Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Most definitely! I wouldn't be doing this if it wasn't for all the "How to's" he has posted.
  2. 1 point
    This is also the 30th knife/forged object I have made. I have a spreadsheet and keep track. Steels: 1084, 15n20. 600 layers ‘organic’ ladder. Handle: curly (or fugured I've seen it called) Koa wood with Gabon ebony front. No end grain towards cutting edge. Overall length 14.5” blade length ~8.5” weight feels quite light at 8oz. Etched with ~20% ferric chloride, darkened after sanding with Walmart brand instant coffee. A few months ago my Aunt and Uncle went to Hawaii and he brought me back a block of curly Koa wood figuring I could make a pretty knife handle with it. Well, I gave him that wood back, with a blade stuck in it. Originally I wanted a high layer perfectly even ladder pattern. And have it match the ‘chatoyance’ of the wood. I made dies for my 88# Anyang, but had too many bars on it and the steel bounced too much to get nice even rows. Then I thought what if the pattern is more ‘organic’ and flows like the wood itself does? So I risked the 640 layer billet and gave her a go on the bouncy dies. I really like how it turned out. Ends of the billet from 20 -> 80 -> 320. Then a hotcut and single fold to 640. Call it 600. Made a block from a slab of mesquite, had a clever idea. Just after the dark line on the top of the block, i have a strong hidden magnet about 1/8” from the carved channel the blade goes in that holds the edge off the wood when the blade is inserted. My lovely wife made some vinyl to put on the block. Now for my own critique: the ebony front of the handle should have been filed more carefully to leave less gap. I filled the gap with epoxy mixed w/black printer toner. Where I put the touchmark, it dished the steel and I couldn’t grind that deep on the whole thing to get it flat... still figuring when to stamp in the process... need to electro-etch... also the scratches in there I couldn’t get out without eating too much of the stamp. Self critique over.
  3. 1 point
    That is really cool....well done!!!!
  4. 1 point
    WooHoo! Gary has really lit a fire under you, hasn't he?
  5. 1 point
    I have all the above, and they are all good. Funny thing is, every single author does it differently. Almost all of them say you need a surface grinder and milling machine, neither of which I have or even have room for. That said, I am determined to start making folders this year. It's that same masochistic streak that forces me to make pattern-welded trowels, I guess...
  6. 1 point
    Just wanted to give a few WIP pics on the sheath parts. This was roughly 4 hours work, and about one hour searching for tools (you can see the shop is a mess). I still have a few parts to make and I want to add at least 4 more rivets toward the chappe.
  7. 1 point
    Very nice. I like it. If I tried it would look like a cat coughed up a hairball.
  8. 1 point
    It's a function of time at temperature. Things that don't need a soak don't need foil because they're not it the heat long enough to cause major problems. Things like 1095 can't be quenched fast enough to harden in foil either. That said, the stainless steels require the stuff because of the scale and decarb that happens at the long high-temp soaks they need. Plus you can plate-quench those two alloys still in the foil. For things like 52100 and 0-1 the foil is a pain, but does keep the scale and decarb off. Antiscale compounds work just as well for these and (at least in the USA) are much cheaper than foil. Finally, it doesn't have to be paper. Some guys add a little oil, some add nothing at all.
  9. 1 point
    One of the best and shortest videos on simple sheath making that I have seen.
  10. 1 point
    Geoff Keyes has a couple of good friction folder WIP threads I think. Then again, being that the due date is in September, there may be enough time to see someone make one and copy the method.
  11. 1 point
    Steve Culver has a nice book with design tips and patterns to do a follow along with the example in the book.
  12. 1 point
    What part of "folder" does not fall into the "EDC" category? What part of "Viking" is not compatible with "EDC"? (think Puukko) What about "Camping/Hunting implement"? That covers a lot of ground. Personally, I'd suggest something along the lines of a knife with a 4 inch or less blade. Your choice of fixed or folder, any ethno-centric origin, single or double edged.
  13. 1 point
    It's not just the liability issue. Dealing with a serious injury can ruin your whole day. Dealing with someone breaking or ruining a piece of your equipment can shut your operation down for a significant period of time. What I meant is that you should be teaching someone how to make knives, not introducing them to the idea of using tools.
  14. 1 point
    Slicing up some D2 if anyone is interested.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?

    Sign Up
×