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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/30/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Just cut them off and if you have a band saw cut to size or just a bit oversize for knife handle blocks. I usually orient the best looking areas so that the eyes are on the sides of the handle block. You cannot do that to all of the burl, but I try to get the densest and nicest pieces cut this way. Seal with a wax emulsion available from Woodcraft Supply and let dry stacked with separation for airflow in a cool shaded place with no breezes for at least 1 year per inch of thickness. This is for average woods like maple, however some woods like Madrone or Oak can have high levels of stress in them and will twist and split badly in drying even when coated. These woods I have found respond well to being boiled as soon as being cut up. About 1 hour per inch of thickness. This releaves the stresses and they seem to dry a bit faster afterwards. I have dried Red Mulberry with minimal splitting checking so yours may dry well.
  2. 2 points
    Well,i've pursued this same general design further(as in repeating it within the general parameters,changing things slightly but making sure that all info adds to one pile of knowledge). (stuck this file onto post by mistake:)...it Is the source of some of my WI for these axes though...) I made an elongated oval drift,as many axes of that period seemed to have a similar eye. It (their eye) was an inverted cone,big end opening toward the handle;haft was wedgte-less,and worked similar to Morse taper... Tried the drift on a couple of slit&drifted versions.Those were around too,tho' predominantly this style axes were composites. This is a variant in 3/4" thick A529 plate,though in a bit i'll find one in WI But back to composites for a moment.This is some of that wagon-tire,1?2" thick x 2" wide,pre-form welded and left long pending decision...(that original one in this post ran short on this side-mat'l,and i needed to remember how long It was...) And here it is welded...And a screw-up again,on the opposite end of spectrum this time-my mass escaped too far forward: Here it is ground(to a functional edge),but it's still too long... Now back to slit&driftment...A chunk of WI,7/8" thick by 5" long x 2" wide.I drilled it,as slitting that mild a day or tow earlier has beat me up sadly. Good Lawd but did it make it easier!!!Never tried it before and was Tres impressed...(dinn't get a good control of a friends drill-press in time to not have holes all gaggedy-ass,but it slit fine anyway... That old-style drift,2" wide by a touch over 1/2"... Bit ready for welding(and i think the poll is already steeled...) It needed some profiling after everything,but i'm getting a bit more happy with results...(you can see traces of my misdrillment:) And here's that slit&drifted mild...This one has actually been shaped by hammer alone...no reduction...:) New drift...Slightly changing the paradigm here,something i oughtn't do yet(...4 down,but 16+ more to go,as per J.A's dogma..)...But,my time at the forge is nearing an end,spring subsistence schedule pressing,and there's that one axe i'm just dying to try... So,one half of a pre-form with drift...It'll get a spacer,making it a 3-layer poll(+ steel plate),and a blade Materials,WI of a couple sorts(wagon tire is one),scavanged 10xx for a blade,and eventually nice new 1095 for butt-plate... Welding,as one can imagine,was a bear...Both welds needing to be done close together in time,and neither of them small...Big,ugly sandwich of junk,looked real hairy...:( But,by gum,weld it didst...sorry,double...:( Needing to trim off the top,naturally,my control of this bunch of steel wasn't terrific,and edge-setting something this tall and massive was pretty much out... And finally the initial grinding...so far,only one lousy part of weld,unimportant technically,and should grind out(but if there's more,so much better for Period Correctness:) Hey,sorry for such an endless post...:(
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    I second Alan's comment. Design the blade on paper first, then imagine how you need to hit the steel to get it to that shape, then get it hot and follow the mental plan. This is the fastest way I know to improve your hammer skills and to forge exactly what you envision. There is nothing wrong with doing a real rough forge (or not forging at all) and then grinding everything to shape), but again, you need to know what you want the blade to look like before you even touch the metal. Going with the flow is fun sometimes, but if that is all you ever do, it will slow the development of your skills.
  5. 1 point
    Another soda an more popcorn, this is one hella good show !!!
  6. 1 point
    Nice. I wasn't sure how that tip flower was going to look once the tip was forged out, but it's definitely a win. I'll be holding my breath while you cut out those inlays
  7. 1 point
    I am truly digging this build. That handle is going to be amazing!
