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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Not exactly blades, but they have edges and points so I thought they might still be of interest. I needed to make a new set of arrows for myself (I am making 24 but these are the first 8) that I didn't mind shooting and that I knew would hold up. I had made arrows before, but never forged my own points and never forged a socket before so this has been valuable practice. The heads are hardened and burned in. The shafts are barrel tapered port orford cedar spined for a 50lb bow, stained and sealed. The nocks were reinforced with ebony wedges. Turkey feather fletching with artificial sinew spiral wrap. Overall I am pretty happy with the first batch, though I definitely learned that I need to make the sockets a bit wider than it seems I should while forging.
  2. 3 points
    Finally finished my kitchen things.
  3. 1 point
    I wanted to share some photos from a recent hearth steel experiment we ran. The setup replicated how Emiliano has been producing hearth steel. Our protocol may have been slightly different: Input: Mild Steel (1in x 1/2in x 5/16in) and charcoal (1in pieces) 7 charges (150g mild steel + 400g charcoal). 1 charge every 4 minutes. One additional charge of 400g charcoal. Output: ~950g of high carbon stuff Here are some pictures of the setup: 7 Firebricks standing up; 1in tyuere at roughly 3/4 the height of a firebrick angled slightly downward. In action video Extracting the puck. After quick consolidation on the power hammer. Spark test. Looking good. Knife after heat treatment. Unfortunately, I made the tang transition below where I forge welded some mild steel. Oops.
  4. 1 point
    Recently I cut some beams with a chainsaw for a small cabin I am building but I didn't like the saw marks on the beams. So to make the beams look hand-hewn, I figured I would make a small adze to get rid of the saw marks. This is my first adze and, for me, it was a lot more difficult than making a small hatchet. I drifted and shaped the body out of 1" x 3/4" mild and then added a 1075 steel bit to the underside. Not having a notch to insert the bit like in axe, I just placed it on the underside of the mild body. I didn't tack weld it down since I wanted to get the body close to temp and then add the bit in order to reduce the risk of overheating the high carbon bit. Well, as you can see from the crappy phone pics, managing to keep the shape symmetrical and having a smooth transition from mild to HC eluded me. While it is ugly and has flaws, it works well enough to hew wood. I will definitively have to make another one (maybe a bowl adze this time?) and apply the lessons I learned on this one. If anyone else has made one and has advice, please share.
  5. 1 point
    Steve is in American Samoa, which makes a bit of a difference.
  6. 1 point
    I think we're on the same sheet of music. I just lay the HC on top and hold it steady. This is one of the few times I flux inside the fire, too hard to get it out and back in without shifting the HC.
  7. 1 point
    Here it is! I was finally able to get pictures.
  8. 1 point
    Realized none of the images really showed the nock reinforcement which was a fun first for me as well
  9. 1 point
    Thanks guys! @Conner Michaux - it doesn't seem like its ever going to be done, but I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. Just a few more finishing touches. Quick Sheath WIP. The leather is "half tan" both surfaces are finished (basically veg tanned from what I've experienced) but the middle layer is left raw, and thus it works a lot like raw hide. It is hard when you get it, I try to soak it at least overnight and then it becomes workable. I cut it dry, and only soak what I need. Then I skive the edges to get more of a taper on the ends of the sheath. I then bevel the inside edges and then smooth them over with a burnisher. This gives it much more of a finished look after it's on the knife. Dye And then I put them in a bag overnight so the dye can set and I can work on them without developing brown fingers and staining the knife. Others dye them after they are attached to the sheath, but I found I made to much of a mess this way. So all three of the sheaths are dyed with Feibing's Chocolate Pro Dye, but I did different things (non-uniform drying, acetone) as the dye was setting to make the different colors and textures. I was really just experimenting. First I wrap the knife in foil and plastic wrap to protect it and also so that the sheath doesn't dry too tight. Then I wrap the leather around the knife and sheath and hold it in place with clamps. Most guys just use an awl and stitch it at this point, but I can't seem to make a staright stitch that way, so I mark it and then drill the holes on my drill press. Then I use an awl and saddle stitch. The end of the stitching curls around the lanyard hole. Then I trim and burnish the edge. I've got to admit, this is the part I'm least satisfied with. I wish my stitching was cleaner... Especially around the corners. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Again, this is how I do it, there are many variations.
  10. 1 point
    Don't know how I missed this one - all are great but I really like the one with the copper inlay! Well done!
  11. 1 point
    Gorgeous Brian! I've really enjoyed watching this one come together.
  12. 1 point
    If the grit is rust, it's a smelt. If not, it's a grappage/orishigane melt. Put the tuyere at around 10 inches to one foot off the floor.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Nice, I have a few British and german anvils with gates. I found that hot forging worked well for making tooling fit the slot and for making wedges that fit perfectly. basically heat the bottom of the tooling and sledge it down into the slot . the heat the wedge and upset it to fit the gap. You will have fun with that anvil.
  15. 1 point
    Success! Sold all the knives. My first knife sale. Made about 50 percent profit on them (does this mean I am a blade smith now?). Anywho, thanks for the help with patinas!
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I’ve been watching this thread ever since it started, these knives are awesome! I keep thinking there done, but more and more keeps happening to them, so they keep getting better and better. Great work!
  18. 1 point
    Reminds me of the case knives trapper. Looking good! This reminds me, I still need to decide if I’m going to do a fixed or a folder for KITH.
