Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Yes - Very much against my nature - I made the conscious decision to not take a ton of time on hand sanding the blade, so I left them with a Trizac A45 finish on the bevels. The Scandi ground blade has the final grind on the bevel from the Extra fine DMT diamond stone. If I were to hand sand the blade I would have done it before I assembled the handles.
  2. 2 points
    I'd like to clarify this a little. A hardened blade may or may not be 100% martensite. This is dependent on alloy and heat treat process, which we'll ignore for now. If at the end of a quench there is any retained austenite (that which did not convert to martensite) then heating the steel up a bit (the temper cycle) can give enough energy to convert the austenite to martensite. Double tempering gives 2 chances for this, and ensures that the vast majority of all the martensite, including the sections that were retained austenite that converted to martensite during the temper, gets tempered. As for the time: A phase change happens at the speed of sound for the material. So when a given section of steel crosses a transformation temperature (heating up or cooling down), the arrangement of atoms shifts really fast. In this case we are talking about BCC --> FCC --> BCT (body center cubic = ferrite, face center cubic = austenite, body center tetragonal = martensite). Now, the whole blade won't change that fast, because the temperature in the blade doesn't change that fast. It is just that when the temperature DOES change, it is a really quick shift of the atomic lattice. I put this here just to say: this isn't how tempering works. Tempering is better described as a diffusion process. When we heat up BCC and it shifts to FCC, life is good and there good movement of the carbon was the gap in the lattice structure for it moves. When we go from FCC to BCT, the carbon atom gets pinned not quite where it would like to be, thus BCC doesn't form, as the lattice has a carbon wedged where there isn't supposed to be a gap. This stretches the lattice, thus putting it in a stress state. When we temper steel we are giving it the energy needed for the carbon to diffuse out of the most stressed position, but only enough to get slightly less stress. The more energy (heat), the more the carbon can get "unwedged" in the lattice. Diffusion times energy (heat) and time. Thus the soak time during a temper. Energy is much more important, as that really is what allows the carbon to move. The time length the steel is given this energy just ensures the carbon has time to use that energy. Think loose rubber band versus stretched rubber band. The stretched rubber band is very difficult to stretch further, and more stretching will cause it to break. Tempering is kind of like "un-stretching" the rubber band just a tiny bit. Just enough to get off the breaking point, but not so much that it is loose.
  3. 1 point
    Almost a tomahawk, maybe a substitute.
  4. 1 point
    Just saw this, no worries sir. "Brain flatulence" gave me a good laugh . Another for the list: Artists use lies to tell the truth, while politicians use them to cover the truth up.
  5. 1 point
    Good thinkin,' that is gonna look great when it's done..............
  6. 1 point
    $2.14 per belt is pretty dang cheap.
  7. 1 point
    I doubt that would work, as the metal will conduct the heat too much.
  8. 1 point
    Interesting. I'm curious to see what it will look like polished out with a final etch.
  9. 1 point
    I was forced into adapting the way I chucked up the stainless for the pommel as my the chuck on my little lathe wouldn't accept the 1 1/2" piece so I had to get creative. Since I'm planning on adding a Damascus inlay on each side of the pommel, I needed a hole anyway to allow for a through pin to hold in inlays. (When I say a through pin I mean that it will be more like a corby bolt that will be welded to each inlay.)
  10. 1 point
    I have used .03-.04 for mine. The only time I went with .06 was on a larger bladed folder Like 5 inches
  11. 1 point
    If it holds it holds... Gary probably thought ahhh what the heck lol.
  12. 1 point
    OK now it will let me see the pics, cool !!! Ah yes the good ol' bolt mandrel is a good quick and dirty set up.................
  13. 1 point
    Young guys should hang out with old guys some times. Us old guys know stuff ..........................
  14. 1 point
    Small set of ice tongs that I'm 90% sure there wrought iron. Won for:$6
  15. 1 point
    I like that you use unorthodox ways to hold stuff in your lathe. You should see some of the weirdness I end up doing to chuck things up.
  16. 1 point
    Let's just hope I'm right... I'm pretty sure that is all sound. A bit simplified, but why get even deeper?
  17. 1 point
    I had meeting that took up most of the morning but got in enough shop time to get this one rough forged & normalized and a start on making the round pommel. This pommel will eventually get an inlaid piece of the blade steel on each side.
  18. 1 point
    I've had good results with W-1 drill rod from MSCDirect. It's made in the USA, and not too expensive for what it is. The W-1 / O-1 drill rod from Fastenal is imported.
  19. 1 point
    Gotta love the little smile on JD's face after the second 2x4 bites it. Shayne Carter has a video of him doing the MS test (practice) with a Damascus blade. He completes the bend and it has a bend set in the blade. So he cold hammers it out straight and repeats the entire test with the same blade.
