Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I got my combination D-Guard/Shell Guard rough forged today. The shell is in integral "W" mosaic while the remainder is the pattern flipped 90 degrees. I figured that it would be a challenge and I was right. Fun though!
  2. 1 point
    This is a 9" Euro Chef's knife that I did with a reversed feather damascus in 1095 and 15n20. I made the damascus with Greg Cimms up at his shop as he needed some as well. I'm really happy with how the sculpted bolster and handle came out. The handle was made from black G10, Sterling Silver, and stabilized curly maple burl. the bolster was inlet over the square shoulder of the tang blade junction. I'm going to send this one out for some pro photos.
  3. 1 point
    Howzit all, Just finished this one up for a customer. Brief was for a general purpose hunting/skinning bush knife for here Zimbabwe. Steel is 5160, handle scales are teak and liners are recycled plastic.
  4. 1 point
    I started to post this under WIP but I am venturing into uncharted territory and have some questions that qualify for the beginners section. I didn't start taking pictures until I started thinking of questions I wanted to ask so I don't have a photo of the two pieces being joined until after it was welded and drawn out. This started off as 1/2" square wrought and 1/2" x 3/16" 1095. The 1095 only extends the length of the edge, the tang is all wrought. Picture three shows the blade after rough grinding and a quick dip in vinegar to show how much steel is on the edge. The blade was normalized three times after forging. The edge steel accounts for less than a third of the total mass so my question is, will 140 degree canola oil be too fast? I have the "dime" thickness left at the edge and a hair over 3/16ths at the spine with a full flat grind. I'm wondering if that small triangular section of 1095 is going to curl up like a witch doctors fingernail when I go into the oil. If so the next one will be beefier but if anyone has any tips for where to proceed with this one on the quench it would be appreciated! This went smooth in one welding heat and was drawn out very close to welding heat so burn out shouldn't account for more than a few points but I have no idea how much carbon migration will affect the properties of the two materials Thanks in advance!
  5. 1 point
    Practice hammering is cheaper...
  6. 1 point
    A couple more pieces of equipment and you're going to need a bigger shop. That could be a summer project.
  7. 1 point
    The first time I met Emiliano was at Ashokan a couple of years ago. It was late on the first evening, I was tired from the drive, and there was alcohol involved. I was sitting around with Owen and Jake and Jul, and suddenly this freakin' awesome silver-mounted seax complete with belt and fittings appeared on the table. I looked up at the bushy-headed kid who was holding it, and said "This is damn fine work, who the hell are you? I need to know." When he smiled and said "Emiliano from the forum, don't I look like my pictures?" I had to laugh. Then he brought out his swords... Yeah, he's a force of nature.
  8. 1 point
    Look at Ryan Johnson's tactical hawks, they're done that way (well, waterjet, but still). And James Helm here on the forum. I'd consider 1/4" to be the absolute minimum for this, and might even go 3/8." On the steel, 4140 at Rc50. Practically indestructible. Or L6.
  9. 1 point
    Sure, it's a very common way of making both knife blades and tomahawks. Some of the most successful bladesmiths and tomahawks makers use this method. On thickness, I would think 1/8 is too thin, better to go with the 1/4.
  10. 1 point
    Garry, thanks for the look at beautiful New Zealand. That would be a dream hunt for the rest of us. I've had fallow deer and it's a lot like whitetail but how is the wild goat?
  11. 1 point
    A2 as long as I don't have to make the knife
  12. 1 point
    https://commonsensehome.com/rocket-mass-heaters/ http://www.dragonheaters.com/
  13. 1 point
    Even though I've got one Bowie in progress, I like to have more than one going at a time so I got in a little forge time tonight. This one will have a large recurve blade of W1 and a damascus D-Guard with an added clam shell curving backwards as a protector for the hand. This one will definately be considered a fighter. The expected OAL one this one will be 18" which could qualify as a short sword. The damascus billet shown here will eventually be the guard once I get it welded into a "W" pattern. The blade on this one is of W1. I haven't decided if I want to add an Hamon or not. That's a lot of polishing at 13".
