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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Been another busy day as I had a few sheaths to get done for the knives that are ready to go this week. Cut out 20 but only finished the ones shown as the rest will are for blades that are still on the bench or waiting for handle material to arrive. Still have to dye and burnish the edges and hot wax them but having them to this stage is a good step forward. Have to sharpen and do the final clean up on the blades but at this stage it is all just the little things to make them presentable A pair of lion knives with one having blackwood and the other having Matai handles on 1084. A fillet and a fishing knife natural canvas micarta on 12C27 blades A thumbrest and a mini skinner with blackwood over buffalo horn on 1084 A mini skinner with beech burl over curve backed buffalo horn and a hunter skinner with blackwood both on 1084 And a pair of 5 1/2 inch chef knives on 12C27 one with linen micarata and the other with eucalyptus handles
  2. 2 points
    The etch is getting close...
  3. 2 points
    Absolutely! And, by the way, it's still not a langseax. Just a long-ish brokenback seax, and a very nice one at that! Be proud of it, and when you decide to claim the beard, I bet it will be yours without asking.
  4. 2 points
    I guess you start with 3/4 x 3/4 square x 6 inches long and make what ever you want.
  5. 2 points
    It's so close it's painful! There's certainly smoke, I'm just waiting to see if anyone else can spot the fire.
  6. 2 points
    Does it smell burning capillaries? I wish I could vote!
  7. 1 point
    Hello: Here is this last week's work..One worked and the others are what I call a pattern fail.. well.. as I have said before..experience is what you get when you don't get what you want so...while they turned out OK as a knife in general they are not what I wanted... Materials are 1095/L-6 and a small amount of meteoric iron.. Now the one that worked was the one I was sure wouldn't..that is the wavy feather pattern..THAT one did work and I think it came out pretty spiffy..I just wish I could make a longer piece cause a full length sword in this pattern would be totally unreal..It was a real PITA doing this pattern and I think I found a way that isn't so nerve wracking...More on this later once I work it out and get things sorted.. Hope these pics work.. This old man is back to work... JPH
  8. 1 point
    Ok, I'm too excited about this to not share it. I'm working on my second attempt at mosaic pattern, and just got my first glimpse of the pattern. I'm kind of bouncing up and down like a kid at Christmas right now...
  9. 1 point
    For a change I made this one in more of a modern style. The blade is half random/half ladder with an ironwood handle.
  10. 1 point
    I've enjoyed watching your progress on the one Zeb. Congrats on finishing up a great piece.
  11. 1 point
    This is also the 30th knife/forged object I have made. I have a spreadsheet and keep track. Steels: 1084, 15n20. 600 layers ‘organic’ ladder. Handle: curly (or fugured I've seen it called) Koa wood with Gabon ebony front. No end grain towards cutting edge. Overall length 14.5” blade length ~8.5” weight feels quite light at 8oz. Etched with ~20% ferric chloride, darkened after sanding with Walmart brand instant coffee. A few months ago my Aunt and Uncle went to Hawaii and he brought me back a block of curly Koa wood figuring I could make a pretty knife handle with it. Well, I gave him that wood back, with a blade stuck in it. Originally I wanted a high layer perfectly even ladder pattern. And have it match the ‘chatoyance’ of the wood. I made dies for my 88# Anyang, but had too many bars on it and the steel bounced too much to get nice even rows. Then I thought what if the pattern is more ‘organic’ and flows like the wood itself does? So I risked the 640 layer billet and gave her a go on the bouncy dies. I really like how it turned out. Ends of the billet from 20 -> 80 -> 320. Then a hotcut and single fold to 640. Call it 600. Made a block from a slab of mesquite, had a clever idea. Just after the dark line on the top of the block, i have a strong hidden magnet about 1/8” from the carved channel the blade goes in that holds the edge off the wood when the blade is inserted. My lovely wife made some vinyl to put on the block. Now for my own critique: the ebony front of the handle should have been filed more carefully to leave less gap. I filled the gap with epoxy mixed w/black printer toner. Where I put the touchmark, it dished the steel and I couldn’t grind that deep on the whole thing to get it flat... still figuring when to stamp in the process... need to electro-etch... also the scratches in there I couldn’t get out without eating too much of the stamp. Self critique over.
  12. 1 point
    That's the spirit! For future reference, brokenbacks are mostly Saxon, Anglo-Saxon, and Frankish/Merovingian, and except for some late Anglo-Saxon pieces generally predate the Vikings. Langsaxes are basically single-edged Viking swords, hilted like the double-edged swords. One of these days you need to get on a real computer with broadband and download Jeroen's stuff! This is still an excellent seax, right on the cusp of a fully burning beard. You have the skills and the attitude. Go read Beowulf, Tolkein, and Cornwell's Saxon Chronicles, watch a lot of Monty Python, and make another one. Your leatherwork is already far better than mine!
  13. 1 point
    Very nice Zeb. Looking forward to the Viking.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    WOW!!!!!!!! That sheath puts it over the top for me WOW!!!!!!!!! That is definitely smoken hot!!!!!
  16. 1 point
    I swear I seen a flare up.....maybe we need to pump some oxygen to it!!!
  17. 1 point
    O man!!! That's beautiful !!!!!!!
  18. 1 point
    Very nice, Brian. Proud of you.
  19. 1 point
    Crank 'em out dude!
  20. 1 point
    Looks like yer gittin it figgerd..............................Nice !!
