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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/01/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Sorry for the delay. After finding out I was out of leather dye, I had to order some and wait for it to arrive. Back to work tonight. This is half tan, so it must be stitched wet. Then you let it dry for 2 days with the knife inside and it shrinks down and hardens providing a tight fit and “click” when the knife is sheathed. That is - if I did it right. We shall see.
  2. 2 points
    So I had taken apart a huge ball bearing awhile back that had a bunch of 1.030” bearings... I've had these things on my workbench for a while now and wondered whether they’d make a knife or not, so I spark tested on, it sparked like majorly high carbon steel. I forged one flat, did a quick normalization, and then quenched it in oil. I tried bending it, and it broke like glass. Whatever the steel is, it’s pretty tough, and gets hard as glass. Anyway, today I set out to see what I could come up with. I didn’t really have a plan in my head, and just kinda went with it until I started to see a tiny skinner/neck knife-ish profile shaping up. The first pic (why does the editor screw up the order of the pics) is 80 grit off the grinder (I had to come in for a bit and rehydrate) The second pic is 90% as-forged. I had straightened the spine and touched up a bit on the edge on the grinder. Finally, the last pic is post heat treat at a worn out 120 grit belt finish. It has a 2-1/8” blade that’s ~1-5/16” wide at its widest. It’s .20” thick at the tiny little ricasso, and distally tapers to .125” where the bevels meet the upper edge. Let me know what you guys think... and I’d love to see what you guys could come up with using similar materials
  3. 2 points
    Hurry! Brian's turning blue! [Ivory smokes as Gary's jeweler's saw shreaks and twangs like the bow of a mad fiddler] Seriously cool stuff Gary! This is my favorite so far. Ancient, but timeless.
  4. 2 points
    Here's the blade after being forged, rough ground and a quick etch. While forging I found that the flower next to the one which hadn't welded didn't fully weld either so my blade now has a four flower pattern. Obviously that part of the canoe didn't soak at welding temperature long enough. It appeared to be hot enough but sometimes it's just hard to tell. It still gave me 7 1/2" of blade though which is plenty. Actually I think that I like the pattern better with four inlays than I did with more. Anyway, it's much better to find these things out early rather than later when you can't work around them. ,
  5. 1 point
    Don gave me this blade five or six years ago and said, "Make something beautiful with it". Hmm, ok, so it rumbled around in my mind until last fall. It was a slow process figuring out the transition, theme and all the details, but I think it came good in the end. I didn't find out until it was almost finished that it was Don's last patterned blade. I knew it had to be one of the last, but THE last. I'm glad I didn't know as I was working on it. Below is a little of what I've written. More to be read here: Kelso Journal And a slide show with more photos here: Fogg/Kelso In keeping with the persona of a hunting knife, I chose to represent features of the Vermont woodlands that would be familiar to a skilled, observant woodsman. These include tracks of the Red Fox, leaves of Red Maple, Beech, and Red and White Oaks, and a feather. The feather was modeled from the Ruffed Grouse, but altered in shape and color to fit the surroundings. I chose a feather as a sign of passage, which in the case of birds, could be molting, conflict, flight or death. Feathers have such deep and subtle beauty. My wife Jean and I have a collection and I always wonder, when finding a single feather, what the story was. The tracks, leaves and feather are all signs, marking activity and transition, the meaning of which is read by the skilled woodsman. This project has been very satisfying for a number of reasons. I was touched and honored when Don gave me the blade to finish. I did not realize until the piece was nearly finished that it was his last patterned blade, which greatly enhances the meaning for me. Don is a legend in the smithing world, and rightly so. Apart from his technical innovations, he has an artistic eye, both for pattern and form, which is rarely, if ever matched. In addition, his Bladesmith’s Forum stands as an unparalleled online resource for beginning and accomplished knifemakers.