  14. 1 point
    What I was wanting to say earlier is how I'd love to be a fly on the wall of your shop! I think you are a year older than me IIRC, but you're already a master at what you do, working at the level of smiths 3x your age! I look forward to seeing you get even better. And the cods you must have for working on antiques like that! Good incentive not to mess it up I guess! By the way, I tried your water quench method on a 1075 blade the other day. I thought I undershot it like you said, but still ended up with a crack.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks Brian! I would be scared to try it now on something I had 50 or so hours in but I started out with this one wanting to try some things I haven't done before. I'm pretty happy with the blade but I may end up cursing before I'm done with the handle. Tomorrow I plan to forge and grind some simple wood carving tools and start some test carving in preparation for the handle.
  16. 1 point
    Why is that? If I'm ever going to use stainless, this seems like the stainless steel that behaves closest to carbon steel. Easy to grind and polish, low carbide volume, fine grain, good hardness, takes a keen edge and excellent toughness. Of course, this is all based on feedback I've read... @Gerhard Gerber Most makers use plate quench on this steel because it has a tendency to warp. An oil quench would only make it worse.
  17. 1 point
    Hello, within the past few days I got this knife finished up, I wanted a tanto with a wider blade and this is what I came up with. Sort of a tanto saber hybrid. It is 1/2 scale, I have this blade in full size as well, I forged a short sword blade a long time ago and it is very close to this blade, just twice as big. You can see it fits in my hand, though the grip is slim, you could hold onto it well enough if you had to fight a goblin. It was a nice knife to make, no hickups but I did switch out the mokume on the guard, it was copper/brass now its nickle/copper/silver. Blade: just under 8" Handle: 3.5" Blade thickness: 4mm at the base, tip is 1.5-1.75mm Blade Width at the widest point: a little over 3/4" The blade is edge quenched 1075, took five tries to get the whole edge, ill etch it when I get more vinegar. The tsuka and saya are ipe burl, though the handle only has curls, it was all one piece of wood so the grain flows through the whole piece. The guard is mild steel with a mokume band, im always trying new stuff with my guards on japanese style knives, the ends of the band have notches filed in them that fit in two spots on the guard and it is hammered on, its not going to fall out but if you hit it with something or took pliers to it then the mokume band might come out. The habaki and the fittings are copper, the fuchi and kashira are decorated with one engraved line going around each piece. Very simple and I like how it turned out. The mekugi is copper, im pretty sure I made it by sticking the copper in the chuck of my flex shaft and while spinning it I used a file to taper the copper. The handle wrap is cotton ribbon or something like that, id been looking for something I could use to wrap small handles with and found this at walmart. Anyways, heres pictures. The kashira, or the fuchi maybe, the rear fitting was re-sanded and its still taking on a patina and looks a little odd.
  18. 1 point
    I love your style. Very beautiful to my eye
  19. 1 point
    That is another good looking knife! I would recognize it as one of yours by the style and workmanship alone. Nice job keeping the san mai layers centered up well. I would have ground the bevels up higher, but I guess you have to have room for the logo
  20. 1 point
    Ok, I'm too excited about this to not share it. I'm working on my second attempt at mosaic pattern, and just got my first glimpse of the pattern. I'm kind of bouncing up and down like a kid at Christmas right now...
  21. 1 point
    I don't put the cutler's rivets in until after the epoxy because unlike a corby bolt, you don't have much room to sand into the head of the rivet. Therefore the surface of the scale has to be pretty close to the final dimension before they go in. I felt the rivets I had in stock were either too small or to large for this handle so I took some of the larger ones, and turned the heads down to 1/4". Then it was just a lot of rasping, filing, and sanding to get the final handle shape. Here is a quick snapshot of the mostly finished knife. I need to do a few touch-ups, and get some glamor shots done.
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...