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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Are they male or female hammers, 'cause what ya dress them with is different and female hammers like nice bright colors...
  2. 2 points
    All of a sudden I heard Grantchester Meadows in my head and had a flashback.
  3. 2 points
  4. 1 point
    Hello Forum, Its been too long since I posted here ! - still pop in for a browse quite often though. Ive been fairly productive making wise (by my standards) for the last year or so, and seem to be finding my groove with chefs knives. I have a strong bias on the forging of the blade, and forging as much geometry into them as I can, I am finding my way with grinding and handles, but a bit of me still views them as necessary evils so I can do more forging! This is one of the last ones I have done, the cladding is about 80 layers of wrought iron, mild, and bandsaw blade, over a core of Takefu Blue paper steel. This one has got a pure Ni barrier layer as well. The handle is Bog Oak.
  5. 1 point
    This is what I would consider my first knife which I had considered to be long gone until I recently uncovered it in a box of junk, hidden in a back corner of my shop where it has rested for the last thirty years. The blade was forged from some high carbon, WWII armor plating. The handle is from some black walnut & hickory that I laminated and the fittings brass. You can see how the hickory has darkened over the years on the back half of the handle from exposure from the pouch type sheath. (I have no idea of what I used for the white handle spacer.) This one is quite crude and the blade geometry poor but it managed to field dress a couple of deer before I retired it to a forgotten hiding place in a back corner of my shop. I think that it's good to see something like this once in a while just to remind you of how you got started and hopefully have progressed over the years.
  6. 1 point
    The glassy red stuff is actually jasper (technically in the chert family, along with true flint and chalcedony, all are just semivitreous massive quartz). Native Americans loved it for making stuff, as red is a sacred color. It's somewhat rare, you should sell it to knappers! Roasting is easy. Just build a fire and throw the ore on it. I use a 55 gallon barrel with 2" holes drilled around the base, Lee Sauder and Skip Williams use a large metal pan. You just need to bring the ore to a low red and hold it for about an hour. Since it will be strongly magnetic after roasting, a big magnet will fish it all out of the ashes. It will also be easy to crush into pea-sized bits with a hammer or even pliers. Except magnetite. That stuff stays hard. It helps to quench it from a red heat to shatter it.
  7. 1 point
    Hey Charles, this is a pretty small blade with just 5 cm cutting edge. the overall lenght is 14cm. i carry it for some days now and it comes very handy. its small enough to pull it out in public to open a box without making people nervous cheers, Geko
  8. 1 point
    Check out the Build a Gas Forge attachment and the Ribbon Burner attachments on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com. Let me know if I can help you. Wayne
  9. 1 point
    Note that it makes it more rigid, rather than hard: When you press a thumb into blanket, it doesn't take much force to press it down by, say, 1/8" and it springs back. With rigidizer, it'll take noticeably more force and it won't spring back. The rigidizer seems to get fairly rigid as soon as it is fully dry, then get more rigid once it has been fired to high temperature. If your plan is to rigidize, then coat with a castable refractory, I'd not worry too much about it. The general consensus seems to be that the refractory bonds better to wetted blanket and the usual practice is to spritz the blanket with water before applying the refractory. If you wait until the refractory has crisped up at the surface, spritz it and apply the refractory, you should be fine. If you rigidize and apply the refractory while it's still wet, you should also be fine, but your drying time is likely to be much longer: moisture can escape from the exposed blanket face much more easily than it can escape through the layer of refractory. Drying time is VERY location-dependent. Some places, you'll need to slow initial drying down by covering the forge with plastic to give the (castable) refractory time to set properly. Other places, you'll struggle to get it dry at all. I'm in the wetter bit of England, just North of Manchester, and fall into the latter category. Dry is IMPORTANT: if the low-permeability layer is not dry, it'll flash off steam inside and blow it apart. It may not be impressive or even immediately apparent, but it'll leave cracks where the steam forced its way out. I'm pretty sure this has caused the early demise of many forges built by impatient would-be smiths. Using a fireclay-based refractory cement/mortar as a coating, the steam flash-off causes paper-thin bubbles to rise, harden and break up. If I really need to make a forge with refractory cement, it gets dried over 8+ hours in the oven (the actual time taken depending on how long I can be sure the wife will be out).
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    That one didn't make the cut. I was going to do a through-tang take-down and nixed the idea. I made another one with a curved tang. I'll make sure I show the guard setting. It's much the same as a straight tang though. Here are the 6 finalists after rough grind. Five in one photo and a cruddy photo of #6 that replaced the one Charles was asking about.
  12. 1 point
    A commission I took my sweet time to complete. I believe it's my best work to date. First one has a 7.375" W2 blade with hamon, 416 bolster and walnut handle. Second is 4" 1095, 416 and walnut. Critique is welcome! Hamons are darn hard to shoot properly...
  13. 1 point
    Thanks! Its amazing to me how I learn with each knife still, and it’s pretty easy to see the progression with these three. I think I got enough D&D experience points to jump a level with each knife. Definitely got + points in confidence and speed categories. Regarding the first sheath looking “different” - The inlay really didn’t have the integrity to show detail, I knew I wasn’t going to like it when I started, and I kept it simple because the material wouldn’t hold up to that level of detail. I agree it clearly looks “different” In that respect I did start on a new sheath yesterday - I’m pretty excited about it, I like it much better already. Here we go I cut lengthwise. Mark and use a rotary tool to create the cavity. Looks good and the blade fits! Glue. And I’m thinking this is gonna be way better. I need to pin the sides still then do final shaping and sanding. Now my problem is coming up with what to engrave on there and making it match the handle. Adam
  14. 1 point
    to sharpen a true scandi grind, you lay the entire bevel on the stone. very simple. i dont like secondary bevels on a scandi. seems to defeat the purpose.
  15. 1 point
    Still making progress. A couple more things to do then on to leather. I went completely off track with the third, didn’t follow my original plan, and went with a geometric design that is kinda more traditional. The first sheath still bugs me, probably gonna get changed. Since this is a WIP after all: I will keep you posted, things are moving pretty slow these days, only a few minutes per night to spare.
  16. 1 point
    AS40, 41, & 42: The Sierra Sidekick These were sitting on the bench for a while half finished, as the devastating loss of my beloved labrador Trixie shut me down for a while. But, as she always stopped by my bench to check my progress throughout my projects, I figured she'd want me to get off my tookus and finish them... I'd think these would make a good knife to carry when out for a deep woods hike. All three came in at 11" overall, and weigh in at 14 oz each. I used 1/4" 1075 barstock, made by stock removal. The handles are made from Wenge, Bubinga, and Padauk. As always, the blades were heat treated by my friend Lyndle Driggers of J&L Cutlery.
  17. 1 point
    Tonight's progress. Stretched my eyes a bit... Adam
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