  19. 1 point
    My goodness, you are doing a jam up job with this Brian, my hats off to you!! I did a slip joint a few years ago, also saved S. Culver’s instructions via web but haven’t gone back to try another. Great job! Gary LT
  20. 1 point
    Yes sir, at that weight it should really move the steel for you, as I said. It should be great for using hardy tools too. Doug
  21. 1 point
    Then I spent some time filing and sanding the bolsters and scales to shape. I've got a little more shaping to do, but I've sanded through the side of my thumb, and got tired of bleeding all over the knife. This is where I'll stop for the night.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    The size of the knife you are forging can make a big difference to how you feel about it, and approach the work. Lots of practical knives are 3" blades, yet many people assume if you are forging a knife it needs to be massive. Try starting a forging session with a 1/2" dia bar (or even easier a bit of 1/4" thick x 3/4" flat bar), and the idea to make 3 or 4 stick tang blades. If 1/2 get scrapped in the learning you will still have something to show for it at the end of the day you can feel proud of, and finish into a knife. Not just a pile of frustration. Repeat this exercise a few times and suddenly you will finish the forging session with 4 nicely forged small blades, and you can move on from there. It just seems odd to me that a lot of people kick off trying to forge a big knife, that most experienced bladesmiths would pull a face at without a power hammer
  24. 1 point
    Just saw these. What a great set of axes! There seems to be a resurgence of axe-making going on around here. Hmmm.....time to join the fray I guess.
  25. 1 point
    I can't work Paint drawings worth a darn, but here is my poor attempt at tweaking the design.
  26. 1 point
    I'm going to quote myself from another post, just because I'm pleased with the way I said this: I have to agree with everything Joel said, but I'd charge more. Do break a test piece and look at your grain. I just taught a "knifemaking (mostly) unplugged" class for my local guild in which I taught the decalescence method and the benefits of normalizing/thermal cycling. First I put my muffle pipe in the forge and let it warm up to what looked like a nice orange color, then asked them what temperature they thought they were seeing based on the common charts. Everyone agreed it looked like the classic orange just above cherry red, or about 1500 degrees. I put a thermocouple in it and it came out 1795 degrees F. Moral: Don't trust the color. I also had some W1 forged to 1/4" square that I let soak at that heat for three minutes, quenched, and broke. The grain was like table sugar. I then did three thermal cycles (take it to critical judging by decalescence, let air cool to black, repeat) and quenched on the last heat and snapped another half-inch off the end. The grain was like glass. This showed them just how important temperature control is. and how easy it is to overshoot your target heat. The great thing about using decalescence is that it works for ALL the steels you can heat treat effectively in a typical home shop without a kiln. Don't know the critical temperature for your steel? Don't worry about it, decalescence will show you. 1095 transforms at around 1450 degrees F. 5160 does it at 1525 F. 52100 does it at 1550 F. But what about the magnet test? Magnets are great, but not for heat treating. All magnetic steels go non-magnetic at 1425 degrees. That gets you close with most of the 10XX series steels, but not quite where you need to be. with 5160, 52100, O1, etc, nonmagnetic is a subcritical anneal. So what is decalescence? It is when the glowing steel stops emitting photons because the crystalline phase is changing from body-centered cubic to face-centered cubic, aka critical temperature. In low light conditions it appears as a sort of swirling shadow inside the surface of the steel. It starts at the thinner parts and creeps into the thicker as the heat evens out in the steel. As soon as all the shadows are gone, the blade has fully transformed and is ready to quench or let air cool. If you choose to air cool, you will see the opposite effect, recalescence. This appears as a bright line that moves from the edge back into the spine, caused by the emission of photons when the crystalline phase shifts back. These are quantum phenomena that can't be faked. The class got a kick out of it once they saw it for themselves, and I told them they were now practicing quantum physics without a license. It sounds complicated, but it's really not. You don't really need to know exactly what's happening at the subatomic level (although that's kinda cool if you're a big a geek as I am), all you need to know is to watch for the shadows on a rising heat and pull the blade when the shadows are gone. Finally, the oil needs to be a little hotter. 130 degrees is the usual statement for canola or veterinary mineral oil. That is the point at which those oils are the most effective at heat transfer, and for 1095 you really need the fastest heat transfer you can get short of cracking the blade, because with that alloy you have just under one second to drop the temperature from critical to 900 degrees or it's not gonna harden. With 5160 or 80CrV2 you have around six seconds to do the same thing. With O-1 you have around 30 seconds, which is why thin blades of O-1 will air harden.
  27. 1 point
    I have seen that trick referred to more than once and will certainly do it for this build. Might even get back a little machinist mentality. My own went out the window during my first smithing class. We were making tongs and I was trying to get a precision fit by filing the bosses flat. The instructor (Charlie Orlando, RIP) took a look, said "let me show you something," and gave it one hard whack with a hammer, problem solved. I know that doesn't work with folders, of course.
  28. 1 point
    Driving down a 2 track road that borders my buddys property on one side and state land on the other i came accross this stump that happened to be the right hight for my cutlers anvil. Im still not sure about using this anvil. I have been giving it light coats of wd40 and its getting a nice dark patina. The wife wasnt very happy but it ended up in her suburban. I tried to get all the ants off....
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    The face is remarkably flat. And it stands proudly.
  31. 1 point
    There is a name either stamped in it ir chiseled into it. Here is a couple closer pictures.
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