50 mostly at the point to start defining the blade shape, getting it thinner and pointed out at the tip, then start stretching and widening the blade back toward the midsection. I stay away from the bolster area for now, leaving the material pretty much the original size there. After the tip and midsection are out of the way somewhat, I use either a top fuller on my #9 Beaudry hammer, or a spring fullering set on my hydraulic press, and stretch the bulk of the steel in front of the bolster out into the feel width of the heel shape. This shape gets finished and drawn farther by hand with a cross peen. A hump will form in the spine at the front of the bolster, which needs both prevention and correction by hand or by press or hammer with a set tool. The bolster is further formed by setting on a bottom block on the press, and upsetting it spine to edge side so as to accentuate the heel drop further. After the blade and bolster are tuned up, stock is pinched from the back of the bolster to draw out into the tang, with a guillotine fuller and then the LG50 to draw. That's alphabet soup, I know. You know what, I'll post a WIP in here of forging an integral feather mascus chef (it already exists on FB and is of the green handled integral feather chef above.) Note though, that several of the knives pictured in this thread, certainly the top two, have the bolsters forge-welded on to best preserve the pattern... which is a separate process to get into.
  26. 1 point
    A few hours with draw filing and a rotary tool to smoothen the fullers and it looks like this: u Then on to sandpaper 80 t o180 grit, the fullers take the most time:
  27. 1 point
    Hello: Just finished these a wee bit ago..so they are very fresh..don't want no stale steel around here!....all are 1095/L-6 with some meteoric iron thrown in for grins and giggles...phosphor bronze fittings and Rosewood, Red Deer or various flavours of Bovine Ivory grips.... this group came out OK.. for an old man working out of his front yard... JPH
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...