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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/29/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    This one has a similar pattern though it was 4-wayed just once rather than twice:
  2. 1 point
    Not a mission trip, not really tourist, but very interesting experience. If there is an interest I can post some details, but I may just do that off forum on a blog. Haiti has an old tradition of metal working, we got to see some modern ones and some 200+ year old examples. I'm going to scatter some pics here and then answer questions. This is my fave from that day Geoff
  3. 1 point
    My mother taught 7th grade English for nearly 40 years, I grew up with the concept. And an uncanny, if utterly useless, ability to diagram sentences.
  4. 1 point
    @Jeremy Blohm How many anvils so far? Is there an Anvil addiction Anonymous?
  5. 1 point
    Thanks for the links.....if I ever get a tax return I think I am gonna have to grab one.
  6. 1 point
    As for the pommel/upper guard construction, there's a WIP in pinned Show & Tell has an amazing how to do it and leave no trace of rivets and seams: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/36908-viking-sword-fingrbitr/&
  7. 1 point
    Daniel, remember that the blade has suffered some corrosion and that may have changed the profile of the point some. Doug
  8. 1 point
    That is just spectacular. The only thing that might improve that, would be a fish mouth weld at the tip to help maintain the pattern.
  9. 1 point
    Hey you never know someone else out there might think it's just as cool and drop what you need on it. The only thing I see about that sword, which is discussed in the topic, something throws me off about it. Typically, swords arch to their point not have a hard angle to the tip. Makes me think it's tampered with, I could always be wrong. And I would make the patterned welded version not the mono-steel. But that's because I like pattern welded stuff.
  10. 1 point
    I made myself a bottom tool that matches the radius of one of my hammers. Level hammer blows push the work 360 degrees on both sides of the forging so it's super quick to forge thicker stock down into thin plate. I would rather forge on a dished, saddled, or crowned surface than flat but a lot of people starting out look at older English anvils as if the wear on them makes them defective. Sadly I've seen a lot of them ruined in recent years by well-meaning noobs with access to surface grinders and mills
  11. 1 point
    I just think the geometric nature of the pattern would lend itself nicely to the mirror image of a double edge blade
  12. 1 point
    Great stuff as always Gary. Some day I'd like to see one of these in a nice long dagger.
  13. 1 point
    Please, Please, Please get a Material Safety Data Sheet MSDS for everything (chemicals, metals you name it, there is one for brass hammers even) get the MSDS's and read them before you work with anything. The life you save will be your own. It only takes a minute or two to find out everything you need to know. Now with everything being on line, you don't even have to get a paper copy of them. Some of the things you wouldn't suspect are actually hazardous. Dawn Dishwashing Detergent gives off flammable vapors because of the alcohol in it. One final caution do not consider yourself a student in the scratch and sniff chemistry school. Your nose is a poor toxic gas detector and at it's worst it will work only once. Some hazardous chemicals have a high odor threshold, by the time you can smell it you are over the exposure limit.
  14. 1 point
    You can do that by going to your very first post of the thread and when you hit edit it will allow you to change the title
  15. 1 point
    Check out the motors and VFDs on www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. I looked into the cheaper VFDs when I first started. I planned to put it in a box, with filters. I quickly found it best and cheaper to just buy the right VFD to begin with. You really need a NEMA 4X enclosure. The KB VFDs have a potentiometer built in. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne
  16. 1 point
    A VFD takes mains power in, rectifies it to DC internally, then synthesizes something that looks to a 3-phase motor sufficiently like a 3-phase sinusoidal waveform for the motor to behave as if it is powered by one. The clever bit is that the VFD can vary the apparent Voltage and Frequency and make the motor run at variable speed. VFDs are available for single-phase 230V input or for 400V 3-phase input. If you get a 230V single-phase one, it can run on UK domestic mains. The biggest you'll be able to run from a 13A socket will be a 3 HP/2.2 kW. It's not really worth getting any other size IMHO. They can run motors smaller than their maximum rating, but not bigger. If you use a 230V VFD, the output will be 3-phase 230V. The vast majority of 3-phase motors up to 3 HP/2.2 kW are wound for 400V connected in Star (Wye) or 