  21. 1 point
    That's a pretty cool pattern! Looks like clamshell.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Cliff, They're made of 416 stainless.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Hydrocholoric will work. Strong vinegar will work too. Ferric is just the best solution all around for this, however. It's super cheap. $10 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Chloride-Etchant-Solution/dp/B008O9XMYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546733582&sr=8-1&keywords=ferric%2Bchloride%2Betching%2Bsolution&th=1 Do yourself a favor and buy this, dilute it with 4 parts water, and remove a lot of variables in your etch. As for how long: I do 15 minutes soaks, scrubbing the oxides off between them with comet or another abrasive. If a coarse pattern, I do 4-5 soaks. If a very fine grained pattern, 2-3. Neutralize with Windex. Buff lightly at high RPM with a fine grit (pink) rouge to bring everything out. Clean with WD-40. Remove WD-40 oil with rubbing alcohol. Coat with floor wax. Done. YMMV. Luck. Dave
  25. 1 point
    Depending on how aggressive the acid dictates how long you leave it in the acid. And it all depends on the results you want. If you want topography you would leave it in a lot longer than if you were trying to bring out a hamon.
  26. 1 point
    That's awesome. The sheath is especially nice!
  27. 1 point
    Woah woahwoah hold on Where is the destruction test video???
  28. 1 point
    And the finished product: Thanks a ton to all those who made it possible. Jerroen, Alan, and Emilliano especially. Thanks guys! Now I guess it's onto the next! Maybe a Viking counterpart!
  29. 1 point
    Three more sheaths for the knives I made. I used bison leather for all.
  30. 1 point
    Real nice work Gary!! What are the fittings made from, I am guessing maybe nickel/silver??
  31. 1 point
    That's a nice knife. I'd love to have a bowie actually. I'd like to make my own but I dunno how hard it would be to heat treat lol.
  32. 1 point
    Thanks Gary. I figured as much but wanted to check. I don't think I have enough material for a full tang but I think I prefer your hidden tang design. That handle aesthetic is pretty special.
  33. 1 point
    Nice. I've just started on my first Bowie and may have to steal borrow elements of that handle design. I'm assuming the pip on the butt of the handle is the end on the tang?
  34. 1 point
    Well, I'm not exactly the most experienced knife maker in this neck of the woods, but what I do have a tenancy towards is note-taking. So I'll toss in my .02 and see if I can help any. Knife making Terms: (please pardon my odd humor and sarcasm in my notes; I'm somewhat snarky) Tang - this is the part that shouldn't cut you three main kinds; mortised, full, and hidden; full tang can be seen on both sides of handle scales(to be defined, not to fear) and held in with either pins, screws or rivets; mortised tang is similar, except the tang is hidden inside the handle slab material again held together by screws, rivets or pins; hidden tangs are made by drilling holes through the handle, and widening the hole enough to shove the tang through. can either pein the tang or thread it with a threading die and tap a pommel for the butt of the knife Scale - there are two things generally referred to as scale in knife making; one we like, one we don't. The scale we like is, well technically are, pieces of material used to make a handle for a knife. Comes in pairs, and can be used on either full or mortised tang knives. Bad scale is what happens when hot steel oxidizes. It's also known as decarb(urisation) This ugly, tough coating can happen while forging with a overly oxygen rich flame, and will occur in some amount as soon as you pull the steel out of a fire. You can work against it by using a reducing fire as you forge, and by wire brushing your steel once and a while while working. Not as much of a worry with stock removal, but will still happen during the hardening process to some degree. Blade grinds – Okay, we've got three main grinds for blades, and quite a few major blade shapes. Our three main grinds are flat, concave, and convex. Concave grinds, or hollow grinds, are... well, concave. You have a slight(or not so slight on some knives) inward curve from the edge of the blade up to the spine.(remember, concave, like with caves, goes in. This is generally a grind made on a large wheel on a belt grinder, so is more often seen on stock removal than forged knives. Flat grinds are... okay, we get it, they're flat. Flat. You have a triangular cross section for this edge. Convex grinds are a major favorite by some, and called a lazy way out by others. You can look up the debates and decide for yourself, I'm just being the dictionary here. They are somewhat seed shaped, like taking a thin oval and making one side the point, and you have a convex shaped edge. Oh yeah, and I can't forget Primary and secondary bevels, as well as edge angles. So, your primary bevel is your first line, the general angle from the spine of the blade to the edge, it is usually a very shallow angle, and a major factor in your knife's cutting ability. Your secondary bevel starts nearer the edge of your blade and is usually at a more obtuse angle. These exist for two purposes, as far as I can tell, and they are; to give the edge a greater deal of durability, in allowing the more obtuse angle to be the one that actually connects with the cutting media; and to prevent the blade from becoming overly wide. If you took a .25” bar of steel at a 10 degree angle, you'd need a lot of steel to reach a edge, a secondary bevel helps reduce this issue. I'm not going to go into blade shapes on my own, but feel free to ask, and I'm sure anyone here will chip in with what they can(myself included), it's just too big of a topic for me to try to type up without a week or so of writing it out as a whole thread, if not a whole book. It's a big topic. Bolsters and Guards – Pretty much on par with tang shapes, there's not too many general concepts here; the main difference being how they are attached to the knife. Bolsters work like handle scales, and are again, pinned, screwed or riveted on. A guard is fitted up along the tang, sliding up from the butt of the knife to fit right beneath the blade. Now, for me, it's getting late, and the fiancée is threatening me with bodily harm if I don't get off the computer soon so she can sleep, so I'll try to add more in the next day or so. Please feel free to drop a reply or a PM if you want me to cover something in more detail or if there's an certain term you want defined Unless asked otehrwise, I'm planing on explaining more parts of the knife, and then heat treating terms. -Doug Bostic
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