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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Since I haven't had much time for knives or access to many tools for a bit, I've been doing more research, and getting more interested in historical authenticity for my knife designs. When you go to make a knife in a certain style, it's easiest to modern pieces, which perpetuates a cycle and often leads to knives that don't look much like the originals. There's nothing wrong with this, and I have seen some modern takes on classic knives that are absolutely beautiful. However, I have recently been making my effort to base my work on originals when I make a historic style, which can prove tricky. I recently found this source here: https://digitaltmuseum.se/search/?aq=topic%3A"Lapska föremål %3A Personlig utrustning %3A Knivar"&o=0&n=560 which contains almost 200 pictures of old Scandinavian (many of them Sami) knives, so I thought I would share it here. A few of the pictures I liked: I also did a bit of poking around in a search of "knivar" from the website's home page, and it looks like you can find a wide variety of things, including some archaeological finds as well. Hopefully this is the right part of the forum for this, and that maybe someone else can get some use out of all the information that's there.
  2. 1 point
    Hi guys I'm new to the forum have only been making knives for a couple of months, I thought you might want to see my first attempt, Made from 1075+cr and hardened and tempered in my converted gas cylinder coal forge. Forge scale was left on intentionally as I though it was "different" The scales are special to me, the were made from an oak branch that was cut from a tree in my garden, the tree was grown from an acorn about 25 years ago by my son, so as I said special to me. I gave the knife to my son this Christmas and he loves it I've started the next project a Tanto, but with 6 bevels to file and get symmetrical it's proving to be quite a B #@ch! Perhaps I should have finished the belt grinder first!!
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    And be up-front that they will rust and discolor. Just today my wife freaked herself out by using my 52100 petit chef to slice lasagna. She forgot to clean it off immediately and the tomato sauce left a very interesting black patina. Which I get to go polish out Saturday...
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Looking good! Those pins add to the overall look. Well done Gerhard!
  7. 1 point
    No different than other woods that have other than straight grain. Sand fine and buff. finish with my oil mix ( equal parts tung and linseed oil with veg turps and spar varnish) for a few coats, wiping off after 10 to 30 minutes, then wax.
  8. 1 point
    Hi all! still going through all my firsts, next up is integral. also, first knife made on the new DIY 2x72 forged from 5160 17mm thick round bar. handle is teak. finish on the blade is mustard patina.
  9. 1 point
    I’m actually surprised a 20mm didn’t shoot through that anvil! I guess i need to add anvil filled walls to my tinfoil hats for protection against the man.
  10. 1 point
    Well my kids didn't win the Bladesmithing contest this year, they did win the award for "Exceptional Use of Materials" I think they threw everything but the kitchen sink into that crucible I am very proud of them all the same. They worked long and hard to produce their knife. As soon as they get back we will start laying plans for 2021 many of the crew will be Seniors then. Florida took first place, Colorado School of Mines took second and McMaster took third. They don't do any further ranking but one of the Professors who was with them and was around during the judging said our kids were in the top ten.
  11. 1 point
    Here are three of them! Horn handles, as per the early Anglo-Saxon period originals on which they're based.
  12. 1 point
    So with the present blade in this thread scrapped I started fresh on a new one this morning. I am much more pleased with the way this one turned out. I did normalize it. I would still maybe call it a hunter just not sure yet. I even tried out a Ricasso I did my best with it. So it's by no means perfect. But you can tell it's there in the blade. I even used FAR less material for the tang than I normally would and forged that flat to meet the surface of the blade. I did make sure to straighten this blade out as well. Lets just hope grinding goes well and I don't screw it up. I'd actually like to have a DECENT looking finished product. So hope this turns out. I'm just glad the weathers going to hold out for the next week.
  13. 1 point
    Looks like good stuff.
  14. 1 point
    Looks a lot like the French 135Cr3. They use it extensively for knives. Edit: it is indeed the same steel
  15. 1 point
    Thanks Joshua, that WHOLE video helped! If there's anything wrong with Youtube, this is it.......I get Alec Steele shoved down my throat. which only makes me jealous, and never in a million years would I have found your video if you hadn't linked it.....
  16. 1 point
    This is awesome. I am by no means attempting to make "authentic" knives, and this definitely proves that to myself. I do love seeing the older techniques and comparing them to the modern versions. It also makes me feel somewhat better about my engraving, some of the more modern makers do incredible work with virtually unattainable precision, but these knives have just as much character because you can tell they were made as working knives with what was available to these people. That is one of my favorites. Thanks!
  17. 1 point
    Steve ! You was perfect by telling me about this place ! Alan and Jake, thanks a lot for informations. Jake, your post is really important for me. What you explain here help me a lot. Did you got a reference concerning that kind of informations ? You guys all rocks ! (ps: if in my way, i find something pretty interessant, be sure it will be post here !) Joel Mercier, did you only polish or you used an acid for revelation ? (it seem, on the video, that the blade is a little bit black)(i'm not pretty sure about what i'm seeing on my phone) Thanks a lot, Julien
  18. 1 point
    Basically, clay is the absolute least important variable in hamon creation, to the degree that most of the classic hamon structures can be produced without clay. Steel composition, hada style, thermal history, quench temperature, quenchant and quenchant temperature are all more important. About the best that can be said about clay layout is that the overall shape of the hamon (ie how far from the edge it forms at any given point) can be influenced by laying down a bead of clay where you want the habuchi to form, that gunome are usually produced by single ashi laid perpendicular to the edge, and that choji are often produced by laying down ashi as an 'X' shape or an inverted 'Y' shape...
  19. 1 point
    Every knife needs a sheath so have been cutting and sewing a bit of leather to send this last lot of knives off. Still have to dye the edges and hot wax them but will get to that in the morning, sharpen the blades and they will all be ready to ship.
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