230V connected in Delta and can run fine on a single-phase-input VFD. You'll need to check when ordering though. Over 3 HP/2.2 kW, motors tend to be wound for about 700V in star and 400V in Delta to enable star-delta starting (an old-school way of reducing motor starting current. It has largely been supplanted by VFDs). These cannot run on 230V 3-phase. Here in Europe (for the present), we have 50 Hz mains: 50 cycles/sec, 3000 cycles/min. Other parts of the world have 60 Hz mains: 60 cycles/sec, 3600 cycles/min. It's the reason you'll see the different motor speeds quoted on opposite sides of the pond. A 2-pole motor will run at an RPM equal to or just below the frequency of its power supply (3000 or 3600 RPM). A 4-pole motor will run at, or just below, an RPM equal to half the power supply frequency (1500 or 1800 RPM). 6-pole: one third (1000 or 1200 RPM), 8-pole; one quarter (750 or 900 RPM), and so on. We tend to use either 2-pole or 4-pole motors and in Europe, motors generally conform to IEC standards. Across the pond, they tend to use motors to NEMA standards. NEMA motors are pricy over here and offer no inherent benefit. They tend to be used where expensive machine modifications would be necessary to change to an IEC motor. For a serious belt grinder, you'll probably want a 90-frame motor in a long casing (90L). This will most likely be 1.5 kW/2 HP if it's a 4-pole or 2.2 kW/3 HP if it's a 2-pole. The shaft size of 90-frame motors is 24mm. Because half the world uses 60 Hz mains and the other half uses 50 Hz, meaning that maximum mains speed is 3600 RPM, motors are designed to run to 3600 RPM. It is not cost-effective for motor manufacturers to design a completely different motor for each speed, so the only difference between the 2-pole, 4-pole and 6-pole motors in a particular frame size is the winding. The winding is attached to the inside of the outer casing and is static. This means that all the moving parts are good to 3600 RPM. We can run a 4-pole motor to 120 Hz to get 3600 RPM using a VFD, or we can run a 2-pole to 60 Hz to get the same 3600 RPM. At the bottom end of the speed range, most drive/motor combinations are able to run smoothly down to about 10 Hz. Below this, running from the simpler V/Hz drives, things tend to feel "coggy". The V/Hz drives use a fixed (usually linear) relationship between Voltage and Frequency to determine what will be supplied to the motor and this linear relationship tends to break down once it gets that far from the design frequency. There are also drives which have "Sensorless Vector" capability. These measure the time difference between peak current and peak Voltage internally, calculate to determine the phase angle between them, then fine-tune the Voltage in real time to maintain the design angle (the motor Power Factor defines this angle, being its Cosine). These can keep the motor running smoothly well below 10 Hz and usually down to 1 or 2 Hz. A 2-pole motor on a V/Hz drive has about a 6:1 speed range (600-3600 RPM, 10-60 Hz). A 4-pole motor on a V/Hz drive has about a 12:1 speed range (300-3600 RPM, 10-120 Hz). Either motor has a much greater speed range when run from a SV drive with smooth running down to 1 Hz achievable if needed. VFDs switch large currents very fast and produce some heat, which must be dissipated. Most VFDs have ventilation fans and allow airflow over the power components to cool them. They are intended for use in clean conditions (usually sealed electrical enclosures). If there is airborne steel dust (which is both conductive and magnetic) it will flow across the power electronics, where the magnetic fields caused by the switching will capture it and attract the metallic dust right onto the power components. The short-circuit that results is usually quite spectacular and is invariably expensive, killing the VFD completely. If they are going to be in the same room as a grinder, we need to use VFDs that are protected against such dust to IP66 or NEMA4 standards. We can either mount an unsealed drive in a sealed enclosure ourselves, with sealed control switches and speed control knob, or we can buy a drive that is designed to be sealed to IP66 from the factory and which has the sealed control knobs, etc on the front. The latter is by far the better option for the non-electrician. To buy and enclose an unsealed (IP20) drive properly, with sealed controls, to IP66 is about as expensive as buying an IP66 drive to begin with. In the US, the KBAC series of sealed drives from KB Electronics are the go-to. In Europe, the Invertec IP66 drives tend to be the ones people use for grinders. The current ones are SV drives so you get the low speed capability. I'd recommend a 90L-frame motor and an Invertek ODE-3-220105-1F4Y VFD. The drive is expensive, but it's a cry once thing. I'd try for a 2 HP, 4-pole motor for personal preference, but would be pretty happy with a 3HP, 2-pole. If you are anywhere near Lancashire, I can sort you a foot-mount 90L 2-pole 3 HP from a compressor, gratis.
