Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/31/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hi All Little Pattern welded Bird and Trout knife275 layer blade, forged from the same billet as the previous knives.Total length 18.5 cm, blade 7.5 cmDeer antler handle capped with a shibuichi/ nickle silver ferrule/guard. The shibuichi looks like copper at the moment but will develop with time a silver grey patina. Richard
  2. 2 points
    Just finished another hunter... San-mai lamination, forge folded and twisted railroad steel for the body, and Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in burl Maple, with spacers in vulcanized fiber, brass and thick piece of copper. Working on the sheath, but RL job is taking up all my time. And yes... my logo is kind of big, still.. nothing has changed there. I am however - planning on perhaps having a new stencil made, without the square frame... Time will show... As usual, all feedback and critique is more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  3. 2 points
    A couple of new big blades that got shipped out earlier this month. Two firsts on these: the cord-wrapped one is the heaviest I've made, and the slab handle on the lamb splitter is the longest slab I've ever made. Both of them are forged from 80CrV2 steel with Boltaron sheaths. The wrapped one has an 18" blade and weighs 5.14 pounds, the first of mine to weigh more than 5 pounds. The handle is 22" long, scorched hemp on top of a neoprene foundation, with West System marine epoxy. carcasssplitter10 by James Helm, on Flickr carcasssplitter12 by James Helm, on Flickr carcasssplitter14 by James Helm, on Flickr It was a Christmas gift from a wife to her husband, and she had me laser engrave this on the blade. carcasssplitter13 by James Helm, on Flickr carcassssplitter11 by James Helm, on Flickr The lamb splitter is an over-sized version of what is usually a large one-handed butcher knife-looking blade. The blade is 17 1/4", the handle is 17", and the weight is 4.125 pounds. It has the longest slab handle I've ever made, from tan TeroTuf with flared stainless steel tube rivets. The customer has assured me that the lamb splitter will be used for butchering. lambsplitter03 by James Helm, on Flickr lambsplitter04 by James Helm, on Flickr lambsplitter05 by James Helm, on Flickr More details in the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gho0LtKQPzg
  4. 2 points
    ... And the build cost for pattern welded steel bought from New Jersey steel baron along with grinding belts, sand paper, and a leather side for the scabbard will be over $500. And I didn't charge myself for the fittings that have to be made. Not to mention propane. I figure a blade of this caliber will take around 150 hours to complete (without making the grinding jig). If I decided to make a profit by selling it, and pay myself $10 an hour and multiply it by 2 to pay myself, grow on, and start the next; it puts the total build cost at around $3,500. Gotta figure out if I can afford to build this now lol! This one may end up being truck spring and mild steel pattern weld saving $100 and shrinking the material cost to just over $400 if I held off on the scabbard for now it's a $200 build. Buy cheap Lowe's sandpaper and crappy belts and it's $100..... Budget bladesmithing 101^^
  5. 1 point
    And Owen, thanks for reposting that film. We all should watch it regularly. Mr. Craven had more skill than I know what to do with... Absolutely LOVE the nail nick hardy. The man forged folder blades the modern books say you can't do without surface grinders and milling machines. Inspirational stuff.
  6. 1 point
    Super slow going. Starting to refine and thin up the handle, and started filing in the "thistle" pommel cap. Decided to go for wrought iron guard plate and pommel cap, so took some old wagon wheel and forged it down flat. This is the pommel cap design on the original. The cap appears to have a slight dome as well. The cap also seems to overhang the handle by a hair, but I think that's ivory shrinkage with age, and not intentional, so I think I'll go for flush. Drill baby drill, drilled my pilot hole a little smaller than the tang, then filed to fit. Where I stopped last night. (axe of perun pendant in the pic as well, it's my distraction piece right now, haha)
  7. 1 point
    Dunno, when I do small-radius curves smaller than the 50mm wheel I freehand it with a half-round file and then polish on a 1" wide J-weight (ultra-flexible) slack belt.
  8. 1 point
    One more helpful hint: make at least one of the wheels on the platen frame a rubber-faced contact wheel. Comes in really handy for touching up curves. My top wheel is a 50mm with serrated rubber. Some people use a 50mm on top and a 75mm on the bottom. This also allows you to grind fullers by tilting the frame all the way forward or backward.
  9. 1 point
    Despite the temperature being the coldest day of the year so far, along with working on some orders I managed to get the frame tang completed for this Bowie. I made the frame tang from 4 pieces of 15N20 (1/16") that I filed along with 2 pieces of 1080 (1/8") that I cold blued.
  10. 1 point
    Dimes are the same composition as quarters. And based off my Google searching a while ago, you get the same amount of metal per $ of coins (10 dimes weighs the same as 4 quarters). Not that you should use US currency in this fashion though. That is against the rules.
  11. 1 point
    After all these years I finally made a knife for me. I made Pattern Welded blades for all my kids and grandkids for Christmas. Jackie insisted that the blades for my twins be made out of the same billet, as well as the blades for my two granddaughters in Texas, then I made a twisted pattern for my son and Jackie wanted one too. Then she decided that we should both have knives out of the same billet so here is my knife it is 48 layers of 15N20 and 1095 twisted 4 turns. I have made knives for me before and someone waved money in front of my nose and being the money grubber I am, I always took the cash. I don't know what would happen if someone offers me money for this one, it may result in my untimely demise . Anyway here it is for what it is worth, I left it laying around and the cats didn't bury it in the litter box so at least they think it is ok. The handle is pieces of Corain Counter Top with brass shims between the two colors.
