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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I have this small piece of black walnut.
  2. 1 point
    Hello Forum, Its been too long since I posted here ! - still pop in for a browse quite often though. Ive been fairly productive making wise (by my standards) for the last year or so, and seem to be finding my groove with chefs knives. I have a strong bias on the forging of the blade, and forging as much geometry into them as I can, I am finding my way with grinding and handles, but a bit of me still views them as necessary evils so I can do more forging! This is one of the last ones I have done, the cladding is about 80 layers of wrought iron, mild, and bandsaw blade, over a core of Takefu Blue paper steel. This one has got a pure Ni barrier layer as well. The handle is Bog Oak.
  3. 1 point
    Rather then claim to know what is fact, I thought I recount my experiences and what I've been taught about linseed oil, tung oil and varnishes. My first experience with linseed oil was my grandfather showing me how he maintained his garden tools. Every Fall, he would coat the metal and wood before he put them away for the winter. He also used it to help prevent rust by coating the bed of his pickup. I don't know if he used raw or boiled, these lessons were before I was ten, and by the time I would have asked, he had passed on. Along with my grandfather's uses, my great uncle fed raw linseed oil to his livestock. While I've used linseed oil most of my life, my first real learning experience with linseed oil and finishes was the years I worked on wooded sailing vessels. As one might image, we used a lot of linseed oil, various vanishes and every boat had it's secret formulas for deck oil, spar varnish, and rigging tar. Of course, they were really all the same, but folks like to feel as if they have special knowledge. The boats left me with a good base of knowledge, and a healthy dose of skepticism. Beyond the boats, my own use of linseed oil is pretty basic, I use it the same as my grandfather, putting a coat on all my garden tools and I use it on any wood surface that I don't paint. All my craft show display boards and walls were finished with linseed oil. I like that dark yellow finish that you get with time. Light wood is a nice contrast with black iron but every scuff shows up, with the wood a little darker, not so noticeable. Most of the time, any furniture I refinish gets a linseed oil finish. The exception is when I don't want the wood to darken, then I'll use tung oil. But the devil's in the details, just how to use linseed oil and what's all this other stuff on the shelves? First off, one can not use linseed oil without thinning. It's simply too viscous to do much beyond sitting and turning into a sticky mess. If I want a nice finish on wood, I build up the finish in progressive layers. I start with linseed oil thinned out 1 to 4 ratio oil/thinner, finishing with a 4 to 1 ratio. I apply each and allow it to start to dry and then wipe off the excess. The first couple applications will not need this, as they're so thin as to almost appear not be there. If I want a hard durable finish, I'll then apply a top coat of varnish. Putting on linseed oil in this manner gives the finish a bit of depth. It also acts in the same manner for the varnish as does primer to paint. Having wrote that, most of the time, I just need/want a simple finish and will use linseed oil and thinner mixed in equal parts. Paint it on and after a few minutes wipe off the excess. I do this because it's easy. No prep work, no need to sand and if it gets scuffed up, I can reapply in the same manner. For iron, I'll use the 50/50 mix and do the same as with wood, let it start to get sticky and wipe off the excess. Let it dry and reapply. If you keep the coats thin, they will dry in a few hours. I'll do this several times to get a bit of thickness to the finish. I can not over emphasize, you have to wipe off the oil. If you don't, it will take a long time to dry. But for the most part, I no longer use linseed oil on iron. It's not long term waterproof, so it's no good for outdoor finishes and clear paste wax works just fine for indoor finishes. I've got coat racks I waxed 12 years ago and even with all the wet chore clothes I've hung from them, the finish is still good. I don't use tung oil very much, but just thin it out and put it on the same as linseed. Don't know if this is the correct method, but it appears to work. I've also been told and my experience bears this out, Tung oil is heat resistant enough to use on fireplace screens. Now about the other stuff. When talking about drying oils, there is no other stuff, there is only premixed/thinned/dryers added oils and the marketing companies do to make their mix attractive. I sure there are other drying oils out there somewhere, but most of the time, the only oils you will find in any mix is linseed, tung, and modified soy oil. Soy being the most used, as it's the least expensive. All will have a bit of linseed or tung oil to be able to make the claim. Formby Tung Oil Finish is an example of this, mostly soy with a bit of tung for the marketing claim. Some are thinned versions of the oil and some are very thinned varnish. Danish oil being one of the thinned varnishes. Bear in mind, I'm not knocking these products, they all work and some of them work quite well. Look at Tru-Oil, it's 4% linseed oil, 10% soy oil and 86% thinners and solvents, yet people on this forum speak highly of it. Penetrating oils, I've used them on floors but really don't have the experience nor knowledge to say anything about them. Spar varnish, what is it? In it's simplest form, it's linseed oil with some type of resin. For ship use, spar varnish needed to be more flexible then the varnish you would use on furniture, so the ratio of oil to resin was higher. Now days, it's a generic term for any outdoor varnish. I spend the last few weeks reading articles on the net. Lots of opinions, not much useful information. But one stuck in my mind. Here's a slice of it: “Every now and then someone comes into my shop, and in the course of conversation volunteers to me that his (it’s always a him) family had a secret formula for a finish that had been passed down for generations. Of course he wasn’t going to share it with me because then it wouldn’t be a secret anymore. So I would have to tell him what it was: 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 spar varnish (I never understood why it had to be spar varnish and not simply any varnish), and 1/3 turpentine. Now we might use mineral spirits (paint thinner) instead of turpentine, but this was an ancient formula, surely before there was mineral spirits. Surprise on his face. How did I know? Adding varnish into linseed oil is a way to make the linseed oil a little more protective and durable – not much, but a little. Doing this goes way back, at least well back into the 19th century.”
