Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    So after quite a long while of slow progress, I plugged in my HT oven last night and nothing blew up in my face! In fact, she glows hot and beautiful just as intended. Ultimately stoked! I still need to add some additional kaowool insulation on the door as well as a proper latch. And make a removable cover plate to go over the heater connections outside the control box. It runs on regular old 120v household outlet with a 20amp breaker. There are 2 heating coils in parallel with a combined measured resistance of 6.2 ohms. That comes out to 19.4 amps on paper, which had me worried I would blow the breaker. But the heating coils actual resistance increases as they heat up, so I suspect it actually draws a bit less. So far I've only run it for about 40 minutes, but it made it up to 1800 deg.F without issue in that time! I bought the bricks, thermocouple, high temp mortar, and coils at Seattle pottery supply, just a few minutes from my house. They can make custom heating coils from kanthal wire to any resistance and size specs you need there, but mine they had on hand and premade as spare parts for the little 120v kilns they sell there. Super convenient! The kiln expert there was super helpful too. The PID controller and SSR I got off Amazon. I used Dan Comeau's website as my bible for building this thing, and I cannot stress enough how amazingly useful it was! He has all the info you need to build one of these and some really useful calculators and tools to make it easy for even a dummy like me! If you want to build a HT oven, definitely check it out: http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/electric-forge.html?m=1 As you can see mine is super beefy and covered in sheet metal, but I made it keeping in mind the fact that I'll be moving in June and will need it to survive being lugged around to my new shop. I think all in all I have about 400-500 bucks invested in this thing, but I'm sure it could be done for much less depending on what you have lying around. I bought damn near every piece of this specifically for this project. I won't be able to put it to use for another week or so, but I'll be back with an update when I do and when I get the final bits sorted out.
  2. 3 points
    I have given up all planning ahead. I get uncomfortable with the way they use the word "premeditation" in courtrooms.
  3. 2 points
    When told by a reluctant customer "I don't need another knife.", I usually reply "The only knife that you need is the one next to your fork on the dinner table. The rest are wants."
  4. 1 point
    I've had it in mind for some time now to have a go at making a knife, so this Christmas I thought I'd have a go. I've never made a knife before so this was my first attempt. No forging, just stock removal using my CNC mill. I'm not really happy with the handle. I bought a piece of thuya burl, but when it arrived it was awful. not one face was parallel with another so there would have been nothing left to work with. I found an old lump of oak so decided to use that instead. Decided to add a makers mark when the blade was all but finished and hardened and tempered. Engraving it was a bit scary but glad I did. Makers mark is my family crest, a rampant lion and my surname. It's not ornate or fancy, I wanted something simple and clean for my first knife. It's not yet sharpened .....I haven't decided what system to invest in. Tried Lansky diamond system on my kitchen knives, not really keen on using iton this. Any comments, criticism or suggestions welcome. Roger Blade length 220mm Thickness at spine 6mm Width 48mm Overall 355mm Material 80CrV2 hardened and tempered to 60~63 Rockwell Handle oak
  5. 1 point
    I'm so excited! My biggest hindrance to my shop time and getting blades and things made is that my shop time comes in 60 minute or so increments, which isnt enough time to fire up the propane forge, let it get to temp, get heats on my material, and then shut it all down and have it cool enough to close up the shop again. I just picked up this 15kW SP-15A induction forge. It was purchased from Grant Sarver shortly before his passing, but then has never been setup or plugged in. I'm the second owner, but will be the first user of this machine. I honestly thing this will multiply my effective shop time by more than 10x, as well as allowing me to forge on even the hottest of days in the summer without heating the garage up to unbearable temps. I hope to have it set up and running this weekend !
  6. 1 point
    My camera died right before Christmas, so I had to borrow one to get a shot of the finished candle holder. Otherwise, not much going on. Work is work, and all the production forging doesn't leave me with much energy to do things for fun.