  6. 1 point
    You're more than welcome,Jonathan,thank You,for asking a pertinent,intelligent question. Historic reproduction(replication?) is Super challenging,for me somehow especially...:( But it's extremely educational,in any number of ways,but trying,(all too rarely successfully..:( ), did help me become a better smith. This project in particular is extremely insightful.These axes are not that far in the past,a number of examples are around and in actual use. (i've been drawing a lot of inspiration and technical detail both from photos pilfered from a well-known auction site,that i hesitate to post due to possible conflict with forum rules,but there's quite a few about). The ultimate challenge for a smith is to build a decent Tool.My personal belief is that it's the Function that creates the visual and/or tactile Appeal of an object.The design of something that is so down-to-earth and practical as an axe is like a pebble on an ocean beach;between the uncounted generations of smiths,coupled with an equal number of tool-users,by the interplay among all of them,that design is rolled around and polished infinitely. The object itself contains this empirically,it can be actually tested.As i finish these experimental versions i'll be sending them off to some of the most experienced axemen i know,to garner as much more information as possible. Unfortunately,i'm neither set-up or very skilled at reduction part of the deal(and this pattern was heavily ground originally;making re-engineering of it even harder).So it'll take me a long time....(i left a Lot of extra beef...). But,it's a very cool and important in a lot of ways inquiry.These axes contributed a Bunch to the development of the iconic "American" axe,that changed the very paradigm of that ancient tool so surprisingly radically in the late 19th century...
  7. 1 point
    Evening gents The blade for this vest Bowie is 6" long and 3/16" on the spine, it has a core of 80Cr V2 which has been laminated with Hitachi Shiro 2 and outer layers of 431 stainless. I've not used these steels in this combination before and I was really pleased how the carbon in the stainless has migrated into the Shiro 2 layers. The steel single branch hand guard has been cold blued and the handle is a lovely piece of stabilised Hawaiian Koa held with one stainless pin, the overall length of the knife is 11 1/8". The double welted sheath has been dyed walnut, with a black patterned front panel with small domed pins surrounding an inlayed python skin panel. I hope you like her, thank you for taking the time to look and all questions and critique very welcome. Happy Easter Steve
  8. 1 point
    If it helps any, Jason Knight told me to thermal-cycle them a few times before attempting to forge them.
  9. 1 point
    I've tried it with a bearing I got from a QC shop that rejected some that were to be used as tank turret ball bearings. Even with a striker it was a nightmare. Did this a while ago, so likely not in good control of heat, but still...
  10. 1 point
    Ball bearings are usually 52100, which is good stuff. I don't have any 1", but I have a couple of 3.5" I plan to use as mushroom stakes.
  11. 1 point
    The editor arranges the pics in the order they are uploaded, unless you use the "add to post" button hat looks like a + sign in the photo tile. Using the + button adds the pic wherever your cursor is. I get .572 cu. in. So if you had the 2x.25 flat bar, a 1-1/8" strip is roughly equivalent. I do like the idea of a 1" sphere though. I'll see if I have any out in the shop. I know the wife has a bunch of steel balls for her artwork. Sometimes she buys the chrome ones, other times the HC steel. She might have the 1" ones lying in a bag, inside a box, stuffed into a cabinet.
  12. 1 point
    The volume of a 1 inch sphere is .524". Is this a volume challenge, or a control of mass challenge? A 1 X 2 X .25 piece of stock is just a bit less mass, but working from a sphere is a challenge all by it's self. Can I use power tools, or is this a hand hammer only thing. So many questions! Geoff
  13. 1 point
    Very nice work on that blade. A lot of skill shown in forge welding stainless steel with carbon steel. It also makes me run over in my mind what you had to do to assemble that sheath which is also first rate. It's almost good enough looking to make me like brut de forge finishes. Doug
  14. 1 point
    My plan is to make some large square dies for my power hammer and hopefully that helps keep it square. If I tried to do it with a hand hammer it wouldn't work out.
