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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Just sent this one away. 1095 blade, copper blade collar, blued steel fittings with copper accents. Carved bog oak handle. Bog oak and leather sheath: let me know what you think...
  2. 1 point
    I decided to try working on knives in a grouping of more than two. I typically only work on one or two at a time. So here is the beginning. It started out as 7 blades. Some got discarded along the way and replaced, some got redesigned after forging, others just got tossed. First I grab a pencil and some paper and design the whole knife. Then it's take a template (or make one) and choose the handle material and prepare the blade steel stock. Then it's fire up the forge and start banging them out. I keep the templates handy during forging. I even draw the profile with a soapstone on the anvil face and hold my forging over it to see where I need to push the steel. Eventually, I wind up with a bunch of forged blades.
  3. 1 point
    A couple of weeks back I was asked to do a pair of my buffalo skinners and when we were going over the details b]he asked if I could make them shorter but that would have unbalanced the visual and the actual so I redesigned with a similar style to fall within his criteria and called it the old western skinner and about the same time mu US agent was asked if I would make the J T Ranger with a shorter blade but the same thing applied so I designed up a smaller version and called it the pocket ranger so cut out a few blades today and added a pair from the ready drawer for this weeks orders although I am waiting on some blaze orange and tan liners for some of them so it may be a coupe of weeks till it arrives. From the top there is a safari knife, a light hunter, mini skinner, 3 of the new old western skinners, 2 pocket rangers and a J T Ranger
  4. 1 point
    AS40, 41, & 42: The Sierra Sidekick These were sitting on the bench for a while half finished, as the devastating loss of my beloved labrador Trixie shut me down for a while. But, as she always stopped by my bench to check my progress throughout my projects, I figured she'd want me to get off my tookus and finish them... I'd think these would make a good knife to carry when out for a deep woods hike. All three came in at 11" overall, and weigh in at 14 oz each. I used 1/4" 1075 barstock, made by stock removal. The handles are made from Wenge, Bubinga, and Padauk. As always, the blades were heat treated by my friend Lyndle Driggers of J&L Cutlery.
  5. 1 point
    If it's magnetic it's magnetite or maghemite. If it's not magnetic, roast it up and see if it has become magnetic. If it won't stick to a magnet after roasting it's not ore, at least not for our purposes. Manganese is purple-black and often occurs as the bottom layer of limonite/goethite orebanks in the Appalachians.
  6. 1 point
    A gentle simmer in water with a little trisodium phosphate may help, maybe followed by a soak in 20% hydrogen peroxide, the kind hair salons use to bleach hair if you want it really white. The simmer is what we did to prepare specimens in zooarchaeology lab, and while it stinks to high heaven (so much so that the engineering lab next door called the EPA on us, after which we proudly wore their assessment of us on T-shirts: "U.T. Zooarch lab: EPA certified obnoxious but not toxic!") it does remove much of the smell from the final product. Just don't overdo it or the bone will get crumbly. Skim the grease every few minutes and don't boil hard. When the grease stops rising, stop simmering and let dry. If you use trisodium phosphate, just add a pinch. It breaks down grease and too much will stop it rising as well as make the bone crumbly. Oh, and if you use the peroxide, wear gloves and a facemask. That stuff will hurt you!
  7. 1 point
    Nicely done........................
  8. 1 point
    Depends on how things cool/solidify (or in some situations, how they melt!). Generally speaking, all elements besides iron get concentrated outside of the forming dendrites during solidification of cast steel. But things start to get a little weird when you have more things going on, like during a smelt. You can never look at just the melting point of a single element. You have to take into account the eutectic point of the given elements, which is hard enough to do with 2 elements, let alone several at the same time.
  9. 1 point
    That's not the case. Copper alloys can take up hydrogen and oxygen. Hydrogen causes brittleness and oxygen causes porosity. So you need to ensure the metal is in a reducing environment (preferably have some charcoal floating in it if you use a gass forge), and don't overheat it. The hotter and longer the metal is heated, the more gasses it absorbs.