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Hi all. So this is a big 10" Bowie I'm working on at the moment. I set it as a challenge for me, to see of I can make a really good quality piece, just for me. Before the pics, does any one know how to get the smell out of bone? I found a big hippo bone on lake Kariba, cleaned it up, but when I work it smells awful and that smell has stuck to the peice itself. Any one know what's the best plan?
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    I've yet to do the final fit up of the handle pieces but I'm getting close:
  8. 1 point
    What a beautiful piece! you gave that away. Im sure it will bring the new owner a lot of joy.
  9. 1 point
    I think it turned out really nice.
  10. 1 point
    OK, now we all wait for the magic to happen......because that's what it always feels like: some WIP photos, some magic, then a beautiful knife! Can't wait to see the end result Gary, I'm inspired but scared!
  11. 1 point
    I really like the outline and dimensions of the pocket rangers - can't wait to see them finished!
  12. 1 point
    Very clean and crisp - I really like the wenge. Nice work.
  13. 1 point
    I was just curious sometimes the cameras play funky tricks.
  14. 1 point
    I looks welded. I moved my power hammer to the new house. I'm stoked now!!! Im putting the bigger motor on it hopefully tonight and redoing the tredle so it wraps around the anvil do I can work 180°around it.
  15. 1 point
    Also, even after roasting, it may still be non-magnetic yet still good to smelt. There may be some reduction during the roast and therefor some change in color.
  16. 1 point
    I got the last of the pieces roughed out today. I think that I'll wait until tomorrow to begin the hand sanding & etching of the blade as well as the final fit-up & polish of the hilt.
  17. 1 point
    And Leslie is this: https://books.google.com/books/about/The_Iron_Manufacturer_s_Guide_to_the_Fur.html?id=g94LAwAAQBAJ Somewhere there was a free PDF of it, because I have a copy. And here it is! https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/006563140 Deadly dull, but you might be able to find the history of your little patch of the iron range...
  18. 1 point
    A gentle simmer in water with a little trisodium phosphate may help, maybe followed by a soak in 20% hydrogen peroxide, the kind hair salons use to bleach hair if you want it really white. The simmer is what we did to prepare specimens in zooarchaeology lab, and while it stinks to high heaven (so much so that the engineering lab next door called the EPA on us, after which we proudly wore their assessment of us on T-shirts: "U.T. Zooarch lab: EPA certified obnoxious but not toxic!") it does remove much of the smell from the final product. Just don't overdo it or the bone will get crumbly. Skim the grease every few minutes and don't boil hard. When the grease stops rising, stop simmering and let dry. If you use trisodium phosphate, just add a pinch. It breaks down grease and too much will stop it rising as well as make the bone crumbly. Oh, and if you use the peroxide, wear gloves and a facemask. That stuff will hurt you!
  19. 1 point
    Yesterday I started polishing this fantasy sword/really big knife. Originally it was part of a larger sword that broke on me, but I decided to salvage it. I must say, I was never a big fan of EDM stones until I tried one yesterday with some oil as a lubricant. Now I'm a big fan. Hopefully I'll have this done by the end of the week.
  20. 1 point
    Looks like the bad guy's knife. The use of concave lines and flutes just says "celtic vampire biker". Very cool!
  21. 1 point
    also received my burner from cgr customs. didnt get to hammer much. was more focused on grinder. i need to create a top plate of steel and weld the burner to that. IMG_2784.MOV
  22. 1 point
    what i did today finally after nearly 20 years of off and on knife tinkering, i have a 2x72 grinder. i've had a 1x30 and 2x36 the entire time and made due pretty well. this should increase fit and finish of future blades. it is mostly home made. bed frames make up the stand legs. wheels, d plate and platen are from origin knifemaker. high quality stuff. highly recommend his stuff. got a variety pack of belts on order. next week when my dad comes over we will wire in a switch for electrical.
  23. 1 point
    Nothing special here. Just confirmed that my finish choices work, not that they're better, just that they work for me. What I did was take three pieces of simple jewelry and dip them in a linseed oil finish. First one was heated and dipped in the 1-4 ratio and hung up to dry. Second was room temperature, treated the same. Third was dipped in unthinned linseed oil. After a few minutes I wiped all the excess oil off and let them finish drying. The first one dried quickly, the second not so fast, but still within an hour. The third took about two-three hours. The difference in use comes down to a matter of tidiness, the hot dipped one, had no drips forming on the ends and had very little excess oil to wipe off. The second had some drips forming, but not much. The third had bigger drips and was quite a bit more tacky. Which is better?, it just a matter of how much wiping you find convenient. Now this was with simple shapes, easily wiped down. When I did it with a more complex shape, not so easy. Especially as I went back to work and the piece sat for over an hour. I ended up having to reheat it and wiping it down a second time. The later is why I like to use clear paste wax on iron. I heat the iron up to the point where the wax is lightly smoking when applied and as it cools off, the finish is cured. I sometimes melt the wax, as this makes the finishing easier. There is one shortcoming on this, if the piece cools off too quickly, then the wax can turn white. Which is inconvenient, as then I have to reheat the iron. I find this happens most often on jewelry and on the ends of hooks and other bits with thin ends. There is some sort of “time under heat” for the finish to cure properly, but I don't know the parameters. For this reason, I'm thinking of switching to the thinned linseed oil for small simple pieces. Or I might say heck with it and start using a clear polyurethane finish.
  24. 1 point
    Last winter I fell down the Slipjpont rabbit hole, and in some recent "research" (started about a week ago when I decided a three bladed stockman will be one of the projects I start when I get back) I found these videos. Much of the process is pretty mechanized, but there is a surprising amount of hand grinding (and even hammering with the pivot). I wouldn't have thought to look at a factory tour for techniques for working by "hand" (as in, also with a grinder and drill presses but with less fixturing), but there are some things I want to try out now.
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