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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    After posting asking for help and advice in making my first knife (and realising I was in way over my head), I have finally finished it! Yes I have made mistakes along the way, and it took far longer than i could have ever guessed, but all that aside I am super pleased with how this has turned out. It has been a very steep learning curve, and now I want to do it again... Thanks to everyone who contributed to my original plea for help. I couldn't have done it without your input! Adam
  2. 2 points
    Have this one ready to ship off. A Buffalo Skinner in 12C27 stainless with curve backed buffalo horn bolster with black walnut handles. Normally I do these in 1095 HC but this was a special order in the stainless There are another 10 knives ready for final shaping but the buff skinner had been on hold whiles I waited on the thicker stainless to come in so I got it ready first and had done the sheath when I did the last batch.
  3. 2 points
    I’m not full time either, nor do I think I ever will be. This is also one of the reasons I like this forum - The guys here tend to not go that route... Anyway, in order to get this back on topic here’s my current view. Just tying some stuff. Working on this is actually quite a bit hard than a knife because of the curve radius...
  4. 2 points
    Today I sanded the second of two commissions to 400 grit and sealed the ironwood with some Danish oil. I also made a video of how I avoid warping a blade in the quench. That will be uploaded to my YouTube channel in the next day or so. I HT'd two blades including this W-2 dagger. Hardened to ~65 HRC, tempered out at ~59 HRC Clay applied. Tempered.
  5. 2 points
    Haha, If you hadn't noticed yet, this hobby isn't as much about making knives as it is making tools that can be used for knifemaking.
  6. 1 point
    For all my 12C27 knives, I put the blade in a stainless foil packet after dusting it with talcum powder. I make my packets long and can get three uses from them as I cut the end seam of after each use. Harden them at 1950F for 5 minutes and then cool between one inch alloy plates in a carpenters vice set vertically then temper at 350F for 2 hours
  7. 1 point
    Length 57 cm, width 4.5 cm, hole 21 mm, weight 480 grams. Tip length 10 cm
  8. 1 point
    That's one of the things we remember to do at the art shows. It's great that we have all these pieces of art in the $500- $2000 range, but most people only have $40 in their pocket......So, we have to create a bunch of doo-dads too! Most knife buyers will fork out for an EDC/hunter type. The high-end Bowies are a specialty item.
  9. 1 point
    Working on this faceted bolster for a santoku. I think I love playing with geometry. Perhaps this will become my trademarks someday
  10. 1 point
    Normally I only make hunters when I have a small remainder from a damascus billet left over from a Bowie. I need to get more of these made before I re-open my public shop this spring though so I may devote my next entire billet to hunters. High end Bowies are fun to make but the low end hunters sell much more quickly.
  11. 1 point
    Nice... But seriously Gary where’s the Bowie lol.
  12. 1 point
    Good stuff.................
  13. 1 point
    I couldn't wait. I had knives to HT. Worked like a charm it seems.
  14. 1 point
    Those should fly out the door! Better make more......
  15. 1 point
    Completed Hunters:
  16. 1 point
    I like to bevel the handle so it is slightly thinner at the bolsters than it is at the heel. The bevel (and all the rest of the finish sanding) is done on the 9" disc. To bevel the handle, you hold the knife in the center of the wheel. The outer edge of the wheel turns faster, and cuts harder, than the inside. I Start on the high part of the scale at the dovetail and grind a flat-ish plane between the front of the bolster and the heel of the handle. Then it's time to start rounding the scales for comfort. This is done on the top of the wheel. Here you can see the flat bevel on the left and the started rounding on the right. The rounding at 60, 150, & 220 grits is done on the hard disc. Then the profiles are taken to 400 (A45 Trizac gator) on the platen and the finger notch on the small wheel. Grits higher than 220 on the rounds are done on a rubber backed disc. The finger notch is also hand sanded to 400 grit to wash out any grind lines. I got one of these two done to 400 grit all around.
  17. 1 point
    For finishing the handle, I first file off the pins flush with the wood and flatten the scales down so there's no glue on the surface. This is a fast operation in preparation for the profile grind. You just want to get the faces smooth so you can get a square cut on the 2x72. The profiles (except the finger notch) are done across the spine at 60, 120, and 220 grits. The 200 grit is then done inline by holding the knife vertically on the platen. both point up and point down. Roll it all the way through the point of the blade and the end of the handle. Then you do the finger notch with a small wheel. I use a 3/4" . The profiles at 220 grit. Now I'm ready to take the sides down and taper the handle.
  18. 1 point
    That is an attractive knife and certainly looks friendly in the hand. I love functional designs like that; they speak for themselves. Form indeed does follow function.
  19. 1 point
    They say that 3 is the charm. Thanks to Alan for reminding me that I had 40 gallons of fresh medium speed oil out back. 64 HRC hardness chisel skated across the edge.
  20. 1 point
    hey thanks for the comments guys, I did mean tumbling sorry I ended up etching it to clean off some of the scales, then i tumbled it for about 10 mins by hand. this's currently what it looks like. I'm going for a battle-scarred m9 bayonet from Counter strike source, the last photo I will be doing a leather stacked handle instead of the fiber glass micarta they normally have. what do you guys think of its current look ?
  21. 1 point
    This little video is from Nick Rossi participating in a 2-Knife challenge. Basically this is a challenge to forge 2 knives as identical to one another as possible: Take the two knife challenge! Forge 2 blades within 1/16 of each other in profile and 1/32 in cross section. Seasoned Beginners should be able to do this challenge with a little concentration and Intermediate smiths should be able to do this with no thought at all. For those of you looking for an excellent method for forging a partial/stub tang Hunter/EDC/utility blade, try this method.
  22. 1 point
    Really like both of them but think I prefer the handle colours in this one to its 'mate' .
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