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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/31/2019 in Posts

  1. Hi All Little Pattern welded Bird and Trout knife275 layer blade, forged from the same billet as the previous knives.Total length 18.5 cm, blade 7.5 cmDeer antler handle capped with a shibuichi/ nickle silver ferrule/guard. The shibuichi looks like copper at the moment but will develop with time a silver grey patina. Richard
    3 points
  2. Just finished another hunter... San-mai lamination, forge folded and twisted railroad steel for the body, and Øberg-steel for the core. Handle in burl Maple, with spacers in vulcanized fiber, brass and thick piece of copper. Working on the sheath, but RL job is taking up all my time. And yes... my logo is kind of big, still.. nothing has changed there. I am however - planning on perhaps having a new stencil made, without the square frame... Time will show... As usual, all feedback and critique is more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
    2 points
  3. A couple of new big blades that got shipped out earlier this month. Two firsts on these: the cord-wrapped one is the heaviest I've made, and the slab handle on the lamb splitter is the longest slab I've ever made. Both of them are forged from 80CrV2 steel with Boltaron sheaths. The wrapped one has an 18" blade and weighs 5.14 pounds, the first of mine to weigh more than 5 pounds. The handle is 22" long, scorched hemp on top of a neoprene foundation, with West System marine epoxy. carcasssplitter10 by James Helm, on Flickr carcasssplitter12 by James Helm, on Flickr c
    2 points
  4. ... And the build cost for pattern welded steel bought from New Jersey steel baron along with grinding belts, sand paper, and a leather side for the scabbard will be over $500. And I didn't charge myself for the fittings that have to be made. Not to mention propane. I figure a blade of this caliber will take around 150 hours to complete (without making the grinding jig). If I decided to make a profit by selling it, and pay myself $10 an hour and multiply it by 2 to pay myself, grow on, and start the next; it puts the total build cost at around $3,500. Gotta figure out if I can affor
    2 points
  5. And Owen, thanks for reposting that film. We all should watch it regularly. Mr. Craven had more skill than I know what to do with... Absolutely LOVE the nail nick hardy. The man forged folder blades the modern books say you can't do without surface grinders and milling machines. Inspirational stuff.
    1 point
  6. Super slow going. Starting to refine and thin up the handle, and started filing in the "thistle" pommel cap. Decided to go for wrought iron guard plate and pommel cap, so took some old wagon wheel and forged it down flat. This is the pommel cap design on the original. The cap appears to have a slight dome as well. The cap also seems to overhang the handle by a hair, but I think that's ivory shrinkage with age, and not intentional, so I think I'll go for flush. Drill baby drill, drilled my pilot hole a little smaller than the tang, then filed to
    1 point
  7. Dunno, when I do small-radius curves smaller than the 50mm wheel I freehand it with a half-round file and then polish on a 1" wide J-weight (ultra-flexible) slack belt.
    1 point
  8. One more helpful hint: make at least one of the wheels on the platen frame a rubber-faced contact wheel. Comes in really handy for touching up curves. My top wheel is a 50mm with serrated rubber. Some people use a 50mm on top and a 75mm on the bottom. This also allows you to grind fullers by tilting the frame all the way forward or backward.
    1 point
  9. Despite the temperature being the coldest day of the year so far, along with working on some orders I managed to get the frame tang completed for this Bowie. I made the frame tang from 4 pieces of 15N20 (1/16") that I filed along with 2 pieces of 1080 (1/8") that I cold blued.
    1 point
  10. Dimes are the same composition as quarters. And based off my Google searching a while ago, you get the same amount of metal per $ of coins (10 dimes weighs the same as 4 quarters). Not that you should use US currency in this fashion though. That is against the rules.
    1 point
  11. After all these years I finally made a knife for me. I made Pattern Welded blades for all my kids and grandkids for Christmas. Jackie insisted that the blades for my twins be made out of the same billet, as well as the blades for my two granddaughters in Texas, then I made a twisted pattern for my son and Jackie wanted one too. Then she decided that we should both have knives out of the same billet so here is my knife it is 48 layers of 15N20 and 1095 twisted 4 turns. I have made knives for me before and someone waved money in front of my nose and being the money grubber I am, I always too
    1 point
  12. It's Corian, a kind of plastic resin stuff. It's a little chippy, but works easily.
    1 point
  13. Still have some work to do on the handle but I have some things to get done first. This is what I have so far.
    1 point
  14. Here’s a better picture. thanks to everyone for the kind words. Mason
    1 point
  15. Alright, I finally finished this sheath. im going to start by burnishing the edge. I hade 2 burnishers so I took one and cut down the end to fit in my drill, it actually works great. Way faster than doing it by hand. I’m using the same method as before. Using water first and then gum trag. after the gum trag I go over it by hand with the burnisher. This gives it a smoother finish. Now I rub some beeswax on the edge, and then go over it again with the handheld burnisher. This waterproofs the edge. Then I
    1 point
  16. I had some time to work on the sheath tonight. I always make the sheath before sharpening, because I will be using the knife for fitting. I first trace it out from a template I made. Sorry I can’t show how I make the templates, I haven’t made one in so long I’ve forgotten exactly how. You can easily find a vid showing you how on YouTube. now I can start cutting it out, I just use a box cutter for this. Here it is all cut out. Next I’ll trace the edge for the welt. I make it extra long towards the end, I will measure and c
    1 point
  17. Thanks Alan. I just finished the handle today. i start by grinding the pins down flush with the wood. now I start rough shaping the handle on a 60 grit belt. This part goes pretty fast if you use the corner of the belt to dig in. As you can see I’ve hit the tang, I do this in a couple of spots to make sure I’m close. after that I can clean up the rest with a finer 180 grit belt. I have to clean up this side by hand, because I don’t have an exposed contact wheel on my belt sander.
    1 point
  18. Alright, it’s time for the scales! im using bocote for this one, it’s my all time favorite wood. First I’m going to glue the scales together perfectly square I like to use a small amount of a quick drying super glue. (Sorry I forgot to take a pic) then I’ll sand the angles in for the top of the handle. Now I have perfectly symmetrical scales. next I’ll glue 1 scale on with a small amount of the same super glue. Then I’ll drill through the pin and lanyard holes. now I’ll glue the other s
    1 point
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