  10. 1 point
    He sells internationally Gerhard
  11. 1 point
    Lucky I've always liked Cymbaline and Julia Dream... I had some rare recordings from the 70's somewhere...
  12. 1 point
    I use the NZ made Scary Sharp system with 4 grades of stones but generally only use 2 or three for working knives and finish with a hard backed strop https://www.scarysharp.co.nz/
  13. 1 point
    I did end up ordering the 10" contact wheel version. Norm shipped it out within 1-2 days via UPS. I'll have a lot more to say once I get it running but first impressions are that it seems really well constructed. With the 10" wheel, the contact wheel needs to overhang the edge of the bench as there's not enough room for the belt to clear the work surface otherwise. The only thing that doesn't seem overbuilt is the tool rest. I don't use tool rests so it doesn't affect me but it looks like it's cut out of 1/8" steel. It does feel sufficient but you could easily replace it with something thicker if that's something that would be needed (it attaches with 4 screws). It does tilt down but haven't measured how much yet. Anyway, can't say much since I haven't run it but... it does look good. Going to make a bench for it in the next couple days and will have more feedback then.
  14. 1 point
    I don't use jigs, angle setting tools, or other mechanical aids, because I don't make one size and shape of knife. Your edge has to be appropriate for what you're sharpening. I don't use the same angles on tomahawks and axes as I do on kitchen knives, and swords have their own issues. I tend to set the secondary bevel with a 400 grit belt on the platen, then move to stones. I use oil stones. The first one is a big Norton combination India stone that is pretty coarse on one side and medium fine on the other. If it won't cut paper ( or shave hair) right off the belt it doesn't go to the stone. You can feel the hair being cut at this stage, as a slight pull. From the India stone it goes to a hard Arkansas stone, then I finish it off with a translucent extra-fine Arkansas stone. These are very hard to find, but they'll finish off a fine edge like nothing else. The only problem is they tend to be tiny (about an inch wide by four inches long), so on larger blades I use them rather like a Japanese finger stone, moving the stone along the edge rather than the edge along the stone. At this point it should be able to pop hair without you feeling it. Finally, depending on the intended purpose of the blade, it may get stropped on wood-backed leather charged with white diamond buffing compound. This puts a mirror polish on the edge and guarantees scary shaving sharpness. So why don't I do that to every blade? There are two schools of thought about how polished the edge needs to be, and I have found that for some jobs a stropped edge is actually not as good a cutter as a stoned edge. These jobs are slicing tomatoes and cutting free-hanging rope. The ever-so-slightly rough edge left by the stones actually seems to act as micro-serrations to make the cut on tomato skin and hemp rope go easier. So much so on rope that if I were sharpening only for a rope cut competition I wouldn't even use the fine stones, I'd stop after the fine side of the India stone. The grooves left by the stone seem to grab the rope and cut, whereas the polished edge from stropping seems to slide off the fibers. For things like woodworking chisels and pocket knives I go full-on polished, for the chisels and gouges because it leaves a polished cut that needs no sanding, and for pocketknives because I can. A stropped edge works better on leather for fine controlled cutting. I think waterstones are fine, but not really necessary unless you're doing Japanese-style polishing. Plus they're messy and easy to wear out of flat. But that's just me.
  15. 1 point
    Dont feel bad I haven't been able to forge lately either same been stuck inside lol. But at least I've been getting to work on my press under my car port at least. Being sick sucks I hope I dont get sick haven't been in almost 2 years now. With out a cold.
  16. 1 point
    Today was a day for experimenting. After spending the majority of it making different styles & shapes of guards for this little dagger I went back to the original forged ball-tip guard from 416 and sent the rest to the round file. (the shiny spots on the side of the guard is where I had to grind the sides parallel in order to chuck them up in my mill for making the tang slot.) I plan on adding a front handle spacer from some left-over mosaic damascus to this hilt but found that it needed to be annealed before I could mill a tang slot in it so that's a job for tomorrow after it comes out of the annealing oven. You can't really see it here but the mastodon scales for this one were too thin for what I wanted to do so I added some 1/8" ivory micarta to the back of each one for added thickness. Once everything gets ground to shape & polished I think you'll like it.
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