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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hey guys, its been a long time without any knifemaking for me. (something around 1 year) i was not in the mood. i dont realy understand why, but hey! sometimes you need even from the best hobby in the world a break. anyway, i made me a small blade for my belt. and it was great fun to me. and i think im hooked again. allready cant wait to forge again. its made from C100 steel with ebony scales. a sheath is already in work. hope to post some pics in the next days. and a little video for entertainment. thank you for your attention and have a nice day! Geko
  2. 2 points
    Doing the OKCA Show next weekend. Its the only show I do anymore and am looking forward to its opening. As you can tell I forged another ax head and just finished up another knife. The knife has a 5 1/2" 1065 blade, mild steel fittings and a sambar stag handle. 9 1/2" overall. Ax head is 4 1/2" and haft is 8" and made out of hickory.
  3. 1 point
    Here is something I made for a friend - he wanted it simple with a rust browned/blackened blade. Handle is hickory 18" long. Blade edge is 3" and 6 1/4" from edge to back of poll (1018 body with a 1075 bit). Nothing fancy, just a basic hawk using Alan's great tutorial to guide me along. One of these days I have to try my hand at doing some fancy file work on one. Critiques always appreciated.
  4. 1 point
    Well, at last it is almost finished, it needs to be sharpened, as it is a gift for my brother, I am going to take it to be sharpened by a professional. This has been an interesting project because it is the first time I do many things that I had not done before. It's the first time I make a knife of this "kitchen" and more "Japanese" style, that I make a hidden tang knife and that I make a handle for this type of knives, that I make a handle composed of several materials and the first Once I use ebony. The knife is made of semi-stainless steel D2, 9,8 in total long, 4.3 of handle, 5.5 blade and 5.t in of edge with 1 in wide and 0,13 in. The handle is composed of red heart and ebony wood with separator of brass. It is wider at the end becoming narrower towards the leaf. The adjustment of the blade and the handle is not perfect but I think that to be the first time I do it I think it's not bad. Well, actually there is a lot to improve but, in general, I am quite happy with it considering that I'm just an amateur A greeting Cj
  5. 1 point
    https://thediggings.com/places/va0232390759/mines?commodity=iron Looks like you had even more iron than I did!
  6. 1 point
    Get some of each and do this: http://www.leesauder.com/pdfs/dumplings.pdf That will tell you which one has a higher yield. I'm inclined to say the hematite will, just based on the color of the sandy stuff. But that's not a real test, yellow iron oxide is just as good as red. The sandy stuff will be easier to crush after roasting, which is something to consider.
  7. 1 point
    These two finish out this weeks work and have very nice walnut with the buff skinner being special order with my makers mark in 3 brass pins in the buffalo horn bolster and the general purpose knife having special selection NZ Walnut. I find the general purpose knife about perfect for when I am breaking down an animal. before the boning and steaking knife come into play. All the leather got done today so only the hot waxing and a sharpen to do in the morning before they all ship off.
  8. 1 point
    Mama, is going to be a happy lady!!
  9. 1 point
    Ya dun good on it !!.............
  10. 1 point
    After a rough grind & a quick etch to see what the pattern looks like: For some unknown reason, the pattern got off a little off center toward the back end of the blade. That sometimes will happen at the very back end of the billet as that's where distortion is most likely to happen. But then again, I've never made a perfect piece of damascus.
  11. 1 point
    Got my grizzly new for around 7 bones.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks for the analysis of the steel Daniel, that makes things a bit clearer. The low levels of Carbide Forming Elements in the steel can do some strange things with the patterning and copper can also change things in the ingot... Nickel and Copper are actually your greatest CFEs in the analysis by a long way... very curious. It is possible that the two part patterning that you are getting is as a result of these two ingredients, at least in part. I do have a question to you though before I talk more about the final blade pattern. These pics that you shared about the 1.7% inogot... were they pics of the raw ingot surface or if not, what was your processing to get it to this stage? I know what my eyes are telling me but knowing what you did to the metal to get to this stage would help to know for sure. Don't feel bad, you have produced some really nice looking steel here, and the fact that it is different means that there is something to learn from it. learning is always good.
  13. 1 point
    As long as it's a hydraulic model it would work, you just might be limited in how tall your billet can be. Do not try to convert a mechanical one. Much like a punch press, the mechanical ones have to complete the cycle and will do so, which means something is going to break in a spectacular fashion.
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