  20. 1 point
    Haven't had a whole lot of time for this project the last couple days. I did manage to get them all sanded. Next step is the sheath. I'm trying to decide if I want to inlay antler in the sheath or show off more of the pretty wood... Or maybe both options. We shall see. Adam
  21. 1 point
    I managed to get the rest of the pieces cut for the canoe and welded today. Unfortunately my white-out had gotten old and only did a marginal job. I spent twice the normal amount of time removing the canoe from the billet. I was wearing out by the time that I got the billet free from the canoe and didn't take the time to surface grind the billet past a 36 grit. Here's a look at the pattern after a quick etch:
  22. 1 point
    Today started off as a perfect day for making steel as it was cold & sunny. As we are forecast to get a snow storm soon, I'm going to knock off for the day. I got the basic 42 x 4 "W' pattern welded and drawn out for tile cutting. I got a start on cutting the tiles for the can (canoe) mosaic in what I am going to call a braided "W". I realize that there are some voids inside of the canoe by doing it this way but I don't expect any big problems. I'm sure that I will need to grind the top & bottom of the billet once welded though in order to get a symmetrical pattern. The tiles are 3/4" of an inch thick so I have plenty of material to work with. (I'm not sure if you can tell from the photo but I added two sacrificial wedges to the end of the canoe and painted them with whiteout. These are only to aid in the welding of the end of the billet and will get discarded.)
  23. 1 point
    Here is 2 more items I got within the last few weeks I think is worth showing off. A nice wood stove that has a broken hinge pin. I have to try to drill out the old pin or just cut the old piece off and re-weld on another piece that is already pre drilled. I think I'm going to go for the cut and weld method. Won for: $16 Here is a blower but it doesn't run. After taking a quick look the wiring could use some doctoring so we will see if it will run. Won for: $28
  24. 1 point
    There is 3 main sites that I use. The first is based in Fremont MICHIGAN (where Gerber baby food is made) called jnjonlineauction.com. The second is my go to site for industrial type equipment the prey on businesses that are shutting down. Its called orbitbid.com. The third and most recent add on to the list which come to find out is affiliated with orbitbid.com and I made another account and screwed things up a bit.....the main location I look at is in Grand Rapids and they have another location in Detroit area but it's too far of a drive and I'm not a fan of Detroit but it's called repocast.com.
  25. 1 point
    Just remember that Liam Fuller on FiF burned his shop down not closely watching the turkey fryer he was using to heat his quench oil.
  26. 1 point
    Another option is a turkey fryer set real low. Typically by the time I normalize and quench the oil temp is just about perfect. Good luck!
  27. 1 point
    Ammo Can would be great. Just make sure it water tight before you put oil into it. I used to just heat up a piece of steel (usually a piece of rebar) in my forge at the same time I was heating the blade, and then quench it into the oil until it was temp I wanted.
  28. 1 point
    For those curious the CE for the top chemistry is 0.63%. CE=C+Mn/6+(Cr+Mo+V)/5+(Ni+Cu)/15 For the most part, it doesn't really matter what goes into the steel. Most things can be removed, at least those things that are most likely to get in there that you would want to control. The biggest exception is Cu. Easy to get in by mistake (e.g. if copper wiring isn't removed from a car before it is crushed/shredded), and not easy to get out. Ni is also hard to get out, but it isn't likely to get into the steel in harmful quantities. I'd be pretty embarrassed to make a heat with that much sulfur though (0.044%!). I start to worry about quality of steel when S gets above 0.025% (possibly less, depending on alloy/grade). That is really going to hinder impact toughness and ductility.
  29. 1 point
    For a little more on the last statement: Here is an electric arc furnace (EAF) being tapped. The metal has already been melted via 3 graphite electrodes pumping in thousands of amps of electricity. For that size, it is probably about 2000-6000 amps per electrode (3 electrodes, one for each phase of 3-phase power), generally at about 200 volts. All that electricity arcing into the metal causes a stirring action, as do the thermal currents (hotter metal near the arcs, cooler metal further from the arcs). Then the metal is tapped (poured out of the furnace into a ladle). You can see the melters adding ladle treatments: de-gassers and inoculants. The larger bars are probably aluminum, great de-oxidizer. After this, the ladle will be taken to the caster. It will pour the metal into the caster in much the same way that the furnace poured it into the ladle. The caster then makes the ingots/blanks that will be rolled into rebar. Pour any liquid from one container, to another, to another, then a final pour. How segregated do you really think it can be?
  30. 1 point
    It has to do with construction codes. Welding can cause hard or soft spots in medium-carbon rebar, either of which throw off the specs due to the risk of failure. That's why you see a lot of wire-tied rebar on construction sites. Nobody wants to be blamed for a bridge collapse.
  31. 1 point
    Ti's better to be a warrior in a garden than to be a gardener in a war.............................. OOPS !!! I forgot where I saw that one sorry, Will W ............. Very profound statement indeed.................
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...