  7. 1 point
    Heh, I work in an engineering R&D firm. My software guys like to refer to it as "Double-E Wizzard Juice" (For the non-nerds out there, double-e = EE = Electrical Engineer)
  8. 1 point
    Also, in those facilities I mentioned, that was the only method of melting in those facilities. I have also worked in and been to shops using electric arc furnaces, and that is where you start getting really big melts. The foundry I worked for in Tacoma could melt and pour 96,500 pounds at a time. Cupola melting is also still done, but not nearly as much as it was 100 years ago. Electricity offers a lot of advantages.
  9. 1 point
    Also to be clear, 0% of your volume loss is compaction. When we are talking about volume of starting steel and ending steel. You may compacting a billet in terms of removing air gaps, but the density of the steel remains constant.
  10. 1 point
    Well Jeremy, take your time to heal up so we can make more ridiculously long road trips for anvils, hammers and whatever else strikes us! But maybe we'll stay at sea level next time... LOL!!!!
  11. 1 point
    Neat construction method. Sort of a pseudo-frame.
  12. 1 point
    Magnetism has nothing to do with it, except in the sense of the electromagnetic force at the subatomic level. You can levitate (or melt) any conductive material in one of these. Works really well on gold!
  13. 1 point
    Yep, that's loss to scale, which tells me your forge atmosphere is way too oxidizing. You'll always get some scale, especially when welding (and using a lot of flux will make steel go away fast as well), but some forges cause less than others. What is your setup?
  14. 1 point
    When you are at forging temps out in the atmosphere hammering scale off by hand, you are losing steel. Get yourself some striker friends, or a press, make a power hammer if your feeling froggy!
  15. 1 point
    So I've taken to calling it the bush sword but it's really just a knife, albeit the biggest knife I've made to date Steel is 5160, handle is muwanga with recycled plastic liners. The customer in this one was very specific, something he could use to take down a tree whilst on his way to recover a buffalo in heavy bush. To that end it has a very heavy convex edge but very sharp. He was also very insistent on not taking it past 100 grit and no hand sanding! I had to have a friendly fight with him to let me patina the blade! Hes really into rough and ready. Oh well
  16. 1 point
    Beautiful seax! Classic pattern welding and nicely punched sheath! Congratulations!
  17. 1 point
    Wow that's some serious horse power
  18. 1 point
    I took advantage of a warm afternoon to do some work on the hilt for this one.
  19. 1 point
    Hydrocholoric will work. Strong vinegar will work too. Ferric is just the best solution all around for this, however. It's super cheap. $10 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Chloride-Etchant-Solution/dp/B008O9XMYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546733582&sr=8-1&keywords=ferric%2Bchloride%2Betching%2Bsolution&th=1 Do yourself a favor and buy this, dilute it with 4 parts water, and remove a lot of variables in your etch. As for how long: I do 15 minutes soaks, scrubbing the oxides off between them with comet or another abrasive. If a coarse pattern, I do 4-5 soaks. If a very fine grained pattern, 2-3. Neutralize with Windex. Buff lightly at high RPM with a fine grit (pink) rouge to bring everything out. Clean with WD-40. Remove WD-40 oil with rubbing alcohol. Coat with floor wax. Done. YMMV. Luck. Dave
  20. 1 point
    I would normalize x3, fully harden the blade, leaving the tang out of the fire as much as possible, then temper (400 or even 450 for a hard-use blade), then do a soft-back draw by setting the edge in a pan of water and heating the spine with a plumber's torch until it runs past blue into grayish. Let cool with the edge in the water. As for quenching after tempering, it doesn't really matter. Slow cool or air cool or quench, from 450 degrees it really doesn't make much if any difference to the steel.
  21. 1 point
    It is an induction coil. In brief: Electrical current (moving electrons) creates a magnetic field. When all the electrons are moving in a circle, there is a magnetic field that is concentrated pointing in one direction. When you have two circles with opposing current directions, the magnetic fields point towards each other. Note in that video that there is one copper pipe carrying the load, but it has a loop out that changes the direction of the twist near the middle; thus effectively making the two opposing loops. Home built is the way to go with these, at this point in time. Give it a few years and the price on the commercial heating units will come down.
  22. 1 point
    Here is mine, a combination of J and R.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...