  17. 1 point
    Dear All, These Anglo Saxon inspired seaxes are finally finished for my wedding two months hence! Some of the WIP (before I broke my camera and had to push onwards) is on this thread: Enjoy! Comments and Criticism gratefully received. I have learnt a heck of a lot on this build, if I were to be making just one I am sure I could have done a much better job of it. However, since there were ten.... yes ten.... with a definite deadline I struggled to spend the extra hundred hours on the sheath required per piece! All in all, I'm happy with them and I'm sure their new owners will be too. A huge amount of thanks must go to Sam Ecroyd, without whom this would not have been possible! Cheers, James P.S. Sorry about the bits of stuff on the blades, didn't realise there was dust on them until I was editing!
  18. 1 point
    Should have pointed you at this earlier, but here you go...
  19. 1 point
    I recently rebuilt my stand-alone stand for the vise I restored. I really recommend a round base if you want to move your vise around really easily. I'm a tiny guy and I found that the round base allows me to piratically wheel the vise anywhere I want it. I tried my best to make a stand this time around that was less wobbly, so I tried the stacked 4x4 method. I'm still waiting on getting some supplies to make a good steel band to hold them super tight. Still wobbles a bit in use, but much better then the first one I built. I should have added another stack of 4x4 before I put it together, it would wobble less. If I had the steel around, I would just weld a big diameter pipe to a big plate, fill it with sand and use that. The nice thing about making it stand alone is that you can work all around the vise, really nice for upsetting to keep things even, or filing. The vise is awesome and you have all the parts. Because the jaws pinch at the tip - if you take some angle iron and make some jaw inserts, they will hold really tight. I thought the pinch was a flaw too as most the vises I've worked with must have been ground flat, but I found that just adding the inserts is pretty simple to get the same effect.
  20. 1 point
    Agreed, pommels like that are usually in two parts; the pommel proper and the upper guard. However, looking at the picture, I don't see a real line between the two nor do I see where the ends of the wire that were used to rivet the two together. Either way would be correct. Unless it's the camera angle the pommel is definitely off center. Doug
  21. 1 point
    I forged my billet to shape today and did a quick grind & etch to see just what kind of pattern that I have:
  22. 1 point
    while at winterfest a very well known artist while demonstrating warned on the hazzards of not tinning your copper. What are the Symptoms of Copper Exposure? https://www.globalhealingcenter.com/natural-health/dangers-of-copper/ The body needs trace amounts of copper in order to function properly. But too much exposure to copper can cause a number of health problems. For instance, simply breathing in copper can cause irritation to your nose and throat. If you ingest copper orally, it may cause: Nausea Vomiting Diarrhea Liver Damage Kidney Damage Death Also have been told vermiculite is very, very bad news to breath. Although not all vermiculite contains asbestos, some products were made with vermiculite that contained asbestos until the early 1990s.[7]Vermiculite mines throughout the world are now regularly tested for it and are supposed to sell products that contain no asbestos. The former vermiculite mine in Libby, Montana, did have tremolite asbestos as well as winchite and richterite (both fibrous amphiboles) — in fact, it was formed underground through essentially the same geologic processes as the contaminants. Pure vermiculite does not contain asbestos and is non-toxic. Impure vermiculite may contain, apart from asbestos, also minor diopside or remnants of the precursor minerals biotite or phlogopite. have not mentioned manganese poisoning, or silver poisoning, mercury, or even tin poisoning. Too many years grinding without a respirator, iron poisoning is a real thing. Sort of like silicosis, from steel mills.
  23. 1 point
    Today I began my Sayber OSG build. It's horizontal/vertical no weld grinder(I am probably going to save some time and weld a few parts though). Got a 2hp 3phase motor with a VFD to bolt on it. I am excited like a kid on Xmas . You can get the CAD files for free at sayberosg.com
  24. 1 point
    I bought a kit and built it myself.....with a lot of help from a friend that can weld. Not sure if I've pasted photos, if not I'll make a plan. I'm very happy with the end result, but I also found out very quickly that the belt-grinder doth not the knifemaker make I have to learn to use it and that comes at a price. Up until recently I used it very little, I couldn't afford to use it and maybe mess up the few knives I was busy with. In the mean time I've used to great effect to fix a small flaw in an almost complete knife........and this past weekend I put on an 80 grit belt and got some serious work done. Also cut a small groove in my index finger with the edge the belt, same on the knuckle of my middle finger I have two major issue, not enough light, and the grinder is mounted too low. The only good way to solve this will take some major effort and more money than I have now, and the biggest problem is time.....
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