  8. 1 point
    Starting with the hilt: Here's my original rough concept of what I want for the handle. It will be made of blackwood with mastodon ivory inlays and 416 fittings.
  9. 1 point
    Yes, he is. Shoot him a PM, I don't think he checks in very often.
  10. 1 point
    Gotta be meant for tobacco... No carb for the higher burning temp of hemp. Bowl is too deep too... Not that I'd know
  11. 1 point
    Troels,sorry,man,i missed your "...weighs 2.5kg Handled..." If so,then it makes it a very average,normal 3.5 +/-lbs felling axe,(not a less-common 5+lbs that i mistook it for in my tiredness). So yes,you're in business,something like this will serve you for many years,if not decades.
  12. 1 point
    Troels,yes,this axe was made by HB after an American pattern(Dayton),and possibly for US or Canadian market. It is a felling axe,and on a hefty side,that's why it's hafted so generously, as is fitting. It is a good(maybe one can even say Very good,HB has quite a lot of afficionados) axe,and i'd differ with Gerald and say that the axe has barely been used.It has not been abused,the poll is not mushroomed,and the grind on it appears to be competently and sensibly done. (blue paint was HB trademark).
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    I've been at this for something like 12 or 13 years and I think I finally have a clue. It's just that every time I turn around, I find something else I don't know how to do Great advice. Make something simple, and make it over and over again. That develops what I call "body knowledge". Musicians know this and so do rock climbers. Your body learns at a different pace than your brain. It takes repetitive motion to obtain body knowledge. It takes constant trial and error. Every knife I make gets drawn out on paper first. Then the paper gets photocopied and I cut the blade out and superglue it to a piece of 1/8" flat stock. Then I grind the profile out. Now I have a template I can keep at the anvil. Right now I have a box full of templates. If you are planning a road trip to Yellowstone, what is the first step? Open a map and plan the route. It's the same with creating anything. Make a road map on how to get from point A to point B.
  15. 1 point
    I've been carrying a knife since I was in grade school.
  16. 1 point
    Brian, Back in my days of making folders I found that Brownell's Comet flux was very handy when soldering stainless.
  17. 1 point
    Life has been getting in the way of my shop time lately, but I managed to get a little work done on this folder tonight. The next major Step in Culver's method is to solder the bolsters in place. I learned to solder by building my own slot car chassis when I was 12. That was almost 36 years ago, and I don't hear soldering advice much anymore that I pay any attention to, but Culver's approach is one that I hadn't tried. I gave it a go, and I have to admit it's better than what I have been doing. First I used a file guide to scribe matching lines on each liner in order to line up the proximal edges of the bolsters. Then the new approach. Culver recommends tinning the bolsters and the liners with a thin wash of solder. Then Carefully line the proximal edge with the scribed lines and hold in place with a spring clamp. Then heat the parts up gently until the solder re-flows. Then I just used the pivot pin holes in the liners to drill through the bolsters and then reamed for the pin diameter. After that I just pinned everything together and roughed the edges of the bolsters down to the liners. The overall edges will get profiled later on. A couple of days ago I rough ground the blade. Hopefully I'll get the blade and spring heat treated later this week. More to come!
  18. 1 point
    I would say Yes. Looks as if it's had some long use.
  19. 1 point
    Making the most out of my vacation time... Made some tongs out of square bar; to hold squarebar; to make more tongs for roundbar; to make a hammer; to forge more stuff. Pre-meditation at it's best. I need to make some bloomery tongs too. Worked on my old katana some too. Using the finest fullering tool known to man; the 3x21" black&decker belt sander.
  20. 1 point
    Just remember: you tell the steel what to do. It may fight you, but you have to be the boss.
  21. 1 point
    Here's the blade after being forged, rough ground and a quick etch. While forging I found that the flower next to the one which hadn't welded didn't fully weld either so my blade now has a four flower pattern. Obviously that part of the canoe didn't soak at welding temperature long enough. It appeared to be hot enough but sometimes it's just hard to tell. It still gave me 7 1/2" of blade though which is plenty. Actually I think that I like the pattern better with four inlays than I did with more. Anyway, it's much better to find these things out early rather than later when you can't work around them. ,
  22. 1 point
    The third is a cute little thing, of more or less tapering round section throughout, maybe 2lbs or so:
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