  15. 1 point
    I bought a job lot of tools from a surgical instrument making firm, including an anvil and some cool hammers and weird bottom stamps/dies. Interesting stuff. One of the things I like about the hammers is the rectangular eye. For some reason some tools have rectangular eyes- carpenters' hammers, adzes, some hoes, and I'm sure a few other things, including sheffield forgers' hammers. Anyway, I think it's a great idea, if only because making a rectangular drift is so very very much easier than an oval one. Here are some photos. Sorry to use Instagram links, it's the most convenient way for me to share photos;
  16. 1 point
    Engraved the re-sheath. I like it much better. and just for kicks, a glamour shot of the triplets (not identical) I guess I better get out the leather box.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks guys! got a little more work over the last couple nights, but I figured I’d kinda bundle the pics so I wasn’t spamming the forum. Experiment time. I need to reinforce the distal sheath, typically this was done with rivets/pins. I saw it done a different way on Instagram and I liked it so I’m going to try it. first I drilled the holes. then I used a tiny little tap to tap the holes. this left pretty little threads in there, see: dipped some ss screws in some epoxy and threaded them through let them cure and grind them off Seems really solid - back to more engraving. on a side note - I think the ice on the lake might break up in the next day or two and we are starting to see small patches of bare ground. Have a good evening!
  18. 1 point
    Thanks! Its amazing to me how I learn with each knife still, and it’s pretty easy to see the progression with these three. I think I got enough D&D experience points to jump a level with each knife. Definitely got + points in confidence and speed categories. Regarding the first sheath looking “different” - The inlay really didn’t have the integrity to show detail, I knew I wasn’t going to like it when I started, and I kept it simple because the material wouldn’t hold up to that level of detail. I agree it clearly looks “different” In that respect I did start on a new sheath yesterday - I’m pretty excited about it, I like it much better already. Here we go I cut lengthwise. Mark and use a rotary tool to create the cavity. Looks good and the blade fits! Glue. And I’m thinking this is gonna be way better. I need to pin the sides still then do final shaping and sanding. Now my problem is coming up with what to engrave on there and making it match the handle. Adam
  19. 1 point
    Up for sale is my newest bowie knife. I make maybe one bowie a year or so- I am not always drawn to the form, but I enjoy it when it happens. I tried to put some kinda radical lines into this one- similar in a way to some Lurquin or even Axelson lines but a little less overtly masculine. Make no mistake, it’s a dude, but more of a wolf than a bear… if that makes sense. There’s a little bit of kopesh/kopis in it as well. So, the blade is forged of W2 with a hamon. An integral bolster becomes a hidden tang that passes through the coined copper spacers and stainless file-bordered guard, and into a one-piece tapered frame handle made to simulate a continuation of the integral bolster. Think “faux tapered-tang integral.” The scales have a tapered mortise milled into the inside, to allow a tang of full thickness through its length. All three pins pass through the tang- and the scales are held on as well by hidden pins inside the frame. The handle wood is “Insanity” dyed burl, a gift to me from Mr. Bill Akers. The handle frame is forged of mild steel. A long sweeping main grind (I thought of it as a “shinogi” when grinding this) flows along the recurve section of the forte, blending into the flat and paralleling a harpoon clip to the point. For once, a hamon pretty nearly did exactly what I wanted in terms of shape and layout, giving me some bonus activity as well… the long saw-tooth gunome along the clip made me quite happy upon finishing it out. The blade is hand sanded to 1000, then hybrid polished. Specs are as follows: Overall length: 17” Blade, tip to bolster: 12” Blade width at heel: 1-1/2” Spine thickness at bolster: .210” Total weight: 16-1/4 oz. I am asking $1200 for this knife, shipped insured within the US. Please inquire for international rates. This knife does not include a sheath. Enough yakking, here’s 24 pics and a vid with meandering narrative! Enjoy! Thanks for looking. I make knives to the best of my ability and knowledge. I research to find the best materials and methods to use, in order to provide the very best product, in terms of value, durability, performance, and aesthetics. Should you find a knife you have bought from me to be lacking in any of these respects, you may ship it back to me at my expense for a full money-back return. Should a knife purchased from me fail in materials or workmanship, please ship it back to me at my own expense for your money back in full, or repairs at no cost. It’s your choice. I will sharpen any of my knives at no cost; however I do ask that you pay for shipping costs for this service. I am always pleased to hear from any of my customers, past, repeat, potential, or otherwise. Please go to my web site, see "Contact Me" and give me a call. If you have any questions regarding these policies, I'd like to hear them. Salem Straub
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