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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Yep. The late Larry Harley once etched the heck out of a blade and had it plated in 24kt gold. Then polished off the high spots. Because he wanted to. Pretty spiffy little knife in his self-proclaimed Hillbilly Baroque style.
  2. 1 point
    It's almost in there. Its sitting comfy now...I'm done for the day!!! As my dad always says. That's about all a man can do in a day.
  3. 1 point
    This is going to be great. I want it already.
  4. 1 point
    That reminded me of something I have not tried, but I may as well pass along: A pipeline welder was watching me file one time, and he said "Hey, we use files out in the field to smooth the V-cuts before welding! Wanna know a trick? Take one of those pipeliner files, and with a cutting disk in an angle grinder cut a shallow groove across the teeth perpendicular to the angle of the teeth. Cuts fast and slick!" This is basically what the Simonds Multi-Kut is, but a homebrew variation. I keep meaning to try it, but I don't want to screw up a perfectly good file.
  5. 1 point
    Yes, it is totally correct. Though it may be hard to see the difference between them. Obviously your example is just theoretical numbers (60° and 72°), when in reality it may be more subtle, or more drastic. But in principle, that is all correct. If you want to learn more, search for stress strain diagrams.
  6. 1 point
    Hey I just saw this, sorry for the late reply! I've found that tuyere angle is less important as long as the blast isn't directly on the puck, but when you have more material, the air blast will have to be higher to account for it! I usually do 2 lbs or 2.5 because I've found that is what I get the most consistency with, I very rarely end up with larger runs that are all homogenous as far as carbon content goes. If I can make a few observations from what I see right here that might help make your results better, I would suggest chopping the charcoal smaller, you want pieces around 1-1.5 inch in size for even heat, and I would make the charge with the iron wire as close to 2 lbs as possible. Once the fire is really going and you can tell it is at beyond a welding heat just below the tuyere, you can begin the charging, but for such small stuff like the wire you will probably want about 3 minutes between each run, also I like how you're binding the wire together like that, that is a very smart move and likely why the puck came out as together as it did! What are the sparks of that puck like? Is there any really high carbon in there? From what I see it looks like the stuff is fairly low to medium carbon. I'll attach a photo of a piece I made recently that broke off the larger puck, it's nearly cast iron. As far as phosphorous goes, in my experiments I have noticed that phosphorous does not really melt out of steel in this process. I have found it inhibits carbon uptake and increases decarb, leaving you with nearly iron after just a few folds. I have been making mostly Japanese style pieces with this steel so I am folding a minimum of 11 times and as much as 18 recently, so if the materials isn't top notch then I end up with very low carbon at the end. If you buy nails from the Old Globe elevator for instance, or use high p iron to begin with, you can remelt and add a small amount of carbon, but in my experience it really wasn't worth the effort to make hearth steel from phosphoric iron. I hope that helps some! If there's anything I didn't explain well or doesn't make sense I'll do my best to help!
  7. 1 point
    I see a new thread title coming called Bowie Obsession lol. I’m pretty sure it will look good when it’s done I haven’t tried to venture into making a Bowie yet. I want to but, I’m not ready yet.
  8. 1 point
    Finished these today. 3 different sizes of em'. The hooks at the bottom are for hanging towels on. These were all forged from 1/2" square drop from work. They are adjustable for different shelf sizes. The only thing about the adjustability of these is that I still need to make 90° brackets to connect the corner of the wall and shelf. That will add the 3rd contact point and lock everything in place. These can be very minimal in size.
  9. 1 point
    Today I began my Sayber OSG build. It's horizontal/vertical no weld grinder(I am probably going to save some time and weld a few parts though). Got a 2hp 3phase motor with a VFD to bolt on it. I am excited like a kid on Xmas . You can get the CAD files for free at sayberosg.com
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