  12. 1 point
    It's Corian, a kind of plastic resin stuff. It's a little chippy, but works easily.
  13. 1 point
    Still have some work to do on the handle but I have some things to get done first. This is what I have so far.
  14. 1 point
    Here’s a better picture. thanks to everyone for the kind words. Mason
  15. 1 point
    Alright, I finally finished this sheath. im going to start by burnishing the edge. I hade 2 burnishers so I took one and cut down the end to fit in my drill, it actually works great. Way faster than doing it by hand. I’m using the same method as before. Using water first and then gum trag. after the gum trag I go over it by hand with the burnisher. This gives it a smoother finish. Now I rub some beeswax on the edge, and then go over it again with the handheld burnisher. This waterproofs the edge. Then I will buff out the edge with a cloth, to remove any excess wax. And here’s how it looks. now I can put the finish on the sheath, but first I buff off any excess dye. I’m using acrylic resolene for the finish, It gives great waterproofing and a nice shine. I’ll put as many coats as needed until I achieve the desired shine. then I’ll put a coat on the belt loop and the inside of the sheath with a wool dauber. and here it is all finished. Now all I have to do is sharpen the blade. thanks for looking!
  16. 1 point
    I had some time to work on the sheath tonight. I always make the sheath before sharpening, because I will be using the knife for fitting. I first trace it out from a template I made. Sorry I can’t show how I make the templates, I haven’t made one in so long I’ve forgotten exactly how. You can easily find a vid showing you how on YouTube. now I can start cutting it out, I just use a box cutter for this. Here it is all cut out. Next I’ll trace the edge for the welt. I make it extra long towards the end, I will measure and cut that right before glueing up here it is after being traced. now I will measure how thick it should be, I usually make mine 1/2 inch. Ill measure in a bunch of spots, and then connect them by hand. after cutting it out. I will cut a slight angle here at the top, this helps the knife not get snagged on the welt. then I will bevel both sides. Only up around the belt loop area for now. now it’s time for dying. I first use some fiebings dye prep, I can really tell a difference with this stuff. I prefer dip dyeing. the downside to this is how much dye you have to buy at once! Right now I’m using a combination of fiebings saddle tan and walnut. And here it is after dyeing, it will get much lighter once it dries. I don’t worry about the flaws at this stage, because I will be dyeing it a second time once it’s sewn up. thanks for looking!
  17. 1 point
    Thanks Alan. I just finished the handle today. i start by grinding the pins down flush with the wood. now I start rough shaping the handle on a 60 grit belt. This part goes pretty fast if you use the corner of the belt to dig in. As you can see I’ve hit the tang, I do this in a couple of spots to make sure I’m close. after that I can clean up the rest with a finer 180 grit belt. I have to clean up this side by hand, because I don’t have an exposed contact wheel on my belt sander. now every thing is nice and clean. I start rounding with 120 grit. once the edges are rounded over I take it off the vise and finish rounding by hand. next I go to 220 grit. Making sure I get the tang and spine as well. Then repeat this step with 320 and then 400. After that, I wrap some 400 grit around a file and make sure the tang and spine have a nice straight grain. now I sand to 600, 800, and then finish with 1000 Now it’s ready for the first coat of boiled linseed oil. I usually do a total of 3-4, making sure it’s dry between coats. And there it is! It just needs a sheath and to be sharpened, I probably won’t include that in this WIP. I will post some more professional pics once I finish the sheath. thanks for the kind words everybody! Mason
  18. 1 point
    Alright, it’s time for the scales! im using bocote for this one, it’s my all time favorite wood. First I’m going to glue the scales together perfectly square I like to use a small amount of a quick drying super glue. (Sorry I forgot to take a pic) then I’ll sand the angles in for the top of the handle. Now I have perfectly symmetrical scales. next I’ll glue 1 scale on with a small amount of the same super glue. Then I’ll drill through the pin and lanyard holes. now I’ll glue the other side on making sure they are level at the top. then I can drill through that side. Now all of the holes are drilled. next I’ll clamp each scale in my vise and lightly sand it to make sure it’s level, and to get the super glue off. then I’ll rough it up with a wood file. and I’ll also lightly sand the handle to get any residues off. Now I can cut the pin and lanyard hole stock. I’m using copper for this knife. Then I’ll put it all together to make sure everything fits. next I’ll clean all of the surfaces that will be in contact with the epoxy, I use rubbing alcohol for this. Now it’s ready to be glued. I like to cut up my old hacksaw blades for mixing sticks. once the first scale has the epoxy on it, I push through the pins and lanyard tube. then I’ll push down the knife on to the pins, then the other scale goes on top of that. I like to glue it up in this order, because the pins are always pushing the epoxy through the holes. after it’s all clamped, I clean up the epoxy that squeezed out of the top, I use que tips and alcohol for this. and don’t forget to run a que tip through the lanyard tube, it usually gets filled with epoxy. Now it will be ready for shaping tomorrow. Thanks for looking!
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...